Policy & Terms of use

Back to Library
Show Menu
Hide Menu

|

Boatinfo requires FlashPlayer 9 or newer to display this document!

Get Adobe Flash player



SERVICE MANUAL Number 1 Stern Drive Units and Marine Engines 90-68648 286 ©Brunswick Corp. 1986 Printed in U.S.A. Notice to Users of This Manual This service manual has been written and published by the service department of Mercury Marine to aid our dealers' mechanics and company service personnel when servicing the products described herein. It is assumed that these personnel are familiar with the servicing procedures of these products, or like or similar products manufactured and marketed by Mercury Marine. That they have been trained in the recommended servicing procedures of these products which includes the use of mechanics common hand tools and the special Mercury Marine or recommended tools from other suppliers. We could not possibly know of and advise the service trade of all conceivable procedures by which a service might be performed and of the possible hazards and/or results of each method. We have not undertaken any such wide evaluation. Therefore, anyone who uses a service procedure and/or tool, which is not recommended by the manufacturer, first must completely satisfy himself that neither his nor the product's safety will be endangered by the service procedure selected. All information, illustrations and specifications contained in this manual are based on the latest product information available at time of publication. It should be kept in mind, while working on the product, that the electrical system and ignition system is capable of violent and damaging short circuits or severe electrical shocks. When performing any work where electrical terminals could possibly be grounded or touched by the mechanic, the battery cables should be disconnected at the battery. Any time the intake or exhaust openings are exposed during service they should be covered to protect against accidental entrance of foreign material which could enter the cylinders and cause extensive internal damage when the engine is started. It is important to note that, during any maintenance procedure, replacement fasteners must have the same measurements and strength as those removed, whether metric or customary. (Numbers on the heads of the metric bolts and on surfaces of metric nuts indicate theirstrength. Customary bolts use radial lines for this purpose, while most customary nuts do not have strength markings. Mismatched or incorrect fasteners can result in damage or malfuction, or possibly personal injury. Therefore, fasteners removed should be saved for re-use in the same locations whenever possible. Where the fasteners are not satisfactory for re-use, care should be taken to select a replacement that matches the original. Replacement Parts ^WARNING Electrical, ignition and fuel system components on MerCruiser Engines and Stern Drives are designed and manufactured to comply with U.S. Coast Guard Rules and Regulations to minimize risks of fire or explosion. Use of replacement electrical, ignition or fuel system components, which do not comply to these rules and regulations, could result in a fire or explosion hazard and should be avoided. When servicing the electrical, ignition and fuel systems, it is extremely important that all components are properly installed and tightened. If not, any electrical or ignition component opening would permit sparks to ignite fuel vapors from fuel system leaks, if they existed. Engine Mechanical Components Many of the engine mechanical components are designed for marine applications. Unlike automotive engines, marine engines are subjected to extended periods of heavy load and wide-open-throttle operation, therefore, require heavy-duty components. Special marine engine parts have design and manufacturing specifications which are required to provide long life and dependable performance. Marine engine parts also must be able to resist the corrosive action of salt or brackish water that will rust or corrode standard automotive parts within a short period of time. Failure to use recommended Quicksilver service replacement parts can result in poorengine performance and/or durabiltiy, rapid corrosion of parts s jbjected to salt water and possibly complete failure of the engine. Use of parts other than recommended service replacement parts will void the warranty on those parts which are damaged as a result of the use of other than recommended parts. MODELS COVERED IN THIS MANUAL MERCRUISER STERN DRIVE ENGINES (MCM) Model Serial Number MCM 60 All MCM 80 All MCM 90 All MCM 110 All MCM 120 3770649 and below MCM 140 (6 Cyl.) All MCM 140 (4 Cyl.) 3771644 and below MCM 150 All MCM 160 All MCM 165 3774864 and below MCM 888 3777489 and below MCM 190 (V-8) All MCM 200 (6 Cyl.) All MCM 215 All MCM 225 (G.M.) All MCM 225TR (Ford) 3779774 and below MCM 250 (327 CID) 4767999 and below MCM 255TR (Ford) 3838787 and below MCM 270 All MCM 310 All MCM 325 All MCM 390 All TRANSOM ASSEMBLY AND STERN DRIVE UNITS Model Serial Number MCO All MCI All MC I A/B/C All MCI A/B/C E-2 All MC 80 All MC 90 All MC 120 3780849 and below MC 140 3780849 and below MC 160 All MC 165 3780849 and below MC 888 3784374 and below MCM 215 H All MCM 215 E All MC TR 3787239 and below MC II All MC III All MERCRUISER INBOARD ENGINES (MIE) Model Serial Number MIE 30 All MIE 55 All MIE 215 All MIE 225 (G.M.) All MIE 225 (Ford) 3750507 and below MIE 250 (327 CID) 4767999 and below MIE 255 (Ford) 3839487 and below MIE 270 All MIE 325 All MIE 390 All MODELS COVERED IN THIS MANUAL MERCRUISER STERN DRIVE ENGINES (MCM) Model Serial Number MCM 60 All MCM 80 All MCM 90 All MCM 110 All MCM 120 3770649 and below MCM 140 (6 Cyl.) All MCM 140 (4 Cyl.) 3771644 and below MCM 150 All MCM 160 All MCM 165 3774864 and below MCM 888 3777489 and below MCM 190 (V-8) All MCM 200 (6 Cyl.) All MCM 215 All MCM 225 (G.M.) All MCM 225TR (Ford) 3779774 and below MCM 250 (327 CID) 4767999 and below MCM 255TR (Ford) 3838787 and below MCM 270 All MCM 310 All MCM 325 All MCM 390 All TRANSOM ASSEMBLY AND STERN DRIVE UNITS Model Serial Number MCO All MCI All MCIA/B/ C All MCXA/B/C E-2 All MC 80 All MC 90 All MC 120 3780849 and below MC 140 3780849 and below MC 160 All MC 165 3780849 and below MC 888 3784374 and below MCM 215 H All MCM 215 E All MC TR 3787239 and below MC IIAll MC III All MERCRUISER INBOARD ENGINES (MIE) Model Serial Number MIE 30 All MIE 55 All MIE 215 All MIE 225 (G.M.) All MIE 225 (Ford) 3750507 and below MIE 250 (327 CID) 4767999 and below MIE 255 (Ford) 3839487 and below MIE 270 All MIE 325 All MIE 390 All MERCRUISER SERVICE MANUAL OUTLINE SECTION NO. 1 General Information 2 Removal-Installation-Alignment 3 Electrical System 4 Fuel Systems 5 Engine 6 Drive Systems 7 Accessories 8 Specifications 9 Tools SECTION HEADING Part A - General Information Part B - Tuneup Part C - Lubrication Part A - MerCruiser 60-80-90 Part B - MerCruiserl Part C - MerCruiser II Early Part D - MerCruiser II Transom Part E - MerCruiser III Part F- MerCruiser 215H Part G - MerCruiser 215E Part J - MerCruiser II-TR Drive Unit Part A - Starting System Part B - Ignition System Part C - Alternator System Part D - Instrumentations Part E - Wiring Diagrams - Fuel Pumps - Carburetors - Engine Mechanical, In-Line GM - Engine Mechanical, In-Line 60-80-90 - Engine Mechanical, V-8 GM - Engine Mechanical, V-8 Ford - MerCruiser 60-80-90 and MerCruiserl MerCruiser II - MerCruiser 215 Part D - MerCruiser III Part APart BPart A Part BPart CPart D Part APart B Part C Part EPart FPart G Part APart BPart CPart D - Direct Drive Transmission - MerCruiser II-TR Drive Unit - MerCruiser II-TR Transmission - Power Tilt & Trim - Steering System - Remote Controls - Cooling Part E - General Accessories MERCRUISER SECTION 1 GENERAL INFORMATION TABLE of CONTENTS Page Page Carburetor Adjustment 1 B-8 Page Numbering How to Use This Manual 1 A-1 Throttle Cable Adjustments 1 B-11 Directional References 1A-1 1A-2 Fuel Pump Pressure Test 1 B-11 Engine Rotation Terminology 1A-2 Battery and Battery Cables 1 B-11 Engine Serial Number Valve Adjustment 1B-12 Stern Drive Serial Numbers 1A-3 Mechanical Lifters 1B-12 Flushing Cooling System 1A-5 Manifold 1B-12 Winter Storage - Marine Engines 1 A-6 Crankcase Ventilation 1B-12 1A-7 Returning Engine to Service 1A-12 Winter Storage - Stern Drive Unites 1A-13 Tilt Pin AdjustmentMerCruiser Lubricant and Maintenance Chart 1C-1 Power Tilt Operation 1A-15 1A-16 Stern Drive Lubricant Capacitor 1C-2 Power Trim Operation 1A-17 Quicksilver Engine Cleaner 1C-3 Pre-lgnition and DetonationLubricant Guns 1C-4 Trim Tab 1A-19 Other Marine Lubr cants 1C-4 MerCruiser Fuel System 1A-20 Engine Lubrication 1C-5 1A-21 Oil Filter 1C-7 Components Electrical Installation 1A-21 1C-7 DescriptionStern Drive Lubrication 1C-8 Compression Test . 1B-1 . 1 B-1 Checking Lubricant Level 1C-9 Sparkplugs............................................................................................................1 B-1 Draining and Filling Drive Unit 1C-12 Ignition System ....................................................................................................1 B-3 Points of Lubrication 1C-14 SECTION 1-GENERAL INFORMATION PART A - GENERAL INFORMATION INDEX Page How to Use This Manual 1A-1 Page Numbering 1A-1 Directional References 1A-2 Engine Rotation Terminology 1A-2 Engine Serial Number 1A-3 MerCruiser 60 1A-3 MerCruiser 80 and 90 1A-3 MerCruiser 120-140-160-165-225 1A-3 MerCruiser 888-215-225H-TR and 255IE-TR 1A-3 MerCruiser 325 1A-4Inboard Engines 1A-4 Stern Drive Serial Numbers 1A-5 MerCruiser l and "O " 1A-5 MerCruiser 888 1A-5 MerCruiser II 1A-5 MerCruiser III-215-225 II-TR and 255 II-TR 1A-5 Flushing Cooling System 1A-6 MerCruiser 60-8C-90 and 4 and 6-Cylinder Engines (Except 200) and 888 1A-6 MerCruiser 200 and 8-Cylinder Engines (Except 888) 1A-6 Winter Storage - Marine Engines 1A-7 MerCruiser 60-80-90 1A-7 MerCruiser 110 thru 165 1A-8 8-Cylinder Engines 1A-10 Returning Engine to Service 1A-12 Winter Storage - Stern Drive Units 1A-13 Me rCru iser I- thru -888 1A-13 MerCruiser II-III-225II-TR and 255II-TR 1A-13 Tilt Pin Adjustment 1A-15 MerCruiser O-l and II 1A-15 Power Tilt Operation 1A-16 Boat at Rest 1A-16 Boat Underway 1A-16 Power Trim Operation 1A-17 Yellow-White-Green Buttons Panel 1A-17 Red-Red/Green-White Buttons Panel, Black Buttons Panel and Trim Switches Mounted in Remote Control 1A-17 Indicator Readjustment 1A-18 Pre-lgnition and Detonation 1A-19 Pre-lgnition 1A-19 Detonation 1A-19 Trim Tab 1A-20 Removal and Replacement 1A-20 Adjustment 1A-20 MerCruiser Fuel System 1A-21 Fuel Tank-Cautiors 1A-21 Fuel Lines-Length and Sizes 1A-21 Electrical Installation 1A-21 GENERAL INFORMATION HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL This comprehensive overhaul and repair manual is designed for mechanics to use as a reference guide. The manual is divided into SECTIONS which represent major components and systems. Following are the SECTIONS which compose this manual: Section 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Section Heading General Information Removal, Installation and Alignment Electrical Systems Fuel Systems Engine Drive Systems Accessories Specifications Tools Flat Rate Manual/Service Bulletins (Dealers Only) SECTIONS are separated by dividers (heavier color paper) which enable the user to quickly locate any desired SECTION. A table of contents, which lists major subjects and page numbers, is printed on the reverse side of each SECTION divider. The SECTIONS are further divided into PARTS. Each PART has a colored title page which is the same color as the SECTION divider. An index for the particular PART is printed on the title page. EXAMPLE: To find "Integral Charging System", turn to "Electrical Systems" divider. The table of contents on the back side of the divider indicates that "Integral Charging System" is located in PART C, ".Alternator System", Page 3C-I3. PAGE NUMBERING Two number groups appear at the bottom of each page. The example, below, is self explanatory. Example: 173R1 GENERAL ' N FORMATION - 1A-1 DIRECTIONAL REFERENCES Front of boat is bow; rear is stern. Starboard side is right side; STARBOARD port side is left side. In this maintenance manual, all AFT or STERN (RIGHT) directional references are given as they appear when viewing (REAR) boat from stern, looking toward bow. (Figure 1) Figure 1. Directional Reference ENGINE ROTATION TERMINOLOGY Engine rotation is determined by observing crankshaft rotation Inboard engines can be either left or right hand rotation. from the rear of engine looking forward. Do not rely on propeller rotation, as propeller rotation is not, All MerCruiser stern drive engines are left hand rotation. necessarily, the same as engine rotation. FORE or BOW (FRONT) 1 A-2 - GENERAL INFORMATION 173R1 ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER IMPORTANT: Serial numbers are the manufacturer's key to numerous engineering details applicable to the engine. When ordering parts, accessories and tools, or when corresponding with the manufacturer or dealer in regard to service matters, always specify engine serial number. MERCRUISER 60 Serial number is located on left side of engine block above oil filter. (Figure 2) MERCRUISER 80 and 90 Serial number is located on rear left side of engine block under intake manifold. (Figure 3) MERCRUISER 120-140-160-165-225 Serial number is located on rear right side of engine block above starter motor. (Figure 4) Figure 4. MerCruiser 120-140-160-165-200-225 Serial No. Location MERCRUISER 888-215-225H-TR and 255H-TR Serial number is located on rear top of cylinder block between intake manifold and flywheel housing. (Figure 5) Figure 2. MerCruiser 60 Serial No. Location Figure 3. MerCruiser 80 and 90 Serial No. Location Figure 5. MerCruiser 888-215-225H-TR and 255II-TR Serial No. Location 173R1 GENERAL ' N FORMATION - 1A-3 MERCRUISER 325 INBOARD ENGINES Serial number is located at rear of engine on flywheel housing. Serial number for all inboard engines is located at rear of (Figure 6) engine on flywheel housing. (Figure 7) 03623 Figure 6. MerCruiser 325 Serial No. Location Figure 7. Inboard Engine Serial No. Location 1A-4 - GENERAL INFORMATION 173R1 STERN DRIVE SERIAL NUMBERS IMPORTANT: Serial numbers are the manufacturer's key to numerous engineering details applicable to the unit. When ordering parts, accessories and tools, or when corresponding with the manufacturer or dealer in regard to service matters, always specify stern drive serial number. NOTE: A pressure-sensitive decal is enclosed with the stern drive. Decal should be placed on side of engine cylinder head rocker cover. MERCRUISER l and "O " The serial number of MerCruiser I and "0 " Stern Drive Units are located as follows: 1. Beneath MerCruiser decal embossing on either side of drive shaft housing. (Figure 1) 2. On drive shaft housing to bell housing mounting flange. (Figure 1) 3. On and under MerCruiser decal on either side of drive shaft housing. (Figure 1) Figure 1. MerCruiser I and "O " Serial No. Location MERCRUISER 888 Stern drive unit serial number is stamped on drive shaft housing under MerCruiser decal on either side of housing. (Figure 2) Serial number also is on the 888 decal on rear of drive shaft housing. (Figure 2) MERCRUISER II Stern drive unit serial number is stamped on serial plate on front of steering lever housing. (Figure 3) MERCRUISERZH-215-225II-TR and 255II-TR Stern Drive Unit serial number is embossed on the MerCruiser decal (located on left or right side of drive unit). This number also is stamped on drive shaft housing, directly under MerCruiser decal. (Figure 4) Figure 2. MerCruiser 888 Serial No. Location Figure 3. MerCruiser II Serial No. Location Serial No. Figure 4. MerCruiser III-215-225II-TR and 255II-TR 173R1 GENERAL ' N FORMATION - 1A-5 FLUSHING COOLING SYSTEM MERCRUISER 60-80-90 and 4 and 6-CYLINDER ENGINES (Except 200) and 888 NOTE: When engine is operated in salt or silt water, it is recommended to flush engine with fresh water periodically and before storage. CAUTION: Engine must be operated while flushing. To prevent damage to water pump impeller, attach a Flush-Test Device directly over intake holes in gear housing strut to provide cooling water at this point. (Figure I) DO NOT OPERATE above idle speed while flushing with Flush-Test Device. See your local dealer for this device. MerCruiser 888 engines with FRESH WATER COOLING are equipped with seawater pump (located on engine) in addition to seawater pump in drive unit. Cooling water MUST BE supplied to BOTH pumps to prevent damage to water pumps' impellers. 2. Partially open water tap. DO NOT use full city water WARNING: When flushing, be certain that area in pressure. vicinity of propeller is clear and that no person is 3. Shift into neutral gear and run engine at 500-600 RPM to standing nearby, to avoid possible injury. It is advisable circulate water until engine reaches normal operating to remove propeller as a precautionary measure. temperature. Watch water temperature gauge to prevent overheating. Flush until discharged water is clear, THEN 1. Install Flush-Test Device. Connect garden hose between it STOP ENGINE. and water tap. 4. Close water tap and remove Flush-Test Device. MERCRUISER 200 and 8-CYLINDER ENGINES (Except 888) NOTE: When engine is operated in salt water, flush it with 2. Remove hose clamp and hose from water pump inlet. fresh water periodically and before storage. If engine is flushed while boat is in water, water intake must have a sea water cock installed between water pickup and pump inlet. CAUTION: Do not operate engine without cooling water flowing through water pump, or neoprene water pump impellers will become damaged. 3. Connect length of hose to pump inlet and city water tap. Partiallv open tap. Do not use full city water pressure. 4. Place remote control handle in neutral position and start engine. Be sure that no one is near propeller. Operate engine at 500 to 600 RPM in neutral gear to circulate water until engine reaches normal operating temperature. 5. Check that water is being discharged out exhaust outlets and watch water temperature gauge on instrument panel to prevent overheating. 6. Allow engine to run until discharged water is clear. 7. Stop engine and remove flushing hose. Fasten water intake line securely to pump inlet with hose clamp. (Figure 2) 8. Open sea water cock. Figure 1. Flush Test Device Figure 2. Sea Water Pump Inlet Close sea water cock (if flushed while boat is in water). A-6 - GENERAL INFORMATION 173R1 WINTER STORAGE - MARINE ENGINES Cylinder blocks suffer horizontal cracks when water freezes in the block. These freeze cracks are caused by failure to drain the cylinder block and exhaust manifold for winter storage in anticipation of freezing weather. Four and 6-cylinder blocks crack on sides of the engine, just below the core plugs or along the upper edge below the cylinder head. Eight-cylinder blocks usually crack in the area near the MERCRUISER WARNING: Do not operate engine without cooling water flowing through water pump, or water pump will be damaged. 1. Run engine until normal operating temperature is reached, then shut down. 2. Drain engine oil and replace oil filter. 3. Refill crankcase with fresh SAE 30 MS oil. Add 8 ounces of Quicksilver 4-Cycle Engine Oil Supplement (C-92-33365,16 ounce [.473 liter] can) to oil. 4. Shut fuel supply off at fuel tank. 5. Remove flame arrestor and start engine. With engine running at fast idle (800-1200 RPM), slowly pour 4 ounces (.118 liter) of Quicksilver Storage Seal (C-92-28143) or, if not available, 4 ounces of SAE 30 MS oil (for MerCruiser 80 and 90 and 8 ounces of oil for MerCruiser 60) into carburetor throat while engine is running fuel out of carburetor, fuel pump and lines. Stall engine by pouring last two (2) ounces of oil rapidly into carburetor. WARNING: Be sure that engine compartment is well ventilated - and that there are no gasoline vapors present during this operation - to prevent a potential fire hazard. 6. Remove spark plugs and squirt one ounce of Quicksilver Storage Seal or SAE 30 MS oil into each cylinder. Crank engine for 15 seconds with starter to coat cylinder walls. 7. Disconnect battery leads, remove battery and store as specified by battery manufacturer- Clean and service battery supports, container and cables as required. 8. Condition or replace spark plugs. Remove excess oil from around spark plug holes and install plugs. 9. Clean flame arrestor and reinstall. 10. Drain all gasoline from fuel tank. 11. Replace fuel filter. 12. Remove rocker arm cover. If condensation has collected in cover compartment, carefully wipe away all traces of oil-water mixture. Liberally coat valve mechanism and inside of cover with Quicksilver Storage Seal or SAE 30 MS oil. Reinstall cover, using new gasket. 13. On 80 and 90 engine, the cooling system is self-draining thru a check valve which is located on the right, rear side of the engine block, next to hydraulic pump. (Figure 1) To be sure that valve is not plugged with foreign material, which could prevent cooling system from draining, proceed as follows for 80 and 90 engine. a. Position bow of boat so that it is higher than stern. Rear of engine must be lower than front to provide complete draining. 173R1 hvdraulic lifters or below the intake manifold in the valley of the block. If freezing failure is indicated or water is found in the crankcase, remove the intake manifold to check these areas. NOTE: For closed cooling system maintenance, refer to Section 7D "Cooling". 60-80-90 Figure 1. Cooling System Check Valve b. Loosen hose clamp on hose "A " in Figure 1 and remove hose from check valve. c. Insert a short length of wire into valve to be sure that valve is not plugged. d. Remove plug from rear of manifold. (Figure 3) e. Allow water to drain completely. Reinstall hose and plug. 14. For MerCruiser 60 engine, remove exhaust manifold elbow and cylinder block drain plugs and allow all water to drain out. One plug is located in exhaust manifold elbow toward front and one plug is located in cylinder block on front of engine. (Figure 2, 3 or 4) Both plugs must be removed to drain completely. Reinstall drain plugs and tighten securely so that cooling system will be operable when engine is returned to service. See "Returning Engine to Service", following. For draining closed cooling system, refer to Section 7-D "Accessories". Figure 2. Drain Plug - MerCruiser 60 GENERAL ' N FORMATION - 1A-7 Drain Plug MERCRUISER 110 thru 165 WARNING: Do not operate engine without cooling water flowing through water pump, or water pump will be damaged. 1. Run engine sufficiently to bring it up to normal operating temperature, then shut down and drain crankcase completely and remove oil filter. 2. Refill crankcase with fresh SAE 30 MS oil and add one pint (.473 liter) can of Quicksilver 4-Cycle Engine Oil Supplement (C-92-33365) to crankcase oil at this time and install new oil filter. 3. Shut gasoline supply off at fuel tank. 4. Restart engine and operate for a few minutes at fast idle (800 to 1200 RPM) to be sure that new oil is being well-circulated and that new oil filter cartridge is properly sealed. Stop and recheck oil level to be sure that level is still at "FULL" mark on dipstick. Add oil if necessary. WARNING: Be sure engine compartment is well 6. Replace fuel filter. ventilated - and that there are no gasoline vapors 7. Drain all gasoline from fuel tank. present during this operation — to prevent a potential 8- Release and inspect alternator and water pump drive belt. fire hazard. Replace if necessary. Reinstall in a loose position. 9- Remove manifold and cylinder block drain plugs. Plugs are 5. Remove flame arrestor and fog internal surfaces of located as shown in Figure 5 or 6. All plugs must be induction system by restarting engine and running at fast removed to drain completely. idle. (800 to 1200 RPM) while slowly pouring Quicksilver When draining the engine's cooling system, it is necessary Storage Seal (C-92-28143) or. if not available, pour that the bow of the boat be higher than the stern, or water approximately one cup of SAE 30 MS oil into carburetor may remain trapped in the cylinder block and exhaust during the time that the engine is running gasoline out of manifold. It also is advisable to insert a short piece of wire the carburetor, fuel pump and fuel lines. Stall engine by in the drain holes to be sure that sand, silt or other foreign pouring last two (2) ounces of oil rapidly into carburetor. material is not partially blocking the drain hole. If the engine is not completely drained, the trapped water may freeze and cause severe damage to the engine. For draining closed cooling system, refer to "Accessories" Section 7D. 10. Reinstall drain plugs and tighten securely so that cooling system will be operable when engine is returned to service. 11. Inspect all water hoses for cracks and deterioration and service them as required. 12. For additional insurance against freezing and rust, it is recommended that the cooling system be filled with a solution of permanent anti-freeze and water. Solution should be mixed to the anti-freeze manufacturer s recommended proportion for the lowest temperature to which engine will be exposed while in storage. jVOTE: Refer to Figures 7-8-9 to determine which exhaust manifold and water distribution block is on engine. 173R1 Figure 3. Manifold Drain Plug - MerCruiser 80 Figure 4. Manifold Drain Plug - MerCruiser 90 Figure 6. Drain Plugs 120 Model 04237 Figure 5. Drain Plugs - 140-165 Models 1 A-8 - GENERAL INFORMATION Fill cooling system with anti-freeze as follows: A. Engine Equipped as in Figure 7 1) Remove water intake hose from elbow in manifold body and insert plug in elbow. 2) Remove water outlet hose from relief valve body. 3) Install hose on water distribution block in inverted position. (Figure 7) 4) Pour anti-freeze solution into neck on distribution block until solution rises in neck on relief valve body. 5) Replace hose on relief valve body. Figure 7. Filling with Anti-Freeze B. Engine Equipped as in Figure 8 1) Remove water intake hose from elbow in manifold body and insert plug in elbow. 2) Remove hose between distribution block and relief valve body. 3) Pour anti-freeze solution into neck on distribution block until solution rises in neck on relief valve body. 4) Replace hose between distribution block and relief valve body. Figure 8. Filling with Anti-Freeze C. Engine Equipped as in Figure 9 1) Remove water distribution block cover and thermostat. 2) Remove hose from front end cap on manifold. 3) Pour anti-freeze solution into opening in water distri bution block until cylinder block, head and manifold are full. 4) Reinstall thermostat, using a new gasket, and connect hose to manifold end cap. Figure 9. Filling with Anti-Freeze 13. Remove spark plugs from each cylinder and squirt one (1) ounce (.03 liter) of Quicksilver Storage Sea) (C-92-28143) or SAE 30 MS oil into each cylinder. Be sure to pull high tension lead out of distributor and ground wire while cranking. With spark plugs removed, crank engine for at least 15 seconds with starter to assure a good coating of oil on cylinder walls. Remove excess oil from around spark plug holes and lightly lubricate spark plug threads. 14. Remove and clean flame arrestor and replace. 15. Remove battery and service as specified by manufacturer. Clear, and service battery supports, containers and cables as required. 16. Remove valve rocker arm cover and inspect valve train mechanism for worn or damaged parts- If condensation has occurred in rocker arm cover compartment, carefully wipe away all traces of oil-water mixture, then liberally coat valve mechanism and inside of cover with Quicksilver Storage Seal (C-92-28143) or SAE 30 MS oil. Reinstall cover, using new gasket. 17. Remove oil filler cap and thoroughly clean and re-oil. 18. Clean outside of engine and spray Quicksilver Rust and Corrosion Preventive (C-92-29152) on exterior surfaces of engine or wipe down with rag to leave a very ligh coating of Storage Seal or SAE 30 MS oil on exterior surfaces of engine. Cover engine to prevent direct exposure to weather elements. 173R1 GENERAL ' N FORMATION - 1A-9 8—CYLINDER ENGINES WARNING: Do not operate engine without cooling water flowing through water pump, or water pump will be damaged. 1. Drain engine oil and replace oil filter. 2. Refill crankcase with fresh SAE 30 MS oil and one pint (.473 liter) can of Quicksilver 4-CycIe Engine Oil Supplement (C-92-33365). 3. Shut gasoline supply off at fuel tank. 4. Remove flame arrestor and fog internal surfaces of induction system bv restarting engine and running at fast idle (800 to 1200 RPM), while slowly pouring Quicksilver Storage Seal (C-92-28143) or, if not available, approximately one cup of SAE 30 MS oil into carburetor during the time that the engine is running gasoline out of the carburetor, fuel pump and fuel lines. Stall engine by- pouring last two (2) ounces of oil rapidly into carburetor. WARNING: Be sure that engine compartment is well ventilated - and that there are no gasoline vapors present during this operation - to prevent engine fire. 5. Disconnect battery. 6. Drain all gasoline from fuel tank. 7. Release and inspect alternator and water pump drive belt. Replace if necessary. Reinstall in a loose position. 8. Remove cooling system drain plugs. Drain plugs are located as shown in Figure 10 or 11. All drain plugs must be removed to drain engine completely. When draining MerCruiser 888, 215, 225 and 255, engine must be level to prevent water from being trapped in cylinder block and manifolds. When draining all other V-8 engines, the front of the engine should be higher than the rear to prevent water lrom being trapped in the cylinder block and manifolds. It also is advisable to insert a short piece of wire in the drain holes to be sure that foreign material is not partially blocking hole and preventing water from draining completely. 9. Remove water intake hose from sea water pump and allow water to drain. Reinstall hose. Remove circulating pump hose and allow water to drain. Reinstall hose. For draining closed cooling system, refer to "Accessories" Section 7D. 03836 Figure 10. Transmission Cooler Drain Plug 1 A-10 - GENERAL INFORMATION Figure 11. Engine Oil Cooler and Transmission Oil Cooler Drain Plug- 325 Model 10. Reinstall drain plugs and tighten securely so that cooling system will function when engine is returned to service. 11. Inspect all water hoses for cracks and deterioration and replace them if required. 12. Remove spark plugs and squirt one (1) ounce of Quicksilver Storage Seal (C-92-28143) or SAE 30 MS oil into each cylinder. With spark plugs removed, crank engine for at least 15 seconds with starter to assure a good coating of oil on cylinder walls. Pull high tension lead out of distributor and ground wire while cranking. Remove excess oil from around spark plug holes and lightly lubricate spark plug threads. 13. Service spark plugs. See Section 3 "Ignition". 14. Remove and clean flame arrestor and replace. 15. Remove battery and service as specified by manufacturer. Clean and service battery supports, containers and cables as required. 1 6. Replace fuel pump inlet filter. 17. Remove valve rocker arm covers. If condensation has occurred in rocker arm cover compartment, carefully wipe away all traces of oil-water mixture, then liberally coat valve mechanism and inside of cover with Quicksilver Storage Seal (C-92-28143) or SAE 30 MS oil. Reinstall covers, using new gaskets. 18. Clean outside of engine and spray Quicksilver Rust and Corrosion Preventive (C-92-29152) on exterior surfaces of engine or wipe down with rag to leave a very light coating of Storage Seal or SAE 30 MS oil on exterior surfaces of engine. 19. For additional insurance against freezing and rust, it is recommended that the cooling system be filled with a solution of permanent anti-freeze and water. Solution should be mixed to the anti-freeze manufacturer's recommended proportion for the lowest temperature to which engine will be exposed while in storage. Fill cooling system as follows: (Figure 12 or 13) a. Loosen hose clamps, which fasten hoses to front manifold end caps, and remove hoses. b. Remove screws, which fasten thermostat housing cover to housing, and remove cover. c. Remove thermostat from housing. d. Pour anti-freeze solution into thermostat housing until level comes up to top. 173R1 Figure 12. Filling MerCruiser 888-215-225H-TR and 2553I-TR with Anti-Freeze e. Pour anti-freeze solution into opening on each manifold end cap until level comes up to top of end cap. (Figure 12 or 13) f. On some "V-8 " engines, it may be necessary to remove plugs from exhaust manifold (one in each manifold). (Figure 14) Pour anti-freeze solution in each manifold Figure 14. Plug Removed from V-8 Engines 23. Remove propeller, apply Anti-Corrosion Grease (C-92-45134A1) to propeller shaft and reinstall. 24. Wipe exterior of stem drive unit clean and spray with Quicksilver Corrosion and Rust Preventive (C-92-29152). 25. Store stern drive unit in the normal operating position. The universal joint bellows may develop a "set", if unit is stored in a tilted-up position, and result in bellows failure when unit is returned to service. See "Returning Engine to Service", following. Figure 13. Filling MerCruiser 225-250-325 with Anti-Freeze until solution is visible. Coal threads on plugs with a thread sealing compound and reinstall plugs. Remove hose which runs from lower water metering housing to engine block water pump. (Figure 15) Pour anti-freeze solution into hose until solution is visible in hose. Reinstall hose and tighten hose clamp securely. g. Place new gasket on thermostat housing and install thermostat and cover. h. Connect hoses to manifold end caps. 20. Drain stern drive unit lubricant and refill with new Super-Duty Gear Lubricant (C-92-52650). 21. Lubricate drive unit upper pivot pin. 22. Lubricate steering cable. Figure 15. Hose Removed from Lower Water Metering Housing H-TR TRANSMISSION DRAIN INSTRUCTIONS In order to prevent damage to transmission oil cooler from freezing water on MerCruiser 225II-TR and 255I1-TR Engines, T 3 S3one of the following procedures must be followed. 1. Fill oil cooler with anti-freeze as follows: a. On engines with Power Steering, remove Power Steering cooler drain plug. Remove transmission cooler outlet hose from exhaust elbow and pour anti-freeze 173R1 GENERAL ' N FORMATION - 1A-11 into hose (a small funnel may be used) until anti-freeze cooler inlet hose from seawater pump and pour appears at Power Steering oil cooler. Reinstall Power anti-freeze into cooler outlet hose until anti-freeze Steering cooler drain plug and attach hose, appears at seawater pump end of oil cooler hose. b. Engines without Power Steering: Remove transmission Reattach hoses. RETURNING ENGINE TO SERVICE 1. Install battery, being sure that it is in a fully-charged from water intake elbow in manifold and reinstall hose. condition. Clean and lightly lubricate terminals. 2. Drain anti-freeze, if you desire to save it. 4. Readjust drive belt tension, as outlined in "Tune-up" 3. Check cooling system to be sure all hoses are properly Section I. attached. 5. Check engine alignment. 6. Check engine, stem drive unit and Power Trim pump oil NOTE: On 4 and 6-cylinder engines, which have been levels. filled with anti-freeze solution, be sure to remove plug 7. Check engine mount fasteners. 173R1 1A-12 - GENERAL INFORMATION WINTER STORAGE -STERN DRIVE UNITS It is recommended that the stem drive unit be stored in position, the bellows may develop a "set" which would result normal operating position. If the unit is stored in the "tilt-up" in premature failure when the unit is returned to service. MERCRUISER I-thru-888 Be sure that water drain holes in gear housing are open. 2. Drain stern drive lubricant and refill with Super-Duty Gear Lubricant (C-92-58229-1). Refer to "Draining and Filling Drive Unit", Section 1C. 3. b bb. .. Pivot socket of steering arm. c. Universal joint shaft splines and engine coupling Figure 2. Drain Plug Location splines. d. Drive unit upper and lower pivot pins. 8. Check water pump impeller. Replace if impeller is worn, e. Drive unit hinge pins. hardened or set. f. Gimbal bearing, if applicable. 9-Check condition of drive unit painted surfaces. Clean and 4. Lubricate universal joint bearings with Universal Joint paint metal surfaces that have become exposed-Spray- Lubricant (C-92-58299-1). stern drive exterior with Corrosion and Rust Preventive 5. Remove propeller, apply Perfect Seal No. 4 (C-92-29152-12). If applicable, also spray underside of (C-92-34227-1) to propeller shaft and reinstall. unit in area around reverse locks. 6. Lubricate shift lock shaft with SAE 30 oil, if applicable. 10. At this time, before installing drive unit, check engine 7. Check bellows condition. Replace if necessary. alignment as explained in Section 2. MERCRUISER II-III-215-225II-TR and 255II-TR Check and refill stern drive unit with Super-Duty 1. Inside boat location. Quicksilver Gear Lubricant (C-92-52650) before storage. a. Ride-Guide steering cable end next to hand nut. Refer to "Draining and Filling Drive Unit" Section 1, Part b. Inner transom mounting plate. C-1) Left side at base of crank unit. 2. Lubricate the various MerCruiser Stern Drive components 2) Right side top for crank ring gear. with Quicksilver Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588) and c. Inside steering lever housing for steering lever Lubricant Gun (C-91-30300) thru grease fittings: shaft. Lubricate following parts with Multipurpose Quicksilver Lubricant (C-92-49388): a. Ride-Guide steering cable end. 173R1 GENERAL INFORMATION -1A-13 2. Outside of boat. a. Gimbal housing upper and lower pivot pin. b. Tilt pins on both sides of gimbal housing. 3. Lubricate universal joint bearings with Universal Joint Lubricant (C-92-58229-1). 4. Check bellows condition and replace if necessary 5. Before installing drive unit, check engine alignment as explained in Section 2. 6. Remove propeller, apply Perfect Seal No. 4 (C-92-34227-1) or a waterproof-type lubricant to propeller shaft and reinstall propeller. (Refer to "Drive Unit" Section 6) 7. Wipe exterior of stern drive unit clean and sprav with Corrosion and Rust Preventive (C-92-29152-12)'. Also spray underside of unit in area around reverse locks. 8. Store stern drive unit in the normal operating position. The universal joint bellows may develop a "set", if unit is stored in a tilted-up position, and result in bellows failure when unit is returned to service. 1 A-14 - GENERAL INFORMATION 173R1 TILT PIN ADJUSTMENT MERCRUISER O-I and H Holes are provided in the gimbal ring to permit changing location of tilt lock pin for proper adjustment of tilt angle. Tilt angle of stern drive unit on transom should be set so anti-cavitation plate (Figure 1) is about parallel with bottom of boat. Speed of boats, with center of gravity located forward, sometimes may be improved by tilting unit out one pin hole. This will tend to raise bow and reduce wetted surface. If unit is tilted in, boat will ride with bow down, wetting more of the bottom and reducing speed, but generally improving operation in rough water. Operation with excessive tilt out may induce cavitation or cause porpoising of the boat. It is, therefore, preferable to level boat by proper loading rather than by extreme adjustment of tilt angle. Figure 1. Tilt Angle of Boat RIGHT! PLANE OR EVEN KEEL GENERAL ' N FORMATION - 1A-15 173R1 POWER TILT OPERATION The MerCruiser Full Power Tilt is actuated by switches mounted in control panel. (Figure 2) Stern drive unit may be raised or lowered when engine is running or stopped. Remote control must be in neutral or forward gear position before raising drive unit. Key switch in control panel must be in '"On" position to raise or lower stern drive unit. 04949 Figure 2. Control Panel Switches To raise drive unit, depress top of rocker switch and hold switch in. To lower drive unit, depress bottom of rocker switch and hold switch in. Reverse lock hook release lever must be in "Lock " position at all times when operating boat. Tilt angle adjustment stud may be positioned in gimbal ring holes, as required, for proper trim when underway. Refer to "Tilt Pin Adjustment", preceding. IMPORTANT: When drive unit reaches the limit of its upward and downward travel and stops moving, rocker switch should be released. Pump motor is equipped with an overload cutout that will open and, thereby, stop pump motor if rocker switch remains depressed more than 10 seconds after drive unit reaches the end of its travel. If cutout should open, do not depress rocker switch for one minute. After this period of time, cutout will close and unit may be operated. BOAT at REST Raising Drive Unit 1. Place remote control lever in neutral or forward position. 2. Turn control panel key switch to "On " position. 3. Push top of rocker switch in and hold until drive unit has tilted up amount desired or reaches end of travel. 4. Turn control panel key switch to "Off " position. Lowering Drive Unit 1. Turn control panel key switch to "On"position. 2. Push bottom of rocker switch in and hold until drive unit reaches end of travel and reverse lock hooks latch. 3. Turn control panel key switch to "Off " position. IMPORTANT: Because of presence of the special alloy "trim-tab" at rear base of drive shaft housing, it is recommended that stern drive unit be left in operating position. If trim tab is out-of-water (as when tilted up) it cannot function as a galvanic corrosion inhibitor. BOAT UNDERWAY Raising Drive Unit 1. Place remote control lever in neutral or forward gear idle position (500-600 RPM). 2. Turn control panel key switch to "On " position. 3. Push top of rocker switch in and hold until drive unit has tilled up amount desired. (Figure 1) NOTE: Tilt unit is intended for shallow water operation at low throttle settings. Do not run at high speed with drive unit tilted out beyond gimbal ring tOt pin flanges, as drive unit has no side thrust support when tilted this high. While running, do not tilt unit so high that water intake holes in gear housing strut are lifted out of the water. This would result in overheating of the engine, as indicated by water temperature gauge on instrument panel. A water pressure gauge can be installed on the dash to give a faster indication of loss of water pressure from tilting too high. Serious engine damage may result from overheating. IMPORTANT: When operating boat with unit tilted up, it is necessary that control panel key is left in "On" position. Safety tilt switch on stern drive unit will not function when control panel key switch is in "On" position and engine will not stop running when drive unit tilts up. Lowering Drive Unit 1. Push bottom of rocker switch in and hold until drive unit reaches end of travel and reverse lock hooks latch. (Figure 1) 2. Turn control panel key switch to "Off " position. IMPORTANT: Be sure to turn key "Off" for normal operation so that safety tilt switch on stem drive unit will function and engine will stop if drive unit strikes an underwater object. 1 A-16 - GENERAL INFORMATION 173R1 POWER TRIM OPERATION (Yellow-White-Green Buttons Panel) NOTE: Remote control lever must be in "Neutral" or "Forward" position when operating Power Trim. Power Trim is actuated by push button switches mounted in control panel. TRIMMING BOAT 1. Trimming Out: Press green "Out" button (Figure 3) until drive unit moves to properly trim boat. Cutout switch will stop drive unit from moving out beyond gimbal ring flanges. 2. Trimming In: Press white "In " button (Figure 3) until drive unit moves to properly trim boat or until drive reaches end of downward travel. TRAILERING BOAT Raise drive unit for trailering or launching by placing remote control lever in "Neutral" or "Forward" and pressing yellow "Up" button on control. (Figure 3) Push trim "In" button to lower drive unit. Figure 3. Yellow-White-Green Buttons Panel | POWER TRIM OPERATION (Red-Red/Green-White Buttons Panel, Black Buttons Panel and Trim Switches Mounted in Remote Control) CAUTION: When using Power Trim on some boats, operation at extreme "In" or "Out" positions greatly increases steering torque, and steering becomes difficult. Stern drive unit should be trimmed to a safe operating angle to provide easy steering. Figure 4. Push Button Switches in Control Lever MerCruiser 215-225IE-TR and 255II-TR 173R1 NOTE: For initial installation and adjustment of trim sender and gauge, refer to the appropriate drive in Section 6. Power Trim is actuated by push button switches mounted ill control lever (Figure 4) or in trim control panel (Figure 5). Red-Red/Green-White button panel operates the same and is the same electrically as Black buttons panel shown in Figure 4. Operate Power Trim only in neutral or forward gear. TRIMMING BOAT 1. Trimming Out: Press "Up " button (Figure 4) until drive unit moves to properly trim boat. If control panel is used (Figure 5). press "Up/Out" button. Cutout switch will stop drive unit from moving out beyond gimbal ring flanges. 2. Trimming In: Press "In" button (Figure 4 or 5) until drive unit moves to properly trim boat or until drive reaches end of downward travel. TRAILERING BOAT 1. Control Lever: Raise drive unit for trailering or launching by placing remote control lever in "Neutral" or "Forward" and pressing "Trailer" button on control. (Figure 4) Push GENERAL ' N FORMATION - 1A-17 trim "In" button on lever to lower drive unit. 2. Control Panel: Raise drive unit for trailering or launching by shifting control to "Neutral" or "Forward"' and pressing "Up" and "Up/Out" buttons simultaneously. (Figure 5) Push trim "In" button to lower drive unit. Raise or lower drive with these buttons for shallow water operation at reduced throttle. CAUTION: Do not run at high speed with drive unit out beyond gimbal ring flanges, as drive unit will have no side thrust support. Exercise caution when operating at extreme angles in shallow water. 04811 Figure 5. Black Buttons Trim Control Panel •as 04590 Figure 6. Indicator Readjustment NOTE: If button is held depressed after drive unit reaches end of upward travel, an overload cutout switch will open and pump motor will stop. To prevent cutout from opening, it is recommended that button(s) be released when drive unit reaches end of upward travel. If cutout should open, do not depress switches for approximately one minute. After this period of time, cutout will close and nit may be operated. INDICATOR READJUSTMENT If unit was fully extended into the "Up " trailer position, it may be necessary to reset the indicator by operating "In" button. Hold until indicator needle (Figure 6) reaches bottom of green arc. 1 A-18 - GENERAL INFORMATION 173R1 PRE-IGNITION and DETONATION PRE-IGNITION Pre-ignition is abnormal fuel ignition, caused by combustion chamber hot spots. Control of the start of ignition is lost, as combustion pressure rises too early, causing power loss and rough running. The upward motion of the piston is opposed by the pressure rise. This can result in extensive damage to the internal parts from the high increase in combustion chamber temperature. (Figure 1) PRE-IGNITION CAUSES 1. Hot spots in the combustion chamber from glowing deposits (due in turn to the use of improper oils and/or fuels). 2. Overheated spark plug electrodes (improper heat range or defective plug). 3. Any other protuberance in the combustion chamber, such as an overhanging piece of gasket, an improperly seated valve or any other inadequately cooled section of material which can serve as a source. Figure 1. Pre-lgnition Damage DETONATION Detonation, commonly called "fuel knock", "spark knock" or "carbon knock", is abnormal combustion of the fuel which causes the fuel to explode violently. The explosion, in turn, causes overheating or damage to the spark plugs, pistons, valves and, in severe cases, results in pre-ignition. (Figure 2) Use of low octane gasoline is one of the most common causes of detonation. Even with high octane gasoline, detonation could occur if engine maintenance is neglected. OTHER CAUSES of DETONATION WARNING: DO NOT operate MerCruiser inboard engines or stern drive engines with new "lead-free" or "no-lead" gasolines. Valve seat failure may occur from the use of these lead-free fuels. Regular leaded and low-lead fuels are satisfactory in all MerCruiser four- cycle engines. Figure 2. Detonation Damage 5. Inadequate cooling of engine by deterioration of cooling 1. Over-advanced ignition timing. system. 2. Lean fuel mixture at or near full throttle (could be caused by carburetor or leaking intake manifold). Engine failures, which result from the foregoing conditions, 3. Cross-firing spark plugs. are beyond the control of Mercury Marine, therefore, no 4. Excess accumulation of deposits on piston and/or com-warranty will apply to failures which occur under these bustion chamber (results in higher compression ratio). conditions. 173R1 GENERAL ' N FORMATION - 1A-19 TRIM TAB REMOVAL and REPLACEMENT 1. Before removing trim tab, mark trailing edge location on cavitation plate and remove plug which is located directly above trim tab. (Figure 3) 2. Loosen screw, which holds trim tab, thru hole in drive housing with a 5/16 or 3/8 alien wrench. 3. Clean recess area to assure metal-to-metal contact between drive and trim tab. 4. Place trim tab in position and secure by reversing removal steps. 5. Readjust trim tab, following, if necessary. Figure 3. Removing Trim Tab TRIM TAB ADJUSTMENT MerCruiser Stern Drives are equipped with an adjustable trim tab to balance "steering torque" so that the steering wheel will turn with equal ease in each direction. Adjust trim tab as follows: 1. Operate boat at best throttle setting. Adjust tilt pin setting or trim boat as outlined under "Power Trim Operation", in this section. Turn steering wheel to left and right, noting in which direction wheel turns more easily. With boat at rest, remove plug from drive shaft housing and loosen alien head screw. (Figure 3) 2. If steering wheel turns more easily to left, position trailing edge of trim tab to left. (Figure 4) 3. If steering wheel turns more easily to right, position trailing edge of trim tab to right. (Figure 4) 4. Tighten socket head screw securely and replace plug. (Figure 3) 5. Operate boat to check setting. Readjust trim tab if necessary. NOTE: When trimming-in or trimming-out, steering torque may increase even though trim tab has been adjusted properly. Trim tab will be the most effective at the boat speed and trim setting for which tab was adjusted. Figure 4. Trim Tab Trailing Edge right 1 A-20 - GENERAL INFORMATION 173R1 MERCRUISER FUEL SYSTEM Observe Coast Guard Regulations when installing fuel system. The following suggestions also should be followed to ensure trouble-free service. FUEL TANK - CAUTIONS In many cases of engine malfunction with fiberglass fuel tanks, 2. Poor joints or connections causing air leaks in fuel system. we have found wax (used in tank construction) dissolved by 3. Absence of large openings at reasonable location prevents the fuel and lodged in the fuel filters. This condition is proper fuel pickup installation. difficult to detect and, although the filters may appear to be in perfect condition, fuel flow is restricted and results in a 4. Some types of galvanized tanks cause flaking of plating, lean-out condition that can be corrected only by replacing thereby clogging fuel pickup and filters. filter elements. In other types of fiberglass fuel tanks, minute 5. Tanks, which have been spray-painted on the inside, particles of fiberglass remain in the tank after construction, experience flaking which clogs pickup and filters. with subsequent clogging of fuel filters. 6. Fuel tanks should be installed in a position below the In addition, the fuel pickup in "built-in" or special fuel tanks carburetor itself when boat is at rest. If tank is located is unsuitable to handle fuel requirements to the engine, above carburetor, gravity feed could cause carburetor thereby causing engine malfunction. flooding. 7. Rocking or jostling of boat, while moored, may result in CAUTION: Special or "built-in" fuel tanks are not unseated inlet needle valve and cause carburetor to flood. approved. Exercise caution if used with MerCruiser This will allow raw fuel to enter intake manifold and engine. combustion chambers and seep past piston rings, thus diluting crankcase oil. If this condition exists, it can be Other causes of engine malfunctions are: corrected only by relocating fuel tank so that fuel level in 1. Fuel pickup has too small a screen or filter over end. tank is below carburetor bowl when boat is at rest. FUEL LINES - LENGTH and SIZES If length of fuel line is less than 30 ft. (9.144m), use line 3. Use copper lines and flare type fittings. and fittings which have an inside diameter of not less than 4. Fuel line must be installed free of stress and firmly secured (6.35mm). If length of fuel line is more than 30 ft., use to prevent vibration and/or chafing. line and fittings which have an inside diameter of not less 5. Avoid sharp bends. than 5/16" (7.94mm). 6. Flex line on inlet side of fuel pump must be connected to 2. Fuel line size must not be smaller than 5/16" ID on copper line to absorb any vibration or movement caused engines of 200 HP and over. A larger line should be used in by motor mount deflection when engine is running. cases where long lines, valves, manifolds and filters are used. ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION 1. Prior to reinstalling electrical connections for control and 3. Drive unit switch leads must be connected for tilt or trim accessory harnesses, select proper schematic wiring dia-system to function properly. gram. 4. Connect leads per color code, as specified in wiring 2. Neutral starting switch leads (yellow) from control box diagram. and instrument panel must be connected individually to 5. Nut and screw connections should be coated with Liquid prevent starting engine in gear. Connect both yellow leads Neoprene (C-92-25771). A protective insulating sleeve also from instrument panel together, if control is not equipped should be used to prevent possible short circuits. with a neutral starting switch. 173R1 GENERAL ' N FORMATION - 1A-21 SECTION 1 - GENERAL INFORMATION PART B - TUNEUP INDEX Page Description 1 B-1 Compression Test 1 B-1 Spark Plugs 1 B-1 Conventional Type 1 B-1 Polar Gap Type 1 B-2 Ignition System . 1 B-3 Breaker Points and Condenser Replacement or Cleaning ... . 1 B-3 Points Spring Tension 1 B-3 Point Alignment 1 B-3 Point Gap and Dwell Adjustment 1 B-4 Ignition Timing 1 B-6 Timing MerCruiser 60-80-90 1 B-7 Carburetor Adjustment 1 B-8 Throttle Cable Adjustments 1B-11 Fuel Pump Pressure Test 1B-11 Battery and Battery Cables 1B-11 Valve Adjustment 1B-12 Mechanical Lifters 1B-12 Manifold 1B-12 Crankcase Ventilation 1B-12 TUNE-UP DESCRIPTION This section outlines procedures to follow when performing The extent of engine tuneup usually is determined by the engine tuneup on MerCruiser Marine Engines and Stern Drives. interval since the last engine service. Servicing of specific items To assure lasting results, it is advisable that the service on the engine should be performed at regular intervals, technician follow a definite and thorough procedure of depending upon operating conditions. When major corrective analysis and correction of all items which affect power, action is required, refer to appropriate sections of this manual performance and economy. for detail service information. COMPRESSION TEST 1. Remove any foreign matter from around spark plugs by 2. Remove flame arrestor and block throttle and choke in blowing away with compressed air, then remove plugs. wide open position. 3. Insert compression gauge firmlv in spark plug port. (Figure 1) 4. Crank engine thru at least 4 compression strokes to obtain highest possible reading. 5. Check and record compression of each cylinder. Compression should read as indicated in tuneup "Specifications" Section 8. Variation between highest and lowest reading cylinders should be less than 20 lbs. (1.4kg/cm^). 6. If one or more cylinders read low or uneven, inject a tablespoon of engine oil on top of pistons thru spark plug port. Crank engine several times and recheck compression. 7. Checking results: a. If compression increases, but does not necessarily reach normal, rings are worn. b. If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or seating poorly. c. If 2 adjacent cylinders indicate low compression and injecting oil does not increase compression, the cause may be a head gasket leak between cylinders with resulting engine coolant and/or oil in cylinders. PLUGS CONVENTIONAL TYPE 1. Inspect each plug for broken, glazed or blistered procelain and badly worn electrodes. Replace plugs which are not serviceable. Be sure that all plugs are the same make and number as listed under specifications. 2. Prior to installing used plugs, file center electrode flat and adjust gap to setting with a round feeler gauge. (Figure 2) 3. Prior to installing new plugs, adjust gap to setting listed in specifications, with a round feeler gauge. (Figure 2) 4. Wipe plug seats in cylinder head clean. Place new gaskets on used plugs and thread plugs into cylinder head. Tighten plugs with a torque wrench to "Specifications" Section 8. If torque wrench is not available, turn plugs in finger-tight, then turn an additional %-turn with a wrench. Figure 2. Adjusting Gap Figure 1. Checking Compression SPARK 273R1 GENERAL INFORMATION - 1 B-1 POLAR GAP TYPE 1. Check condition of external insulator. If insulator is cracked, replace plug. 2. Check depth of center electrode as shown in Figure 3. If electrode is burned back more than 1/32" (.8mm), replace plug. 3. Cracks, which may be found around internal insulator (electrode end), will not harm plug operation, and plug may be used. 4. Wipe plug seats in cylinder head clean, place new gaskets on used plugs and thread plugs into cylinder head. Tighten plugs with a torque wrench to "Specifications" Section 8. If torque wrench is not available, turn plugs in finger-tight, then turn an additional %-turn with a wrench. Figure 3. Checking Spark Plug Electrode Depth 1 A-2 - GENERAL INFORMATION 173R1 IGNITION SYSTEM 1. Check spark plug leads and coil lead for abrasions or other damage. Replaoe leads which are not serviceable, being sure that leads are connected securely to the correct spark plugs. 2. Remove distributor cap, clean and inspect for cracks, carbon tracks and eroded electrodes. Replace cap if damage is found. 3- Check distributor centrifugal advance mechanism by turning rotor clockwise by hand as far as possible, then releasing rotor so that springs return it to its retarded position. If rotor does not return readily, distributor must be disassembled and cause for malfunction corrected. 4. Clean rotor and inspect for cracks and badly eroded electrode. Replace rotor if damage is found. BREAKER POINTS and CONDENSER REPLACEMENT or CLEANING NOTE: Does not apply to Thunderbolt Ignition. 1. Remove distributor cap and rotor. 2. Remove breaker points and condenser. 3. Examine distributor points and clean or replace if necessary. Contact points with an overall gray color and only slight roughness or pitting need not be replaced. Replace points which are burned or badly pitted. Replace condenser when replacing points, unless sufficient test equipment is available to check for a defect. 4. Dirty contacts should be cleaned with a clean ignition point file. Do not use emery cloth or sandpaper, since particles will imbed and cause arcing and rapid burning of points. FINDING CAUSE OF TROUBLE: Where burned or badly pitted points are encountered, ignition system and engine should be checked to determine cause of trouble so that it can be eliminated. Unless condition, which causes point burning or pitting, is corrected, new points will provide no better service than the old points. 5. Clean distributor and breaker plate. 6. Place points and condenser in position and tighten hold-down screws. 7. Tighten all connections. 8. Lubricate distributor cam with a thin film of high-meltingpoint, non-bleeding grease or replace distributor cam shaft lubricating wick. POINTS SPRING TENSION 1. Check distributor point spring tension (contact point pressure) with spring gauge, hooked to breaker lever at contact, and pull at 90° to breaker lever. Points should be closed (cam follower between lobes) and reading taken just as points separate for spring tension. Refer to "Specifications" Section 8. 2. If tension is not within limits, adjust by bending breaker lever spring. If pressure is excessive, if can be decreased by pinching spring carefully. To increase pressure, lever must be removed from distributor so that spring can be bent away from lever. Avoid excessive spring distortion! Do not bend with pliers. NOTE: Excessive point pressure will cause excessive wear on points, cam and rubbing block, while weak point pressure permits bouncing or chattering which results in arcing and burning of points and an ignition miss at high speed. Figure 4. Alignment of Points POINT ALIGNMENT 1. Check alignment of distributor points with points closed. (Figure 4) Align new points where necessary, but do not attempt to align used points. Instead, replace used points where serious misalignment is observed. 2. Align points by bending fixed contact support as necessary with alignment tool, if available. Do not bend breaker arm! 3. Inspect alignment of rubbing block with cam and check for a twisted arm or pivot pin if alignment is not correct. Correct contact point opening is important, particularly during starting and low speed operation. If contact points are set too close, arcing and burning will occur and cause hard starting and poor low speed performance. If points are set too wide, cam angle or dwell will be too small to allow saturation of coil at high engine speeds and result in a weak spark. Distributor point opening has a direct 273R1 GENERAL INFORMATION - 1 B-3 bearing on cam angle or dwell, which is the number of degrees that breaker cam rotates from the time points close until they open again. (Figure 5) NOTE: Breaker arm rubbing block must be positioned at a high point on cam when adjusting. 4. Adjust point gap or dwell (see following section). 5. Make sure that all distributor wire terminals are clean and tight. 6. Install rotor and distributor cap. NOTE: Use notch or outer edge of distributor cap as a guide for proper replacement (over primary wire) of cap. It is possible to install incorrectly. 7. Press all wires firmly into cap towers. Figure 5. Cam Angle POINT GAP and DWELL ADJUSTMENT MERCRUISER 60, 80 and 90 1. Remove distributor cap. 2. Remove rotor and hook up dwell meter. NOTE: Clean used contact points before adjusting. 3. Loosen point lock screw slightly. 4. While cranking engine with starter, adjust dwell with a 1. Loosen contact support lock screw and turn adjusting screwdriver (Figure 6) to obtain reading on dwell meter, as screw to obtain proper gap. See "Specifications" section. specified in "Specifications" Section 8, and tighten lock 2. Retighten contact support and lock screw. screw. 3. After checking and adjusting contact point opening to specifications, cam angle or dwell may be checked with a NOTE: Cam angle increases as point opening is decreased contact angle meter, if such equipment is available. Refer and vice versa. to "Specifications" section for proper cam angle. If cam angle is less than specified minimum, check for defective 5. Install rotor and distributor cap and recheck dwell with cam lobes. Variation in cam angle readings between idle engine running. speed and 1750 engines RPM should not exceed 3°. Excessive variation in this speed range indicates wear in MERCRUISER 888-215-225H-TR and 255H-TR distributor. 1. If necessary, align points by bending stationary bracket. MERCRUISER 120-140-160-165-200 DO NOT bend the breaker arm. 2. Rotate distributor until rubbing block rests on peak of Point gap or dwell can be adjusted by 2 methods. It is cam lobe, which will provide maximum breaker point preferred that points be adjusted with a feeler gauge, then opening. checked with a dwell meter, if available, with engine 3. Insert correct feeler gauge between breaker points. running. Points, however, also can be adjusted, as well as 4. Loosen lockscrew and adjust points to correct gap. checked, with a dwell meter as follows: 5. After adjusting contact point opening to specifications, check cam angle or dwell with a contact angle meter, if such equipment is available. MERCRUISER 225 (Not 225 H-TR) 1. To adjust dwell angle (contact point opening), run engine at idle and raiser window provided in distributor cap. 2. Insert hex-type wrench into head of adjusting screw. (Figure 7) 3. Use one of 2 following methods to set dwell angle: a. Turn adjusting screw until specified dwell angle of 28° to 32° (30° preferred) is obtained, as measured by dwell meter. b. Turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) until engine begins to miss, then turn /4-turn in opposite direction. This method is used only when dwell meter is not available. 173R1 Figure 6. Adjusting Points on 4 and 6-Cylinder Models 1 A-4 - GENERAL INFORMATION Since contact point set is factory aligned on assembly, dwell angle is only necessary adjustment. Figure 7. Setting Dwell Angle - MerCruiser 225------> GENERAL INFORMATION - 1 B-5 IGNITION TIMING TIMING MARK LOCATION The timing marks and their locations are illustrated in Figures l-thru-7, following. TIMING MERCRUISER ENGINES (Except 60-80-90) 1. Connect timing light to No. 1 spark plug, using extension at plug. Connect power supply leads on light to battery (12 volts). Refer to "Specifications" Section 8 for cylinder numbering and location. 2. Connect tachometer to engine. 3. Start engine and run at 500 RPM. 4. Aim timing light at timing tab. located on timing gear cover and crankshaft pullev on "110" or harmonic balancer on "140"and "V-8" engines. NOTE: Early production "110" and "140" engines have timing tab located at right (starboard) side of timing gear cover and timing notch on outer edge of crankshaft pulley or harmonic balancer. (Figures 1 and 2) Figure 1. Early Timing Tab on 110 Late production "110"and "140"engines have timing tab located on left (port) side of timing bear cover and timing notch on inner edge of crankshaft pulley or harmonic balancer. (Figure 3) Figure 2. Early Timing Tab on 140 Figure 4. Timing Tab on V-8 Engine Markings on tabs are in 2° increments, with greatest number of markings on "A" side of "O". All BTDC settings fall on the ".4 " (Advance) side of "0". 5. Adjust timing by loosening distributor clamp and rotating distributor body as required until timing mark on balancer or pulley lines up with mark on tab specified in "Specifications" Section 8. Tighten clamp and recheck location of timing mark. 6. Stop engine and remove timing light. Figure 5. Timing Line on 888-215-225 IL-TR and 255H-TR Engines 1 A-6 - GENERAL INFORMATION 173R1 TIMING MERCRUISER 60, 80 and 90 ENGINE NOT RUNNING 1. Locate No. 1 piston if firing position by either of 2 methods described below. a. Remove No. 1 spark plug and, with finger on plug hole, crank engine until compression is felt in No. 1 cylinder. Continue cranking until mark on timing chain cover lines up with timing mark on alternator flywheel or .. . b. Remove rocker cover and crank engine until No. 1 intake valve closes, then continue to crank slowly until mark on timing chain cover lines up with timing mark on alternator flywheel. (Figure 6) Figure 6. Timing Tab on MerCruiser 60 NOTE: No. 1 cylinder is cylinder nearest transom. 2. Connect 12-volt test lamp or voltmeter between distributor primary lead screw and to ground. 3. Turn on ignition switch. 4. Loosen distributor hold-down clamp and turn distributor counterclockwise until test lamp lights or voltmeter indicates 12 volts. This indicates that contact points and just opening. 5. Tighten distributor hold-down clamp. ENGINE RUNNING 1. Connect timing light to No. 1 spark plug. NOTE: No. 1 cylinder is cylinder nearest transom. Refer to "Specifications"Section 8. 2. Connect power supply leads on timing light to battery. 3. Start engine and run at 650 RPM. 4. Aim timing light at timing mark on timing chain cover. 5. Loosen distributor hold-down clamp and turn distributor in either direction required until timing mark on alternator flywheel aligns with mark on housing. (Figure 7) 6. Tighten distributor hold-down clamp and recheck alignment of timing marks. 7. Stop engine and remove timing light. Figure 7. Lining-Up Timing Marks - 80 and 90 273R1 GENERAL INFORMATION - 1 B-7 CARBURETOR The following carburetor adjustments should be performed. 1. Clean or replace carburetor inlet fuel filter. 2. Idle mixture and speed adjustment - all models a. Be sure that flame arrestor is installed. b. Start engine and allow to run until normal operating temperature is reached and choke is fully open. c. Stop engine: disconnect throttle cable from engine. d. Start engine. Adjust idle speed screw to obtain recommended idle RPM as indicated in "Specifications" Section 8. e. Adjust idle mixture screw(s). 1) Stop engine; turn idle mixture adjusting needles in until they very lightly just touch adjusting needle seal, then back needles off seats the specified number of turns for preliminary idle adjustment. 2) Start engine. Adjust idle mixture needle for highest, steadiest manifold vacuum reading. If a vacuum gauge is nol available, obtain smoothest running, maximum idle speed by turning idle adjusting needle in until engine RPM begins to drop off, then backing needle off over "high spot" until engine RPM again drops off. Set idle adjusting needle halfway between the 2 points for satisfactory idle mixture setting. Repeat procedure with other needle. Should these adjustments show an increase in idle RPM, reset idle speed adjusting screw to obtain specified idle RPM and again adjust idle mixture adjusting needle. (Figures 1-2-3-4-5-6 and 7) 3. Stop engine. Check that throttle valves are fully open when remote control is in full forward position. On 02412 Figure 1. Idle Adjustment - MerCruiser 80 (Some "80''Models Have Adjustments on Opposite Side) MerCruiser 120-thru-165, with throttle valves fully open, turn wide open throttle stop adjusting screw clockwise until screw just touches throttl e lever. (Figure 3) Tighten 02801 Figure 2. Idle Adjustment - Early MerCruiser 120 1 A-8 - GENERAL INFORMATION ADJUSTMENT set nut sccurely to prevent adjustment screw from turning. Return control to neutral gear, idle position, and check that idle stop screw is against stop. IMPORTANT: Do not turn idle mixture screw(s) tightiv against stop, or mixture needle and/or seat will be damaged. f. Shift unit into forward gear. g. Re-adj::st idle speed screw to obtain recommended idle RPM. Figure 3. Idle Adjustment - MerCruiser 120-140-160-165-200 (MerCruiser 200 Does Xot Have WOT Stop Screw) Figure 4. Idle Adjustment - MerCruiser 225 (With 4GC Carburetor) Figure 5. Idle Adjustment - MerCruiser 225-250-325 173R1 Figure 6. Idle Adjustment Screw - MerCruiser 888-215-2251-TR and 255 H-TR Idle Fuel Adjusting Needle Figure 8. MerCruiser 80 Choke Setting Choke Plate Mark Index Point 04932 04915 Figure 7. Idle Mixture Screw - MerCruiser 888-215-225 n-TR and 255H.-TR h. Stop engine and move shift lever to neutral position. i. Connect throttle cable (see throttle cable adjustment, following). 3. Automatic choke adjustment: MERCRUISER 80-90-120-140-160-165; MERCRUISER 215-888-225 H-TR and 255H-TR with HOLLEY MODEL; and 225 with 4GC CARBURETORS a. Remove flame arrestor. b. Check choke valve for binding or sticking. c. Loosen 3 retaining screws. d. Rotate choke cover against coil tension until index mark is lined up with proper index point. PROPER INDEX POINT (1) MerCruiser 80 set at last notch lean. (Figure 8) (2) MerCruiser 90-120-140-160-165-888-215-225 II-TR and 255 II-TR-align choke plate mark with index point on housing. (Figure 9) (3) MerCruiser 225 - set choke plate mark 3 notches lean of index point on housing. (Figure 9) NOTE: Rotate clockwise for lean. 273R1 Figure 9. Typical Choke Setting - MerCruiser 90-120-140-160165- 888-215-225H-TR and 255IT-TR e. Before operation, choke should be lightly closed at room temperature. f. At normal operating temperature, choke should move to full open. g. After adjustment, tighten retaining screws and replace flame arrestor. MERCRUISER 200-225-250 (With QUADRAJET CARBURETOR) a. No adjustment is required on MerCruiser 200 or on carburetors with electric chokes. b. MerCruiser 225-250 (1) Remove flame arrestor. (2) Disconnect choke coil rod from choke lever. (3) Hold choke valve shut in carburetor and position choke rod at bottom of choke lever hole. (4) Push choke coil rod DOWN to end of travel. (5) TOP of choke coil rod should be even with BOTTOM of hole in choke lever. (6) Bend choke coil rod until above position is reached. (Figure 10) (7) Connect choke coil rod and replace flame arrestor. GENERAL INFORMATION - 1 B-9 Top of Hole Even with Bottom of Rod Bend Rod to Adjust Rod against Stop Figure 10. Choke Coil Rod Figure 11. Choke Coil Rod Adjustment - 225-250 Engines Adjustment - 325 Engine MERCRUISER 325 a. Remove flame arrestor. b. Disconnect choke coil rod from choke lever. c. Hold choke valve shut in carburetor and position choke coil rod at top of choke lever hole. d. Pull choke coil rod UP to end of travel. e. TOP of hole should be even with BOTTOM of rod. f. Bend choke coil rod until above position is reached. (Figure 11) g. Connect choke coil rod and replace flame arrestor. 4. Check float bowls for presence of water and corrosion. 1 A-10 - GENERAL INFORMATION 173R1 THROTTLE CABLE ADJUSTMENTS 1. Place remote control handle in neutral gear, idle position. If boat is equipped with a single-lever MerControl with neutral warm-up lever, place lever in down position. 2. Fasten cable to throttle lever. See appropriate Figure in Removal, Installation and .Alignment Section 2 under "Throttle Cable Attachment". 3. Fully contact throttle cable by grasping behind brass barrel and pushing toward throttle lever. 4. Adjust brass barrel to align with anchor stud. NOTE: MerCruiser 120 Only -Position throttle arm so that centerline of link rod is over center of throttle arm pivot screw head prior to adjusting brass barrel. 5. Fasten brass barrel on stud with washers and elastic stop nuts. 6. Check that primary throttle valves are fully open when remote control handle is all-the-way forward. 7. Return control handle to neutral and check that carburetor throttle lever is against idle stop screw. FUEL PUMP PRESSURE TEST 1. Disconnect fuel line at fuel filter and attach fuel pump pressure gauge to fuel line. 2. Start engine and run at idle. Observe reading on gauge. Pressure should be as specified in "Specifications" Section 8 and remain constant at all speeds between idle and 1000 RPM. 3. If pressure is too low, inspect fuel lines for kinks, leaks and restrictions and correct any defects found. If necessary, remove fuel lines and blow out with compressed air to remove any foreign material. When reinstalling lines, be sure that they are not twisted or kinked, thereby causing restriction. If pressure is too low or too high or varies at different speeds, pump should be removed for repair or replacement. 4. Remove gauge and reconnect fuel line to filter. BATTERY and BATTERY CABLES 1.2. Inspect battery and cables and perform necessary service on these components. Inspect for signs of corrosion on battery, cables and battery from shaking around in its holder, but it should not be tightened to point where battery case will be placed under a severe strain. surrounding area, loose or broken carriers, cracked or 8. To insure good contact, battery cables should be tight on bulged cases, dirt and acid, electrolyte leakage and low battery posts. If battery posts or cable terminals are electrolyte level. corroded, cables should be cleaned separately with a soda 3. Fill cells to proper level with water. solution and wire brush. After cleaning and before 4. Top of battery should be clean and battery fastened installing clamps, apply a thin coating of Multipurpose securely in position. Lubricant (C-92-49588) to posts and cable clamps to help 5. For best results, when cleaning batteries, wash first with a retard corrosion. dilute ammonia or soda solution to neutralize any acid 9If battery has remained under-charged, check for loose present, then flush off with clean water. alternator drive belt, faulty alternator or voltage regulator. 5Keep vent plugs tight so that neutralizing solution does not 10. If battery has been using too much water, voltage regulator enter cell. setting may be too high, and regulator should be replaced 7. Hold-down device should be kept tight enough to prevent if setting is too high. 273R1 GENERAL INFORMATION - 1 B-11 VALVE ADJUSTMENT MERCRUISER 60-80-90 NOTE: Following procedure, performed with engine at normal operating temperature, should be completed ONLY if readjustment is required. 1. After engine has reached normal operating temperature, remove valve cover. 2. With engine running at idle, back off valve rocker arm nut until valve rocker arm starts to clatter. 3. Insert feeler gauge between rocker arm and valve stem, (int. .008, exh. .010) 4. Turn rocker arm nut down until light drag is felt on feeler gauge. This is correct valve lash. NOTE: Care must be taken to distinguish between intake valves and exhaust valves, as each requires different clearance. 5. Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4 to adjust rest of valves. 6. Install valve cover and new gasket if necessary. MERCRUISER 4, 6 and 8-CYLINDER HYDRAULIC LIFTERS NOTE: Following procedure, performed with engine running, should be performed ONLY if readjustment is required. 1. After engine has reached normal operating temperature, remove valve cover and install a new valve cover gasket on cylinder head to help prevent oil from running out. 2. With engine running at idle, back off valve rocker arm nut until valve rocker arm starts to clatter. 3. Turn rocker arm nut down slowly until clatter just stops. This is zero lash position. 4. Turn nut down additional turn and pause until engine runs smoothly. Repeat additional J4 turns, pausing each time, until nut has been turned down %-turn from zero lash position. NOTE: This 34-turn preload adjustment must be done slowly to allow lifter to adjust itself to prevent possibility of interference between inlet valve head and top of piston, which might result in internal damage and/or bent push rods. Noisy lifters should be replaced. 5. Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4, above, to adjust rest of valves. 6. Install valve cover(s) with new gasket(s), if necessary. MERCRUISER 888,215,225 and 255 No adjustment required. See "Engine Mechanical" Section 5. MECHANICAL LIFTERS MERCRUISER 8-CYLINDER Section 8) between rocker arm and valve stem. 4. Turn rocker arm nut down until light drag is felt on feeler Following procedure is performed with engine at normal gauge. This is correct valve lash. operating temperature. NOTE: Care must be taken to distinguish betw * intake 1. .After engine has reached normal operating temperature, valves and exhaust valves, as each requires tifferent remove valve cover and install valve cover with cut-out top clearance. to prevent oil from running out. 2. With engine running at idle, back off valve rocker arm nut 5. Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4 to adjust rest of valves. until valve rocker arm starts to clatter. 6. Install valve cover(s) and new gasket(s). 3. Insert feeler gauge of correct thickness ("Specifications" 7. Adjust carburetor. MANIFOLD 1. Inspect manifold for air. fuel and water leaks. manifold can drastically reduce engine performance. 2. Tighten all cap screws and nuts. A slight air leak in intake CRANKCASE VENTILATION 1. Remove hose(s) which runs from fitting on rocker arm 2. Clean hose(s) and fittings if necessary. cover to carburetors). 273R1 1 B-1 2- GENERAL. INFORMATION SECTION 1 - GENERAL INFORMATION PART C - LUBRICATION INDEX Page MerCruiser Lubricant and Maintenance Chart 1C-1 Stern Drive Lubricant Capacities 1C-2 Quicksilver Engine Cleaner 1C-3 How to Use 1C-3 Severly Carboned Engines 1C-3 Additional Cleaning Benefits 1C-3 Other Suggested Uses 1C-3 Lubricant Guns 1C-4 Other Marine Lubricants 1C-4 Storage Seal 1C-4 Marine Cleaner 1C-4 Corrosion and Rust Preventive 1C-4 Engine Lubrication 1C-5 Oil Selection 1C-5 Draining Engine Oil 1C-5 Filling Engine Crankcase 1C-5 Maintaining Oil Level 1C-5 Oil Consumption - 4 Cycle Engines 1C-6 Oil Filter 1C-7 Components 1C-7 Alternator 1C-7 Starting Motor 1C-7 Distributor Lubrication 1C-7 Stern Drive Lubrication 1C-8 Checking Lubricant Level 1C-9 MerCruiser "O " (60-80-90 HP) 1C-9 MerCruiser I-IA-IB-IC and IA-IB-IC E-Z Shift 1C-9 MerCruiser 120-140-160-165-888 1C-10 MerCruiser II 1C-10 MerCruiser 215-225II-TR and 255II-TR 1C-10 MerCruiser III 1C-11 Draining and Filling Drive Unit 1C-12 MerCruiser 60-80-90-120-140-160-165-88-H 1C-12 MerCruiser l-IA-IB-IC and IA-IB-IC E-Z Shift 1C-12 MerCruiser 215 - 225II-TR and 255IITR-III 1C-13 Points of Lubrication 1C-14 MerCruiser "O " (60-80-90 HP) 1C-14 MerCruiser l-thru-888 1C-14 MerCruiser 11-200-225 1C-15 MerCruiser 215-225II-TR and 255II-TR 1C-16 MerCruiser III 1C-16 MERCRUISER LUBRICANT and MAINTENANCE CHART Locations After 1st 20 Hrs. of Operation Every 50 Hours of Operation Every 100 Hours of Operation Once Each Year Starter Motor and Alternator None Required Change Engine Oil 1 1 Replace Oil Fi Iter • • Clean Oil Filler Cap • Clean Flame Arrestor • • Change Fuel Filters • Change Auxiliary Fuel Filter Element • Check Fuel System Lines and Connections for Leaks • • Check Battery Electrolyte Level • • Check All Electrical Connections • • Check Water Pump and Alternator Belts for Tension • • Check Cooling System Hoses and Connections for Leeks • • Check Power Steering Fluid Level 3 Check for Lcose, Damaged or Missing Parts • • Lubricate Throttle and Shift Linkage Pivot Points 1 Lubricate Breaker Lever Pivot* 1 Lubricate Distributor Cam* 8 Inspect Breaker Points* • Check Condition of Spark Plugs* • Tighten Engine Mount, Drive and Trim Cylinder Fasteners • • Check Engine Alignment • • Check Transmission Fluid Level 3 3 Clean Transmission Oil Strainer Screen • Check Condition of Oil Cooler Electrodes-r Every 6 Months Change Transmission Fluid 3 Check Power Tilt Pump Fluid Level § § Check Power Trim Pump Oil Level 1 1 Check Stern Drive Oil Level 4 4 Check Hydraulic Shift Unit Fluid Level 5 5 Lubricate D-ive Unit Upper and Lower Swivel Pins and Hinge Pins+ . . . 6 0 Lubricate Steering Cable and Steering Lever Housing+ 6 6 Change Stern Drive Unit Oi! 4 Check Condition of Trim Tab and Anodic Plate+ Every 30 Days Inspect Propeller for Possible Damage • • Lubricate Propeller Shaft Splines-? 7 Inspect Bel lows+ • • Inspect and Clean Exterior+ • Lubricate U-Joint Coupling Splines • • Lubricate Gimbal Bearing 6 6 9 9 Check Stern Drive Unit Water Pump and Impeller • 123456789 Use Formula 4 Quicksilver Oil (C-92-33137). Use Quicksilver Anti-Corrosion Grease (C-92-45134). Use Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type "A" , Suffix "A"). Use Quicksilver SUPER-DUTY Lubricant (C-92-52650). Use Non-Mineral Hydraulic Fluid SAE 70R1 or 70R3 (Brake Fluid). Use Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). Use Perfect Seal No. 4 (C-92-34227-1). Use suitable high-melting-point, non-bleeding grease. Use Universal Joint Lubricant (C-92-58229-I). * + § Does not apply to "Thunderbolt Ignition ". If unit « operated in salt water, require more frequent attention. Refer to "3". above, for white high pressure pump: to "1 'for blackmotor oil in white low pressure pump with booster valve. large reservoir pump: or use SAE 20U' M.S. NOTE: Complete list of maintenanceaverage operating conditions. Linderspeed operation, the inspection and is not applicable to all models. The chart, above, is severe operating conditions, continuous heavy dutymaintenance intervals should be shortened. based on or high 273R1 GENERAL INFORMATION - 1 B-1 STERN DRIVE LUBRICANT CAPACITIES Model Capacity MerCrui ser "60" MerCru iser "80"-"90 " MerCrui ser "1" Drive Shaft Housing MerCrui ser "1" Gear Housing MerCrui ser "IA-IB-IC" Drive Shaft Housing MerCrui ser "IA-IB-IC" Gear Housing MerCrui ser "120"-"140"-"160"-"165"-"888" MerCruiser "H"."200"-"225 " MerCruiser "II " with Heavy-Duty Gear Housing MerCrui ser "Hl"-"250"-"270"-"325"-"390" MerCruiser "215H"-"215E"-"225H-TR"-'255I1-TR" 18.322818823285% 74K> 4 Fl. Oz. Fl. Oz. Fl. Oz. Fl. Oz. Fl. Oz. Fl. Oz. Fl. Oz. Qts.* Qts.* Qts.+* Qts.+* * Approximately + Stern Drive Capacity Plus Reservoir Metric Conversion: 1 Fl. Oz. -.03 Liter 1 Qt. = .946 Liter NOTE: After filling a stern drive unit, that had been drained of all lubricant, the lubricant level must be reckeched after a "run-in" period of about one minute. This procedure assures that any air pockets, which may have .developed during filling, will be eliminated. Additional lubricant may have to be added after recheching to "toe-off" the unit. 1 A-2 - GENERAL INFORMATION 173R1 QUICKSILVER ENGINE CLEANER Quicksilver Engine Cleaner (C-9247949-12) is a laboratory and field-tested blend of chemicals designed to purge power- robbing deposits that accumulate in gasoline engines. It eliminates costly dismounting of the engine to remove carbon deposits caused by certain types of gasolines. Heavy carbon deposits in combustion chambers result in spark plug burning, pre-ignition and reduction of RPM. Quicksilver Engine Cleaner is effective in removing gum, varnish and carbon from the following: • Outboards • Chainsaws • Inboards • Power Lawn Mowers • Snowmobiles • Garden Tractors • Other 2 and 4-Cycle Engines 04947 Figure 1. Quicksilver Engine Cleaner (C-92-47949) HOW TO USE Run engine to normal operating temperature. Quicksilver Engine Cleaner is most effective when engine is warm. While operating engine at lowest RPM above stalling, sprav a sufficient quantity of Engine Cleaner into throat of one carburetor. Allow engine to run until it is again firing on all cylinders and repeat process for other sets of carburetors. Next, flood entire engine thru carburetors) and allow to stand for /4-hour. SEVERELY CARBONED ENGINES Tilt engine in horizontal position and close as many intake and exhaust ports as possible by turning flywheel so that pistons cover ports. Spray Engine Cleaner thru spark plug holes. Allow 273R1 engine to set for not more than a 6-to-8 hour period. After setting, place vertically and pull starter over several times to remove excess accumulation. Ready engine to run and repeat the regular cleaning process, as explained under "How to Use", preceding. ADDITIONAL CLEANING BENEFITS Mix one can of Quicksilver Engine Cleaner to one (1) gallon of fuel mixture. Run this special mixture until depleted, then follow normal application as outlined under "How to Use", preceding. OTHER SUGGESTED USES PENETRATING OIL Quicksilver Engine Cleaner has a tremendous penetrating and soaking action. Frees engines which are tight from rust and corrosion caused by submersion. PROTECTION for SUBMERGED ENGINES Emulsifies with water and gives protective coat to parts. Remove water from engine and spray Engine Cleaner thru spark plug holes. Turn engine over several times, allowing it to drain into crankcase. EXTERNAL CLEANER Cleans and removes external marine growth, grease, oil and dirt deposits from engines. Spray on and allow to set for ^2-hour. WINTERIZING It is good policy to clean the combustion chamber of engines with Quicksilver Engine Cleaner at time of winterizing, tuneup or (if engine has been in dealer storage) before delivery in spring. Apply Quicksilver Storage Seal (C-92-28143) for winterizing (after cleaning combustion chamber). Figure 2. Quicksilver Storage Seal (C-92-28143) GENERAL INFORMATION - 1 B-3 LUBRICANT GUNS Where Quicksilver Multipurpose Lubricant (C-9249588) is to Lube Gun facilitates application on all linkage and exterior be dispensed, the Pistoluber Grease Gun (C-91-37299) and moving surfaces on outboards, stern drives, power mowers, Lube Gun (C-91-30500) speed the job. chain saw parts and industrial units, where all-purpose lube is Squeeze-grip design of Pistoluber Gun permits one-hand specified by the manufacturer, and on boat trailer wheel operation. High pressure 12" (30cm) flexible hose attaches bearings. Also for application on Ride-Guide cables, shafts and easily to grease fittings on outboards and stern drives. Multipurpose tube screws directly on lightweight gun to other moving parts of marine accessories which require prevent possible contamination of lubricant. external lubrication. OTHER MARINE LUBRICANTS STORAGE SEAL and grease-marked walls, floors and shop equipment. Quicksilver Marine Cleaner (C-92-32182) is non-flammable and Protects interior metal surfaces during extended storage leaves no odor nor insoluble residue. periods. Quicksilver Storage Seal (C-92-28143) is applied thru carburetor and spark plug openings. CORROSION and RUST PREVENTIVE MARINE CLEANER Protects exterior metal surfaces from corrosion and rust during Removes dirt, grease and scum from all boat and motor use and in storage. Quicksilver Corrosion and Rust Preventive surfaces, as well as from power mowers, automobile engines, (C-92-29152) also is handy to nave around home workshops. 1 A-4 - GENERAL INFORMATION 173R1 ENGINE LUBRICATION OIL SELECTION Crankcase oil should be selected to give the best performance under the climatic and operating conditions prevalent in the area in which the engine is operated. An oil, which will provide adequate lubrication under high operating tmperatures, is required during warm or hot weather. An oil, which will permit easy starting at the lowest atmospheric temperature likely to be encountered, should be used during the colder months. When crankcase is drained and refilled, crankcase oil should be selected, not on basis of existing temperature at time of change, but on lowest temperature anticipated for period during which oil is to be used. We recommend Mercury Marine 4-CYCLE MARINE MOTOR OIL FORMULA 4R. If not available, use any good grade automotive oil of correct viscosity which has an A-P.I. classification of "MS"or "SD". The following chart shows the recommended viscosity for various temperature ranges and also the intervals at which the oil should be changed. DRAINING ENGINE OIL I II f ff th thth e ee low lowlow ® ®® s ss t tt anti antianti c cc ipate ipateipate d dd temperature temperaturetemperature , ,, durin durindurin g gg th thth e ee in inin - -terva tervaterva l ll i ii n nn whic whicwhic h hh th thth e ee oi oioi l ll wil wilwil l ll remai remairemai n nn i ii n nn th thth e ee crankcase crankcasecrankcase . .. i ii s ss j jj .. .... . .. th thth e ee fol folfol - -lowin lowinlowin g gg V VV i ii $ $$ - -cosit cositcosit y yy Oil OilOil s ss ar arar e ee recom recomrecom - -mended mendedmended . .. When to Chonge Crankcase Oil * A. P. I. Classification "MS"or "SD" Prevai ling Daytime Temperature Initiol Oil Change Interval Regular Oil Change Intervol 90°F (32°C) SAE 40* Above 90°F (32°C) 1st 60 days or 20 hours of operation wh i che ver occurs 1 st Every 100 hrs of operation and at end of boating seoson. 32°F (0°C) SAE 30 » Above 32°F (0°C) 1st 60 doys or 2C hours of operation, whichever occurs 1st Every 100 hrs of operation and at end of boating sea son. 0°F (-18°C) SAE 20W* Below 32°F (0°C) or during adverse operating con- di tions First 30 days or 20 hours of operation, whichever occurs first. Every 100 hrs o f operation ond at end of booting season 1. Operate engine until normal temperature is indicated. If the crankcase is drained when the engine is cold, some of the suspended foreign material clings to the sides of the oil pan and will not drain out readily. FILLING ENG NOTE: For engine crankcase capacity, refer to "Specifications" Section 8. Because of the effect the installed angle of engine has on oil level, the following procedure must be followed and boat must be at rest in water. IMPORTANT: SAE 20W, "MS" or "SD" 4-cycle motor oil, plus one pint (.47 liter) Quicksilver 4-Cyde Engine Oil Supplement (C-92-33365-1), must be used as initial oil fill. Engine oil supplement is a break-in additive which is 2. Remove dipstick and pump oil out of crankcase via dipstick tube. NOTE: An oil drain pump (C-91-34429) is available. CRANKCASE required during break-in period. A can of this additive is flipped with each new engine. Be sure that it is added to initial oil fill. 1. Pour oil into engine thru oil fill opening in rocker arm cover until level comes up to full mark on dipstick. 2. Start engine and run at idle speed for 5 minutes. 3. Stop engine and, after approximately 5 minutes, check level on dipstick. 4. Add quantity of oil required to bring level up to full mark. MAINTAINING OIL LEVEL Check oil level frequently and add oil when necessary. Since modern engines are equipped with hard, chrome-face piston rings, which exert a low pressure between rings and cylinder walls, it takes more time to "seat" the rings. Initially, this may result in some oil consumption, but it will be more than offset by a noticeable reduced rate of engine wear. This is the major reason that most current model engines can run for so many hours before re-ringing. In the past, new rings were required in engines with few hours on the engine. Every internal combustion engine should use a certain amount of oil to act as a lubricating and cooling agent during the break-in period. The initial rate of consumption will decrease until it becomes stabilized after about 100 hours operation. When checking oil level, 1) the engine should be warm, 2) the boat must be at rest in the water, 3) the dipstick pushed down to the stop, and 4) five minutes must be allowed for oil to drain back into the pan. A false reading may be obtained if these steps are not followed. 273R1 GENERALINFORMATION-1 B-5 The space between the "Full" and "Add" marks represent one quart. Add oil it' the level is at or below the "Add " mark. A proper oil level is an important factor in controlling oil consumption. An over-full crankcase allows oil to be splashed onto the cylinder walls by the reciprocating parts in greater quantities than the rings can control. The excess oil will be drawn into the combustion chamber and burned. OIL CONSUMPTION Every 4-cycle, internal combustion engine should use a certain amount of oil to act as a lubricating and cooling agent, particularly during break-in period. The initial rate of consumption gradually will decrease until it becomes stabilized after approximately 100 hours operation. A 4-cylinder engine can consume one quart of oil in 5 to 14 hours of wide-open throttle operation. Higher engine operating temperature in automotive engine cause even higher oil consumption. A break-in additive (Engine Oil Supplement, C-92-33365-1) is added to the initial fill of oil. Leave this oil in the engine for the recommended 20 hours or 60 days, whichever comes first. After the initial fill of oil has been drained, refill with Quicksilver Formula 4 or 4R oil, according to the oil specifications. Modern engines are equipped with hard, chrome-face piston rings, which exert a low pressure between ring and cylinder wall, and take more time to "seat". This may result in some oil consumption, but it will be more than offset by a noticeable reduced rate of engine wear. This is the reason that current model engines run for many hours before re-ringing is necessary. When an engine is used principally at slow speed conditions, considerable crankcase dilution occurs. A rapid lowering of the oil level may result when the boat is operated for some distance at high speed. The heat of high speed operation removes the dilution, which is a normal condition that should not be mistaken for excessive oil consumption. - 4 CYCLE ENGINES Proper oil level is important in controlling oil consumption. An over-full crankcase allows oil to be splashed by the reciprocating parts onto cylinder walls in greater quantities than the rings can control. Excess oil will be drawn into the combustion chamber and burned. In extreme cases, oil may become aerated, causing it to foam and be discharged from the filler neck. DO NOT over-fill the space between "Full" and "Add" marks (represents one quart). It is not necessary to add oil, unless level is at or below "Add " mark. When checking oil levels, engine should be warm and level. Allow about 5 minutes for oil to drain back from upper engine cavities. The dipstick must be pushed down to the stop. When an engine is used principally at slow speed conditions, considerable crankcase dilution occurs. A rapid lowering of the oil level may result when engine is operated for some distance at high speed. This is a normal condition caused by heat of high speed operation and should not be mistaken for excessive oil consumption. If it is possible to determine that oil usage is caused by a mechanical malfunction, inspect for leaks. Check rocker cover, oil pan and side cover gaskets and crankshaft seals. Also check that neither valve guides nor stems are worn excessively, nor that valve stem seals are mispositioned or damaged. 1 A-6 - GENERAL INFORMATION 173R1 OIL FILTER A full-flow oil filter filters all of the oil delivered by the oil pump and, for this reason, interval of cartridge change is very- important. Oil filter cartridge should be replaced after the first 20 hours and every 100 hours thereafter and at end of boating season. 1. Remove filter from cylinder block. 2. Coat sealing ring on new filter with engine oil and thread filter on block. Hand-tighten securely. 3. Fill crankcase as outlined under "Filling Engine Crankcase". 4. Check for oil leaks while engine is running. COMPONENTS ALTERNATOR Under normal operating conditions, alternator will not require lubrication. Refer to "Electrical System" Section 3, Part C - "Alternator" for bearing replacement and lubrication. STARTING MOTOR Starting motor end frames are equipped with oil-less bearings which do not require lubricant. DISTRIBUTOR LUBRICATION Distributor cap should be removed every 100 hours. Apply small amount of Delco-Remy Cam and Ball Bearing Lubricant or other suitable high-melting point, non-bleeding grease on distributor cam surface. Add a drop of light engine oil to breaker lever pivot. GENERAL INFORMATION - 1 B-7 273R1 STERN DRIVE LUBRICATION SERVICE 1. Clean entire unit thoroughly externally. 2. Inspect finish for damage or corrosion. Thoroughly clean damaged or corroded areas and apply matching paint (Quicksilver Spray Paints). 3. Check entire unit for loose, damaged or missing parts. Tighten or replace as required. 4. Remove propeller and inspect. Trim nicks and burrs with a file, being careful not to remove more metal than absolutely necessary. Inspect for cracks, damaged or bent condition. If condition is doubtful, refer to an Authorized Quicksilver Propeller Repair Station in your area. 5. Check propeller shaft for bent condition. Shaft should be replaced if it is found to be bent. 6. Check lubricant level as outlined, following. 7. Coat propeller shaft splines with Perfect Seal No. 4 (C-92-34227-1) and install propeller. (Figure 1) Figure 2. Stern Drive Unit Components - Right Side 8. Inspect universal joint bellows, shift cable bellows, water intake hose and exhaust tube for deterioration and damage. Service as required. Check all clamps for tightness. 9. Check reverse lock mechanism for free operation. Lubricate and service as required. 10. Check tilt or trim for proper operation and connections. (Figure 2) 11. Check and adjust engine alignment as outlined in Section 2. 12. Check and adjust shift cables as outlined in Section 2. 13. Lubricate all external lubrication points with Multipurpose Lubricant (C-9249588). 14. Check crank-up mechanism (if applicable) and make adjustments as necessary. 1 A-8 - GENERAL INFORMATION 173R1 CHECKING LUBRICANT LEVEL WARNING: DO NOT remove vent or filler plug when drive is hot from operation. Expanded hot gear lubricant would be released thru plug hole. Check only when stern drive unit is cool. CAUTION: DO NOT use regular automotive grease in stern drive unit. Use only Quicksilver Super-Duty Gear Lubricant (C-92-56101-1, 120 lb. drum; C-92-56565-1, 37 lb. pail; C-92-52655-12, cans; C-92-52650-12, tubes) in all MerCruiser stern drive units. Lubricant should be changed once every 100 hours of operation, or once each season. MERCRUISER "O" (60-80-90HP) NOTE: Upper drive shaft housing gear chamber and lower unit gear chamber are connected. 1. Remove "Oil Vent" plug and gasket, located on side of drive shaft housing. (Figure 1) Lubricant must be even with bottom edge of threaded "Oil Vent" hole when unit is level. 2. Add Super-Duty Gear Lubricant, if level is down. Remove "Oil Fill" plug and gasket (located on opposite side of drive shaft housing). Add lubricant thru "Fill" hole until oil appears at "Vent" hole. NOTE: Only a small amount of lubricant should be added thru drive shaft housing "Fill" hole. If drive unit is empty, drive must be filled as shown in "Draining and Filling Drive Unit",following. 3. Install "Oil Vent" and "Oil Fill" plugs with new seal gaskets. Figure 1. Oil Vent Plug in Upper Gear Chamber MERCRUISER l-IA-IB-IC and IA-IB-IC E-Z Shift NOTE: Upper drive shaft housing gear chamber and lower unit gear chamber are SEPARATE oil chambers. 173R1 Upper Gear Chamber 1. Remove "Oil Vent" plug and gasket,located on side of drive shaft housing. (Figure 2) Lubricant must be even with bottom edge of threaded "Oil Vent" hole when unit is level. 2. Add Super-Duty Gear Lubricant, if level is down. Remove "Oil Fill" plug and gasket (located on opposite side of drive shaft housing). Add lubricant thru "Fill" hole until oil appears at "Vent" hole. 3. Install "Oil Vent" and "Oil Fill" plugs with new seal gaskets. Figure 2. Oil Vent Plug in Upper Gear Chamber Lower Gear Chamber 1. Remove "Oil Vent" plug and gasket located on side of gear housing just above anti-cavitation plate. (Figure 3) Lubricant must be even with bottom edge of threaded oil "Vent" hole when unit is level. 2. Add Super-Duty Gear Lubricant, if level is down. Remove "Oil Fill" plug and gasket (located on lower side of gear housing). (Figure 3) Add lubricant thru "Fill" hole until oil appears at "'Vent" hole. Figure 3. Oil Vent and Oil Fill Hole in Lower Gear Chamber GENERAL ' N FORMATION - 1A-9 3. Install "Oil Vent" and "Oil Fill" plugs with new seal gaskets. MERCRUiSER 120-140-160-165-888 NOTE: Upper drive shaft housing gear chamber and lower unit gear chamber are connected. 1. Remove "Oil Vent" plug and gasket on side of drive shaft housing. (Figure 4) Lubricant must be even with bottom edge of threaded "Oil Vent" hole when unit is level. 2. Add Super-Duty Gear Lubricant, if level is down. Remove "Oil Fill" hole plug and gasket (located on lower side of gear housing). (Figure 5) Add lubricant thru "Fill" hole until oil appears at "Vent" hole in drive shaft housing. NOTE: Some 120-140-160-165 Stern Drive units have an "Oil Fill" hole on opposite side of drive shaft housing level, if the upper gear chamber oil level is maintained according to above instructions. MERCRUISER II 1. Remove lubricant filler plug and gasket (located in center of rear cover). (Figure 6) Lubricant must be even with bottom edge of threaded hole. 2. Add Super-Duty Gear Lubricant thru fill hole, if oil level is down. NOTE: Only a small amount of lubricant should be added thru drive shaft housing "Fill" hole. If drive unit is empty, drive must be filled as shown in "Draining and Filling Drive Unitfolio wing. 3. Install filler plug and new seal gasket. from "Oil Vent" hole. This "Fill" hole can be used to add lubricant to drive unit. Only small amounts of lubricant should be added thru drive shaft housing "Fill" hole. If drive unit is empty, drive must be. filled as in Paragraph 2, immediately preceding 3. Install "Oil Vent" and "Oil Fill" plugs with new seal gaskets. NOTE: Since the 2 oil chambers are inter-connected, the lower gear housing will automatically maintain a proper oil Figure 5. Fill Hole in Lower Gear Chamber 1 A-10 - GENERAL INFORMATION Figure 6. MerCruiserIEFiller Plug MERCRUISER 215-225II-TR and 255H-TR Check oil level frequently with dipstick (located on inner transom plate) when unit is cool. (Figure 7) If oil level is below mark on dipstick, add oil to dipstick mark thru dipstick tube. NOTE: Only a small amount of lubricant should be added thru reservoir dipstick tube. If reservoir is empty, drive unit must be filled as shown in "Draining and Filling Drive Unit", following. Figure 7. Checking Stern Drive Unit Oil Level 173R1 MERCRUISER EI Oil level of stern drive unit should be checked frequently and oil added if required. Check oil level in sight glass (located on inner transom plate) when unit is cool. (Figure 8) If oil level is not visible in sight glass, remove oil fill plug (located in oil reservoir) and add oil, as required, to bring level up to line on sight glass. NOTE: Only a small amount of lubricant should be added thru oil reservoir fill plug. If reservoir is empty, drive unit must be filled as shown in "Draining and Filling Drive Unit", following. Figure 8. Sight Glass and Oil Fill Plug 273R1 GENERAL INFORMATION -1 B-11 DRAINING and FILLING DRIVE UNIT WARNING: DO NOT remove vent or filler plug when drive is hot from operation. Expanded hot gear lubricant would be released thru plug hole. Check only when stern drive unit is cool. CAUTION: DO NOT use regular automotive grease in stern drive unit. Use onlv Quicksilver Super-Dutv Gear Lubricant (C-92-56101-1. 120 lb. drum: C-92-56565-1, 37 lb. pail: C-92-52655-12, cans; C-92-52650-12, tubes) in all MerCruiser stern drive units. Lubricant should be changed once every 100 hours of operation or once each season. Do not attempt to fill drive unit with lubricant in any other manner than that described immediately following. Any other method may- result in damage caused by lack of lubrication. MERCRUISER 60-80-90-120-140-160-165-888-11 NOTE: Upper drive shaft housing gear chamber and lower unit gear chamber are connected. 03112 Figure 1. Drain Plug in Gear Housing Ul I Uu Figure 2. Oil Vent Plug in Upper Gear Chamber 1 A-12 - GENERAL INFORMATION 1. Drain stern drive unit by removing drain plug from lower end of gear housing on left side (Figure 1) and vent plug on upper gear chamber. (Figure 2) 2. To refill drive unit, insert lubricant tube into drain plug hole in lower unit (Figure 1) and inject lubricant until excess fluid starts to flow out of air vent hole in upper drive shaft housing. (Figure 2) 3. Install air vent and drain plugs, taking special care that washer is in place under head of each so water will not leak past threads into gear housing. MERCRUISER l-IA-IB-SC and IA-IB-IC E-Z SHIFT NOTE: Upper drive shaft housing gear chamber and lower unit gear chamber are SEPARATE oil chambers. Upper Gear Chamber 1. To drain upper gear chamber, remove drive unit top cover. (Figure 3) Use a pump to remove lubricant. If drive unit has been removed from transom, unit can be tipped to drain lubricant. 2. Remove "Oil Fill" and "Oil Vent" plugs and gaskets (located on right and left sides of drive shaft housing). (Figure 3) Install top cover and "0 " ring. Torque screws to specifications. (Refer to Section 8 "Specifications".) 3. Insert lubricant tube into filler plug hole and inject lubricant until excess fluid starts to flow out of "Oil Vent" screw hole with unit level. 4. Install "Oil Vent" and "Oil Fill" plugs and new seal washers. Figure 3. "Oil Vent" Plug and Top Cover Lower Gear Chamber 1. To drain gear housing, remove filler (drain) plug and gasket from lower end of gear housing on leftside (Figure 4) and oil vent plug and gasket (located just above anti-cavitation plate). (Figure 4) 2. To fill gear housing, insert lubricant tube into filler plug hole and inject lubricant until excess fluid starts to flow out of oil vent plug hole when unit is level. (Figure 4) 3. Install oil vent and oil fill plugs and new seal washers. 173R1 MERCRUISER 215-225ET-TR and 255E-TR-HI NOTE: To drain drive unit completely, drive must be installed in bell housing. (Figure 5) 1. Remove oil fill and "Oil Vent" plugs (Figure 5) and allow oil to drain completely. 2. To fill drive unit, install drive shaft housing "Oil Vent" plug. Drive unit must be filled with a hand-type lubricant pump thru gear housing oil fill hole. Unit must be filled until lubricant level meets line on sight glass (Figure 6) or dipstick (Figure 7) (located on inner transom plate reservoir). 3. After filling, thread oil fill plug (with new gasket under head) into gear housing and tighten securely. Figure 4. Oil Vent and Oil Fill Hole in Lower Gear Chamber 05190 Figure 5. Oil Fill and "Oil Vent" Plugs 273R1 GENERAL INFORMATION • 1C-1 3 POINTS of LUBRICATION MERCRUISER "0 " (60-80-90 HP) Every 50 hours of operation, or at least once a season, lubricate the various MerCruiser "0 " Stern Drive components with Quicksilver Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588) and Lubricant Gun (C-91-37299) thru grease fittings: Figure 1. Lubrication Point, Inside of Boat, Right Side INSIDE BOAT (Figures 1-2) 1. Ride-Guide steering cable end next to hand nut. (A) 2. Pivot socket of steering arm. (B) 3. Exposed cable traversing thru cable guide tube. (C) Figure 2. Lubrication Points, Inside of Boat, Left Side OUTSIDE BOAT (Figure 3f 1. Gimbal housing upper pivot pin. 2. All pivot points on bell housing shift shaft with Anti- Corrosio n G rease (C-92 -15134). STERN DRIVE LUBRICANT Every 50 hours of operation, check lubricant ievei of the MerCruiser "0 " Stern Drive Unit. (NOTE: Upper drive shaft housing gear chamber and lower unit gear chamber arc connected.) If filling is required, use on!\ Super-Dut\ Q;:iek 1 A-14 - GENERAL INFORMATION Figure 3. Outside Lubrication and Oil Fill Plug silver Gear Lubricant (C-92-52650). Change lubricant every 100 hours of operation or at least once each season. The MerCruiser Stern Drive Unit should be checked before initial operation to be certain that lubricant is at correct level. MERCRUISER l-thru-888 Every 50 hours of operation, or at least once a season, lubricate the various MerCruiser I Stern Drive components with Quicksilver Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588) and Lubricant Gun (C-91-37299) thru grease fittings: 1. Inside boat location a. Ride-Guide steering cable end next to hand nut. (A) b. Sock et of pivot of steering arm. (B) c. Exposed shaft of cable traversing thru cable guide tube. (C) 2. Outside of boat a. Gimbal housing upper and lower pivot pin. (Figure 4 or 5) Figure 4. Points of Lubrication, Early Models 173R1 0663 4 0663 4 Figure 6. Lubricating Tilt pins Figure 5. Points of Lubrication, Late Models b. Tilt pins on both sides of gimbal ring. (Figure 4 or 5) NOTE: On early models, tapered end of Lubricant Gun (C-91-30500) fits counterbore. (Figure 3) No fitting is used; however, if difficulty is encountered in forcing grease into tilt pin (Figure 6), install fitting B-22-37668 in tilt pin. Grease fitting B-22-37668 must be removed after lubrication. c. Gimbal bearing. 3. Lubricate universal joint bearings with Universal Joint Lubricant (C-92-58229-1). MERCRUISER H-200-225 Every 50 hours of operation, or at least once a season, lubricate the various MerCruiser 11-200-225 Stern Drive component s with Quicksilver Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588) and Lubricate Gun (C-91-30500) thru grease fittings: 1. Inside boat location (Figure 7) a. Ride-Guide steering cable end next to hand nut b. Inner transom mounting plate 1) Left side at base of crank unit 2) Right side top for crank ring gear c. Inside steering lever housing for steering lever shaft 2. Outside of boat (Figure 8 or 9) a. Gimbal housing upper and lower pivot pin b. Tilt pins on both sides of gimbal housing Figure 9. Late Gimbal Housing Lubrication GENERAL ' N FORMATION - 1A-15 173R1 Figure 7. Inside Lube Locations Figure 8. Outside Lube Locations MERCRUISER 215-225II-TR and 255IL-TR Lubricate drive unit upper and lower pivot pin thru grease fitting with Qu '.silver Anti-Corrosion Grease (C-9245134A1) and Lubricant Gun (C-91 -37299). . Figure 10. Points of Lubrication - 215-225IT-TR and 255ILTR MANUAL STEERING 1. Lubricate steering cable with a small amount of Quicksilver Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588) thru grease fitting. ("A"i n Figure 11) 2. Apply a light coat of grease to the exposed portion of the steering cable ("B" in Figure 11) and to steering lever pivot points ("C" in Figure 11). 3. Do not over-lubricate cable. POWER STEERING 1. Lubricate steering cable with a small amount of Quicksilver Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92^9588) thru grease fitting. ("A " in Figure 12) Steering Cable -B" 04583 Figure 11. Steering Cable Lubrication Points 2. Apply a light coat of grease to the exposed portion of the Power Steering cable ("B" in Figure 12), to steering lever pivot points ("C" in Figure 12) and to extension rod ("D " in Figure 12). 3. Do not over-lubricate cable. NOTE: If a dual tie bar is installed, also lubricate its pivot points. Figure 14. Power Steering Lubrication 1 A-16 - GENERAL INFORMATION Figure 12. Power Steering Lubrication MERCRUISER Hi- Lubricate drive unit upper pivot pin thru grease fitting with Quicksilver Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588) and Lubricant Gun (C-91-37299). MANUAL STEERING Lubricate steering cable with Quicksilver Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588) thru grease fitting. Do not over-lubricate cable. Only a small amount of grease need be injected thru fitting. (Figure 13) Also apply a coating of grease to the exposed portion of steering cable. Figure 13. Steering Cable Lubrication Points POWER STEERING 1. Lubricate steering cable wit it a small amount of Quicksilver Multipurpose Lubricant (C-9249588) thru grease fitting- ("A " in Figure 14) 2. Apply a light coat of grease to the exposed portion of the Power Steering cable ("B'" in Figure 14) and to steering lever pivot points ("C" in Figure 14). 3. Do riot over-lubricate cable. NOTE: If a dual tie bar is installed, also lubricate its pivot points. 173R1 SECTION 2 MERCRUISER REMOVAL-INSTALLATIONALIGNMENT TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Page MerCruiser "60" Engine Removal 2A-1 MerCruiser "80" and "90" Engine Removal 2A-2 Engine installation 2A-3 Stern Drive Installation 2A-5 Gimbal Housing Installation 2A-6 Ride-Guide Attachment 2A-6 Shift Cable Attachment 2A-7 Throttle Cable Attachment 2A-8 Tilt and Shock Cylinder Installation 2A-9 MerCruiser I Engine Removal 2B-1 Engine Installation and Alignment 2B-2 Installing Stern Drive Unit 2B-4 Transom Plate Installation 2B-6 Hydraulic Pump Hose Routing 2B-7 Ride-Guide Steering Cable Attachments 2B-8 Adjusting Steering 2B-8 Attaching Throttle Cable - 4 and 6-Cyl. Engines 2B-9 Install Hydraulic Cylinders Stern Drive Units Equipped with Shock Absorbers 2B-10 Installing Tilt or Trim Combination 2B-11 Shift Cable Dimensions - All MerCruiser I 2B-12 Shift Cable Installation - All MerCruiser I 2B-12 Attaching and Adjusting Shift Cable 2B-13 MerCruiser II Engine Removal (Non-Transom Mounted Type) . . .2C-1 MerCruiser II Stern Drive Installation 2C-3 MerCruiser 200-225 Stern Drive Installation 2C-4 Transom Plate Installation 2C-5 Shift Cable Installation and Adjustment 2C-6 Throttle Control Cable Attachment 2C-13 Ride-Guide Steering 2C-14 Ride-Guide Cable Measurement 2C-14 MerCruiser II (Transom Mounted) Engine Removal 2D-1 Engine Installation and Alignment 2D-1 MerCruiser 200-225 Stern Drive Installation 2D-3 Transom Plate Installation 2D-3 Shift Cable Installation and Adjustment 2D-4 Throttle Control Cable Attachment 2D-9 MerCruiser III Engine Removal 2E-1 Engine Installation and Alignment 2E-1 Installing Stern Drive Unit 2E-3 Transom Plate Installation 2E-3 Throttle and Shift Cable Installation 2E-4 Installing Combination Trim and Shock Absorbers 2E-5 Power Trim Hose and Reverse Lock Valve 2E-6 Ride-Guide Steering Installation 2E-6 MerCruiser 215-H Engine Removal 2F-1 Engine Installation and Alignment 2F-1 Installing Stern Drive Unit 2F-3 Transom Plate Installation 2F-4 Throttle Cable Installation 2F-5 Shift Cable Installation 2F-5 Installing Combination Trim and Shock Absorbers 2F-6 Power Trim Hose Connections 2F-6 Ride-Guide Steering Installation 2F-7 Adjusting Ride-Guide Steering 2F-7 Electrical Wiring 2F-7 Exhaust System Installation 2F-8 MerCruiser 215-E Engine Removal 2G-1 Engine Installation and Alignment 2G-1 Installing Stern Drive Unit 2G-3 MerCruiser 215-E Clutch Plate Realignment 2G-4 Installing Unit Shifter Shaft 2G-5 Transom Plate Installation 2G-6 Exhaust System Installation 2G-7 Throttle Cable Installation 2G-8 Power Trim Hose Connections 2G-8 Shift Control Wiring Connections 2G-8 Installing Combination Trim and Shock Cylinders 2G-9 Ride-Guide Steering Installation 2G-10 Adjusting Ride-Guide Steering 2G-10 Adjusting Power Steering 2G-10 Electrical Wiring 2G-10 MerCruiser "888" Engine 2H-1 Transom Plate Installation 2H-2 Mounting Hydraulic Pump 2H-4 Installing Stern Drive Unit 2H-5 Throttle Cable Installation 2H-6 Installing Combination Trim and Shock Cylinders 2H-9 Ride-Guide Steering Installation 2H-9 Adjusting Ride-Guide Steering 2H-10 SECTION 2 - REMOVAL, INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT PART A - MERCRUISER 60-80-90 STERN DRIVE INDEX Page MerCruiser "60 " Engine Removal 2A-1 MerCruiser "80 " and "90 " Engine Removal 2A-2 Engine Installation 2A-3 Stern Drive Installation 2 A-5 Gimbal Housing Installation 2A-6 Ride-Guide Attachment 2A-6 Shift Cable Attachment 2A-7 Throttle Cable Attachment 2A-8 Tilt and Shock Cylinder Installation 2A-9 MERCRUISER "60 " ENGINE REMOVAL NOTE: Engine components are secured with, standard l/.S. nuts and screws, except where noted. When metric tools are required, sizes will be indicated. 1. Disconnect battery cables from battery and remove instrument panel harness connector plug from engine harness receptacle. 2. Disconnect throttle and shift control cables. 3. Disconnect Ride-Guide steering cable from steering rod. 4. Loosen locknut and remove steering rod from steering clevis. 5. Remove cotter pin and washer and remove clevis pin and clevis from steering arm. 6. Disconnect tilt switch leads from ignition coil and condenser mounting bracket. (Figure 1) Figure 1. Tilt Switch Leads 7. Remove hydraulic shift unit from mounting bracket and shift lever. DO NOT remove hydraulic lines from hydraulic shift unit. (Figure 2) Figure 2. Hydraulic Shift Unit 8. Install suitable sling thru lifting eyes on engine and secure to overhead hoist. 9. Remove nuts and washers from lower transom plate mounting screws and remove screws. (Figure 3) Figure 3. Bottom Mounting Bolts 10. Remove manual tilt-up cable from top cover of stern drive unit. 11. Remove nuts and washers from upper transom mounting screws. Remove screws and manual crank-up unit from transom. (Figure 4) Figure 4. Manual Tilt-Up Unit 12. Before removing engine, check again that no wires, lines, etc , are attached to engine. 13. Pull engine forward approx. 4" (101.4mm). This will permit inner transom plate to cisengage from stern drive unit. Engine then may be lifted straight up. 14. Cooling system and crankcase may be drained at this time. 15. Remove oil filter, ignition coil and fuel pump and install engine on engine stand. NOTE: Ignition coil is secured with 2 screws, one 14mm hex-headed screw and one 10mm hex-headed screw. Fuel pump is secured with a 12mm nut and a 12mm screw. 1 A-2 - REMOVAL - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT 670 MERCRUISER "80" and "90" ENGINE REMOVAL NOTE: Engine components are secured with standard U.S. nuts and screws, except where noted. When metric tools are required, sizes will be indicated. 1. Disconnect battery cables from battery and remove instrument panel harness connector plug from engine harness receptacle. 2. Disconnect fuel line, throttle and shift control cables. 3. Disconnect Ride-Guide steering cable from steering rod. 4. Loosen locknut and remove steering rod from steering clevis. 5. Remove cotter pin and washer and remove clevis pin and clevis from steering arm. 6. Disconnect tilt switch leads from engine harness and at starter solenoid. (Figure 1) 8. Install suitable sling thru lifting eves on engine and secure to overhead hoist. 9. Remove nuts and washers from lower transom plate mounting screws and remove screws. (Figure 3) Figure 3. Bottom Mounting Bolts 10. Remove manual tilt-up cable from top cover of stern drive unit. 11. Remove nuts and washers from upper transom mount!);;/ screws. Remove screws and manual crank-up unit fron transom. (Figure 4) Figure 1. Tilt Switch Leads 7. Remove hydraulic shift unit from mounting bracket and shift lever. DO.NOT remove hydraulic lines from hydraulic shift unit. (Figure 2) Figure 4. Manual Tilt-Up Unit 12. Before removing engine, check again that no wires, lines, etc, are attached to engine. 13. Pull engine forward approx. 4" (10cm). This will permit inner transom plate to disengage from stern drive unit. Engine then may be lifted straight up. 14. Cooling svstem and crankcase mav be drained at this time. 15. Remove oil filter, ignition coil, oil sending unit and fuel pump and install engine on engine stand. NOTE: Fuel pump is secured with 12mm nuts and 12mm pal nuts. Mounting Plate Screrw A Figure 2. Hydraulic Shift Unit 2 A-2 - REMOVAL - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT ENGINE INSTALLATION NOTE: Prior to engine installation, gimbal housing must be installed. 1. Apply a liberal coat of New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588) to water tube (located on gimbal housing) and guide bar and exhaust tube (located on inner transom plate). (Figure 1) 2. Lift engine with an overhead hoist, using suitable sling and lifting eyes on engine. 3. Align exhaust tube and guide bar on inner transom plate with guide bar groove and exhaust tube opening on gimbal housing. Guide engine inio position, while watching water tube on gimbal housing, to be sure that tube enters hole in inner transom plate. Figure 2. Manual Tilt Unit Installed IMPORTANT: Exercise care while lining up engine, since rocking the engine from side-to side can damage water tube seal which is located in the innertransom plate. If this seal is damaged, water will leak around the inner transom plate, and replacement of the seal will require removing the engine. Insert manual tilt unit (Figure 2) or hydraulic inlet cover (Figure 3) and hoses thru transom opening from Figure 1. Typical Inner Transom Plate Guide and Exhaust Tube outside of boat and position on transom. It may be necessary to move the hydraulic shift unit mounting plate up or down to provide clearance for tilt unit. (Figure 4) NOTE: MerCruiser "60" and "80" Power Tilt hose is routed to port side. 6. Place washers on 2 carriage bolts, as shown in Figure 5 or 6, as required, and insert bolts from outside of boat thru tilt unit, transom and inner transom plate. Figure 3. Installing Inlet Cover and Hoses 0477 1 Figure 4. Hydraulic Power Tilt Hose Connections NOTE: Earlier carriage bolts ONLY require sealing washer. Care should be exercised to keep transom seal in position when tightening bolts. 3 A-2 - REMOVAL - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT 670 som) plate with cap screw, spacer, washers and nut. (Figure 8 or 9) 13. Fasten hydraulic shift unit piston to shift lever mounting stud with spacer, washer and elastic stop nut. DO NOT tighten nut securely, as piston must pivot freelv on stud. Figure 5. Figure 6. Carriage Bolt Washer Locations 7. Install a flat washer and elastic stop nut on each bolt and torque to 20-25 ft.lbs. (2.77-3.46mkg). Hold bolt head with a 5/16" alien wrench while torquing. 8. Place washers on 2 carriage bolts, as shown in Figure 5 or 6, as required, and insert bolts from outside of boat thru bottom holes of gimbal housing, transom and inner transom plate. 9. Install a flat washer and elastic stop nut on each bolt and torque to 20-25 ft.lbs. (Figure 7) Hold bolt head with a 5/16" alien wrench while torquing. 14. .Mount hydraulic tilt hose to transom plate with large metal clip, screw and washer. (Figure 4) 15. Remove cap from pump hydraulic hose and fitting and quickly connect to prevent loss of oil. NOTE: Engine alignment is not necessary for this type engine mounting. Figure 7. Bottom Mounting Bolts 10. Relieve tension on overhead hoist and remove sling from engine. 11. Tighten screws which secure hydraulic shift unit mounting plate to inner transom plate of "60 " and "80" models only. 12. Place hydraulic shift unit piston on shift lever stud and position hydraulic shift unit to mounting (or tran03571 Figure 8. Hydraulic Shift Unit Installed MerCruiser "60" and "80" Figure 9. Hydraulic Shift Unit installed - MerCruiser "90" 670 4 A-2 - REMOVAL - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT 670 STERN DRIVE INSTALLATION 1. Lubricate drive shaft housing pilot and drive shaft splines with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). (Figure 1) 2. Position intermediate shift shaft coupler (located in drive unit) straight ahead, as shown in Figure 1. NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate propeller shaft to position coupler. Figure 2. Bell Housing Prepared for Drive Unit Installation Figure 1. Drive Unit Prepared for Installation 3. Check position of water shutter. Be sure that tabs on shutter are in recesses in drive shaft housing. (Figure 1) 4. Lubricate inside surfaces of bell housing bore and upper shift shaft coupler with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). (Figure 2) 5. Place drive shaft housing to bell housing gasket in position on bel. housing. (Figure 2) 6. Position upper shift shaft coupler (located in bell housing) straight ahead, as shown in Figure 2, by moving shift lever (located inside boat) to the left (port) as far as lever will move. CAUTION: If upper and intermediate shift shaft couplers are not positioned as outlined in preceding Steps 2 and 6, bell housing and couplers will be damaged when installing drive unit. 7. Insert stern drive unit into bell housing, guiding drive shaft thru gimbal housing bearing into engine coupling. If drive shaft splines do not align with engine coupling splines, rotate propeller shaft counterclockwise until drive unit can be pushed into position. 8. Fasten drive shaft housing to bell housing with 4 elastic stop nuts and flat washers. Tighten nuts evenly and torque to 40 ft. lbs. (5.3m'kg). 9. Attach manual t:it-up cable to top cover of stern drive unit (Figure 3) on "60" and "80" models. This step Shift Shaft Coupler does not apply to units with Power Tilt. 10. Install tilt adjustment stud in gimba: ring (Figure 4) and tilt cylinders, as required. 5 A-2 - REMOVAL - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT 670 GIMBAL HOUSING INSTALLATION IMPORTANT: MerCruiser "60", "80" & "90" Stern Drive Units are designed for MerCruiser "60", "80" and "90" 4-cylinder engines which have standard automotive engine rotation (counterclockwise when viewing engine flywheel from the rear). All drive units are right hand propeller rotation. 1. Insert tilt switch leads and hydraulic shift unit thru large opening in transom. (Figure 5) 2. Position gimbal housing on transom and, while holding housing, position supporting plate on inside of transom. Insert hex head screws with lockvvashers thru supporting plate and transom. Thread screws into gimbal housing. (Figure 5) 3. Thread hex head screws with lockwashers and flat washers thru transom into gimbal housing. (Figure 5) IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to drive screws thru transom, as threads in gimbal housing will be damaged. 4. Tighten hex head screws evenly and torque to 20 ft. lbs. (2.76mkg). RIDE-GUIDE 1. Lubricate inside of cable guide tube with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-9249588). 2. Insert cable end thru tube and thread large hand- type fastening nut on tube securely. 3. Position steering rod clevis on stern drive steering arm and install clevis pin, washer and cotter pin. (Figure 1) 4. Thread steering rod into clevis and assemble higure 1. Typical Cable cable on steering rod, as Steering Rod shown in Figure 2. Tight- nut securely, then back off li-turn. 5. Turn steering wheel until gimbal ring is centered in gimbal housing. If. at this point, steering wheel is Figure 5. Typical Gimbal Housing Installed ATTACHMENT not centered, remove steering rod from cable and adjust steering rod in clevis to center steering wheel. Rein stall steering rod, as outlined in Step 4, after complet ing adjustment, and tighten locknut securely against clevis. 670 6 A-2 - REMOVAL - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT SHIFT CABLE ATTACHMENT 1. Move remote control handle to i'u!l forward. 2. Pull shift lever out as far as it will go. This shifts stern drive unit into forward gear. While shifting, turn propeller shaft counterclockwise until shaft stops (to ensure full clutch engagement). 3. Loosen hydraulic shift unit piston anchor stud, move anchor stud tc bottom of shift lever slot and tighten nut. Place remote control shift cable end guide on shift lever. (Figure 3 or 4) Figure 3. Adjusting Remote Control Shift Cable - MerCruiser "60" and "80" 4. Pull outer shift cable away from cable guide, as far as possible, and adjust brass barrel on remote control shift cable to align with mounting stuc on transom plate anchor point. (Figure 3) 5. Fasten brass barrel with spacer, washers and nut. Tighten nut securely. For Power Tilt, secure hydraulic hose with nygrip clamp and "D " washer. 6. Disconnect remote control shift cable end guide from shift lever. 7. Move remote control handle to full reverse. 8. Manually push shift lever in as far as it will go. This shifts stem drive unit into reverse. While shifting, rotate propeller shaft clockwise until shaft stops, to assure full clutch engagement. 9. Loosen hydraulic shift unit piston anchor stud and move up slot in shaft lever until cable end guide can be reinstalled. (Figure 5 or 6) 10. Securely tighten nut on stud which fastens hydraulic shift unit piston to shift lever. Brass Barrel Figure 4. Adjusting Remote Figure 5. Control Shift Cable -Reverse Adjustment - MerCruiser "90" MerCruiser "60" and "80" Figure 6. Reverse Adjustment - MerCruiser "90" 11. Install hydraulic shift tubes on MerCruiser "60 " shift sender unit (mounted on inner transom plate assembly) by attaching long hydraulic tube to left ip.let (looking aft from inside boat), \ttach short tube to right inlet. 12. Attach short tube to upper inlet of shift receiver (located in bell housing) and long tube lo lower inlet of shift receiver. 670 7 A-2 - REMOVAL - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT THROTTLE CABLE ATTACHMENT 1. Refer to installation instructions, which are shipped with remote control, when installing remote control and cables. 2. Fasten throttle cable to side and transom of boat with clips to form a gradual bend leading to anchor stud and throttle arm. 3. Place remote control handle in neutral and neutral warmup lever down before attaching cable end guide or brass barrel to attaching points. 4. Grasp throttle caba behind brass barrel and push in on cable end guide. Adjust brass barrel to align with attaching points. Place flat washer, sleeve and barrel on stud. Place flat washer and stop nut on stud and tighten nut securely . (Figures 7-8-9-10-11) Figure 9. Throttle Cable Installed - MerCruiser "80" (Carburetor with Reverse Kit) Figure 8. Throttle Cable Installed - Early MerCiuiser "80" 5. Check that throttle valves are fully open when remote control handle is all the way forward. Return control handle to neutral and check for fully-closed throttle valves. 6. Set engine idle RPM in forward gear bv adjusting idle stop screw on carburetor. Turn screw in to increase RPM; back screw out to decrease RPM. Figure 11. Throttle Cable Installed - MerCruiser "90" 04409 Figure 10. Throttle Cable Installed - MerCruiser "80" 670 8 A-2 - REMOVAL- INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT TILT and SHOCK CYLINDER INSTALLATION 1. Insert aft anchor pin in drive shaft housing and assemble parts as shown in Figure 1 or 2. 2. Insert forward anchor pin in gimbal ring. 3. Place parts required on each side of anchor pin. (Figure 3 or 4) Figure 3. Installing Forward Anchor Pin Forward Anchor Pin Figure 4. Installing Forward Anchor Pin - Early Models Figure 2. Installing Aft Anchor Pin - Early Models Figure 5. Cylinders Installed 670 9 A-2 - REMOVAL - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT 670 pins. NOTE: facing6. Installpins. NOTE: facing6. Install 4. Place cylinders in position on forward and aft anchor Cylinders must be installed with filler plug up. (Figures 5 or 6) 5. Place parts required on forward and aft anchor pins. (Figure 5 or 6) nuts and tighten securely. (Figure 5 or 6) 7. This completes cylinder installation. Figure 6. Cylinder Installed - Early Model 10 A-2 - REMOVAL - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT SECTION 2 - REMOVAL, INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT PART B - ALL MERCRUISER I TYPE STERN DRIVES INDEX Page MerCruiser I Engine Removal 2B-1 Engine Installation and Alignment 2B-2 Installing Stern Drive Unit 2B-4 Correct Sealing Gasket 2B-5 MerCruiser I 2B-5 MerCruiser IA-IB-IC 2B-6 Transom Plate Installation 2B-6 Hydraulic Pump Hose Routing 2B-7 Installing Hydraulic Hoses 2B-7 MerCruiser IA-IB-IC Power Tilt Hydraulic Hose . . . . 2B-7 Ride-Guide Steering Cable Attachments 2B-8 Adjusting Steering 2B-8 Attaching Throttle Cable - 4 and 6-Cyl. Engines 2B-9 Installing Hydraulic Cylinders - Stern Drive Units Equipped with Shock Absorbers 2B-1 0 Installing Tilt or Trim Combination 2B-11 Shift Cable Dimension - All MerCruiser I 2B-1 2 Shift Cable Installation - All MerCruiser I 2B-1 2 Right Side Mounted 2B-1 2 Left Side Mounted 2B-1 3 Attaching and Adjusting Shift Cable . 2B-1 3 Remote Control Mounted on Right Side 2B-1 3 Remote Control Mounted on Left Side 2B-1 5 MERCRUISER I ENGINE REMOVAL IMPORTANT: The MerCruiser Stern Drive Unit is designed for use with MerCruiser marine 4-cvlinder and 6-cylinder engines which have standard automotive engine rotation (counterclockwise when viewing engine flywheel from the rear). All drive units are right hand propeller rotation. NOTE: Stern drive unit must be removed prior to engine removal, if engine can not be moved forward sufficiently to clear drive shaft. Stem drive removal procedure is the reverse of installation, following. 1. Disconnect battery cables from battery and remove instrument pane, harness connector plug from engine harness receptacle. 2. Disconnect fuel line and throttle and shift control cables. 3. Disconnect shift inter-lock switch wires, trim indicator sender wires and hydraulic pump motor wires from engine. 4. Remove water inlet tube and exhaust tubes. (Figures 1 and 2) 5. Support engine wi th a suitable sling thru lifting eyes on engine and remove front and rear engine mounting bolts. 6. Remove engine. Figure 2. Exhaust Tube REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT -2 B-116 ENGINE INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT 1. Support engine with lifting eyes on engine. NOTE: Lubricate coupling splines with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588J. 2. Place following parts on top of inner transom plate engine mounting brackets: (Figure 3) a. Large fiber washer. b. Special split lockwasher inside diameter of large fiber washer. Figure 4. Cut of Special Spring Lockwasher Figure 3. Engine Mounting Bracket Parts CALT10N: To help overcome misalignment, made at time of engine installation, engine height on MerCruiser 120 (Serial No. 2050045 and up) and MerCruiser 160 ( 2051445 and up) have been lowered 3/32" (2.4mm) via narrow spacers above engine mounts in flywheel cover. To lower engine height on all model 110-140-150 and 120-160's (below Serial Nos. listed above), cut the special, double-wound spring lockwasher (B-13-33734) in half (same result as installing new spacers). (Figure 4) DO NOT CLT special lockwasher on Merc 120-160 engines above Serial Nos. listed. 3. Position engine over transom plate mounting brackets. Place hose clamps over rubber exhaust tube or bellows and position over manifold outlet. Tighten hose clamps securely. (Figure 4 or 5) 4. Place steel washers and spacers on mounting bolts and insert bolts down thru engine mounts, washers and mounting brackets. Thread elastic stop nuts on bolts. Do not tighten. 5- Adjust front mounting bracket by turning adjusting nuts until bracket rests firmly on mount location in boat to relieve hoist tension. (Figure 5) 6. Torque rear mounting bolts to 35-40 ft. lbs. (4.835.52mkg). igure 670 2 A-2 - 670 REMOVAL - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT Figure 8. Alignment Shaft in Position Alignment Shaft 7. Insert small diameter end of Alignment Shaft (C-9148247 or C-91-57797A1) thru gimbal bearing. (Figure 8) Move gimbal bearing with alignment shaft to insert it into engine coupling spline, if necessary. If alignment shaft enters coupling freely with no pressure, alignment is correct. If not, loosen front mounting bracket adjusting nuts and thread either way to raise or lower front of engine until alignment shaft slides into engine coupling spline with no pressure. 8. After correct alignment shaft fit, tighten lower adjusting nuts securely. Recheck alignment shaft fit. 9. Secure mounting bracket to boat. 10. Place hose clamp over water inlet tube and place tube over copper inlet pipe. Fasten hose clamp securely. (Figure 9) Figure 9. Installing Water Inlet Tube REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT -2 B-116 INSTALLING STERN DRIVE UNIT (For Removal - Reverse the Following Procedure) Before installing stern drive unit, it is very important that correct gasket(s) be used between drive shaft housing and bell housing and that parts mate correctly in order to provide proper sealing of water intake passage. Refer to appropriate pages in Section 6. 1. Lubricate shifting slide assembly. (Figure 1) 2. Lubricate drive shaft housing pilot and drive shaft splines with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). Apply a light coating of lubricant to inside surfaces of bell housing bore. (Figure 2) Figure 1. Lubricating Shifting Slide Assembly Figure 2. Drive Shaft Housing Lubrication and Installation CAUTION: If locating slot of shift lever in bell housing and coupler of intermediate shift shaft in drive shaft housing are not aligned as described in Steps 3 and 4, bell housing and shift shaft couplers will be damaged when drive unit is installed. 3. Align shift lever coupler slot straight by moving shift lever to right. Lubricate slot and reverse lock roller with New Multipurpose Lubricant. (Figure 3) Figure 3. Lubricating Slot and Reverse Lock Roller 4. Align intermediate shift shaft coupler for straight entry into locating slot of shift lever while in forward gear. (Figure 4) NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate propeller shaft to align intermediate shift shaft coupling with upper shift shaft slot. 5. Lubricate coupler cam surface and lower roller with New Multipurpose Lubricant. 6- Position drive shaft housing gasket in place. NOTE: Place reverse loch hook release lever in "Lock" position on drive shaft housings so equipped. 7. Insert stern drive unit inLo bell housing bore. (Figure 2) a. Guide U-joint shaft splines thru gimbal bearing into drive coupling while guiding shift slide into opening in drive shaft housing. NOTE: Since fit between Li-joint "0" rings and gimbal housing bait bearing is tight, coat "0" rings with New Multipurpose Lubricant. b. Be careful not to move shift slide assembly or coupler. 8. If drive shaft splines do not align with engine coupling splines, place propeller on shaft and rotate counterclockwise until drive unit can be pushed into position. Figure 4. Aligning Intermediate Shift Shaft Coupler 670 4 A-2 - REMOVAL - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT 214 Figure 5. Fastening Drive Shaft Housing to Bell Housing 9. Fasten drive shaft housing with elastic stop nuts and flat washers and torque evenly to 50 ft. lbs. (6.9mkg). (Figure 5) NOTE: Refer to "Drive Shaft Housing to Bell Housing Combinations" in "Drive Systems" Section 6. For Units with Dyna-Shocks, place one washer on Dyna-Shock thru bolt and insert bolt thru right Dyna-Shock, drive shaft housing and left Dyna-Shock. (Figure 6) Place washer on bolt and thread on elastic stop nut. Tighten nut and back off Vi-tum. 10. Check that drive unit tilt adjustment bolt is installed in gimbal ring. Nut on bolt should be tightened and backed-off approximately ?4-turn to allow bolt to rotate freely. 01215 Figure 6. Installing Dyna-Shock Thru Bolt CORRECT SEALING GASKET MERCRUISER I 1. Early MerCruiseras shown in Figureshown in Figure 8. production 7, bell housing used drive and shaft housing 2 gaskets as Figure 7. Drive Shaft Housing Figure 8. Left, Bell Housing and Right, Gasket Figure 9. Drive Shaft Housing REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT - 2 B-5 TRANSOM PLATE INSTALLATION 1. Se SeSet tt gimba gimbagimbal ll housin housinhousing gg assembl assemblassembly yy an anand dd inne inneinner rr transo transotransom mm plat platplate ee in position. (Figure 1) Insert shift cable, switch leads, hydraulic lines, etc, thru proper openings in transom and inner transom plate. (Figure 2) 3. Hold gimbal housing and inner transom plate in position and fasten with nuts and bolts. (Figure 1) Figure 2. Late Routing of Hydraulic Line SOTE: Do not attempt to drive cap screw thru transom, as threads in gimbal housing will be damaged. 01 180 4. Tighten screws and nuts evenly with 20-25 ft. lbs. (2.77-3.46mkg) torque. Figure 1. Installing Inner Transom Plate(Early) Figure 10. Left, Bell Housing and Right, Gasket 2. Later production used drive shaft housing as shown in Figure 9, bell housing and one gasket as shown in Figure 10. 3. On installations which have early bell housing (Figure 8), 2 gaskets must be used. Either drive shaft housing (Figure 7 or Figure 9^ can be used with this bell housing and gasket combination. 4. On installations which have later bell housing (Figure 10), one gasket must be used. Only later drive shaft housing (Figure 9) can be used with this bell housing and gasket combination. 5. If drive unit has been installed previously and gaskets are compressed, new gaskets should be installed or leakage will occur. Use Gasket Adhesive (C-92-25234) to secure gaskets to drive shaft housing. MERCRUISER IA-IB-IC Do not attempt to install a MerCruiser I drive shaft housing on a MerCruiser IA-IB-IC beil housing. Although the bolt pattern is the same, the drive shaft will not align with the gimbal housing bail bearing. 1. Use Gasket Adhesive 'C-92-25234) to secure rubber sealing rings to beli housing. (Figure 11) 2. Use gasket C-27-35996 and secure to bell housing with Gasket Adhesive (C-92-25234). Always replace gasket to assure a good seal and to prevent water leakage. -REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT 670 6 A-2 670 HYDRAULIC PUMP HOSE ROUTING INSTALLING HYDRAULIC HOSES NOTE: New units are shipped with Power Trim hydraulic pump and trim sender installed. 1. Remove cap from fitting (located on end of black hydraulic hose) and remove threaded plug from pump. (Figure 3) Figure 3. Hydraulic Pump Installed 2. Immediately connect hose to pump. 3. Remove cap from fitting (located on end of grey reverse lock valve hydraulic hose) and remove threaded plug from valve. (Figure 3) DO NOT allow oil to run out of hose and pump. Tighten fittings securely. 4. Clamp hydraulic hoses securely to transom plate at location shown in Figure 3. Use clamp and screw- provided with transom plate. IMPORTANT: Failure to comply with preceding Steps 1,2,3, and 4 may cause hydraulic hose to become dam aged and render hydraulic system inoperative. Figure 4. Hydraulic Hoses 5. Loosen Dump reservoir screw. (Figure 3) Note that vent mus: be open for proper operation. 6. With unit down all the way in normal operating position, check oil level by removing "Fill" screw. If necessary, fill to bottom of threads with an SAE 20-20W specification MS automotive oil. Do not overfill. 7. Replace "Fill" screw. MERCRUISER IA-IB-IC POWER TILT HYDRAULIC HOSE To prevent damage to hydraulic line from engine coupling, the line is routed around outside of exhaust hose, rather than across top of exhaust hose. (Figure 3) This can be completed by loosening hydraulic coupling at the transom and repositioning as shown in Figure 4. Hydraulic line connector at hydraulic pump should be bent 90° to allow sufficient slack for hydraulic line. REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT -2 B-116 RIDE-GUIDE STEERING CABLE ATTACHMENTS 1. Insert cable end thru tube and thread large hand-type fastening nut on tube securely. (Figure 1) 2. Early type Ride-Guide cable a. Attach coupler halves to steering cable and link with flat washer and lock nut. (Figure 1 or 2) b. Tighten nut securely. Figure 4. Attaching Steering Cable to Drive Unit from Left c. Attach steering link rod to lever with spacer, flat washer and lock nut and tighten as specified in box of Figure 5. NOTE: If steering lever has a special plastic sleeve, tighten no more than 50-60 in. lbs. (8.88-10.65kg/cm). 01193 Figure 1. Attaching Steering Cable to Drive Unit from Right (Early Model) Figure 5. Attachin g Steering Cable Washer Tighten to No More than 12 Ft. Lbs. Nut to Drive Unit from Right 01195 Rgure 2. Attaching Steering Cable to Drive Unit from Left (Early Model) 3. Late type Ride-Guide cable a. Assemble spacers and cable on steering link rod. (Figure 3) b. Tighten nut securely, then back off !4-turn (Figure 4) (or torque nut, Figure 5, to 12 ft. lbs. C1.7mkgJ). Tighten to no more than 12 Ft. Lbs. NOTE: Spacers are in plastic bag in cable carton. Figure 6. Attaching Steering Cable to Drive Unit from Left Figure 3. Attachi ng Steering Cable to Drive Unit from Right ADJUSTING STEERING Refer to Section 7, Part B, for steering adjustment. 2A-8 - REMOVAL. - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT ATTACHING THROTTLE CABLE - 4 and 6-CYL. ENGINES Figure 5. Throttle Control Cable Installed with Conversion Kit (Dual and Single Carburetion) Figure 2. Throttle Control Cable Installed Later 4-Cylinder Engine Figure 1. Throttle Control Cable Installed -Figure 4. Throttle Control Cable Installed Early 4-Cylinder Engine 6-Cylinder Engine with Dual Carburetors 1. Place remote control in neutral gear. stud. Fasten barrel to stud. 2. Fasten cable end guide to throttle lever arm. (Figures 4. Check that throttle valves are fully open when remote l-thru-6) control is in full forward position. Return control to 3. Grasp throttle cable behind brass barrel and push cable neutral gear and check for idle stop screw against stop. toward throttle lever. Adjust barrel to align with anchor Figure 3. Throttle Control Cable Installed 4-Cylinder "140" Engine Figure 6. Throttle Control Cable Installed 6- Cylinder Engine 9 REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT - 2 B-116 INSTALLING HYDRAULIC CYLINDERS STERN DRIVE UNITS EQUIPPED with SHOCK ABSORBERS Figure 1. Tilt Adjustment Stud Installed Figure 2. Aft Anchor Pin Installed 1. Insert tilt adjustment stud thru desired set of holes in gimbal ring. (Figure 1) NOTE: Place one spring-type washer on tilt pin stud on each side of gimbal ring. Dished side of washers must be away from gimbal ring. 2. Insert aft anchor pin in drive shaft housing and assemble rubber sleeves, flat washers and rubber bushings on pin. (Figure 2) NOTE: Apply a thin coat of New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588) on rubber bushings when installing hydraulic tilt cylinders. (Figure 2) 3. Position tilt cylinders on tilt pin stud and aft anchor pin. IMPORTANT. Note position of aft end of cylinders. (Figure 3) Do not turn outer portion of cylinders, as this will cause internal damage. 4. Place rubber bushings in aft end of cylinder. 5. Place flat washers and nuts on tilt pin stud and aft anchor pin and tighten securely. (Figure 3) 570R1 2G-6 - REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT INSTALLING TILT or TRIM COMBINATION 1. Insert tilt adjustment stud thru desired location in gimbal ring (Figure 4) which will place anti-cavitation plate parallel with boat bottom on those models so equipped. It may be necessary to change this position after initial test run, depending upon riding characteristics of boat. 2. Insert forward anchor pin in gimbal ring. (Figure 4) 3. Place flat washer and rubber bushing and spiral spring on each side of forward anchor pin. ^ - — 01531 Figure 5. Aft Anchor Pin Installed NOTE: Be sure that one spiral spring is installed between rubber bushings on each pin. (Figure 5) 6. Place rubber bushings in forward and aft end of each cylinder. 7. Place flat washer on each end of both anchor pins, install nuts and tighten securely. (Figure 6) Figure 4. Tilt Adjustment Stud Installed 3. Install aft anchor pin and large washer, rubber bushing and spiral spring on each side of aft anchor pin. Place rubber bushing an each side of aft anchor pin. (Figure 5) 4. Place cylinders in position on anchor pins. 02587 Figure 6. Cylinder Installed REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT - 2 B-11 SHIFT CABLE DIMENSIONS - ALL MERCRUISER I To obtain maximum adjustability on remote control shift cable, check the following dimensions: 1. With cable end guide removed and unit in full forward gear, inner core wire of drive unit shift cable on early units must extend exactly 1-3/8" (3.5cm) from end of Figure 3. Centerline to Cerrterline 5-7/8" - Late Style cable guide insert. (Figure 1) Slide support tube over core wire so that (12.7mm) of core wire is shown. It is secured to core wire by crimping. 2. Slide cable end gui ide over end of cable thru cable anchor. 3. Snug one anchor screw and tighten the other to secure Figure 1. Solid Inner Core Wire Extension Stern Drive Unit core wire. (Figure 2) 4. With cable end guide installed and unit ir. full forward Shift Cable - Early Style gear, distance from centerline of brass barrel to center- line of cable end guide mounting hole must be exactly 5-7/8" (14.92cm). (Figure 3) Readjust brass barrel to achieve this dimension. NOTE: Early MerCruiser I units have brass barrel on shift cable secured to transom plate with a spacer, washer and elastic stop nut. (Figure 1) On late Mer- Cruiser I units, brass barrel of shift cable fits into recess of transom plate and is secured with a cotter pin. (Figure 3J SHIFT CABLE INSTALLATION - ALL MERCRUISER I Figure 2. Support Tube and Core Wire Later unit shift cables require installation of support tube on shift cable inner core wire (standard). (Figure 2) NOTE: On early MerCruiser production, drive unit shift cable routing was on starboard (RIGHT) side of inner transom plate. (Figure 4) On later production, routing was on port (LEFT) side. (Figure 5) Figure 6. Attaching Shift Cable Tube transom plate with tab washer and flat head screw. (Figure 6) 2. Set brass barrel on shift cable. See "Shift Cable Dimensions", preceding. 3. Fasten cable guide to mounting bracket stud, but do not tighten nut. (Figure 7) 4. Brass barrel mounting screw should be located at bottom of curved slot. Attach with thick washers which sandwich slot in shift lever. (Figure 7) NOTE: Shift cables attach to same 2 points. Figure 5. Left Side Routing of Shift Cable RIGHT SIDE MOUNTED 1. Push nylon tube (from around shift cable) into recess in gimbal housing, then anchor tube and cable to inner Figure 7. Fastening Cable Guide 670 12 A-2 - REMOVAL - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT LEFT SIDE MOUNTED NOTE: Early MerCruiser 1 units have brass barrel on shift cable secured to transom plate with a spacer, washer and elastic stop nut. (Figure 8J On later units, brass barrel of shift cable fits into recess of transom plate and is secured with a cotter pin. (Figure 9) Figure 9. Fastening Cable Guide - Late Models Figure 8. Fastening Cable Guide - Early Models 1. Anchor shift cable to inner transom plate with clamp and screw. (Figure 10) 2. Set brass brarrel on shift cable. See "Shift Dimensions" , preceding. 3. Fasten cable end guide to shift lever. Do not tighten nut securely, as end guide must pivot freely on mounting stud. (Figure 8) 4- Fasten brass barrel to transom plate. NOTE: Shift cables attach to same 2 points. ATTACHING and ADJUSTING SHIFT CABLE IMPORTANT: Install remote control and throttle and shift cables as outlined in instructions. Remote control shift cable may be installed in 2 ways, depending upon location of remote control station, right (starboard) side of boat, or left (port) side. REMOTE CONTROL MOUNTED on RIGHT SIDE 1. With control cable attached in bottom of slot, move shift lever to right (when viewing lever from inside boat) as far as it will travel. (Figure 11) This shifts stern drive unit into forward gear. While shifting, turn propeller shaft counterclockwise until shaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement. Figure 10. Anchoring Shift Cable to Transom Plate NOTE: On E-Z Shift thru 160 models, place lockout screw thru cutout switch lever. (Figure 11) Some early MerCruis er drives have unit shift cable routed on left side of transom plate, as shown in Figure 5, preceding. 2. Move remote control handle to full forward position. 3. Anchor remote control shift cable end guide to transom plate anchor point. Pull outer conduit away from cable guide to eliminate slack in cable. Adjust brass barrel on remote control shift cable to align with mounting hole in shift lever. (Figure 12) Figure 12. Removing Slack from Shift Cable and Adjusting Brass Barrel REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT -2 B-116 9. Secure stern drive cable end guide to shift lever. NOTE: Follow Steps 10 and 11, following, for models with Power Trim or E-Z Shi ft feature. 10. Reverse lock valve adjustment (Power Trim units only): a. Shift into full reverse. While shifting, rotate propeller shaft clockwise until shaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement. b. Loosen 2 nuts on shift lever and move upper nut in direction required to line up raised triangular mark on cam with raised triangular mark on reverse valve cover. (Figures 16 and 17) Tighten 2 nuts on shift lever. Figure 13. Shift Cable Installed 4. Fasten brass barrel ar.d spacer to shift lever. Tighten CAUTION: Unit may be locked in neutral if nut securely. (Figure 13) reverse lock valve is over-adjusted. 5. Disconnect shift cable end guide from transom plate anchor point. 11. Remove screw that was attached thru shift cutout 6. Move remote control handle to full reverse. switch lever. (Figure 15) This completes shift cable installation. Loose from Anchor Point 01249 Figure 14. Shifting into Reverse Gear Brass Barrel Figure 15. Locating End Guide in Shift Lever Slot and Anchoring Shift Cable 7. Manually move shift lever to left (when viewing lever from inside boat) as far as it will go. (Figure 14) This shifts stern drive unit into reverse. While shifting, rotate propeller shaft clockwise until shaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement. 8. Loosen and move end guide of stern drive shift cable up slot in shift lever until cable end guide can be reinstalled to transom anchor point. (Figure 15) 2A-14 -REMOVAL. - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT Figure 16. Aligning Marks Figure 17. Adjusting Reverse Lock Valve REMOTE CONTROL MOUNTED on LEFT SIDE 1. On E-Z Shift thru 160 models, place lockout screw- thru cutout switch lever. (Figure 15) 2. With shift cable attached in bottom of slot, move shift lever to right (when viewing lever from inside boat) as far as it will go. (Figure 11) This shifts stern drive unit into forward. While shifting, turn propeller shaft counterclockwise until shaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement. 3. Move remote control handle to full forward. 4. Anchor shift cable end guide to shift lever. (Figure 18) Pull outer conduit away from cable guide to eliminate slack in cable. Adjust brass barrel on shift cable to align with transom plate anchor point. 5. Fasten brass barrel with spacer to transom plate anchor point. Tighten nut securely. (Figure 19) Figure 20. Shifting into Reverse Gear 6. Disconnect shift cable end guide from shift lever. 7. Move remote control handle to full reverse. 8. Manually move shift lever to left (when viewing lever from inside boat) as far as it will travel. (Figure 20) This shifts stern drive unit into reverse. While shifting, rotate propeller shaft clockwise until shaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement. 9. Loosen and move end guide of stern drive shift cable up slot in shift lever until cable end guide can be reinstalled on shift lever. (Figure 21) 10. Securely tighten nut on stud which fastens stern drive cable end guide to shift lever. NOTE: Models with Power Trim or E-Z Shift, complete Steps 11 and 12, following. 11. Reverse lock valve adjustment (Power Trim models only): a. Shift into full reverse. While shifting, rotate propeller shaft clockwise until shaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement. Figure 19. Shift Cable Installed 01242 Figure 18. Removing Slack from Cable and Adjusting Brass Barrel Figure 21. Locating End Guide in Shift Lever Slot and Anchoring Shift Cable b. Loosen 2 nuts on shift lever and move upper nut in direction required to line up raised triangular mark on cam with raised triangular mark on reverse valve cover. (F igures .16 and !7) T ighten 2 nuts on shift lever. CAUTION: Unit may be looked in neutral if re verse lock valve is over-adjusted. 12. Remove screw that was attached thru shift cutout switch lever. (Figure 20) This completes shift cable installation. REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT - 2 B-116 SECTION 2 - REMOVAL, INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT PART C - MERCRUISER II STERN DRIVE (Non-Transom Mounted) INDEX Page MerCruiser II Engine Removal(Non-Transom Mounted Type) 2C-1 Engine Installation and Alignment 2C-1 MerCruiser II Stern Drive Installation 2C-3 Latches and Catches 2C-3 MerCruiser 200-225 Stern Drive Installation 2C-4 Transom Plate Installation 2C-5 Shift Cable installation and Adjustment 2C-6 Shift Cable Dimensions 2C-6 Left Hand Propeller Rotation Drive Unit 2C-6 (Control Mounted on Right Side of Boat) Reverse Adjustment 2C-6 Forward Adjustment ...................2C-7 Left Hand Propeller Rotation Drive Unit 2C-8 (Control Mourted on Left side of Boat) Reverse Adjustment 2C-8 Forward Adjustment 2C-9 Right Hand Propeller Rotation Drive Unit 2C-9 (Control Mounted on Right Side of Boat) Forward Adjustment 2C-9 Reverse Adjustment 2C-1 0 Right Hand Propeller Rotation Drive Unit 2C-11 (Control Mounted on Left Side of Boat) Forward Adjustment 2C-11 Reverse Adjustment 2C-1 2 Throttle Control Cable Attachment 2C-1 3 MerCruiser 200 and 225 2C-13 MerCruiser II 2C-1 3 Early Model Carburetors 2C-1 3 Late Model Carburetors 2C-13 Ride-Guide Steering 2C-14 Attaching Steering Cable to Stern Drive 2C-1 4 Adjusting Ride-Guide Cable 2C-14 Ride-Guide Cable Measurement 2C-14 MERCRUISER n ENGINE REMOVAL (Non-Transom Mounted Type) IMPORTANT: Stern drive unit must be removed prior to engine removal, if engine sufficiently to clear drive procedure is the reverse 1. Disconnect battery cablesinstrument panel harnessharness receptacle. 2. Disconnect fuel line andcables. can not be moved forward shaft. Stern drive removal of installation, following. from battery and remove connector plug from engine throttle and shift control 3. Disconnect reverse lock switch, trim indicator switch wires and hydraulic pump motor wires from engine. 4. Remove water inlet tube and exhaust tubes. 5- Support engine with a suitable sling thru lifting eyes on engine and remove front and rear engine mounting bolts. 6. Remove engine. ENGINE INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT IMPORTANT: It is necessary that the transom plates be installed BEFORE PROCEEDING with "Engine Installation". Refer to MerCruiser Stern Drive Instal lation, Following. 1. Lift engine with overheadand lifting eyes on engine. 2. Place engine in positionplates to boat stringers. 3. Position small tool plate(C-91-31620A3) in boreengine end. Turn expanderit in position. (Figure 1) hoist, using suitable sling but do not fasten mounting of Engine Alignment Tool of outer transom plate at screw in tool plate to hold Figure 1. Alignment Tool C-91-31620A3 4. Set large tool plate in outer transom plate bore with shoulder of tool plate firmly against outer transom plate. Turn expander screw in tool plate to hold it in position. 5. Insert guide rod (pointed end) thru centers of tool plates and insert pointer on guide rod. (Figure 1) 6. Place adjusting disc on machined shoulder of engine coupling. 7. Engine mounts are adjustable to aidcorrect engine alignment as outlined8-9-10-11, following. Mount adjustingfollows: Front and Rear Mounts (Figures 2 and 3) in obtaining in Paragraphs points are as a. To raise or lower front or rear of engine, justing screw counterclockwise to lower engine. turn ad- b. To move engine to the right or left, loosen screw and nut "B". 8. Position engine, as required, to place pointed end of guide rod within 1/8" (3.2mm) or less of center of adjusting disc. (Figure 1) Figure 3. Rear Engine Mount Adjustments 9. Move engine forward or backward, as required, to place back surface of rear tool plate within width of proper groove in guide rod. (Figure 1) 10. With guide rod pressed into adjusting disc center, rotate guide rod and position pointer on highest point of adjusting disc. Secure pointer to guide rod by tightening pointer locking screw. (Figure 1) 570 REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT - 2 B-116 11. Adjust engine mounts, as required, so that gap between pointer and adjusting disc is 1/16" (1.6mm) or less when pointer is rotated 360°. Adjusting disc may be painted with machinist's blueing so that areas, where pointer does not touch disc, may be seen easily. 12. Fasten mounting plates securely to boat stringers. Tighten screws and nuts ("B " in Figures 2-3-4) and bend tabs on tab washers over edge of mounts. 13. Recheck engine location and alignment (Steps 8-9-1011) and make adjustments as necessary. 14. Remove alignment tool. Figure 4. Rear Engine Mount Adjustments - Early 670R1 2G-6 - REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT MERCRUISER n STERN DRIVE INSTALLATION (For Removal - Reverse the Following Procedure) 1. Lubricate bore of outer transom plate and splined shaft of drive unit surfaces with New Multipurpose Quick silver Lubricant (C-92-49588). 2. Insert tilt adjustment bolt thru one set of holes in gimbal ring. Thread nut on bolt and tighten. Back nut off 1/2-turn to allow bolt to rotate freely. Refer to "Tilt Bolt Adjustment" for correct adjustment when operating boat. 3. Insert MerCruiser shift cable and tilt-up switch cable thru opening in transom plates. 4. With unit rotated clockwise (as viewed from rear of boat) approximately 15° to clear stop screw, push unit into opening (Figure 1), aligning shaft spline with spline in coupler. 5. Install crank on crank extension, press down and turn crank slowly clockwise. A slight movement of the unit inward indicates thread engagement. Now turn slowly counterclockwise to thread gimbal housing into clamp nut. NOTE: If, after engagement of threads, cranking is difficult, back off by turning crank in opposite direc tion. Do not. force crank, as cross-threading may occur. 6. Crank until stop on gimbal housing is over the stop screw. (Figure 2) 7. Line up drive unit as close to perpendicular with boat bottom as possible. 8. Crank until clamp nut is tight. 9. While holding free end of latch actuating spring away from steering lever housing, assemble latch to housing with flat head nylock screw . (Figure 2) Turn in tightly and back out 1/4-turn. (Latch must pivot freely.) The free, formed end of latch actuating spring must be in contact with step in latch. (Figure 2.1 10. Catch on clamp nut must be located approximately in the 1 o'clock position when viewing clamp nut from inside boat. Re-position in one set of the series of threaded holes in clamp nut, if necessary, to attain proper latch and catch engagement. If catch is not positioned correctly, teeth on gimbal housing and outer transom plate will be meshed when catch engages latch and unit cannot be rotated to the "Up " position. 11. Loosen 6 clamp nut cover mounting screws and rotate cover until latch seats firmly in notch. (Figure 2) NOTE: Latch must prohibit clockwise rotation of clamp nut cover. 12. Tighten 6 cover mounting screws. 13. Adjust stop screw against stop on steering lever housing. 14. Press down on crank and turn clockwise to rotate unit up for check. 15. After cranking unit down to running position, crank about 25 more turns until firmly locxed . NOTE: If stern drive unit is not locked in operating position, and single lever remote control is not in neutral position, circuit from starter switch to starter is open, and starter will not operate. Figure 2. Stern Drive Unit in Position LATCHES AND CATCHES Latch and catch must be properly matched to steering lever housing to assure proper crank-up and crank-down of stern drive unit. The following chart and Figures 3-4-5-6 will assist you in selecting correct latch and catch for replacement purposes. STEERING LEVER HSG. LATCH CATCH B-32353A1 B-31961 Superseded B-31973 by B-32416 B-31867A2 B-32619 B-32616 B-32760A3 B-33638 B-33639 B-32420A2 B-35249 B-33639 REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT - 2 B-116 Figure 3. Steering Lever Housing B-32353A1 Figure 5. Steering Lever Housing B-32760A3 Figure 6. Steering Lever Housing B-32420A2 Figure 4. Steering Lever Housing B-31867A2 MERCRUISER 200-225 STERN DRIVE INSTALLATION (For Removal - Reverse the Following Procedure) 1. Lubricate bore of outer transom plate, "0 " rings and splined shaft of drive unit with New Multipurpose Quicksilver Lubricant (C-92-49588). (Figure 7) 2. Insert drive unit shift cable and tilt-up switch cable thru opening in transom plates and clamp nut. NOTE: When installing drive unit, place clamp nut over engine coupling with "FORWARD" tapered end toward flywheel. 3. Push unit into opening, aligning shaft spline with spline in engine coupling and locating pin with recess in drive. (Figure 8) 4. Hold drive in place and thread clamp nut onto steering drum. Figure 7. Lubricating Drive Unit 2A-4 - REMOVAL. - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT holes so that locking screw and washer may be installed. (Figure 9) NOTE: Use locking screw (C-10-35192) and eccentric washer (C-12-54208) to retain clamp nut. if locking screw and washer will not hold clamp nut. Figure 8. Installing Stern Drive Unit NOTE: If, after engagement of threads, tightening is difficult, back off by'turning in opposite direction. Do not force, as cross-threading may occur. 5. Use Tightening Bar (C-91-49670) to tighten clamp nut, aligning clamp nut flute with one of the 6 screw TRANSOM PLATE 1. Place outer and inner transom plates in position over drilled holes. (F igure 1) Insert lock-in switch lead thru opening in inner transom plate. 2. Insert 2 transom bolts with rubber seals under heads thru holes drilied previously. Install washers and nuts on bolts and tighten, 3. Drill the other six 9/16 " (14.288mm) holes, using transom plates as a guide, and insert mounting bolts with rubber seals under heads. Figure 2. Lock-In Switch Cover 4. Install washers and nuts on bolts and torque all 8 nuts evenly to 30 ft. lbs. (4.148mkg). (Figure 1) 5. Place lock-in switch cover in position and fasten with 2 screws . Position switch lead as shown in Figure 2. NOTE: If stern drive unit is not locked in operating position, and single lever remote control is not in neutral position, circuit from starter switch to starter is open and starter will not operate. Figure 9. Clamp Nut Installation INSTALLATION Figure 1. Inr.er Transom Plate Installed in Transom REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT - 2 B-5 SHIFT CABLE INSTALLATION and ADJUSTMENT IMPORTANT: EarK MerCruiser II model does not have reverse lock valves. Disregard "Reverse Lock Valve Adjustment" procedure, following, for earlv MerCruiser II model. NOTE: This stem(counterclockwiseuse a left hand drive when viepropeller. unitwed is from left rear) hand and rotation must The propeller shaft rotation can be changed to right hand by following instructions outlined under III or IV, follow- ing,and installing a right hand propeller. e Do not install propeller before attaching and adjusting shift cable . e Do not attach throttle cable to carburetor before attaching and adjusting shift cable, e Engine must be running and power shift operating when cable adjustment procedure calls for remote control handle to be moved to full forward or full reverse positions. After handle has been moved, engine mav be stopped. e When installing shift cables, correct adjustments must be made so that remote control station synchronizes with stern drive unit, and full clutch engagement is attained when remote control handle is in forward or reverse position, e Failure to comply with the above instructions will result in damage to the stern drive shift mechanism. SHIFT CABLE DIMENSIONS To obtain maximum adjustability on remote control shift cable, drive unit shift cable dimensions must be checked as follows: 1. With cable end guide removed and unit in full reverse gear, inner core wire of stern drive unit shift cable must extend exactly 1-3/8 " (34.9mm) from end of cable guide insert (full forward gear engagement on right hand propeller rotation units). (Figure 1) Figure 1. Inner Core Wire Extended 1-3/8 " (34.9mm) Stern Drive Unit Shift Cable 2. Rith cable end guide installed and unit in full reverse gear (full forward gear engagement on right hand propeller rotation units), the distance from center line of brass barrel to center line of cable end guide mounting hole must be exactly 6'4" (15.87cm). (Figure 2) Readjust brass barrel to achieve this dimension. Figure 2. Center Line to Center Line Dimension 614" Stern Drive Unit Shift Cable 2c-6 - removal-installation-alignment The following instructions individually outline the installation and adjustment of shift cables on the 4 fol lowing type installations: I. Left hand propeller rotation drive unit with remotetrol mounted on right (starboard) side of boat. II. Left hand propeller rotation drive unit with remotetrol mounted on left (port) side of boat. concon- III. Right hand propeller rotation drive unit with remote control mounted on right (starboard) side of boat. IV. Right hand propeller rotation drive unit with remote control mounted on left (port) side of boat. Select and follow instructions which apply to installation Type I, II, III or IV. I. LEFT HAND PROPELLER ROTATION DRIVE UNIT Remote Control Mounted on Right (Starboard Side of Boat) REVERSE ADJUSTMENT 1. Tighten nut on pivot stud of switch lever so that lever cannot be moved. (Figure 3) 2. Fasten stern drive shift cable end guide to mounting stud on switch lever with washer and clastic stop nut. Do not tighten nut too tight, as end guide must be free to pivot on stud. (Figure 3) 3. Mount brass barrel loosely in curved slot of shift lever with cap screw, spacer, 2 washers and nut. Be sure that thick washers sandwhich shift lever. Do not tighten nut. (Figure 3] Figure 3. Manually Shifting Stern Drive Unit into Reverse Gear - L.H. Rotation - Right Hand Control 4. Push top of shift lever to right (when viewed from inside boat) as far as possible while turning propeller shaft. (Figure 3) This shifts stern drive unit into reverse gear. Proper engagement of clutch, as shown in following illustration (Figure 4), will be felt. CORRECT INCORRECT INCORRECT Figure 4. Gear Clutch Engagement NOTE: Be sure to push lever to right as far as possible to insure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replacement of sliding clutch and reverse gear. 5. Move remote control handle to full reverse. 6. Anchor remote control shift cable end guide to transom plate anchor point with cap screw-, 2 washers and nut. Push outer conduit toward cable guide as far as possible, to eliminate slack in cable, and adjust brass barrel to align with mounting hole in shift lever. (Figure 5) 03754 Figure 5. Adjusting Remote Control Shift Cable Brass Barrel - L.H. Rotation - Right Hand Control 7. Fasten brass barrel to shift lever with cap screw, spacer, washers and nut. Tighten nut securely. (Figure 6) 8. Remote control and stern drive now are synchronized in "Reverse" gear. This shifts stern drive unit into forward gear. (Figure 7) Proper engagement of clutch, as shown in illustration (Figure 4), will be felt. NOTE: Be sure to pull lever to left as far as possible to insure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with parital engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replacement of sliding clutch and forward gear. 4. Raise brass barrel of stern drive shift cable up slot in shift lever until remote control shift cable can be reinstalled in transom plate anchor point. (Figure 8) Figure 8. Positioning Stern Drive Unit Shift Cable Brass Figure 6. Shift Cables Installed - Reverse Gear - Left Barrel in Shift Lever Slot and Installing Cable Hand Rotation - Right Hand Control Guide End to Transom Plate Anchor Point FORWARD ADJUS~MENT L.H. Rotation - Right Hand Control 1. Disconnect remote control shift cable end guide from 5. Continue to slide brass barrel up slot until slack is transom plate anchor point. removed from remote control shift cable and tighten 2. Move remote control handle to full forward. cap screw and nut which fastens brass barrel to shift 3. Pull top of shift lever to left (when viewed from inside lever securely. boat) as far as possible while turning propeller shaft 6. Loosen nut on pivot stud of switch lever one full turn. clockwisc (when viewed from behind boati until it can-Lever must pivot freelv when shifting with engine not be turned anv further. running. (Figure 9) REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT - 2 B -116 Figure 9. Shift Cables Installed and Adjusted - Left Hand Rotation - Right Hand Control 7. Reverse lock valve adjustment a. Shift unit into full reverse. While shifting, rotate propeller shaft coun:erclockwise until shaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement. b. Loosen 2 nuts on reverse lock lever and move upper nut in direction required to line up raised triangular mark on reverse lock valve cover. (Figures 10 and 28) Tighten 2 nuts on reverse lock lever. Figure 10. Reverse Lock Valve Adjustment II. LEFT HAND PROPELLER ROTATION DRIVE UNIT Remote Control Mounted on Left (Port Side of Boat) REVERSE ADJUSTMENT 1. Tighten nut on pivot stud of switch lever so that lever cannot be moved. (Figure 3) 2. Fasten stern drive shift cable end guide to mounting stud on switch lever with washer and elastic stop nut. Do not tighten nut too tight, as end guide must be free to pivot on stud.(Figure 4) 3. Mount brass barrel loosely in curved slot of shift lever with cap screw, spacer, 2 washers and nut. Be sure that thick washers sandwich shift lever. Do not tighten nut. (Figure 3) 4. Push top of shift lever to right (when viewed from inside boat) as far as possible while turning propeller shaft. (Figure 3) This shifts stern drive unit into reverse gear. Proper engagement of clutch, as shown in following illustration (Figure 4), will be felt. NOTE: Be sure to push lever to right as far as pos sible to insure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replacement of sliding clutch and reverse gear. 5. Move remote control handle to full reverse position. 6. Anchor remote control shift cable end guide to shift lever with screw, washers and nut. Push outer conduit toward cable guide as far as possible, to eliminate slack in cable, and adjust brass barrel to align with mounting hole in transom plate anchor point. (Figure 11) Figure 11. Adjusting Remote Control Shift Cable Brass Barrel - L.H. Rotation - Left Hand Control 7. Fasten brass barrel to anchor point with cap screw, spacer, washers and nut. Tighten nut securely. (Figure 12) 8. Remote control and stern drive now are synchronized in "Reverse" gear. Figure 12. Shift Cables Installed - Reverse Gear - Left Hand Rotation - Left Hand Control REMOVAL - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT 670 670 2A-2 FORWARD ADJUSTMENT 1. Disconnect remote control shift cable end guide from shift lever. 2. Move remote control handle to full forward position. 3. Pull top of shift lever to left (when viewed from inside boat) as far as possible while having propeller shaft turned clockwise (when viewed from behind boat) until it cannot be turned any further. This shifts stern drive unit into forward gear. (Figure 13) Proper engagement of clutch, as shown in illustration (Figure 4), will be felt. Figure 14. Positioning Stern Drive Unit Shift Cable Brass Barrel in Shift Lever Slot and Installing Cable Guide End to Shift Lever - Left Hand Rotation - Left Hand Control NOTE: Be sure to pull lever to left as far as possible to insure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replacement of sliding clutch and forward gear. 4. Raise brass barrel of stern drive shift cable up slot in shift lever until remote control shift cable can be reinstalled in shift lever. (Figure 14) 5. Continue to slide brass barrel up slot until slack is removed from remote control shift cable and tighten cap screw and nut which fastens brass barrel to shift lever securely. 6. Loosen nut on pivot stud of switch .ever one full turn. Lever must pivot freely when shifting with engine running. (Figure 10) 7. Reverse lock valve adjustment a. Shift unit into full reverse. While shifting, rotate propeller shaft clockwise until shaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement. b. Loosen 2 nuts on reverse lock lever and move upper nut in direction required to line up raised triangular mark on cam with raised triangular mark on reverse lock valve cover. (Figure 10) Tighten 2 nuts on reverse lock lever. Figure 15. Shift Cables Installed and Adjusted - Left Hand Rotation - Left Hand Control III. RIGHT HAND PROPELLER ROTATION DRIVE UNIT Remote Control Mounted on Right (Starboard Side of Boat) Convert left hand rotation drive units to right hand rotation by removing link rod end from upper reverse lock lever arm and reinstalling into lower arm. (Figure 21) FORWARD ADJUSTMENT 1. Tighten nut on pivot stud of switch lever so that lever cannot be moved. (Figure 17) 2. Fasten stern drive shift cable end guide to mounting stud on switch lever with washer and elastic stop nut. Do not tighten nut too tight, as end guide must be free to pivot on stud. 3. Mount brass barrel loosely in curved slot of shift lever with cap screw, spacer, 2 washers and nut. Be sure that thick washers sandwich shift lever. Do not tighten nut. (Figure 17) 570 REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT - 2 B -116 Figure 16. Converting Left Hand Rotation to Right 4. Push top of shift lever to right (when viewed from inside boat) as far as possible while having propeller shaft turned counterclockwise (when viewing from behind boat) until it cannot be turned any further . This shifts stern drive unit into forward gear. (Figure 17) Proper engagement of clutch, as shown in illustration (Figure 4), will be felt. Figure 17. Manually Shifting Stern Drive Unit into Forward Gear - R.H. Rotation - R.H. Control NOTE: Be sure to push Lever to right as far as possible to insure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replacement of sliding clutch and forward gear. 5. Move remote control handle to full forward position. 6. Anchor remote control shift cable end guide to transom plate anchor point with screw, washers and nut. Pull outer conduit away from cable guide as far as possible, to eliminate slack in cable, and adjust brass barrel to align with mounting hole in shift lever. (Figure 18) 2C-10 -REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT 7. Fasten brass barrel to shift lever \v:th cap screw, spacer, washers and nut. Tighten nut secureiv. (Figure 19) 8. Remote control and stern drive now are synchronized in "Forward" gear. (Figure 19) Figure 18. Adjusting Remote Control Shift Cable Brass Barrel - R.H. Rotation - Right Hand Control Figure 19. Shift Cables Installed - Forwcrd Gear - Right Hand Rotation - Right Hand Control REVERSE ADJUSTMENT 1. Disconnect remote control shift cable end guide from transom plate anchor point. 2. Move remote control handle to full reverse position. 3. Rotate propeller shaft clockwise and manually move shift lever to left (when viewing lever from inside of boat) as far as it will go. This shifts drive unit into "Reverse " gear. (Figure 20) When rotating propeller shaft, reverse clutch engagement, as shewn in Figure 4, will be felt. NOTE: Be sure to pull lever to left as far as possible to insure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replacement of sliding clutch and reverse gear. 4. Raise brass barrel of stern drive shift cable up slot in shift lever until remote control shift cable can be reinstalled in transom plate anchor point. (Figure 21) Figure 21. Positioning Stern Drive Unit Shift Cable Brass Barrel in Shift Lever Slot and Installing Cable Guide End to Transom Plate Anchor Point Right Hand Rotation - Right Hand Control 5. Continue to slide brass barrel up slot until slack is removed from remote control shift cable and securely tighten cap screw and nut which fastens brass barrel to shift lever. 6. Loosen nut on pivot stud of switch lever one full turn. Lever must pivot freely when shifting with engine running. (Figure 17) Figure 22. Reverse Lock Valve Adjustment 7. Reverse lock valve adjustment a. Shift unit into full reverse. While shifting, rotate propeller shaft clockwise until shaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement. b. Loosen 2 nuts on reverse lock lever and move upper nut in direction required to line up raised triangular mark on cam with raised triangular mark on reverse lock valve cover. (Figures 22 and 28) Tighten 2 nuts on shift lever. IV. RIGHT HAND PROPELLER ROTATION DRIVE UNIT Remote Control Mounted on Left (Port) Side of Boat Convert left hand rotation drive units to right hand rotation by removing link rod end from upper reverse lock lever arm and reinstalling into lower arm. (Figure 16) FORWARD ADJUSTMENT 1. Tighten nut on pivot stud of switch lever so that lever cannot be moved. (Figure 17) 2. Fasten stern drive shift cable end guide to mounting stud on switch lever with washer and elastic stop nut. Do not tighten nut too tight, as end guide must be free to pivot on stud. (Figure 17) 3. Mount brass barrel loosely in curved slot of shift lever with cap screw, spacer, 2 washers and nut. Be sure that thick washers sandwich shift lever. Do not tighten nut. (Figure 17) Remote Control Shift r„k U FnH GfitrU Figure 23. Adjusting Remote Control Shift Cable Brass Barrel - R.H. Rotation - Left Hand Control 4. Push top of shift lever to right (when viewed from inside boat) as far as possible while having propeller shaft turned counterclockwise (when viewing from behind boat) until it cannot be turned any further. This shifts stern drive unit into forward gear. (Figure 17) Proper engagement of clutch, as shown in Figure 4, will be felt. NOTE: Be sure to push lever to right as far as possible to insure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replacement of sliding clutch and forward gear. 5. Move remote control handle to full forward position. 6. Anchor remote control shift cable end guide to shift lever with screw, washers and nut. Pull outer conduit avvav from cable guide as far as possible, to eliminate slack in cable, and adjust brass barrel to align with mounting hole in transom plate anchor point. (Figure 23) REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT - 2 B-11 7. Fasten brass barrel to anchor point with cap screw, spacer, washers and nut. Tighten nut securely. (Figure 24) NOTE: Fasten control cable behind hydraulic pump with nygrip clamp. 8. Remote control and stern drive now are synchronized in "Forward" gear. .4 03779 Figure 26. Positioning Stern Drive Unit Shift Cable Brass Barrel in Shift Lever Slot and Installing Shift Cable Guide End to Shift Lever - Right Hand Rotation - Left Hand Control 6. Loosen nut on pivot stud of switch lever one full turn. Lever must pivot freely when shifting with engine running. (Figure 27) 03774 Figure 24. Shift Cables Installed - Forward Gear - Right Hand Rotation - Left Hand Control REVERSE ADJUSTMENT 1. Disconnect remote control shift cable end guide from shift lever. Figure 27. Shift Cables Installed and Adjusted - Right 2. Move remote control handle to full reverse position. Hand Rotation - Left Hand Control 3. Rotate propeller shaft clockwise and manually move 7. Reverse lock valve adjustment shift lever to left (when viewing lever from inside of a. Shift unit into full reverse. While shifting, rotate boat) as far as it will go. This shifts drive unit into propeller shaft counterclockwise until shaft stops, "Reverse" gear. (Figure 25) When rotating propeller to ensure full clutch engagement. shaft, reverse clutch engagement, as shown in Figure b. Loosen 2 nuts on reverse lock lever and move upper 4, will be felt. nut in direction required to line up raised triangular mark on cam with raised triangular mark on reverse lock valve cover. (Figures 22 and 28) Tighten 2 nuts on shift lever. Figure 25. Manually Shifting Stern Drive Unit into Reverse Gear - R.H. Rotation - Left Hand Control NOTE: Be sure to pull lever to left as far as possible to insure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replace ment of sliding clutch and reverse gear. 4. Raise brass barrel of stern drive shift cable up slot in shift lever until remote control shift cable can be reinstalled in shift lever. (Figure 26) 5. Continue to slide brass barrel up slot until slack is removed from remote control shift cable and securely tighten cap screw and nut which fastens brass barrel to shift lever. 2A-12 - REMOVAL. - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT Figure 28. Reverse Lock Valve Adjustment THROTTLE CONTROL CABLE ATTACHMENT MERCRUISER 200 and 225 1. Fasten throttle cable to side and transom of boat with clips to form a gradual bend leading to throttle lever linkage. 2. Place remote control handle in neutral and neutral warmup lever down before attaching cable. NOTE: If knurled pin is in cable guide end, remove pin and spring. 3. Remove nut and one washer from screw which passes thru carburetor throttle lever. 4. Place cable end guide over spacer. Place flat washer and nut on screw and tighten nut securely. (Figures 1, 2 and 4) 03819 Figure 1. Throttle Cable Installed - "200" Figure 2. Throttle Cable Installed - Late Model "225 " 5. Grasp throttle cable behind brass barrei and push toward throttle arm. Adjust brass barrel to align with anchor stud in bracket. Place flat washer, sleeve and barrel on stud. Place flat washer and stop nut on stud and lighten nut securely. (Figures 1, 2 and 4) 6. Check that primary throttle valves are fully open when remote control handle is all the way forward. 7. Set engine idle speed at 500-600 RPM in forward gear bv adjusting idle stop screw on carburetor. Turn screw in to increase RPM: back screw out to decrease RPM. MERCRUISER II 1. Fasten throttle cable to side and transom of boat with clips to form a gradual bend leading to throttle arm. 2. Place remote control handle in neutral and neutral warm-up lever down before attaching cable. 3. Attaching cable end guide and brass barrel: EARLY MODEL CARBURETORS a. Remove roll pin. which passes thru knurled pin in cable end guide, and remove pin and spring. b. Remove nut and one washer from screw which passes thru carburetor throttle lever. c. Place cable end guide over spacer. Place flat washer and nut on screw and tighten nut securely. d. Grasp throttle cable behind brass barrel and push toward throttle arm. Adjust brass barrel to align with anchor stud in bracket. Place flat washer, sleeve and barrel on stud. Place flat washer and stop nut on stud and tighten nut securely. Figure 3. Throttle Cable Installed (Early Models) LATE MODEL CARBURETORS a. Remove roll pin, which passes thru knurled pin in cable end guide, and remove pin and spring. Idle Mixture Screws Figure 4. Throttle Cable Installed - Early Model "225" and Late Model MerCruiser II REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT - 2C-13 b. Attach cable end guide to throttle arm with sleeve, screw and elastic stop nut. c. Position throttle arm so that 2 throttle link pivot points are in line with throttle arm pivot stud. (Fig4) While holding arm in this position, grasp throttle cable behind brass barrel and push toward throttle arm. Adjust brass barrel to align with anchor stud in bracket. Place flat washer, sleeve and barrel on stud. Place flat washer and stop nut on stud and tighten nut securely. RIDE-GUIDE ATTACHING STEERING CABLE to STERN DRIVE UNIT 1. Lubricate steering cable tube end with New Multipurpose Quicksilver Lubricant (C-92-49588). 2. Screw steering pivot yoke into bracket until it seats, then back off one turn to prevent binding when unit is rotated 180°. (Figure 5) 3. Insert cable end thru tube and thread large hand- type fastening nut on loosely. (Figure 5) 4. Remove coupler halves from yoke of steering arm. Do not lose sleeves in yoke. 5. Screw steering arm yoke in until it seats in steering arm, then back out l-to-2 full turns. (Figure 5) This prevents yoke from binding when unit is rotated up 180°. 6. Turn steering wheel so that cable end is out far enough to attach coupler halves into groove at end of cable. 7. Place coupler halves in Ride-Guide cable tube groove and place cable with coupler halves into steering arm yoke. 8. Place sleeves in yoke and insert cap screw from top, securing coupler assembly with elastic stop nut. (Figure 5) NOTE: Late model Ride-Guide cable does not require coupler halves. Cable is secured with cap screw, spacers and elastic stop nuts. (Fig. 5 Insert) 4. Check that primary throttle valves are fully open when remote control handle is all the way forward. Return control handle to neutral and check that throttle valves are fully closed. 5. Set engine idle speed at 500-600 RPM in forward gear by adjusting idle stop screw on carburetor. Turn screw in to increase RPM; back screw out to decrease RPM. STEERING Figure 5. Ride-Guide Steering Attachment ADJUSTING RIDE-GUIDE CABLE 1'. Turn Ride-Guide steering wheel to extreme right position. 2. Steering cable tube must be threaded in fully against yoke lock nut. 3. Turn steering tube out until steering wheel starts to move to left. 4. Secure lock nut on tube against swivel and tighten hand-type fastening nut on cable. RIDE-GUIDE CABLE MEASUREMENT To determine length of Ride-Guide cables, measure from large aluminum nut to 9/16-18 threaded end. (Figure 6) NOTE: When measuring boats for control cable installation, allow additional length for unusual cable routing. It is impossible to arrive at a universal formula for cable lengths because of varying applications. Figure 6. Ride-Guide Cable Measurement 570 - 2 B-14 REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT SECTION 2 - REMOVAL, INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT PART D - MERCRUISER II STERN DRIVE (ENGINE TRANSOM MOUNTED) INDEX Page MerCruiser II (Transom Mounted) Engine Removal ..................................................2D-1 Engine Installation and Alignment 2D-1 MerCruiser 200-225 Stern Drive Installation 2D-3 Transom Plate Installation 2D-3 Shift Cable Installation and Adjustment 2D-4 Shift Cable Dimensions 2D-4 Left Hand Propeller Rotation Drive Unit (Remote Control Mounted on Right "Starboard" Side of Boat) 2D-4 Forward Adjustment 2D-4 Reverse Adjustment 2D-5 Left Hand Propeller Rotation Drive Unit (Remote Control Mounted on Left "Port" Side of Boat)................................................2D-6 Forward Adjustment .2D-6 Reverse Adjustment .2D-6 Right Hand Propeller Rotation Drive Unit (Remote ...........................................2D-7 Control Mounted on Right "Starboard" Side of Boat) .2D-7 Reverse Adjustment .2D-7 Forward Adjustment .2D-7 Right Hand Propeller Rotation Drive Unit (Remote Control Mounted on Left "Port" Side of Boat)...............................................2D-8 Reverse Adjustment 2D-8 Forward Adjustment 2D-8 Throttle Control Cable Attachment 2D-9 MERCRUISER U (TRANSOM MOUNTED) ENGINE REMOVAL NOTE: Stern drive unit must be removed prior to engine 3. Disconnect reverse lock switch wires, trim indicator removal, if engine cannot be moved forward sufficient-switch wires and hydraulic pump motor w:ire from en ly to clear drive shaft. Removal procedure is reverse of gine. installation. 4. Remove water inlet tube and exhaust tubes. 5. Support engine with a suitable sling thru the lifting 1. Disconnect battery cables from batter)' and remove eyes on engine and remove front and rear engine mount- instrument pane! harness connector plug from engine ing bolts. harness receptacle. 2. Disconnect fuel line, throttle and shift control cables. 6. Remove engine. ENGINE INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT NOTE: Prior to installing engine, transom plates must be installed as outlined in stern drive installation, following 1. Place one large steel washer, one double-wound lock- washer and one neoprene washer on top of each inner transom plate engine support. (Figure 1) Figure 1. Washers Positioned on Transom Plate Engine Support 2. Lift engine with an overhead hoist, using a suitable sling and lifting eyes on engine. NOTE: Remove plastic shipping plug from engine coupling spline and lubricate splines with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588) which is supplied with stern drive. 3. Place engine in position over transom plate and relieve hoist tension, as required, to allow rear mounts to rest on engine supports and washers. 4. Place one neoprene washer and one steel washer on top of each engine mount and insert bolts down thru washers, mounts and engine supports. Place one steel washer on each bolt and thread on elastic stop nut. Tighten nut to 100 ft. lbs. (13.8mkg.) (Figure 2) Figure 2. Rear Engine Mount Parts Location 5. Raise or lower front of engine with hoist, as required, to allow alignment rod to be positioned in recess located in inner transom plate and recess located in flywheel housing. (Figure 3) Figure 3. Alignment Rod Position REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT -2 B-116 6. With alignment rod in position and front of engine in Figure 4. Mount height can be adjusted by turning supported with hoist, adjust front engine mounts so bolt "B " in Figure 4 clockwise to lower mount or that mount bases rest on top of boat stringers. Width counter-clockwise to raise mount. of front mount bases can be adjusted by loosening 7. Relieve hoist tension entirely. Fasten each mount screw and nut "A " in Figure 4 on each mount bracket base securely to stringer with three 3/8 " dia. bolts, and sliding mounts in or out. Do not position mounts washers and locknuts. (Figure 4) out away from brackets more than (19mm), as shown 8. Check engine alignment rod fit. Rod should just fit in recesses in inner transom plate and flywheel housing. Rod should not have any fore-and-aft movement but should not be so tight that it cannot be removed by hand. 9. If alignment rod fit is not as described in preceding Step 8, proceed as follows: a. If rod is too loose, raise front of engine by turning adjusting bolt, "B " in Figure 4, on both mounts clockwise. Turn both adjusting bolts an equal amount by alternating from one side to the other until alignment rod fit is correct. b. If rod is too tight, lower front of engine by turning adjusting bolt, "B " in Figure 4, on both mou counterclockwise. Turn both adjusting bolts equal amount by alternating from one side to the other until alignment rod fit is correct. NOTE: Alignment Rod (B-47457J length is 9.775" (24.8cm) (± .010"). 10. Bend tabs of mount adjusting bolt tab washers down over edges of mounts. -2 - REMOVAL-IN ST AI AT I ON-ALI GN MEN T MERCRUISER 200-225 STERN DRIVE INSTALLATION (For Removal, Reverse the Following Procedure.) spline in engine coupling and locating pin with recess in drive. (Figure 6) 4. Hold drive in place and thread clamp nut onto steering drum. NOTE: If, difficult, not force, back after as engagement off by turning cross-threadingof in may threads, oppositeoccur. tightening direction. is Do 5. Use Tightening Bar (C-91-49670) to tighten clamp nut, aligning clamp nut flutes with backing screws. (Figure 7) Snug locking screw and tighten lock nuts. (Figure 3) Figure 5. Lubricating Drive Unit 1. Lubricate bore of outer transom plate, "0 " rings and splined shaft of drive unit with New Quicksilver Lubricant (C-92-49588). (Figure 5) 2. Insert drive unit shift cable and tilt-up switch cable thru opening in transom plates and clamp nut. NOTE: When installing drive unit, place clamp nut over engine coupling with "FORW ARD" tapered end toward flywheel. 3. Push unit into opening, aligning shaft spline with 04273 Figure 7. Clamp Nut Installation Figure 6. Installing Stern D-ive Ur.it Figure 8. Tightening Locking Screws TRANSOM PLATE INSTALLATION Install washers and nuts on bolts and torquenuts evenly to 25-30 ft. lbs. (3.45-4.15mkg). (Figure 9) all 8 Figure 9. Transom Plate Installed REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT -2 B-116 SHIFT CABLE INSTALLATION and ADJUSTMENT Before proceeding wirh the following instructions, be certain that remote control, control cables and Power Shift unit installation is completed according to instructions on preceding pages. IMPORT ANT: Do not attach throttle cable to carburetor until after shift cable installation and adjustment is completed. This stern drive unit is assembled so that the propeller shaft rotation is left hand (counterclockwise when viewed from rear) and must use a left hand propeller. The propeller shaft rotation can be changed to right hand by following instructions outlined under III or IV, following, and installing a right hand propeller. When installing shift cables, it is very important that correct adjustments are made so that remote control station is synchronized with stern drive unit, and fulltained when remote control haverse position. clutchndle is engagement in forward is or atre- SHIFT CABLE DIMENSIONS To obtain maximum adjustability on remote control shift cable, drive unit shift cable dimensions must be checked as follows: 1. With cable end guide removed and unit in full reverse gear, inner core wire of stern drive unit shift cable must extend exactly 1-3/8" (34.9mm) from end of cable guide insert (full forward gear engagement on right hand propeller rotation units). (Figure 1) Figure 1. Inner Core Wire Extension Stern Drive Unit Shift Cable Late Style With cable end guide installed and unit in full forward gear (full reverse gear engagement on right hand pro peller rotation units), the distance from center line of brass barrel to center line of cable end guide mounting hole must be exactly TV (19.7cm). (Figure 2) Readjust brass barrel to achieve this dimension. Figure 2. Center Line to Center Line Dimension 7%" Stern Drive Unit Shift Cable The following instructions individually outline the installation and adjustment of shift cables on the 4 following type installations: 1. Left hand propeller rotation drive unit with remote control mounted on right (starboard) side of boat. II. Left hand propeller rotation drive unit with remote control mounted on left (port) side of boat. III. Right hand propeller rotation drive unit with remote control mounted on right (starboard) side of boat. IV. Right hand propeller rotation drive unit with remote control mounted on left (port) side of boat. Select and follow instructions which apply to installation Type I. II. Ill or IV. I. LEFT HAND PROPELLER ROTATION DRIVE UNIT Remote Control Mounted on Right (Starboard) Side of Boat FORWARD ADJUSTMENT 1. Fasten stern drive shift cable end guicie to mounting stud in shift lever slot and place brass barrel in recess of cutout switch lever, retaining it with cotter key. (Figure 3) 2. Pull top of shift lever to left (when viewed from inside boat) as far as possible while turning propeller shaft clockwise (when viewed from behind boat) until it cannot be turned any further. This shifts stern drive unit into forward gear. (Figure 4) Proper engagement of clutch, as shown in Figure 5, will be felt. CoMeind Anocbed- Link Rod Guide U* Bond UKkioe Screw _ln Cur-Out h lever Figure 3. Installing Shift Cable End Guide and Brass Barrel Figure 4. Manually Shifting into Forward Gear- LH Rotation - RH Control CORRECT INCORRECT INCORRECT Figure 5. Gear Clutch Engagement 2D-4 - REMOVA l_-l N5TALLATION-ALIGNMEN* NOTE: Be sure to pull lever to Left as far as possible to ensure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replacement of sliding clutch and forward gear. 3. Move remote control handle to full forward. 4. Anchor remote control shift cable end guide to shift lever anchor stud with spacer, washer and nut. Pull outer conduit away from cable guide as far as possible to eliminate slack in cable and adjust brass barrel to align with transom mounting stud. (Figure 6) Figure 6. Adjusting Brass Barrel 5. Fasten brass barrel to transom anchor stud with sleeve washers and nut. The remote control and stern drive now are synchronized in "Forward" gear. REVERSE ADJUSTMENT 1. Disconnect remote control shift cable end guide from shift lever. 2. Push top of shift lever to right (when viewed from inside boat) as far as possible while turning propeller shaft (Figure 7) This shifts stern drive unit into reverse gear. Proper engagement of clutch, as shown in Figure 5, will be felt. Figure 8. Reinstalling Shift Cable on Shift Lever NOTE: Be sure to push lever to right as far as possible to ensure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replacement of sliding clutch and reverse gear. 3. Move remote control handle to full reverse. 4. Raise cable end guide of stern drive shift cable up slot in shift lever until remote control shift cable can be reinstalled on shift lever. (Figure 8) 5. Continue to slide cable guide end up slot until slack is removed from remote control shift cables. Tighten anchor stud and nut which fasten control cable guide end to shift lever. Figure 9. Aligning Cam and Valve Marks 6. Reverse lock adjustment a. With unit in full reverse, check for alignment of cam and valve marks. (Figure 9) b. If cam mark and valve marks do not align, loosen 2 nuts on reverse lock lever and move upper nut in direction required to line up raised triangular mark on reverse lock valve cover. Tighten 2 nuts on reverse lock lever. 7. Remove screw which extends thru shift cutout switch lever. (Figure 10) 570 REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT - 2 B-120 Figure 10. Shift Cutout Switch Lever 8. This completes installation of shift cable. II. LEFT HAND PROPELLER ROTATION DRIVE UNIT Remote Control Mounted on Left (Port) Side of Boot FORWARD ADJUSTMENT 1. Fasten stem drive shift cable end guide to mounting stud in shift lever s.ot and place brass barrel in recess of cutout switch lever, retaining it with cotter key. (Figure 3) 2. Pull top of shift lever to left (when viewed from inside boat) as far as possible while turning propeller shaft clockwise (when viewed from behind boat) until it cannot be turned any further. (Figure 4) This shifts stern drive unit into forward gear. Proper engagement of clutch, as shown in Figure 5, will be felt. NOTE: Be sure to pull lever to left as far as possible to ensure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replacement of sliding clutch and forward gear. 3. Move remote control handle to full forward. 4. Anchor remote control shift cable end guide to transom anchor stud with spacer, washer and nut. Push outer conduit away from cable guide as far as poss ble to eliminate slack in cable and adjust brass barrel to align with transom mounting stud. (Figure 11) 5. Fasten brass barrel to shift lever stud with sleeve, washers and nut. The remote control and stern drive now are synchronized in "Forward" gear. REVERSE ADJUSTMENT 1. Disconnect remote control cable end guide from transom anchor stud. 2. Push top of shift lever to right (when viewed from inside boat) as far as possible while turning propeller shaft. (Figure 12) This shifts stem drive unit into reverse gear. Proper engagement of clutch, as shown in Figure 5. will be felt. 04316 Figure 13. Shift Cable Reinstalled on Transom Anchor Stud NOTE: Be sure to push lever to right as far as possible to ensure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replacement of sliding clutch and reverse gear. 3. Move remote control handle to full reverse. 4. Raise cable end guide of stern drive shaft cable up slot in shift lever until remote control shift cable can be reinstalled on transom anchor stud. (Figure 13) 5. Continue to slide cable guide end up slot until slack is removed from remote control shift cable, lighten anchor stud and nut which fasten control cable guide Figure 11. Adjusting Brass Barrel end to shift lever. 2D-6 -REMOVA L-1NSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT 6. Reverse lock adjustment a. With unit in full reverse, check for alignment of cam and valve marks. (Figure 9) b. If cam mark and valve marks do not align, loosen 2 nuts on reverse lock lever and move uoper nut in direction required to line up raised triangular mark on reverse lock valve cover. Tighten 2 nuts on reverse lock lever. 7. Remove screw which extends thru shift cutout switch lever. (F igure 9) 3. This completes installation of shift cable. III. RIGHT HAND PROPELLER ROTATION DRIVE UNIT Remote Control Mounted on Right (Starboard) Side of Boat Convert left hand rotation drive unit to 'ight hand rotation by removing link rod end from reverse lock lever (Figure 14) and reinstall in opposite side of the lever. (Figure 15) it cannot be turned any further. (Figure 4) Proper engagement of clutch, as shown in Figure 5, will be felt. NOTE: Be sure to pull lever to left as far as possible to ensure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replacement of sliding clutch and reverse gear. Figure 16. Adjusting Brass Barrel 3. Move remote control handle to full reverse. 4. Anchor remote control shift cable end guide to transom anchor stud with spacer, washer and nut. Pull outer conduit away from cable guide as far as possible to eliminate slack in cable and adjust brass barrel to align with shift lever mounting stud. (Figure 16) 5. Fasten brass barrel to shift lever stud with sleeve, washers and nut. The remote control and stern drive now are synchronized in "'Reverse" gear. forward adjustment 1. Disconnect remote control shift cable from shift lever. 2. Push top of shift lever to right (when viewed from inside boat) as far as possible while turning propeller shaft. (Figure 7) This shifts stern drive unit into "Forward" gear. Proper engagement of clutch, as shown in Figure 5, will be felt. Figure 15. Reinstalling Link Rod reverse adjustment 1. Fasten stern drive shift cable end guide to mounting stud in shift lever slot and place brass barrel in recess of cutout switch lever, retaining it with cotter key. (Figure 3) 2. Pull top of shift lever to left (when viewed from inside boat) as far as possible while turning propeller shaft clockwise (when viewed from behind boat) until Figure 14. Removing Link Rod NOTE: Be sure to push lever to right as far as possible to ensure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replace ment of sliding clutch and forward gear. removal-installation-alignment - 2d-7 3. Move remote control handle into full forward. 4. Raise cablc end guide of stern drive shift cablc up slot in shift lever until remote control shift cable can be reinstalled on shift lever. (Figure 17) 5. Continue to slide cable guide end up slot unli! slack is removed from remote control shift cables. Tighten anchor stud and nut which fasten control cable guide end to shift lever. 6. Reverse lock adjustment a. Shift unit into full reverse and check for alignment of cam and valve marks. (Figure 18) NOTE: For proper link rod lo reverse lock valve in stallation for right hand rotation, refer lo Figures 14 and 15, preceding. Figure 18. Aligning Cam and Valve Marks b. If cam mark and valve marks do not align, loosen 2 nuts on reverse lock lever and move upper nut in direction required to line up triangular mark on reverse lock valve cover. Tighten 2 nuts on reverse lock lever. 7. Remove screw which extends thru shift cutout switch lever. (Figure 17) 8. This completes installation of shift cable. IV. RIGHT HAND PROPELLER ROTATION DRIVE UNIT Remote Control Mounted on Left (Port) Side of Boct Convert left hand rotation drive unit to right hand rotation unit by removing link rod end from reverse lock lever (Figure 14) and reinstall in opposite side of the lever. (Figure 15) REVERSE ADJUSTMENT 1. hasten stem drive shaft cable end guide to mounting stud in shift lever slot and place brass barrel in recess of cutout switch lever, retaining it with cotter key. (Figure 3) 2. Pull top of shift lever to left (when viewed from inside boat) as far as possible while turning propeller shaft clockwise (when viewed from behind boat) until it cannot be turned any further. (Figure 4) Proper engagement of clutch, as shown in Figure 5. will be felt. NOTE: Be sure to pull lever to left as far as possible to ensure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating 2D-s - REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replacement of sliding clutch and reverse gear. 3. Move remote control handle to full reverse. 4. Anchor remote control shift cable end guide to shift lever stud with spacer, washer and nut. Pull outer conduit avvav from cable guide as far as possible to eliminate s]ack in cable and adjust brass barrel to align with transom anchor stud. (Figure 19) 5. Fasten brass barrel to transom anchor stud with sleeve, washers and nut. The remote control and stem drive now are synchronized in '"Reverse" gear. Figure 19. Adjusting Brass Barrel FORWARD ADJUSTMENT 1. Disconnect remote control shift cable from transom anchor stud. 2. Push top of shift lever to right (when viewed from inside boat) as far as possible while turning propeller shaft. (Figure 7) This shifts stern drive unit into "Forward" gear. Proper engagement of clutch, as shown in Figure 5, will be felt. NOTE: Be sure to push lever to right as far as possible to ensure full engagement of clutch teeth. Operating unit with partial engagement of teeth will cause clutch teeth corners to round off and require replacement of sliding clutch and forward gear. 3. Move remote control handle into full forward. 4. Raise cable end guide of stem drive shift cable up slot in shift lever until remote control shift cable can be reinstalled on transom anchor point. (Figure 17) 5. Continue to slide cable guide end up slot until slack is removed from remote control shift cables. Tighten anchor stud and nut which fasten control cable guide end to shift lever. 6. Reverse lock adjustment a. Shift unit into full reverse and check for alignment of cam and valve marks. (Figure 18) NOTE: For proper link rod to reverse lock valve installation for right hand rotation, refer to Figures 3 and 4, preceding. b. If cam mark and valve marks do not align, loosen 2 nuts on reverse lock lever and move upper nut in direction required to line up triangular mark on reverse lock valve cover. Tighten 2 nuts on reverse lock lever. 7. Remove screw which extends thru shift cutout switch lever. (Figure 10) 8. This completes installation of shift cable. 570 THROTTLE CONTROL CABLE ATTACHMENT 1. Fasten throttle cable to side and transom of boat with 5. Grasp throttle cable behind brass barrel and push to- clips to form a gradual bend leading to throttle lever ward throttle arm. linkage. Adjust brass barrel to align with ancnor stud in brack2. Place remote control handle in neutral and neutral et. Place flat washer, sleeve and barrel on stud. warmup lever down before attaching cable. Place flat washer and stop nut on stud and tighten nut securely. (Figure 1 and 2) NOTE: If knurled pin is in cable guide end, remove 6. Check that primary throttle valves are fully open when pin and spring. remote control handle is all the way forward. 3. Remove nut and one washer from screw which passes 7. Set engine idle speed at 500-600 RPM in forward gear thru carburetor throttle lever. by adjusting idle stop screw on carburetor. Turn screw in to increase RPM; back screw out to decrease RPM. 4. Place cable end guide over spacer. Place flat washer and nut on screw and tighten nut securely. (Figure 1 and 2) Figure 1. Throttle Cable Installed - "200" Figure 2. Throttle Cable Installed - "225" REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT -2 B-124 SECTION 2 - REMOVAL, INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT PART E - MERCRUISER III STERN DRIVE INDEX Page MerCruiser III Engine Removal 2E-1 Engine Installation and Alignment 2E-1 Installing Stern Drive Unit 2E-3 Transom Plate Installation 2E-3 Hydraulic Hose Connections 2E-4 Securing Drive Oil Hose and Filling Reservoir. . . . 2E-4 Throttle and Shift Cable Installation 2E-4 Throttle Coble 2E-4 Shift Cable 2E-4 Installing Combination Trim and Shock Cylinders ... . 2E-5 Power Trim Hose and Reverse Lock Valve 2E-6 Power Trim Hose Connection 2E-6 Reverse Lock Valve Adjustment 2E-6 Ride-Guide Steering Installation 2E-6 Steering Swivel (Starboard Installation) 2E-6 Steering Swivel (Port Installation) 2E-6 MERCRUISER m ENGINE REMOVAL NOTE: Stern drive unit must be removed prior to 3. Disconnect reverse lock switch wire, hydraulic pump engine removal. motor and trim indicator wires from engine. 4. Remove water inlet tube and exhaust tubes. 1. Disconnect battery cables from battery and remove 5. Support engine with a suitable sling thru lifting eyes instrument pane! harness connector plug from engine on engine and remove front and rear engine mounting harness receptacle. bolts. (Figure 1) 2. Disconnect fuel line, throttle and shift control. 6. Remove engine. ENGINE INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT NOTE: Prior to installing engine, transom plates and Ride-Guide Steering must be installed as outlined in "Stern Drive Unit Installation Manual" (C-90-48375). 1. Place one large steel washer, one double-wound lock washer and one neoprene washer on top of each inner transom plate engine support. (Figure 1) 2. Coat large "0 " ring seal, which is located as shown in Figure 2, with New Quicksilver Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). 3. Lift engine with an overhead hoist, using a suitable sling and lifting eyes on engine. Housing "O" Ring Figure 2. Searing Support Housing and "0 " Ring IMPORTANT: Do not relieve hoist tension entirely at this time, as rear engine mounts and bearing support housing may be damaged. 7. Insert rear engine mount bolts up thru transom plate, washers and rear engine mounts. Place one neoprene washer and one smallsteel washer on each mount boll. Thread elastic stop nut on each bolt and torque nut to 100 ft. lbs. (13.8mkg). (Figure 3) Beoring Support Figure 1. Washers Positioned on Transom Plcte Engine Support 4. Position engine ahead of inner transom plate so that bearing support housing and "0 " ring seal (Figure 2) are in line with large opening in inner transom plate. 5. Move engine toward inner transom plate and, at the same time, guide bearing support housing into transom plate opening. Be careful that "0 " ring seal does not become damaged. Continue to move engine toward inner plate until holes in rear engine mounts line up with holes in washers and transom plate engine supports. 6. Relieve hoist tension, as required, to allow rear engine mounts to rest on transom plate engine supports and washers. Figure 3. Rear Engine Mount Parts Location REMOVAL-INSTALL ATION-ALIGNMEN'T - 2E-1 8. Raise or lower front of engine with hoist, as required, to allow alignment rod to be positioned in recess located in inner transom plate and recess located in flywheel housing. (Figure 4) 03675 Figure 4. Alignment Rod Position 9. With alignment rod in position and engine supported with hoist, as outlined in preceding Step 8, front mount stringers should be constructed so that front engine mount bases will rest on top of stringers without disturbing engine alignment when hoist tension is relieved. Width of front engine mount bases can be adjusted by loosening screw and nut "A " in Figure 5 on each mount bracket and sliding mounts in or out. Do not position mounts out away from brackets more than 3/4" (19mm), as shown in Figure 5. Figure 5. Maximum Front Mount Extension 10. Relieve hoist tension entirely. Fasten each mount base securely to stringer with three 3/8" dia. bolts, washers and locknuts. (Figure 6) 11. Check engine alignment rod fit. Rod should just fit in recesses in inner transom plate and flywheel housing. Rod should not have any fore-and-aft movement but should not be so tight that it cannot be removed by- hand. Figure 6. Engine Installed 12. If alignment rod fit is not as described in preceding Step 11, proceed as follows: a. If rod is too loose, raise front of engine by turning adjusting bolt, shown in Figure 6, on both mounts clockwise. Turn both adjusting bolts an equal amount by alternating from one side to the other until alignment rod fit is correct. b. If rod is too tight, lower front of engine by turning adjusting bolt, shown in Figure 6, on both mounts counterclockwise. Turn both adjusting bolts an equal amount by alternating from one side to the other until alignment rod fit is correct. "250" Alignment Rod B-47457 9.775"±. 010" "325" Alignment Rod B-47458 10.712" ±.010" (1" = 25.4mm £metric~2 ) 13. Bend tabs of mount adjusting bolt tab washers down over edges of mounts. 2G-2 -REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT 471R1 INSTALLING STERN DRIVE UNIT (For Removal - Reverse the Following Procedure) 1. Lubricate land on drive shaft housing pilot (Figure 7) and drive shaft splines with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). Apply light coating of lubricant to inside surfaces of bell housing bore. 2. Check that "0 " rings stay seated in grooves for sealing, or leakage will result. (Figure 7) NOTE: Use hoisting equipment to hold drive during installation. 3. Insert stem drive unit into drive shaft housing bell bore (Figure 8) by guiding drive shaft thru guide Figure 8. Inserting Unit into Bell Bore spring in engine drive coupling. If drive shaft splines do not align with engine coupling splines, rotate propeller shaft in either direction slightly until drive unit can be pushed into position. Propeller should be placed on shaft for easier rotation. 4. Fasten drive shaft housing to bell mounting bolts with 6 elastic stop nuts and flat washers. Tighten evenly to 100 ft. lbs. (6.9mkg) torque. Refer to Figure 8TRANSOM PLATE INSTALLATION 1. Place transom gasket on gimbal housing assembly and set assembly and inner transom plate in position over openings in transom as follows: a. Insert switch lead, hydraulic hoses and unit oil hose thru opening in transom and place gimbal housing in position. b. While holding gimbal housing in this position, insert switch lead, hydraulic hoses and unit oil hose thru large opening in inner transom plate and set in position. (Figure 9) 2. Fasten gimbal housing assembly and inner transom plate to transom. a. Place flat washers on studs, protruding thru inner transom plate, and thread on 6 elastic stop nuts. b. Insert 2 carriage bolts, with rubber seals under heads, thru bottom 2 holes of gimbal housing, transom and inner transom plate. CAUTION: Do not attempt to drive cap screws thru transom, as threads in gimbal housing will be damaged. c. Place flat washers on bolts and thread on 2 elastic stop nuts. Figure 7. "0 " Ring Positions Figure 9. Inner Transom Plate Installed REMOVAL-INSTALL ATION-ALIGNMEN'T - 2E-3 3. Tighten elastic stop nuts evenly and torque to (25-30 Hydraulic hose with 90° fitting is secured to port side ft. lbs. (3.45-4.14mkg). of inner transom plate, and hose with straight fitting is secured to starboard side of inner transom plate. (Figure 9) IMPORTANT: Be certain that rubber seals stay seated in groove to properly seal joint, or leakage will result. NOTE: Refer to engine installation manual for connection of hydraulic hoses to reverse lock valve and HYDRAULIC HOSE CCNNECTIONS to hydraulic trim sender and for reverse lock valve 1. Remove cap which is located on end of hydraulic hose adjustment. Early models were not equipped with trim with 90° fitting. Remove threaded plug from pump. sender. 2. Immediately connect hose to pump. DO NOT ALLOW oil to run out of hose and pump. Tighten fitting securely. Refer to Figure 9. SECURING DRIVE OIL HOSE AND FILLING RESERVOIR 3. Clamp hydraulic hoses securely to transom plate at location shown in Figure 9. Use clamp and screw 1. Loosen clamp on drive oil hose, remove plug and con- provided with transom plate. nect hose to fitting on reservoir. (Figure 9) Tighten clamp securely. CAUTION: Failure to secure hoses may cause hy-2. Remove "oil fill" plug and sealing gasket. draulic hoses to become damaged and render 3. Fill reservoir with Quicksilver Super-Duty Gear Lubrisystem inoperative. cant (C-92-52655) until oil reaches level line on gauge. 4. Replace filler plug and sealing gasket. THROTTLE and SHIFT CABLE INSTALLATION Before proceeding with the following instructions, install remote control and throttle and shift cables, as outlined in the instructions which accompany the remote control. THROTTLE CABLE (Figure 10) 1. Place remote control handle in neutral and neutral warmup lever down before attaching cable. 2. Remove roll pin, which passes thru knurled pin in cable end guide and remove knurled pin and spring. 3. Remove nut and one washer from screw which passes thru carburetor throttle lever. 4. Place cable end guide over spacer. Place flat washer and nut on screw and tighten nut securely. 5. Grasp throttle cable behind brass barrel and push toward throttle arm. Adjust brass barrel to align with Figure 10. Throttle Cable Installation 2G-4 - REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT 471R1 Figure 11. Transmission Shift Lever Position - Forward Gear anchor stud in bracket. Place flat washer, sleeve and barrel on stud. Place flat washer and stop nut on stud and tighten nut securely. SHIFT CABLE 1. Place remote control handle in full forward position. 2. Place transmission in forward gear by moving shift cable lever to the right until detent ball, which is located behind transmission shift lever, is positioned in rear hole in transmission shift lever. (Figure 11) 3. Remove roll pin, which passes thru knurled pin in cable end guide, and remove knurled pin and spring from end guide. 4. Place cable end guide on stud which is located in shift cable lever. (Figure 12) 5. Adjust brass barrel on shift cable so that barrel can be placed on anchor stud without disturbing shift cable lever position. (Figure 12) 6. Fasten end guide to shift cable lever stud with flat washer and nut. Tighten nut and then back nut off slightly to allow end guide to pivot freely. (Figure 12) 7. Fasten brass barrel to anchor stud with flat washer and nut. Tighten nut securely.(Figure 12) 8. Place remote control handle in full reverse position. 9. Loosen nut which fastens stud to shift cable lever. Move shift cable lever to the left, while sliding stud down slot in lever, until detent ball is centered in front hole in transmission shift lever. Tighten nut securely. (Figure 13) Figure 12. Shift Cable Installed INSTALLING COMBINATION NOTE: Refer to MerCruiser Service Manual for hydraulic system checks and tests. 1. Insert forward anchor pin thru anchor pin holes in gimbal ring. 2. Place one flat washer and one rubber washer on forward anchor pin on each side of gimbal ring. 3. Insert aft anchor pin thru hole in drive shaft housing and place a large washer and rubber bushing on aft anchorpin on each side of drive shaft hous:ng. (Figure 14) 4. Place cylinders in position on forward and aft anchor pins. Be sure that one small spiral spring is installed Figure 14. Aft Anchor Pin Installed 31 Figure 13. Transmission Shift Lever Position - Reverse Gear 10. Check adjustment by moving remote control handle to full forward. Detent ball must be centered in rear hole in transmission shift lever. (Figure 11) Move control handle to full reverse position. Detent ball must be centered in front hole in transmission shift lever. (Figure 13)) If transmission shift lever is not positioned correctly and does not permit detent ball to be centered in holes, as described previously, readjust cable. TRIM and SHOCK CYLINDERS mmjtM • Figure 15. Drive and Trim Cylinders Installed between rubber bushings on each side of each pin. (Figure 14) 5. Place one rubber bushing in forward and aft end mounting of each cylinder. Small diameter end of bushings face drive shaft housing. 6. Place one flat washer on each end of both cylinders next to rubber bushings. Thread nuts on anchor pins and tighten securely. (Figure 15) 570 REMOVAL-INSTALL A TIOS1-ALIGNMENT - 2E-5 POWER TRIM HOSE and REVERSE LOCK VALVE POWER TRIM HOSE CONNECTION 1. Remove cap from straight fitting, which is located on starboard hydraulic hose, and connect fitting to reverse lock valve as shown in Figure 1. 2. Remove cap from fitting, which is located on short, plastic hydraulic hose, and connect fitting to reverse lock valve as shown in Figure 1. Figure 1. Hose Connections - Reverse Lock Valve Figure 2. Reverse Lock Valve Adjustment REVERSE LOCK VALVE ADJUSTMENT nut in direction required to line up raised triangular 1. Shift unit into full reverse; transmission shift lever mark on cam with raised triangular mark on reverse in reverse detent. lock valve cover. (Figure 2) Tighten 2 nuts on shift 2. Loosen 2 nuts on reverse lock lever and move upper lever. RIDE-GUIDE STEERING INSTALLATION STEERING SWIVEL (Starboard Installation) 1. Steering swivel is mounted with the cable guide tube and locking nut installed to the outside of the steering swivel. 2. Loosen locking nut, turn guide tube out until it can be rotated 180°, then turn guide tube in and temporarily secure locking nut. STEERING SWIVEL (Port Installation) 1. Remove guide tube and locking nut. 2. Remove pivot bolt, swivel pin in bottom of swivel ring with small drift by applying upward pressure. 3. Transfer swivel ring and 2 washers to port steering pivot. 4. Install steering swivel parts in reverse of disassembly. Refer to Figure 3. Figure 3. Attaching Steering Cable to Drive Unit from Left 2G-6 -REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT 471R1 SECTION 2-REMOVAL,INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT PART F - 215-H STERN DRIVE INDEX Page MerCruiser 21 5-H Engine Removal 2F-1 Engine Installation and Alignment* 2F-1 Installing Stern Drive Unit 2F-3 Transom Plate Installation 2F-4 Installing Hydraulic Pump 2F-4 Securing Drive Oil Hose and Filling Reservoir. . . . 2F-4 Throttle Cable Installation 2F-5 Shift Cable Installation 2F-5 Reverse Lock Valve Adjustment 2F-5 Installing Combination Trim and Shock Cylinders. .. . 2F-6 Power Trim Hose Connections 2F-6 Ride-Guide Steering Installation 2F-7 Adjusting Ride-Guide Steering 2F-7 Electrical Wiring 2F-7 Exhaust System Installation 2F-8 MERCRUISER 215-H ENGINE REMOVAL NOT E: Stern drive unit must be removed prior to en-2. Disconnect fuel line, throttle and shift control cables. gine removal, if engine cannot be moved forward suf-3. Disconnect reverse lock switch wires, trim indicator ficiently to clear universal joint shaft. Stern drive switch wires and hydraulic pump wires from engine. removal is the reverse of installation. 4. Remove water inlet tube and exhaust tubes. 5. Support engine with a suitable sling thru the lifting 1. Disconnect battery cables from battery and remove eyes on engine and remove front and rear engine mount- instrument panel harness connector plug from engine ing bolts. harness receptacle. 6. Remove engine. ENGINE INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT 1. Place one steel washer, one double-wound lockwasher 3. Lift engine with an overhead hoist, using a suitable and one neoprene washer on top of each inner transom sling and lifting eyes on engine. plate engine support. (Figure 1) 4. Position engine ahead of inner transom so that tail stock and "0 " ring seal (Figure 2) are in line with large opening in inner transom plate. 5. Move engine toward inner transom plate and, at the same time, guide tail stock into transom plate opening. Be careful that "0 " ring seal does not become damaged. Continue to move engine toward inner plate until holes in rear mounts line up with ho.es in washers and transom plate engine supports. 6. Relieve hoist tension, as required, to allow rear engine mounts to rest on transom plate engine supports and washers. Figure 1. Washers Positioned on Transom Plate Engine Support 2. Coat "0"' ring seal, located as shown in Figure 2, with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). IMPORTANT: DO NOT relieve hoist tension entirely at this time, as rear engine mounts and/or tail stock may be damaged. 7. Insert rear engine mount bolts up thru transom plate, washers and rear engine mounts. Place one neoprene washer and one steel washer on each mount bolt. Thread elastic stop nut on each bolt and torque nut to 100 ft. lbs. (13.8mk g). (Figure 3) 8. Insert end of Alignment Tool Shaft (C-91-57797A1), which has threaded hole, thru opening in bell housing into engine coupling. Insert shaft until it bottoms out in coupling. (Figure 4) 471R1 REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT • 2G-1 04896 Figure 4. Alignment Shaft Installed 9. Position alignment tool plate on shaft, as shown in Figure 5, and slide plate toward bell housing. Raise or lower front of engine with hoist to allow shoulder on plate to enter bel. housing opening. Figure 5. Tool Plate Installed 10. With alignment tool plate positioned in bell housing and engine supported with hoist, front engine mount supports should be constructed so that mounts will rest on top of supports without disturbing alignment tool plate position when hoist tension is relieved. 11. Relieve hoist tension entirely and fasten front mount bases to supports with 3/8 " dia. bolts, washers and locknuts. 12. Push alignment shaft and plate toward engine and, while holding plate against bell housing, check for gap between plate and rear surface of bell housing at 12. 3. 6 and 9 o'clock positions. Engine alignment is correct when there is no gap at any point. If gap exists, proceed as follows: 2G-2 - REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT GAP at 12 O'CLOCK POSITION Raise front of engine by turning adjusting bolt on both front mounts clockwise. (Figure 6) Turn bolts an equal amount by alternating from one side to the other until gap no longer exists. GAP at 6 O'CLOCK POSITION Lower front of engine by turning adjusting bolt on both front mounts counterclockwise. (F'igure 6) Turn both bolts an equal amount by alternating from one side to the other until gap no longer exists. GAP at 3 O'CLOCK POSITION a. I >osen screw and nut ("A " in Figure 6) on both front mounts. b. Loosen both rear mount bolts 2 turns. c. Move front of engine to the right (starboard) until gap no longer exists. IMPORTANT: Mounts must not extend out more than %" (19mm) from mount brackets. (Figure 6) d. Tighten all mount fasteners securely. GAP at 9 O'CLOCK POSITION a. Loosen screw and nut ("A " in Figure 6) on both front mounts. b. Loosen both rear mount bolts 2 turns. c. Move front of engine to the left (port) until gap no longer exists. IMPORTANT: Mounts must not extend out more than (19mm) from mount brackets. (Figure 6) d. Tighten all mount fasteners securely. Mount Bracket Figure 6. Front Engine Mount Adjustments 13. After correct alignment has been attained, bend tabs of adjusting bolt tab washers down over edges of mounts and re-check all mount fasteners to be sure that they are tight. 14. Remove alignment shaft and plate. 471R1 INSTALLING STERN DRIVE UNIT (For Removal - Reverse the Following Procedure.) Gasket Forward Anchor Pin Figure 2. Gasket Position on Bell Housing Studs 4. Fasten drive shaft housing to bell mounting studs with 6 elastic stop nuts and flat washers. Tighten evenly to 80 ft. lbs. (llmkg) torque. (Figure 5) 1. Lubricate drive shaft housing pilot (Figure 1) and drive shaft splines, li O " ring and oil connectors with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). Apply light coat of lubricant to inside surfaces of bell housing bore and position gasket. (Figure 2) 2. Place forward anchor pin in gimbal ring. (Figure 3) NOTE: Use hoisting equipment to hold drive during installation. 3. Insert stern drive unit into drive shaft housing bell bore (Figure 3) by guiding splined shaft thru pilot bearings into transmission. If drive shaft splines do not align with splines, place propeller on shaft and rotate propeller shaft slightly until drive unit can be pushed into position. Figure 3. Inserting Unit into Gimba! Housing REMOVAL-INSTALL ATION-ALIGNMEN'T - 2E-3 TRANSOM PLATE INSTALLATION 1. Lubricate exhaust tube "0 " ring in gimbal housing assembly (Figure 11 and inner transom plate exhaust pilot. (Figure 2) Position them in transom holes, inserting electric leads, hydraulic hoses, unit oil hose and steering link rod thru openings. Hold gimbal housing in position. 2. Fasten gimbal housing and inner transom plate to transom with 8 flat washers and stop nuts, torquing them evenly to 25-30 ft. lbs. (3.46-4.15mkg). (Figure 3) SECURING DRIVE OIL HOSE and FILLING RESERVOIR 1. Slip drive oil hose and clamp over reservoir fitting and tighten clamp securely. (Figure 3) 2. Remove dipstick and fill reservoir with Quicksilver Super-Duty Gear Lubricant (C-92-52655)until oil reaches level line (approx. 2-4 oz.). Do not over-fill. 3. Replace dipstick . r~:gure 1. Exhaust Tube "0 " Ring Lubrication INSTALLING HYDRAULIC PUMP 1. Mount pump bracket to transom plate. (Figure 3) 2. Loosen hose fittings at connector, rotate hoses 180° and retighten fittings. 3. Remove cap and plug to install "Up " hose fitting into pump quickly to prevent loss of oil. (F"igure 3) NOTE: Refer lo engine installation for connection of hydraulic hoses to reverse lock valve and to hydraulic pump. Figure 3. Transom Plate Installation 4R1 2G-6 -REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT THROTTLE CABLE INSTALLATION 1. Place remote control handle in neutral gear, idle position. 2. Connect cable end guide to throttle lever with screw, bushing, washers and nut. (Figure 1) 3. Grasp cable behind brass barrel and push lightlyward throttle lever. Adjust brass barrel to align with anchor stud and fasten barrel to stud with washers and nut. (Figure 1) Figure 1. Throttle Cable Installed to- SHIFT CABLE INSTALLATION IMPORTANT: Shift cable must be adjusted to position handle in full reverse position. Detent ball must be transmission shift lever as outlined in the following, or centered in front hole in transmission shift lever. transmission failure will occur. (Figure 4) If transmission shift lever is not positioned correctly and does not permit detent ball to be 1. Place remote control handle in full forward position. centered in holes, as described previously, readjust 2. Place transmission in forward gear by moving shift cable. cable lever tc the right until detent ball (located behind transmission shift lever) is centered in rear hole in transmission shift lever. (Figure 2) 04871 Figure 3. Shift Cable Installed Figure 2. Transmission Shift Lever Position Forward Gear 3. Place cable end guide on stud which is located in shift cable lever. (Figure 3) 4. Adjust brass barrel on shift cable so that barrel can be placed on anchor stud without disturbing shift cable lever position. (Figure 3) 5. Fasten end guide to shift cable lever stud with flat washer and nut. Tighten nut and then back nut off slightly to allow end guide to pivot freely. (Figure 3) 6. Fasten brass barrel to anchor stud with flat washer and nut. Tighten nut securely. (Figure 3) 7. Place remote control handle in full reverse position. 8. Loosen nut \\h ich fastens stud to shift cable lever. Move shift cable lever to the left, while sliding stud down slot in lever, until detent ball is centered in front hole in transmission shift lever. Tighten nut securely. (Figure 4) 9. Check adjustment by moving remote control handle to full forward. Detent ball must be centered in rear hole in transmission shift lever. (Figure 2) Move control Figure 4. Transmission Shift Lever Position Reverse Gear REVERSE LOCK VALVE ADJUSTMENT Refer to "Accessories" Section 7. REMOVAL-INSTALUATIO\-Ai_!GNMEN~ - 2=-5 INSTALLING COMBINATION TRIM and SHOCK CYLINDERS 1. Place a flat washer, rubber bushing and one spiral 4. Place rubber bushings in forward and aft end of each spring on each side of forward anchor pin. cylinder. 2. Install aft anchor pin, large washer, rubber bushing 5. Place flat washer on each end of both anchor pins. Install nuts and tighten securely. (Figure 2) and one spiral spring on each side of aft anchor pin. (Figure 1) 3- Place cylinders on anchor pins. NOTE: Be sure that one small spiral spring is installed between rubber bushings on each side of both forward and aft anchor pins. (Figure 1) They are required to ground cylinders to drive. POWER TRIM HOSE CONNECTIONS NOTE: Reverse loch valve and hoses are filled with oil. Make all connections as quickly as possible to prevent oil from draining out. 1. Connect gray hose to reverse lock valve as follows: (Figure 3) a. Remove shipping plug and plastic seal from reverse lock valve. b. Route gray hose under cable anchor bracket. Remove cap from end of hose and connect hose to reverse lock valve. 2. Connect black hose to reverse lock valve as follows: (Figure 3) a. Remove ball from reverse lock valve. b. Route black hose between shift cable and cable anchor bracket. Remove cap from end of hose and connect hose to reverse lock valve. Figure 2. Drive and Trim Cylinders Instailed Figure 3. Power Trim Hose Connections Reverse Lock Valve 6R1 2G-6 - REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT RIDE-GUIDE STEERING INSTALLATION 1. Connect steering link rod with pivot bolt in rod, flat washer and curved washer to steering lever. (Figure 4) Align curved washer and tighten nut. 2. Lubricate inside of cable guide tube with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). Figure 5. Ride-Guide Steering Cable Attached from Right Figure 4. Connecting Steering Link Rod 3. Insert cable end thru tube and thread large hand-type fastening nut on tube securely. (Figure 5 or 6) NOTE: To attach steering cable from left, remove Ride-Guide tube and reinstall on transom. (Figure 6) 4. Attach steering link rod to cable end and torque to 12 ft. lbs. (1.7mkg). 5. It is necessary to adjust steering after engine and drive unit are installed. See "Adjusting Ride-Guide Steering", following. Figure 6. Ride-Guide Steering Cable Attached from Left ADJUSTING RIDE-GUIDE STEERING or right to allow for full traverse. Tighten adjusting NOTE: Power Steering is recommended for dual in- nuts securely. (Figure 5 or 6 under "Ride-Guide Steering stallations. Installation", preceding) 1. Turn steering wheel to full left and right. Drive unit 2. Turn steering wheel until drive unit is centered. If, at should traverse fully in both directions. If unit turns this point, steering wheel is not centered correctly, further in one direction than other, loosen lock nuts readjust cable guide tube to center steering wheel, and hand-fastening nut and move cable guide tube left then recheck Step 1. ELECTRICAL WIRING NOTE: Refer to "Electrical System" Section 3. REMOVAL-INSTALL ATION-ALIGNMEN'T -2E-7 EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION Figure 7. Exhaust System Installation 04962 Connect exhaust elbows and bellows to transom plate and manifold elbows as shown in Figure 7. Torque exhaust elbow toft. lbs. (2.77-3.46mkg). transom plate screws to 20-25 2F-8 - REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT SECTION 2 - REMOVAL, INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT PART G - 215-E STERN DRIVE INDEX Page MerCruiser 215-E Engine Removal 2G-1 Engine Instal lation and Alignment 2G-1 Installing Stern Drive Unit 2G-3 MerCruiser 215-E Clutch Plate Realignment 2G-4 Installing Unit Shifter Shaft Transom Plate InstallationInstalling Hydraulic PumpSecuring Drive Oil Hose and Filling Exhaust System InstallationThrottle Cable Installation Power Trim Hose Connections Shift Control Wiring ConnectionsInstalling Combination Trim andRide-Guide Steering InstallationAdjusting Ride-Guide SteeringAdjusting Power Steering 2G-5 2G-6 2G-6 Reservoir 2G-7 2G-7 2G-8 2G-8 2G-8 Shock Cylinders 2G-9 2G-10 2G-10 2G-10 Electrical Wiring 2G-10 MERCRUISER 215-E ENGINE REMOVAL NOTE: Stern drive unit must be removed prior to engine removal, if engine cannot be moved forward sufficiently to clear universal joint shaft. Stern drive removal is the reverse of installation. 1. Disconnect baltery cables from batter)7, remove instrument panel harness connector plug from engine harness receptacle and disconnect shift wire connections from terminal block on shift actuator. 2. Disconnect fuel line and throttle cables. 3. Disconnect reverse lock switch wires, trim indicator switch wires and hydraulic pump wires from engine. 4. Remove water inlet tube and exhaust tubes. 5. Support engine with a suitable sling thru the lifting eyes on engine and remove front and rear engine mounting bolts. 6. Remove engine. ENGINE INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT NOTE: Prior to instailing engine, transom plates must be installed as outlined in "Stern Drive Installation Manual" DO NOT connect steering link rod to Ride- Guide cable or Power Steering cylinder until AFTER engine alignment has been completed. Support 1. Place one steel washer, one double-wound lockwasher and one neourene washer on top of each inner transom plate engine support. (Figure 1) 3. Lift engine with an overhead hoist, using a suitable sling and lifting eyes on engine. 4. Position engine ahead of inner transom plate so that flywheel housing and "0 " ring seal (Figure 2) are in line with large opening in inner transom plate. 5. Move engine toward inner transom plate and, at the same time, guide flywheel housing into transom plate opening. Be careful that "0 " ring seal does not become damaged. Continue to move engine toward inner plate until holes in rear engine mounts line up with holes in washers and transom plate engine supports. 6. Relieve hoist tension, as required, to allow rear engine mounts to rest on transom plate engine supports and washers. IMPORTANT: Do not relieve hoist tension entirely at this lime, as rear engine mounts and flywheel housing may be damaged. 7. Insert rear engine mount bolts up thru transom plate, washers and rear engine mounts. Place one neoprene washer and one steel washer on each mount bolt. Thread elastic stop nut on each bolt and torque nut to 100 ft. lbs. (13.8mkg). (Figure 3) 8. Insert end of Alignment Tool Shaft (C-91-57797A1), which has threaded hole, thru opening in bell housing Figure 2. Flywheel Housing and "0 " Ring 2. Coat "0 " ring seal, which is located as shown in Figure 2. with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). Figure 3. Rear Engine Mount Parts Location REMOVAL - INSTALLATION - ALIGNMENT - 2G-1 into engine coupling. Insert shaft until it bottoms out in coupling. (Figure 4) 9. Position alignment tool plate on shaft, as shown in Figure 5, and slide olate toward bell housing. Raise or lower front of engine with hoist to allow shoulder on plate to enter bell housing opening. 04896 Figure 4. Alignment Shaft Installed Figure 5. Tool Plate Installed 10. With alignment tool plate positioned in bell housing and engine supported with hoist , front engine mount supports should be constructed so that mounts will rest on top of supports without disturbing alignment tool plate position when hoist tension is relieved. 11. Relieve hoist tension entirely and fasten front mount bases to supports with 3'8 " dia. bolts, washers and locknuts. 12. Push alignment shaft and plate toward engine and, while holding plate against bell housing, check for gap between plate and rear surface of bell housing at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions. Engine alignment is correct when there is no gap at any point. If gap exists, proceed as follows: GAP AT 12 O'CLOCK POSITION Raise front of engine by turning adjusting bolt on both front mounts clockwise. (Figure 6) Turn bolts an equal amount by alternating from one side to the other until gap no longer exists. GAP AT 6 O'CLOCK POSITION Lower front of engine by turning adjusting bolt on both front mounts counterclockwise. iFigure 6) Turn both bolts an equal amount by alternating from one side to the other until gap no longer exists. GAP AT 3 O'CLOCK POSITION a. Loosen screw and nut ("A " in Figure 6) on both front mounts. b. Loosen both rear mount bolts 2 turns. c. Move front of engine to the right (starboard) until gap no longer exists. IMPORTANT: Mounts must not extend out more than (19nim) from mount brackets. (Figure 6) d. Tighten all mount fasteners securely. GAP AT 9 O'CLOCK POSITION a. Loosen screw and nut ("A " in Figure 6) on both front mounts. b. Loosen both rear mount bolts 2 turns. c. Move front of engine to the left (port) until gap no longer exists. IMPORTANT: Mounts must not extend out more than %"(19mm) from mount brackets. (Figure 6) d. Tighten all mount fasteners securely. Figure 6. Front Engine Mount Adjustments 13. After correct alignment has been attained, bend tabs of adjusting bolt tab washers down over edges of mounts and re-check all mount fasteners to be sure that thev are tight. 14. Remove alignment shaft and plate. 2G-2 -REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT 471R1 INSTALLING STERN DRIVE UNIT (For Removal - Reverse the Following Procedure) IMPORTANT: Drive units are set up for left hand propeller shaft rotation in forward gear. If right hand propeller shaft rotation is required, complete Step No. 3, following. CAUTION: Operating shift without drive unit installed will cause clutch plate misalignment. 00 NOT con nect electrical shift control harness leads to actuator box unless batten,' is disconnected or the fuse is re moved from the holder in red lead which is located over the engine flywheel housing. Allow these leads to be disconnected until drive unit is installed. If clutch plate has moved out of position, an Engine Alignment Shaft (C-91-57797Al) with Clutch Alignment Tool (C 91-57795) will be necessary to realign the clutch plate, following. 1. Stem drive propeller shaft rotation is set for left hand. If right hand rotation is desired, complete the following: a. Remove stop screw from shifter gear at left hand positioning hole. (Figure 1) b. Install stop screw with Loctite "A " (C-92-32609-1) in shifter gear thru right hand position hole. (Figure 1) c. Rotate shifter gear shaft clockwise with small screwdriver until stop screw butts against stop and is visable at left hand positioning hole. This is forward gear for right hand rotation. d. Be sure to use propeller of proper rotation, as indicated on propeller chart. Figure 2. Installation Lubrication Points Figure 1. Changing Drive Propeller Shaft Rotation 2. Lubricate land on drive shaft housing pilot (Figure 2), Figure 3. Lubricating Bell Housing Bore •'0" ring and oil and shift connectors with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). Apply a light coat of NOTE: Do not lubricate drive shaft splines. lubricant to inside surfaces of bell housing bore and position gasket. (Figure 3) 3. Place forward anchor pin in gimbal ring. (Figure 3) REMOVAL-INSTALL ATION-ALIGNMEN'T -2E-3 NOTE: If drive shaft splines do no: align with clutch disc splines, rotate universal joint shaft slightly until drive can be pushed into bell housing. If stern drive still cannot be pushed into position, complete "Clutch Plate Realignment", following. 8. Install unit shifter shaft, following. 9. Check shift harness connection to actuator box. 10. Reinstall fuse infuse holder over engine flywheel hous- Figure 4. Installing Stern Drive 6. Insert squared end of shifter shaft into connector shaft (Figure 4) DO NOT turn connector shaft in stern drive to insert shifter cable. 7. Push stern drive completely into bell housingand fasten housing to bell mounting studs with 6 elastic stop nuts and flat washers. Tighten evenly to 80 ft. lbs. (Ilmkg) torque. Figure 5. Cable Attached to Safety Clutch MERCRUISER 215-E CLUTCH PLATE REALIGNMENT If the MerCruiser 215-E electric shift is activated with-2. Remove fuse from holder in red lead (located over en- out the drive unit installed, the engine clutch plate will gine flywheel housing) to prevent a possible shift cycle drop out of position. The drive universal joint shaf t holds without the drive installed. the clutch plate in position when it is released during the 3. Remove alignment tools and install drive unit. shifting cycle. When the clutch plate is out of position, the drive unit IMPORTANT: Leave this fuse disconnected when the cannot be installed. In order to reposition, Clutch Plate drive unit is not installed. Alignment Tool (C-91-57795) must be used in end of Engine Alignment Shaft (C-91-57797A1). Realign as follows: * To manually release clutch plate, remove fuse from 1. Insert Engine Alignment Shaft with Clutch Alignment holder (located over engine flywheel housing) and Tool thru clutch plate splines with the electric shift turn safety clutch toward forward gear (in direction control connected and placed in neutral position*. of decal arrow) until it reaches a firm stop. Then, When the tool is fully thru clutch plate, shift the con-turn clutch in opposite direction until clutch plate trol into forward*. This will hold clutch plate in align-is released. After positioning plate with alignment ment. tool, return safety clutch to forward gear (as above). CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT CHECK - MerCruiser 215E If stem drive unit does not shift smoothly when engine is operating, the clutch requires adjustment The 215E model requires a clutch adjustment check after the first 20 hours of operation. CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT CHECK 1. Place electric MerControl in forward gear and remove fuse from fuse holder (located in wire over engine flywheel housing). 2. Loosen locknut on clutch lever and turn adjusting screw- out /4-turn, then tighten locknut and reinstall fuse. (Figure 6) Figure 6. Clutch Lever Assembly 2G-6 - REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT 4R1 3. Start engine, shift into reverse gear, then into forward gear. IMPORTANT: DO NOT turn adjusting screw out more Adjust clutch again, if necessary, to obtain smooth than 54-turn at a time or more than required to smooth-out shifting. shifting. Over-adjustment will cause clutch drag in neutraL EMERGENCY MANUAL SHIFT OPERATION MerCruiser 215E IMPORTANT: If shifting electric MerControl becomes difficult or impossible, the stern drive can be shifted manually into forward gear by accomplishing the following: 1. Remove fuse from fuse holder (located in wire over engine flywheel housing). 2. Turn safety clutch in direction of decal arrow until it reaches a firm stop. Drive then will be in forward gear. 3. Remove jumper wedge from holder on rear of port rocker cover. 4. Jam wedge between 2 yellow color-coded terminals on port side of shift actuator box. This will allow engine to be started while "in gear". (Figure 7) WARNING: When restarting engine, place throttle in idle. Remember that stern drive is in gear! Cautiously stop and start engine to control forward motion of boat, as drive cannot be shifted into reverse gear. INSTALLING UNIT SHIFTER SHAFT Figure 7. Jumper Clip Installation 05192 CAUTION: Electric shift control harness should not be connected without drive unit installed. 1. Routing a. Route LONG flexible shaft and cable housing under engine mount without sharp bends thru brackets (Figure 8) to actuator box safety clutch. b. Route SHORT cable housing over engine mount (Figure 9) thru bracket to safety clutch. 2. Insert flexible shaft fully into safety clutch cover (Figure 5) and tighten lock screw to 55 in. lbs. (9.76kg/cm). IMPORTANT: DO NOT turn flexible shaft to align with safety clutch cover. If squared shaft end is not aligned, rotate safety clutch to forward gear stop (in direction of decal arrow). Loosen 3 screws in safety- clutch cover (Figure 5) and rotate in slots until shaft can be installed. Tighten 3 screws to 24 in. lbs. (4.26 kg/cm) and bend tabs to lock screws. 3. Attach electrical leads from shift control. 7 4. Cycle shift control 2 times to automatically set shift Figure 8. Routing Long Flexible Shaft synchronization. 471R1 REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGNMENT • 2G-5 TRANSOM PLATE INSTALLATION 1. Lubricate exhaust tube "0 " ring in gimbal housing assembly (Figure 1) and inner transom plate exhaust pilot. (Figure 2) Position them in transom holes, inserting switch leads, hydraulic hoses, unit oil hose, shifter control cable and steering link rod thru openings. Hold gimbal housing in position. Figure 2. Inner Transom Plate 2. Fasten ginbal housing and inner transom plate to transom with 8 flat washers and stop nuts, torquing them evenly to25-30 ft. lbs. (3.46-4.15mkg). (Figure 3) INSTALLING HYDRAULIC PUMP 1. Mount pump to floor of boat with floor mounting bracket Hydraulic and 6 lag screws provided (Figures 3 and 4) within Hoses reach of pump hydraulic lines (Figure 3) or mount pump to transom of boat with transom mounting brackets and 2 carriage bolts provided. NOTE: Hydraulic pump may be mounted on port side of transom plate. Exhaust Pilot Lubrication Figure 1. Exhaust Tube "0 " Ring Lubrication Figure 3. Transom Plate Installation (Hydraulic Pump Mounted on Starboard Side) 2G-6 - REMOVAL-INSTALLATiON-ALiGNMENT NOTE: The 2 drilled holes for the transom mounting pump brackets must be perpendicular to the transom. 2. Loosen 90° fittings at connector, turn hoses away from each other (Figure 3) and retighten fittings. 3. Install (black) "up " hose fitting into pump. (Figure 3) SECURING DRIVE OIL HOSE and FILLING RESERVOIR 1. Slip drive oil hose and clamp over reservoir fitting and tighten clamp securely. (Figure 3) 2. Remove dipstick and fill reservoir with Quicksilver Super-Duty Gear Lubricant (C-92-52655) until oil reaches level line (approx. 2-4 oz.). Do not over-fill. 3. Replace dipstick. Figure 4. Locating and Mounting ------------> Hydraulic Pump Bracket EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Connect exhaust elbows and bellows to transom plate and manifold elbows as shown in Figure 5. 2. Connect ground wire to right side exhaust elbow attaching screw. (Figure 5) 3. Torque exhaust elbow to transom plate screws to20-25 ft. lbs. (2.77-3.46mkg). Figure 5. Exhaust System Installation (Right Side Shown) INSTALLATION REMOVAL-INSTALL ATION-ALIGNMEN'T - 2E-7 THROTTLE CABLE INSTALLATION Before proceeding with the following instructions, install remote control throttle cable as outlined in instructions which accompany control. 1. Place remote control handle in neutral gear, idle position . 2. Connect cable end guide to throttle lever with screw, bushing, washers and nut. (Figure 1) 3. Grasp cable behind brass barrel and push lightly toward throttle lever. Adjust brass barrel to align with anchor stud and fasten barrel to stud with washers and nut. (Figure 1) ^^ Figure 1. Throttle Cable Installed POWER TRIM HOSE CONNECTIONS NOTE: Reverse lock valve and hoses are filled with oil. Make all connections as quickly as possible to prevent oil from draining out. 1. Connect gray hose (from transom plate) to reverse lock valve as follows: (Figure 2) a. Remove shipping plug and plastic seal from reverse lock valve fitting. b. Remove shipping cap from end of hose and connect hose to reverse lock valve. 2. Connect black plastic hose (from trim pump) to reverse lock valve as follows: (Figure 2) a. Remove shipping plug and ball from reverse lock valve fitting. b. Remove shipping cap from hose and connect hose to reverse lock valve. SHIFT CONTROL WIRING CONNECTIONS IMPORTANT: Stern drive unit must be installed as outlined in Stern Drive Unit Installation Manual , and battery cables must be disconnected from battery prior lo connecting shift control wiring to shift actuator. This is extremely important, as operation of shift actu ator without drive unit installed will cause clutch plate misalignment. 1. Connect ring terminals (located on shift control harness) to terminals on shift actuator, matching lead and terminal colors. (Figure 3) 2. Remove center shift actuator cover attaching screw. Insert screw thru shilt control harness ground clip and reinstall screw. (Figure 3) Figure 3. Shift Control Wiring Connections Figure 2. Power Trim Hose Connections Reverse Lock Valve 2g-8 -removal-installation-alignment INSTALLING COMBINATION TRIM and SHOCK CYLINDERS 1. Place a flat washer, rubber bushing and one spiral 4. Place rubber bushings in forward and aft end of each spring on each side of forward anchor pin. cylinder. 2. Install aft anchor pin, large washer, rubber bushing 5. Place flat washer on each end of both anchor pins. In- and one spiral spring on each side of aft anchor pin. stall nuts and tighten securely. (Figure 5) (Figure 4) Figure 4. Aft Anchor Pin Installed 3. Place cylinders on anchor pins. NOTE: Be sure that one small spiral spring is installed between rubber bushings on each side of both forward and aft anchor pins. (Figure 4) They are required to ground cylinders to drive. Figure 5. Drive and Trim Cylinders Installed REMOVAL-INSTALL ATION-ALIGNMEN'T - 2E-7 RIDE-GUIDE STEERING INSTALLATION 1. Connect steering link rod with pivot bolt in rod, flat washer and curved washer to steering lever. (Figure 6) Align curved washer and tighten nut. 2. Lubricate inside of cable guide tube with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). Pivot Bolt Figure 7. Ride-Guide Steering Cable Attached from Right Figure 6. Connecting Steering Link Rod 3. Insert cable end thru tube and thread large hand-type fastening nut on tube securely. (Figure 7 or 8) NOTE: To attach steering cable from left, remove Ride-Guide tube and reinstall on transom. (Figure 8) 4. Attach steering link rod to cable end and torque to 12 ft. lbs. (1.7mkg). 5. It is necessary to adjust steering after engine and drive unit are installed. See "Adjusting Ride-Guide Steering", following. ADJUSTING RIDE-GUIDE STEERING NOTE: Power Steering is recommended for installa-or right to allow for full traverse. Tighten adjusting tions. nuts securely. (Figure 7 or 8 under "Ride-Guide Steering Installation", preceding) 1. Turn steering wheel to full left and right. Drive unit 2. Turn steering wheel until drive unit is centered. If, at should traverse fully in both directions. If unit turns this point, steering wheel is not centered correctly, further in one direction than other, loosen lock nuts readjust cable guide tube to center steering wheel, and hand-fastening nut and move cable guide tube left then recheck Step 1. ADJUSTING POWER STEERING Refer to Section 7, Part B, "Power Steering". ELECTRICAL WIRING NOTE: Refer to "Electrical System", Section 3. Figure 8. Ride-Guide Steering Cable Attached from Left 2G-10 -REMOVA L-l NSTA L L AT ION-A LiGNMENT SECTION 2 - REMOVAL, INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT PART H - "888" STERN DRIVE INDEX Page MerCruiser "888" Engine 2H-1 Removal 2H-1 Installation and Alignment 2H-1 Transom Plate Installation 2H-2 Mounting Hydraulic Pump 2H-4 Installing Stern Drive Unit 2H-5 Throttle Cable Installation 2H-6 A. Remote Control Mounted on Right Side 2H-7 B. Remote Control Mounted on Left Side 2H-8 Installing Combination Trim and Shock Cylinders 2H-9 Ride-Guide Steering Installation 2H-9 Adjusting Ride-Guide Steering 2H-10 MERCRUISER "888" ENGINE REMOVAL NOTE: Stern drive must be removed prior to engine removal. 1. Disconncct batten.- cables from battery and remove instrument panel harness connector plug from engine harness receptacle. 2. Disconnect fuel line and throttle and shift control cables. INSTALLATION NOTE: It is necessary that the transom plates and exhaust elbows are installed before proceeding with "Engine Installation and Alignment". 1. Place one double-wound lockwasher and one fiber washer on top of each inner transom plate engine support. (Fig. 1) Figure 1. Washers Positioned on Transom Plate Engine Supports 2. Remove plastic shipping plug from engine coupling spline. 3. Lift engine w ith an overhead hoist, using a suitable sling and lifting eyes on engine. Engine must be suspended so that rear end is slightly lower than front, and front mounts art- level. Figure 2. Rear Engine Mount Parts Location 3. Disconnect reverse lock switch wires, trim indicator wires and hydraulic pump wires from engine. 4. Remove water inlet tube and exhaust tubes. 5. Support engine with a suitable sling thru the lifting eyes on engine and remove front and rear engine mounting bolts. 6. Remove engine. and ALIGNMENT Figure 3. Alignment Shaft Installed 4. Lower engine into position over transom plate and. wink- lowering. connect exhaust bellows to exhaust elbows. Allow rear engine mounts lo rest on transom plate engine supports. Do not relieve hoist tension. 5. Place one steel washer and one spacer on each rear mount bolt and insert bolts down thru engine mounts, washers and mounting brackets. Thread elastic stop nuts on bolts and tighten to 35 to 40 ft. lbs. (4.83 to 5.52 mkg). (Figure 2) ft. Tighten exhaust bellows clamps securelv. (Figure 2) 7. Insert end of Alignment Tool (C-91-57797A1) shaft (end without threaded hole) thru gimbal bearing. (Figure 3) Move gimbal bearing with shaft to align >haft with coupling spline and raise or lower front of engine with hoist to allow shaft to enter spline freely. Insert shaft into coupling. After preliminary alignment has been attained, remove alignment shaft and proceed as follows. NOTE: If front mount bases contact stringers when lowering front of engine, turn mount adjusting bolts (Figure 4) counterclockwise to raise bases up, away from stringers. Preliminary alignment must be made with front of engine supported evenly with hoist and mount bases not contacting stringers. REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGN ME NT -2H-1 8. Adjust mount bases to match stringers by loosening screw and nut ("A " in Figure 4) and sliding mounts in-or-out as required. IMPORTANT: Mounts must not extend out more than 3/i" (19mm) from mount brackets. (Figure 4) 9. Turn adjusting bolt on both front mounts clockwise to lower mounts (Figure 4) until mount bases contact top of stringers. At this point, stop turning bolts and place a reference mark on each bolt head. Turn each boll clockwise one full turn. to perform final engine alignment and re-alignment after boat has been in service. 10. Relieve hoist tension and fasten front mount bases securely to stringers. 11. Recheck alignment shaft fit Shaft must enter engine coupling freely. If not. turn both front mount adjusting bolts an equal amount by alternating from one side to the other until shaft enters coupling spiine freely. 12. Bend tabs of adjusting bolt tab washers down over edges of mounts and recheck all mount fasteners to be sure that they are tight. 13. Place hose damp on water inlet hose and connect hose to water inlet tube. Tighten hose clamp securely. (Figure 5) Figure 4. Front Engine Mount Adjustments NOTE: Top surface of stringers must be located so that a minimum of'/i" (6.35mm) up-or-down adjustment remains when mount bases are resting on stringers. This is required TRANSOM PLATE INSTALLATION 1. Set gimbal housing assembly and inner transom pkte in position over openings in transom as follows: a. Insert shift cable, switch lead and hydraulic hose thru opening in transom and place gimbal housing in position. (Figure 5) CAUTION: If gimbal housing is held in position by the switch leads while fastening inner transom plate, switch lead or switch could be damaged. b. While holding gimbal housing in this position, insert shift cable and hydraulic hose thru large opening and insert switch leads thru small hole in inner transom plate, then set plate in position. (Figure 6) 2. Fasten gimbal housing assembly and inner transom plate to transom as follows: a. Thread 2 short cap screws with lockwashers thru top 2 holes of inner transom plate into gimbal housing. (Figure 6) See "CAl TIOV" under "e". following. b. Insert 2 special anode head bolls with rubber seals under CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to drive cap screws heads thru bottom 2 holes of gimbal housing, transom thru transom, as threads in gimbal housing will be and inner transom plate. damaged. c. Place Mat washers on bolts and thread on 2 elasticstop nuts. d. Place flat washers on 2 studs, which protrude thru inner 3. Tighten cap screws and elastic slop nut:- evenly and torque transom plate, and thread on 2 elastic stop nuts. lo 20-25 ft. lbs. (2.7mkg-3.45mkg). e. Thread 2 long cap screws with square flat washers and 4. Mount hvdraulic sender assembly on transom plate (Figure lockwashers thru remaining holes in inner transom plate 6) with 2 screws and lockwashers arid tighten securely. into gimbal housing. Square washers should be against 5. Install exhaust separator (with exhaust elbows attached) to transom plate. gimbal housing, following: 2H-2 - REMOVAL-INSTALL AT ION-ALIGN ME NT a. Be certain that mating surfaces on exhaust separator and gimbal housing are clean and that "0 " rings are properly seated in grooves. (Figure 7) 06704 b. Place 5 hex head screws with lockwashers thru separator into gimbal housing. (Figure 8) Torque screws evenlv to 20-25 ft. lbs. CAUTION: Be sure that "0 " rings remain seated in grooves to properly seal joint, or leakage will occur. 6. Place hose clamps over each rubber exhaust tube and attach a tube on each cast exhaust elbow. (Figure 9) Tighten tube clamps securely. REMOVAL-INSTALL ATION-ALIGNMEN'T - 2E-7 MOUNTING HYDRAULIC PUMP NOTE: Hydraulic pump may be mounted on port or starboard floorboards or on transom. I. Mount pump to floor of boat with floor mounting bracket and 6 lag screws provided within reach of pump hydraulic lines (Figure 10) or mount pump to transom of boat with transom mounting bracket and 2 carriage bolts provided. NOTE: The 2 drilled holes for transom pump mounting brackets must be perpendicular to transom. 06085 Figure 10. Typical Mounting Pump to Floor of Boat 2. Route hydraulic hoses toward pump in position as shown in Figure 9. NOTE: If hydraulic pump is mounted to port side of engine, route "up" hydraulic hose toward the hydraulic pump. NOTE: DO NOT allow oil to drain thru fittings during connection. Tighten all fittings securely. 3. Remove cap from fitting (located on end of black hydraulic hose), remove threaded plug from hydraulic pump and immediately connect hose. 4. Connect hydraulic line from pump to trim sender (Figure 9) after removing plug from sender and cap from line. NOTE: The "down" hydraulic hose and line are connected after engine is installed. IMPORTANT: Failure to comply with preceding Steps 1-2-3-4 may cause hydraulic hose to become damaged and render hydraulic system inoperative. 5. Connect gray hydraulic hose to reverse lock valve after removing cap from hose fitting and plug from valve. (Figure 11) 6. Connect hydraulic line from reverse lock valve (mounted on flywheel housing) to shaft end of trim sender after removing cap from line and plug from sender. (Figure 11) 7. Loosen pump reservoir vent screw. (Figure 9) Note that vent must be open for proper operation. 8. With unit down all the way in normal operating position, check oil level by removing "Fill" screw. If necessary, fill to bottom of threads with Formula 4 SAE 20W Quicksilver Oil (C-92-33157-1) or an SAE 20-20W specification MS automotive oil. DO NOT overfill. 9. Replace "Fill" screw. 2G-4 - REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT 471R1 INSTALLING STERN DRIVE UNIT CAUTION: Check Engine Alignment with Engine Alignment Shaft (C-91-57797A1) before Installing Stern Drive Unit. 1. Lubricate shifting slide assembly. (Figure 1) NOTE: Slide assembly is free to rotate on core wire, so be sure that slide is located in the upright position during installation. Figure 1. Lubricating Shifting Slide Assembly 2. Lubricate land on drive shaft housing pilot (Figure 2) and drive shaft splines with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). Apply light coating of lubricant to inside surfaces of bell housing bore. CAUTION: If locating slot of shift lever in bell housing and coupler of intermediate shift shaft in drive shaft housing are not aligned as described in Steps 5 and 6, following, bell housing and shift shaft couplers will be damaged when drive unit is installed. 3. Align locating slot of shift lever coupler in bell housing straight to rear by moving shift lever to the right (facing transom from inside boat) and lubricate slot with Anti-Corrosion Grease (C-92-45134A1). (Figure 3) Figure 3. Lubricating Shift Lever Coupler 4. Align coupler of intermediate shift shaft in drive shaft housing (Figure 4) for straight entry into locating slot of shift lever in gimbal housing. NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate propeller shaft to align intermediate shift shaft coupling with upper shift shaft slot. Drive unit must be in forward gear position. Lubricate coupler surface with Anti-Corrosion Grease. (Figure 4) REMOVAL-INSTALL ATION-ALIGNMEN'T - 2E-7 Figure 5. Inserting Unit into Bell Bore NOTE: Since the fit between the universal joint "0" rings and gimbal housing ball bearing is tight, it is recommended that a coating of New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588) be placed on the 2 "0" rings. This will facilitate installation of the universal joint into the gimbal housing ball bearing. 5. Place drive shaft housing gasket on bell housing. (Figure 5) 6. Insert stern drive unit into drive shaft housing bell bore as follows: (Figure 5) a. Guide drive shaft thru bearing in gimbal housing into drive coupling on engine while guiding shift slide into opening in drive shaft housing. b. Be careful not to move shift slide assembly or coupler. The unit will not align if out of position. If drive shaft splines do not align with engine coupling splines, rotate propeller shaft counterclockwise until drive unit can be pushed into position. Propeller should be placed on shaft for easier rotation. 7. Fasten drive shaft housing to bell mounting bolts with 6 elastic stop nuts and flat washers. Tighten evenly to 50 ft. lbs. (6.9mkg) torque. (Figure 6) THROTTLE CABLE INSTALLATION Before proceeding with the following instructions, throttle and shift cables should be installed in remote control and control mounted in boat. Refer to "Remote Control" Section 7C. 1. Place remote control in neutral gear, idle position. 2. Remove nut and thin washer from screw which passes thru carburetor throttle lever. 3. Place cable end guide over spacer. Place flat washer on screw and tighten nut securely. (Figure 7) 4. Grasp throttle cable at point behind brass barrel and push toward throttle lever. Adjust brass barrel to align with anchor stud. Fasten barrel to stud with flat washer and nut. Tighten nut securely. Figure 7. Throttle Cable Installed 2H-6 - REWIOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGN ME NT ATTACHING and ADJUSTING SHIFT CABLE IMPORTANT: Follow these instructions to ensure full clutch engagement. Before proceeding with the following instructions, install remote control and throttle and shift cables, as outlined in the instructions which accompany the remote control. IMPORTANT: Remote control shift cable may be installed in two (2) different ways, depending upon location of remote control station. If remote control is mounted on right (starboard) side of boat proceed with instructions under "A " following. If remote control is mounted on left (port) side of boat, proceed with instructions under "B" following. A. REMOTE CONTROL MOUNTED on RIGHT SIDE 1. Move shift lever to left (when viewing lever from inside boat) as far as it will go. (Figure 1) This shifts stem drive unit into forward gear. While shifting, turn propeller shaft counterclockwise until shaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement. Figure 1. Shifting into Forward Gear 2. Move remote control handle to full forward position. 3. Anchor remote control shift cable end guide to shift lever anchor point. Lightly pull outer conduit away from cable guide (to eliminate slack in cable) and adjust brass barrel on remote control shift cable to align with anchor point. (Figure 2) Figure 2. Adjusting Brass Barrel 4. Once the brass barrel is positioned on the control shift cable. DO NOT allow it to move from this position when placing remote control handle into full reverse position. 5. Manually move shift lever to right (when viewing lever from inside boat) as far as it will go. (Figure 3) This shifts stern drive unit into reverse. While shifting, rotate propeller shaft clockwise until shaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement. Figure 3. Shifting into Reverse Gear 6. . Move end guide of stem drive shift cable in shift lever slot so that brass barrel of control shift (able can be reinstalled on anchor point. (Figure 4) Figure 4. Locating End Guide in Shift Lever Slot and Anchoring Shift Cable 7. Securely tighten nuts which fasten anchor stud to shift lever and brass barrel to anchor point. 8. Reverse lock valve adjustment: a. Shift unit into full reverse. While shifting, rotate propeller shaft clockwise until shaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement. b. Loosen 2 nuts on shift lever and move upper nut in direction required to line up raised triangular mark on cam with raised triangular mark on reverse valve cover. (Figure 5) Tighten 2 nuts on shift lever. CAUTION: Unit may be locked in neutral if reverse lock valve is over-adjusted. REMOVAL-INSTALL ATION-ALIGNMEN'T - 2E-7 Figure 5. Adjusting Reverse Lock Valve IMPORTANT: Brass barrel must be positioned on anchor point as shown in Figure 6. 9. Remove screw which extends thru shift cutout switch lever. (Figure 4) 10.This completes installation of shift cable. B. REMOTE CONTROL MOUNTED on LEFTSIDE 1. Move shift lever to left (when viewing lever from inside boat) as far as it will go. (Figure 1) This shifts sterr drive unit into forward gear. While shifting, turn propeller shaft counterclockwise until shaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement. 2. Move remote control handle to full forward. 3. Hold remote control shift cable end guide to anchor point with washer and stop nut. (Figure 6) Lightly pull outer conduit away from cable guide and adjust brass barrel on remote control shift cable to align with anchor point. Figure 6. Adjusting Brass Barrel 4. Hold brass barrel to anchor point with spacer, washers and stop nut. 5. Remove stop nut which holds remote control shift cable end guide to anchor point. 6. Move remote control handle to full reverse. 7. Manually move shift lever to right (when viewing lever from inside boat) as far as it will go. (Figure 7) This shifts stern drive unit into reverse. While shifting, rotate propeller shaft clockwise until shaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement. 2G-8 - REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT 8. Move end guide of stern drive shift cable in shift lever slot until control cable end guide can be reinstalled to anchor point. (Figure 8) 9. Securely tighten nuts which fasten anchor stud to shift lever and cable end guide to anchor point. Figure 8. Locating End Guide in Shift Lever Slot and Anchoring Shift Cable lO.Reverse lock valve adjustment: a. Shift unit into full reverse. While shifting, rotate propeller shaft clockwise until shaft stops, to insure full clutch engagement. b. Loosen 2 nuts on shift lever and move upper nut in direction required to line up raised triangular mark on cam with raised triangular mark on reverse valve cover. (Figure 9) Tighten 2 nuts on shift lever. CAUTION: The unit may be locked in neutral if the reverse lock valve is over-adjusted. 11.Remove screw which goes thru shift cutout switch lever. (Figure 8) 12.This completes shift cable installation. Figure 9. Adjusting Reverse Lock Valve 471R1 INSTALLING COMBINATION TRIM and SHOCK CYLINDERS RIDE-GUIDE STEERING INSTALLATION IMPORTANT: Be sure that one snail spiral grounding spring is installed between rubber bushings on each side of both forward and aft anchor pins. (Figure 10) They are necessary to ground the trim cylinders to the stem drive unit in order to reduce galvanic corrosion. . Insert forward anchor pin in gimbal ring. Place one flat washer, one rubber washer and one spiral spring on forward anchor pin on each side of gimbal ring. 01531 1. Connect steering link rod with pivot bolt in rod, flat washer and curved washer to steering lever. (Figure 1) .Align curved washer and tighten nut. 2. Lubricate inside of cable guide tube with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). NOTE: In order to offset effects of propeller torque, it is recommended that steering wheel be mounted on right (starboard) side of boat. In some cases, depending upon boat construction, it may be necessary to mount steering wheel on left (port) side. Steering cable can be attached to drive unit from either right (Figure 2) or left (Figure 3) side. 3. Insert cable end thru tube and thread large hand-type fastening nut on tube securely. (Figure 2 or 3) NOTE: To attach steering cable from left, remove Ride- Guide tube and reinstall on transom. (Figure 3) 3. Insert aft anchor pin thru hole in drive shaft housing and place a large washer, rubber bushing and one spiral spring on aft anchor pin on each side of drive shaft housing. (Figure 10) 4. Place cylinders in position on forward and aft anchor pins. 5. Place one rubber bushing in forward and aft end mounting of each cylinder. Small diameter end of bushings face drive shaft housing. 6. Place one flat washer on each end of both cylinders next to rubber bushings. Thread nuts on anchor pins and tighten securely. (Figure 11) 4. Attach steering link rod to cable end and torque to 12 ft. lbs. (l.Tmkg). REMOVAL-INSTALL ATION-ALIGNMEN'T -2E-7 Figure 2. Attaching Steering Cable to Drive Unit from Right Figure 3. Attaching Steering Cable to Drive Unit from Left 06529 ADJUSTING RIDE-GUIDE STEERING 1. Turn steering wheel to full left and right. Drive unit should 2. Turn steering wheel until drive unit is centered. If, at this traverse fully in both directions. If unit turns further in one point, steering wheel is not centered correctly, adjust cable direction than other, loosen adjusting nuts and move cable guide tube slightly either way to center steering wheel. guide tube left or right to allow full traverse. Tighten Recheck Item 1, immediately preceding, after making the adjusting nuts securely against bracket. (Figures 2 and 3 adjustment. under '"Ride-Guide Steering Installation, ' preceding) 2G-10 - REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT 471R1 SECTION 2-REMOVAL, INSTALLATION and ALIGNMENT PART J - II-TR STERN DRIVE INDEX Page MerCruiser ll-TR Engine 2J-1 Removal 2J-1 Installation and Alignment 2J-1 Gap at 12 O'clock Position 2J-2 Gap at 6 C'Clock Position 2J-2 Gap at 3 C'Clock Position 2J-2 Gap at 9 O'Clock Position 2J-2 Stern Drive Unit Installation/Removal 2J-3 Transom Plate Installation 2J-4 Installing Hydraulic Pump 2J-4 Throttle Cable Installation 2J-4 Shift Control Wiring Connections 2J-5 Installing Combination Trim and Shock Cylinders 2J-6 Installing Hydraulic Hoses and Wiring 2J-6 Mounting Steering Unit to Transom Plate 2J-7 Electrical Wiring 2J-8 Exhaust System Installation 2J-8 MERCRUISER H-TR ENGINE REMOVAL IMPORTANT: Stern drive unit must be removed and 6 rear engine mount coupling nuts loosened prior to engine removal. (Figure 1) 1. Disconnect battery cables from battery and remove instrument panel harness connector plug from engine harness receptacle. 2. Disconnect fuel line and throttle cable from engine. 3. Disconnect shift control wires, trim indicator switch wires and hydraulic pump motor wires from engine. 4. Disconnect Power Steering hoses from steering valve assembly and, if equipped, remove Power Trim hoses from reverse lock. INSTALLATION NOTE: Prior to installing engine, transom plates must be installed as outlined in "Transom Plate Installation", following. DO NOT connect steering link rod lo Power Steering cylinder until AFTER engine alignment has been completed. 1. Coat rear mount "0 " ring (Figure 1) and gimbal housing opening (Figure 2) with Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). NOTE: Cap hydraulic hoses and plug their connecting passages to prevent loss of hydraulic fluid and dirt and air from entering hydraulic systems. 5. Remove water inlet tube and transom exhaust elbows. 6. Support engine with a suitable sling thru lifting eyes on engine and remove front engine mounting bolts. 7. Pull engine forward to disengage rear engine mount. CAUTION: DO NOT lift engine until rear mount is disengaged. 8. Remove engine. and ALIGNMENT NOTE: Make sure that 6 nuts, which secure bearing retainer to output housing, are loose before installing into gimbal housing. 3. Position engine ahead of inner transom plate so that transmission output housing and rear mount (Figure 1) are in line with large opening in inner transom plate. 4. Move engine toward inner transom plate and, at the same time, guide transmission output housing into gimbal housing opening. Use caution so that transmission output housing and rear mount are not damaged. 5. Relieve hoist tension, as required, to allow transmission output housing to seat in gimbal housing. IMPORTANT: DO NOT relieve hoist tension entirely at this time, as transmission and output housing may be damaged. 1 Figure 2. Inner Transom Plate Opening 2. Lift engine with an overheat hoist, using a suitable sling and lifting eves on engine. O . r- Figure 3. Alignment Tool Location 6. Position plate of Alignment Tool (C-91-57797A3) on shaft, as shown in Figure 3. Thread Extension (C-91-63618) onto alignment shaft. Insert end of alignment tool into opening in bell housing and into transmission output housing. (Figure 3) Insert shaft until it bottoms-out in transmission output housing. 7. Slide alignment plate toward bell housing. Raise or lower front of engine with hoist to allow shoulder on plate to enter bell housing opening. (Figure 4) REMOVAL-INSTALL ATION-ALIGNMEN'T - 2E-7 07488 Figure 4. Tool Plate Installed 8. Front engine mount supports should be constructed so that mounts will rest on top of supports without disturbing alignment tool plate position in bell housing when hoist tension is relieved. 9. Relieve hoist tension entirely and fasten front mount bases to supports with 3/8" diameter bolts, washers and locknuts. CAUTION: Engine side mounts must be positioned so that engine does not tilt to one side or the other. 10. Push alignment shaft and plate toward engine and, while holding plate against bell housing, check for gap between plate and rear surface of bell housing at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions. Engine alignment is correct when there is no gap at any point. If gap exists, proceed as follows: GAP at 12 O'CLOCK POSITION Raise front of engine by turning adjusting bolt on both front mounts clockwise. (Figure 5) Turn both bolts an equal amount by alternating from one side to the other until gap no longer exists. IMPORTANT: If front mount bolts are not adjusted evenly and engine is tilted to one side, damage may occur to exhaust elbows. 07491 Figure 5. Front Engine Mount Adjustments 2G-2 - REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT GAP at 6 O'CLOCK POSITION Lower front of engine by turning adjusting bolt on both front mounts counterclockwise. (Figure 5) Turn both bolts an equal amount by alternating from one side to the other until gap no longer exists. IMPORTANT: If front mount bolts are not adjusted evenly and engine is tilted to one side, damage mav occur to exhaust elbows. GAP at 3 O'CLOCK POSITION a. Loosen screw and nut ("A" in Figure 5) on both front mounts. b. Move front of engine to the right (starboard) until gap no longer exists. IMPORTANT: Mounts must not extend out more than W (19mm) from mount brackets. (Figure 5) c. Tighten all mount fasteners securely. GAP at 9 O'CLOCK POSITION a. Loosen screw and nut ("A" in Figure 5) on both front mounts. b. Move front of engine to the left (port) until gap no longer exists. IMPORTANT: Mounts must not extend out more than W (19mm) from mount brackets. (Figure 5) c. Tighten all mount fasteners securely. 11. After correct alignment has been attained, bend tabs of adjusting bolt tab washers down over edges of mounts and re-check all mount fasteners to make sure that they are tight. 12. Remove alignment shaft and plate. 13. Turn cap screw "B " finger-tight against cylinder block and tighten jam nut. (Figure 5) 14. Torque 6 rear mount compression stud nuts evenly to 70 in. lbs. (12.43kg/cm). (Figure 6) Remove lubrication cap (Figure 6) and lubricate output bearing with Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). 15. Connect all wires and hoses which were disconnected in removal. Install transom exhaust elbows and water inlet. 471R1 STERN DRIVE UNIT INSTALLATION/REMOVAL (For Removal, Reverse the Following Procedure.) CAUTION: Before installing stern drive unit, engine installation and alignment MUST BE completed and the rear mount retaining nuts tightened to 70 in. lbs. (12.43kg/cm). 1. Lubricate the following with Multipurpose Lubricant Apply a light coat of lubricant to inside surfaces of bell (C-92-49588): Drive shaft housing pilot (Figure 1), "0 " housing bore. Position bell housing gasket. (Figure 2) ring and U-joint shaft end (internally and externally). 2. Place forward anchor pin in gimbal ring. (Figure 2) NOTE: Use hoisting equipment to hold drive during installation. 3. Insert stem drive unit into bell housing bore (Figure 3) by guiding universal joint shaft thru pilot bearing. 4. Push drive shaft housing completely into bell housing (Figure 3) and fasten with 6 elastic stop nuts and flat washers. Torque evenly to specifications. 04843 Figure 2. Gasket Position on Bell Housing Studs 3 Figure 3. Inserting Drive Unit into Gimbal Housing NOTE: If universal joint shaft splines do not align with transmission splines, rotate propeller shaft slightly until drive can be pushed into bell housing. 5. Fill drive unit with fresh Super-Dutv Gear Lubricant (C-92-52650-12, tubs; C-92-52655-12, 'cans; C-92-52645, 25 lb. pails). Fill thru lubricant filler hole in gear housing until lubricant appears at vent hole in drive shaft housing. Install vent screw in drive shaft housing. Continue to fill drive unit until lubricant registers on dipstick in transom plate oil reservoir. NOTE: DO NOT fill transom plate oil reservoir thru dipstick tube. Air will be trapped in the system. REMOVAL-INSTALL ATION-ALIGNMEN'T -2E-7 TRANSOM PLATE INSTALLATION 1. Lubricate exhaust tube "0 " ring in gimbal housing Position gimbal housing and inner transom plate into assembly (Figure 4) and inner transom plate exhaust pilot transom holes and insert switch leads, hydraulic hoses, unit with Multipurpose Lubricant (C-9249588). (Figure 5) oil hose and steering link rod thru openings. 07495 Figure 5. Inner Transom Plate Exhaust Pilot Lubrication 2. Hold gimbal housing in position. Fasten gimbal housing and inner transom plate to transom with 8 flat washers and stop nuts, torquing them evenly to specifications. INSTALLING HYDRAULIC PUMP 1. Mount pump to floor on right side of boatmounting bracket and 6 lag screws (Figure 6) within reach of pump hydraulic lines. 2. For hydraulic hose installation, refer toHydraulic Hoses and Wiring", following. Figure 6. Locating and Mounting Hydraulic Pump Bracket THROTTLE CABLE INSTALLATION 1. Place remote control handle in neutral gear, idle position. 2. Connect cable end guide to throttle lever with screw, bushing, washers and nut. (Figure 7) 3. Grasp cable behind brass barrel and push lightly toward throttle lever. Adjust brass barrel to align with anchor stud and fasten barrel to stud with washers and nut. (Figure 7) Figure 7. Throttle Cable Installed 2G-4 - REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT 07492 Figure 4. Exhaust Tube "O " Ring Lubrication with floor "Installing 06085 07490 471R1 SHIFT CONTROL WIRING CONNECTIONS IMPORTANT: Battery cables must be disconnected from battery prior to connecting shift control wiring to shift motor. Figure 9. Remote Control Connection to terminals on shift motor, matching lead and terminal colors. Fasten harness clamp to shift motor bracket. (Figure 8) Reinstall cover. 3. Connect white wire from remote control to 12-volt terminal (with white lead) on tachometer. (Figure 9) Use nut and insulating cap. Figure 8. Shift Control Wiring Connections 1. Remove shift motor cover. 2. Connect ring terminals (located on shift control harness) To Remote Control REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-ALIGN ME NT - 2J-5 INSTALLING COMBINATION TRIM and SHOCK CYLINDERS 1. Place a flat washer, rubber bushing and one spiral spring on each side of forward anchor pin. 2. Install aft anchor pin, large washer, rubber bushing and one spiral spring on each side of aft anchor pin. (Figure 1) Figure 2. Drive and Trim Cylinders Installed 01531 Figure 1. Aft Anchor Pin Installed 3. Place cylinders on anchor pins. NOTE: Make sure that one small spiral spring is installed 4. Place rubber bushings in forward and aft end of each between rubber bushings on each side of both forward and cylinder. aft anchor pins. (Figure 1) Springs are required to ground 5. Place flat washer on each end of both anchor pins. Install cylinders to drive. nuts and tighten securely. (Figure 2) INSTALLING HYDRAULIC HOSES and WIRING 1. Connect "Up" (black) hose to front of hose connector and 6. Connect "Up" (black) hose from gimbal housing hose "Down" (gray) hose to aft end of the hose connector. connector to hydraulic pump. (Figure 4) (Figure 3) 7. Connect "Down" (gray) hose from gimbal housing hose 2. Install hydraulic hose connector onto gimbal housing with connector to reverse lock valve. (Figures 4 and 5) gasket. Torque to specifications. (Figure 3) 3. Install 4 short hydraulic hoses to hose connector (Figure 3). 4. Connect 2 hydraulic hoses from front of hose connector to "Up" (front) port on trim cylinders. (Figure 3) 5. Connect 2 remaining hydraulic hoses from aft end of hose connector to "Down" (aft) port of trim cylinders. (Figure 3) Figure 4. Hydraulic Hoses to Pump 8. Connect "Down" (black plastic) hose from hydraulic pump to reverse lock valve. (Figures 4 and 5) 9. Plug trim control panel wiring harness quick disconncct onto hydraulic pump motor. (Figure 4) 10. Plug trim limit switch leads into trim harness. (Figure 4) 471R1 07751 Figure 3. Hydraulic Connector and Trim Cylinders Hoses 2G-6 - REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT 11. Plug trim sender leads into quick disconnect onflywheel housing. (Figure 4) 12. Connect red batter)' lead to battery positive (+) terminal and black to battery negative (-) terminal. Figure 5. Hydraulic Hoses to Reverse Lock MOUNTING STEERING UNIT to TRANSOM PLATE engine 07494 1. Apply thin coat of Quicksilver Multipurpose Grease (C-92-49588) to attaching and mounting parts of Power Steering unit during assembly. 2. Install mounting tube thru transom bosses, thread locknut fully onto tube and tighten. Refer to Figure 6 for right side mounting. For left side mounting, install mounting tube from right and position steering link rod to the right. (Figure 7 for left side mounting) NOTE: Left side Power Steering unit is installed on opposite side in same manner. Figure 8. Mounting Power Steering Unit 3. Grease Power Steering extension rod with Multipurpose Lubricant and slip thru mounting tube. (Figure 8) Thread mounting tube into Power Steering unit until locknut bottoms against transom boss. (Figure 9) Tighten securely, using nut on end of mounting tube. 4. Turn adjusting screw in firmly against transom and secure locknut. (Figure 9) Place guide slide over cable guide tube. (Install from other direction on left side Power Steering unit.) 07508 Figure 6. Installing Mounting Tube - Right Side 07507 7 Figure 7. Installing Mounting Tube - Left Side 07509 Figure 9. Initial Setting REMOVAL-INSTALL ATION-ALIGNMEN'T - 2E-7 5. Attach cable end adaptor to extension rod with pin. (Figure 10) Lock pin with cotter key, then secure steering link rod to adaptor inside hole with washer and locknut. Tighten nut, then back off !4-turn. (Install from other direction on left side Power Steering unit.) IMPORTANT: If pump lugging occurs when the cable is fully extended from the Ride-Guide tube, the dimension (shown on Figure 9) must be checked and corrected if necessary. NOTE: For valve balancing and other adjustments, refer to Section 7B. Figure 10. Extension Rod and Link Rod Attached to Cable End Adaptor ELECTRICAL WIRING NOTE: Refer to "ElectricalSystem", Section 3. EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION 1. Connect exhaust elbows and bellows to transom plate and manifold elbows as shown in Figure 11. 2. Torque exhaust elbows to transom plate screws according to "Specifications". Figure 11. Exhaust System Installation (Right Side Shown) 07506 07501 2G-8 - REMOVAL-INSTALLAT ION-ALIGNMENT 471R1 MERCRUISER SECTION 3 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TABLE of CONTENTS Page Starter Motor - Delco Remy 3A-1 Starter Motor - "60 " Marine Engine 3A-9 Starter Motor - "80 " Marine Engine 3A-12 Starter Motor - "90 " Marine Engine 3A-17 Starter Motor - Autolite 3A-21 Solenoid 3A-27 Storage Battery 3A-28 Ignition System 3B-1 Breaker Point Ignition 3B-3 MerCruiser 4 and 6-C linder Engines 3B-3 MerCruiser Marine 60, 80 and 90 3B-8 MerCruiser 8-Cylinder Ignition 3B-11 Autolite Distributor 3B-15 Ignition Contact Points 3B-18 Criteria for Replacing Points 3B-18 Abnormal Point Wear 3B-18 Burning of Points 3B-18 Pitting of Points 3B-18 Cleaning of Points 3B-18 Setting and Alignment of Points 3B-18 4 and 6-Cylinder Engines, except 60,80 and 90 . . . 3B-18 MerCruiser 60, 80 and 90 3B-19 Contact Point Replacement 3B-19 4 and 6-Cylinder Distributor 3B-19 8-Cylinder Distributor 3B-20 Adjusting Dwell Angle - 8-Cylinder Distributor ... . 3B-21 Coil and Resistor Checks 3B-22 Distributor Condenser 3B-22 Spark Plugs 3B-23 Spark Plug Diagnosis 3B-23 Battery 3B-24 Breaker Point Ignition Timing 3B-25 Timing Mark Location 3B-25 Timing MerCruiser Engines (Except 60-80-90) . . . 3B-25 Timing MerCruiser 60, 80 and 90 3B-25 Thunderbolt Ignition 3B-27 Description 3B-27 Components 3B-27 Precautions 3B-27 Thunderbolt Ignition Checks 3B-27 Thunderbolt Ignition Service 3B-30 Page Alternator Regulctor System 3C-1 I ntegra I Chargin g Sys tern 3C-13 Direct Drive Alternator System for 60-80-90 3C-20 Instrumentations Engine Wiring Diagrams MerCruiser 60 3E-1 MerCruiser 80 and 90 3E-2 MerCruiser 110 and 140 (6-Cyl.) with Indicator Light 3E 3 MerCruiser 110, 120, 140 (4-Cyl.) and 150 with Ammeter and Relay Regulator 3E-4 MerCruiser HO, 120 and 150 with Ammeter and Transistor Regulator 3E-5 MerCruiser 110, 140 (4-Cyl.) and 150 with Ammeter, Transistor Regulator and Ballast Resistors ... . 3E-6 MerCruiser 140 with Transistor Regulator 3E-7 MerCruiser 160 and 165 with Integral Alternator . . 3E-8 MerCruiser 215-H 3E-9 MerCruiser 215-E 3E-10 MerCruiser 200 3E-11 MerCruiser 225 with Relay Regulator and Indicator Light 3E-12 MerCruiser 190 and 225 with Relay Regulator and Ammeter 3E-13 MerCruiser 225 with Transistor Regulator 3E-14 MerCruiser 225 with Electric Choke 3E-15 MerCruiser 250 3E-16 MerCruiser 250 and 325 with Switch Box 3E-17 MerCruiser 250 and 325 with Water Temperature Switch 3E-18 MerCruiser 325 with Water Temperature Switch and Trim Sender 3E-19 Power Tilt Wiring Circuit 3E-20 Power Trim Wiring Circuit with Rocker Switch . . . 3E-21 Power Trim Wiring Circuit with Early Push Button . 3E-22 Power Trim Wiring Circuit with Late Push Button . 3E-23 Power Trim Wiring Circuit MerCruiser 215 ... . 3E-24 SECTION 3 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM PART A - STARTING SYSTEM INDEX Page Page Stcrter Motor - Delco Remy 3A-1 Description 3 A-1 Components 3 A-1 Precautions 3 A-1 Periodic Inspection 3 A-1 Troubleshooting 3 A-1 Removal (All Models, except Renault and Autolite) . 3A-4 Disassembly 3A-4 Cleaning and Inspection 3A-4 Component Checks 3A-5 Armoture 3A-5 Armature Test for Shorts 3A-5 Armature Test for Ground 3A-5 Field Coil 3A-5 Field Coil Test for Open Circuit 3A-5 Field Coil Test for Ground 3A-5 Summary of Starter Checks 3A-6 Loose Electrical Connections 3A-6 Brush Holder Replacement ... . 3A-6 Turning the Commutator 3A-6 Reassembly 3A-6 Pinion Clearance 3A-7 Lubrication 3A-8 Installation 3A-8 Specifications 3A-8 Starter Motor " 60 " Marine Engine 3A-9 Description 3A-9 Periodic Inspection and Troubleshooting 3A-9 Removal 3A-9 Disassembly 3A-9 Cleaning, Inspection anc' Component Check 3A-9 Adjustment 3A-9 Turning the Commutator 3A-12 Reassembly 3A-12 Lubrication 3A-12 Installation 3A-12 Specifications 3A-12 Starter Motor - "80 " Marine Engine 3A-12 Description 3A-13 Periodic Inspection and Troubleshooting 3A-13 Removal 3A-13 Disassembly 3A-13 Cleaning, Inspection and Component Checks 3A-13 Adjustment 3A-13 Turning the Commutator 3A-16 Reassembly 3A-16 Lubrication 3A-16 Installation 3A-16 Specifications 3A-16 Starter Motor " 90 " Marine Engine 3A-17 Description 3A-17 Periodic Inspection and Troubleshooting 3A-17 Removal 3A-17 Disassembly 3A-17 Cleaning, Inspection and Component Checks 3A-17 Adjustment 3A-17 Turning the Commutator 3A-17 Reassembly 3A-17 Lubrication 3A-20 Installation 3A-20 Specifications 3A-20 Starter Motor - Autolite 3A-21 Description 3A-21 Periodic Inspection 3A-21 Troubleshooting 3A-21 Removal 3 A-22 Disassembly 3A-22 Component Checks 3A-23 Armature 3A-23 Armature Test for Shorts 3A-23 Armature Test for Ground 3A-23 Field Coil 3A-23 Field Coil Test for Open Circuit 3A-23 Field Coil Test for Ground 3A-24 Cleaning and Inspection 3A-24 Summary of Starter Checks 3A-24 Turning the Commutator 3A-24 Reassembly 3A-25 Starter Drive Replacement 3A-25 Brush Replacement 3A-26 Armature Replacement 3 A-26 Lubrication 3A-26 Installation 3A-26 Specifications 3A-26 Solenoid 3A-27 Removal 3A-27 Replacement of Contacts 3A-27 Solenoid Installation 3A-27 Storage Battery 3A-28 Maintenance 3A- 28 Ampere Capacity 3A-28 Table of Gravity Readings 3A-28 Batteries in Parallel 3A-29 Converting Electrical Accessories 3A-29 Winter Storage of Batteries 3A-29 STARTER MOTOR - DELCO REMY DESCRIPTION The function of the starting system is to crank the engine. The solenoid also shifts the cranking motor pinion into The battery supplies electrical energy to the solenoid mesh with the flywheel teeth, and engine cranking takes which closes the circuit between the battery and cranking place. motor, causing the cranking motor armature to rotate . COMPONENTS The starting system consists of (1) the starting motor, which is a pad-mounted 12-volt extruded frame 4fields connected in series and an armature, (2) a solenoid, a flange-mounted switch which operates an clutch drive, (3) a battery and (4) the to connect these components. (Figure 1) Figure 1. Starting Motor Cross Section type with overrunning necessary wiring PRECAUTIONS The cranking motor is designed to operate under great this reason, the cranking motor never must be used for overload and produce a high horsepower for its size. It more than 30 seconds at any one time. Cranking should can do this only for a short time, since considerable not be repeated without a pause of at least 2 minutes to heat accumulates and can cause serious damage. For permit the heat to escape. PERIODIC INSPECTION Cranking motor and solenoid are completely enclosed in 1. Inspect terminals for corrosion and loose connections. the drive housing to prevent entrance of moisture and 2. Inspect wiring for frayed and worn insulation. dirt. However, as an aid to preventive maintenance, 3. Check mounting bolts for tightness. periodic inspection is required as follows: TROUBLESHOOTING Starting motor specifications cannot be checked while 2. Observe reading with starting switch closed and motor starting motor is mounted on engine, however, starting cranking. Ground distributor primary lead to prevent system can be checked for excessive resistance in starting engine firing. circuit which could cause battery to run down. a. From battery positive \+) post to solenoid battery terminal (Figure 2) RESISTANCE CHECK b. From battery negative (-) post to starting motor housing 1. Place V-O-A Tester (C-91-52751) across points in c. From solenoid battery terminal to solenoid motor cranking circuit, as outlined, following. terminal ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3A-1 5 01437 01437 Figure 2. Schematic Diagram - Typical Starter Circuit 3. If voltage drop in any of above checks exceeds 0.2 volts, excessive resistance'is indicated in that portion of starting circuit. CAUTION: Do not operate starting motor continuously for more than 30 seconds, as overheating will result. 4. If solenoid fails to pull in, trouble may be cue to excessive voltage drop in solenoid control circuit. To check for this condition, close starting switch and measure voltage drop between BATTERY terminal of solenoid and SWITCH ("S") terminal of solenoid. a. If voltage drop exceeds 3.5 volts, excessive resistance in solenoid control circuit is indicated. b. If voltage drop does not exceed 3.5 volts and solenoid does not pull in, measure voltage available at SWITCH terminal of solenoid. c. If solenoid does not feel warm, it should pull in whenever voltage at SWITCH terminal is 7.7 volts or more. If solenoid feels warm, it will require a somewhat higher voltage to pull in. (Figure 3) STARTING MOTOR and SOLENOID CHECK Following checks may be made if battery's specific gravity is 1.215 or higher. 1 Housing 18 Coil, shunt 35 Lever, shift 52 Nut 2 Bushing 19 Washer, leather 36 Shaft 53 Stud 3 Col lor, thrust 20 Frame 37 Ring 54 Stud 4 Ring, retoining 21 Bolt 38 Stud 55 Washer 5 Collar 22 Bolt 39 Lockwasher 56 Nut 6 Drive Assembly 23 Holder 40 Nut 57 Lockwasher 7 Bushing 24 Holder 41 Plunger 58 Nut 8 Spring 25 Brush 42 Pin 59 Stud 9 Collar 26 Screw 43 Spring 60 Clip 10 Lockwire 27 Support Package 44 Screw 61 Washer, plastic 11 Spring 28 Pin 45 Sol. Switch Ass'y 62 Nut 12 Armature 29 Lead 46 Con. & P. Rod Ass'y 63 Lockwasher 13 Insulation 30 Screw 47 Spring 64 Screw 14 Shoe, pole 31 Lockwasher 48 Cover 65 Washer 15 Screw 32 Nut 49 Stud 66 Screw 16 Grommet 33 Spring 50 Contact 67 Lockwasher 17 Field Coil Assembly 34 Pin, dowel 51 Lockwasher 68 Connector Figure 3. Starter Solenoid Terminals 1. If solenoid does not pull in, measure voltage between SWITCH ("S") terminal of solenoid and ground with starting switch closed. CAUTION: If solenoid feels warm, allow to cool before checking. If voltage is less than 7.7 volts, check for excessive resistance in solenoid control circuit. If voltage exceeds 7.7 volts, remove starting motor and check (1) solenoid current draw, (2) starting motor pinion clearance and (3) freedom of shift lever linkage. 2. If solenoid "chatters" but does not hold in, check solenoid for open "hold-in" winding. When necessary to replace a starting motor solenoid, always check starting motor pinion clearance. 3. If motor engages but does not crank or cranks slowly, check for excessive resistance in external starting circuit, trouble within starting motor or excessive engine resistance to cranking. (Legend (or Figure 4 - 60, SO, 90 and 215E Starting Motor) 3B-2 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 373R1 ' ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3A-3 470 REMOVAL (All Models, except Renault and Autolite) 2. Remove 2 starter pad mounting bolts and flat washer. CAUTION: Disconnect positive battery lead at Remove cap screw which fastens starter motor to battery before removing starter. mounting bracket (located at top front of starter motor.) 3. Pull starter assembly forward and remove from engine. 1. Disconnect yellow lead wire from solenoid "S " ter- Do not lose special plate between starter and mount minal and red lead wires from solenoid battery ter ing pad. minal. (Figure 4) On V-8's, also remove pink lead from "R " terminal. DISASSEMBLY (Figure 4) 1. Remove screw and washer which fasten field coil connector to solenoid motor terminal. 2. Remove thru bolts. 3. Remove commutator end frame, field frame assembly and armature assembly from drive housing. 4. Remove over-running clutch from armature shaft as follows: a. Slide thrust collar off end of armature shaft. b. Slide standard Vi* pipe coupling or other metal cylinder of correct size (an old pinion of correct size, if available) onto shaft so that end of coupling or cylinder butts against edge of retainer. (Figure 5) Tap end of coupling with hammer, driving retainer toward armature end of snap ring. c. Remove snap ring from groove in shaft with pliers or other suitable tool. d. Slide retainer and clutch from armature shaft. 5. Disassemble brush rigging from field frame. a. Remove pin which passes thru brush support and brush holders and remove assembly from field frame. b. Disconnect leads from brushes. c. Repeat operation for other set of brushes. Figure 5. Driving off Retainer Snap Ring CLEANING and With starting motor completely disassembled, except for removal of field coils, component parts should be cleaned 4. and inspected as described, following. Field coils should be removed only where defects in coils are indicated by 5. tests described, following, in which case pole shoe screws should be removed and pole shoes and field coils disassembled. Defective parts should be replaced or repaired. 6. 1. Clean all starting motor parts but do not use grease dissolving solvents for cleaning over-running clutch, armature and field coils. Such a solvent would dissolve grease packed in clutch mechanism and damage armature and field coil insulation, 2. Test over-running clutch action. Pinion should turn freely in over-running direction and must not slip in cranking direction. Check that pinion teeth have not been chipped, cracked or excessively worn. Check spring for normal tension and drive collar for wear. If necessary, replace spring or collar by forcing collar toward clutch and removing lock ring from end of lube. 3. Check that brush holders are not damaged or bent and 3B-4 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM INSPECTION will hold brushes against commutator. Check condition of brushes. Replace if pitted or worn to one-half their original length. Check fit of armature shaft in bushing of drive housing. Shaft should fit snugly in bushing. Replace bushing, if worn. Apply No. 20 oil to this bushing before reassembly. Avoid excessive lubrication. Check fit of bushing in commutator end frame. If bushing is damaged or worn excessively, replace end frame assembly. Apply No. 20 oil to this bushing before reassembly* Avoid excessive lubrication. Lubricant forced onto commutator would gum and cause poor commutation and drop in crank ing motor performance. Inspect armature commutator. If commutator is rough or out-of-round, it should be turned down and undercut. Inspect points (where armature conductors join commutator bars) to make sure that it is a good, firm connection. Burned commutator bar usually is evidence of poor connection. See "Turning the Commutator", following. 373R1 COMPONENT CHECKS ARMATURE ARMATURE TEST FOR SHORTS Check armature for short circuits by placing on growler and holding hack saw blade over armature core while armature is rotated. (Figure 6) If saw blade vibrates, armature is shorted. Recheck after cleaning between commutator bars. If saw blade still vibrates, replace armature. Figure 6. Armature Tests for Shorts ARMATURE TEST FOR GROUND 1- vVith Magneto Analyzer selector switch set on Scale No. 3 (Continuity) (or using, VOA Tester QC-91-527512]on Rxl scale), place one lead on armature core or shaft and other lead on commutator. 2. If meter hand on Analyzer (or VOA Tester) moves to right, armature is grounded and must be replaced. (Figure 7) FIELD COIL FIELD COIL TEST FOR OPEN CIRCUIT 1. Rith Magneto Analyzer selector switch set on Scale No. 3 (Continuity) (or usir.g VOA Tester on Rxl scale), place one lead on each end of field coils. 2. If meter hand on Analyzer (or VOA Tester) does not move to right, field coils are open and must be replaced. (Figure 8) Figure 8. Field Coil Test for Open Circuit FIELD COIL TEST FOR GROUND 1. With Magneto Analyzer selector switch set on Scale No. 3 (Continuity), or using VOA Tester on Rxl scale, place one lead on field coil connector and other lead on field frame. 2. If meter hand moves to right, fielc coils are grounded and must be replaced. (Figure 9) Figure 9. Field Coil Test for Ground ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3A-S SUMMARY of STARTER CHECKS Component Connection Read ing Result Armature 1. Armature on growler. Hack saw blade over armature core. 2. Analyzer from armature core to commutator. Sow vibrates Low Shorted Grounded I ^cmponent Connection Reading Result Field Coil 1. Analyzer to each end of field coil s. L ow Open 2. Analyzer from field coil to field frame. Low Grounded LOOSE ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS If open soldered connection of armature to commutator leads is found during inspection, resolder with rosin flux. CAUTION: Never use acid flux on electrical connections. TURNING the When inspection shows commutator roughness, clean as follows: 1. Turn down commutator in a lathe until thoroughly cleaned. CAUTION: Do not cut beyond section previously turned. BRUSH HOLDER REPLACEMENT If brush holders are damaged, replace by special service units which are attached with screws and nuts. COMMUTATOR 2. Undercut insulation between commutator bars I./32" (.8mm) to full width of insulation and flat at bottom. A triangular groove is not satisfactory. After undercutting, clean out slots carefully to remove dirt and copper dust. 3. Sand commutator lightly with No. 00 sandpaper to remove any slight burrs left from undercutting. 4. Recheck armature on growler for short circuits. REASSEMBLY (Figure 4) After all parts are thoroughly tested and inspected and worn or damaged parts replaced, reassemble starter. 1. Assemble brush rigging to field frame. a. Assemble brushes to brush holders. b. Place flat washer over each support pin, then assemble insulated and grounded brush holders together with "V"' spring and position as a unit on support pin. Push holders and spring to bottom of support and rotate spring to engage "V " in slot in support. SNAP RING GROOVE 'wis* 01444 Figure 10. Forcing Snap Ring Over Shaft 3A-6 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM c. Attach ground wire to grounded brush and field lead wire to insulated brush. d. Repeat for other set of brushes. 2. Assemble over-running clutch assembly to armature shaft. a. Lubricate drive end of armature shaft with No. 10 oil. b. Slide assist spring and clutch assembly onto armature shaft with pinion outward. c. Slide retainer onto shaft with cupped surface facing end of shaft (away from pinion). d. Stand armature on end on wood surface with commutator down. Position snap ring on upper end of shaft and hold in place with block of wood. Strike wood block a blow with hammer, thus forcing snap ring over end of shaft. (Figure 10) Slide snap ring down into groove. e. Assemble thrust collar on shaft with shoulder next to snap ring. f. Place armature flat on work bench and position retainer and thrust collar next to snap ring. Then, using 2 pairs of pliers at same time (one pair on either side of shaft), grip retainer and thrust collar and squeeze until snap ring is forced into retainer. (Figure 11) 3. Place 4 or 5 drops of light engine oil in drive housing bushing. Be sure that thrust collar is in place against snap ring and retainer. Slide armature and clutch assembly into place in drive housing while engaging shift lever with clutch. 4. Position field frame over armature and apply gasket Sealer Compound (C-92-28804) between frame and solenoid case. Position frame against drive housing, observing caution to prevent damage to brushes. THRUST COLLAR RETAINER SNAP RING Figure 11. Forcing Snap Ring into Retainer 5. Place 4 to 5 drops of light engine oil in hushing in commutator end frame. Place leather brake washer on armature shaft and slide commutator end frame onto shaft. 6. Reconnect field coil connector to "motor" solenoid terminal. 7. After reassembly, a "no load" check of starting motor may be made if equipment is available. To check, connect starter motor in series with a fully- charged 12-volt battery, an ammeter capable of reading several hundred amperes and a variable resistance. PINION Check pinion clearance after reassembly of motor to insure proper adjustment. Check pinion clearance as follows: Figure 13. Circuit for Checking Pinion Clearance Also connect a voltmeter, as illustrated, from motor terminal to motor frame. An RPM indicator is neces sary to measure armature speed. (Figure 12) Obtain specified voltage by varying resistance unit. Then read current draw and armature speed and compare these readings with values listed below. Volts - 10.6 Amperes - 49-76 RPM - 6200-9400 8. If readings are not correct, refer to ''Troubleshooting", preceding. CLEARANCE PRESS ON CLUTCH AS SHOWN TO TAKE UP MOVEMENT PINION RETAINER PIMON CLEARANCE FEELER GAUG E 01448 Figure 14. Checking Pinion Clecrance ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 3A- 7 1. Disconnect motor field coil connector from solenoid 4. Push pinion back toward commutator end to eliminate motor terminal and insulate it carefully. slack movement. 5. Measure distance between pinion and pinion stop. 2. Connect 12-volt battery from solenoid switch terminal (Figure 14) to solenoid frame. (Figure 13) 6. If clearance is not within specified limits (.010". 140") (.025mm 3.556mm), it may indicate excessive 3. Momentarily flash a jumper lead from solenoid motor wear of solenoid linkage shift lever yoke buttons or terminal to solenoid frame. This shifts pinion into improper assembly of shift lever mechanism. Replace cranking position where it will remain until battery is worn or defective parts, since no provision is made disconnected. for adjusting pinion clearance. LUBRICATION Periodic lubrication of starting motor or solenoid is not required. INSTALLATION 1. Place starting motor and solenoid assembly in position 3. Fasten yellow lead wire to solenoid "S " terminal and and install 2 starting pad mounting bolts and flat red lead wires to solenoid battery terminal. washer. 4. Paint connections with Liquid Neoprene (C-92-25711) 2. Install cap screw which fastens starter motor to mount- to prevent corrosion. ing bracket, 5. Check operation of starter on engine. SPECIFICATIONS Refer to "Specifications" Section 8 for starter specifications. 3A-10 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM STARTER MOTOR - "60" MARINE ENGINE DESCRIPTION The MerCruiser "60 " starter is similar to the Delco- Remy starter, preceding. Only the differences will be discussed in this section. PERIODIC INSPECTION and TROUBLESHOOTING Periodic Inspection and Troubleshooting are the same as the Delco-Remy starter, preceding. REMOVAL CAUTION: Disconnect positive (+) batteryat battery before starting removal. 1. Remove yellow lead wire from solenoidand red lead wires from solenoid battery 2. Remove 3 thru bolts and nuts which holdflywheel housing. (Figure 1) 3. Pull starter assembly forward and remove Figure 1. Starter Bolt- Location lead "S " terminal terminal. starter to from engine. DISASSEMBLY (Figure 2) 1. Remove nut and washer which fasten field coil connec-ature. tor to solenoid motor terminal. 8. Remove roll pin, stop collar and drive assembly from 2. Remove thru bolt, nuts and washers. drive assembly end. 3. Remove 2 small nuts and washers from solenoid thru 9. Remove screw and brush housing assembly from bolts. commutator end. 4. Remove shift lever retaining ring and shaft. 10. Remove 4 screws from housing and remove field coil 5. Remove solenoid and shift lever assembly. assembly. 6. Remove front housing. 11. To disassemble solenoid, loosen shift lever bolt and 7. Remove field brush from brush clip and remove arm-remove shift lever assembly. CLEANING, INSPECTION and COMPONENT CHECK Cleaning, Inspection and Component Checks are the same as Delco-Remy starter, preceding. ADJUSTMENT 1. If starter motor requires disassembly, adjust pinion a. Make sure that end plate on commutator side con- in released position and connection between plunger tacts frame and armature, then position Gauge and fork before reassembling. C-91-39123. (Figure 3) 2. Adjusting pinion in released position ELECTRICAL SYSTEM- 3A-13 Figure 2. Starter Motcr Exploded View — MerCruiser "60 " 3A-10 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1 Bushing, end housing 17 Brush holder end plate 33 Washer, lock, terminal 2 Housing, end 18 Bushing, end plate 34 Washer, plain, terminal 3 Pin, arm to solenoid 19 Retainer, spring 35 Solenoid, starter 4 Gasket, solenoid 20 Spring 36 Bolt, thru, solenoid 5 Plate, soleno d 21 Washer 37 Pad, solenoid arm 6 Nut, drive assembly to armature 22 Plate 38 Spring 7 Pin, armature nut 23 Bolt 39 Washer 8 Drive Assembly 24 Cover, end 40 Arm, solenoid 9 Bolt, thru, starter housing 25 Washer, lock 41 Spring 10 Housing, starter 26 Nut, thru bolt 42 Bolt, hollow 11 Retainer, field coi 1 27 Clip, brush 43 Bolt, solenoid arm 12 Field Coil 28 Brush, negative and positive 44 Pin, retaining 13 Washer, retaining armature 29 Nut, terminal 45 Washer, solenoid thru bolt 14 Armature 30 Washer, lock, terminal 46 Nut, solenoid thru bolt 15 Washer, plain 31 Nut, terminal 47 Grommet, starter motor 16 Washer, fiber 32 Bolt, field coil Figure 5. Clearance "G " Figure 3. Starter Motor Pinion End b. Screw in front stop and bring it into contact with outside edge of gauge which represents dimension "E " (foremost position of pinion). (Figure 4) c. After adjustment of stop, insert a new roll pin. Figure 4. Dimension "E" Figure 6. Dimens 3. Adjusting connection between solenoid plunger and link Starter Motor Exploded View) a. Mount "switch-end plate" assembly on armature. b. Push control rod fully in and check clearance "G " (.00197" to .0591") (.050mm-l.501mm) between pinion and front stop. (Figure 5) c. Allow assembly to return and tighten or loosen sleeve ("1 " in Figure 6) with a socket to obtain correct clearance "G " with "F " dimension as small as possible. d. Check that starter drive pinion bears on rear stop when in released position. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM -3A-1 5 TURNING the COMMUTATOR Follow same procedure as outlined in Delco-Remy starter, preceding. REASSEMBLY Rsfsr to Figure 2 and reassemble in reverse order of disassembly. LUBRICATION Periodic lubrication of starting motor or solenoid is not required. INSTALLATION 1. Place starting motor and solenoid assembly in position 3. Paint connections with Liquid Neoprene (C-92-25711) on engine and install 3 mounting bolts and nuts. to prevent corrosion. 2. Fasten yellow lead wire to solenoid "S " terminal 4. Check operation of starter on engine. and red lead wires to solenoid battery terminal. SPECIFICATIONS Refer to "Specifications" Section 8 for starter specifications. 3A-12 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM STARTER MOTOR - "60 " MARINE ENGINE DESCRIPTION The MerCruiser "80 " starter is similar to the Delco-NOTE: MerCruiser 80 Stern Drives (Serial No. 2332196 Remy starter, preceding. Only the differences will be and up) are equipped with MerCruiser90 starter motors. discussed in this section. Refer to appropriate repair procedure. PERIODIC INSPECTION and TROUBLESHOOTING Periodic Inspection and Troubleshooting are the same as the Delco-Remy starter, preceding. REMOVAL CAUTION: Disconnect positive (+) lead al battery before starting removal. 1. Remove yellow lead wire from solenoidand red lead wires from solenoid battery 2. Remove 3 thru bolts and nuts which holdflywheel housing. 3. Pull starter assembly forward and remove(Figure 1) Figure 1. Starter Bolt Location "S" terminal terminal. starter to from engine. DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove 2 nuts and lockwashers and remove commutator 8. While holding clutch, remove hex head bolt from end plate. commutator end and remove spring and plates. 2. Remove nut on brush cover band and remove band. S. Remove commutator brush assembly. 3. Remove 4 bolts, nuts and lockwashers from solenoid 10. Remove armature. to drive housing. 11. Remove stop by pressing stop toward armature and 4. Remove retaining ring and shift lever shafts. remove snap rings and stop. 5. Remove solenoid. 12. Remove drive assembly. 6. Remove brush. 13. To remove field coil assembly, remove 4 screws and 7. Remove drive end housing and shift lever. remove field coil. CLEANING, INSPECTION and COMPONENT CHECKS Cleaning, Inspection and Component Checks are the same as the Delco-Remy starter, preceding. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3A-13 3A-14 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1 Housing, starter 22 Washer, plain 2 Housing, end 23 Nut 3 Bushing, end housing 24 Nut 4 Field Coil 25 Washer 5 Retainer, field coil 26 Screw, field coil 6 Terminal, field coil 27 Washer, lock, terminal 7 Armature 28 Nut, terminal 8 Bolt, motor band 29 Soienoid 9 Nut, motor band 30 Bolt, solenoid 10 Band, motor 31 Washer, lock, solenoid 11 Washer 32 Washer, lock, solenoid 12 Bushing, brush plate 33 Nut, solenoid 13 Clip, brush 34 Drive Assembly 14 Brush Plate 35 Retainer, clutch drive 15 Brush, negative and positive 36 Split Ring 16 Spring 37 Arm, solenoid 17 Retainer, spring 38 Insert, solenoid arm 18 Washer 39 Pin, solenoid arm 19 Washer 40 Retainer, pin 20 Bolt 41 Bolt thru 21 Cover (Legend (or Figure 2 • Starter Motor Exploded View) ADJUSTMENT Adjust connection between core and fork. 1. Connect battery- to solenoid as shown in Figure 3. Pinion moves to forward position. Field coil (Item 1) terminal should not be connected. Figure 4. Pinion and Stop Clearance Figure 3. Clevis Adjustment Hookup 2. Clearance "H " of .020" to .099" should remain between the pinion (Item 2) and the stop (Item 3). (Figure 4) 3. If clearance is not correct, remove switch and screw- clevis (Item 4) in or out to obtain correct clearance. (Figure 5) Figure 5. Clevis Adjustment ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3A-1 5 TURNING the COMMUTATOR Follow same procedure as outlined in Delco-Remy starter, preceding. REASSEMBLY When reassembling, always fit a new front 46651) on armature shaft as follows: 1. Cover retaining snap rings with the stop. 2. Pean down end of the stop in 4 places toring. (Figure 6) 3. Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly. (Figure 2) Figure 6. Refitting the Stop stop (B-23trap snap LUBRICATION Periodic lubrication of starting motor or solenoid is not required. INSTALLATION 1. Place starting motor and solenoid assembly in position 3. Paint connections with Liquid Neoprene (C-92-25711) on engine and install 3 mounting bolts and nuts. to prevent corrosion. 2. Fasten yellow lead wire to solenoid "S " terminal 4. Check operation of starter on engine. and red lead wires to solenoid battery terminal. SPECIFICATIONS Refer to "Specifications" Section 8 for starter specifications. 3A-10 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 470 STARTER MOTOR - "90" MARINE ENGINE DESCRIPTION The MerCruiser "90 " starter is similar to Delco-Remy starter, preceding. Differences only will be discussed in this section. PERIODIC INSPECTION and TROUBLESHOOTING Periodic Inspection and Troubleshooting are same as Delco-Remy starter, preceding. REMOVAL CAUTION: Disconnect positive (+) lead at battery before starling removal. 1. Remove yellow lead wire from solenoid "S " and red lead wires from solenoid battery 2. Remove 3 thru bolts and nuts which holdflywheel housing. 3. Pull starter assembly forward and remove from engine. (Figure 1) Figure 1. Starter Bolt Location terminal terminal. starter to 06120 DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove field wire from solenoid. 12. To remove field coil assembly, remove 4 screws and 2. Remove 2 nuts and lockwashers and remove housing field coil assembly from armature and solenoid assembly. 3. Remove fiber washer, steel washer and wave washer from commutator end of armature. 4. Remove 4 nuts and lockwashers from solenoid to drive housing. 5. Remove retaining ring and shift lever shaft. 6. Pull armature and solenoid out of end housing. (Figure 2) Solenoid and armature will separate. 7. To remove shifting fork, screw adjusting slot on solenoid and remove nylon keeper. 8. Remove pinion stop by pressing stop toward armature and removing snap ring and stop. 9. Remove drive assembly and plate. 10. Remove nut on brush cover band and remove band and paper. 11. Remove brushes from brush holders and remove brush assembly. Figure 2. Starter Disassembly 470 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 3A- 17 CLEANING, INSPECTION and COMPONENT CHECKS Cleaning, Inspection and Component Checks are same as Delco-Remy starter, preceding. ADJUSTMENT ADJUSTING CONNECTION BETWEEN CORE and FORK 1- Connect battery to solenoid as shown in Figure 3. Pinion moves to forward position. Do not connect field coil terminal. Figure 4. Pinion and Stop Clearance 06117 Figure 3. Clevis Adjustment Hookup 2. Clearance of .020" to .099" (.51mm to 2.51mm) should remain between pinion and stop. If clearance is incorrect, remove rubber solenoid plug and screw clevis in or out for correct clearance. (Figure 5) Figure 5. Clevis Adjustment TURNING the COMMUTATOR Follow same procedure as outlined in Delco-Remy starter, preceding. REASSEMBLY 1. Cover retaining stop ring with stop. 2. Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly. (Figure 6) 1 Bushing, end cover 15 Washer, armature fiber 30 a ar\ 11 r\ •D Ring 2 Starter Motor Band Screw 16 Washer, armature wave 31 Arm, starter solenoid 3 Nut 17 Washer, armcture fiber 32 Pin, solenoid arm to starter housing 4 Band, starter motor 18 Armature 33 Insert, starter solenoid arm 5 End Cap and Brush Holder 19 Bushing, arrrature shaft 34 Nut, starter solenoid 6 Spring, starter brush 20 Plate 35 Lockwasher, starter solenoid 7 Brush, starter 21 Drive Assembly, clutch 36 Solenoid End Cap 8 Field Coil Assembly 22 Bushing, clutch drive retaining 37 Starter Solenoid, starter housing 9 Nut 23 Snap Ring 38 Washer 10 Lockwasher 24 Housing, starter 39 Nut 11 Bolt, thru starter housing 25 Bumper, solenoid to starter housing 40 Washer, solenoid to housing 12 Sleeving, thru bolt 26 Plug, starter housing 41 Nut, solenoid to housing 13 Starter Housing 27 Bushing, starter housing 42 Nut, starter solenoid 14 Screw, starter field coil 28 Lock washer 43 Lockwasher, starter solenoid 29 Nut, thru bolt (Legend for Figure 6 Starter Motor Exploded View J 3A-10 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 470 LUBRICATION Periodic lubrication of starting motor or solenoid is not required. INSTALLATION 1. Place starting motor and solenoid assembly in position 3. Paint connections with Liquid Neoprene (C-92-25711) on engine and install 3 mounting bolts and nuts. to prevent corrosion. 2. Fasten yellow lead wire to solenoid "S " terminal 4. Check operation of starter on engine, and red lead wires to solenoid battery terminal. SPECIFICATIONS Refer to "Specifications" Section 8 for starter specifications. 3A-10 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM STARTER MOTOR - AUTOLITE DESCRIPTION The starter utilizes on integral positive-engagement drive. When the starter is first connected to the battery, current flows through the grounded field coil, actuating a movable pole shoe. The pole shoe is attached to the starter drive plunger lever and, thus, the drive is forced into engagement with the flywheel. When the movable pole shoe is fully seated, it opens the field coil grounding contacts, and the starter then is in normal operation. A holding coil is used to maintain the movalbe pole shoe in the fully seated position during the time that the starter is turning the engine. Figure 1. Positive Engagement Starters PERIODIC INSPECTION Cranking motor is completely enclosed in drive housing 1. Inspect terminals for corrosion and loose connections. to prevent entry of moisture and dirt. However, as an 2. Inspect wiring for frayed and worn insulation. aid to preventive maintenance, periodic inspection is 3. Check mounting bolts for tightness. required as follows: TROUBLESHOOTING Starting motor specifications cannot be checked while starting motor is mounted on engine. Starting system, however, can be checked for excessive resistance in starting circuit which could cause battery to run down. CRANKING CIRCUIT TEST Excessive resistance in starter circuit can be determined from results of this test. Make test connections as shown in Figure 2. Crank engine with ignition "OFF " by disconnecting and grounding high tension lead from ignition coil and by connecting a jumper from battery terminal of VOLTMETER starter relay to "S " terminal of relay. Voltage drop in circuit will be indicated by voltmeter (0 to 2 volt range). Maximum allowable voltage drop should be: 1. With voltmeter negative (-) lead connected to starter terminal, and positive (+) lead connected to battery positive terminal (Figure 2), connection (1) 0.5volt. 2. With voltmeter negative (-) lead connected to battery VOLTMETER NEGATIVE LEAD terminal of starter relay,and positive (+) lead connected to positive terminal battery (Figure 2), connection (2) 0.1 volt. STARTER 3. With voltmeter negative (-) lead connected to starter TO terminal of starter relay, and positive (+) lead connected IGNITION to positive terminal of battery (Figure 2), connection SWITCH (3) 0.3 volt. 4. With voltmeter negative (-) lead connected to negative COIL terminal of battery, and positive (+) lead connected to engine ground (Figure 2), connection (4) 0.1 volt. Figure 2. Starter Cranking Circuit Tests 470 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 3A-21 BATTERY POSITIVE LEAD REMOVAL 1. Disconnect red starter cable at starter terminal. 2. Remove starter mounting bolts. (Figure 3) 3. Pull starter forward and remove from engine. Figure 3. Starter Mounting DISASSEMBLY 1. Loosen brush cover band retaining screw and remove brush cover band and starter drive plunger lever cover. Observe lead positions for assembly, then remove commutator brushes from brush holders. 2. Remove the thru bolts, starter drive end housing, and starter drive plunger lever return spring. 3= Remove pivot pin (retaining starter gear plunger lever) and remove lever and armature. 4. Remove stop ring retainer. Remove and discard stop ring (retaining starter drive gear to end of the armature shaft) and remove starter drive gear assembly. 5. Remove brush end plate. 6. Remove 2 screws which secure ground brushes to frame. 7. On field coil that operates starter drive gear actuating lever, bend tab up on field coil retaining sleeve and remove sleeve. 8. Remove 3 coil retaining screws with Ford tool 10044-A and an arbor press. 'Figure 4) Arbor press prevents wrench from slipping out of screw. Unsolder field coil leads from terminal screw and remove pole shoes and coils from frame. Use a 300-watt iron. 9. Cut (or unsolder) insulated brush leads from field coils as close to field connection point as possible. 10, Remove starter terminal nut, washer, insulator and terminal from starter frame. Remove any excess solder from terminal slot. Tool 10044-A USE Arbor Press TO HOLD Tool IN SCREW SOCKET Wrench STARTER FRAME "V" Block BE SURE SEAT~DRTVE HEAD IN SCREW SOCKET TO" Figure 4. Pole Shoe Screw Removal 3A-22 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Figure 5. Starter - Exploded View COMPONENT CHECKS ARMATURE ARMATURE TEST FOR SHORTS Check armature for short circuits by placing on growler and holding hack saw blade over armature core while armature is rotated. (Figure 6) If saw blade vibrates, armature is shorted. Recheck after cleaning between commutator bars. If saw blade still vibrates, replace armature. Tester (C-91-52751) on Rxl scale, place one lead on armature core or shaft and other lead on commuta tor, 2. If meter hand on Analyzer or VOA Tester moves to right, armature is grounded and must be replaced. (Figure 7) Figure 6. Armature lest for Shorts ARMATURE TEST FOR GROUND 1. With Magneto Analyzer (C-91-25213) selector switch set on Scale No. 3 (Continuity), or using VOA Figure 7. Armature Test for Ground FIELD COIL FIELD COIL TEST FOR OPEN CIRCUIT 1. With Magneto Analyzer selector switch set on Scale No. 3 (Continuity), or using VOA Tester on Rxl scale, place one lead on each end of field coils. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3A-1 5 2. If meter hand on Analyzer or VOA Tester does not Rxl scale, place one lead on field coil connector move to right, field coils are open and must be and other lead on field frame. replaced. (Figure 8) 2. If meter hand moves to right, field coils are grounded. (Figure 9) 04971 FIELD COIL TEST FOR GROUND 1 Kith Magneto .Analyzer selector switch set on Scale No. 3 (Continuity), or using VOA Tester on Figure 9. Field Coil Test for Ground CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Use a brush or air to clean field coils, armature, in length. commutator, armature shaft, brush end plate and drive 6. Check brush spring tension. Replace springs if tension end housing. Wash all other parts in solvent and dry is not within specified limits (40 ounces minimum) the parts. 7. Inspect field coils for burned or broken insulation 2. inspect armature windings for broken or burned insulation and continuity. Check field brush connections and and unsoldered connections. lead insulation. (A brush kit and a contact kit are 3. Check armature for open circuits and grounds. available} Replace, rather than repair, all other 4. Inspect armature shaft and 2 bearings for scoring and assemblies, excessive wear. On a starter with needle bearings, 8. Examine wear pattern on starter drive teeth. Pinion apply a small amount of New Multipurpose Lubricant teeth must penetrate to a depth greater than 1/2 ring (C-92-49588) to needles. If commutator is rough or gear tooth depth to eliminate premature ring gear out-of-round, turn it down. and starter drive failure. 5. Check brush holders for broken springs and insulated 9. Replace starter drives and ring gears with mi lied, pitted brush holders for shorts to ground. Tighten rivets that or broken teeth or those which show evidence of inademay be loose. Replace brushes, if worn to V" (6.35mm) quate engagement. SUMMARY OF STARTER CHECKS Component Connection Reading Result Armature 1. Armature on growler. Hack saw blade over armature core. 2. Analyzer from armature core to commutator. Sow vibrotes Low Shorted Grounded Component Connection Reading Result Field Coi! 1. Analyzer to each end of field coils. 2. Analyzer from field coil to field frame. Low Low Open Grounded TURNING the COMMUTATOR Follow same procedure as outlined in Delco-Remy starter, preceding. 3A-10 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM REASSEMBLY 1. install starter terminal, insulator, washers and retaining nut in frame, (Figure 10) Be sure to position slot in screw perpendicular to frame end surface. 2. Position coils and pole pieces with coil leads in terminal screw slot, then install retaining screws. (Figure 5) As pole shoe screws are tightened, strike frame several sharp blows with a soft-faced hammer to seat and align pole shoes, then stake the screws. 3. Install solenoid coil and retainer and bend tabs to retain coils to frame. 4. Solder the field coils and solenoid wire to starter terminal, using rosin core solder. Use a 300-watt iron. 5. Check for continuity and grounds in assembled coils. 6. Position new insulated field brushes lead on field coil terminal. Install clip (provided with brushes) to hold brush lead to terminal. Solder the lead, clip and terminal together, using rosin core solder (Figure 10) Use a 300-watt iron. 7. Position solenoid coil ground terminal over nearest ground screw hole. 8. Position ground brushes to starter frame and install retaining screws. (Figure 10) 9. Position starter brush end plate to frame with end plate boss in frame slot. 10. Apply thin coat of New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-9249588) on armature shaft splines. Install starter motor drive gear assembly to armature shaft and install new retaining stop ring. Install new stop ring retainer. 11. Position fiber thrust washer on commutator end of armature shaft and position armature in starter frame. 12. Position starter drive gear plunger lever to frame and starter drive assembly and install pivot pin. 13. Position starter drive plunger lever return spring and drive end housing to frame and install and tighten thru bolts to specification (55-75 inch pounds). DO NOT pinch brush leads between brush plate and frame. Be sure that stop ring retainer is seated properly in drive housing. STARTER DRIVE 1. Loosen and remove brush cover band and starter drive plunger lever cover. (Figure 5) 2. Loosen thru bolts to allow removal of drive end housing and starter drive plunger lever return spring. If starter has a needle bearing, and bearing is not being replaced, insert a dummy shaft in housing to prevent loss of any bearing needles. Before assembly, apply small amount of grease to needles. 3. Remove pivot pin (retaining starter drive plunger lever) and remove lever. 4. Remove drive gear stop ring retainer and stop ring from end of armature shaft and remove drive gear assembly. 5. Apply thin coat of New Multipurpose Lubricant (C- Figure 10. Field Coil Assembly 14. Install brushes in brush holders. Be sure to center brush springs on brushes. 15. Position drive gear plunger lever cover on starter and install brush cover band with gasket. Tighten band retaining screw. 16. Check starter no-load current draw, REPLACEMENT 92-49588) on armature shaft splines. Install drive gear assembly on armature shaft and install new stop ring. 6. Position starter gear plunger lever on starter frame and install pivot pin. Be sure that plunger lever properly engages starter drive assembly. 7. Install new stop-ring retainer. Position starter drive plunger lever return spring and drive end housing to starter frame, then tighten thru bolts to 55-75 in. lbs. (9.8-13.3 kg/cm). 8. Position starter drive plunger lever cover and brush cover Dand (with its gasket) on starter. Tighten brush cover band retaining screw7. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3A-2S BRUSH REPLACEMENT Replace starter brushes when worn to '4" (6.35mm). Always install a complete set of new brushes, 1. Loosen and remove brush cover band, gasket and starter drive plunger lever cover. Remove brushes from their holders, 2. Remove 2 thru bolts from starter frame. 3. Remove drive end housing and plunger lever return spring. If starter has a needle bearing, and bearing is not being replaced, insert a dummy shaft in housing to prevent loss of any bearing needles. Before assembly, apply small amount of grease to the needles. 4. Remove starter drive plunger lever pivot pin and lever, then remove armature, 5. Remove brush end plate. 6. Remove ground brush retaining screws from frame and remove brushes (cut ground brush nearest starter terminal from brush terminal block as close to brush lead terminal as possible). 7. Cut insulated brush leads from field coils as close to field connection point as possible. 8. Clean and inspect starter motor. 9. Replace brush end plate, if insulator between field brush holder and end plate is cracked or broken. 10. Position new insulated field brushes lead on field ARMATURE 1. Loosen brush cover band retaining screw and remove brush cover band, gasket and starter drive plunger lever cover. Remove brushes from their holders. 2. Remove thru bolts, drive end housing and drive plunger lever return spring. If starter has a needle bearing, and bearing is not being replaced, insert a dummy shaft in housing to prevent loss of any bearing needles. Before assembly, apply small amount of grease to needles. 3. Remove pivot pin (retaining starter gear plunger lever) and remove lever. 4. Remove armature. If starter drive gear assembly is being reused, remove stop ring retainer and stop ring from end of armature shaft and remove drive. 5. Place drive gear assembly on new armature with a coil connection. Position and crimp clip (provided with brushes) to hold brush lead to connection. Solder lead, clip and connection together, usir.g rosin core solder. (Figure 10) Use a 300-watt iron. 11. Install ground brush leads to frame with retaining screws. Ground brush with over-size, unthreaded hole is placed under terminal from which previous ground brush was cut. 12. Clean commutator with 00 or 000 sandpaper, 13. Position brush end plate to starter frame with end plate boss in frame slot. 14. Position fiber washer on commutator end of armature shaft and install armature in starter frame. 15. Install starter drive gear plunger lever to frame and starter frame assembly, then install pivot pin. 16. Position return spring on plunger lever and drive end housing to starter frame. Install thru bolts and torque to 55-75 in. lbs, (9.8-13.3kg/cm), Be sure that slop ring retainer is seated properly in drive end housing. 17. Install commutator brushes in brush holders. Center brush springs on brushes. 18. Position plunger lever cover and brush cover band (with its gasket) on starter. Tighten band retaining screw. 19. Connect starter to a battery to check its operation. REPLACEMENT new stop ring. 6. Install fiber thrust washer on commutator end of armature shaft and install armature. 7. Position drive gear plunger lever to frame and drive gear assembly and install pivot pin. 8. Position drive plunger lever return spring, drive end housing and front end plate to starter frame, then install and tighten thru bolts to specification, Be sure that stop ring retainer is seated properly in drive housing. 9. Place brushes in their holders and center brush springs on brushes. 10. Position plunger lever cover and brush cover band (with its gasket), then tighten retaining screw, 11. Connect starter to a battery to check its operation. LUBRICATION Periodic lubrication of starting motor is not required. INSTALLATION 1. Position starter assembly to flywheel housing and its mounting surface and fully inserted into pilot hole. start mounting bolts. Torque bolts to specification. 2, Snug all bolts while holding starter squarely against 3. Connect starter cable. SPECIFICATIONS Refer to "Specifications" Section 8 for starter specifications. 3A-26 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SOLENOID REMOVAL NOTE: and All MerCruiser, "215". except "60". "80", "90" 1. Remove starting motor as previously described, 2. Remove outer screw and washer from motor connector strap terminal, 3. Remove 2 screws which retain solenoid housing to drive housing. 4. Twist solenoid clockwise to remove flange key from keyway slot in housing, then remove solenoid assemblv. REPLACEMENT of CONTACTS NOTE: For MerCruiser "60", "80" and "90", replace entire solonoid. 1. With solenoid removed from motor, remove nuts and washers from switch ("S") and motor connector strap terminals. 2. Remove 2 solenoid end cover retaining screws and washers and remove end cover from solenoid body. 3. Conpress solenoid plunger contact ring slightly and remove outer spring, retainer, fiber washer and contact ring. (Figure 1) 4. Remove nut and washer from battery terminal on end cover and remove battery terminal. 5. Remove motor connector strap terminal and solder new terminal in position, 6. Using a new battery terminal, install terminal, washer and retaining nut to end cover. 7. Place new contact ring and fiber washer on plunger, compress contact ring and install retainer and outer spring. 8. Position end cover over switch and motor terminals and install end cover retaining screws. Also install washers and nuts on solenoid switch and starting motor terminals. SOLENOID INSTALLATION 1. Place solenoid in position on starter motor and twist solenoid counterclockwise to engage flange key in slot in housing. 2. Apply Gasket Sealer Compound (C-92-28804) to flange and field frame slot. 3. Install 2 solenoid to drive housing screws. 4. Bench test solenoid for proper operation and check pinion clearance as instructed. 5. Install starter motor on engine and test operation as instructed. Figure 1. Exploded View of Solenoid ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3A-27 STORAGE BATTERY MAINTENANCE 1. A strong battery must be maintained. If battery shows less than 9/2 volts when under starting load, it should be recharged. Check with DC voltmeter* A reading under 9% volts (measured at battery terminals under starting load) indicates insufficient voltage and subsequent shortage of power with result that motor will not turn fast enough to start, NOTE: When installing a new battery, make it a habit to wire brush tapered terminals and clamp terminals, then clean and grease them. This will pro tect against high resistance connections which make it difficult to keep battery fully charged and may contribute to low available voltage in entire elec trical starting system (and ignition system). Figure 1. Testing with Hydrometer 2. A 12-volt, full marine-type Quicksilver battery of a minimum 70-ampere-hour capacity is recommended for all MerCruiser engines. NOTE: Check also can be made with hydrometer. (Figure I) If reading is below 1.230 (specific gravity), recharge or replace present battery. Battery and battery readings in this manual refer to "Quicksilver'' 12-volt battery. CAUTION: Lead acid batteries have an inherent, self-discharge characteristic which necessitates recharging (when not in use) every 30-45 days. Failure to do so will result in plate sulfation which will permanently damage the battery. The company cannot be responsible for battery dam age, either in winter storage or in dealer stock, il above information is not stricllv complied with. 3. When adding distilled water to battery, be extremely- careful not to fill more than 3/16" (4.3mm) above perforated baffles inside battery. Battery solution or electrolyte expands from heat caused by charging. Overfilling battery will cause electrolyte to overflow, if filled beyond 3/16" above baffles. 4. If specific gravity drops below 1.230, check battery for reason and recharge battery. Battery recharge rate should not be over 4 amperes. When gravity reaches recommended gravity reading (see chart, following), discontinue charging. AMDERE CAPACITY 1. New storage batteries, which are not initially fully- charged, supply insufficient amperage and voltage capacity to starting (cranking) motor and results in few engine starts before battery no longer turns starter motor fast enough to start engine. 2. A dry-charge battery should not be filled with electrolyte until sold. After battery has been filled, wait 15 minutes and check specific gravity of each cell with a hydrometer. If specific gravity drops below 1.230 in any cell, bring battery up to full charge before placing in service. Bring battery to full charge with a slow charge for 2-to-3 hours at 5-6 ampere rate. TABLE of GRAVITY READINGS 1. Specific gravity of electrolyte in a charged battery, which contains approximately 39 percent sulphuric acid, is 1.290. Specific gravity of a discharged battery, which contains approximately 14 percent acid, is 1.100. Specific gravity readings between these 2 extremes indicate various states of battery charge. Refer to following tabulation which translates specific gravity into general terms of battery siate of charge. Table is based on battery's ability to crank engine at 80°F. It is assumed that no electrolyte has been lost from the battery and that adjustment at full charge is correct. Capacity Reading* Battery Condition 1.260 Sp. Gr. 100% Charged 1.230 Sp. Gr. 75% Charged 1.200 Sp. Gr. 50% Charged 1.170 Sp. Gr. 25% Charged 1.140 So. Gr. Very Little Useful Capacity 1.110 So. Gr. Di scharged * Based on a temperature of 80° F. 2. To obtain accurate measurements of battery's state of charge, consider temperature as well as the specific gravity. Specific gravity of electrolyte varies not only with amount of sulphuric acid in solution, but also with temperature of solution. As electrolyte is cooled, it contracts, becoming more dense and gaining specific gravity. When electrolyte is heated, it expands, becoming less dense and losing in specific gravity. 3A-28 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM BATTERIES in PARALLEL 1. To increase amperage hour capacityconnect 2 or more batteries together. terminal of one battery is connected toof second battery. Negative (-) terminal of a battery, Positive (+) like terminal is connected to negative terminal of second battery. Two 35 ampere- hour capacity batteries in parallel are equal to70 ampe re-hours. Example: 35 + 35 = 70 Ampere-Hours 70 + 70 = 140 Ampere-Hours 2. Any electrical accessories, such as horns, running lights, etc, should be installed with electrical connections attached directly to clamps on battery terminals. CONVERTING ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES 1. Following electrical accessories, if manufactured for a 6-volt system, may be converted to a 12-volt system: Radio: Usually considerable internal modification. Refer most radios to radio expert only. Stove: Change 6-volt elements to 12-volt elements on some; on others, change impossible. Running Lights: Change to 12-volt bulbs or connect 2 identical bulbs in series. Search Light: Change to 12-volt bulb or 12-volt sealed element. Fuel Pump: Change to 12-volt fuel pump or consult manufacturer of pump on possible use of 6-volt pump on 12-volt system. Bilge Pump: See fuel pump (above). Horns: See fuel pump (above). 2. Rugged, attractive MercElectric battery boxes have been designed for Quicksilver aircraft-type batteries. New battery boxes, which can be mounted on transom of most boats, 1) hold battery snugly, 2) prevent damage to battery and boat, 3) protect battery cables and 4) facilitate easy installation and removal of battery from box. WINTER STORAGE of BATTERIES Battery companies are not responsible for batter;, damage either in winter storage or in dealer stock if the following instructions are not complied with: 1. Remove battery from its installation as soon as possible and remove all grease, sulfate and dirt from top surface by turning a hose on top of battery. Be sure, however, that vent caps are tight beforehand, and blow off all excess water thoroughly with compressed air. Check water level, making sure that plates are covered, 2. When adding distilled water to battery, be extremely careful not to fill more than 3/16" (4.8mm) above perforated baffles inside battery. Battery solution or electrolyte expands from heat caused by charging. Over-filling batten' will cause electrolyte to overflow (if filled beyond 3/16" above baffles). 3. Grease terminal bolts well with cup grease or New- Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588) and store battery in COOL-DRY place. Remove battery from storage every 30-45 days, check water level and put on charge for 5 or 6 hours at 6 amperes, DO NOT FAST CHARGE. 4. If specific gravity drops below 1.240.check battery for reason and recharge. Khen gravity reaches 1.260, discontinue charging. To check specific gravity, use a hvdrometer, which can be purchased locally. (Figure 1) 5. Repeat preceding charging procedure every 30-45 days, as long as battery is in storage, for best possible maintenance during inactive periods to insure a good serviceable battery in spring. When ready to place battery back in service, remove excess grease from terminals (a small amount is desireable on terminals at all times), recharge again as necessary and reinstall in vour equipment, » hen charging 2 or more batteries, connect them in series, positive (+) terminal of one to negative (-) terminal of next. WARNING: Hydrogen and oxygen gases are produced during normal battery operation or charging. Sparks or flame can cause this mixture to ignite and explode, if they are brought near the vent openings. Sulphuric acid in battery can cause serious burns, if spilled on skin or in eyes. Flush or wash away immediately with clear water. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3A-15 SECTION 3 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM PART B - IGNITION SYSTEM INDEX Page I gnition System Description 3B- 1 ComponentsPrecautions . 3B-1 3B-1 Troubleshooting . 3B-2 Breaker Point Ignition 3B-3 MerCruiser 4 and 6-Cylinder Engines 3B-3 Inspection 3B-3 Lubrication 3B-3 Cam Wick Replacement 3B-3 Adjusting Ignition Points 3B-3 Removal (4 and 6-Cylinder) 3B-3 Disassembly 3B-4 Cleaning and Inspection 3B-5 Reassembly 3B-5 Installation 3B-5 MerCruiser Marine 60, 30 and 90 3B-8 Lubrication 3B-8 Adjusting Points 3B-8 Removal 3B-8 Disassembly 3B-8 Cleaning and Inspection 3B-9 Reassembly 3B-9 Installation.............................................................................................3B-10 MerCruiser 8-Cylinder Ignition . . ...........................3B-11 Inspection ...3B-11 Cam Wick Replacement ................................3B-11 Adjusting Ignition Points........................................................................3B-11 Checking Spark Plugs Removal .......................3B-11 Checking for Spark at Spark Plug Lead Disassembly ...........3B-13 Checking for Spark at Coil Cleaning and Inspection ......................................................3B-13 Wiring and Connections Autolite Distributor 3B-15 Distributor Trigger, Switch Box and Coil Inspection, Lubrication and Removal ............3B-15 Thunderbolt Ignition Service Disassembly Cleaning and Inspectior Adjusting I gnition Poin-s Ignition Contact PointsCriteria for Replacing PointsAbnormal Point WearBurning of PointsPitting of PointsCleaning of Points Setting and Alignment of Points -4 and 6-Cylinder Engines, except 60,80 and 90MerCruiser 60, 80 and 90Contact Point Replacement -4 and 6-Cylinder Distributor Contact Point Replacement - 8-Cy linder Distributor All "]-" (Special) Tools Adjusting Dwell Angle - 8-Cylinder Distributor Coil and Resistor ChecksSecondary Resistance and PolarityIgnition Output and Secondary Linkage Distributor Condenser PerformanceBreakdownLow Insulction Resistan ce (Leakage) High Series ResistanceCapacity Spark PlugsInspectionSpark Plug Interchangeabi lity Spark Plug DiagnosisBatteryBreaker Point Ignition Timing Timing Mark LocationTiming MerCruiser Engines (Except 60-80-90) Timing MerCruiser 60, 80 and 90 Engine Not Running Engine Running Thunderbolt IgnitionDescriptionComponentsPrecautionsThunderbolt Ignition Checks Checking Thunderbolt Ignition System 3B-15 Removal 3B-16 Disassembly 3B-17 Reassembly 3B-18 Installation 3B-18 Mallory Distributor 3B-18 Inspection (Distributor in Engine) 3B-18 Lubrication 3B-18 Adjusting Ignition Points 3B-33 3B-18 Removal 3B-33 Disassembly 3B-33 3B-18 Cleaning and Inspection 3B-33 3B-19 Reassembly 3B-34 3B-19 Installation 3B-34 . . .3B-20 TOOLS Listed in This Section May Be Purchased from: Kent-Moore, Inc. 28635 Mound Road Warren, Mich. 48089 Page 3B-21 3B-22 3B-22 3B-22 3B-22 3B-22 3B-22 3B-22 3B-22 3B-22 3B-23 3B-23 3B-23 3B-23 3B-24 3B-25 3B-25 3B-25 3B-25 3B-25 3B-26 3B-27 3B-27 3B-27 3B-27 3B-27 3B-27 3B-27 3B-27 3B-28 3B-28 3B-29 3B-30 3B-30 3B-30 3B-31 3B-32 3B-33 3B-33 3B-33 IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION This section is divided into (1) breaker point ignition, required within the ignition system. Removal, installation, (2) "60", "80" and "90" ignition system and (3) Thun-cleaning and inspection and disassembly of the ignition derbolt Ignition. It covers general ignition system per-components are included. formance, specifications and adjustment procedures COMPONENTS The breaker point ignition system consists of a distrib-ballast resistor. The Thunderbolt Ignition System conutor (including breaker points), ignition coil, ignition sists of a trigger assembly, ignition coil, switch box switch, battery, spark plugs and, on some models, a assembly, ignition switch, battery and spark plugs. PRECAUTIONS 1. Do not reverse battery cable connections at the battery. WARNING: When testing or servicing the ignition System is negative (-) ground. system, it is of extreme importance that the fol 2. Do not "spark" battery terminals with battery cable lowing precautions be observed, as high voltage connectors to check polarity. is present. DO NOT touch or disconnect any 3. Do not disconnect battery cables while engine is run- ignition system parts while engine is running, ning. key switch is on, or while battery cables are 4. Use only test equipment as specified. System cannot connected. be checked with conventional ignition test equipment. Failure to comply with the following may result in dam-5. Follow service procedures in the order listed in the age to the ignition system. following information. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3A-1 5 TROUBLESHOOTING The Following Troubleshooting Chart Will Assist in Locating Source of Ignition Trouble. Sympton Probable Cause Symptom Probable Cause Starter turns engine but hard to start or won't start. A. Faulty coil or condenser. B. Moisture on ignition wires or distributor cap. C. Fouled spark plugs or improper plug gap. D. Improper ignition timing. E. Ignition points improperly gapped, burned or dirty. F. Cracked distributor cap or rotor. G. Poor connections or damaged ignition wiring. Poor idling. A. Loose distributor base plate bearing. B. Corroded wire ends or distributor towers. C. Incorrect distributor point gap. D. Fouled spark plugs or improper plug gap. E. Incorrect ignition timing. F. Overheated spark plugs. Engine mi sses whil e idl ing. A. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs; cracked porcelain. B. Broken or loose ignition wires. C. Burned or pitted contact points. D. Faulty coil or condenser. E. Weak battery. F. Distributor cap or rotor cracked or burned. G. Incorrect distributor advance or point d wel 1. H. Moisture on ignition wires, distributor cap or spark plugs. I. Excessive play in distributor shaft. Engine has loss A. Incorrect ignition timing. of power. B. Defective coil or condenser. C. Distributor rotor burned or cracked. D. Excessive play in distributor shaft. E. Worn distributor cam. F. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs Engine misses on acceleration. A. Distributor contact points dirty or im' properly gapped. B. Coil or condenser defective. C. Spark plugs dirty or gap too great. D. Incorrect ignition timing. Engine misses at high speed. A. Defective coil or condenser. B. Incorrect ignition timing. C. Distributor contact points dirty or incorrectly gapped. D. Distributor rotor burned or cracked. E. Excessive play in distributor shaft. F. Spark plugs dirty or gap set too wide. G. Distributor shaft cam worn. H. Faulty ignition wiring. Engine backfires. A. Spark plug cables improperly installed. B. Improper distributor timing. Engine knocks or pings (most noticeable on quick acceleration or at full throttle). A. Incorrect spark plugs. 3. Ignition timing advanced too far. Excessive fuel consumption. Poor acceleration. A. Incorrect ignition timing. E. Faulty distributor advance. C. Fouled spark plugs. A. Faulty coil. B. Loose distributor base plate bearing. CDistributor not advancing properly. D. Incorrect ignition timing. E. Incorrect spark plug gap. F. Fouled spark plugs. G. Overheated spark plugs. Fouled spark plugs. Burned spark plugs. Improper plug gap adjustment. A. Improper plug heat range, B. Improper ignition timing. 3A-10 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM BREAKER POINT IGNITION ENGINES INSPECTION 1. Remove distributor cap, clean cap and inspect for cracks, carbon tracks and bumed-out or corroded terminals. Replace cap if necessary. 2. Make sure all distributor wire terminals are clean and tight. 3. Clean rotor and inspect for damage or deterioration. Replace rotor if necessary. NOTE: Use notch on outer edge of distributor cap as a guide for proper replacement (over primary wire) of cap. It is possible to install incorrectly. Figure 1. Breaker Point Distributor LUBRICATION 1. Remove distributor cap every 100 hours. 2. Apply small amount of suitable high-melting-point, non- bleeding grease on distributor cam surface. CAM WICK REPLACEMENT 1. Distributors, equipped with cam lubricator, should have a cam lubricator. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LUBRICATE wick replaced at same time contact point set is re- THE WICK. Replace if necessary. placed. 3. When installing new wick, adjust its position so that 2. It is not necessary to lubricate breaker cam when using end of wick just touches lobe of breaker cam. ADJUSTING IGNITION POINTS (See "Ignition Contact Points", following in this section.) REMOVAL (4 and 6-CYLINDER) .NOTE: If necessary to remove secondary leads from 3. Remove distributor hold-down bolt and clamp and distributor cap, mark position on cap tower for lead remove distributor from engine. Note position of to No. 1 cylinder. This will aid in reinstallation of assembly relative to engine for correct reinstallation. leads in cap. Refer to Section 8 "Specifications" for (Figure 3) left hand or right hand rotation firing order. CAUTION: Avoid rotating engine with distributor 1. Disconnect distributor primary lead from coil terminal. removed, as ignition timing will be upset. 2. Scratch a realignment mark on distributor in line with rotor segment. (Figure 2) 470 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM-3A-1 5 Figure 2. Breaker Plate and Attaching Parts Figure 3. Distributor Location DISASSEMBLY NOTE: Late model distributors have an oil seal crankcase vapors are present between points. (located in distributor housing above upper bushing) Refer to Figure 4 for exploded view of distributor. and an additional bushing on bottom of distributor 4. Remove rotor. housing. 5. Disconnect primary and condenser leads from contact point quick disconnect terminal. Remove contact point 1. With distributor removed from engine, it is advisable set attaching screw, condenser attaching screw ana to place it in a distributor testing machine or synchro-remove point set and condenser from breaker plate. scope. 6. Remove breaker plate attaching screws and remove 2. When mounting distributor for tests, first secure gear breaker plate from distributor housing. (Figure 2) in drive mechanism, then push distributor housing down toward gear to take up end play between gear NOTE: Do not further disassemble breaker plate. and housing and, finally, secure housing in tester. 7. Remove roll pin retaining driven gear to main shaft and slide gear from shaft. NOTE: Dwell is not set during bench test. This 8. Slide cam and mainshaft from distributor housing. distributor depends upon its shaft bushing and engine 9. Remove weight cover and stop plate screws. Remove drive gear for rigidity. Unless a special collar is cover, weight springs, weights and slide cam assembly used during bench test, shaft "wobble" may give from mainshaft. an inaccurate dwell reading. 10. Remove main shaft bushing felt washer from housing. 3. Test distributor for variation of spark, correct centri-NOTE: Main shaft bushings in housing are not serfugal advance and condition of contacts. This test viced separetely. Housing and bushings are serviced evaluates distributor condition and possible parts as complete assembly. replacement. Check area on breaker plate just beneath breaker points. A smudgy line indicates that oil or 11. Remove gasket from shaft housing. 3B-4 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 373R1 CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Wash ail parts in cleaning solvent, except cap, rotor cleaned with a clean point file. Normal point condicondenser, breaker plate assembly and vacuum control tion is an overall grey color. unit (if present). Degreasing compounds may damage 8. If a test instrument for checking resistance is avail- insulation of these parts or saturate lubricating felt able, check point resistance. in case of breaker plate assembly. 9. Evaluate point quality by visual inspection and a 2. Inspect breaker plate assembly for damage or wear resistance or voltage drop check. and replace if necessary. 10. Replace points if badly worn, pitted or misaligned. 3. Inspect shaft for wear and check its fit in bushings 11. If, with points closed and ignition switch in "On" in distributor body. If shaft or bushings are worn, position, less than a 0.125 volt drop exists across rcplace shaft and distributor body. points, points are satisfactory. Make this check with a 4. Mount shaft in "V " blocks and check shaft alignment sensitive voltmeter or a point resistance meter avail- with a dial gauge. Run-out should not exceed .002" able for this purpose. (.0 51mm). 12. Test condenser for series resistance, microfarad 5. Inspect governor weights for wear or burrs and free capacity (.18 to .23), leakage or breakdown, following fit on their pins. instructions given by manufacturer of test equipment 6. Inspect cam for wear or roughness, then check its fit on used. end of shaft. It should be free, but not loose. 13. Inspect distributor cap and spark plug wires for 7. Examine distributor points. Dirty points should be damage. REASSEMBLY 1. Refer to Figure 6 for exploded view of distributor. Replace cam assembly to mainshaft. NOTE: Lubricate top end of shaft with light engine oil prior to replacement. 2. Install weights on their pivot pins and replace weight springs. Install weight cover and stop plate. (Figure 4) 3. Lubricate mainshaft and install it in distributor housing. 4. Install distributor driven gear to mainshaft and insert retaining roll pin. Check that shaft turns freely. NOTE: Install driven gear with mark on hub in line with rotor segment. 5. Position breaker plate assembly in housing and attach retaining screws. (Figure 2) 6. Attach condenser and contact point set in proper location with appropriate attaching screws. NOTE: Contact point-set pilot must engage matching hole in breaker plate. Connect primary and condenser leads to contact set quick disconnect terminal. 7. Install rotor to cam assembly. INSTALLATION ENGINE NOT DISTURBED 3. Replace and tighten distributor hold-down bolt and clamp. Connect primary lead to coil. Also install 1. Tum rotor approximately 1/8-turn in a clockwise direcspark plug and coil secondary wires, if removed. tion past mark previously scratched on distributor (Figure 5) housing. 2. Work distributor down into position in engine block NOTE: Wires must be installed, as indicated, to pre- with distributor positioned as noted during removal. vent cross-firing. Refer to Section 8 "Specifications" for left hand or right hand rotation firing order. NOTE: It may be necessary to move rotor slightly to start gear into mesh with camshaft gear, but rotor should line up with the mark when distributor is down 4. Time ignition as outlined under "Ignition Timing". in place. 373R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3B-5 Figure 5. Distributor Installed Figure 5. Distributor Installed b. Remove rocker cover and crank engine until No. 1 intake valve closes, continuing to crank slowly until pointer lines up with timing mark on crankshaft pulley. 2. Position distributor to opening in block in normal installed attitude. 3. Position rotor to point toward front of engine (with distributor housing held in installed attitude), then turn rotor counterclockwise approximately 1, 8-turn more toward left and push distributor down to engage camshaft. It may be necessary to rotate rotor slightly until camshaft engagement is felt. 4. While pressing down firmly on distributor housing, kick starter over a few times to make sure oil pump shaft is engaged. Install hold-down clamp and bolt and snug up bolt. 5. Turn distributor body slightly until points just open and tighten distributor clamp bolt. 6. Place distributor cap in position and check that rotor lines up with terminal for No. 1 spark plug. ENGINE DISTURBED 7. Install cap, distributor primary lead to coil. Check all high tension wire connections and connect spark 1. Locate No. I piston in firing position by either of 2 plug wires, if they have been removed. (Figure 5) methods described below. Wires must be installed in their proper location in a. Remove No. 1 spark plug and, with finger on plug supports to prevent cross-firing. hole, crank engine until compression is felt in No. 8. Start engine and set timing described under "Ignition 1 cylinder. Continue cranking until pointer lines Timing", following in this section. up with timing mark on crankshaft pulley or . . . 3B-6 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 373R1 1 Distributor Assembly 22 2 Gear, drive - main shaft 23 Main Shaft & Weight Plate 24 Pin 25 Cam, break er 26 Weight 27 Spring 28 8 Plate 29 9 Screw 30 10 Plate, mounting 31 11 Screw 32 12 Condenser 33 13 Breaker Assembly 34 14 Screw 35 15 Grommet 36 16 Lead, primary 37 17 Rotor, distributor 38 18 Washer, rotor 39 19 Cap, distributor 40 20 Button, carbon 41 21 Screw 42 Screw Gasket, distributor Lead Assembly Lead Assembly Lead Assembly Lead Assembly Protector Spark Plug (ACffR-44T) Reta iner Reta iner Wire Assembly Coil Assembly Bracket Screw Washer Nut Screw Washer Screw Clamp Unit Reta iner Figure 6. Distributor, 4 and 6-Cylinder Engines, Exploded View ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3B-7 373R1 high-melting-point, high-melting-point, MARINE "60", "80", "90" IGNITION MerCruiser "60", "80" and "90" Ignition Systems Are the Same as the 4 and 6-Cylinder Ignition System, except for the Following Procedures. LUBRICATION 1. Remove distributor cap every 100 hours. 2. Apply small amount of suitablenon-bleeding grease on distributor cam surface. 3. Remove rotor and add a drop of light engine oil to felt pad located in top of distributor cam shaft. (Figure 1) Figure 1. Distributor Component Location ADJUSTING POINTS See "Ignition Contact Points", following in this section. REMOVAL 1. Release distributor cap hold-down clamps, remove cap 3. Scratch a realignment mark on distributor in line with and place it out of work area. rotor segment. 4. Remove distributor hold-down bolt and clamp and NOTE: If necessary to remove secondary leads from remove distributor from engine. Note position of assem distributor cap, mark position on cap tower for lead to bly relative to engine for correct reinstallation. No. 1 cylinder. This will aid in reinstallation of leads in cap. CAUTION: Avoid rotating engine with distributor 2. Disconnect distributor primary lead from coil terminal removed, as ignition timing will be upset. and tilt switch lead from condenser mounting bracket. DISASSEMBLY 1. With distributor removed from engine, it is advisable Do not disassemble any further. to place it in a distributor testing machine or synchroscope. 2. When mounting distributor for tests, first secure drive coupling in drive mechanism, then secure housing in Weight tester. 3. Remove rotor and breaker assembly shield. 4. Test distributor for variation of spark, correct centrifugal advance and condition of contacts. This test will Weight give valuable information on distributor condition and indicate parts replacement which may be necessary. Spring 5. Loosen primary terminal screw. Cam 6. Remove contact point lock screw and lift contact point Shaft set from breaker plate. 7. Remove breaker plate attaching screws and remove breaker plate from distributor housing. Weight 8. Remove weight springs and weights and slide cam assembly from mainshaft. (Figure 2) Figure 2. Weight Springs and Weights Weight Spring 01468 3B-8 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 373R1 CLEANING and INSPECTION (Figure 3) 1. Wash all parts in cleaning solvent, except cap, rotor condenser and breaker plate assembly. Degreasing compounds may damage insulation of these parts or saturate lubricating felt in case of breaker plate assembly. 2. Inspect breaker plate assembly for damage or wear and replace if necessary. 3. Inspect shaft for wear and check its fit in bushings in distributor body. If shaft or bushings are worn, distributor should be replaced. 4 Inspect governor weights for wear or burrs and free fit on their pins. 5. Inspect cam for wear or roughness, then check its fit on end of shaft. It should be absolutely free, without any looseness. 6. Inspect condition of distributor points. Clean dirty points and replace badly pitted points. (See "Ignition Contact Points", following.) 7. Test condenser for series resistance, microfarad capacity, leakage or breakdown, following instructions given by manufacturer of test equipment used. 8. Inspect distributor cap and spark plug wires for damage. 1 Distributor Cop Assembly 9 Washer 2 Boll & Spring Assembly 10 Spring 3 Distributor Rotor 11 Condenser 4 Felt Washer 12 Lockwasher 5 Breaker Assembly Shield 13 Screw 6 Screw 14 Main Shaft Pin 7 Washer 15 Primary Terminol Screw 8 Breaker Assembly 16 Retai ner 17 Lockwasher 18 Screw 19 Spring Clip Figure 3. Exploded View of Distributor REASSEMBLY Refer to Figure 3 for exploded view of distributor. 3. Position breaker plate assembly in housing and install 1. Replace cam assembly to mainshaft. attaching screws. 4 Place contact point assembly in position on breaker NOTE: Lubricate top end of shaft with light engine oil plate and install lock screw and tighten primary terprior to replacing. minal screw. 5. Adjust points as described under "Setting and Align2. Install weights on their pivot pins and replace weight ment of Points", following this section. springs. 6. Install breaker shield assembly and rotor. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM -3B-9 373R1 INSTALLATION ENGINE NOT DISTURBED 1. Align rotor with mark previously scratched on distributor housing. 2. Work distributor down into position in engins block with distributor positioned as noted during removal. NOTE: It may be necessary to move rotor slightly to align coupling with camshaft gear, but rotor should line up with the mark when distributor is down in place. 3. Replace and tighten distributor hold-down bolt and clamp. Connect primary lead to coil and tilt switch lead to condenser mounting bracket. Also install spark plug and coil secondary wires if removed. 4. Time ignition as outlined under "Ignition Timing", following in this section. ENGINE DISTURBED 1. Locate No. 1 piston in firing position by either of 2 methods described below. a. Remove No. 1 spark plug and, with finger on plug hole, crank engine until compression is felt in No. 1 cylinder. Continue cranking until pointer lines up with timing mark on alternator flywheel or . . . b. Remove rocker cover and crank engine until No. 1 intake valve closes. Continue to crank slowly until pointer lines up with timing mark on alternator flywheel. NOTE: No. 1 cylinder is cylinder nearest transom. 2. MerCruiser "60" : Drive pinion now should be positioned so that slot in gear is at right angle to engine center line, and large offset is toward dipstick. (Figure 4) MerCruiser ""80": Dri vepinion now should bepositioned so that slot in gear is in line with centerline and small offset is toward camshaft. (Figure 5) Figure 5. Installing Distributor Drive Pinion for MerCruiser "80 " MerCruiser "90" Drive pinion now should be positioned so that slot in gear is at a 53° angle from centerline. which is square with camshaft, and with largest offset toward camshaft. (Figure 6) 3. Position rotor so that it is pointed at No. 1 spark plug terminal of distributor cap. 4. Place distributor body in position in cylinder block. It Figure 6. Installing Distributor Drive Pinion for MerCruiser "90 " may be necessary to turn rotor slightly to align drivn slot. 5. Turn distributor body slightly until points just open and tighten distributor hold-down clamp. 6. Place distributor cap in position and check that rotor lines up with terminal for No. 1 spark plug. 7. Install breaker shield assembly and rotor. 8. Install cap, distributor primary lead to coil and tilt switch lead to condenser mounting bracket. Check all high tension wire connections and conncct spark plug wire, if removed. 9. Set timing as outlined under "Ignition Timing", following in this section. 3B-10 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 373R1 DELCO-REMY 8-CYLINDER DISTRIBUTOR INSPECTION 1. Remove distributor cap, clean cap and inspect for cracks, carbon tracks and bumed-out or corroded terminals. Replace cap if necessary. (Figure 1) 2. Make sure all distributor wire terminals are clean and tight. 3. Clean rotor and inspect for damage or deterioration. Replace rotor if necessary. 4. Inspect breaker assembly for damage, wear and dirty or badly pitted points. Replace if necessary. (See "Ignition Contact Points", following.) NOTE: Use notch on outer edge of distributor cap as a guide for proper replacement (over primary wire) of cap. It is possible to install incorrectly. Figure 1. Breaker Point Distributor - 8-Cylinder LUBRICATION 1. Remove distributor cap every 100 hours. 2. Apply small amount of suitable high-melting-point, non- bleeding grease on distributor cam surface. CAM WICK REPLACEMENT 1. Distributors, equipped with cam lubricator, should have a cam lubricator. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LUBRICATE wick replaced at same time contact point set is THE WICK. Replace if necessary. replaced. 3. When installing new wick, adjust its position so that 2. It is not necessary to lubricate breaker cam when using end of wick just touches lobe of breaker cam. ADJUSTING IGNITION POINTS See "Setting and Alignment of Points", following in this section. REMOVAL 1. Disconnect distributor primary wire from coil. 3. Remove distributor clamp screw and hold down clamp, 2. Remove distributor cap (place screwdriver in screw then remove distributor. slot of latch, press down and tum 1/4-turn in either 4- If necessary to remove secondary leads from distributor cap, mark position on cap tower for lead to No. 1 direction). cylinder. This will aid in reinstallation of leads in NOTE: Mark position of rotor arm so that distributor cap. may be reinstalled in same position. 373R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3B-1 1 1 Cap, distributor 22 Condenser 2 Button, carbon 23 Brack et 3 Rotor, distributor 24 Screw 4 Screw 25 Felt Wick 5 Lockwasher 26 Retainer, felt wick 6 Spring 27 Washer, felt mounting plate 7 Weight 28 Housing, primary 8 Shaft, main 29 Seal 9 SI eeve 30 Grommet 10 Cam, breaker 31 Lead Wire, primary 11 Plate, mounting 32 Oiler 12 Lead, ground 33 Vacuum Control 13 Spring, retaining 34 Screw 14 Breaker Assembly 35 Lockwasher 15 Screw 36 Gear & Cross Shaft 16 Clip 37 Washer 17 Insulator 38 Coupling, cross shaft 18 Screw, adjusting 39 Washer, main shaft 19 Spring 40 Gear, drive main shaft 20 Retainer 41 Pin 21 Screw 42 Cap 3B-12 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 373R1 DISASSEMBLY It is advisable to place distributor in a distributor testing machine or synchroscope after removing from engine. NOTE When mounting distributor for tests, first secure gear in drive mechanism, then push distributor housing down toward gear to lake up end play between gear and housing and, finally, secure housing in tester. Test distributor ior variation of spark, correct centrifugal advance and condition of contacts. This test evaluates distributor condition and possible parts replacement. Check area on breaker plate just beneath breaker points. A smudgy line indicates that oil or crankcase vapors are present between points. 1. Remove rotor. 2. Remove both weight springs and both advance weights. (Figure 2) CLEANING and NOTE: Shaft bushings in housing are not serviced. If bushings are defective, housing is serviced as complete assembly. 3. File off head of driven gear pin and drive out pin. 4. Slide gear off shaft. 5. Remove burrs around pin hole in shaft with flat file. These burrs will damage housing bushing if not removed before removal of shaft 6. P'.'ll shaft and cam weight base assembly from housing. 7. Remove circuit breaker cam and weight base assembly from shaft. 8. Remove condenser hold-down screw, condenser and bracket from breaker plate. 9. Remove cam lubricator. 10. Remove spring retainer and remove breaker plate from housing. 11. To remove vacuum advance unit (not used), remove 2 attaching screws and washers and plate ground lead. 12. Remove felt washer from around bushing in housing. 13. Remove gasket from shaft housing. INSPECTION Refer to "Cleaning and Inspection", 4 and 6-cylinder models, preceding. REASSEMBLY (Refer to Figure 2) 1. Replace gasket on shaft housing. 2. Replace felt washer around bushing in housing. 3. Replace vacuum advance unit (not used). 4. Install breaker plate in housing and spring retainer on upper bushing. 5. Replace condenser. 6. Replace contact set assembly. 7. Replace cam and weight base assembly on shaft. NOTE: !f lubrication in grooves at top of shaft was removed during disassembly and inspection, replace with Plastilube No. 2. 8. Install shaft and cam weight assembly in housing. 9. Install driven gear to shaft with new pin. 10. Install advance weights and springs. 11. Install cam lubricator. 12. Replace rotor. 13. Check for dwell angle as described previously under "Adjusting of Dwell Angle." INSTALLATION ENGINE NOT DISTURBED 1. Turn rotor about 1/8-turn counterclockwisepreviously placed on distributor housing. 2. Push distributor down into position inhousing in normal "installed" position. NOTE: It may be necessary to move rotorstart gear into mesh with camshaft gear, should line up with mark when distributor is down in place. 3. Tighten distributor clamp screw snugly, connect primary wire to terminal and install cap. Also install spark plug and high tension wires to cap if removed. (Figure 4) Be sure that spark plug wires are installed in proper locations in supports, as shown. NOTE: Grommets are numbered to show correct installation. Wires must be installed as indicated to prevent cross-firing. 373R1 4. Time ignition as described in this section, following. past mark block with (Figure 3) slightly to but rotor Figure 3. Eight-Cylinder Distributor and Coil ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3B-13 b. Remove left bank rocker cover arid crank engine until No. 1 intake valve closes, then continue to crank slowly until pointer lines up with timing mark on crankshaft pulley. 2. Position distributor to opening in block in normal installed attitude. See Figure 3, noting position of vacuum control unit. 3. Position rotor to point toward front of engine (with distributor housing held in installed attitude), then turn rotor counterclockwise approximately 1/8 - turn more toward left cylinder bank and push distributor down to engage camshaft. It may be necessary to rotate rotor slightly until camshaft engagement is felt. 4. While pressing firmly down on distributor housing, kick starter overa few times to make sure that oil pump shaft is engaged. Install hold-down clamp and bolt and snug up bolt. 5. Turn distributor body slightly until points just open and tighten distributor clamp bolt. 6. Place distributor cap in position and check that rotor lines up with terminal for No. 1 spark plug. 7. Install cap, check all high tension wire connections Figure 4. and connect spark plug wires if they have been removed. (Figure 4) Be certain that wires are installed Spark Plug Wire Installation - "283" V-8 Engine in proper locations in supports. ENGINE DISTURBED NOTE: IVires must be installed, as indicated to pre 1. Locate No. 1 piston in firing position by either of 2 vent cross-firing. methods ("a" or "b"), following: 8. Connect distributor primary wire to coil terminal. a. Remove No. 1 spark plug and, with finger on plug 9. Start engine and set timing as described under "Ignition hole, crank engine until compression is felt in No. Timing", following in this section. 1 cylinder. Continue cranking until pointer lines up with timing mark on crankshaft pulley, or 01465 3B-14 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM AUTOLITE DISTRIBUTOR INSPECTION, LUBRICATION and REMOVAL Refer to "Inspection", "Lubrication" and "Removal" under "Delco-Remy 8-Cylinder Distributor", preceding. DISASSEMBLY (Distributor is shown in Figure I.) 5. Working from inside of distributor, pull primary wire through opening in distributor. 1. Remove rotor. 6. Remove 2 screws and remove breaker plate. 2. Disconnect primary and condenser wires from breaker 7. Mark one of the distributor weight springs and its point assembly. brackets. Also mark one of the weights and its pivot 3. Remove 2 screws and remove breaker point assembly. pin. 4. Remove screw and remove condenser. Figure 1. Autolite Distributor, Exploded View 1 Cop, distributor 11 Spring 21 Clamp 2 Rotor 12 Weight Retainer 22 Pin 3 Primary Wire 13 Weight 23 Clamp 4 Screw 14 Lubricating Wick 24 Pin 5 Condenser 15 Retainer 25 Housing 6 Screws 16 Cam Assembly 26 Oil Seal 7 Breoker Point Assembly 17 Thrust Washer 27 Thrust Washer (not used on standard rotation) 8 Screws 18 Bumper 28 Collar 9 Breaker Plate 19 Shaft 29 Pin 10 Spring 20 Upper Bushing 30 Gear 373R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3B-15 8. Carefully unhook and remove weight springs. 9. Lift lubricating wick from cam assembly. Remove cam assembly retainer and lift cam assembly off distributor shaft. Remove thrust washer. 10. Remove weight retainers and lift weights out of distributor. 11. Remove distributor cap clamps. 12. If gear and shaft are to be used again, mark gear and shaft so that pin holes can be easily aligned for assembly. Remove gear roll pin (Figure 2), then remove gear. 13. Remove shaft collar roll pin. 14. Invert distributor and place it on a support plate in a position that will allow distributor shaft to clear support plate. Press shaft out of collar and distributor housing. Figure 3. Removing Upper Bushing NOTE: Right hand rotation engines have an additional thrust washer located between collar and base, and gear is different. 15. Remove distributor shaft upper bushing. (Figure 3) Figure 2. Removing Gear Pin CLEANING and INSPECTION Refer to "Cleaning and Inspection" in 4 and 6-cv linder section. REASSEMBLY ORIGINAL SHAFT and GEAR 1. Oil the new upper bushing, and position it on bushing replacer tool. Install bushing. (Figure 4) When tool bottoms against distributor base, bushing will be installed to correct depth. 2. Burnish the bushing to proper size. 3. Oil the shaft and slice it into distributor body. 4. Place collar in position on shaft and align holes in collar and shaft, then install a new pin. Install distributor cap clamps. NOTE: Right hand rotation engines have an additional thrust washer located between collar and base, and gear is different. 5. Check shaft end play with a feeler gauge placed between collar and base of distributor. If end play is not within specifications, replace shaft and gear. 6. Attach distributor shaft supporting tool to distributor. Tighten backing screw in tool enough to remove all shaft end play. 7. Install assembly in a press. Press gear on shaft, using marks on gear and shaft as guides tc align pin holes. Figure 4. Installing Upper Bushing 3B-16 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 8. Remove distributor from press. Install gear retaining pin. 9. Position distributor in a vise. Fill grooves in weight pivot pins with a distributor cam lubricant. 10. Position weights in distributor (marked weight is placed on marked pivot pin) and install weight retainers. 11. Place thrust washer on shaft. 12. Fill grooves in upper portion of distributor shaft with distributor cam lubricant. 13. Install cam assembly. Be sure that marked spring bracket on cam assembly is near marked spring bracket on stop plate. If a new cam assembly is being installed, make sure that the cam is installed with hypalon covered stop in correct cam plate control slot. This can be done by measuring length of slot used on old cam and by using corresponding slot on new cam. Some cams will have size of slot in degrees stamped near slot. If wrong slot is used, incorrect maximum advance will be obtained. Place a light film of distributor cam lubricant on distributor cam lobes. Install retainer and wick. Oil wick with SAE 10W engine oil. 14. Install weight springs. Be sure that marked spring is attached to marked spring brackets. 1. Follow Steps 1, 2 and 3 under "Original Shaft and 15. Place breaker plate in position. Gear", preceding. 16. Install breaker plate hold-down screws. 17. Working from inside of distributor, push primary wire 2. Attach distributor shaft supporting tool to distributor thru opening in distributor. and install assembly in a vise. Insert 0.024" feeler 18. Slide diaphragm into opening in distributor and place gauge between backing screw and shaft. Tighten link in position. backing screw on tool enough to remove all shaft end 19. Install spring clip, which secures diaphragm link to play. Remove feeler gauge and allow shaft to rest moveable breaker plate, and install retaining screws. on backing screw. Slide collar on shaft. While holding 20. Place breaker point assembly and condenser in position collar in place against the distributor base, drill and install retaining screws. Align and adjust breaker 1 '8 " (3 2mm) hole thru shaft, using access opening in point assembly by following procedure for 8-cylinder collar as a pilot. engines. 3. Position gear on end of shaft. Install assembly in a 21. Connect primary and condenser leads to breaker point press. assembly. 4. With backing screw on support tool tightened enough 22. Install rotor and distributor cap. to remove all end play, press gear on shaft to specified 23. Check and adjust. distance from bottom face of gear to bottom face of distributor mounting flange. (Figure 5) Drill 1/8" NEW SHAFT and GEAR hole thru shaft, using hole in gear as a pilot. 5. Remove distributor from press and remove support tool. Shaft and gear are replaced as an assembly. One part Install collar retaining pin and gear retaining pin. should not be replaced without replacing the other. 6. Complete assembly by following steps 6-thru 23 under Refer to Figure 1 for placement of parts. "Reassembly - Original Shaft and Gear", preceding. ADJUSTING IGNITION POINTS Refer to "Setting and Alignment of Points", following. 373R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3B-17 IGNITION CONTACT POINTS CRITERIA for REPLACING POINTS 5. High series resistance in condenser circuit will prevent normal condenser action, so contact point will burn rapidly. This resistance may be caused b 1. Examine distributor points. Dirty points should be a loose condenser mounting or lead connection, or by cleaned with clean point file. Normal point condi poor connections inside condenser. See "Distributor tion is overall grey color. Condenser", following, for a discussion of condenser 2. If test instrument for checking resistance is avail- testing. able, check point resistance. 3. Criteria for point quality should be combination of PITTING of POINTS visual inspection and resistance or voltage drop check. Contact point pitting results from an out-of-balance condition in ignition system which causes transfer 4. Replace badly worn, pitted or misaligned points. 5. If (with points closed and ignition switch in "On " of tungsten from one point to other so that a tip position) less than 0.125 volt drop exists across points, builds up on one point while a pit forms in other. points are satisfactory. Make this check with a sensi-(Figure 1) tive voltmeter or a point resistance meter. ABNORMAL POINT WEAR NEGATIVE POSITIVE TO TO POSITIVE NEGATIVE 1. Under normal operating conditions, distributor contact points will provide many hundreds-of-hours of service. 2. Points, which have been operated for a period of time, have a rough surface, but this may not mean that points are worn out. Figure 1. Material Transfer 3. If points burn or pit, however, they soon become unsatisfactory for further operation. Not only must 2. Direction, in which tungsten transfers, can be used they be replaced, but ignition system and engine must as a basis for analysis and correction of pitting. For be checked to determine cause and elimination of example, if material transfers from negative to positive trouble. Unless condition, which causes point burning point, one or more of these corrections may be made. or pitting, is corrected, new points will provide no (Figure 1) Increase condenser capacity, shorten con- better service than old points, denser lead, separate distributor-to-coil low and high- tension leads or move these leads closer to ground. 3. If material transfers from positive to negative point BURNING of POINTS (Figure 1), reduce condenser capacity, move distributor- to-coil leads closer together, move these 1. Contact point burning results from high voltage, leads away from ground or lengthen condenser lead. presence of oil or other foreign material, defective condenser and improper point adjustment. CLEANING of POINTS 2. High voltage causes excessively high current flow thru contact points which burns them rapidly. High 1. Dirty contact points should be dressed with a few voltage can result from improperly adjusted or in-strokes of a clean, fine-cut contact file. File should operative voltage regulator. not be used on other metals and should not be allowed 3. Oil or crankcase vapors, which work up into distri-to become greasy or dirty. butor and deposit on point surfaces, cause them to burn rapidly. This is easy to detect, since oil produces NOTE: Never use emery cloth to clean contact points. a smudgy line under contact points. Clogged engine breather pipes permit crankcase pressure to force oil 2. Contact surfaces, after considerable use, may not or vapors up into distributor. Over-oiling distributor appear bright and smooth, but this is not necessarily also produces the condition. an indication that they are not functioning satisfactor 4. If contact point opening is too small (cam angle too ily. Do not attempt to remove all roughness nor dress large), points will be closed too large a part of total point surfaces down smooth. Merely remove scale or operating time. Average current flow thru points will dirt. be too high, so points will burn rapdily and arcing will 3. Badly burned or pitted contact points should be occur between points and result in low secondarv replaced and cause of trouble determined so that it voltage and engine miss. can be eliminated. SETTING and ALIGNMENT OF POINTS, 60-80-90, 4 and 6-Cylinder and V-8 (Ford) Engines with Autolite or Mallory Distributors 1. Contact points must be set with a feeler gauge to rapidly. Points with excessive separation cause a proper opening. Points set too close may burn and pit weak spark at high speed. 3B-18 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 373R1 2. Proper point settings for all models are listed under "Tuneup Specifications", Section 8. 3. New points must be set to larger opening, as rubbing block will wear down slightly while seating to cam. 4. Contact points should be cleaned before adjusting, if they have been in service. 5. To adjust contact point opening: a. Turn or crank distributor shaft until breaker arm rubbing block is on extreme top of a lobe of cam which will provide maximum breaker point opening. b. Loosen contact support lock screw. (Figure 2) c. Use adjusting slots or turn eccentric adjusting screw clockwise or counterclockwise to obtain correct opening for points. See "Tuneup Specifications", Section 8. d. Tighten contact support lock screw and recheck point Figure 3. Alignment of Points opening. e. Align points (Figure 3) by bending fixed contact support, if necessary, then recheck point opening. Do distributor cam lobes. Variation in cam angle read- not bend breaker lever. Align new points but do not ings between idle speed and 1750 engine RPM should attempt to align used points. Instead, replace used not exceed 3°. Excessive variation in this speed points where serious misalignment is observed. Use an range indicates wear in distributor. aligning tool, if available. NOTE: Cam angle readings, taken at speeds above 1750 engine RPM, may prove unreliable on some cam angle meters. ADJUSTING POINTS and DWELL ANGLE - MerCruiser 60, 80 and 90 NOTE: Clean used contact points before adjusting. 1. Loosen contact support lock screw and turn adjusting screw to obtain a .016" (.406mm) gap for MerCruiser "60" and .019" (.483mm) for MerCruiser "80" and "90". 2. Retighten contact support and lock screw. (Figure 1) 3. After checking and adjusting contact point opening to Figure 2. Setting Point Opening specifications, cam angle or dwell may be checked with a contact angle meter, if such equipment is available. Cam angle should be 56°-60° for Mer f. After checking and adjusting contact point opening Cruiser "60" and 55° new or 49° used for MerCruiser to specifications, cam angle or dwell may be "80" and "90". If cam angle is less than specified checked with a contact angle meter, if such equip- minimum, check for defective or misaligned contact ment is available. points or worn distributor cam lobes. Variation in cam angle readings between idle speed and 1750 engine If cam angle is less than specified minimum, check RPM should not exceed 3°. Excessive variation in this for defective or misaligned contact points or worn speed range indicates wear in distributor. CONTACT POINT REPLACEMENT 4 and 6-Cylinder Distributor 1. Release distributor cap hold-down screws, remove cap and place it out of work area. CAUTION: Carefully wipe protective film from 2. Remove rotor. point set prior to installation. 3. Pull primary and condenser lead wires from contact point quick disconnect terminal. (Figure 4) 4. Remove contact set attaching screw and lift contact NOTE: Pilot on contact set must engage matching point set from breaker plate. (Figure 4) hole in breaker plate. 5. Clean oil smudge and dirt from breaker plate. 6. Place new contact point assembly in position on 7. Connect primary and condenser lead wires to quick breaker plate and install attaching screw. disconnect terminal on contact point set. 373R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3B-19 Quick Disconnect Quick Disconnect will cause undue wear of contact points, cam and rubbing blcck. Breaker arm spring tension should be 19-23 ounces. Contact point pressure should be checked with a spring gauge. Scale should be hooked Terminal to breaker lever and pull exerted at 90° to breaker lever as shown in Figure Reading should be taken Contact Set Figure 5. Checking Breaker Arm Spring Tension Alignment Attaching Mark Screw 01457 just as points separate. Pressure can be adjusted by bending breaker lever spring. If pressure is ex- Figure 4. Breaker Plate and Attaching Parts cessive, it can be decreased by pinching spring 8. Check and adjust points for proper alignment and carefully. To increase pressure, remove lever from breaker arm spring tension. (Figure 5) Use an align-distributor so that spring can be bent away from lever. ing tool to bend stationary contact support, if points Avoid excessive spring distortion. need alignment. 9. Set point opening; see "Tuneup Specifications", NOTE: Contact point pressure must fall within Section 8. specified limits. Weak tension will cause chatter 10. Reinstall rotor and position and lock distributor cap which results in arcing and burning of points and an to housing. ignition miss at high speed, while excessive tension 11, Check and set ignition timing. CONTACT POINT REPLACEMENT 8-Cylinder Distributor 1. Contact point, set is replaced as one complete as-base with long-nosed pliers and lift out. Remove all sembly and only dwell angle requires adjustment after old lubricant from cam surface. Replace in same manner. replacement. Breaker lever spring tension and point alignment are factory set. 2. Remove distributor cap by placing a screwdriver in slot head of latch, press down and turn 1/4-turr. in either direction. 3. Remove 2 attaching screws (Figure 6) which hold base of contact set assembly in place. 4. Remove primary and condenser leads from their nylon insulated connection by turning screw (Figure 6) in contact set. 5. Reverse Steps 3 and 4 to install new contact set. Witk CAUTION: Install primary and condenser leads as shown in Figure 6. Improper installation will cause lead interference between cap. weight base and breaker advance plate . 6. If engine has 250 hours, cam lubricator wick (Figure 6) should be changed. Squeeze assembly together at Figure 6. Distributor Lead Arrangement Ground lead % Primary Lead Condenser Lead ^ 01462 3A-10 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM MOTE: Distributors equipped with cam lubricator caused by cam lubrication wick bearing too hard should have wick replaced at same time contact point against cam surface. A correctly-adjusted cam lubrica set is replaced. End of cam lubricant wick should tor wick will provide adequate lubrication for cam. be adjusted to just touch cam lobes. Over-lubrication Do not apply additional grease to cam surface. of cam, resulting in grease on contact points, can be ADJUSTING DWELL ANGLE 8-Cylinder Distributor 1. To adjust dwell angle (contact point opening), run engine at idle and raise window provided in distributor cap. 2. Insert a hex type wrench into head of adjusting screw, as shown in Figure 7. 3. Either of 2 methods may be used to set dwell angle: a. Turn adjusting screw until specified dwell angle of 28° to 32° (with 30° perferred) is obtained, as measured by a dwell meter. b. Turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) until engine begins to miss, then turn !4-turn in opposite direction. (This method is used only when dwell meter is not available.) 4. Since contact point set is factory aligned on assembly, dwell angle is only necessary adjustment. a. Correct contact point opening is important, especially during starting and low speed operation. If contact points are set too close, arcing and burning will cccur, thus causing hard starting and poor low speed performance. If points are set too wide, cam angle or dwell will be too small to allow saturation of coil at high engine speeds and will result in a weak spark. Distributor point opening has a direct bearing on cam angle or dwell, which is the number of degrees that breaker cam rotates from time points close until they open again. b. Replace points which are burned or badly pitted. FIND CAUSE OF TROUBLE. Where burned or badly pitted points are encountered, ignition system and engine should be checked by a servicing dealer to determine cause of trouble so that it can be eliminated. Unless condition, which causes point burning or pitting is corrected, new points will provide no better service than old points. 470 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM -3A-1 5 COIL and RESISTOR CHECKS SECONDARY RESISTANCE and POLARITY 1. Use Magneto Analyzer (C-91-25213). 2. Uniform normal readings, as specified by manufacturer, indicate all secondary circuit components are in good condition. 3. If all readings are below normal, check for corroded coil tower terminal, poorly connected or broken coil wire, center cap electrode or rotor tip burned or an open secondary in coil. 4. If readings are higher than normal at 2 or more plugs adjacent in firing order, cross-fire is occurring in distributor cap or between spark plug cables concerned. 5. If meter reads off scale to left, coil polarity is reversed. Check for reversed coil primary wires, wrong coil or reversed vehicle battery connections. DISTRIBUTOR PERFORMANCE Following 4 factors affect condenser performance, and each factor must be considered in making any condenser test. Breakdown—a failure of insulating material—a direct short between metallic elements of condenser. This prevents any condenser action. Low Insulation Resistance (Leakage)—prevents condenser from holding a charge. All condensers are subject to leakage which, up to a certain limit, is not objectionable. IGNITION OUTPUT and SECONDARY LINKAGE 1. Use Magneto Analyzer (C-91-25213). 2. GOOD readings indicate both ignition output and secondary insulation are good. 3. If all readings are BAD, or if ignition test calibrator cannot be adjusted to set line, check for high resistance in primary circuit, defective distributor points, coil or condenser. 4. If readings are BAD when certain plug wires are lifted off, check for cracks or carbon tracks in distributor cap or defective insulation on those plug wires being lifted off. CONDENSER High Series Resistance—excessive resistance in condenser circuit due to broken strands in condenser lead or to defective connections. This will cause burned points and ignition failure upon initial start and at high speeds. Capacity—determined by area of metallic elements and insulating and impregnating materials. For a complete check of condenser, use a tester which will check above conditions. Follow instructions given by manufacturer of test equipment. Condenser capacity should be .18-.23 microfarad. 3A-10 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SPARK PLUGS INSPECTION 1. Inspect each plug individually every 100 hours for badly worn electrodes, glazed, broken or blistered porcelain and replace where necessary. NOTE: Spark plugs should be replaced after 200 hours of operation. 2. Inspect each spark plug for make and heat range. All plugs must be the same make and number or heat range. Refer to "Specifications", Section 8, for spark plug numbers. CAUTION: Never bend the center electrode to adjust gap. Always adjust by bending ground or side electrode . 3. Adjust spark plug gaps with a round feeler gauge. Refer to "Specifications", Section 8,for spark plug gap (Figure 1) Replace defective plugs. 4. Install spark plugs to engine with new gaskets and torque as specified in "Specifications" section. NOTE: Improper installation is one of the greatest single causes of unsatisfactory spark plug performance. 5. Always use a new gasket and wipe seats in head clean. Gasket must be fully compressed on clean seats to complete heat transfer and provide a gas SPARK PLUG Figure 1. Adjusting Gap tight seal in cylinder. For this reason, as well as necessity of maintaining correct plug gap, correct torque is very important during installation. 6. Replace or repair any loose or damaged spark plug wires. Install all wires to proper spark plug. Proper positioning of spark plug wires in supports is important to prevent cross-firing. SPARK PLUG INTERCHANGEABILITY AC resistor-type spark plugs CR44N or CR43N are used on latest production MerCruiser 120-140-160-200 Engines. They are interchangeable with C44N or C43N spark plugs. As a service item, CR44N or CR43N plugs can be used on previously produced MerCruiser 110-12G-140(6-Cyl.)-160-200. Tapered seat spark plugs arc, not interchangeable with nontapered (with gasket) spark plugs. Refer to "Specifications" Section 8 for recommendations. DIAGNOSIS PLUG CONDITIONS FACTORS CAUSING THIS CONDITION CORRECTIVE ACTION Plug "Flash Over" (firing from upper terminal to base of plug) Dirty insulator tops—oil dirt and moisture on insulator will shunt current to base of plug. The above condition can be caused by failure of spark plug boot. Keep plugs wiped clean with cloth moistened with cleaning solvent. Check spark plug boot and replace if necessary. Lead Fouling (light and powdery or shiny glazed coating on firing end) By-products of combustion and fuel additives, deposited as a powder which may later melt and glaze on insulator tip. Remove deposits by blast cleaning. If this is not possible, plugs should be replaced . Damaged Shell Very seldom occurs, but cause is almost always due to mishandling by applying excessive torque during insta,lation. This failure is usually in the form of a crack in the Vee of the thread next to the seat gasket or at the groove below the hex. Replace with a new spark plug. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3B-23 373R1 SPARK PLUG DIAGNOSIS (CONTINUED) PLUG CONDITIONS FACTORS CAUSING THIS CONDITION CORRECTIVE ACTION Oil or Carbon Fouling Wet, black deposits on firing end of plug indicate oil pumping condition. This is usually caused by worn piston rings, pistons, cylinders or sticky valves. Soft, fluffy, dry black carbon deposits usually indicate a rich mixture operation, excessive idling, improper operation of automatic choke or faulty adjustment of carburetor. Hard, baked-on, black carbon deposits result from use of too cold a plug. Correct engine condition. In most cases, plugs in this condition will be serviceable after proper cleaning and regapping. If troubles are not eliminated, use "hotter" type plug. Use "hotter" type plug. Normal Electrode Wear Due to intense heat, pressure and corrosive gases together with spark discharge, the electrode wears and gap widens. Plugs should be regapped every 100 hours. Rapid Electrode Wear Condition may be caused by (1) burned valves, (2) gas leakage past threads and seat gaskets, due to insufficient installation torque or damaged gasket, (3) too lean a mixture or (4) plug too "hot " for operating speeds and loads. Correct engine condition. Install plugs to specified torque. Use a new spark plug seat gasket each time a new or cleaned spark plug is installed. Use "colder" type plug if condition continues to exist. Broken Upper Insulator (Firing around shel 1 crimp under load conditions) Careless removal or installation of spark plug. Replace with a new spark plug. Broken Lower Insulator (Firing Tip) The cause is usually carelessness in regapping by either bending of centerwire to adjust the gap or permitting the gapping tool to exert pressure against the tip of the center electrode or insulator when bending the side electrode to adjust the gap. Fracture of breakage of lower insulator also may occur occasionally if the engine has been operated under conditions causing severe and prolonged detonation or pre-ignition. Replace with a new spark plug. Use "colder"1 type plug for the particular type of operation. BATTERY Refer to "Starting Systems" in this section. 3B-24 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM BREAKER POINT IGNITION TIMING TIMING MARK LOCATION The timing marks and their locations are illustrated in Figures l-thru-7. TIMING MERCRUISER ENGINES (Except 60-80-90) 1. Connect timing light to No. 1 spark plug, using extension at plug. Connect power supply leads on light to battery (12 volts). Refer to "Specifications", Section 8, for cylinder numbering and location. 2. Connect tachometer to engine. 3. Start engine and run at 500 RPM. 4. Aim timing light at timing tab, located on timing gear cover and crankshaft pulley on "110 " or harmonic balancer on "140" and "V-8" engines. NOTE: Early production "110" and "140" engines have timing tab located at right (starboard) side of timing gear cover and timing notch on outer edge of crankshaft pulley or harmonic balancer. (Figures 1 and 2) Figure 3. Late Timing Tab on 4 & 6 Cylinder Figure 1. Early Timing Tab on "110" Late production "110" and "140" engines have timing tab located on left (port) side of timing gear cover and liming notch on inner edge of crankshaft pulley or harmonic balancer. (Figure 3) Figure 4. Timing Tab on V-8 Engine Markings on tabs are in 2° increments, with greatest number of markings on "A" side of "O"• All BTDC settings fall on the "A" (Advance) side of "O". 5. Adjust timing by loosening distributor clamp and rotating distributor body as required until timing mark on balancer or pulley lines up with mark on tab specified in "Specifications". Section 8. Tighten clamp and recheck location of timing mark. 6. Stop engine and remove timing light. Figure 5. Timing Line on "888-215-225H-TR and Figure 2. Early Timing Tab on "140" 255H-TR" Engines TIMING MERCRUISER 60, 80,and 90 ENGINE NOT RUNNING timing chain cover lines up with timing mark on 1. Locate No. 1 piston in firing position by either of 2 alternator flywheel, or methods described below. b. Remove rocker cover and crank engine until No. 1 a. Remove No. 1 spark plug and, with finger on plug intake valve closes, then continue to crank slowly hole, crank engine until compression is felt in until mark on timing chain cover lines up with tim- No. 1 cylinder. Continue cranking until mark on ing mark on alternator flywheel. (Figure 6) 373R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3B-25 NOTE: No. 1 cylinder is cylinder nearest transom. 2. Connect 12-volt test lamp or voltmeter between is tributor primary lead screw and to ground. 3. Turn on ignition switch. 4. Loosen distributor hold-down clamp and turn distributor counterclockwise until test lamp lights or voltmeter indicates 12 volts. This indicates that contact points are just opening. 5. Tighten distributor hold-down clamp. ENGINE RUNNING 1. Connect timing li^it to No. 1 spark plug. NOTE: No. 1 cylinder is cylinder nearest transom. Refer to "Specifications", Section 8. 2. Connect power supply leads on timing light to battery. 3. Start engine and fun at 650 RPM. 4. Aim timing light at timing mark on timing chain cover. 5. Loosen distributor hold-down clamp and turn distributor in either direction required until timing mark on alternator flywheel aligns with mark on housing. (Figure 7) 6. Tighten distributor hold-down clamp and recheck alignment of timing marks. 7. Stop engine and remove timing light. Figure 6. Timing Tab on MerCruiser "60 " Figure 7. Lining-Up Timing Marks - "80 " and "90 " 3A-10 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM THUNDERBOLT IGNITION DESCRIPTION Thunderbolt Ignition is a capacitance discharge breaker-breaker points. The system developes up to 40,000 volts less system. A rotating metal disc replaces conventional to the spark plugs; COMPONENTS The Thunderbolt Ignition System consists of a trigger coil assembly, a switch box assembly and Polar-Gap assembly, which replaces the distributor, on ignition spark plugs, PRECAUTIONS WARNING: When testing or servicing the ignition system, it is of extreme importance that the following precaution is observed, as high voltage is present. DO NOT touch or disconnect any ignition system parts while engine is running, key switch is on, Failure to comply with the following items may result in damage to the ignition system. • Do not reverse battery cable connections at the battery. System is negative (-) ground. • Do not "spark" battery terminals with battery cable connectors to check polarity. THUNDERBOLT CHECKING THUNDERBOLT IGNITION SYSTEM Use process of elimination when checking ignition system, as component parts of system cannot be checked with type of test equipment used on conventional ignition systems. Following parts are required to check system: 1. Trigger assembly 2. Ignition coil assembly 3. Switch box assembly 4. Voltmeter (capable of reading 0-15 volts or more). 5. Short jumper lead and an ohmmeter also are required. CHECKING SPARK PLUGS 1. Remove spark plugs from cylinder heads. «ra Figure 1. Checking Spark Plug Electrode Depth or while battery cables are connected. • Do not disconnect battery cables while engine is running. • Use only test equipment as specified. System cannot be checked with conventional ignition test equipment. • Follow service procedures in the order they are listed in the following information. IGNITION CHECKS 2. Check condition of external insulator. If insulator is cracked, replace plug. 3. Check depth of center electrode as shown in Figure 1. If electrode is burned back more than 1/32" (.8mm), replace plug. 4. Cracks, which may be found around internal insulator (electrode end), will not harm plug operation, and plug may be used. CHECKING for SPARK at SPARK PLUG LEAD 1. Remove any one spark plug lead from spark plug. 2. Remove ground electrode from a standard type spark plug (not Polar-Gap) and connect plug to spark plug lead and ground on engine. (Figure 2) WARNING: High voltage is present. DO NOT hold spark plug in hand when making this check. 3. Turn engine over with starter and watch for spark across plug. If no spark is observed, proceed with following check. NOTE: If one or more cylinders are not firing properly or ccmissing", perform preceding check on all spark plug leads. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3A-1 5 Figure 2. Checking for Spark at Spark Plug Lead CHECKING for SPARK at COIL 1. Remove secondary coil lead from distributor and position end of lead 1/2 " (12.7mm) from ground. (Figure 3) WARNING: High voltage is present. Do not hold lead wire in hand when making this check. 2. Turn engine over with starter and watch for spark across air gap between lead and ground, a. If spark is observed across air gap, cause for no spark in preceding "Checking for Spark at Spark Plug Lead" is in secondary section of distributor. Figure 3. Checking for Spark at Coil Remove distributor cap and check rotor, inside of cap and lead wires. Replace damaged, worn or unserviceable parts. b. If no spark is observed across air gap, proceed with following check , WIRING and CONNECTIONS 1. Connect positive voltmeter lead to terminal on switch 3B-28 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM box which has red wire connected to it. Connect negative voltmeter lead to ground on engine. (Figure 4) 2. With key switch in "OFF " position, observe voltmeter. a. Meter should indicate battery voltage. If meter reading is below battery voltage, or no voltage is indicated, check red wire with ohmmeter for an open circuit or high resistance, (Figure 5) b» If meter indicates battery voltage, proceed with next step. 3. Remove positive voltmeter lead from red terminal on sw-itch box and connect it to terminal which has white wire connected to it. (Figure 4) Figure 4. Voltmeter Connections 4. With key switch in "ON " position, observe voltmeter. a. Meter should indicate battery voltage. If meter reading is below battery voltage, or no voltage is indicated, check white wire, key switch and wiring to key switch with ohmmeter for an open circuit or high resistance. (Figure 5) b. If meter indicates battery voltage, disconnect volt meter, turn key to "OFF " and proceed with following check. 241 Figure 5. Schematic Diagram - Thunderbolt Ignition System DISTRIBUTOR TRIGGER, SWITCH BOX and COIL 1. Remove brown, white and black trigger leads from switch box and connect brown, white and black leads from new trigger to switch box. Connect jumper lead from trigger housing to ground. (Figure 6) 2. Position secondary coil lead as outlined under "Checking for Spark at Coil", Step 1, preceding. 3. Turn key switch to "ON " position and pass a metal object (feeler gauge, nail file, etc) back and forth between trigger inductance coils while, at same time, observing air gap between coil lead and ground. (Figure 6) a. If spark is observed across air gap, original trigger is not functioning and should be replaced as outlined under "Thunderbolt Ignition Service, following. b. If no spark is observed, and a "click"-Like noise emits from ignition coil, coil is shorted and should be replaced. c. If no spark is observed and coil click is not heard, remove test trigger and proceed as follows. 4. Remove wires from switch box and install new switch box. 5. Connect all wires and repeat "Checking for Spark at Figure 6. Checking Trigger Spark Plug Lead", preceding. If no spark is observed install original switch box and replace ignition coil - 3B-29 373R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM THUNDERBOLT IGNITION SERVICE REMOVAL 1. Disconnect positive (,) battery cable from battery. 2. Remove screws, which fasten electrical panel cover to panel, and remove cover. 3. Disconnect brown, white and black trigger leads from Figure 7. Trigger Leads Figure 9. Rotor Aligned with Mark until distributor rotor lines up with mark on adaptor housing (Figure 9) and timing mark, which is located on torsional damper, is in line with top dead center mark located on timing tab. (Figure 10) terminals located on switch box. (Figure 7) Pull leads thru grommet out of electrical panel. 4. Place a mark on distributor adaptor housing adjacent to No. 1 cylinder distributor cap tower. (Figure 8) Figure 10. Timing Marks Aligned - Top Dead Center 7. Remove screw which fastens distributor ground wire to intake manifold. NOTE: No. 1 cylinder now is positioned at top dead Figure 8. Marking Adaptor Housing center of its compression stroke. 5. Loosen distributor cap retaining screws and remove 8. Remove distributor hold-down screw and clamp and distributor cap. lift distributor up out of engine. Remove distributor 6. Rotate crankshaft (in normal direction of rotation) pilot to intake manifold gasket. DISASSEMBLY 1. Place a mark on adaptor housing and distributor pilot NOTE: If rotor is not damaged or worn, and replace- to aid in reassembly. (Figure 11) ment is not required, do not remove it from shaft. 2. Remove rotor from distributor shaft by pulling rotor Loctite fC-92-32609) is used to retain rotor to shaft. straight up. 3A-10 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 470 Adapter Housing 06129 Figure 11 . Adaptor Housing and Pilot Be careful when removing, so that distributor shaft does not bend nor that slotted disc becomes damaged. 3. Remove 4 screws and loekwashers, which fasten adaptor housing to pilot, and remove adaptor housing, 4. Remove 4 screws and loekwashers, which fasten trigger assembly to pilot, and remove trigger. (Figure 12) ' 5. Support gear in a suitable fixture and drive pin out of gear and shaft. Remove gear from shaft. This completes disassembly of distributor. Further disassembly of pilot and shaft assembly is r.ot recommended, as special fixtures are required to reassemble. \lso, individual carts for servicing pilot and shaft assembly are not avai.able. Trigger 06130 Figure 12. Trigger Assembly REASSEMBLY 1. Place gear on shaft, indexing alignment notch and mark on gear as shown in Figure 13. Support gear in a suitable fixture and install new roll pin. 2. Place trigger assembly in position on pilot and fasten trigger to pilot with 4 screws and lockwashers. (Figure 13) 3. Place adaptor housing in position on pilot and fasten adaptor housing to pilot with 4 screws and lockwashers (Figure 11) 4. Apply 4 drops of Loctite "A " (C-92-32609) to inside of rotor and place rotor on shaft. Figure 13. Distributor Gear and Shaft Indexing 06131 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3A -1 5 INSTALLATION L Prior to installing distributor, No. 1 piston must be posi tioned at top dead center of its compression stroke. If piston position has been disturbed since performing Step 6, listed under "Removal", proceed as follows: a. Remove rocker arm cover from left cylinder head. b. Crank engine until No. 1 cylinder intake valve closes. (Figure 14) c. Continue to crank slowly (approx. 1/3-turnf until timing mark on torsional damper lines up with top dead center mark (located on timing tab). (Figure 10) d. Install valve cover. Firing Ordnr Firing Order 1-84-3-8-5-7-2 1-2-7-5-8-3—«-8 Figure 14. Cylinder Location and Firing Order 2. Place new gasket on distributor pilot. 3. Position distributor pilot in cylinder block so that mark on adaptor housing is toward front of engine. 4. Position rotor in line with mark on adaptor housing. 5. Turn rotor, as required, to engage distributor gear and camshaft gear so that rotor points toward front of engine. NOTE: With No. 1 piston at top dead center of its compression stroke (timing marks aligned), rotor must point toward front of engine when distributor is down in position. It may be necessary to turn engine over with starter, while pressing down on distributor pilot, to engage oil pump shaft. 6. Turn distributor pilot, as required, to line up mark on adaptor with rotor. (Figure 15) 7. Install hold-down clamp and screw. 8. Connect ground wire to intake manifold. 9. Feed trigger leads thru grommet in electrical panel and connect leads to switch box, matching color-tocolor. 10 Install distributor cap. 11. Install electrical panel cover. 12. Connect timing light to No. 1 cylinder spark plug and lead wire. 13. Start engine and run at 550-600 RPM. 14. Aim timing light at timing tab. 15. Adjust timing by loosening distributor clamp and rotating distributor, as required, to align timing marks as shown in Figure 16 or 17. Figure 15. Distributor Rotor and Pilot Position 16. Tighten clamp screw and recheck timing marks. 17. Stop engine and remove timing light. 061 33 Figure 16. Timing Marks Aligned - 10° BTDC Left Hand Rotation Engine Figure 17. Timing Marks Aligned - 10° BTDC Right Hand Rotation Engine 3A-10 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM MALLORY DISTRIBUTOR INSPECTION (Distributor in Engine) 1 Remove distributor cap. Clean and inspect for cracks, carbon tracks and burned-out or corroded terminals. Replace cap if necessary. 2 Make sure that all distributor wire terminals are clean and tight. 3 Clean rotor and inspect for damage or deterioration. Replace rotor if necessary-. 4 Inspect breaker assembly for damage, wear, dirty or badly pitted points. Replace if necessary. See "Ignition Contact Points", preceding. 5. Test condenser for series resistance, microfarad capacity and leakage or breakdown, following instructions given by manufacturer of test equipment used. (Refer to Section 8 for specifications.) 6. Check distributor bushings for wear. Attach dial indicator to distributor housing. Position registering point of dial indicator to rest on distributor shaft. Shaft must not have more than .002" side play within bushings when shaft is pushed back-and-forth by hand. 7. Check for sticking centrifugal weights. Grip distributor shaft (or rotor) and twist in direction of rotation, then release. Shaft should snap back to its original position. If it hangs up, returns sluggishly or slowly, distributor must be replaced. LUBRICATION 1. Apply a light film of suitable high-melting-point, non- 2. Add 5 to 7 drops of engine oil in oiler tube for bushing bleeding grease on distributor cam surface. Repeat every lubrication every 50 hours of operation or once every year. 50 hours of operation or once every year. ADJUSTING IGNITION POINTS Refer to "Setting and Alignment of Points", preceding. REMOVAL 1. Remove distributor cap (2 screws) and gasket. Do not remove plug wires from cap. 2. Disconnect coil primary lead from distributor. 3. Crank or turn engine slowly. Align timing marks when rotor is pointing to No. 1 terminal of distributor cap. If same distributor is to be reinstalled in engine, mark position of distributor housing in relation to engine so that distributor may be installed in same position. 4. Remove distributor retaining clamp (one screw). 5. Remove distributor. NOTE: To simplify distributor installation. DO NOT turn crankshaft with distributor removed from engine. DISASSEMBLY IMPORTANT: DO NOT disassemble distributor if not necessary, as ofl seal may be damaged. When checking for worn parts, refer to "Inspection (Distributor in Engine)", preceding. If not previously removed, remove distributor cap (2 screws) and distributor cap gasket. 2, Lift rotor off distributor shaft. 3. Disconnect condenser lead from primary terminal and remove retaining screw, bracket and condenser. 4. Disconnect breaker assembly lead from primary terminal CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Wash all parts in cleaning solvent, except cap, rotor, condenser and breaker assembly. Degreasing compounds may damage insulation of these parts or saturate lubricating felt in breaker assembly. 2. Inspect breaker assembly for damage, wear, dirty or badly pitted points. Replace if necessary. (See "Ignition Contact Points", preceding.) 3. Check shaft fit in bushings in distributor body. If shaft or bushings are worn, replace distributor. 4. Inspect advance weights for wear or burrs and free fit on and remove retaining screw and breaker assembly. 5. Mark breaker plate location and remove plate retaining screws and plate. Be careful not to lose distributor identification plate. 6. Remove oiler stem and wick from distributor housing. (Oiler stem is a press fit into housing.) 7. Drive pin from drive gear and remove gear from shaft. 8. Drive roll pin from distributor shaft collar and remove collar, washer, distributor housing and washer. 9. Remove vent screen from housing. (Distributor Disassembled) their pins. If worn, replace distributor. 5. Inspect cam for wear or roughness. Check cam fit on end of shaft. It should be free, but not loose. If worn, replace distributor. 6. Test condenser for series resistance, microfarad capacity, leakage or breakdown. Follow instructions given by manufacturer of test equipment used. (See "Specifications" Section 8.) 7. Inspect distributor cap, rotor and spark plug wires for corrosion or damage. 373R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3B-33 REASSEMBLY NOTE: Refer to Figure 1 for clarification of parts. 1. Install vent screen in distributor housing vent hole. Crimp inside flange to secure screen in housing. 2. Place washer on distributor shaft assembly and install shaft through housing. Install washer and collar on shaft. Install pin through collar and shaft. Shaft should have .008" to .010" end play. 3. Install drive gear on distributor shaft (shoulder end first) and install a new pin through gear shoulder and shaft. Peen ends of pin to prevent pin from falling out of gear. 4. Insert oil wick into distributor housing oiler hole and press oiler stem into hole. 5. Install breaker plate screws, identification plate, washers and nuts. Do not tighten nuts. Install breaker plate. .Align location marks made duringO disassembly-J and tighten screws. 6. Install breaker assembly. Connect breaker assembly lead to distributor primary terminal. Refer to "Setting and Alignment of Points", preceding. 7. Install condenser with bracket and screw. Connect condenser lead to distributor primary terminal. 8. Set rotor on distributor shaft, aligning slot on inside diameter of rotor with flat side of shaft. 9. Install gasket on distributor cap, aligning notch in cap with locating pin on housing, and install cap. Figure 1. Mallory Distributor, Exploded View INSTALLATION 1. With rotor installed, place distributor into engine with rotor pointed in same direction as original distributor. (No. 1 tower terminal) Center distributor so that initial timing may be adjusted. (Distributor should rotate approximately (45°.) If original distributor is being installed, align location marks (made during removal) on distributor housing and engine. 2. Install retaining clamp and screw. 3. Connect primary wire between coil primary terminal and distributor primary terminal. 4. Place gasket on distributor cap. Align notch in cap with locating pin on housing and install distributor cap. If new distributor cap is being used, transfer high tension wires from old cap to new cap. Make sure that No. I cylinder wire is installed into high tension tower where rotor is pointing. Install remaining wires into cap one-at-a-time in same sequence that wires are removed from original cap. 5. Start engine. Observe oil pressure. No pressure indicates improper seating of distributor shaft with oil pump drive. 6. Use a timing light and set timing as described under "Ignition Timing", preceding. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3B-34 SECTION 3 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM PART C - ALTERNATOR SYSTEM INDEX Poge Page Alternotor Regulator SystemDescri ptionComponentsPrecautionsInspectionTroub leshootin g Alternator RemovalAlternator DisassemblyComponent Checks Rotor Diode Tests Stator. Summary of Alternator ChecksVoltage Regulator (Relay and Tronsistor) Brush and Brush Holder ReplacementSlip Ring ServicingDiode ReplacementHeat Sink ReplacementSlip Ring End Frame BearingDrive End Frame Bearing ReplacementAlternator ReassemblyReplacement Alternator InstallationVoltage Regulator ReplacementVoltage Regulator Extension HarnessWiring Harness ExtensionsIntegral Charging System Description Components Precautions Inspection Troubleshooting 3C-1 3C-1 3C-2 3C-3 3C-3 3C-3 3C-4 3C-5 3C-5 3C-5 3C-5 3C-6 3C-6 3C-7 3C-7 3C-7 3C-7 3C-8 3C-8 3C-9 3C-9 3C-10 3C-11 3C-12 3C-12 3C-13 3C-13 3C-13 3C-14 3C-14 3C-14 Alternator Removal 3C-15 Disassembling Integral Charging System 3C-15 Component Checks 3C-16 Regulator 3C-16 Rotor 3C-16 Diode Trio 3C-16 Rectifier Bricge 3C-17 Stator 3C-17 Summary of Alternator Checks 3C-18 Brush and Brush Holder Replacement 3C-18 Slip Ring Servicing 3C-18 Bearing Replacement 3C-19 Reassembly 3C-19 Replacement Alternator Installation 3C-19 Direct Drive Alternotor System for 60-80-90 3C-20 Description 3C-20 Precautions 3C-20 Inspections 3C-20 Troubleshooting 3C-20 Kemoval 3C-21 Rectifier 3C-21 Stator . . 3C-21 Disassembly 3C-21 Rectifier 3C-21 Stator 3C-21 Component Checks 3C-21 Rectifier 3C-21 Alternator Stator for MerCruiser 80-90 3C-22 Alternator Stator for MerCruiser 60 3C-22 Summary of Alternator Checks 3C-23 Reassembly 3C-23 TOOLS All "]-" (Special) Tools Listed in This Section May Be Purchased from: Kent-Moore, Inc. 28635 Mound Road Warren, Mich. 48089 ALTERNATOR REGULATOR SYSTEM DESCRIPTION MerCruiser diode rectified A.C. alternator is designed and constructed to give long periods of trouble-free serv ice with a minimum amount of maintenance. The rotor is mounted on a' ball bearing at drive end and a roller bearing at slip ring end. Each bearing has a grease supply which eliminates need for periodic lubrication. Brushes and slip rings are totally enclosed in a special brush holder mounted on the end frame. This arrangement provides explosion resistance to meet marine application requirements. 01476 Figure 1. External View TERMINAL AND BRUSH END FRAME ASSEMBLY DIODES Stator windings are assembled on inside of a laminated core which forms part of alternator frame. Six rectifier diodes are mounted in slip ring end frame and are connected to stator windings. They replace separately-mounted rectifier, as used in other types of applications. Diodes change alternator A.C. voltage which appears at "BAT " terminal on alternator. A condenser (mounted in end frame) protects diodes from high voltages. An external view of a typical alternator is shown in Figure 1, and cross-section views are illustrated in Figures 2 and 3. There are 2 types of standard alternators: (1) 42 ampere and (2) 32 ampere. The 42 ampere alternator can be identified by No. 1100619-42A (stamped on drive end frame) and the 32 ampere alternator by No. 1100721-32A (stamped on drive end frame). Major components of both alternators are identical, except for rotors which may be interchanged, although not identical. NOTE: Alternator capacity is 32 amperes with B38022 rotor installed or 42 ampere with B-33331 rotor installed. The 2 alternators are used in 3 different regulator circuits (Figures 4, 5 and 6): (1) Relay regulator with indicator light, (2) relay regulator with ammeter and (3) transistor DRIVE SLIP RING END END FRAME FRAME SEAL BEARING BRUSH SPRINGS BEARING BRUSHES SLIP RINGS FLAME PULLEY ARRESTER CONDENSER DIODES FAN HEAT ROTOR HEAT SINK J STATOR SINK DIODES ' ASSEMBLY Figure 2. Cross-Section, End View Figure 3. Cross-Section, Side View 3B-10 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 373R1 regulator with ammeter. Regulators can be identified as follows: 1. Voltage regulators, which are used with indicator light systems, have No. "506" on regulator base. 2. Voltage regulators, which are used with ammeter systems, have No. "507 " on regulator base. 3. Transistor voltage regulator IB-37707) can be used only on MerCruiser engines which are equipped with ammeter in instrument panel. Figure 4. Schmatic Diagram - Charging System, Relay Voltage Regulator with Indicator Light in Instrument Panel Figure 6. Schematic Diagram - Charging System with Transistor Voltage Regulator and Ammeter Red Red Figure 5. Schematic Diagram - Charging System with Relay Voltage Regulator and Ammeter Red COMPONENTS Alternator system includes battery, alternator, voltage Wiring circuit for a system with ammeter is different regulator, charging indicator light or ammeter and nec-than for a system with an indicator light. essary wiring to connect these components. On early MerCruiser engine production, alternator system has a NOTE: Not all parts of these 2 systems are inter- charging indicator light mounted in instrument panel. changeable. Be sure to follow wiring diagram for type (Figure 4) Later engine production has an ammeter mount- of system being serviced. ed in instrument panel in place of indicator light. (Figure 5) 3E-2 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 272R1 PRECAUTIONS IMPORTANT: Since alternator and regulator are designed for use on one polarity system only, the following precautions must be observed when working on the charging circuit. Failure to observe these precautions will result in serious damage to electrical equipment. 1. When installing battery, always be certain that ground polarity of battery and ground polarity of alternator are the same. 2. When connecting a booster batter)', be sure to connect negative (-) battery terminals together and positive (+) battery terminals together. 3. When connecting a charger to battery, connect charger positive (+) lead to battery positive terminal and charger negative (-) lead to batter)' negative terminal. 4. Never operate alternator on open circuit. Be certain that all connections in circuit are secure. S Do not short across or ground any of terminals on alternator or regulator. 6. Do not attempt to polarize alternator. INSPECTION Although the MerCruiser alternator is constructed to give long periods of trouble-free service, a regular inspection procedure should be followed to obtain maximum life from the alternator. Frequency of inspection is determined largely by type of operating conditions. 1. At regular intervals, inspect terminals for corrosion and loose connections. 2. Check wiring for frayed or worn insulation. 3. Check mounting bolts for tightness. 4. Check belt for alignment, proper tension and wear. Belt tension should be adjusted as outlined in Step 4, Page 3C-19. When tightening belt tension, apply pressure against stator laminations between end frames and not against either end frame. TROUBLESHOOTING Trouble in the charging system will show up as one or more of the following conditions: 1. An undercharged battery as indicated by slow cranking and low specific gravity readings. 2. An overcharged battery as indicated by excessive water usage. UNDERCHARGED BATTERY Slow cranking and low specific gravity readings can be caused by one or more of the following conditions: • Insure that undercharged condition has not been caused by accessories drain for extended periods. • Check drive belt for proper tension. Adjust as required. • Check battery for defects and replace if found defective. • Inspect wiring lor shorts or open circuit as follows: SHORT TEST 1. Disconnect internal wiring harness from electrical components. 2. Using Magneto Analyzer, Scale No. 3, check for continuity between any of the wires in the harness. If continuity exists, harness must be repaired or replaced. RESISTANCE TEST 1. Turn Magneto Analyzer selector switch to position No. 2 (Distributor Resistance) and clip small red and black leads together. 272R1 2. Turn Scale No. 2 meter adjustment knob until meter pointer lines up with set position on left side of "OK " block on Scale No. 2. 3. Unclip small red and black leads. 4. Using wiring diagram as a guide, check each wire for resistance between harness connection and terminal ends. 5- If resistance exists, harness will have to be repaired or replaced. INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING HARNESS Instrument panel wiring harness is checked in same manner as engine wiring harness. Use wiring diagrams as a guide. 1. Check all connections for tightness and corrosion. Clean as required. 2. Connect V-O-A Tester (Volt-Ohm-.Ampere, C-91-52751) 0-80 volt scale from "BAT " terminal on alternator to ground. A zero reading indicates an open between "BAT " terminal on alternator and battery. 3. Check field relay in regulator for proper operation. Replace if defective. 4. If previous steps check satisfactorily, perform alternator system output check as follows: NOTE: Test procedures for 42 ampere and 32 ampere alternator and standard-type and transistor-type voltage regulator are the same, except where indicated. IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to check charging system in any other manner than described, following, as alternator and/or voltage regulator may be damaged. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-3 a. Disable ignition system by removing coil high tension lead from center of distributor cap and ground this lead to engine block. h. Connect V-O-A Tester (0-20 volt scale) across battery terminals. c. Disconnect battery lead from alternator and connect test ammeter (60-0-60) in series with battery terminal on alternator and battery lead. d. Operate starter 10 to 15 seconds to remove battery- surface charge. e. Reinstall coil high tension lead in distributor cap. f. Start engine and accelerate to 3000 RPM. While accelerating, observe maximum reading on test ammeter. 42 Ampere Alternator Reading must be 30 to 45 amps and must diminish to 15 amps or less within a few seconds. 32 Ampere Alternator Reading must be minimum of 25 amps and must diminish to 15 amps or less within a few seconds. WARNING: Instantaneous observation of test ammeter must be made during starting and acceleration. g. When ammeter reading drops to lowest reading, observe V-O-A Tester. Standard-type voltage reg. - 14-15 volts Transistor type volt. reg. - 13.5-14.5 volts h. If ampere output (specified in Step No. f.) is not reached, proceed as follows: 1. Stop engine and remove blue wire from field terminal on alternator. 2. Start engine and accelerate to 3000 RPM. 3. Connect one end of a jumper lead to "BAT " terminal on alternator and momentarily touch other end of jumper lead to field terminal on alternator. Note reading on ammeter. CAUTION: Do not touch terminal on end of blue wire with jumper lead, as voltage regulator will be damaged. 4. Ammeter should show following amps when jumper lead is touching field terminal: ALTERNATOR CAUTION: Disconnect black ground cable from negative (-) battery terminal to prevent accidental shorting when leads are removed from alternator. Failure to comply with this recommendation may result in damage to diodes and/or alternator system. 3E-4 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 42 ampere alternator - 30-to-45 amps 32 ampere alternator - min. of 25 amps If not, remove alternator and test component parts as described in component checks. i. Voltage reading, indicated after current drops to lowest value (Step No. 2), should be in following limits: Standard-type voltage reg. - 14^to-15 volts Transistorcype volt. reg. - 13.5-to-14.5 volts If not, it will be necessary to replace regulator. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ADJUST REGULATOR. After repairing alternator or replacing regulator, complete test procedure once again to assure proper operation. OVERCHARGED BATTERY 1. Check battery. IMPORTANT: Remember that an overheated battery will be overcharged even though no charging circuit defects are present. 2. If an obvious overcharge condition exists as indicated by excessive battery water usage and, if battery is not overheated and not defective, remove regulator for repair. INDICATOR L GHT OPERATION 1. If light does not illuminate when key is turned to "ON" before engine is started, check for following defects: a. Burned out bulb b. Socket defective c. Wiring defective d. Regulator defective 2. If light stays on after engine starts, check for following defects: a. Socket defects b. Wiring defects c. Diode failure d. Regulator defective e. Drive belt loose NOISY ALTERNATOR Noise from alternator may be caused by: 1. Wom or dirty bearings 2. Loose mounting bolts 3. Loose drive pulley 4. Defective diodes 5. Defective stator REMOVAL 1. Disconnect lead wires from terminals on back of alternator. 2. Remove alternator mounting brace bolt and remove drive belt from pulley. 3. Remove bolt and nut, which fasten alternator to support brackets, and remove alternator. Do not lose spacer on bolt. 272R1 ALTERNATOR DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove terminal nuts, washers and cover from top of NOTE: Do not use black friction tape. Use only presbrush holder. sure sensitive tape that will not contaminate shaft 2. Remove studs and brush and spring assemblies. surface. 3. Remove 3 screws, which fasten brush holder to end frame, and remove brush holder. 6. Remove drive end from rotor by placing rotor in vise 4. Remove 4 thru-bolts and separate drive end frame and and tighten vise only enough to permit removal of rotor assembly from stator assembly by prying apart shaft nut. with a screwdriver at slot located in stator frame. A scribe mark will help locate parts in same position during reassembly. Fit between stator and frame is not CAUTION: Over-tightening vise will cause rotor tight and they can be separated easily. distortion. NOTE: Separate between stator frame and drive end frame. 7. Remove shaft nut, washer, pulley, fan and collar and 5. Place a piece of tape over slip ring end frame on both separate drive end frame from rotor shaft. sides of bearing to prevent entry of dirt. Place piece of tape over bearing surface on shaft to prevent damage to shaft. COMPONENT CHECKS ROTOR rotor or 4.5 ohms for 32 ampere rotor, rotor windings are shorted. ROTOR TEST FOR GROUND NOTE: To adjust Magneto Analyzer meter for this 1. With Magneto Analyzer selector switch set on Scale test, do not clip small red and black leads together. No. 3 (Continuity), or using V-O-A Tester on scale Turn No. 2 meter scale adjusting knob until meter Rxl , place one lead on either slip ring and other needle lines up with red line on right side of Scale lead on rotor shaft or poles. (Figure 7) No. 2 on meter. 2. If meter hand on Analyzer or V-O-A moves to right, rotor is grounded. DIODE TESTS ROTOR TEST FOR OPEN CIRCUIT Each dioce may be checked electrically for a shorted or open condition. 1. With Magneto Analyzer selector switch set on Scale No. 3 (Continuity), using V-O-A tester scale 1. Set Analyzer selector switch on Scale No. 3 (Continuor on Rxl , place one lead on each slip ring. (Figure 7) ity), or V-O-A Tester set on R x 1 scale. 2. If meter hand on Analyzer or V-O-A does not move 2. With stator leads disconnected, check a diode in heat to right, rotor is open. sink by connecting one test lead to heat sink and other test lead to diode lead. (Figure 8) Note reading on meter Scale No. 3 (Figure 91 or ohms scale on V-O-A Tester. GROUNDS) (CHECK FOR (CHECK FOR 01480 SHORTS AND OPENS) Figure 7. Testing Rotor ROTOR TEST FOR SHORT CIRCUIT 1. With Magneto Analyzer selector switch set on Scale No. 2 (Resistance), or V-O-A Tester set on R x 1 DIODES scale, place one lead on each slip ring. (Figure 7) LEAD ATTACHING Nt'TS 2. If reading on meter is below 6 ohms for 42 ampere Figure 8. Stator Lead Attaching Nuts 272R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-5 3. Reverse test leads and note reading on meter. 4. If both readings are zero or very high, diode is defective. A good diode will give one low reading and one high reading. 01483 Figure 9. Testing Diodes 5. Check other 2 diodes in heat sink in same manner. 6. To check diodes mounted in end frame, follow Steps l-thru-6, preceding, with exception that test leads should be connected to end frame and diode lead. (Figure 9) STATOR STATOR TEST FOR GROUND 1. Remove all 3 stator lead attaching nuts (Figure 8) and separate stator assembly from end frame. Fit between stator frame and end frame is not tight and can be separated easily. 2. With Magneto Analyzer selector switch on Scale No. 3 (continuity), or using V-O-A Tester on Scale Rxl , connect one test lead to any one of the 3 stator leads. 3. Place other tester lead on stator frame. (Figure 10) 4. If meter hand on .Analyzer or V-O-A Tester moves to right, windings are grounded. STATOR TEST FOR OPEN CIRCUIT 1. Stator must be removed from end frame as described in "Stator Test for Ground", above, Step No. 1. 2. With Magneto Analyzer selector switch on Scale No. 3 (Continuity), or using V-O-A Tester on scale Rxl , connect tester leads successively between each pair of stator leads. (Figure 10) (CHECK tOt OWNS! [CHECK FO* GROUNDS; 01 48 2 Figure 10. Testing Stator 3. If meter hand on Analyzer or V-O-A Tester does not move to right, windings are open. STATOR TEST FOR SHORT CIRCUIT Because of low resistance of windings, a short circuit in stator windings is difficult to locate without laboratory test equipment. However, if all other following electrical checks are normal, and alternator fails to supply rated output, shorted stator windings are indicated. Also, a ground may have existed between stator windings and either end frame before disassembly. Visually inspect very carefully for this possibility. SUMMARY OF ALTERNATOR CHECKS Component Connection Reading Result Rotor Analyzer from Slip Ring to Shaft Analyzer across Slip Rings Low High Grounded Open Stator (Disconnected from Diodes) Analyzer from Lead to Frame Analyzer across Each Pair of Leads Low High Grounded Open Diode (Disconns cted from Stator) Analyzer across Diode, Then Reverse Connections BothBoth Recdings Very Low Readings Very High Shorted Open 3B-6 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 373R1 VOLTAGE REGULATOR (RELAY AND TRANSISTOR) Because voltage regulator can be obtained at a relatively of regulator is properly grounded and connector strip low cost, replace if it does not conform to test speci- is not loose when making check. fications of alternator charging system check. After replacing regulator, perform alternator charging NOTE: Before replacing regulator, be sure that base system check to assure proper system operation. BRUSH and BRUSH HOLDER REPLACEMENT 1. If brushes are worn over 50 percent, replace. When NOTE: Parts for early brush holder assemblies are no replacing brushes, slip rings also should be cleaned, longer available. If replacement parts are required, as explained under "Slip Ring Servicing". install new alternator brush holder assembly (B-34754) 2. Place brush assemblies in brush holders and install on all engines with Serial No. 1963419 and below. terminal studs. 3. Position cover on brush holder and place washers and nuts (which hold cover in place) on terminal studs. NOTE: Pin (inserted thru brush holder) retains brushes in holder. Do not withdraw pin until after holder has been assembled onto end frame. 4. Install brush holcer assembly, using gasket and 3 pan head screws. ("A " in Figure 11) IMPORTANT: Always use correct brush holder screws and washers. If screws are too long, they will bottom against heat sink and ground out alternator. 5. Pull brush retaining pin out of brush holder. 6. Fasten ground strap to left brush holder stud with flat washer, wave washer and nut. 7. Fasten ground strap to alternator end frame with flat washer, lockwasher and stud. 8. Coat all metal surfaces of both terminals on brush holder ground strap and ground stud with Liquid Neoprene (C-92-25711). 9. Seal brush retaining pin hole in brush holder with a very small amount of Liquid Neoprene. Do not use too much, as any excess (which runs inside brush holder) will cause brushes to stick. SLIP RING SERVICING 1. If slip rings are dirty, clean and finish with 400 grain CAUTION: Rotate rotor so that slip rings will or finer polishing cloth. Spin rotor and hold polishing be cleaned evenly. Cleaning slip rings by hand cloth against slip rings until clean. without spinning rotor may result in flat spots on 2. Slip rings, which are rough or out-of-round, should be slip rings, thus causing brush noise. Support trued in a lathe to .002" maximum indicator reading. journal on a steady rest with rollers. Do not use Remove only enough material to make rings smooth "V " blocks, as they may damage journal. and round. 3. Finish with 400 grain or finer polishing cloth and blow away any dust. DIODE REPLACEMENT END FRAME (NEGATIVE DIODES) 1. Support end frame with Support Tool J-9717-2 and CAUTION: Do not strike diode, as shock may press out diode with Removal Tool J-9717-1. damage other diodes. 2. Support outside of end frame around diode hole on a Figure 11. Brush Holder Assembly 272R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-7 flat, smooth surface and press diode into position with Tool J-9600-2. Make sure that diode is square with end frame and started straight. CAUTION: Avoid bending or moving diode stem, as excessive movement can cause internal damage and result in diode failure. HEAT SINK (POSITIVE DIODES) NOTE: It is not necessary to remove heat sink to remove or install positive (+) diodes. 1. Support heat sink with Support Tool J-9717-2 and press out diode with Removal Tool J-9717-1. HEAT SINK 1. Remove heat sink from end frame by removing "BAT " and "GRND" terminal bolts. Note sequence of parts for reassembly. 2. Replace diodes, if necessary, as outlined in "Diode CAUTION: Do not strike diode, as shock may damage other diodes. 2. Support heat sink with Support Tool J-9717-2 and press diode into position with Tool J-9600-2. Be certain that diode is square with heat sink and started straight. CAUTION: Avoid bending or moving diode stem. Excessive movement can cause internal damage and result in diode failure. REPLACEMENT Replacement", preceding, 3. Assemble heat sink to end frame, carefully following proper sequence of parts on "BAT" and "GRND terminal bolts. (Figure 12) Figure 12. SLIP RING END NOTE: If grease supply in end frame bearing is exhausted, bearing should be replaced. Do not re- lubricate bearing. 1. Support end frame on hollow cylinder. 2. Press bearing toward inside of frame with mandrel that will just fit inside end frame housing. Carefully note assembly of seals so that they can be reassembled in same manner. 3. Support inside of frame with hollow cylinder to prevent breakage of end frame. CAUTION: Assemble seals flush with bearing, but avoid excessive pressure, since this may distort and damage seals. It is recommended that new seals be used whenever bearing is replaced. 3E-8 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Part Sequence FRAME BEARING 4. Place bearing on frame and press into position with mandrel from outside toward inside of frame until bearing is located as shown in Figure 13. 5. Saturate felt seal with SAE 20 oil, then reassemble seals into end frame. 01485 Figure 13. Bearing Pressed into Position 272R1 DRIVE END FRAME BEARING REPLACEMENT 1. Remove 3 bearing retainer plate screws. reused, and it should be filled one-quarter full with 2. Support frame on hollow cylinder and press bearing Deico-Remy Lubricant No. 1960373 before reassembly. toward inside of frame until it is removed. Remove 4. Place new grease slinger in frame and press bearing in grease slinger. frame with tube or collar which will just fit over outer 3. If bearing is in satisfactory condition, it may be race. 5. If felt seal in retainer plate is hardened or worn, CAUTION: Do not overfill, as this may cause install new retainer plate assembly. bearing to overheat. ALTERNATOR REASSEMBLY 1. Slide wide collar on pulley end of rotor shaft. 5. Place stator assembly in end frame and connect leads 2. Place rotor shaft thru drive end frame bearing and to attaching studs with nuts. seals. 6. Place end frame assemblies together, lining up scribe 3. Place narrow collar, fan, pulley, wave washer and nut marks made on frames before disassembly. on rotor shaft. 7. Install 4 thru bolts and tighten evenly. 4. Place rotor in vise and tighten only enough to permit 8. Wipe slip rings thoroughly with a soft dry cloth to tightening shaft nut to 50-60 ft. lbs. (6.9-8.3 mkg). remove lubricant accumulated when rings were inserted thru bearings during assembly. CAUTION: Over-tightening vise will cause distortion of rotor. 272R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-9 REPLACEMENT ALTERNATOR INSTALLATION NOTE: When ins tailing replacement alternator (B-32701), make sure that unit is mounted so that slip ring end frame and brush holder assembly are located in same position as on replaced unit. This may require rotating slip ring end frame on new unit. To do this, remove thru bolts and rotate slip ring end frame either 90° or 180°, then replace thru bolls. CAUTION: Do not separate end frames, as brushes will drop off slip rings. If this happens, remove brush holder, clean slip ring and reinstall brush holder as explained under "Slip Ring Servicing" and "Brush Replacement", following. 1. Install bolt, spacer and nut which fasten alternator to support brackets. 2. Swing alternator toward engine and place drive belt on pulley. 488 Figure 14. Alternator Wiring Connections - Indicator Light in System 3. Install mounting brace bolt and washer, but do not tighten belt. 4. Adjust belt tension by depressing belt midway between water pump pulley and alternator pulley with strand tension gauge. 5. Adjust alternator on its mounting bracket until belt tension is sufficient to read 45 lbs., and tighten brace bolt securely. NOTE: In emergency, tension may be adjusted by depressing belt midway between water pump pulley and alternator pulley with thumb. Belt should not depress more than Vi" (12.7mm). 6. Connect ends of engine wiring harness to alternator. Refer to Figure 14 if system has indicator light, or to Figure 15 if system has ammeter. 7. Run engine and carrv out "Alternator Charging System Check". Fi-gure 15. Alternator Wiring Connections - Ammeter in Sy stem 3E-10 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 272R1 VOLTAGE REGULATOR REPLACEMENT RELAY TYPE 1. Lift latch, which secures wiring harness connector to regulator, and pull connector away from regulator. 2. Remove screws which fasten regulator to mounting bracket. NOTE: Voltage regulator, which is used with indicator light systems, has number "506" on regulator base. Regulator, which is used with ammeter systems, has number "507" on regulator base. (Refer to Figure 16 or 17 for wire connections.) Ml. 01491 Figure 16. Voltage Regulator Wire Connections - Indicator in System 01492 Figure 17. Voltage Regulator Wire Connections - Ammeter in System NOTE: Voltage regulator must be mounted on vibration dampening mounting bracket. Bracket was not supplied with early MerCruiser engines. When installing voltage regulators for these engines, use B-33614A1 voltage regulator mount assembly. 3. Plug connector on wiring harness into voltage regulator while matching terminals on both parts. 4. Position regulator and vibration dampening mounting bracket on transom so that harness leads to regulator are not drawn tight. 373R1 Mark location of regulator mounting bracket on transom. Remove 3 screws, which fasten regulator to mounting bracket, and remove regulator. Remove 2 wood screws, which pass thru rubber grom mets, and re-insert with points in opposite direction. Be sure that washers and bushings are in same posi tions as before turning screws around. 8. Fasten mounting bracket to transom with 2 wood screws. (Figure 18) Be sure 2 mounting screws are in vertical position. •SjJIr 01382 Figure 18. Vibration Dampening Mounting Bracket Posi tion on Transom 9. Place terminal of black harness lead on one regulator attaching screw and fasten regulator to mounting bracket with 3 screws. (Figure 19) H i 01383 Figure 19. Regulator Position on Mounting Bracket 10. Secure engine harness to transom with clip so that wire between clip and regulator is not drawn tight. Regulator and mounting bracket must move freely. TRANSISTOR TYPE Voltage regulator B-37707 can be used only on Mer- Cruiser Marine Engines equipped with ammeter in instrument panel. To adapt engine harness tor use with transistor voltage regulator, refer to instructions which accompany the regulator kit. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3B-11 VOLTAGE REGULATOR EXTENSION HARNESS Harness extension assembly (B-37460A1) is a replacement, if original voltage regulator connector or connector wires are damaged. Harness extension assembly will fit either voltage regulator B-32702 or B-34141 and includes all terminals, screws and nuts necessary for attachment NOTE: Tope tfie Groy Wire of Exfensior HarnessAgainst Harness for Neat Appearance. Back to engine wiring harness. (Figure 20) Refer to instructions which accompany harness extension assembly (B-37460A1). 0488 2 Figure 20. Harness Extension Assembly with Ammeter WIRING HARNESS EXTENSIONS Wiring harness extension assemblies are available in wiring harness on longer boats. Harness extension as10 ft. (3.05m) and 20 ft. (6.1m) lengths. Extension is sembly includes a terminal block and necessary fasteners. connected between instrument panel harness and engine 3E-12 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 272R1 INTEGRAL CHARGING SYSTEM DESCRIPTION Integral charging system (Figures 1 and 2) features an explosion-resistant screen at each end frame and a solid state regulator that is mounted inside the slip ring end frame. .All regulator components are enclosed, and this unit (along with the brush holder assembly) is attached to the slip ring end frame. Regulator voltage setting never needs adjusting, and no provision for adjustment is provided. Rotor bearings contain a supply of lubricant sufficiently adequate to eliminate need for periodic lubrication. Two brushes carry current thru 2 slip rings to field coil mounted on rotor and, under normal conditions, will provide long Figure 1. External View 04881 Figure 2. Cross-Section, Side View periods of attention-free service. Stator windings are assembled on inside of a laminated core that forms part of the frame. A rectifier bridge (connected to stator windings) contains 6 diodes and electrically changes stator A.C. voltages to D.C. voltage which appears at output terminal. Field current is supplied thru a diode trio which also is connected to stator windings. A condenser (mounted in end frame) protects rectifier bridge and diode trio from hig^i voltages and suppresses radio noise. COMPONENTS Figure 3. Schematic Diagram Internal Charging System Figure 4. Schematic Diagram Integral Charging System Harness Length 20 Ft. or Less Harness Length More Than 20 Ft. 373R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 3B- 13 PRECAUTIONS IMPORTANT: Since alternator is designed for only 2. When connecting a booster battery, make certain to one polarity system, following precautions must be connect negative (-) battery terminals together and observed when working on charging circuit. Failure positive (+) battery terminals together. to observe these precautions will result in serious 3. When connecting a charger to battery, connect charger damage to electrical equipment. positive lead to battery positive terminal and charger negative lead to battery negative terminal. 1. When installing battery, always be certain that ground 4. Do not short across or ground any terminalson alternator polarity of battery and ground polarity of alternator or regulator. are same. 5. Do not attempt to polarize alternator, unless instructed. INSPECTION Follow regular inspection procedure to obtain maximum 4. Check belt for alignment, proper tension and wear. life from alternator. Belt tension should be adjusted as outlined in Step 4, Frequency of inspection is determined largely by type of Page 3C-19. When tightening belt tension, apply presspre operating conditions. against stator laminations between end frames and not 1. At regular intervals, inspect terminals for corrosion against either end frame. and loose connections. 5. At periodic intervals, remove external screen and tap 2. Check wiring for frayed or worn insulation. lightly or blow with compressed air to prevent screen 3. Check mounting bolts for tightness. from becoming clogged. Be sure to replace all screws during reassembly. TROUBLESHOOTING Trouble in charging system will show up as one of following conditions: 1. Undercharged battery, as indicated by slow cranking and low specific gravity readings. 2. Overcharged battery, as indicated by excessive water usage. UNDERCHARGED BATTERY Short Test 1. Disconnect internal wiring harness from electrical components. 2. Using Magneto Analyzer, Scale No. 3, check for continuity between any of wires in harness. If continuity exists, harness must be repaired orreplaced. Resistance Test 1. Turn selector switch of Magneto Analyzer to position No. 2 (Distributor Resistance) and clip small red and black leads together. 2. Turn meter adjustment knob for Scale No. 2 until meter pointer lines up with set position on left side of "OK " block on Scale No. 2. 3. Unclip small red and black leads. 4. Using wiring diagram as a guide, check each wire for resistance between harness connection and terminal ends. 5. If resistance exists, harness must be repaired or replaced. Instrument Panel Wiring Harness Instrument panel wiring harness is checked same as engine wiring harness. Use wiring diagrams as a guide. 1. Connect a voltmeter from "BAT " terminal to ground. Zero reading indicates an open between voltmeter connection and battery. 2. If previous steps check satisfactorily, check integral charging system as follows: a. Disconnect battery ground cable. b. Connect ammeter in circuit at "BAT " terminal of integral charging system. c. Connect a carbon pile across battery. (Figure 5) d. Reconnect battery ground cable and turn on accessories. Figure 5. Alternator Output Test 3C-14 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM e. Operate engine at moderate speed as required within 10 percent of rated output, replace regulator. (usually 4000 generator RPM or more) and adjust carbon pile to obtain maximum current output. If output is not within 10 percent of rated output, check field winding, diode trie, rectifier bridge and stator. IMPORTANT: Initial voltage buildup is by residual 3. If obvious overcharge condition exists (as evidenced magnetism in rotor. Increase speed, as required, to by excessive battery water usage) and, if battery is obtain maximum current output. not overheated and not defective, remove integral f. If ampere output is within 10 percent of rated output charging system for repair. (as stamped on generator frame) integral charging system is not defective. Recheck previous steps. OVERCHARGED BATTERY g. If ampere output is not within 10 percent of rated 1. Check battery. output (as stamped on integral charging system frame) record maximum amperes that can be ob-IMPORTANT: Remember that an overheated battery tained, then remove explosion-resistant screen from will be overcharged although no charging circuit de- slip ring end. fects present. are h. Ground field winding by inserting screwdriver into test hole in end frame. NOISY ALTERNATOR Noise from alternator may be caused by: CAUTION: Tab is within %" (19mm) of casting surface. Do not force screwdriver deeper than 1. Worn or dirty bearings 1" (25mm) into end frame. 2. Loose mounting bolts 3. Loose drive pulley Operate generator at moderate speed and adjust carbon 4. Defective diode trio pile, as required, to obtain maximum output. If output is 5. Defective stator ALTERNATOR REMOVAL 1. Disconnect lead wires from terminals on back of al- CAUTION: Disconnect black ground cable from ternator. negative (-) battery terminal to prevent accidental 2. Remove alternator mounting brace bolt and remove shorting when leads are removed from alternator. drive belt from pulley. Failure to comply with this recommendation may 3. Remove bolt and nut,which fasten alternator to support result in damage to diodes and/or alternator sysbrackets, and remove alternator. Do not lose spacer tem. on bolt. DISASSEMBLING INTEGRAL CHARGING SYSTEM 1. Remove 4 thru bolts from drive end, then remove cover. 2. Clamp 5/16" Allen wrench in vise and insert Allen wrench into shaft end as shown in Figure 6. Using 15/16" box wrench, loosen end nut and remove nut, washer, pulley, fan, collar drive end frame and collar from rotor shaft. 3. Pull rotor assembly from slip ring end frame, being careful not to lose brush springs. 4. After disassembly, place a piece of tape over slip Figure 7. Brush Lead Clip Checks ring er.d frame bearing (to preven: entry of dirt and other foreign material) and also over shaft on slip ring end. If re-using brushes, clean with a soft, dry cloth. CAUTION: Use pressure-sensitive tape, not friction tape, which leaves a gummy deposit on shaft. 373R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3B-15 5. Before reassembly, magnetize rotor field winding by connecting positive (+) post of a 12-volt battery to edge of outer slip ring and negative (-) post to inside slip ring nearest to field winding. 6. Pull stator assembly from slip ring frame end. 7. Remove 3 attaching nuts (Figure 7) and phiHips head screw from slip ring frame end and remove diode trio. 8. Remove remaining 2 phillips head screws from brush holder assembly and remove brush holder and voltage regulator. IMPORTANT: Two insulators are located under 2 brush clip screws. These screws have special insu lating sleeves over the screw body. Third mounting screw may or may not have an insulating sleeve. If not, this screw must be interchanged with either of the other 2 screws, as a ground may result, causing no output or uncontrolled generator output. Regulators may vary in appearance but are completely interchangeable in these generators. 9- Remove 2 screws, and disconnect capacitor leads and remove capacitors. 10. To remove rectifier bridge, remove attaching screw and "BAT " terminal screw. NOTE: Rectifier bridges may vary in appearance but are completely interchangeable in these generators. COMPONENT CHECKS REGULATOR 1. Set Analyzer selector switch on Scale No. 3 (Continuity) or use V-O-A Tester (C-91-52751) on Rxl scale. 2. Connect one test lead from brush lead clip and other lead to end frame, as shown in Step 1. (Figure 7)Note reading on meter Scale No. 3 or V-O-A. 3. Reverse test leads and note reading on meter. 4. If both readings are zero, either brush lead clip is grounded or regulator is defective. 5. A grounded brush lead clip may result from omission of insulating washer (Figure 7), ommission of insulating sleeve over screw or damaged insulating sleeve. Remove screw to inspect sleeve. If satisfactory, replace regulator as described under "Disassembly". 6. Repeat Steps l-thru-5, above, except to connect Analyzer or V-O-A as shown in Step 2. (Figure 7) NOTE: Since regulator is completely enclosed. nc practical method to check this unit with a test instrument exists. If none of previous checks show any defects, and maximum generator output (as previously checked) was 5 amperes or less. replace regulator. ROTOR ROTOR TEST for GROUND 1. With Magneto Analyzer selector switch set on Scale 0-'.'METER ..• •- J. an: O?:NS 04879 Figure 8. Checking Rotor for Shorts or Opens 3C-16 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM No. 3 (Continuity), or using V-O-A Tester on Rxl scale, place one lead on either slip ring and other lead on rotor shaft or poles. (Figure 8) '2. If meter hand on Analyzer or V-O-A Tester moves to right, rotor is grounded. ROTOR TEST for SHORT CIRCUIT 1. With Magneto Analyzer selector switch set on Scale No. 2 (Resistance) or the V-O-A Tester on Rxl scale, place one lead on each slip ring. (Figure 8) 2. If reading on meter is below 2.6 ohms, rotor windings are shorted. NOTE: To adjust Magneto Analyzer for this test, do not clip small red and black leads together. Turn No. 2 meter scale adjusting knob until meter needle lines up with red line on right side of Scale No. 2. 04877 Figure 9. Diode Trio Checks DIODE TRIO 1 . Remove diode trio from end frame assembly bv removing 3 nuts and attaching screw. Check each diode electrically for shorted or open condition. 2. Set Analyzer selector switch on Scale No. 3 (Continuity) or V-O-A Tester on Rxl scale. 3. Connect one test lead to single connector and one test lead to one of 3 connectors. (Figure 9) Note reading on scale. 370 4. Reverse test leads and note reading on meter. 5. If both readings are zero, or both readings are very high, diode is defective. A good diode will give one low reading and one high reading. 6. Repeat Steps 3-thru-5 between single connector and each of the other 2 connectors. 7. Replace diode trio, if defective. RECTIFIER BRIDGE NOTE: Do not perform this check for an overcharged battery condition. 04860 ligure 10. Rectifier Bridge Checks and Removal 1. Set Analyzer selector switch on Scale No. 3 (Continuity) or V-O-A Tester on Scale Rxl. 2. Connect one test lead to grounded heat sink and one test lead to one of the 3 terminals. (Figure 10) Note reading on scale. 3. Reverse test leads and note reading on meter. 4. If both readings are zero, or both readings are very high, rectifier bridge is defective. A good rectifier will give one low reading and one high reading. 5. Repeat Steps 2-thru-4 between grounded heat sink and other 2 terminals and between insulated heat sink and each of the 3 terminals. NOTE: This makes a total of 6 checks, with 2 readings taken for each check. 6. Replace rectifier bridge, if defective. 04880 Figure 11. Rectifier Bridge Checks IMPORTANT: If rectifier bridge is constructed as shown in Figure 11, check in same manner, except, with the test lead, press down very firmly onto flat metal connector, not onto threaded stud. STATOR NOTE: Do not perform this check for an overcharged battery condition. STATOR TEST for GROUND 1. Remove all 3 stator lead attaching nuts and separate stator assembly from end frame. Fit between stator frame and end frame is not tight and can be separated easily. 2. With Magneto Analyzer Selector switch on Scale No. 3 (Continuity) or, using V-O-A Testor on Scale Rxl, connect one test lead to any one of the 3 stator leads. 3. Place other lead from tester on stator frame. (Figure 12) 4. If meter hand on Analyzer or V-O-A moves to right, windings are grounded. Figure 12. Checking Stator STATOR TEST for OPEN CIRCUIT 1. Stator must be removed from end frame as described in "Disassembly" Step No. 4. 2. With Magneto Analyzer selector switch on Scale No. 3 (Continuity), or, using V-O-A Tester on Scale Rxl, connect tester leads successively between each pair of stator leads. (Figure 12) 3. If meter hand on Analyzer or V-O-A does not move to right, windings are open. STATOR TEST for SHORT CIRCUIT Because of low resistance of windings,a short circuit in stator windings is difficult to locate without laboratory- test equipment. However, if all other electrical checks (following) are normal, and alternator fails to supply rated output, stator windings are shorted. Another possibility is a ground which exists between stator windings and either end frame before disassembly. Visually inspect very carefully for this possibility. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3C-17 SUMMARY OF ALTERNATOR CHECKS COMPONENT CONNECTION READING RESULT Rotor 1. Analyzer from Slip Ring to Shaft 2. Analyzer Across Slip Rings Low High Grounded Open Stator (Di sconnected from Diodes) 1. Analyzer from Lead to Frame 2. Analyzer Across Each Pair of Leads Low High Grounded Open Diode Trio Analyzer Across Diode, Then Reverse Connections Both Readings Very Low Both Readings Very High Shorted Open Rectifier Bridge (Di sconnected from Stator) Analyzer Across Diode, Then Reverse Connections Both Readings Very Low Both Readings Very High Shorted Open BRUSH and BRUSH HOLDER REPLACEMENT 1. If brushes are worn over 50 percent, they should be 3. Unsolder brush lead from metal tab and solder new replaced. R'hen brushes are replaced, slip rings also brush leads to tab. should be cleaned as explained under "Slip Ring NOTE: Pin (inserted thru end frame and brush holder) Servicing", following. retains brushes in holder. 2. Remove 3 screws and remove brush holder. 4. Place brush assemblies in brush holders and install pin. SLIP RING SERVICING 1. If slip rings are dirty, they may be cleaned and finish-and hold polishing cloth against slip rings until they ed with 400 grain or finer polishing cloth. Spin rotor are cleaned. CAUTION: Spin rotor so that slip rings will be 2. Rough or out-of-round slip rings should be trued in a cleaned evenly. To neglect spinning rotor may lathe to .002" (.051mm) maximum indicator reading. result in flat spots on slip rings, with subsequent Remove only enough material to make rings smooth brush noise. Support journal on a steady rest with and round. rollers. Do not use "V " blocks, as they may damage journal. 3. Finish with 400 grain or finer polishing cloth and blow away any dust. 3E-18 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 272R1 BEARING REPLACEMENT DRIVE END FRAME BEARING 1. Remove 3 bearing retainer plate screws. 2. Support frame on hollow cylinder and press bearing toward inside of frame until it is removed. Remove grease slinger. 3. Bearing may be re-used, if in satisfactory condition. Fill one-quarter full with Ball Bearing Lubricant (C92- 36204-1) before reassembly. CAUTION: Do not overfill, as this may cause bearing to overheat. 4. Place new grease slinger in frame and press bearing in frame with tube or collar which just fits over outer race. 5. Fill cavity between retainer plate and bearing with Ball Bearing Lubricant. 6. If felt seal ir. retainer plate is hardened or worn, install new retainer plate assembly. RING END FRAME BEARING NOTE: If grease supply in end frame bearing is exhausted, replace bearing. DO NOT re-lubricate bearing. 1. Support inside of end frame on hollow cylinder to prevent breakage of end frame. 2. Press bearing toward inside of frame with mandrel which just fits inside end frame housing. Carefully note assembly of seals for reassembly in same manner. 3. Place bearing on frame and press into position with mandrel (from outside toward inside of frame) until bearing is flush with outside of end frame. 4. Support inside of frame with a hollow cylinder to prevent breakage of end frame. CAUTION: Use extreme care to avoid misalign ment or placing undue stress on bearing. 5. Replace seal by pressing seal in with lip of seal toward inside of end frame. 6. Lightly coat seal lip with oil to facilitate assembly of shaft into bearing. REASSEMBLY INSTALLING SLIP RING END FRAME and BRUSH ASSEMBLY NOTE: Before reassembly magnetize rotor field winding by connecting positive (+) post of a 12-volt battery to edge of outer slip ring and negative (-) post to inside slip ring nearest to field winding. 1. When assembling pulley, secure rotor in a vise only tight enough to permit torquing shaft nut to 40-60 ft. lbs. (5.5-8.3mkg). If excessive pressure is applied against rotor, assembly may become distorted. 2. To install slip ring end frame assembly to rotor and drive end frame assembly, remove tape over bearing and shaft and make sure that shaft is perfectly clean after removing tape. 3. Insert a pin through holes to hold up brushes. 4. Carefully install shaft into slip ring end frame assembly to avoid damage to seal. 5. After tightening thru bolts, remove brush retaining pin to allow brushes to fall down onto slip rings. REPLACEMENT ALTERNATOR INSTALLATION NOTE: When installing replacement alternator, be sure to mount unit so that slip ring end frame and brush assembly is located in same position as on replaced unit. This may require that end frame be rotated on new unit by loosening thru bolts and rotating end frame either 90° or 180°. Replace thru bolts. CAUTION: Avoid separating alternator further than necessary, so that brushes will not drop off slip ring. If this happens, remove brush holder, clean slip ring and reinstall brush holder as explained under "Slip Ring Servicing" and "Brush Replacement". 1. Install bolt, spacer and nut which fasten alternator to support brackets. 2. Swing alternator toward engine and place drive belt on pulley. 3. Install mounting brace bolt and washer, but do not tighten belt. 4. Adjust belt tension by depressing belt midway between water pump pulley and alternator pulley with strand tension gauge. 5. Adjust alternator on its mounting bracket until belt tension is sufficient to read 45 lbs. Tighten brace bolt securely. NOTE: In emergency, tension may be adjusted by depressing belt with thumb midway between water pump pulley and alternator pulley. Belt should not depress more than Vt" (12.7mm). ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-19 272R1 DIRECT DRIVE ALTERNATOR SYSTEM for 60, 80 and 90 DESCRIPTION The direct drive alternator does not have brushes, pulleys, belts or extra bearings, hence, it offers a!m:st complete freedom from service repairs and/or maintenance. Stator windings are assembled on a laminated core which is secured to the timing chain cover. Permanent magnets (located in the flywheel) rotate around the stationary stator to produce alternating current. A separately-mounted diode rectifier changes alternators A.C. current to D.C. COMPONENTS Alternator system includes battery, alternator, rectifier and necessary wiring to connect these components. PRECAUTIONS Alternator and rectifier are designed only for negative 3. When connecting a charger to battery, connect plus polarity systems. Following precautions must be observed. and minus charger leads to the plus (+) and minus (-) Failure to observe these precautions will result in serious battery terminals. Rectifier diodes may burn out if damage to alternator and/or rectifier. leads are reversed. 4. Never operate alternator on open circuit. Be certain 1. When installing a battery, always be certain that negathat all connections in circuit are secure. tive (-) terminal of battery is grounded. 5. Do not short across or ground any terminal on alter2. When connecting a booster battery, be sure to connect nator or rectifier. plus-to-plus and minus-to-minus battery terminals. 6. Do not attempt to polarize alternator. Never connect in series. INSPECTION At periodic intervals (determined largely by type of operating conditions), inspect battery, alternator, rectifier and wiring as follows: 1. Check terminals for corrosion and loose connections. 2. Inspect wires for frayed and worn insulation. 3. Check mounting bolts for tightness. TROUBLESHOOTING Trouble in charging system will show up as one or more of the following conditions: 1. An undercharged battery, as indicated by slow cranking and low specific gravity. 2. An overcharged battery, as indicated by excessive water usage. UNDERCHARGED BATTERY Slow: cranking and low specific gravity readings may be caused by one or more of the following conditions: 1) Disconnect internal wiring harness from electrical components. 2) Check for continuity between any of wires in harness with Magneto Analyzer (Scale No. 3). If continuity exists, repair or replace harness. SHORT TEST 1. Ensure that undercharged condition has not been caused by accessories turned on for extended periods. 2. Check battery for defects and replace if found defective. 3. Inspect wiring for shorts or open circuit. 3E-20 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM RESISTANCE TEST 1) Turn Magneto Analyzer selector switch to position No. 2 (Distributor Resistance) and clip small red and black leads together. 2) Tum meter adjustment knob for Scale No. 2 until meter pointer lines up with set position on left side of "OK " block on Scale No. 2. 3) Unclip small red and black leads. 4) Using wiring diagram as a guide, check each wire for resistance between harness connection and terminal ends. 5) If resistance exists, repair or replace harness. INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING HARNESS Instrument panel wiring harness is checked in same manner as engine wiring harness. Use wiring diagrams as a guide. 4. Check all connections for tightness and corrosion. Clean as required. 5. Connect V-O-A (0-20 volt scale) from red terminal (red-and-white terminal on "80" ) on rectifier to ground. 272R1 Zero reading indicates an open between rectifier and battery. 6- Check field relay in regulator for proper operation. Replace if defective. 7- If previous steps check satisfactorily, perform alternator system output check, following. ALTERNATOR SYSTEM OUTPUT CHECK MERCRUISER 60 IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to check charging system in any manner other than described belov\, as alternator and or diode rectifier may be damaged. 1. Disable ignition system by removing coil high tension lead from center of distributor cap and ground this lead to engine block. 2. Disconnect positive (red) output lead fron rectifier and connect test ammeter (20-0-20) in series with positive output lead and positive output terminal on rectifier. 3. Operate starter 10 to 15 seconds to remove battery- surface charge. 4 Reinstall high tension lead in distributor cap. 5. Start engine and accelerate to 3000 RPM. "Rhile accelerating, observe maximum reading on text ammeter. Reading must be 11 amps. 6. If amperage reading is below 11 amps, check alternator system components to determine cause. 7. After repairing alternator system, complete test procedure once again to assure proper operation. MERCRUISER 80-90 1. Disconnect blue alternator stator lead from blue voltage regulator lead. \OTE: Prevent leads from grounding. 2. Remove red white lead from rectifier and connect test ammeter (30-0-30 minimum) between lead and rectifier terminal. 3. Start engine and accelerate to 3000 RPM. Test ammeter should show 18 to 25 amps. Following conditions may exist: a. Total of 18 to 25 amps are present, but battery is undercharged. Check wiring to regulator. If wiring checks OK, replace regulator. b. Total of 18 to 25 amps are not shown: test rectifier. If rectifier tests OK, perform resistance check on stator. If rectifier tests unsatisfactory, replace rectifier and repeat test. OVERCHARGED BATTERY Check Battery. Remember that an overheated battery will be overcharged even though no charging circuit defects are present. MERCRUISER 80-90 If obvious overcharge condition exists (as indicated by excessive battery water usage) and, ii battery is not overheated and not defective, 2 conditions may be present: 1. Stator operation is abnormal. 2. Regulator not functioning properly. Perform following test to find abnormal component: Ground blue stator lead. If output drops to zero, regulator is bad. If output does not drop to zero, stator is bad. REMOVAL RECTIFIER STATOR 1. Disconnect leads from rectifier terminals. Refer to Section 8, "Engine Mechanical," forstator removal. 2. Remove rectifier hex head mounting boh. 3. Remove rectifier. DISASSEMBLY RECTIFIER STATOR Do not attempt to disassemble rectifier. If defective, Stator is located inside flywheel housing. Remove 4 replace. mounting bolts and remove stator. COMPONENT CHECKS RECTIFIER 2. Turn meter adjustment knob for Scale No. 3 until meter pointer lines up on right side (set position). 1. Turn Magneto Analyzer selector switch to position 3. Testing positive diodes No. 3 (Coil Continuity) and connect small red and a. Connect small red test lead to either alternator black test leads together. terminal and connect black lead to positive terminal ELECTRICAL SYSTEM -3C-21 to rectifier. (Figure 3) Meter pointer should move to right of Scale No. 3. b. Reverse test leads on rectifier. Meter pointer should remain stationary at left side of Scale No. 3. c. Repeat Steps "a " and "b " on opposite alternator Figure 4. Testing Negative Diodes terminal. This will determine condition of positive diodes. Testing negative diodes a. Connect small red test lead to either alternator terminal and connect black test lead to rectifier ground stud. (Figure 4) Meter pointer should remain stationary at left side of Scale No. 3. b. Reverse test leads on rectifier. Meter pointer should move to right side of Scale No. 3. c. Repeat Steps "a " and "b " on opposite alternator terminal. This will determine condition of negative diodes. NOTE: If any diode does not check OK, rectifier is defective and must be replaced. 5. Connect small red and black test leads to terminals of yellow alternator leads. 6. For MerCruiser 60, meter should indicate between .35 to .45 ohms on Scale No. 2. 7. Replace alternator stator if it does not meet above specifications. ALTERNATOR STATOR for MERCRUISER 80-90 1. Perform Steps l-thru-4 of MerCruiser 60 alternator stator test immediately preceding. 2. Connect small red and black test leads, as indicated, and read following ohms: a. Red 1 to Red 2 reads .10 to .50 ohms b. Red 1 to Blue reads 1.5 to 1.9 ohms c. Red 2 to Blue reads 1.7 to 2.0 ohms d. Red 1 to Ground reads open e. Red 2 to Ground reads open f. Blue to Ground reads open 3. Replace alternator stator if it does not meet above specifications. CAUTION: Do not attempt to check polarity of battery leads by "sparking" lead terminals against battery terminals. This action may result in a burned-out rectifier. NOTE: Burned-out rectifiers are greatly discolored and/or have a. "baked" appearance. Unless condition, which caused failure, is corrected, new rectifier will provide no better service than old rectifier. ALTERNATOR STATOR for MERCRUISER 60 1. Alternator stator may be tested without removing flywheel. 2. Disconnect 2 yellow or red alternator leads from rectifier. 3. Turn selector switch of Magneto Analyzer to position No. 2. 4. Turn No. 2 meter adjustment knob to adjust meter scale needle with red line on right side of Scale No. 2. 3E-22 -ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 272R1 SUMMARY OF ALTERNATOR CHECKS COMPONENT CONNECTION READING RESULTS Rectifier Positive Diodes Either Alternator Terminal to Positive Terminal Reverse Leads Opposite Alternator Terminal to Positive Terminal Reverse Leads Low High Low High Shcrted Open Shorted Open Negativ NegativNegativ e ee Diode DiodeDiode s ss Either Alternator Terminal to Ground Stud Reverse Leads Opposit OppositOpposit e ee Alternato AlternatoAlternato r rr Termina TerminaTermina l ll to General Stud Reverse Leads High Lo LoLo w ww High Low Open Shorted Open Shorted Stator MerCruiser 60 Yellow Lead to Yellow Lead .35 to .45 ohm Good Red 1 to Red 2 .10 to .50 ohm Good Red 1 to Blue 1.5 to 1.9 ohm Good MerCruise MerCruiseMerCruise r rr 80-9 80-980-9 0 00 Red 2 to Blue Red 1 to Ground 1.7 to 2.0 ohm High Good Open Red 2 to Ground High Open Blue to Ground High Open REASSEMBLY Reassembly, throughout, is the reverse order of disassembly. 272R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM -3E-23 SECTION 3 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM PART D SECTION 3 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM PART E - WIRING DIAGRAMS INDEX Engine Wiring Diagrams Page MerCruiser 60 3E-1 MerCruiser 80 3E-2 MerCruiser 90 3E-3 MerCruiser 110 and 140 (6-Cyl.) with Indicator Light 3E-4 MerCruiser 110, 120. 140 (4-Cyl.) and 150 with Ammeter and Relay Regulator 3E-5 MerCruiser 110, 120 and 150 with Ammeter and Transistor Regulator 3E-6 MerCruiser 110, 140 (4-Cyl.) and 150 with Ammeter, Transistor Regulator and Ballast Resistors 3E-7 MerCruiser 140 with Transistor Regulator 3E-8 MerCruiser 160 and 165 with Integral Alternator 3E-9 MerCruiser 888 3E-10 MerCruiser 215-H 3E-11 MerCruiser 215-E 3E-12 MerCruiser 200 3E-13 MerCruiser 225 with Relay Regulator and Indicator Light 3E-14 MerCruiser 190 and 225 with Relay Regulator and Ammeter 3E-15 MerCruiser 225 with Transistor Regulator 3E-16 MerCruiser 225 with Electric Choke 3E-17 MerCruiser 250 and 325 with Switch Box 3E-18 MerCruiser 250.and 325 with Water Temperature Switch . . .......................3E-19 MerCruiser 325 with Water Temperature Switch and Trim Sender 3E-20 MerCruiser 270 3E-21 Power Tilt Wiring Circuit 3E-22 Power Trim Wiring Circuit with Rocker Switch 3E-23 Power Trim Wiring Circuit with Early Push Button 3E-24 Power Trim Wiring Circuit with Late Push Button (One Solenoid) 3E-25 Power Trim Wiring Circuit - MerCruiser 215, 225II-TR and 255II-TR 3E-26 MerCruiser 120, 140 and 165 with Circuit Breaker and Vacuum Gauge 3E-27 MerCruiser 88B with Circuit Breaker and Vacuum Gauge . . .....................3E-28 MerCruiser 225 II TR and 255II-TR 3E-29 MerCruiser Power Trim Wiring Diagram with Late Push Button (Two Solenoids) 2E-30 Engine Wiring Diagram • MerCruiser 120 (Serial No. 3770650 end Up), 140 ( 3771645 and Up) and 165 (3774865 and Up) 3E-31 Engine Wiring Diagram - MerCruiser 888 (Serial No. 3777490 and Up) and 225-S (3836688 and Up) .. . ......... 3E-32 Engine Wiring Diagram - MerCruiser 225II-TR (Serial No. 3779775 and Up), 255H-TR and 255II-TRS (3838788 and Up) 3E-33 Engine Wiring Diagram - MerCruiser Inboard 225 (Serial No. 3750508 and Up) and 255 (3839488 and Up) .. . ..............3E-34 Engine Wiring Diagram • MerCruiser Inboard 350 (Serial No. 3780450 and Up) 3E-35 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-1 272R1 3E-2 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 272R1 272R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-3 3E-4 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 272R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-5 272R1 3E-6 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 272R1 272 R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-7 272R1 3E-8 • ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ELECTRICAL SYSTEM • 3E-9 272R1 373R1 3B-10 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-11 272R1 272R1 3E-12 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-13 272R1 272R1 3E-14 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 272R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-15 3E-16- ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 272R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-17 272R1 3E-18 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 272R1 272R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-19 3E-20 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 272R1 373R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3B-21 3E-22 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 272R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-23 272R1 272R1 3E-24 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1173R2 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-25 3E-26 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 373R1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-27 3E-28 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEVI ELECTRICAL SYSTEM • 3E-29 3E-30 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-31 3E-32 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ELECTRICAL SYSTEM -3E-33 1173 3E-34 3E-34 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - 3E-35 TABLE of CONTENTS Page FuelPartAC A Fuel System Fuel Pumps Pump 4A-1 4A-2 4A-2 Carter Fuel Pump (B-47585) 4A-5 MerCruiser "60" Fuel Pump (B-37135) 4A-7 MerCruiser "80" Fuel Pump (B-46666A1) 4A-9 MerCruiser "90" Fuel Pump 4A-11 Dual Diaphragm Fuel Pump 4A-13 Part B - Carburetors 4B-1 Model "B " and "BC" 4B-1 Model "2GC" 4B-12 Model "4GC" 4B-19 Holley Model 4160 4B-31 "MD" Series - "60" Marine Engine 4B-41 "RBS" Series - "80 " Marine Engine 4B-47 Model "4MV" Quadrajet 4B-55 Holley 2300C 4B-65 SECTION 4 - FUEL SYSTEMS PART A - FUEL PUMPS INDEX Page Page Fuel System 4A-1 MerCruiser "60" Fuel Pump (Part No. B-37135). . . . 4A-7 Description 4A-1 Description 4A-7 Components 4A-1 Precautions, Troubleshooting and Removal .... . 4A-7 Precautions 4A-1 Disassembly 4A-7 Installing Fuel Line Check Valve 110-120-150 Cleaning and Inspection 4A-8 Models 4A-1 Reassembly 4A-8 Port A Fuel Pumps 4A-2 Installation 4A-8 AC Fuel Pump 4A-2 MerCruiser "80 " Fuel Pump (Part No. B-46666A1) . . 4A-9 Description 4A-2 Description 4A-9 Precautions 4A-2 Precautions, Troubleshooting and Removal 4A-9 Troubleshooting 4A-2 Disassembly 4A-9 Pump Volume 4A-3 Cleaning and Inspection 4A-10 Pump Pressure Test 4A-3 Reassembly 4 A-10 Removal 4A-3 Installation 4A-10 Disassembly 4A-3 MerCruiser "90 " Fuel Pump 4A-11 Cleaning and Inspection 4A-4 Description 4A-11 Reassembly 4A-4 Precautions, Troubleshooting and Removal 4A-11 Installation 4A-4 Disassembly 4A-11 Carter Fuel Pump (Part No. B-47585) 4A-5 Cleaning and Inspection 4A-12 Description 4A-5 Reassembly 4A-12 Precautions, Troubleshooting and Removal ...................................... 4A-5 Installation 4A-12 Disassembly 4A-5 Dual Diaphragm Fuel Pump 4A-13 Cleaning and Inspection 4A-6 Description 4 A-13 Reassembly 4A-6 Inspection and Replacement 4A-13 Installation 4A-6 FUEL SYSTEM DESCRIPTION This section is divided into "Fuel Pumps" ana "Car-the fuel system. Removal, installation, cleaning and inburetors" and covers general fuel system performance spection of the carburetor and fuel pump are included. specifications and adjustment procedures required within COMPONENTS Several different fuel pumps and carburetors, used for stern drive and inboard application, will be discussed separately in this section. PRECAUTIONS Before servicing the fuel system, always disconnect the shorting which may ignite fuel that is spilled when fuel negative (-) battery terminal. This will prevent accidental lines are disconnected. INSTALLING FUEL LINE CHECK VALVE 110-120-150 Models A check valve and fuel line can be installed on MerCruiser 110-120-150 engines to eliminate excessive cranking after fuel tank or carburetor runs dry. If engine does not have a fuel line check valve, install one as follows: (Figure 1) 1. Remove tee fitting from carburetor and install fitting on discharge side of fuel pump. 2. Remove present restrictor and install check valve (B-22-45122) into tee fitting on inlet side of fuel filter. 3. Connect hose (B-32-45121) between check valve and tee. 4. Reverse fuel line and install. 5. Remove clip and install clip B-54-28938. Figure 1. Fuel Line Check Valve - 110-120-150 Models M 470 F J EL SYSTEMS - 4A-1 PART A - FUEL PUMPS AC FUEL PUMP DESCRIPTION Fuel pumps, used on 4, 6 and 8-cylinder models, are dia-push rod located in cylinder block between pump and fuel phragm type. Pumps are operated by an eccentric (located pump eccentric on camshaft. The 8-cylinder model pump toward front end of engine camshaft). On 4 and 6-cvlinder is inverted (relative to the 6-cylinder model pump) and models, an eccentric on camshaft actuates pump rocker has a larger capacity. A rubber oil seal is used on both arm. The 8-cylinder pump rocker arm is actuated by a pumps. Figures 2 and 3 show a cross-section of each pump. 01499 Figure 2. Four and 6-Cylinder Fuel Pump Figure 3. Eight-Cylinder Pump Cross-Section 1 2 3 4 5 6 Pulsator Cover Pulsator Diaphragm Outlet Valve Inlet Valve Diaphragm Assembly Diaphragm Spring 7 8 9 10 11 12 Oil Seat Fuel Cover Rocker ArmRocker ArmPivot Pin Pump Body Return Spring and Lever Assembly 1 2 3 4 5 6 Oil Seal and Retainer Diaphragm Spring Diaphram Assembly Inlet Valve Outlet Valve Pump Body 7 8 9 10 11 12 Pivot Pin Rocker Arm and _ever Assembly Rocker Arm Return Spring Fuel Cover Pulsator Diaphragm Pulsator Cover PRECAUTIONS Check regularly to be sure mounting bolts, cover-to-body bolts, pulsator diaphragm cover screws and inlet and outlet connections are tight. TROUBLESHOOTING Always check pump while mounted on engine and be sure that gasoline is present in fuel tank. Line from tank to pump is suction side of system, and line from pump to carburetor is pressure side. A leak on pressure side, therefore, would be evident from dripping fuel, but a leak on suction side would not be apparent, except from reducing volume of fuel on pressure side. If poor high speed performance, fuel pump may be at fault. Too low a pump pressure or volume will cause a high speed '"miss", because of lack of fuel deiivered to carburetor. while too high a pressure will cause carburetor flooding. 4A-2 - FUEL SYSTEMS PUMP VOLUME 1. Disconnect fuel line at carburetor and direct line into a container indicating pint level. 2. Start engine and run at idle, using fuel in carburetor bowl. 3. Measure time required to deliver one pint of fuel, then shut off engine. At idle, pump should deliver one pint of fuel in 30 to 45 seconds. a. If no gasoline or only a small amount flows from open end of line, fuel line is clogged or pump is inoperative. Before removing pump, remove fuel tank filler cap, disconnect both inlet and outlet lines from pump and blow thru lines with air hose to clear passage and eliminate possible clogged fuel filter in fuel tank. Reconnect lines to pump and retest flow. b. If pump volume is within limits, proceed with "Pump Pressure Test", following. PUMP PRESSURE TEST 1. Disconnect fuel line at fuel filter and attach fuel pump tween idle and 1000 RPM. If pressure is too low or too pressure gauge to fuel line. high, or varies at different speeds, remove pimp for re2. Start engine and run at idle. Observe reading on gauge. pair. If fuel pump pressure checks out correctly after a 3. If pump is operating properly, pressure will be 5l4 to high speed problem, overhaul carburetor. 6'A PSI for V-8 engine, 354 to 4'A PSI for 4 and 64. Remove gauge and reconnect fuel line to filter. Inspect cylinder engines, VA to 3'A PSI for "60" . "80 " and fuel line for kinks and sharp bends and check all con" 90" engines, and will remain constant at speeds benections for leaks. REMOVAL 1. Disconnect fuel inlet and outlet lines at fuel pump and fuel cover. 2. Remove 2 fuel pump mounting boltspump and gasket. 3. On 8-cylinder models, if removingrod, detach 2 adaptor mounting bolts and lockwashers, rocker arm push and lockwashers and remove adaptor and gasket from lock. Remove push rod from block. NOTE: After removal of pump from engine and before disassembly is started, plug all openings and thoroughly wash exterior of pump with cleaning solvent to remove all dirt and grease. NOTE: Various AC fuel pumps have ical disassemblies. DISASSEMBLY basically ident-1. Remove fuel pulsator diaphragm plate and diaphragm from fuel cover. 2. Mark edges of fuel cover and body flange with file. Parts then may be reassembled in same relative position. 3. Remove cover screws and lockwashers. Separate fuel cover from body by jarring cover loose with a light plastic hammer. 4. Raise fuel pump link with a screwdriver. (Figure 4) Unhook diaphragm from link by pressing down and away from rocker arm side. Remove oil seal and retainer from diaphragm. NOTE: Figure 5 depicts the 4 and 6-cylinder pump as a tvpical disassembly. Figure 4. Raising Fuel Link FUEL SYSTEMS -4 A-3 CLEANING and 1. Clean and rinse all metal parts in solvent. Blow out all passages with air hose. 2. Inspect pump body and fuel cover for cracks, breakage and distorted flanges. Examine all screw holes for stripped or crossed threads. Pump assembly replacement is advisable if one of main castings is not serviceable. 3. Inspect rocker arm and link for excessive wear and for loose hinge pin. 4. Use proper diaphragm repair kit to replace diaphragm. INSPECTION 5. Replace rocker arm spring and diaphragm springs as removed. Old springs may be distorted, weak or corroded. 6. Check condition of valves by pushing each valve off its seat with a thin rod or pencil. Insert hooked wire thru inlet opening in fuel cover to move fuel inlet valve off its seat. If a valve sticks to its seat, if it moves off its seat and does not rebound or, if cage is dam aged, complete valve must be replaced. To remove valves, clear staked metal (with a sharp chisel, file or suitable scraper) and pull valve out with a hook-shaped tool. REASSEMBLY 1. Install oil seal to diaphragm push rod in following manner: Assemble oil seal spring, upper retainer. 2 leather seals and lower retainer with convex side out. This is extremely important in order to seal fuel pump from any oil that might rise from crankcase. Raise fuel pump link with a screwdriver (Figure 4), install diaphragm spring and hook diaphragm pull rod over end of link. 2. If either valve was removed from fuel cover, install by placing gasket in recess and pressing valve into place. Outlet valve cage must face bottom of cover, and inlet valve cage must face opposite. Secure valve assembly by staking cover metal in 4 places around valve. 3. Place new pulsator diaphragm over fuel cover opening, install plate and retain with screw and fiber washer. 4. Install cover on body, making sure that file marks on cover and body line up. Push on rocker arm until diaphragm is flat across body flange. Install cover screws and lockwashers loosely until screws just engage lock- washers. Push rocker arm thru its full stroke to flex diaphragm and hold in that position while tightening cover screws securely. CAUTION: Diaphragm must be flexed to its full stroke while tightening cover screws, or pump diaphragm protector will not be properly centered, thereby rubbing on pump body casting and wearing diaphragm. INSTALLATION 1. Install fuel pump gasket and fuel pump. 2. Connect fuel lines to pump. 3. Start engine and check for leaks. 4A-4 - FUEL SYSTEMS CARTER FUEL PUMP (Part No. B-47585) DESCRIPTION The Carter fuel pump is similar to the AC fuel pump, preceding. The differences only will be discussed in this section. Figure 1. Carter Fuel Pump PRECAUTIONS, TROUBLESHOOTING and REMOVAL Precautions, Troubleshooting and Removal are the same as the AC fuel pump, preceding. DISASSEMBLY 1. Mark edges of fuel cover and body flange with file. 2. Loosen screw and remove filter holder, filter and gas- Parts then may be reassembled in same relative posi- ket. tion. 3. Remove 6 phillips head screws and pump body. Figure 2. Carter Fuel Pump Exploded View 6 7 8 9 10 04900 1 Filter Cover Retainer Pulsator Housing 11 Diaphragm 16 Rocker Arm 2 Fi Iter Cover Pulsator 12 Pump Body 17 Rocker Arm Spring 3 Filter Spring Screw 13 Rocker Arm Pin Plug 18 Screw 4 Filter Lockwashei 14 Rocker Arm Pin 19 Lockwasher 5 Filter Gasket Valve Body 15 Rocker Arm Retainer FUEL SYSTEMS - 4A-5 4. Remove 2 screws and lockwasher and separate lower 5. Remove spring, rocker arm shaft plug, safety pin, rock- housing, pulsator diaphragm and valve housing. er arm shaft and rocker arm from main body. 6. Remove diaphragm seal assembly. CLEANING and INSPECTION Cleaning and Inspection are same as AC fuel pump, preceding. REASSEMBLY 1. Replace diaphragm, pulsator, filter gasket and rocker arm shaft plug. CAUTION: Diaphragm must be flexed to its full 2. Push diaphragm into pump body and install rocker arm stroke while tightening cover screws, or pump so that fork catches diaphragm. diaphragm protector will not be properly centered, 3. Install rocker arm shaft, safety pin and rocker arm thereby rubbing on pump body casting and wearing shaft plug. diaphragm. 4. Attach valve housing to lower housing with 2 screws. 5. Assemble pump bodies with 6 phillips head screws, making sure that file marks line up. 6. Reassemble filter to pump body, replacing filter. INSTALLATION 1. Install fuel pump gasket and fuel pump. 2. Connect fuel lines to pump. 3. Start engine and check for leaks 4A-6 - FUEL SYSTEMS MERCRUISER "60" FUEL PUMP (Part No. B-37135) DESCRIPTION MerCruiser 60 fuel pump is similar to the AC fuel pump, preceding. The differences only will be discussed in this section. Figure 1. MerCruiser "60" Fuel Pump 04921 PRECAUTIONS, TROUBLESHOOTING and REMOVAL Precautions, Troubleshooting and Removal are same as AC fuel pump, preceding. DISASSEMBLY 1. Mark edges of fuel cover and body flange with file. 4. Remove nut and lockwasher from top of diaphragm. Then reassemble parts in same relative position. 5. Remove 4 pieces of diaphragm, diaphragm spring, 2. Loosen thumb nut and remove filter case and filter from spring and retainer. pump body. 6. Remove spring from rocker arm. Remove 6 screws and separate pump bodv. 7. Remove oil seal and rod from rocker arm. 04902 Figure 2. MerCruiser "60 " Fuel Pump Exploded View 1 Filter Cover 5 Washer 9 Seal Spring 13 Pump Body 2 Filter 6 Diaphragm Retainer 10 Spring Seat 14 Spring Rocker Arm Return 34 Valve Nut Housing 78 Diaphragm Spring Retainer 1112 Gasket Diaphragm Bolt 1516 Washer Bolt 570 FUEL SYSTEMS 4B- 378 CLEANING and INSPECTION Cleaning and Inspection are same as AC fuel pump, preceding. REASSEMBLY 1. Assemble diaphragm and oil seal assembly and insert in pump housing under rocker arm. CAUTION: Diaphragm must be flexed to its full 2. Install rocker arm spring. stroke while tightening cover screws, or pump 3. Assemble body halves together with 6 screws, making diaphragm protector will not be properly centered, sure that file marks line up. thereby rubbing on pump body casting and wearing 4. Insert new filter in filter holder. diaphragm. INSTALLATION 1. Install fuel pump gasket and fuel pump. 2. Connect fuel lines to pump. 3. Start engine and check for leaks. 4A-8 -FUEL SYSTEMS MERCRUISER "80" FUEL PUMP (Part No. B-46666A1) DESCRIPTION MerCruiser "80" fuel pump is similar to AC fuel pump, preceding. The differences only will be discussed in this section. PRECAUTIONS, TROUBLESHOOTING and REMOVAL Precautions, Troubleshooting and Removal are same as AC fuel pump, preceding. DISASSEMBLY 1. Mark edges of fuel cover and body flange with file. 4. Remove rocker arm screw and pull out rocker arm ass- Parts then may be assembled in same relative position. embly. 2. Remove screw filter retainer and filter. 5. Remove diaphragm. 3. Remove 8 screws and separate body halves. 04901 Figure 2. MerCruiser "80" Fuel Pump Exploded View 1 Bolt 7 Pump Body 2 Filter Cover Retainer 8 Rocker Arm Assembly 3 Fi Iter Cover 9 Rocker Arm Assembly Screw 4 Filter 10 Lockwasher 5 Valve Housing 11 Bolt 6 Diaphragm FUEL SYSTEMS -4B- 378 CLEANING and INSPECTION Cleaning and Inspection are same as AC fuel pump, preceding. REASSEMBLY 1. Insert diaphragm into pump body. 2. Insert rocker arm assembly into pump body to hold CAUTION: Diaphragm must be Hexed to its full diaphragm. stroke while tightening cover screws, or pump 3. Install rocker arm screw. diaphragm protector will not be properly cen4. Assemble body halves together with 8 screws, making tered, thereby rubbing on pump body casting and sure that file marks line up. wearing diaphragm. 5. Install filter in filter retainer and tighten screw. INSTALLATION 1. Install fuel pump gasket and fuel pump. 2. Connect fuel lines to pump. 3. Start engine and check for leaks. 4A-10 - FUEL SYSTEMS MERCRUISER "90" FUEL PUMP DESCRIPTION MerCruiser"90" fuel pump is actuated by arides on a cam lobe. Pump is similar topreceding. Figure 1. MerCruiser "90 " Fuel Pump push rod which AC fuel pump, PRECAUTIONS, TROUBLESHOOTING and REMOVAL Precautions, Troubleshooting and Removal are same as AC fuel pump, preceding. DISASSEMBLY (Figure 2) 1. Remove 2 screws, cover, gasket and filter. 4. Remove spring and diaphragm assembly. 2. Remove 6 screws and valve body. 5. Remove pin and disassemble push rod from diaphragm. 3. Press down on diaphragm and remove spring retainer from push rod. Figure 2. MerCruiser "90" Fuel Pump Exploded View 1 - Screw 8 - Spring 2 - Cover 9 - Oil Seal 3 - Gasket 10 - Pin 4 - Filter 11 - Pump Body 5 - Screw 12 - Pump Housing 6 - Valve Hous ing 1 3 - Spring 7 - Diaphragm 14 - Spring Retainer FUEL SYSTEMS - 4A-11 CLEANING and INSPECTION Cleaning and Inspection are same as AC fuel pump, preceding. REASSEMBLY 1. Assemble diaphragm, spring, seal and push rod together 4. Assemble valve body to pump body with 6 screws. with pin. 5. Insert filter and cover gasket and attach cover with 2 2. Insert diaphragm assembly into pump body. screws. 3. Insert spring and spring retainer to push rod. INSTALLATION 1. Install pump gasket and fuel pump. 2. Connect fuel lines to pump. 3. Start engine and check for leaks. 4A-12 - FUEL. SYSTEMS 470 DUAL DIAPHRAGM FUEL PUMP DESCRIPTION These pumps have 2 diaphragms (separated by a metal spacer) and a sight gauge attached. Dual diaphragm construction has 3 important safety features. 1. If main diaphragm fails, pump continues to function with second diaphragm. 2. No gasoline can leak outward from pump. It can leak only into space between diaphragms. 3. Gasoline in sight gauge exposes defective pump. Possibility of diaphragms failing simultaneously is remote, since they are composed of different materials and are shaped differently. Figure 1. Dual Diaphragm Fuel Pump ------> INSPECTION and REPLACEMENT Dual diaphragm pump is not repairable and, therefore, Various carburetors, used with MerCruiser engines, are must be replaced if defective. Inspect sight glass for designed to meet particular requirements of engine and fuel. If fuel is present, replace fuel pump. stern drive. Carburetors are carefully tested and adjusted before leaving the factory. FUEL SYSTEMS - 4A-13 SECTION 4 - FUEL SYSTEMS PART B - CARBURETORS INDEX Page Page Model "B " and " 4B-1 Test before Installation on Engine 4B-26 Description 4B-1 Installation 4B-26 Precautions 4B-1 Adjustments on Engine 4B-27 Troubleshooting 4B-1 Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustments 4B-27 Troubleshooting Chart 4B-2 Float Level and Drop Adjustments 4B-27 Main Metering Jet Sizes 4B-3 Pump Rod Adjustment 4B-28 Removal 4B-5 Automatic Choke Adjustment 4B-28 Disassembly 4B-5 Intermediate Choke Rod Adjustment 4B-28 Cleaning and Inspection 4B-6 Choke Rod Adjustment 4B-28 Reassembly 4B-7 Choke Unloader Adjustment 4B-28 Installation 4B-7 Secondary Thorttle Lockout Adjustment 4B-28 Adjustments for Model "B" Carburetor 4B-8 Secondary Throttle Contour Clearance Adjustment . . . 4B-28 Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustment 4B-8 Secondary Throttle Valve Lock Spring Adjustment . . . 4B-29 Float Level Adjustment 4B-8 Holley Model 4160 Carburetor 4B-31 Float Drop Adjustment 4B-8 Description 4B-31 Air Horn Installation 4B-8 Precautions 4B-31 Inlet Fuel Filter 4B-8 Troubleshooting 4B-31 Remove and Replace 4B-8 Removal 4B-31 Adjustments for Model "BC" Carburetor 4B-10 Disassembly 4B-34 Inlet Fuel Filter 4B-10 Primary Fuel Bowl and Metering Block Disassembly . . . 4B-34 Remove and Replace 4B-10 Secondary Fuel Bowl and Metering Block Disassembly . 4B-34 Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustment 4B-10 Main Body Disassembly 4B-35 Automatic Choke Adjustment 4B-10 Throttle Body Disassembly 4B-35 Choke Rod Setting 4B-10 Cleaning and Inspection 4B-35 Unloader Adjustment 4B-10 Reassembly 4B-36 Float Level Adjustment 4B-10 Installation 4B-38 Float Drop Adjustmert 4B-11 Adjustments 4B-38 Model "2GC" Carburetor 4B-12 "MD " Series Carburetor - "60" Marine Engine 4B41 Description 4B-12 Description 4B41 Precautions 4B-12 Precautions 4B41 Troubleshooting 4B-12 Troubleshooting 4B41 Removal 4B-12 Removal 4B-41 Air Horn Removal 4B-12 Disassembly 4B43 Disassembly 4B-14 Cleaning and Inspection 4B44 Air Horn Disassembly 4B-14 Reassembly 4B44 Float Bowl Disassembly 4B-15 Installation 4B45 Throttle Body Disassembly 4B-15 Adjustments 4B46 Cleaning and Inspection 4B-15 "RBS" Series Carburetor - "80 " Marine Engine 4B-47 Reassembly 4B-16 Description 4B-47 Throttle Body Reassembly 4B-16 Precautions 4B47 Float Bowl Reassembly 4B-16 Troubleshooting 4B47 Air Horn Reassembly 4B-16 Removal 4B47 Choke Reassembly 4B-17 Disassembly 4B49 Installation 4B-17 Cleaning and Inspection 4B-50 Adjustments 4B-17 Reassembly 4B-50 Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustments 4B-17 Installation 4B-52 Float Level and Drop Adjustments 4B-18 Adjustments 4B-52 Automatic Choke Adjustment 4B-18 Model "4MV " Quadrajet Carburetor 4B-55 Choke Rod Adjustment 4B-18 Description 4B-55 Unloader Adjustment 4B-18 Precautions 4B-55 Model "4GC" Carburetor 4B-19 Troubleshooting 4B-55 Description 4B-19 Removal 4B-55 Precautions 4B-19 Disassembly 4B-57 Troubleshooting 4B-19 Cleaning and Inspection 4B-59 Removal 4B-19 Reassembly 4B-59 Disassembly 4B-19 Installation 4B-60 Choke Assembly 4B-19 Adjustments 4B-60 Bowl Cover 4B-19 Holley Model 2300C Carburetor 4B-65 Carburetor Body 4B-22 Description 4B-65 Throttle Flange 4B-23 Precautions 4B-66 Cleaning and Inspection 4B-24 Troubleshooting 4B-65 Inlet Fuel Filter 4B-24 Removal 4B-65 Removal and Replacement 4B-24 Disassembly 4B-65 Reassembly 4B-24 Cleaning and Inspection 4B-69 Carburetor Body 4B-24 Reassembly 4B-69 Bowl Cover 4B-25 Installation 4B-70 Carburetor Reassembly 4B-25 Adjustments 4B-70 PART B - CARBURETORS MODEL "B" and "BC DESCRIPTION Various carburetors, used with MerCruiser engines, are designed to meet particular requirements of engine and stern drive. Carburetors are carefully tested and adjusted before leaving the factory. Model "B " carburetor is a single bore, downdraft type that is equipped with a manually-operated choke. Model "BC" is the same as "B", except that "BC" has a fully automatic choke mounted on the air horn. Figure 1. Model "B " and "BC " Carburetors PRECAUTIONS Before making carburetor adjustments, make sure that Engine must be warmed-up to operating temperature (at carburetor-to-manifold and manifold-to-cylinder head bolts least 15 minutes running time), or carburetor misalignment are tight, thus preventing air leaks. will occur. All carburetor adjustments may be made with out removing carburetor from engine. TROUBLESHOOTING Use following troubleshooting chart to isolate a problem. NOTE: Refer to Section 8 for current specifications. 570 FUEL SYSTEMS -4B-378 CARBURETORS TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART * Numbers under each complaint heading indicate order of probability of causes listed. * Indicates other possible troubles. 4B-2 - FUEL SYSTEMS 273R1 MAIN METERING STANDARD JET SIZES Do not identify main metering jets by the orifice size which is angles that a jet may have. .Ail 3 could have the same size stamped on front of jet. It is possible to have 3 different jets orifice, although each one will allow a different amount of fuel with the same size orifice, as jets are avialable with 3 different to flow thru the carburetor. When ordering replacement jets, approach angles. Figures, shown below, illustrate the approach order by part number and not by orifice size. HIGH ALTITUDE PERFORMANCE -MERCRUISER ENGINES High altitude performance tests have shown that very little rated RPM should be considered a special case and referred to performance improvement is realized by increased spark the factory branch or area distributor for specific jet sizes and advance or carburetor recalibration. On the contrary, reprop-spark timing settings. These recommendations should not be ping the unit to run at its rated RPM has shown a significant made until the customer is fully aware of the following points: increase in performance. Based on this testing, our general 1. Operating an engine with the above changes at lower recommendation should be to "reprop the unit to its rated elevation will cause engine failure. RPM in order to obtain maximum performance". 2. Making the above changes (leaner jets and advanced spark timing) will result in increased fuel economy, but will not Any recommendation, other than changing props, to obtain have a significant effect on performance. 273R1 FUEL SYSTEMS - 4B-3 1 Air Horn Assembly' 2 Plug, air horn 3 Spring 4 Filter, fuel inlet 5 Gasket 6 Gasket 7 Nut 8 Gasket 9 Inlet Needle & Seat Ass'y 10 Main Well Support Ass'y 11 Screw, main well support to 12 Jet, main well support 13 Power Valve Ass'y 14 Screw 15 Lever, Choke 16 Choke Shaft Ass'y 17 Valve, choke 18 Screw 19 Plug, idle passage 20 Plug, idle passage 21 Piston, power - air horn 22 Spring, power piston 23 Float Assembly 24 Pin, hinge 25 Gasket, air horn 26 Float Bowl Assembly 27 Guide, pump discharge 28 Spring, pump discharge 29 Ball, pump discharge 30 Gasket, throttle body 31 Pump Assembly 32 Spring 33 Throttle Body Ass'y 34 Spring 35 Idle Adjusting Needle 36 Clip, choke rod-upper 37 Rod, choke 38 Clip, choke rod-lower 39 Cam, fast idle 40 Screw 41 Choke Tube Ass'y 42 Nut 43 Packing, choke tube nut 44 Idle Stop Screw 45 Link 46 Pin, hair 47 Screw 48 Gasket, carb. flange 49 Choke Housing Ass'y 50 Welch Plug 51 Screw 52 Lever Assembly 53 Choke Piston 54 Pin 55 Screw 56 Plate, baffle 57 Gasket 58 Stat Cover & Coil Ass'y Figure 2. Carburetor Disassembled 59 Retainer 60 Screw 01514 4B-4 - FUEL SYSTEMS REMOVAL 1. Remove flame arrestor. NOTE: Replace element if flooding occurs. 2. Remove fuel line connection and inlet fuel filter. 6. Disconnect fuel and choke heat lir.es ("BC " model 3. Remove inlet fuel filter nut from carburetor inlet fuel carburetor only) from carburetor. filter with 1" box wrench or socket. (Figure 2) 7. Disconnect throttle rod from throttle lever. 4. Remove filter element, spring and 2 gaskets. 8. Remove 2 carburetor flange-to-manifold stud nuts and 5. Clean element by washing in solvent and blowing out. lift carburetor off. DISASSEMBLY (Figure 2) "BC" CARBURETOR 1. Remove choke rod retaining spring clip and rod from choke shaft lever. 2. Unscrew vacuum tube connector nut from choke housing. 3. Remove 4 bowl cover screws and return spring bracket. 4. Lift cover straight up to prevent damage to floats. 5. Place cover up-ended on a flat surface and remove float hinge pin, floats and float needle. (Figure 3) Figure 4. Automatic Choke Disassembly 10. File choke valve screw staked ends level with choke shaft. 11. Remove 2 choke valve plate retaining screws from shaft, remove plate and slide shaft out of air horn by first rotating shaft to remove piston and pin from choke housing. 12. Remove choke housing from bowl cover by removing 2 attaching phillips head screws and gasket. 13. Remove float seat and gasket. 6. Remove carburetor fuel filter inlet nut, gaskets, fuel 14. Remove main well support, vacuum power piston and filter and spring. spring. 7. Remove 3 choke cover attaching screws and retainers, 15. Lift off cover gasket. then remove choke cover and thermostatic coil assembly 16. Remove main metering jet and power valve retainer, from choke housing. spring and ball from main well support. 8. Remove choke cover gasket and baffle plate. (Figure 4) 17. While holding accelerating pump plunger ail-the-way 9. Remove choke shaft lever retaining screw and levers. down in bowl, remove hairpin retainers and pump link from throttle lever and pump arm. Now lift pump ass- NOTE: Choke valve and shaft should not be removed embly from bowl. Place plunger in gasoline or kerosene unless shaft is binding or valve is damaged. If either to prevent leather from drying out. condition exists, disassemble as outlined in Steps 10, 18. Lift pump return spring from pump well. 11 and 12. Disregard Steps 10, 11 and 12 if either 19. Remove pump discharge guide (F igure 5) with needle- condition does not exist. nose pliers. Figure 3. Removing Float FUEL SYSTEMS - 4B-5 20. Carefully remove pump discharge spring and ball by turning bowl upside down. 21. With bowl upside down, remove 2 throttle body attaching screws and gasket. 22. Remove idle mixture needle (adjusting screw) and spring from throttle body. "B " CARBURETOR (Figures 2, 3 and 5) 1. Remove 4 bowl cover screws. 2. Refer to Steps 4-thru-22 (omitting Steps 7-thru-12) of "BC" carburetor disassembly, immediately preceding. Figure 5. Removing Pump Discharge Guide CLEANING and 1. Wash all metal parts thoroughly in carburetor solvent and dry with compressed air. 2. Check all parts and passages for clogging and deposits. 3. Blow out all drilled passages with compressed air and check to make sure that they are clean. NOTE: Do not, under any circumstances, use wire or other pointed instruments to clean drilled passages or calibrated holes in carburetor. 4. Inspect pump plunger. If leather or its garter expanding spring is damaged in any way, replace plunger assembly. Shake plunger to determine if bypass ball check (inside assembly) is free. 5. To check pump system: a. Pour l!4" (38mm) of gasoline into carburetor bowl. b. Take pump plunger from can of gasoline or kerosene and slide into pump cylinder. c. Place discharge check ball into body. d. Raise plunger and press lightly on shaft to expel air from pump passage. e. Using a small clean brass rod, hold discharge ball down firmly on its seat. f. Again raise plunger and press downward. No fuel should flow past discharge ball or back thru inlet ball in pump assembly. INSPECTION g. If pump plunger depresses easily, presence of dirt or damaged check balls is indicated. h. Clean passage again and repeat test. If leakage still is present, replace check ball or pump plunger assembly. 6. Check floats for dents and wear on lip and hinge pin. Also check cover for wear in hinge pin holes. 7. Check float needle. If wear is noted on float needle, install new float needle assembly which consists of matched and tested needle and seat and new fiber washer. 8. Check power piston for burrs or other damage. Piston must move freely in cover bore. 9. Check throttle arm for looseness on shaft and for excessive wear at throttle rod connection. 10. Check throttle shaft for excessive looseness in throttle body. NOTE: Any damage or excessive wear in throttle arm or shaft requires replacement of throttle body assembly. This is due to the close tolerance of throttle valve fit required and the fact that idle discharge and spark advance holes are drilled in relation to a proper fitting valve. 11. Check choke valve for freedom of operation in cover when assembled. 12. Check bronze fuel filter for chips or cracks. 4B-6-FUEL SYSTEMS 273R1 DISASSEMBLY 1. Install idle mixture needle (adjusting screw) and spring, finger tight, in throttle body. As a temporary idle adjustment, back needle out 2 turns. 2. Using a new throtile body gasket, attach bowl to throttle body, securing with 2 screws and lockwashers, and tighten screws evenly and securely. 3. Place pump return spring into pump well and center spring by depressing with finger. 4. Install pump plunger assembly, carefully insert leather portion into bow! and connect pump link to throttle lever and pump arm. Install hairpin retainers at both upper and lower ends of link. 5. Drop large steel ball into pump discharge cavity of bowl and place spring on top of ball. (Figure 6) 6. Insert index end of pump discharge guide into spring and press guide down until flush with bowl surface. 7. Place new air horn gasket on air horn. 8. Place power piston spring and power piston in air hom cavity and attach main well support to cover with a screw and lockwasher. 9. Install main metering jet and tighten securely. 10. While holding power piston stem down, install power ball,spring and plug and tighten securely. 11. Install a new fiber washer in float needle seat well and install seat and float needle. 12. Attach float and hinge pin. NOTE: Float tang must face cover. 13. Adjust float setting as outlined under "Adjustments, Float Drop and Float Level", following. 14. Place cover on bowl. Install attaching screws and lock- washers and return spring bracket and tighten securely. 16. On "BC" carburetor onlv: Reverse disassembly Steps 15. Install fuel filter element spring and insert fuel filter 7-thru-12 and install and tighten vacuum tube connector element with cone facing opening. Position inner gasket nut to choke housing. and outer gasket and secure with fuel filter inlet nut. 17. On "BC" carburetor onlv: Attach choke rod to choke (Figure 1) shaft lever and install rod retaining spring clip. INSTALLATION 1. Place carburetor in position with gasket on manifold 4. On "BC " carburetor onlv: Connect choke heat tube to studs and install retaining nuts. Tighten evenly and choke housing. securely. 5. Adjust idle speed and mixture as outlined under "Adjustments". NOTE: Be sure that gasket is positioned correctly. 6. Refer to "Adjustments" for all necessary carburetor All vacuum holes must be open. adjustments. NOTE: It is recommended that all adjustments to be 2. Connect fuel line to carburetor. made, other than those mentioned, be done upon com 3. Connect throttle rod to throttle shaft lever. pletion of assembly and installation of carburetor. FUEL SYSTEMS - 4B-7 ADJUSTMENTS for MODEL "B" CARBURETOR IDLE SPEED and MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT 6. Bend float arms vertically, if necessary. (Figure 8) 7. Carefully bend float arms horizontally so that each NOTE: This adjustment should be performed with float is centered in the gasket. Recheck level adjust- flame arrestor installed. ment. Distance from air hom gasket to top of each float is 1-9/32" (32.6mm). 1. Connect a tachometer to a coil primary terminal and ground. 2. Kith engine operating and choke valve wide open, adjust idle speed and mixture as follows: a. Adjust idle speed screw "A " (Figure 7) to give idle speed of 500 RPM. b. Adjust idle mixture screw "B " (Figure 7) to give highest steady RPM at idle speed. c. If necessary, repeat Steps "a " and "b" , preceding, for "fine" adjustment. FLOAT LEVEL ADJUSTMENT (Figure 8) 1. Remove carburetor flame arrestor from air horn. 2. Disconnect fuel line at carburetor. 3. Remove 4 cover attaching screws. 4. Lift cover straight up to prevent damage to floats. 5. Place assembly up-er.ded on a flat surface. Crankcase Ventilator Fitting Figure 8. Float Level Adjustment FLOAT DROP ADJUSTMENT (Figure 9) To ensure sufficient entry of fuel under high speed operation, it is necessary to check and adjust float drop. 1. Hold cover assembly in upright position and let floats suspend freely. 2. Carefully bend float tang, only if necessary, at rear of float assembly so that float is 1-3/4" (44.45mm) below gasket surface. Fi gu re 7. Idl e Speed and Mi xture Adju stment 4B-8 - FUEL SYSTEMS Figure 9. Float Drop Adjustment AIR HORN INSTALLATION 1. Install 4 attaching screws and tighten screws securely. (Figure 10) 2. Connect fuel line to carburetor fuel filter. 3. Replace carburetor flame arrestor and check and adjust idle speed and idle mixture, if necessary. INLET FUEL FILTER remove and replace 1. Remove fuel line connection and inlet fuel filter. 273R1 2. Remove inlet fuel filter nut from carburetor inlet fuel filter with a 1" box wrench or socket. (Figure 11) 3. Remove filter element, spring and 2 gaskets. 4. Clean element by washing in solvent and blowing out. NOTE: Replace element if flooding occurs. 5. Reverse procedure for replacement. NOTE: Proper installation of fuel filter element is important. Small end of cone faces inlet fuel filter nut. 01405 01402 Figure 11. Carburetor Fuel Filter Figure 10. Air Horn Installed 570 FUEL SYSTEMS - 4B- 378 ADJUSTMENTS for MODEL "BC" CARBURETOR INLET FUEL FILTER REMOVE and REPLACE Same as Model "B " carburetor, preceding. IDLE SPEED and MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT (Figure 12) Same as Model "B " carburetor, preceding Figure 13. Adjusting Choke Rod 3. If necessary, bend tang to throttle lever to obtain necessary clearance. FLOAT LEVEL ADJUSTMENT 1. Remove carburetor flame arrestor. 2. Disconnect fuel line at carburetor fuel filter inlet. Figure 12. Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustment AUTOMATIC CHOKE ADJUSTMENT 1. Adjust automatic choke by loosening 3 small screws which secure bakelite choke cover. 2. With cover loosened, insert screwdriver and set scribe mark on cover in line with index mark on choke housing. 3. Tighten 3 cover screws. CHOKE ROD SETTING 1. No adjustment is necessary, except to make sure that idle screw contacts cam when choke valve is completely open or closed. 2. If screw drops off cam in either choke valve position, bend choke rod to position cam correctly. (Figure 13) UNLOADER ADJUSTMENT 1. Place throttle in wide open position. 2. Using Tool J-9580, check that small step of gauge .230/.270 slides freely between lower edge of choke valve or bore of carburetor. (Figure 14) 4B-10 - FUEL SYSTEMS Figure 14. Checking Unloacer 273R1 3. Unscrew fitting on choke vacuum tube at cover. 4. Disconnect heat pipe from choke to exhaust manifold Float Arms "stove". 5. Remove tube from carburetor clean air intake tube. 6. Disconnect choke rod from choke lever by removing lever to rod spring clip. 7. Remove 4 cover screws and lockwashers. 8. Lift cover assembly straight up to prevent damage to floats. 9. Place cover assembly with cover gasket in an up-ended position on a flat surface. 10. Bend float arms vertically, if necessary. (Figure 15) 11. Carefully bend float arms horizontally so that each float is centered in the gasket. Recheck level adjustment. Distance from air horn gasket to top of each float is 1-9/32" (32.6mm). FLOAT DROP ADJUSTMENT To ensure sufficient entry of fuel under high speed operation, it is necessary to check and adjust float drop. 1. Hold cover assembly in upright position and let floats suspend freely. 2. Carefully bend float tang, only if necessary, at rear of MODEL 2GC CARBURETOR DESCRIPTION Figure 15. Checking Float Centering float assembly so that float is 1-3/4" (44.45mm) below gasket surface. The 2GC is a 2-bore carburetor with automatic choke. The major portion of calibrated metering parts are contained in the venturi cluster (located in float bowl) and may be serviced readily by removing air horn assembly. Idle tubes and main discharge nozzles are pressed into venturi clusters and need not be serviced separately. Pump jets are part of venturi cluster also. Power restrictions are pressed into fuel bowl at factory, thereby making replacement unnecessary. Figure 1. 2GC Carburetor PRECAUTIONS Before making carburetor adjustments, be sure that carNOTE: Warmup is not required for float level and pump buretor-to-manifold and manifold-to-cylinder head bolts lever operations. are tight to prevent air leaks. Engine must be warmed up to operating temperature, or carburetor misalignment will occur. Allow engine to run for at least 15 minutes. FUEL SYSTEMS - 4B- 378 TROUBLESHOOTING Refer to troubleshooting chart in "B " and "BC " section, NOTE: Refer to "Specifications" Section 8 for current preceding. data. REMOVAL 1. Remove flame arrestor. 2. Remove fuel line connection, choke heater connection and crankcase ventilation connection. 3. Disconnect throttle rod from throttle. 4. Remove 4 carburetor flange-to-manifold stud nutslift carburetor off. AIR HORN REMOVAL 1. Mount carburetor on correct holding fixture. 2. Remove 3 retainer screws and retainers fromstat cover. Remove stat cover, gasket and baffle plate. (Figure 3) (Continued on Page 4B-14) Figure 2. Removing Choke Stat Cover and choke 1 Air Horn 2 1 Guide 43 Gasket 2 Power Piston Assembly (6-Cyl.and 140) 22 Spring 44 Screw 3 Gasket 23 Ball 45 -Lockwasher 4 Screw 24 Power Valve Assembly (6-Cyl.and 140) 46 Cam, fast idle 5 Screw 25 Gasket (6-Cyl.and 140) 47 Screw 6 -Lockwasher 26 Jet 48 Rod, choke 7 Nut 27 Strainer 49 Choke Lever and Collar Assembly 7AFilter 28 Lever, pump 50 Choke Shaft Assembly 7B Spring 29 Screw 51 Valve, choke 8 9 • 10 11 12 13 14 15 Gasket Float Assembly Pin, hinge Inlet Needle and Seat Assembly Gasket Strainer Float Bowl Assembly Venturi Cluster Assembly 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 Pump Shaft and Lever Assembly Rod, pump Clip, retainer Pump Assembly Clip, retainer Spring, pump return Ball, check Gasket 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 Screw Choke Housing Assembly Gasket Screw Lever Assembly Screw Choke Piston Pin 16 17 18 Gasket Screw Gasket 38 39 40 Throttle Body Assembly Idle Adjusting Needle Spring 60 6 1 62 Plug, ball Welch Plug Plate, baffle 19 Screw 41 Idle Stop Screw 63 Gasket 20 -Lockwasher 42 Clip 64 Stat Cover and Coil Assembly 65 Screw 66 Retainer 273R1 4B-12 - FUEL SYSTEMS Figure 3. "2GC" Carburetor Assembly FUEL SYSTEMS -48-13 273R1 3. Remove pump rod by removing retaining clips. 4. Remove idle cam attaching screw. Remove choke rod and idle cam as an assembly. 5. Remove air horn attaching screws and carefully remove air horn from float bowl by lifting upward easily. (Figure 4) Figure 4. Removing Air Horn from Float Bowl DISASSEMBLY AIR HORN DISASSEMBLY (Figure 3) 1. Place air horn inverted on bench. Remove float hinge pin and lift float assembly from cover. Float needle may be removed from float. (Figure 5) 2. Remove air horn gasket. Figure 7. Freeing Choke Piston 3. Remove float needle seat, fiber gasket (and needle seat screen on earhr models). 4. Remove power piston assembly (excluded on "120", Figure 5). 5. Remove retainer on pump plunger shaft and remove plunger assembly from pump arm. Remove pump lever and shaft by loosening set screw on inner arm and removing outer lever and shaft. (Figure 6) 6. Remove screw, which secures choke piston linkage to choke shaft, and remove choke piston and linkage. (Figure 7) 7. Remove 2 choke housing attaching screws. Choke housing and gasket now may be removed from air horn. (Figure 8) NOTE: On seme "2CC" models, choke piston and choke housing can be removed without carburetor air horn. 8. DO NOT remove choke valve and shaft, unless essential for repair purposes. <-----Figure 6. Loosening Set Screw 273R1 Figure 5. Float Assembly and Power Piston 4B-14 - FUEL SYSTEMS Figure 8. Removing Choke Housing 9- Remove 2 choke valve retaining screws (file off staked ends). Remove choke valve. FLOAT BOWL DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove pump plunger return spring (and check ball on later models) from pump well. 2. Remove pump inlet screen on later models. 3. Remove main metering jets. (Figure 9) 4. Remove power piston check valve and gasket (excluded on "120", Figure 9). 5. Remove 3 attaching screws on top of venturi cluster, then remove cluster and gasket. Center cluster screw has smooth shank and fiber gasket for accelerator pump fuel bv-pass. 6. Remove discharge ball spring T-shaped retainer with a pair of long nose pliers. Remove pump discharge spring and steel discharge bah. (Figure 10) 7. invert carburetor and remove 3 throttle body to bowl attaching screws. Remove throttle body and throttle body to bowl gasket. THROTTLE BODY DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove idle mixture adjusting needles and springs. 2. Remove fast and slow screws from throttle lever, if replacement is necessary. CLEANING a Dirt, gum, water or carbon contamination in or on exterior moving parts of carburetor often are responsible for unsatisfactory performance. For this reason, efficient carburetion depends upon careful cleaning and inspection while servicing. 1. Thoroughly clean carburetor castings and metal parts in fresh cleaning solvent. CAUTION: Never immerse choke stat cover and pump plunger in carburetor cleaner. Wash pump plunger in clean Stoddard solvent or equivalent. 273R1 No other disassembly of throttle body is needed. Never remove throttle valves, as idle and spark holes are drilled in direct relation to location of throttle valves. Removal of throttle valves will upset this location. Throttle body is serviced as a complete unit with throttle valves intact. Figure 9. Main Metering Jets Figure 10. Removing Pump Discharge Spring Retainer d INSPECTION 2. Blow all passages in castings dry with compressed air and blow off all parts until they are dry. Make sure all jets and passages are clean. Do not use wires or drills for cleaning fuel passages or air bleeds. 3. Check all parts for wear. If wear is noted, replace defective parts. Note especially the following: a. Check float needle and seat for wear. If worn, replace assembly. b. Check float hinge for wear and float for dents ar.d distortion. Check floats for fuel leaks by shaking. c. Check throttle and choke shaft bores for wear and out-of-round in air horn casting and throttle body. FUEL SYSTEMS - 4B-15 d. Inspect idle adjusting needles for burrs or grooves 4. Inspect gaskets for hard or brittle appearance or for and misalignment. Replace if defective. torn or distorted edges. Replace, if any such condition e. Replace idle can, if wear is noted, as wear may is noted. alter set idle speed during choke operation. 5. Check filter screens for dirt or lint. Clean and replace f. Replace pump plunger leather, if damaged or worn. if distorted or plugged. g. Inspect pump wel! in bowl for wear. 6. Replace any parts that may be loose or damaged in cluster casting. REASSEMBLY THROTTLE BODY REASSEMBLY I. Screw idle mixture adjusting needles and springs into throttle body until finger-tight. Back out screw 1% turns as a temporary idle adjustment. CAUTION: Do not force idle needle against seat, or damage may result. 2. Install fast and slow idle screws and springs in throttle lever, if removed. Invert bowl, place new throttle body gasket on bowl and install throttle body on bowl. 3. Install throttle body to bowl attaching screws and tighten evenly and securely. Make sure that screw holes in gasket line up with screw holes in throttle body. FLOAT BOWL REASSEMBLY 1. Drop pump discharge check ball (steel) into discharge hole. Replace spring and T-shaped retainer. 2. Replace venturi cluster and gasket. Install cluster screws and tighten evenly and securely. Make sure that center screw is fitted with red fibre gasket. (Figure 11) 3. Replace main metering jets. 4. Place gasket on power piston check valve and install check valve (excluded on "120", Figure 9). AIR HORN REASSEMBLY 1. Place new choke housing gasket in position on air horn and install c'noke housing with 2 attaching screws tightened evenly and securely. 2. Assemble choke piston to choke shaft and link assembly, retaining with piston pin. Piston pin and flat section on side of chokehorn. (Figure 13) 3. Install choke shaft intountil it enters choke 4. Install choke valve onfacing up. Install 2 piston should face toward air air horn, rotating choke piston piston bore in choke housing. choke shaft with letters "RP " choke valve retaining screws, but do not Lighten securely until choke valve is centered. NO TE: Center choke valve on choke shaft by installing choke lever and collar assembly and trip lever. Maintain .020" (.51mm) clearance between choke lever and air horn casting. Tighten choke valve screw and stake lightly in place. Figure 12. Pump Return Spring Installed 01543 5. Install outer pump lever and inner pump arm to bowl cover and tighten set screw. 6. Attach pump plunger assembly to inner arm with pump shaft pointing inward and install horseshoe retainer. (Figure 14) 7. Install screen on float needle seat (on early models) and assemble float needle seat and gasket to air horn. Tighten securely. 8. Install air horn gasket on air horn. 9. Install power piston assembly (excluded on "120", Figure 5). Peen air horn housing around power piston to retain piston in housing. Figure 11. Center Screw and Gasket 5. Install pump inlet screen and inlet check ball on later models. Install pump return spring and center spring in well by pressing downward with finger. (Figure 12) 43-16 -FUEL SYSTEMS 273R1 10. Attach float needle to float, carefully position float and insert hinge pin. 11. Adjust float as outlined in "Adjustments", following. 12. Place air horn on float bowl, making sure that accelerator pump plunger is positioned and will move freely. Lower cover gently straight down to ensure proper installation. 13. Install and tighten air horn screws evenly and securely. 14. Install accelerator pump rod and retainers. Figure 14. Attaching Pump Plunger Figure 13. Positioning Piston CHOKE REASSEMBLY 1. Place baffle plate and choke stat cover gasket into position and install choke stat cover. Rotate cover until correct index marking is aligned. Attach 3 retainers and screws to choke housing and tighten securely. 2. Install choke rod in idle cam and choke counterweight lever. Install idle cam and choke rod as assembly. 3. Attach idle cam to bowl (with letters "RP " facing outward) and choke lever to air horn (with tang facing outward). (Figure 15) Figure 15. Attaching Idle Cam INSTALLATION 1. Throttle flange body and intake manifold gasket sur-5. Install throttle rod and return spring. faces must be clean. 6. Install flame arrestor. 2. Install new gasket and carburetor. 3. Install 4 nuts and tighten evenly. 7. Adjust idle speed and mixture as outlined in "Adjust 4. Install choke heat tube and fuel line. ments", following. ADJUSTMENTS IDLE SPEED and MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS 2. With a thoroughly warmed-up engine, check that choke is fully off (open). NOTE: Carburetor idle mixture screws have a combina-3. Start engine and allow to idle. Adjust idle speed screw tion 1/4" hexagon and screwdriver slot to ease adjust-(Figure 16) to 475 RPM. ment. 4. Adjust each idle mixture screw (Figure 16) separately to give peak vacuum and RPM indications on tachometer 1 .^Connect tachometer and vacuum gauge to engine. and vacuum gauge. FUEL SYSTEMS - 48-17 273R1 NOTE: Make approximate idle mixture adjustment by setting idle mixture screws lean to moderate rough idle, which will give a slight vacuum and speed loss, then back screws out (enrich) !4-turn. IMPORTANT: Do not turn idle mixture screws tightly against stop, or needle seat will be damaged. 5. Shut off engine and remove tachometer and vacuum gauge. 6. Test boat to check performance. PUMP ROD ADJUSTMENT 1. Back off idle screw until throttle valves are completely closed. 2. While holding throttle valves closed, check distant' 1-7/32" (5.56mm) from top of air horn to top of pump rod with float gauge, as shown in Figure 18. CO' D Figure 16. Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustment FLOAT LEVER and DROP ADJUSTMENTS 1. Remove bowl cover with gasket from carburetor as described under "Disassembly", preceding. 2. Invert cover on a flat surface. Distance from air horn gasket to toe of float at sharp edge of seam should be 5/8" (16mm). Bend float hinge arm as required. 3. Hold bowl in upright position and measure distance (1-29/32" [48.6mm]) from gasket to bottom of float, as shown in Figure 17. Bend tang at end of float hinge arm to obtain correct drop and recheck both settings after this adjustment. 4. Install bowl cover as outlined under "Reassembly". 5. Readjust idle mixture. Figure 17. Float Drop Adjustment 4B-18- FUEL SYSTEMS Figure 18. Pump Rod Alignment 3. Leg of gauge marked "Pump" should just touch top of pump rod. 4. Bend accelerator pump rod carefully to obtain correct adjustment. AUTOMATIC CHOKE ADJUSTMENT Normal setting of choke is such that scribed mark on cover is in line with long case mark on choke housing casting. CHOKE ROD ADJUSTMENT No adjustment of fast idle speed is provided. Figure 19. Unloader Adjustment UNLOADER ADJUSTMENT Check and make any necessary correction of unload adjustment as follows: 1. Place throttle in wide-open position. 2. Using .160" gauge, see if large end of gauge just slides freely between upper edge of chokc valve and bore of carburetor. (Figure 19) 3. If necessary, bend tang of throttle lever to obtain necessary clearance. 372 RI MODEL 4GC CARBURETOR DESCRIPTION Model 4GC carburetor is a 4-bore, down-draft type which provides the advantage of two 2-bore carburetors in one unit. Carburetor is divided into a primary side and a secondary side. Primary side controls metering to engine throughout idle and part throttle range. Secondary side is a supplementary 2-bore carburetor which feeds extra air and fuel to engine when needed for power requirements. The 4-bore carburetor has a concentric float bowl which allows correct fuel level to be maintained during cornering. The major portion of calibrated metering parts are contained in venturi clusters (located in float bowl) and may be serviced by removing air horn assembly. Idle tubes and main discharge nozzles are pressed into venturi cluster and need not be serviced separately. Power re strictions and pump jets are pressed in, making individual replacement unnecessary. Figure 1. 4GC Carburetor PRECAUTIONS 01547 Before making carburetor adjustments, be sure that ting temperature (at least 15 minutes), or carburetor miscarburetor- to-manifold and manifold-to-cylinder head bolts alignment will occur. are tight (to prevent air leaks). Warm up engine to opera- Refer to troubleshooting chart in preceding. 1. Remove flame arrestor. TROUBLESHOOTING 'B" and "BC" section, NOTE: Refer to "Specifications' Section 8 for current specifications. REMOVAL 2. Disconnect fuel line and choke heat tube. 3. Disconnect throttle rod at carburetor and remove throttle return spring. 4. Remove 4 nuts and washers which attach carburetor to manifold. 5. Lift carburetor off manifold. 6. Remove and discard carburetor to manifold gasket. DISASSEMBLY CHOKE ASSEMBLY 1. Mount carburetor on suitable holding fixture. 2. Disconnect intermediate choke rod at upper end. 3. Remove 3 choke cover attaching screws and retainers, then remove choke cover, gasket and coil assembly from carburetor. (Figure 4) 4. Carefully lift baffle plate from choke housing. 5. Remove choke housing attaching screws and remove choke housing from bowl. 6. Remove screw, which secures choke linkage to choke shaft, then remove piston, linkage and shaft. BOWL COVER 1. Remove gasoline inlet fitting and inlet screen. 2. Unhook spring clip from upper end of pump rod and remove rod and clip from pump lever. 3. Remove small retainer screw, which holds trip lever to choke shaft, then remove trip lever. 4. Remove 2 choke valve retaining screws and slide choke valve from shaft. Discard retaining screws. 5. Remove 13 bowl cover-to-carburetor body attaching screws. 6. Carefully lift bowl cover straight up until float is clear of carburetor body. 7. Invert bowl cover and remove hinge pin and spring from primary float, then lift float and needle from air horn. Mark float assembly "primary" to prevent unnecessary bending during assembly. 8. Remove primary float needle seat with a wide blade screwdriver. Remove seat gasket and strainer. NOTE: Float needle and seat are factory-matched and must be installed in mated pairs. Never mix float needle and seats during cleaning or replacement. FUEL SYSTEMS - 4B- 19 2 Float Assembly 16 Screw 30 Clip, pump shaft and lever 3 Pin, hinge float to air horn 17 Plate, baffle choke housing 31 Rod, pump 4 Spring, torsion float 18 Gasket, stat cover and coil 32 Clip, retainer pump rod 5 Inlet Needle and Seat Ass'y 19 Stat Cover and Coil Ass'y 33 Rod, choke 6 Gasket, inlet needle and seat 20 Screw 34 Pin, hair choke rod 7 Strainer, inlet neecle and seat 21 Retainer 35 Choke Shaft Assembly 8 Choke Housing Assembly 22 Air Horn Assembly 36 Choke Shaft Assembly, intermediate 9 Gasket, choke housing 23 Gasket, air horn 37 Rod, choke shaft 10 Plug, ball choke "lousing 24 Screw, air horn to float bowl 38 Clip, choke shaft rod 11 Welch Plug, choke housing 25 Filter, air horn nut 39 Valve, choke choke shaft 12 Screw 26 Gasket, air horn filter nut 40 Screw 13 Lever Ass'y, choke piston 27 Nut, filter air horn 41 Choke Lever and Collar Ass'y 14 Choke Piston, choke housing 28 Boot, float bowl pump 42 Lever, trip choke shaft 15 Pin 29 Pump Shaft and Lever Ass'y 43 Screw, trip lever to choke shaft Figure 2. Basic Carburetor Bowl Cover Exploded View 4B-20 - FUEL SYSTEMS 273R1 Figure 3. Basic Bowl Components Exploded View FUEL SYSTEMS -4B- 378 9. Remove hinge pin and spring, float, needle seat, gasket and strainer from secondary side of bowl cover. Remove bowl cover gasket. 10. Remove power piston by depressing stem and allowing it to snap into position. 11. Remove horseshoe type retainer from pump plunger shaft. 12. Remove pump plunger by sliding shaft thru rubber seal. Place plunger in gasoline to prevent leather from drying out. Remove rubber seal from top side of bowl cover casting. Figure 4. Choke Housing CARBURETOR BODY 1. Perform procedure for disassembly of "Choke Assembly", preceding. 2. Remove 3 attaching screws and lockwashers from venturi cluster on primary side and carefully remove cluster and gasket. NOTE: Primary venturi cluster (Figure 5) contains pump discharge nozzles and idle tube, in addition to main well tubes, and always must be installed on primary side. Venturi clusters are serviced as an assembly. 3. Remove both main metering jets from primary (pump) side of carburetor body (Figure 6), then remove power valve and gasket. NOTE: Do not mix metering jets. Primary main metering jets are different from secondary side. 4. Remove 3 attaching screws and lockwashers from venturi cluster on secondary side and carefully remove cluster and gasket. 46-22 - FUEL SYSTEMS 01 557 Figure 5. Primary Venturi Cluster 5. Remove both main metering jets from secondary side of carburetor body. Keep separate from primary jets. 6. Remove pump return spring and aluminum ball from pump well. 7. Remove "-shaped pump discharge spring guide with needle nose pliers, then remove small spring and steel ball. (Figure 7) 8. Invert carburetor body (Figure 8) and remove 4 throttle flange-to-carburetor body attaching screws, then remove throttle flar.ge and gasket from carburetor body. NOTE: Do not immerse auxiliary throttle valves in cleaning solvent. Clean with WARM WATER and brush only. 9. Remove secondary auxiliary throttle valve assembly from carburetor body as shown in Figure 9. Figure 6. Bowl Parts Location Auxiliary Throttle Valves Figure 7. Removing Spring Guide Figure 8. Float Removal 01 560 Figure 10. Auxiliary Valves NOTE: Do not attempt further disassembly of auxiliary throttle valve assembly. (Figure 10) Spring tension is exactly calibrated, and any change will completely upset secondary side of carburetion operation, primarily during wide-open throttle. 10. Idle mixture needle screws may be removed for cleaning or replacement. Replace idle speed screw and spring, if necessary. NOTE: Throttle flange and levers are serviced as a unit. No further disassembly of throttle flange should be attempted, as it may be impossible to again reassemble throttle valves correctly in relation to vacuum and idle discharge orifices. THROTTLE FLANGE Other than removal of idle mixture screws, idle speed screw and their springs (Figure 11), no disassembly of throttle flange is necessary or should be attempted. Only these screws and their springs are serviced as replacement parts; remainder of throttle flange is serviced as a unit. Figure 9. Passage Identification (Body Flange) Figure 11. Throttle Flange FUEL SYSTEMS - 4B- 23 CLEANING and INSPECTION Dirt, gum, water or carbon contamination in carburetor or on exterior moving parts of a carburetor often are responsible for unsatisfactory performance. For this reason, efficient carburetion depends upon careful cleaning and inspection while servicing. 1. Thoroughly clean carburetor castings and all metal parts in clean carburetor cleaning solution. CAUTION: Composition and plastic parts (such as pump plunger and gaskets) should not be immersed in cleaner. 2. Blow out all passages in castings with compressed air and blow off all parts so that they are free of cleaner (be sure to follow instructions furnished with cleaning solution). IMPORTANT: Do not use drills or wire to clean out jets or passages, as this may enlarge orifices and seriously affect carburetor calibration. 3. Carefully inspect parts for wear and replace those which are worn. Check following specific points: a. Inspect choke piston and choke piston housing for carbon. If necessary to clean choke piston housing, remove welch plug in top of housing. Remove plug by piercing center with a small instrument and prying out. Exercise care so that casting will not be damaged when removing plug. Before installing new plug, remove carbon from piston cylinder slots. Carefully clean welch plug seat. See "Automatic Choke" under "Adjustments on the Engine", following. b. Remove carbon from throttle flange cores with sandpaper. (Never use emery cloth.) c. Inspect float needles and seats for wear. If worn, replace both needle and seat. d. Inspect float pins for excessive wear. e. Inspect floats for dents and excessive wear on lip or at hinge pin holes. Check for fluid inside floats by shaking. Replace float, if defective. f. Inspect throttle shafts for excessive wear (looseness or rattle in body flange casting). Replace flange assembly if worn excessively. g. Inspect idle mixture adjusting screws for burrs. Replace if burred. h. Inspect pump plunger assembly. If leather is not in good condition, replace plunger as a complete assembly. i. To check pump system: Pour (12.7mm) of gasoline into carburetor bowl. Take pump plunger from can of gasoline or kerosene and slide into pump cylinder. Place discharge check ball into body. Raise plunger and press lightly on shaft to expel air from pump passage. Hold discharge ball down firmly on its seat with a small, clean brass rod. Again raise plunger and press downward. No fuel should be emitted from either the intake or discharge passage. If any fuel is released from eigher passage, presence of dirt or a damaged check ball are indicated. Clean passage again and repeat test. If leakage still is present, replace check valve. j. Inspect upper and lower surfaces of carburetor body for damaged small sealing beads. Damaged beading may result in loss of air or fuel. k. Inspect holes in pump rocker arm, idle cam and throttle shaft lever. If holes are worn excessively or out-of-round and cause improper operation of carburetor, replace worn parts. 1. Inspect idle cam for excessive wear. If excessive wear is noted, replace cam to assure proper warm-up and choking periods. m. Check all filters for lint or dirt. Clean or replace as necessary. n. Check venturi clusters for loose or worn parts. If damage or looseness exists, replace cluster assembly. INLET FUEL FILTER REMOVAL and REPLACEMENT 3. Remove filter. 1. Remove fuel line connection at inlet fuel filter nut. 4. Clean screen by washing in solvent and blowing out. 2. Remove inlet fuel filter nut from carburetor inlet fuel 5. Reverse procedure for replacement. filter with a 3 4" box wrench or socket. REASSEMBLY CARBURETOR BODY center screw 9-to-10 ft. lbs. (1.24-to-1.38mkg) and 12 x 28 outer screws 3-to-4 ft. lbs. (,41-to-.55mkg) 1. Place carburetor body on holding stand in an inverted torque. position. 5. Install idle mixture screws and springs as they were 2. Install auxiliary throttle valve assembly (with calibrated removed from throttle flange. Back off screw l!4-turn spring operating pin) down into base of carburetor bodv. for initial adjustment. (Figure 12) 6. Place carburetor upright on stand and install steel 3. Position throttle flange gasket on carburetor body so pump outlet ball, spring and "T " shapec guide. (Fig that all holes are prooerly aligned. ure 14) 4. Place throttle flange on carburetor body and install 4 attaching screws (Figure 13), then tighten 3'8 " x 24 \OTE: Steel outlet ball is 3/16" (4.8mm) in diameter. 48-24 - FUEL SYSTEMS ^ ^ ^ 01563 Figure 12. Auxiliary Throttle Valves Installed •bhhh J* - 01564 Figure 13. Throttle Flange Attaching Screws Figure 14. Installing Steel Ba 7. Install aluminum ball and pump return spring in pump plunger cylinder. NOTE: Spring must be all-the-way down and seated. 8. Replace pump inlet screen, if removec in disassembly. 9. Install 2 primary main metering jets and power valve. 10. Install 2 secondary main metering jets. 11. Install secondary venturi cluster and gasket with 3 attaching screws and lockwashers. (Secondary venturi does not carry pump discharge nozzles.) (Figure 5) 12. Install primary venturi cluster and gasket with 3 attaching screws and lockwashers. 13. Install choke assembly in reverse order of disassembly previously outlined. BOWL COVER 1. Install power piston into bowl cover and stake very lightly to hold piston in place. 2. Assemble rubber seal on pump plunger shaft. 3. Position pump plunger with rubber seal in bowl cover by inserting small end thru from bottom. Lips of seal must be sealed on both sides of bowl cover. 4. Install needle seat gasket. 5. Install needle seat with wide-blade screwdriver. Repeat operation for other needle and seat. IMPORTANT: Install needle seats on same sides from which they were removed to match their respective float needle. 6. Install both float and needle and spring assemblies on bowl cover, retaining in place with hinge pin. NOTE: Float level and float drop adjustments are made independent of eac'aother and must be made at this stage of assembly procedure. All other adjustments are made after carburetor assembly has been completed. Float adjustments are outlined in this section under "Adjustments on Engine". CARBURETOR REASSEMBLY 1. Carefully guide cowl cover assembly on carburetor bodv, positioning pump plunger into well and closely observing alignment of floats and power piston shaft. 2. Align bowl cover and gasket to holes in body and start 13 bowl cover attaching screws. (Figure 15) 3. Tighten 3 inner attaching screws evenly and securely, then tighten remaining outside screws in same manner. 4. Assemble choke housing and gasket to bowl and tighten with 2 countersunk head screws. (Figure 16) 5. Install choke shaft and piston assembly by sliding shaft thru its bore, then carefully fit piston in bore of housing and install lever attaching screw. (Figure 16) 6. Rotate choke shaft clockwise to check for free movement of shaft and piston. (Figure 16) 7. Install choke valve shaft carefully, then slide choke valve thru shaft so letters "RP " on valve face up with valve closed. 8. Start 2 small brass choke valve to shaft attaching screws. Do not tighten. 9. Position choke counterweight over choke shaft. 10. Position choke trip lever over end of choke shaft. Be sure that small tab of trip lever is above choke 273R1 FUEL SYSTEMS - 4B-25 Figure 15. Air Horn Screw Tightening Sequence 01567 Figure 16. Choke Housing and Piston counterweight tang and keyed to choke shaft before tightening retaining screw. (Figure 17) 11. To provide correct fit of choke valve in bowl cover, push lightly on end of choke shaft to obtain a minimum clearance of .020". Gauge between trip lever and choke counterweight as shown in Figure 17. 12. While holding choke shaft in this position, tighten choke valve retaining screws. Check for free operation of choke valve in air horn. 13. Connect intermediate choke rod to choke valve shaft lever, then place baffle plate in position in choke housing. 1. Throttle flange body and intake manifoldfaces must be clean. 2. Install new gasket and carburetor. 3. Install 4 nuts and tighten evenly. 4. Install choke heat tube and fuel line. 4B-26 - FUEL SYSTEMS 14. Install thermostat cover and coil assembly, gasket and retaining screws(with retainers). Leave housing cover retaining screws loose enough to permit rotation of cover. 15. Rotate cover counterclockwise until coil engages tang 16. Set cover at one notch "Lean" mark . Tighten coil cover retaining screws. 17. Install upper end of pump rod (with spring retaining clip) on pump lever. Figure 17. Spacing Choke Valve 18. Perform operations in following sequence as outlined under "Adjustments on Engine". a. Pump rod adjustment. b. Choke rod adjustment. c. Choke unloader adjustment. d. Secondary throttle locknut adjustment. e. Secondary throttle contour-clearance adjustment. TEST before INSTALLATION on ENGINE 1. Fill carburetor bowl before installing carburetor to reduce strain on starting motor and battery and to reduce possibility of back-firing while attempting to start engine. 2. Clamp fuel pump to bench and. with a small supply of fuel and necessary fittings, fill carburetor and check operation of float and intake needle and seat. 3. Operate throttle several times and check discharge from pump jets before installing carburetor. INSTALLATION gasket sur-5. Install throttle rod and return spring. 6. Install flame arrestor. 7. Adjust idle speed and mixture as outlined in "Adjustments on Engine", following. 8. Adjust secondary throttle valve lock spring as described in "Adjustments", following. 273R1 ADJUSTMENTS on ENGINE Complete following adjustments without removing buretor from engine and in following sequence: 1. Idle speed and m:xture adjustment. 2. Float level and drop adjustment. 3. Pump rod adjustment. 4. Automatic choke adjustment. 5. Choke rod adjustment. 6. Choke unloader adjustment. 7. Secondary throttle lockout adjustment. 8. Secondary throttle contour-clearance adjustment. NOTE: No adjustment of fast idle speed is provided. IDLE SPEED and MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS NOTE: Always make idle mixture adjustment with flame arrestor installed. 1. Connect tachometer to engine. 2. With a thoroughly warmed-up engine, check that choke is fully off (open) and carburetor is on slow idle. 3. Start engine and allow to idle. Adjust idle speed screw- to 500 RPM. 4. Adjust each idle mixture screw separately to give peak RPM indications on tachometer. NOTE: Approximate mixture adjustment can be accomplished by setting idle mixture screws lean to a moderate-rough idle, which will give a slight speed loss, then back screws out (enrich) M-turn. 5. Shut off engine and remove tachometer. FLOAT LEVEL and DROP ADJUSTMENTS 1. Remove bowl cover with gasket from carburetor as outlined under "Disassembly", preceding. 2. Invert air horn with gasket in place. Distance from gasket surface to top heels of primary floats is 1-3/8" (34.9mm). Distance from gasket surface tc top heels of secondary floats is 1-11/32" (34.1mm). Bend float arm to adjust. (Figure 18) 3. With air horn still inverted and gasket in place, distance from gasket to center of dimple at primary float toe is 11 16" (17.5mm) (Figure 19) Distance from gasket to center of dimple at secondary float is 9/16" (14.3mm). Hold float arm and bend toe of float to adjust. (Figure 19) Recheck float head adjustment, if toe adjustment is necessary. 4. Hold air horn upright, and distance from gasket to center of dimples on both secondary and primary should be 1-3/8" (34.9mm). Bend float tang to ad just. (Figure 20) NOTE: "D" or round pontoon type floats are measured to lowest point. 5. Center floats in cut-out sections of gasket, and sides of floats must be parallel with adjacent edges of gasket. Bend float arms to adjust. (F igure 21; 6. Install bowl cover as outlined in "Reassembly", preceding. Figure 21. Float Adjustment FUEL SYSTEMS - 4B- 378 PUMP ROD ADJUSTMENT 1. Back off idle screw and allow primary valves to close. 2. Distance from top of air horn next to pump plunger to bottom plunger shaft should be 1-1/32" (26.2mm). Bend pump rod to adjust. (Figure 22) 3. Readjust idle to 500 RPM. Figure 22. Checking and Adjusting Pump Rod AUTOMATIC CHOKE ADJUSTMENT Normal setting of choke is such that scribed index mark on cover is in line with long cast mark on choke housing. INTERMEDIATE CHOKE ROD ADJUSTMENT 1. With choke cover and baffle removed, hold choke valve closed, push lightly on end of choke piston to remove all lash in linkage, then check that choke piston is flush with end of sleeve, as shown in Figure 23. 2. Bend intermediate choke rod, if necessary, to correctly position the choke piston. 3. Install choke baffle and cover. Figure 23. Intermediate Choke Rod Adjustment CHOKE ROD ADJUSTMENT No adjustment necessary, except to mak e sure that idle screw contacts cam when choke valve is completely open or closed. If screw drops off cam in either choke valve position, bend choke rod to position cam correctly. Figure 24. Choke Rod Adjustment CHOKE UNLOADER ADJUSTMENT 1. With choke trip lever contacting choke counterweight lever, hold throttle valve in wide open position. 2. There should be a clearance of .120" (3.05mm) between top of choke valve and dividing wall of air horn. (Figure 25) Bend tang on fast idle cam to correct adjustment. Figure 25. Choke Unloader Adjustment SECONDARY THROTTLE LOCKOUT ADJUSTMENT 1. With choke valve closed so that secondary lockout tang is in fast idle cam slot, check clearance (.015" Q.38mm~) between fast idle cam and tang. (Figure 26) 2. Bend tang horizontally. SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTOUR CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT 1. With choke valve held wide open and fast idle cam and secondary lockout lever positioned as shown in Figure 27, clearance between cam and tang should be .110" (2.8mm). 2. Bend tang vertically to adjust. 4B-28 - FUEL SYSTEMS 273R1 Figure 26. Secondary Lockout Adjustment Figure 27. Secondary Contour Clearance Adjustment SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE LOCK SPRING ADJUSTMENT Make this adjustment to ensure a positive closing of secondary throttle valves on "Idle". Adjustment of this U-shaped spring establishes tension against secondary operating lever, holding secondary throttle valves pos itively closed. (Figure 28) Following is adjustment procedure. This is an on-the-engine adjustment only. 1. Adjust carburetor idle speed and mixture (be sure secondary valves are completely closed). (Figure 29) 2. Shut off engine and place .050" feeler gauge between idle screw and idle cam as shown. (Figure 28) 3. Measure clearance (.025" H6.35mm~) between secondary lock spring and secondary throttle operating lever. Bend lock spring to adjust. Figure 28. Secondary Throttle Lock Spring Adjustment Figure 29. Idle Mixture Screws FUEL SYSTEMS - 43-29 570 HOLLEY MODEL 4160, 6407 and 6576 CARBURETORS DESCRIPTION Holley Models 4160, 6407 and 6576 are 4 venturi downdraft carburetors. The primary stage supplies fuel-air mixture throughout the entire range of operation, and the secondary stage operates when a greater quantity of fuel-air mixture is required. Both sides or stages of the carburetor contain a fuel bowl, fuel inlet valve, float and metering block. In addition, the primary side includes the accelerator pump and air horn and choke system. All Venturis include a booster venturi and a main discharge nozzle built into the booster venturi. The carburetor utilizes 4 metering systems: Idle system, main metering system, power enrichment system and accelerator pump system. Also, there are float systems, a choke system and a secondary operation system. Figure 1. Holley Carburetor PRECAUTIONS Before making carburetor adjustments, be sure that car-occur if engine is not warmed to operating temperature buretor-to-manifold and manifold-to-cylinder head bolts are prior to making adjustments. Allow engine to run at tight to prevent air leaks. Carburetor misadjustment will least 15 minutes: TROUBLESHOOTING Refer to troubleshooting chart in "B " and "BC " section. NOTE: Refer to 'Specifications" section for current specifications. REMOVAL 1. Remove flame arrestor assembly and mounting gasket. could cause a fire. Disconnect fuel inlet hose from carburetor ar.d discard 2. Remove 4 carburetor retaining nuts. Remove carburetor retaining clamp. Use care to prevent fuel spillage that and mounting p-asket. 273R1 FUEL SYSTEMS - 43-31 Figure 2. Holley Carburetor Exploded View 4B-32 -FUEL SYSTEMS 273R1 Seal 97 Idle Adjusting Needle 98 Primary Metering Block Gosket 99 Power Valve Gosket 100 Power Valve 101 Gosket 102 Secondary Plote 103 Metering Body Gasket 104 Secondary Metering Body 105 Screw, Clutch 106 Retoiner 107 "0 " Ring Seal 108 Fuel Line 109 Spring 110 Float 111 "0 " Ring Seal 112 Baffle Plate 113 Secondory Fuel Bowl 114 Figure 3. Holley Carburetor Exploded View Screw Gasket Gasket Fuel Level Sight Plug "0 " Ring Seal Fuel Inlet Needle and Scat Fuel Level Adjusting Nut Gasket Lock Screw FUEL SYSTEMS - 4B- 378 79 Retainer 88 80 Float Spring 89 81 Primary Fuel Bowl Gasket 90 82 Idle Adjusting Needle 91 83 Moin Jet 92 84 Seal 93 35 Baffle Plate 94 86 Main Jet 95 87 Primary Metering Bloclc 96 DISASSEMBLY To facilitate working on carburetor and to prevent damage to throttle plates, install carburetor legs on base. If legs are unavailable, install 4 bolts (about 2%" Q57.2mm[] long of correct diameter) and 8 nuts on carburetor base. Use separate container for component parts of various assemblies for easier cleaning, inspection and assembly. Following is a step-by-step sequence of operations for completely overhauling the carburetor. However, certain carburetor components mav be serviced without a complete disassembly. For complete carburetor overhaul, follow all steps. For partial overhaul or to install a new gasket kit, follow only the applicable steps. Refer to Figures 2 and 3 for identification of parts used on Holley Carburetor. PRIMARY FUEL BOWL and METERING BLOCK DISASSEMBLY Refer to Figures 2 and 3 for correct location of fuel bowl parts. 1. Remove fuel bowl and gasket and metering block and gasket. Discard gaskets. 2. Remove fuel line tube and discard "0 " ring seal. Figure 6. Float Shaft Retainer Removal 11. Remove fuel inlet fitting and gasket. 12. In vert fuel bowl and remove accelerating pump cover, diaphragm and spring. Accelerating pump inlet ball check is not removable. SECONDARY FUEL BOWL and METERING BODY DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove fuel bowl. Using clutch-tvpe screwdriver, remove metering body, plate and gaskets. (Figure 7). 04912 Figure 4. Main Jet Removal 3. Remove balance tube, washer and "0 " ring seal. Discard "0 " ring seal. 4. Remove idle adjusting needles and gaskets. Discard gaskets. 5. Remove main jets with screwdriver. (Figure 4) 6. Remove power valve and gasket with socket wrench. (Figure 5) 7. Remove fuel level adustment lock screw and gasket. Turn adjusting nut counterclockwise and remove lock nut and gasket. Remove fuel inlet needle and seat assembly. Do not disassemble fuel inlet needle and seat. They are matched assemblies and are replaced as an assembly. 8. Remove float retainer with needle-nose pliers. (Figure 6) slide float off shaft. Remove spring from float. 9. Remove baffle plate from fuel bowl. 10. Remove fuel level sight plug and gasket. Figure 7. Secondcry Metering Body Removal 4B-34 - FUEL SYSTEMS 2. Disassemble fuel bowl by following Steps 7-thru-10 under "Primary Fuel Bow! and Metering Block Disassembly", immediately preceding. MAIN BODY DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove flame arrestor anchor stud and secondary diaphragm link retainer. 2. Invert carburetor and remove throttle body retaining screws and lockwashers. Lift off throttle body and discard throttle body gasket. 3. Remove choke rod retainer from choke housing shaft and lever assembly. Remove thermostatic spring housing and gasket, then remove choke housing and gaskets from main body. Remove choke housing shaft nut, lockwasher anc. spacer, then remove shaft and fast idle cam. Remove choke piston and lever assembly. Remove choke rod and seal from main body. If necessaiy, remove choke plate from choke shaft and slide Figure 8. Throttle Plate Removal shaft and lever out of air horn. Retaining screws are staked to choke shaft. If tips of screws are flared lever and fast idle cam lever retaining screws and excessively, file off flared portion to avoid damage washers. Remove levers. to threads in choke shaft. Be careful not to damage 3. If necessary, remove throttle stop screw and spring. choke shaft or venturi while filing screws. 4. If necessary to remove throttle plates, lightly scribe 4. Remove secondary diaprhagm housing and gasket from throttle plates along throttle shaft and mark each plate main body. Housing must be removed before cover can and its corresponding bore with a number or letter for be removed. Remove diaphragm housing cover, then proper installation. (Figure 8) Remove throttle plates. remove spring and diaphragm from housing. Retaining screws are staked to throttle shaft. If tips 5. Remove accelerating pump discharge nozzle screw and of screws are flared excessively, file off flared por lift pump discharge nozzle and gaskets out of main tion to avoid thread damage in throttle shaft. Be care- body. Invert main body to allow accelerating pump dis ful not to damage throttle shaft or venturi while filing charge needle to drop out into hand. screws. 5. Remove fast idle cam lever. Remove primary throttle THROTTLE BODY DISASSEMBLY shaft return spring from notch on throttle shaft lever. 1. Remove accelerating pump operating lever retainer. (Figure 2) Slide primary throttle lever and shaft as2. Remove secondary throttle connecting rod retainers sembly out of throttle body. Remove accelerating pump and connecting rod. Remove secondary diaphragm cam. Slide secondary throttle shaft out of main body. CLEANING an d INSPECTION 1. Clean carburetor in a cold immersion-tvpe cleaner, 3. Inspect idle mixture needles for damage. such as Carbon-X (X-55) or its equivalent. 4. Examine inlet needle and seat for wear. If worn, replace with new inlet needle and seat assembly. 5. Inspect upper and lower surfaces of carburetor cast- CAUTION: Any rubber parts, plastic parts, dia ings for damage. phragms and pump plungers should not be immersed 6. Inspect holes in levers for excessive wear or out-ofin carburetor cleaner. Delrin cam on air valve round condition. If worn, replace levers. shaft will withstand normal cleaning in carburetor 7. Examine fast idle cam for wear or damage. cleaner. 8. Check air valve for binding condition. If air valve is damaged, replace air horn assembly. 2. Blow out all passages in castings with compressed air. 9. Check all throttle levers and valves for binds or other DO NOT pass drills thru jets or passages. damage. FUEL SYSTEMS - 4B-35 DISASSEMBLY Make sure that all ho.es in new gaskets are properly punched and that no foreign material adheres to gaskets. Be certain that accelerating pump and secondary operating diaphragms are not cut or torn. Carburetor assembly is shown in Figures 2 and 3. THROTTLE BODY REASSEMBLY Refer to Figure 9 for correct location of parts. 1. If secondary throttle plates are removed, slide shaft into throttle body. Refer to lines scribed on throttle plates, then install plates in proper location with screws snug but not tight. Close throttle plates and hold throttle body up to the light. Little or no light should be visible between throttle plates and throttle bores. If throttle plates are properly installed and no binding exists when throttle shaft is rotated, tighten throttle plate screws. Stake screws by supporting shaft and plates on block of wood or soft metal bar to prevent shaft from bending. Refer to "Adjustments" for correct adjustment, of secondary throttle plates. 2. Install secondary diaphram lever, lockwasher and screw. 3. If primary throttle plates were removed, place accelerating pump cam on primary throttle shaft. Place end of throttle connecting rod with smallest bend in position in primary throttle lever. Slide throttle shaft into throttle body, guiding throttle connecting rod so that other end fits into secondary throttle lever. Figure 9. Throttle Lever and Shaft Assembly Installation 4. Position primary throttle return spring so that small tang fits into slot in tnrottle lever and long tang rests against throttle body stop. (Figure 9) 5. Secure end of connecting rod with pin retainer. 6. Install primary throttle plates with same procedures used for secondary throttle plates. 7. Install fast idle cam lever, lockwasher and screw. 8. Install throttle stop screw and spring. 9. Install accelerating pump operating lever and retainer. 4B-36 - FUEL SYSTEMS Figure 10. Accelerating Pump Discharge Assembly MAIN BODY REASSEMBLY 1. Drop accelerator pump discharge needle into its well. (Figure 10) Lightly seat needle with brass drift and hammer. Position accelerating pump nozzle and gaskets in main body and install retaining screw. 2. Secondary diaphragm housing must be installed before choke housing. Position secondary diaphragm in housing and place spring in cover. (Figure 2) Install cover and tighten retaining screws finger-tight. Pull diaphragm rod downward to maximum travel and tighten cover screws. Diaphragm housing must be removed from main body to install cover. 3. Place gasket on secondary vacuum passage opening on main body. Place diaphragm housing in oosition on main body and install lockwashers and retaining screws. 4. Position choke plate shaft in air horn and install choke plate in shaft. (Figure 2) Install rod seal on choke rod. Slide U-shaped end of choke plate rod thru opening in main body and insert rod end thru inner side of bore in choke lever. Rod end must face outward. Push rod seal into retaining grooves on underside of flame arrestor mounting flange. Position choke thermostat lever link and piston assembly in choke housing. Position fast idle cam assembly on choke housing and install choke housing shaft and lever assembly. (Figure 2) Position lever and piston assembly on choke housing shaft and lever assembly. Install spacer, lockwasher and nut. Place main body assembly on its side and position choke housing gaskets on main body. Insert choke rod in choke housing shaft lever as choke housing is placed into position on main body. Be sure that projection on choke rod is placed under fast idle cam so that cam will be lifted when choke plate is closed. Install choke housing lockwashers and screws. Install choke rod cotter pin with needle-nose pliers. Place thermostatic spring housing gasket into position on choke housing (engaging thermostatic spring on spring lever), then install housing, clamp and screws. Adjust thermostatic spring housing by aligning index mark on cover with mid-position mark on choke housing. 5. Invert main body and position throttle body gasket on main body. Place throttle body on main body so that fuel inlet fitting will be on same side as accelerating pump operating lever. Slide secondary diaphragm rod onto operating lever as throttle body is placed into position Install throttle body to main body screws and lockwashers. Secure secondary diaphragm rod with retainer. 6. Install flame arrestor anchor stud. PRIMARY FUEL BOWL and METERING BLOCK REASSEMBLY Refer to Figures 2 and 3 for correct location of fuel bowl parts. 1. Place accelerating pump diaphragm spring and diaphragm in accelerating pump chamber. Diaphragm must be positioned so that large end of lever disc will be against operating lever. Install cover and tighten retaining screws finger-tight. Make sure diaphragm is centered, then compress diaphragm with pump operating lever and tighten cover screws. After carburetor is assembled, refer to "Adjustment" for correct adjustment of accelerating pump, following. 2. Install gasket and fuel inlet fitting. 3. Install fuel level sight plug and gasket. 4. Slide baffle plate onto ridges in fuel bowl. 5. Install float spring on float and slide float onto shaft. Be sure that float spring is between ridges on boss on floor of fuel bowl. Install float retainer with needle- nose pliers. 6. Apply petroleum jelly to new "0 " ring seal and slide on fuel inlet needle and seat assemb.y. 7. Position fuel inlet needle and seat assembly in fuel bowl thru top of bowl. Position adjusting nut gasket and nut of fuel inlet needle and seat assembly. Align flat on ID of nut with flat on OD of fuel inlet needle and seat assembly- Install fuel level adjustment lock screw and gasket. 8. As a preliminary float adjustment, refer to "Adjustments", following, and perform "Float Level Adjustment (Dry)" procedure. 9. Install oower valve and gasket in metering block with socket wrench. (Figure 5) Be sure to install correct power valve. Refer to specifications for correct identification number (stamped on flat on base of valve). 10. Install jets in metering block with screwdriver. (Figure 4) 11. Install idle adjusting needles and new gaskets. Turn idle adj usting needles in until they just touch the seat, then back needles off the specified number of turns for a preliminary idle adjustment. 12. Position metering block gasket on dowels (located on back of metering block). Position metering block and gasket on main body. Position baffle plate (primary side only) and gasket on metering block. Place retaining screws and new compression gaskets in fuel bowl. Position bowl in place on metering block and tighten retaining screws. 13. Apply petroleum jelly to fuel line tube "0 " ring seal. Place seal against flange on one end of fuel line tube. Install this end of fuel line tube into recess in primary fuel bowl. SECONDARY FUEL BOWL and METERING BOWL REASSEMBLY 1. Assemble secondary' fuel bowl and perform float adjustment (dry) by following Steps 3-thru-8 under "Primary Fuel Bowl and Metering Block Reassembly", preceding in this section. 2. Slide metering body gasket (Figure 3) into position on main body. Position metering plate gasket, metering plate, gasket and metering body on main body and install retaining screws. (Figure 7) 3. Apply petroleum jelly to fuel line tube "0 " ring seal and position seal against flange on fuel line tube. Position fuel bowl on main body, guiding fuel line tube into recess in bowl. Install retaining screws with new compression gaskets. 4. Refer to "Adjustments", following, and perform accelerating pump lever, accelerating pump stroke and automatic choke adjustments. FUEL SYSTEMS - 4B- 37 INSTALLATION 1. Be sure all old gasket material is removed from manifold and carburetor mounting flanges. Place new carburetor mounting gasket on manifold. 2. Position carburetor on intake manifold. Connect choke heat wires to carburetor. Install carburetor retaining nuts and tighten evenly and alternately to specifications. 3. Tighten cho.. Insert choke rod in choke housing shaft lever as choke housing is placed into position on main body. Be sure that projection on choke rod is placed under fast idle cam so that cam will be lifted when choke plate is closed. Install choke rod cotter pin with needle-nose pliers. Place thermostatic spring housing gasket into position on choke housing (engaging thermostatic spring on spring lever), then install housing clamp and screws. Adjust thermostatic spring housing by aligning index mark on cover with mid-position mark on choke housing. 3. Invert main body and position throttle body gasket on main body. Place throttle body on main body so that fuel inlet fitting will be on same side as accelerating pump operating lever. Install throttle body to main body screws and lockwashers. 4. Install flame arrestor anchor stud. FUEL BOWL and METERING BLOCK REASSEMBLY Refer to Figures 2 and 3 for correct location of fuel bowl parts. I. Place accelerating pump diaphragm spring and diaphragm in accelerating pump chamber. Disphragm must be positioned so that large end of lever disc will be against operating lever. Install cover and tighten retaining screws finger-tight. Make sure that diaphragm is centered, then compress diaphragm with pump operating lever and tighten cover screws. After carburetor is assembled, refer to "Adjustment" for correct adjustment of accelerating pump, following. 2. Install gasket and fuel inlet fitting. 3. Install fuel level sight plug and gasket. 4. Slide baffle plate onto ridges in fuel bowl. 5. Install float spring on float and slide float onto shaft. Be sure that float spring is between ridges on boss on floor of fuel bowl. Install float retainer with needle-nose pliers. 6. Apply petroleum jelly to new "0 " ring seal and slide on fuel inlet needle and seat assembly. 7. Position fuel inlet needle and seat assembly in fuel bowl thru top of bowl. Position adjusting nut gasket and nut of fuel inlet needle and seat assembly. Align flat on ID of nut with flat on OD of fuel inlet needle and seat assembly. Install fuel level adjustment lockscrew and gasket. 8. As a preliminary float adjustment, refer to "Adjustments", following, and perform "Float Level Adjustment (Dry)" procedure. 9. Install power valve and gasket in metering block with socket wrench. (Figure 5) Be sure to install correct power valve. Refer to specifications for correct identification number (stamped on flat on base of valve). 10. Install jets in metering block with screwdriver. (Figure 4) 11. Install idle adjusting needles and new gaskets. Turn idle adjusting needles in until they just touch the seat, then back needles off the specified number of turns for a preliminary idle adjustment. 12. Position metering block gasket on dowels (located on back of metering block). Position metering block and gasket on main body, Position baffle plate and gasket on metering block. Place retaining screws and new compression gaskets in fuel bowl. Position bowl on metering block and tighten retaining screws. INSTALLATION 1. Be sure that ail old gasket material is removed from 3. Connect fuel line to float bowl. manifold and carburetor mounting flanges. Place new carburetor mounting gasket on manifold. 4. Adjust engine idle speed and idle fuel mixture. Refer to 2. Position carburetor on spacer block. Connect choke heat "Adjustments", following, for proper procedure. wires to carburetor, install carburetor retaining nuts and tighten evenly and alternately to specifications. 5. Install flame arrestor. ADJUSTMENTS Fuel level float adjustment (dry) is performed only as a bench adjustment. Preliminary idle fuel mixture and idle speed adjustments, automatic choke adjustment and accelerating pump lever and stroke, adjustments can be performed with carburetor on bench or installed on engine. Adjust Float Fuel level adjustment, carburetor linkage adjustment, idle fuel Parallel to mixture and idle speed adjustments are performed onlv with Bowl Floor carburetor installed on engine. Figure 10. Dry Float Level Adjustment 48-70 - FuEL SYSTEMS FLOAT LEVEL ADJUSTMENT (DRY) With float bowl upside down, adjust float parallel to bowl floor (Figure 10) by loosening loekscrew and turning adjusting nut. ACCELERATOR PUMP LEVER CLEARANCE 1. With throttle valves at wide open throttle and pump lever held down, insert a .015" minimum gauge between adjusting nut and operating lever. (Figure 11) 2. Adjust pump over-ride screw until correct clearance is obtained. NOTE: There must be no free movement of pump lever when throttle is at idle. Pump Over-ride Feeler Screw and Spring Gauge 06g05 Figure 11. Accelerator Pump Lever Clearance CHOKE UNLOADER ADJUSTMENT Choke unloader is a mechanical device to partially open choke at wide open throttle. Adjust as follows: 1. Hold throttle valves in wide open position, insert a 5/32" drill between upper edge of choke valve and inner wall of air horn. 2. Press finger lightly against choke control lever. A slight drag should be felt as drill is pulled out. (Figure 12) 3. To adjust, bend tab on kick-down lever until correct opening has been obtained. FLOAT LEVEL ADJUSTMENT (WET) 1. With flame arrestor removed and ignition "off", remove sight plug (Figure 13), then remove bowl lower attaching screw furthest from fuel inlet. (Figure 14) 2. Drain off fuel into a shallow pan, using care not to spill luel and create a fire hazard. 3. Reinstall fuel bow l screw. 4. With engine running, fuel level should be in line with threads at bottom of sight plug port (plus-or-minus 1/32" [.8mm] tolerance). 5. To correct fuel level, loosen loekscrew (Figure 15) and turn adjusting nut clockwise to lower fuel level and counterclockwise to raise fuel level (1/6-turn of adjusting nut equals approximately 1/16" [1.6mm] in fuel level). 6. After adjustment, tighten loekscrew. 7. Operate engine until fuel level is stablized. then recheck level at >iglit plug. Screw Figure 14. Removing Fuel Bowl Lower Screw 1171 FUEL SYSTEMS - 43-71 06904 5. First, set one of the 2 idle adjusting needles for highest steady manifold vacuum reading. If a vacuum gauge is not available, obtain smoothest-running, maximum idle speed by turning idle adjusting needle in until RPM begins to drop off, then backing needle off over "high spot" until RPM again drops off. Set idle adjusting needle halfway between 2 points for satisfactory idle mixture setting. Repeat procedure with other needle. Should these adjustments show an increase in idle RPM, reset idle speed screw to obtain specified idle RPM and again adjust idle adjusting needles. AUTOMATIC CHOKE ADJUSTMENT 1. Automatic choke is set accurately at factory to give best possible all-weather operation. To return choke to original setting, line up index mark with proper specification. 2. If, for some reason, a richer or leaner mixture during warmup period is desired, it can be obtained by rotating thermostat cover. Never set index mark on cover more than 2 graduations off specified settings. Figure 15. Adjusting Fuel Level 8. If necessary, repeat adjustment until proper fuel level is attained. 9. Replace sight piug. IDLE SPEED and MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT 1. Adjustment must be made with boat as level as possible. 2. Seat idle adjusting needles lightly and back each off a full turn, if there is doubt that this was not done during reassembly. (Figure 16) NOTE: When seating idle adjusting needle, care must be taken not to turn screw tight against seat, thus grooving tip of needle. If needle becomes grooved, a smooth idle cannot be obtained. 3. Start engine and allow operating temperature to reach normal. 4. After engine reaches normal operating temperature, adjust idle speed screw to idle engine at specified RP\1. Figure 16. Adjusting Idle Fuel Mixture 4B-72-FUEL SYSTEMS TABLE of CONTENTS Page Part A - Engine Mechanical General - . . . . . » 5A-1 Intake and Exhaust Manifold , 5A-1 Exhaust Water Shutter 5A-2 Rocker Arm Cover 5A-2 Valve Mechani sm • . 5A-2 Valve Adjustment 5A-2 Valve Lifters. 5A-3 Valve Stem and/or Valve Spring 5A-5 Cylinder Head Assemblies 5A-7 Cylinder Head Assemblies and Valve Conditioning . . ...................... 5A-7 Oil Pan 5A-11 Oil Pump 5A-11 Crankshaft Pulley 5A-13 Torsional Damper SA-13 Crankcose Front Cover 5A-14 Oil Seal (Front Cover) 5A-14 Flywheel and Coupler 5A-15 Oil Seal (Rear Main) 5A-16 Main Bearings 5A-17 Connecting Rod Bearings 5A-19 Connecting Rod and Piston Assemblies 5A-20 Piston Rings 5A-22 Crankshaft 5A-24 Camshaft 5A-25 Camshaft Bearings 5A-27 Cylinder Block 5A-29 Distributor Lower Bus hing 5A-30 Oil Nozzle Replacement 5A-31 Oil Filter Bypass Valve and Replacement 5A-31 Pert B - Engine Mechanical, In-Line 60-80-90 Removing Inner Transom Plate 5B-1 Intake Manifold -"60" and "90" 5B-1 Exhaust Manifold -"60" and "90" 5B-1 Intake/Exhaust Manifold - "80 " 5B-2 Rocker Arm Cover 5B-2 Valve Adjustment 5B-2 Rocker Arm Assemblies 5B-3 Valve Mechani sm 5B-3 Cylinder Head -"60" Model 5B-4 Cylinder Head - "80" and "90" 5B-5 Cylinder Head and Valve Reconditioning -,J60-80-90" 5B-6 Oil Pan 5B-9 Oil Pump -"60" 5B-9 Oil Pump - ''80" and "90" 5B-10 Piston and Connecting Rod 5B-12 Piston Rings 5B-14 Cylinder Liners 5B-15 Flywheel - "60 " 5B-16 Flywheel -"80" and "90" 5B-16 Crankshaft 5B-17 Bearing and Journal Inspection . . . . . . ...... 5B- 17 Main Bearing Clearance ............5B-18 Connecting Rod Bearing. . . , . . ......... . ..........5B-19 Crankshaft End Play ............5B-20 Rear Seal Replacement - ""60" 5B-20 Rear Seal Replacement - '"80" and -"90" ............... 5B-20 Crankshaft Front Flywheel and Alternator- 60" Only.......................5B-21 Cylinder Block Front Cover -"g60" . . ..... 5B-21 Cylinder Block Front Cover "80 " and "90 " ................5B-21 Chain Tensioner. ............................5B-22 Page Camshaft and Timing Chain - *60" . . . . 5B-22 Camshaft, Timing and Sprockets -"80" and "90" . . 5B-24 Camshaft Gear Replacement -"80" and -90" ... . 5B-25 Cylinder Block ............5B-25 PartC - Engine Mechanical, V-8 GM Tools 5C-1 General 5C-1 Rocker Arm Cover 5C-1 Exhaust Manifolds 5C-2 Valve Mechanism 5C-3 Hydraulic Valve Lifters 5C-5 Valve Stem Oil Seal and/or Valve Spring 5C-7 Cylinder Head 5C-8 Cylinder Head and Valve Conditioning 5C-9 Oil Pan 5C-14 Oil Pump 5C-15 Torsional Damper 5C-17 Crankcase Front Cover 5C-18 Flywheel 5C-19 Engine Coupling 5C-19 Oil Seal (Rear Main) 5C-19 Main Bearings 5C-21 Connecting Rod Bearings 5C-23 Connecting Rod and Piston Assemblies 5C-24 Crankshaft 5C-29 Timing Chain and/or Sprockets 5C-30 Camshaft 5C-31 Crankshaft Sprockets or Gears 5C-34 Camshaft Bearings 5C-35 Cylinder Block 5C-36 Part D Engine Mechanical, V-8 Ford Tools 5D-1 General 5D-1 Intake Manifold . .' 5D-1 Exhaust Manifolds 5D-2 Rocker Arm Cover 5D-3 Valve Clearance 5D-3 Va Ive Mechanism 5D-4 Hydraulic Valve Lifters 5D-4 Valve Spring, Retainer and Stem Seal Replacement . . 5D-6 Cylinder Head 5D-7 Oil Pan 5D-12 Oil Pump 5D-13 Flywheel 5D-15 Pistons and Connecting Rods 5D-16 Connecting Rods 5D-16 Pistons, Pins and Rings 5D-17 Crankshaft 5D-20 Main Bearings SD-24 Connecting Rod Bearings 5D-25 Main and Connecting Rod Bearing Inserts 5D-26 Torsional Damper 5D-27 Cylinder Block Front Cover and Front Seal 5D-27 Front Oil Seal Replacement 5D-28 Timing Chain, Sprockets and Fuel Pump Eccentric . . 5D-29 Camshaft 5D-31 Camshaft Bearing Replacement 5D-32 Camshaft Lobe Lift 5D-33 Camshaft End Play 5D-33 Cylinder Block 5D-34 Repairing Engine Casting 5D-35 Core Plug Replacement 5D-36 SECTION 5 - ENGINE PART A - ENGINE MECHANICAL, IN - LINE GM INDEX Page 4 and 6-Cylinder Models « . . • <> . . 5A-1 General 5A-1 Intake and Exhaust Manifold . 5A-1 Exhaust Water Shjtter 5A-2 Rocker Arm Cover 5A-2 Valve Mechanism 5A-2 Valve Adjustment 5A-2 Valve Lifters 5A-3 Valve Stem and/or Valve Spring 5A-5 Cylinder Head Assemblies 5A-7 Cylinder Head Assemblies and Valve Conditioning ... . 5A-7 Installation 5A-15 Oil Seal (Rear Main) . 5A-16 Main Bearings 5A-17 Connecting Rod Bearings 5A-19 Connecting Rod Piston Assemblies 5A-20 Piston Rings 5A-22 Crankshaft 5A-24 Camshaft. 5A-25 Camshaft Bearings 5A-27 Cylinder Block. 5A-29 Di stri butor Lower Bushing 5A-30 Oil Nozzle Replacement 5A-31 Oil Filter Bypass Valve and Replacement 5A-31 ENGINE MECHANICAL -4 and 6-CYLINDER MODELS GENERAL In-line engines with 153, 181, 194, 230, 250 and 292 cu. Cubic inch displacement of each MerCruiser model is in. displacements are covered in this section. listed below. Full pressure lubrication thru a full flow oil filter is furnished by a gear-type oil pump. Distributor, driven by Some Repairs, Listed in This Section, Must Be a helical gear on camshaft, drives oil pump. Main oil Completed with Engine Removed from Boat. gallery feeds oil thru drilled passages to camshaft and Engine Removal Depends Upon Type of Repair crankshaft to lubricate bearings. Main oil gallery also and Boat Design. Place Engine on Engine Stand feeds valve lifters which, thru push rods, feed individually- mounted rocker arms. for Major Repairs. MODEL NO. OF CYLINDERS DISPLACEMENT MerCruiser 1 1 0 4 153 Cu. In. MerCruiser 120 4 153 Cu. In. MerCruiser 140 4 181 Cu. In. MerCruiser 140 6 194 Cu. In. MerCruiser 150 6 230 Cu. In. MerCruiser 1 60 6 250 Cu. In. MerCruiser 165 6 250 Cu. In. MerCruiser 200 6 292 Cu. In. INTAKE and EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL 1. Disconnect exhaust hose. 2. Disconnect lines at carburetor. 3. Disconnect crankcase ventilation hose at rocker arm cover. 4. Remove manifold fasteners; remove manifold assembly and discard gaskets. 5. Check for cracks in manifold castings. CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Clean gasket material from all surfaces and wash parts in solvent. 2. Inspect all parts carefully. Machined surfaces must be clean and free of all marks of deep scratches, or water leaks may result. 3. Check water passages for sand, silt or foreign material. Passages must be clean for efficient cooling. 4 If more thorough inspection is desired, pipe plugs may be removed from exhaust manifold elbow and exhaust pipe elbow. INSTALLATION 1. Clean gasket surfaces on cylinder head and manifold. 2. Position new gasket on head and carefully install manifold in position, making sure gasket is in place. 3. Install fasteners and washers while holding manifold in place. 4. Tighten evenly and securely, starting in center and working out toward ends. NOTE: Vibration will occur if fasteners, which secure manifold to cylinder head, loosen from compression of manifold to head gasket. 5- Connect crankcase ventilation hose at rocker arm cover. 6. Connect lines and choke tube. 7. Replace exhaust hose. 8. Start engine, check for leaks and adjust carburetor idle speed and mixture. ENGINE - 5A-1 EXHAUST WATER SHUTTER If engine is equipped with exhaust shutter in exnaust tube, it may make a rattling noise at idle speed. This noise is caused by a loose fit between shutter shaft and support brackets and can be corrected as follows: 1. Loosen hose clamps which fasten exhaust bellows to exhaust tube. 2. Remove screws, which fasten exhaust elbow to manifold, and remove elbow and bellows. Scrape gasket material from manifold and elbow. 3. Thoroughly clean area between shutter support brackets and exhaust tube with cleaning solvent and a small brush or pipe cleaner. 4 Fill entire area between support brackets and tube with Sealant (C-92-52238-1). Allow sealant to cure for 24 hours. 5. Reinstall elbow, using new gasket, and connect bellows. Tighten hose clamps securely. Figure 1. Sealant Application ROCKER ARM COVER REMOVAL install rocker arm cover and torque to specifications. 1. Disconnect crankcase ventilation hose at rocker arm NOTE: A crankcase vent baffle kit (B-45369A1) is cover. available for installation in valve cover of 153 cu. in. 2. Remove temperature wire from rocker arm cover clips. engines, Serial No. 2220847 and below. Installation of 3- Remove attaching bolts. this kit will eliminate possibility that crankcase oil 4. Remove rocker arm cover. will be carried over to carburetor via crankcase breather hose which extends from valve cover to INSTALLATION carburetor. 1. Clean gasket surfaces on cylinder head and rocker 2. Connect temperature wire at rocker arm cover clips, arm cover with degreaser, then, using a new gasket, 3. Connect crankcase ventilation hoses. VALVE MECHANISM REMOVAL balls are being installed, coat bearing surfaces of rock er arms and rocker arm balls with Molykote cr equivalent. 1. Remove rocker arm cover as outlined. 2. Remove rocker arm nuts, rocker arm balls, rocker 1. Install push rods. Be sure that push rods seat in arms and push rods. lifter socket. NOTE: Place rocker arms, rocker arm balls and push 2. Install rocker arms, rocker arm balls and rocker rods in a rack so that they may be reinstalled in arm nuts. Tighten rocker arm nuts until all lash is same location. eliminated. INSTALLATION 3. Install rocker arm cover as outlined. NOTE: Whenever new rocker arms and/or rocker arm 4. Adjust carburetor idle speed and mixture. VALVE ADJUSTMENT ENGINE STOPPED b. Crank engine until distributor rotor points to No. 1 cylinder position and breaker points are open. 1. Remove valve cover. Following valves can be adjusted with engine in 2. Adjust valves when lifter is on base circle of cam- N'o. 1 firing position. shaft lobe as follows: a. Mark distributor housing with chalk at No. 1 and No. 1 Cylinder—Exhaust and Intake No. 6 cylinder positions (plug wire), then disconnect No. 2 Cylinder—Intake plug wires at spark plugs and coil and remove No. 3 Cylinder—Exhaust distributor cap and plug wire assembly (if not No. 4 Cylinder—Intake previously done). No. 5 Cylinder—Exhaust SA-2 - ENGINE 570 c. Back out adjusting nut until lash is felt at push rod. then turn in adjusting nut until all lash is removed. This can be determined by checking push rod side plav while turning adjusting nut. (Figure 1) When plav is removed, turn adjusting nut in % additional turn (to center lifter plunger). d. Crank engine until distributor rotor points to No. 6 position and breaker points are open. Following valves can be adjusted with engine in No. 6 firing position: No. 2 Cylinder—Exhaust No. 3 Cylinder—Intake No. 4 Cylinder—Exhaust No. 5 Cylinder—Intake No. 6 Cylinder—Intake and Exhaust 3. Install distributor cap and spark plug wire assembly. 4. Install rocker arm cover and adjust carburetor. ENGINE RUNNING Following procedure, performed with engine running, should be completed only if readjustment is required. 1. After warming-up engine, remove valve cover and install new valve cover gasket on cylinder head to prevent oil from running out. 2. With engine running at idle, back off valve rocker arm nut until valve rocker arm starts to clatter. (Figure 1) 3- Turn rocker arm nut down slowly until clatter just stops. This is zero lash position. 4. Turn nut down 14 additional turn and pause 10 seconds until engine runs smoothly. Repeat additional % turns, VALVE Hvdraulic valve lifters seldom require attention. Lifters are simple in design, readjustments are not necessary and lifter servicing requires only that care and cleanliness be exercised in handling of parts. LOCATING NOISY LIFTERS Use a piece of garden hose approximately 4 ft. (1.22m) in length to locate a noisy valve lifter. Place one end of hose near end of each intake and exhaust valve with other end of hose to the ear. Sound, thus, is localized, making it easy to determine which lifter is at fault. Another method is to place a finger on face of valve spring retainer. If lifter is not functioning properly, a distinct shock will be felt when valve returns to its seat. General types of valve lifter noise are: 1. Hard Rapping Noise - Usually caused by plunger becoming tight in bore of lifter body to such an extent that return spring can no longer push plunger back up to working position. Probable causes are a. Excessive varnish or carbon deposit which causes abnormal stickiness. b. Galling or '"pickup" between plunger and bore of lifter body, usually caused bv an abrasive piece of dirt or metal wedging between plunger and lifter body. Figure 1. Valve Adjustment pausing 10 seconds each time, until nut has been turned down \ turn from zero lash position. NOTE: This % turn pre-load adjustment must be done slowly to allow lifter to adjust itself, thus preventing possibility of interference between inlet valve head and top of piston which might result in internal damage and/or bend push rods. Replace lifters. 5. Repeat Steps 2-3-4 to adjust other valves. 6. Install valve cover, using new gasket. LIFTERS 2. Moderate Rapping Noise - Probable causes are a. Excessively high leakdown rate. b. Leaky check valve seat. c. Improper adjustment. 3. General Noise Throughout Valve Train - This, in most cases, will be a definite indication of insufficient oil supply or improper adjustment. 4. Intermittent Clicking - Probable causes are a. A microscopic piece of dirt momentarily caught between ball seat and check valve ball. b. In rare cases, ball itself may be out-of-round or have a flat spot. c. Improper adjustment. In most cases, where noise exists in one or more lifters, all lifter units should be removed, disassembled, cleaned in a solvent, reassembled and reinstalled in engine. If dirt, varnish, carbon, etc, is shown to exist in one unit, it likely exists in all units. Thus, it would be only a matter of time before all lifters cause trouble. REMOVAL 1. Remove valve mechanism as outlined. 2. Mark distributor housing with chalk at each cylinder position (plug wire), then disconnect plug wires at spark plugs and coil and remove distributor cap and plug wire assembly. ENGINE - 5A-3 Figure 2. Hydrau ic Val ve Lifters 1 Lifter Body 5 Check Ball Retainer 2 Push Rod Seat 6 Push Rod Seat Retainer 3 Metering Valve (Lifter "A" ) 7 Plunger Inertia Valve (Lifter "B" ) 8 Check Ball Spring 4 Check Ball 9 Plunger Spring Figure 3. Removing Ball Check Valve 3. Crank engine until distributor rotor points to No. 1 position, then disconnect distributor primary lead at coil and remove distributor. 4. Remove push rod covers (discard gaskets). 5. Remove valve lifters. NOTE: Place valve lifters in a rack so they may be reinstalled in same location. SERVICING Two types of hydraulic lifters are used. Both types operate on same principle and are serviced basically in same manner. Complete lifter assemblies are interchangeable, but parts from one lifter are not interchangeable with another. Both lifters are easily identified by outside configuration of lifter body. Identify them as lifter "A " and lifter "B" . (Figure 2)' DISASSEMBLY 1. Hold plunger down with push rod and remove push rod seat retainer with blade of small screwdriver. 2. Remove push rod seat and metering valve (lifter "A" ) or push rod seat and inertia valve assembly (lifter "B").(Figure 2) 3. Remove plunger, ball check valve assembly and plunger spring. 4. Remove ball check valve and spring by prying ball retainer loose from plunger with blade of small screwdriver. (Figure 3) CLEANING and INSPECTION Thoroughly clean all parts in cleaning solvent and inspect parts carefully. If any parts are damaged or worn, entire lifter assembly should be replaced. If lifter body wall is scuffed or worn, inspect cylinder block lifter bore. If bottom of lifter is scuffed or worn, inspect camshaft lobe. If push rod seat is scuffed or worn, inspect push rod. NOTE: Do not remove inertia valve and retainer (lifter "B") (Figure 2) from push rod seat. To check valve, shake push rod seat and inertia valve assembly, and valve should move. REASSEMBLY 1. Place check ball on small hole in bottom of plunger. 2. Insert check ball spring on seat in ball retainer and place retainer over ball so that spring rests on ball. Carefully press retainer into position in plunger with blade of a small screwdriver. (Figure 4) 3. Place plunger spring over ball retainer and slide lifter body over spring and plunger, being careful that oil feed holes in lifter body and plunger line up. 4. Fill assembly with oil, then insert end of a 1/8 " drift pin into plunger and press down strongly. At this point, oil holes in lifter body and plunger assembly will be aligned. (Figure 5) CAUTION: Do not attempt to force or pump the plunger. 5A-4 - ENGINE 05060 470 VALVE STEM and/or VALVE SPRING 414 REPLACEMENT 1. Remove rocker arm cover as outlined. 2. Remove spark plug, rocker arm and push rod on cylinder(s) to be serviced. 3. Apply compressed air to spark plug hole to hold valves in place. NOTE: A tool to apply air to cylinder is available thru local jobbers or may be hand-made. To make this tool, chisel spark plug as shown in Figure 6, then drive porcelain out of plug by tapping center electrode against a hard block. Using a 3/8" pipe tap, cut threads in remaining portion of spark plug and assemble as shown in Figure 6. 4. Compress valve spring with Tool J-5892 and remove valve locks, valve cap. valve shield and valve spring. (Figure 7) 5. Insert a 1/16" drift pin thru both oil holes to hold plunger down against lifter spring tension. (Figure 5) NOTE: On lifter "B" (Figure 2), drift pin must not extend inside plunger. 6. Remove 1/8" drift pin and refill assembly with oil. 7. Install metering valve and push rod seat (lifter "A" ) or push rod seat and inertia valve assembly (lifter "B"). (Figure 2) 8. Install push rod seat retainer, press down on push rod seat and remove 1/16" drift pin from oil holes. Lifter now is completely assembled, filled with oil and ready for installation. NOTE: Before installing a new lifter, coat bottom of lifter with Mo'lykote or equivalent. 05022 Figure 4. Installing Ball Check Valve Figure 5. Assembling Hydraulic Lifters INSTALLATION 1. Install valve lifters. NOTE: Whenever new valve lifters are being installed, coat foot of valve lifters with Molykote or equivalent. 2. Install push rod covers, using new gaskets, and torque to specifications. 3. Install distributor, positioning rotor to No. 1 cylinder position, then connect primary lead at coil. 4. Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined. 5. Adjust ignition timing and carburetor idle speed and mixture. Figure 7. Compressing Valve Spring 5. Remove valve stem oil seal. 6. To replace, set valve spring, valve shield and valve cap in place. Close, coiled end of spring is installed against cylinder head. Compress spring with Tool J-5892 and install oil seal in lower groove of stem, making sure that seal is flat and not twisted. NOTE: A light coat of oil on seal will help prevent twisting. 7. Install valve locks and release compressor tool. Be sure that locks seat properly in upper groove of the stem. NOTE: Grease may be used to hold locks in place while releasing compressor tool. 8. Install spark plug, using a new gasket, and torque to specifications. 9. Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined. 5A-6 - ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLIES REMOVAL 1. Remove manifold assembly as outlined. 2. Remove valve mechanism as outlined. 3. Drain water from cylinder block and disconnect wires from temperature sending units. 4. Disconnect upper cooling hose at water outlet housing. 5. Remove coil. 6. Remove cylinder head bolts, cylinder head and gasket. Place cylinder head on 2 blocks of wood to prevent damage. INSTALLATION CAUTION: Gasket surfaces on both head and block must be clean of any foreign matter and free of nicks or deep scratches. Cylinder bolt threads in block and threads on cylinder head bolt must be cleaned. Dirt will affect bolt torque. Do Not use gasket sealer on composition steel Figure 1. Cylinder Head Torque Sequence asbestos gaskets. formance, blown cylinder head gaskets, burned valves, warped cylinder head or all four. 1. Place gasket in position over dowel pins with bead up. 2. Carefully guide cylinder head into place over dowel pins and gasket. 5. Install coil (if removed). 3. Coat threads of cylinder head bolts with sealing 6. Connect cooling hoses. compound and install finger-tight. 7. Connect temperature sending unit wires. 4- Tighten cylinder head bolts a little at a time in 8. Install manifold assembly as outlined. 9. Install and adjust valve mechansim as outlined. sequence shown on torque sequence chart (Figure 1) until specified torque is reached. NOTE: DO NOT install rocker arm cover. NOTE: Be sure to torque cylinder head on all 6cylinder engines while performing 20-hour checkup. 10. Start engine and allow to warm up, retorque cylinder Failure to retorque could result in poor engine per-head and readjust valves. CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLIES and VALVE CONDITIONING DISASSEMBLY 1. With cylinder head removed, remove valve rocker arm nuts, balls and rocker arms. 2. Compress the valve springs with Tool J-8062 (Figure 2) and remove valve keys. Release compressor tool and remove spring caps, spring shields (if so equipped), springs and spring damper, then remove oil seals and valve spring shims. 3. Remove valves from cylinder head and place them in a rack in their proper sequence for later assembly in their original positions. CLEANING 1. Clean all carbon from combustion chambers and valve ports with Tool J-8089. (Figure 3) 2. Thoroughly clean valve guides with Tool J-8101. (Figure 4) 3. Clean all carbon and sludge from push rods, rocker arms and push rod guides. 4. Clean valve stems and heads on a buffing wheel. 5. Clean carbon deposits from head gasket mating surface. Figure 2. Compressing Valve Spring 570 ENGINE - 5A-7 Figure 3. Cleaning Combustion Chambers Figure 4. Cleaning Valve Guides INSPECTION 1. Inspect cylinder head for cracks in exhaust ports, combustion chambers or external cracks to water chamber. 2. Inspect valves for burned heads, cracked faces or damaged stems. NOTE: Excessive valve stem to bore clearance will cause excessive oil consumption and may cause valve breakage. Insufficient clearance will result in noisy and sticky valves and disturb smooth engine operation. 3. Measure valve stem clearance as follows: C.amp a dial indicator on one side of cylinder head rocker arm cover gasket rail, locating indicator so that movement of valve stem from side-to-side (crosswise to head) will cause a direct movement of indicator stem. Indicator stem must contact side of valve stem just above valve guide. With valve head dropped about 1 '16" (1.6mm! off valve seat, move stem of valve from side-to-side, using light pressure to obtain a clearance reading. If clearance exceeds specifications. it will be necessary to ream valve guides for oversize valves as ou:lined. 1. Check valve sprins tension with Tool J-8056 spring tester. (Figure 5) NOTE: Compress springs to specified height and check against specification chart. Replace if no! within 10 lbs. of' specified load (without dampers). 5. Inspect rocker arm studs for wear or damage. NOTE: Coat threads on cylinder head end of rocker arm studs with sealer before assembling to cylinder head. Figure 5. Checking Valve Spring iension ROCKER ARM STUDS Rocker arm studs with damaged threads or with loose fit in cylinder heads should be replaced with new studs available in .003" and .013" (,076mm and .330mm) oversize. Studs may be installed after reaming holes as follows : 1. Remove old stud by placing Tool J-5802-1 over stud, installing nut and flat washer and removing stud by turning nut. (Figure 6) 2. Ream hole for oversize stud with Tool J-5715 for .003" oversize or Tool J-6036 for .013" oversize. (Figure 7) CAUTION: Do not attempt to install an oversize stud without reaming stud hole. 3. Coat press-fit area of stud with lubricant. Install new stud, using Tool J-6880 as a guide. Gauge should bottom on head. (Figure 8) 5A-S -ENGiNE 4. After grinding valve seat, measure concentricity. (Figure 10) NOTE: Valve seats should be concentric to within .002" (.051mm) total indicator reading. Figure 7. Reaming Rocker Arm Stud Bore 01596 Figure 6. Removing Rocker Arm Stud VALVE GUIDE BORES Valves with oversize stems ai e available (see specifications). To ream valve guide bores for .015" (.381mm) oversize valves, use Tool -5830-2 and for standard, use Tool J-4822. (Figure 9) Figure 8. Installing Figure 9. Reaming Rocker Arm Stud Valve Guide VALVE SEATS 1. \alves must seat perfect for the engine to deliver the power and performance built into it. 2. Good contact between each valve and its seat in head is imperative to insure that heat in valve head will be properly carried away (cooled). 3. Recommendations of equipment manufacturer for reseating valve seats should be carefully followed to attain proper results. Regardless of what type of equipment is used, however, it is essential that valve guide bores be free from carbon or dirt. Figure 10. Measuring Valve Seat Concentricity VALVES Pitted valves can be refaced to proper angle (Figure 11) thus insuring correct relation between head and stem on valve refacing mechanism. Valve stems, which show excessive wear or valves that are warped excessively, should be replaced. When a valve head (warped excessively) is refacsd, a knife edge will be ground on part or all of valve head due to amount of metal that must be removed to completely reface. Knife edges lead to breakage, burning or pre-ignition from heat localizing on this knife edge. If edge of valve head is less than 1/32" (.8mm) thickness after grinding, replace valve. Recommendations of equipment manufacturer for refacing valves should be carefully followed to obtain best results. NOTE: Only extreme end of valve stem is hardened to resist wear. Do not grind end of stem excessively. 1. After cleaning valve face and cylinder head valve seat of grinding particles, make pencil marks about 1/4" (6.4mm) apart across valve face, place valve in cylinder head and give valve 1/2-turn in each direction while exerting firm pressure on head of valve. 2. Remove valve and check face carefully. If all pencil marks have not been removed at point of contact with valve seat, it will be necessary to repeat re- facing operation and again recheck for proper seating. 3. Grind and check remaining valves in same manner. ENGINE - 5A-9 Figure 11. "elation of Valve and Seat Angles REASSEMBLY 1. Insert valve in proper port. 2. Assemble valve spring and related parts as follows: a. Set valve spring shim, valve spring, valve shield and valve cap in place. (Figure 12) Close, coiled end of spring is installed against cylinder head. b. Compress spring with Tool J-8062. c. Install oil seal in lower groove of stem, making sure that sea! is flat and not twisted. Figure 13. Vacuum Cup 0160 2 from a small syringe and a high voltage shield. (Figure 13) 5. Check installed height of valve springs with narrow thin scale. (Figure 14) Measure from top of shim or spring seat to top of valve spring or valve spring shield. (Figure 14) If this exceeds specified height, install a valve spring seat shim approximately 1/16 " (1.6mm) thick. At no time should spring be shimmed to give an installed height under minimum specified. Figure 12. Valve Spring Installation d. Install valve locks and release compressor tool, making sure that locks seat properly in upper groove of valve stem. 3. Install remaining valves. 4. Check each valve stem oil seal by placing a vacuum cup or similar device over end of valve stem and against cap. Operate vacuum cup and make sure that ?*> w no air leaks past seal. A vacuum cup can be made Figure 14. Checking Valve Spring Installed Height SA-10 - ENGINE OIL PAN REMOVAL 1. Disconnect battery. 2. Drain engine oil. 3. Remove starter motor. 4. Remove oil par. screws, oil pan, gaskets and end seals. INSTALLATION "i . Thoroughly clean all gasket sealing surfaces. 2. Install rear seal in rear main bearing cap. OIL Oil piimp consists of 2 gears and a pressure regulator valve enclosed in a 2-piece housing. Oil pump is driven by distributor shaft which is driven by a helical gear on camshaft. A baffle is incorporated on pickup screen to eliminate pressure loss. REMOVAL 1. Remove oil pan as outlined. 2. Remove flange mounting bolts and pickup pipe bolt, then remove pump and screen as an assembly. INSTALLATION 1. Align oil pump drive shafts to match with distributor tang, then install oil pump to block, positioning flange over distributor lower bushing. Use no gasket. NOTE: Oil pump should slide easily into place. If not. remove and reposition slot to align with distributor tang. 2. Install oil pan as outlined. DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove pump ccver attaching screws, pump cover and pump cover gasket. NOTE: Mark gear teeth so they may be reassembled with same teeth indexing. 2. Remove idler gear and drive gear and shaft from pump body. 3. Remove pressure regulator valve retaining pin, pressure regulator valve and related parts. 4. If pickup screen and pipe assembly need replacing, mount pump in a soft-jawed vise and extract pipe from pump. CM TION: Do not disturb pickup screen on pipe which is serviced as an assembly. REASSEMBLY 1. If pickup screen and pipe assembly was removed, replace with a new part. Loss of press fit condition could result in air leak and loss of oil pressure. Mount pump in soft-jawed vise and apply sealer to end of pipe with Tool J-8369. Tap pipe in p.ace with plastic hammer. 3. Install front seal on timing gear cover. 4. Install side gaskets on cylinder block, using grease as a retainer. Side gasket tabs index into notches of front seal. 5. Install oil pan. 6. Install starter motor. 7. Fill crankcase with oil. 8. Connect battery. PUMP CAUTION: Be careful of twisting, shearing or collapsing pipe while installing in pump. Pickup screen must be parallel to bottom of oil pan when oil pump is installed. 2. Install pressure regulator vaive and related parts. 3. Install drive gear and shaft in pump body. 4. Install idler gear in pump body with smooth side of gear toward pump cover opening. 5. Install pump cover with new gasket and torque attaching screws to specifications. 6. Turn drive shaft by hand to check for smooth operation . Figure 1. 1 Pressure Regulator Valve 2 Pressure Regulator Spring 3 Retaining Pin 4 Screws 5 Cover Oil Pump 6 Cover Gasket 7 Idler Gear 8 Drive Gear and Shaft 9 Pump Body 10 Pickup Screen and Pipe Pump ENGINE - 5A-11 Figure 2. Installing Screen CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Wash all parts in cleaning solvent and dry with com pressed air. 2. Inspect pump body and cover for cracks or excessive wear. 3. Inspect pump gears for damage or excessive wear. 4. Check drive gear shaft for looseness in pump body. 5. Inspect inside of pump cover for wear that would permit oil to leak past ends of gears. 6. Inspect pickup screen and pipe assembly for damage to screen, pipe or relief grommet. 7. Check pressure regulator valve for fit. NOTE: Pump gears and body are not serviced sep arately. If pump gears or body are damaged or worn, replace entire oil pump assembly. 5A- 12 - ENG I NE 570 CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REMOVAL into position with a mallet. Using Tool J-5590. strike hub until it bottoms against crankshaft gear. 1 . Remove front mounting bracket and drive belt. Remove NOTE: Crankshaft extends slightly thru hub, and crankshaft pulley from pulley hub. a tool is necessary to drive hub completely into 2. Install puller Tool J-6978 to pulley hub with two 3/8 x 2" and one 5/16 x 2" bolts and remove hub. bottomed position. (Figure 1) Remove puller tool. 2. Install pulley onto hub- NOTE: There are two 3/8" (9.5mm) holes and one 5/16" (7.9mm) hole that must be matched on hub in order to properly position timing mark. (Figure 2) 3. Install drive belt 4. Install front mounting bracket. Figure 1. Removing Crankshaft Pulley Hub INSTALLATION 1. Coat oil seal contact area on hub with engine oil, position hub over crankshaft and key and start hub 01609 Figure 2. Install Pulley To Hub TORSIONAL DAMPER REMOVAL 1. Remove front mounting bracket and drive belt. Remove retaining bolt, if so equipped. 2. Install Tool J-6978 to balancer and turn puller screw- to remove damper. (Figure 3) Remove tool from damper. INSTALLATION 1. Coat front cover oil seal contact area of balancer with engine oil. 2. Attach damper installer Tool J-8792 to damper as shown in Figure 4. 3. Position damper on crankshaft and drive into position until it bottoms against crankshaft gear (except "292 " model). (Pull "292" engine damper onto crankshaft with a fully-threaded 7/16-20 bolt, washer and nut.) 4. Remove installation tool or bolt. 5. Install drive belt and adjust tension. 6. Install front mounting bracket. ENGINE - 5A-13 CAUTION: Inertia weight section of torsional damper is assembled to hub with rubber type material. Installation procedures (with proper tool) must be followed or movement of inertia weight section on hub will upset tuning of torsional damper. Figure 4. Installing Harmonic Balancer CRANKCASE FRONT COVER REMOVAL 1. Remove oil pan as outlined. 2. Remove crankshaft pulley and hub or damper as outlined. 3. Remove crankshaft front cover attaching screws, cover and gasket. INSTALLATION 1. Clean gasket surfaces on block and crankcase front 06056 cover seal. (Figure 5) Figure 5. Centering Tool (J-23042) In Cover 2. Install centering Tool J-23042 in crankcase front NOTE: Use only centering tool to align crankcase cover seal. (Figure 5) front cover so that crankshaft hub or damper installation uiill not damage seal and to position seal to seal 3. Coat gasket with gasket sealer and place in posievenly around damper or hub surface. tion on cover, then install crankcase front cover to block and torque to specifications. 5. Install crankshaft hub and/or damper as outlined. 4. Remove centering tool. 6. Install oil pan as outlined. OIL SEAL (FRONT COVER) REPLACEMENT WITHOUT COVER REMOVAL WITH COVER REMOVAL 1. With crankshaft pulley and hub or damper removed, pry old seal out of cover from front with large screw 1. With cover removed, pry old seal out of cover from driver, being careful not do damage seal surface on front with large screwdriver. crankshaft. 2. Install new seal so that open end of seal is toward inside of cover and drive seal into position 2. Install new seal so that open end of seal is toward with Tool J-23042. (Figure 6) inside of cover and drive seal into position with Tool J-23042. (Figure 7) CAUTION: Support cover at sealing area. Tool J-971 may be used as support. 5 A- 14 -ENGINE 570 FLYWHEEL and COUPLER REMOVAL 1. Remove engine from boat. 2. Remove bell housing. 3. Remove coupler by removing retaining nuts and washers. INSPECTION ENGINE COUPLING Warranty inspection of engine coupling assemblies has indicated the following failure causes: 1. Failure of engine coupling assembly spline and/or universal splined shaft caused by insufficient lubrication at time of installation. On initial installation and whenever a stern drive unit is removed, lubricate engine coupling splines with Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). The spline mating surfaces will wear very rapidly if installed dry. 2. Hub bond, which shears or pulls loose from hub center, indicates engine drive misalignment. Align engine with correct alignment tool. FLYWHEEL Figure 8. Flywheel Position on Crankshaft Flange Check flywheel ring gear for worn or missing teeth. 2. Place drive coupling on studs and install washers and lock nuts. Torque nuts to specifications with INSTALLATION Torque Wrench and Adaptor (C-91-54638 for "153, 181, 1. Install flywheel. Line up dowel hole in flywheel 230 and 250"; C-91-54638 for "292"). with dowel hole in crankshaft flange and set flywheel 3. Install bell housing. in place on studs. (Figure 8) 4. Lubricate coupler splines and install engine in boat. ENGINE - 5A-15 OIL SEAL (REAR MAIN) REPLACEMENT Rear main bearing oil seal can be replaced (both halves) without removing crankshaft. NOTE: Always replace upper and lower seal as a unit. Install with lip facing toward front of engine. 1. With oil pan removed, remove rear main bearing cap. 2. Remove oil seal from annular tang by prying from bottom with small screwdriver. 3. Lubricate lip of new seal with engine oil. Keep oil off parting line surface, as this is treated with glue. Insert seal in cap and roll seal into place with finger and thumb, using light pressure so seal tangs at parting line do not cut bead on back of seal. 4. To remove upper half of seal, use small hammer to tap brass pin punch on one end of seal until it protrudes far enough to ae removed with pliers. (Figure 9) NOTE: Always wipe crankshaft surface clean before installing new seal. 5. Lubricate lip of new seal with engine oil. Keep oil off parting line surface. Gradually push with a hammer handle (while turning crankshaft) until seal is rolled into place (similar to installing a main bearing). Be careful that seal tangs at parting line do not cut bead on back of seal. Use sealer at parting line on cap half of seal. 6. Apply sealer to cylinder block in seal area.(Figure 10) 7. Install rear main bearing cap (with new seal) and torque to specifications. 8. Install oil pan as outlined. Figure 9. Removing Oil Seal (Upper Half) Typical Figure 10. Sealing Bearing Cap and Block 5A-16 - ENGINE MAIN BEARINGS 1. Main bearings are precision insert type and do not utilize shim for adjustment. If clearances are found to be excessive, a new bearing (both upper and lower halves) will be required. Bearings are available in standard size and .001", .002", .010", and .020" undersize. (1" = 25.4mm) 2. Selective fitting of both rod and main bearing inserts is necessary in production to obtain close tolerances. For example, one half of a standard insert with one half of a .001" undersize insert may be found, which w ill decrease clearance .0005" from using a full standard bearing. 3. Rhen a production crankshaft cannot be precision fitted by this method, it then is ground .009" undersize on main journals only. A .009" undersize bearing and .010" undersize bearing may be used for precision fitting in same manner as previously described. Any engine, fitted with a .009" undersize crankshaft, will be identified by following markings. • ".009" will be stamped on crankshaft counterweight forward of center main journal. • Figure "9 " will be stamped on block at left front oil pan rail. NOTE: If main bearing caps are replaced, shimming may be necessary. Laminated shims for each cap are available for service. Shim requirement will be determined by bearing clearance. INSPECTION In general (except No. 1 bearing), lower half of bearing shows greater wear and most distress from fatigue. If, upon inspection, lower half is acceptable, it can be assumed that upper half also is satisfactory. If lower half shows evidence of wear or damage, replace both upper and lower halves. Neverreplace one half without replacing other half. Typical bearing failures are shown in Figure 1, following. Figure 1. Typical Bearing Failure CHECKING CLEARANCE To obtain most accurate results, use Plastigage (or its equivalent), a wax-like plastic material which will compress evenly between bearing and journal surfaces without damaging either surface. With engine upside down, crankshaft will rest on upper bearings and total clearance can be measured between lower bearing and journal. NOTE: To assure proper seating of crankshaft, torque- all bearing cap bolts as specified. In addition, before checking fit of bearings, wipe surface of crankshaft journal and bearing clean of oil. 1. With oil pan and oil pump removed, and starting with rear main bearing, remove bearing cap and wipe oil from journal and bearing cap. 2. Place piece of gauging plastic the full width of bearing (parallel to crankshaft) on journal. (Figure 2) Figure 2. Gauging Plastic on Journal CAL'TION: Do not rotate crankshaft while the gauging plastic is between bearing and journal. 3. Install bearing cap and evenly torque retaining bolts to specifications. 4. Remove bearing cap. Flattened gauging plastic will be found adhering to either bearing shell or journal. 5. A graduated scale (correlated in thousandths of an inch) exists on edge of gauging plastic envelope. Without removing gauging plastic, measure its compressed width (at widest point) with graduations on gauging plastic envelope. (Figure 3) NOTE: Normally, main bearing journals wear evenly and are not out-of-round. However, if a bearing is being fitted to an out-of-round journal (.001" _.025mm_ max.), be sure to fit to maximum diameter of journaL If bearing is fitted to minimum diameter, and journal is out-of-round .001", interference between bearing ENGINE - 58-454 8. Proceed to next bearing. After all bearings have been checked, rotate crankshaft so that no excessive drag exists. 9. Measure crankshaft end play (see specifications) bv forcing crankshaft to extreme front position. Measure at front end of rear main bearing with feeler gauge. (Figure 4) 10. Install new rear main bearing oil seal in cylinder block and main bearing cap. MAIN BEARING REPLACEMENT 1. Remove and inspect crankshaft. 2. Remove main bearings from cylinder block and main bearing caps. 3. Coat bearing surfaces of new, correct-size, main bearings with oil and install in cylinder block and main bearing caps. Check clearance outlined. 4. Install crankshaft. Figure 3. Measuring Gauging Plastic and journal will result in rapid bearing failure. If flattened gauging plastic tapers toward middle or ends, there is a difference in clearance indicating taper, low spot or other irregularity of bearing or journal. Be sure to measure journal with a micrometer if flattened gauging plastic indicates more than .001" difference. 6. If bearing clearance is within specifications, bearing insert is satisfactory. If clearance is not within specifications, replace insert. Always replace both upper and lower insert as a unit. NOTE: If a new bearing cap is being installed and clearance is less than .001", inspect for burrs or nicks. If none is found, install shims as required. 7. A standard .001" or .002" undersize bearing may produce proper clearance. If not, regrind crankshaft journal for use with next undersize bearing. Figure 4. Measuring Crankshaft End Play 5A-1S -ENGI NE CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS Connecting rod bearings are precision insert type and do not utilize shims for adjustment. DO NOT FILE RODS OR ROD CAPS. If clearances are found to be excessive, a new bearing will be required. Bearings are available in standard size and .001" and .002" undersize for use with new and used standard size crankshaft and in .010" and .020" undersize for use with reconditioned crankshafts. 0" = 25.4mm) INSPECTION and REPLACEMENT 1. With oil pan anc oil pump removed, remove connecting rod cap and bearing. 2. Inspect bearing for evidence of wear or damage. (Defective bearingsshould not be installed.) Typical bearing failures are shown in Figure 1, preceding. 3. Wipe bearings and crankpin clean of oil. 4. Measure crankpin for out-of-round or taper with a micrometer. If not within specifications, replace or recondition crankshaft. If within specifications and new- bearing is to be installed, measure maximum diameter of crankpin to determine new bearing size required. 5. If within specifications, measure new, or used bearing clearances with Plastigage or equivalent. \0TE: If bearing is being fitted to out-of-round crank- pin. be sure to fit maximum diameter of crankpin. If bearing is fitted to minimum diameter, and crankpin is out-of-round .001", interfe rence between bearing and crankpin will result in rapid bearing failure. a. Place a piece of gauging plastic the full width of crankpin (parallel to crankshaft). (Figure 5) b. Install bearing connecting rod and cap. c. Install bearing cap and torque nuts evenly to specifications. CAUTION: Ho not turn crankshaft with gauging plastic installed. Figure 6. Measuring Gauging Plastic d. Remove bearing cap and, using scale on gauging plastic envelope, measure gauging plastic width at widest point. (Figure 6) 6. If clearance exceeds specifications, select a new, correct-size bearing and remeasure clearance. 7. Coat bearingsurface with oil. install rod cap and torque nuts to specifications. 8. When all connecting rod bearings have been installed, tap each rod lightly (parallel to crankpin) to be sure they have clearance. 9. Measure all connecting rod side clearances(see specifications) between connecting rod and side of crankpin. (Figure 7) Figure 5. Gauging Plastic on Crankpin 570 ENGINE 58-454 CONNECTING ROD and REMOVAL 1. With oil pan. oil pump and cylinder head removed, use a ridge reamer to remove any ridge and^or deposits from upper end of cylinder bore. NOTE: Before ridge and/or deposits are removed, turn crankshaft until piston is at bottom of stroke and place a cloth on top of piston to collect cuttings. After ridge and/or deposits are removed, turn crankshaft until piston is at top of stroke and remove cloth and cuttings. 2. Inspect connecting rods and connecting rod caps for cylinder identification. If necessary, mark them. 3. Remove connecting rod cap and install Tool J-6305 (11/32") on bolts. Push connecting rod and piston assembly out of lop of cylinder block. (Figure 1) NOTE: Turn crankshaft slightly to disconnect some of the connecting rod and piston assemblies and push them out of cylinder. DISASSEMBLY PISTON SUPPORT TOOL If bosses on pistons do not allow piston support Tool J-9510-1 to seat squarely on piston for press operations, modifications to tool are necessary. To allow adequate clearance for these bosses, turn or grind upper portion of tool to dimensions shown in Figure 2. Installation of 181 cubic inch pistons may require additional grinding of support tool beyond dimensions shown in Figure 2. PISTON ASSEMBLIES 1. Remove connecting rod bearings from connecting rods and caps. SOTE: If connecting rod bearings are being reused, place in a rack for reinstallation in original rod and cap. 2. Use piston ring expander to expand rings and slide from pistons. 3. Place connecting rod and piston assembly in arbor press with piston on support Tool J-9510-1 and press piston pin out of connecting rod and piston. 4. Remove assembly from arbor press and remove tools, piston pin, connecting rod and piston. CLEANING and INSPECTION CONNECTING RODS 1. Wash connecting rods in cleaning solvent and dry with compressed air. 2. Check for twisted or bent rods and inspect for nicks or cracks. Replace damaged connecting rods. PISTONS 1. Clean varnish from piston skirts and pins with cleaning solvent. DO NOT WIRE BRUSH ANY PART OF PISTON. Clean ring grooves with groove cleaner and make sure oil ring holes and slots are clean. 2. Inspect piston for cracked ring lands, skirts or pin bosses, wavy worn ring lands, scuffed or damaged skirts and eroded areas at top of piston. Replace pistons which are damaged or show signs of excessive wear. 01646 Figure 1. Guide Tool J-6305 Installed Modification of tool as described does not affect tool application on other pistons. Figure 2. Piston Support Tool J-9510-1 3. Inspect grooves for nicks or burrs which might cause rings to hang up. 4. Measure piston skirt (across centerline of piston pin) and check clearance as outlined under "Piston Selection". PISTON PINS 1. Piston and piston pin are a matched set and not serviced separately. 2. Pin bores and piston pins must be free of varnish or scuffing. Measure piston pin with a micrometer and piston pin bore with a dial bor.e gauge or inside micro5A- 20 - ENGINE meter. If clearance is in excess of .001" (.025mm) wear limit, replace piston and piston pin assembly. REASSEMELY 1. Lubricate piston pin holes in piston and connecting rod for easier pin installation. 2. Place support Tool J-9510-1 with spring and pilot in place on arbor press. 3. Position piston on connecting rod with appropriate side of piston and connecting rod bearing tangs aligned. (Figure 4) 4. Place piston on support, indexing pilot through piston and rod. 5. Place installer (Figure 4) on piston pin. start piston and press on installer until pilot bottoms in support. 6. Remove installer from connecting rod and piston assembly and check piston for freedom of movement on piston pin. (Figure 6) NO TE: An oven is recommended to heat small end of connecting rod prior to installation in piston assembly. (Figure. 5) 01637 Figure 3. Removing Piston Pin ENGINE - 58-454 Figure 6. Connecting Rod and Piston Assembly PISTON RINGS All compression rings are marked on upper side of ring. When installing compression rings, make sure marked side is toward top of piston. Top ring is chrome faced or treated with molvbdenum for maximum life. Oil control rings are 3-piece type, consisting of 2 segments (rails) and a spacer. 1. Select rings comparable in size to piston being used. Figure 8. Ring Gap Location 2. Slip compression ring in cylinder bore,then press ring down into cylinder bore about (6.4mm) (above ring travel). Be sure that ring is square with cylinder wall. 3. Measure space or gap between ends of ring with a feeler gauge. (Figure 7) 4. If gap between ends of ring is below specifications (Figure 8), remove ring and try another for fit. 5. Fit each compression ring to cylinder in which it will be used. 6. Clean and inspect pistons, as previously outlined, if not already completed. 7. Slip outer surface of top and second compression ring 01640 into respective piston ring groove and roll ring entirely around groove (Figure 9) to make sure that ring is free. If binding occurs at any point, determine cause and, 570 Figure 7. Measuring Ring Gap 5A-22 - ENGINE if caused by ring groove, remove by dressing with a fine cut file. If binding is caused by a distorted ring, check a new ring. 8. Install piston rings as shown in Figure 6. Ring installation tools are: MODEL TOOL NO. 153, 230, 250,. 292 J-8021 (3 7/8" ) 181 J-8032 (4") 194 J-8020 ( 3 9/16") a. Install oil ring spacer in groove and (except on 250) insert anti-rotation tang in oil hole. b. Hold spacer ends butted and install lower steel oil ring rail with gap properly located. c. Install upper steel oil ring rail with gap properly located. d. Flexoil ringassemblv to make sure that ring is free. If binding occurs at any point, determine cause and, if caused by ring groove, remove by dressing groove with a fine cut file. If binding if caused by a distorted ring, check a new ring. e. Install second compression ring expander, then ring with gaps properly located. f. Install top compression ring with gap in correct location. 9. Proper clearance of piston ring in piston ring groove is necessary for proper ring action and to reduce wear. Therefore, when fitting new rings, measure clearances between ring surfaces and groove. (See "Specifications", Section 8.) INSTALLATION NOTE: Cylinder bores must be clean before piston installation. Clean with hot water and detergent wash or with a light honing, as necessary. After cleaning, swab bores several times with light engine oil and a clean dry cloth. 1. Lubricate connecting rod bearings and install in rods and rod caps. 2. Lightly coat pistons, rings and cylinder walls with light engine oil. 3. With bearing caps removed, install Tool J-6305(11/32") on connecting rod bolts. CAUTION: Be sure that ring gaps are properly positioned as previously outlined. NOTE: Early Model "181" No. 2 connecting rods have a ground recess on camshaft side to provide clearance for fuel pump lobe on camshaft. Be sure that No. 2 connecting rod is installed in same location and and position. If connecting rod is replaced, then replace camshaft also, since replacement connecting rods are not ground for clearance, and replacement camshafts have a smaller fuel pump lobe. 4. Install each connecting rod and piston assembly in respective bore. Pistons must have piston notch facing front of engine. Use Tool J-8307 to compress rings. (Figure 10) Guide connecting rod into place on crankshaft journal with Tool J-5239. Use light blows with hammer handle to install piston into bore. Hold ring compressor firmly against cylinder block until all piston rings have entered cylinder bore. 5. Remove guide tool. 6. Install bearing caps and torque nuts to specification. Figure 9. Checking Ring in Groove NOTE: If bearing replacement is required, refer to "Connecting Rod Bearings", preceding. Figure 10. Installing Connecting Rod and Piston Assemblies NOTE: Be sure to install new pistons in same cylinders for which they were fitted and used pistons in same cylinders from which they were removed. Each connecting rod and bearing cap should be marked, begining at front of engine. ENGINE - 5A-23 CRANKSHAFT Crankshaft can be removed while engine is disassembled for overhaul or without complete disassembly. REMOVAL 1. Remove flywheel housing, coupler and flywheel. 2. Remove starter motor. 3. Remove spark plugs. 4. Remove crankshaft pulley or torsional damper. 5. Remove oil pan and oil pump. 6. Remove crankcase front cover. 7. Check connecting rod caps for cylinder number identification. If necessary, mark caps. 8. Remove connecting rod caps and push pistons to top of bores. 9. Remove main bearing caps and lift crankshaft out of cylinder block, 10. Remove rear main bearing oil seal and main bearings from cylinder block and main bearing caps. CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Wash crankshaft in solvent and dry with compressed air. 2. Measure dimensions of main bearing journals and crank- pins with a micrometer for out-of-round, taper or under- size (see "Specifications", Section 8). 3. Check crankshaft for run-out by supporting at front and rear main bearing journals in "V " blocks and check at front and rear intermediate journals with a dial indicator (see "Specifications"). 4. Replace or recondition crankshaft if not within specifications . INSTALLATION 1. Install crankshaft as follows: a. Install rear main bearing oil seal in cylinder block and rear main bearing cap grooves. Install with lip of seal toward front of engine. b. Lubricate lip of seal with engine oil. Keep oil off parting line surface. c. Install main bearings in cylinder block and main bearing caps, then lubricate bearing surface with engine oil. Figure 1. Measuring Crankshaft End Play d. Install crankshaft, being careful not to damage bearing surfaces. e. Apply a thin coat of brush-on type oil sealing compound to block mating surface and corresponding surface of cap only. Do not allow sealer on crankshaft or seal lip. f. Install main bearing caps with arrows pointing toward front of engine. g. Torque all except rear main bearing cap bolts to specifications. Torque rear main bearing cap bolts to specifications, then tap end of crankshaft, first from rear then forward, with a lead hammer. This will line up rear main bearing and crankshaft thrust surfaces. Retorque all main bearing cap bolts to specifications. h. Measure crankshaft end play with a feeler gauge. Force crankshaft forward and measure clearance between front of rear main bearing and crankshaft thrust surface. (Figure 1) 2. Install flywheel as outlined and torque to specifications. SA -24 -ENGINE 370 CAMSHAFT MEASURING LOBE LIFT NOTE: Procedure is similar to checking valve timing. If improper valve operation is indicated, measure lift of each push rod in consecutive order and record the readings. 1. Remove valve mechanism as outlined. 2. Position indicator with ball socket adaptor (Tool J-8520) on push rod. (Figure 2) 3. Rotate torsional damper slowly in direction of rotation until, lifter is on heel of cam lobe. At this point, push rod will be in its lowest position. 4. Set dial indicator on zero, then rotate damper slowly, or attach an auxiliary starter switch and "bump" engine over, until push rod is in fully raised position. Figure 2. Measuring Camshaft Lobe Lift 5. Compare total lift recorded from dial indicator with "Specifications", Section 8. 6. Continue to rotate crankshaft until indicator reads zero. This will be a check on accuracy of original indicator reading. 7. If camshaft readings for all lobes are within specifications, remove dial indicator assembly. 8. Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined. REMOVAL 1. Remove valve lifters as outlined. 2. Remove crankcase front cover as outlined. 3. Remove fuel pump as outlined. 4. \ligr. timing gear marks, then remove 2 camshaft thrust plates' screws bv working thru holes in camshaft gear. (Figure 3) 5. Pull camshaftand gear assembly out thru front of block. \ OTE: Support camshaft carefully when removing to protect camshaft bearings. INSPECTION 1. Measure camshaft bearing journals with a micrometer for out-of-round condition. If journals exceed .001" (.025mm) out-of-round, replace camshaft. Figure 5. Measuring Camshaft End Play ENGINE - SA-25 2. Check camshaft for alignment with "V " blocks and dial indicator (Figure 4) for exact amount that camshaft is out-of-true. If out more than .002" (.051mm) dial indicator reading, replace camshaft. 3. On in-line engines, inspect camshaft gear and thrust plate for wear or damage. Measure camshaft end play (.001" to .005" [,025mm to .127mm^). (Figure 5) CAMSHAFT GEAR REPLACEMENT 1. If inspection (preceding) indicated that camshaft, gear or thrust plate should be replaced, remove gear from camshaft with camshaft gear remover Tool J-971. 2. Place camshaft thru gear remover, place end of remover on table of a press and press shaft out of gear. (Figure 6) CAUTION: Position thrust plate so that woodruff key in shait does not damage plate when shaft is pressed out of gear. Also support hub of gear, or gear will be seriously damaged. 3. To assemble camshaft gear, thrust plate and gear spacer ring to camshaft, firmly support camshaft at back of front journal in arbor press. 4. Place gear spacer ring and thrust plate over end of shaft, and install woodruff key in shaft keyway. Press shaft gear onto shaft until it bottoms against gear spacer ring. End clearance of thrust plate should be .001" to .005" (,025mm to ,127mm). (Figure 5) INSTALLATION 1. Install camshaft and gear assembly in engine block, being careful not to damage camshaft bearings or camshaft. 2. Turn, crankshaft and camshaft so that valve timing marks on gear teeth will line up. (Figure 7) Push camshaft thrust plate to block screws and torque to specifications. •3. Check camshaft and crankshaft gear run-out with a dial indicator. (Figure 8) Camshaft gear run-out should not exceed .004" (..102mm) and crankshaft gear run-out should not exceed .003" (.076mm). 4. If gear run-out is excessive, remove gear and clean burrs from shaft, or gear must be replaced. 5. Check backlash between timing gear teeth with a dial indicator. (Figure 9) Backlash should net be less than .004", nor mare than .006" (.152mm). 6. Install fuel pump as outlined. 7. Install crankcase front cover as described. 8. Install valve lifters as outlined. Figure 7. Crankshaft Gear Figure 8. Checking Timing Gear Run-Out 5A-26 - ENGINE CAMSHAFT REMOVAL With camshaft removed, inspect bearings for evidence of wear or damage. Replace defective bearings. Replace camshaft bearings while engine is disassembled for overhaul or without complete disassembly of the engine. To replace bearings without complete disassembly,remove camshaft and crankshaft, leaving cylinder heads attached and pistons in place. Before removing crankshaft, tape threads of connecting rod bolts to prevent damage to crankshaft. Fasten connecting rods against sides of engine so that rods will r.ot hinder camshaft bearing replacement. 1. With camshaft and crankshaft removed, drive camshaft rear plug from cylinder block. NOTE: This procedure is based on removal of bearings nearest center of engine first. Thus, a minimum number of turns are necessary to remove all bearings. 2. Using Tool Set J-6098, with nut then thrust washer installed to end of threads, position pilot in front camshaft bearing and install puller screw thru pilot. 3. Install remover and installer tool with shoulder toward bearing, making sure a sufficient amount of threads are engaged. 4. Using 2 wrenches, hold puller screw while turning nut. When bearing has been pulled from bore, remove tool and bearing from puller screw. (Figure 10) 5. Remove remaining bearings (except front and rear) in same manner. Position pilot in rear camshaft bearing to remove rear intermediate bearing. 6. Assemble remover and installer tool on driver handle and remove front and rear camshaft bearings by driving toward center of cylinder block. (Figure 11) INSTALLATION Install front and rear camshaft bearings first. These bearings will act as guides for pilot and center remaining bearings being pulled into place. BEARINGS NOTE: Bearing O.D. 's for 6-cylinder (Nos. 1 and 4) and 4-cylinder (No. 3) are 2.009-2.011 and 6-cylinder (Nos. 2 and 3) and 4-cylinder (Nos. 1 and 2) are 1.999 2.001. 1. Assemble remover and installer tool on driver handle and install front and rear camshaft bearings by driving toward center of cylinder block. (Figure 11) CAUTION: Oil holes in bearings must line up with oil holes in cylinder block. Oil hole is on top side of bearing shell and cannot be seen during installation, so first align bearing shell oil hole with oil hole in bore and mark opposite side of bearing and block at bore to easily position oil hole during install ation. NOTE: Front bearing must be driven approximately 1/8" behind front of cylinder block to uncover oil hole to timing gear oil nozzle. ENGINE - 5A-27 570 01623 Figure 11. Removing and Installing Camshaft Bearings 2. Using Tool Set J-6098, with nut then thrust washer installed to end of threads, position pilot in front camshaft bearing and install puller screw thru pilot. 3. Index camshaft bearing in bore, then install remover and installer tool on puller screw with shoulder toward bearings. 4. Using 2 wrenches, hold puller screw while turning nut. After bearing has been pulled into bore, remove tool from puller screw and check alignment of oil hole in camshaft bearing. (Figure 10) 5. Install remaining bearings in same manner. Position pilot in rear camshaft bearing to install rear intermediate bearing. Figure 12. Removing Crankshaft Gear 6. Install a new camshaft rear plug flush to 1/32 " (,8mm) deep and parallel with rear surface of cylinder block. Figure 13. Installing Crankshaft Gear 5A-28 - ENGINE CYLINDER BLOCK CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Wash cylinder block thoroughly in cleaning solvent and clean all gasket surfaces. 2. Remove oil gallery plugs and clean all oil passages. NOTE: Remove plugs with a sharp punch or drill and pry out. "A " = At Right Angle to Center- line of Engine "B " = Parallel to Centerline of Engine Taper = Difference between "A" Measurement at Top of Cylinder Bore and "A" Measurement at Bottom of Cy linder Bore Out-of-Round = Difference between "A" and "B" 05042 Figure 1. Cylinder Measurement 3. Clean and inspect water passages in cylinder block. 4. Inspect cylinder block for cracks in cylinder walls, water jacket valve lifter bores and main bearing webs. 5. Measure the cylinder walls for taper, out-of-round or excessive ridge at top of ring travel (Figure 1) with dial indicator. Set gauge so that thrust pin must be forced in about 1/4" (6.4mm) to enter gauge in cylinder bore. Center gauge in cylinder and turn dial to "0" . Carefully work gauge up-and-down cylinder to determine taper and turn gauge to different points around cylinder wall to determine out-of-round condition. If cylinders exceed specifications, honing and boring are necessary. (Figure. 2) Figure 2. Measuring Cylinder Bore REPAIRS CYLINDER CONDITIONING Condition of engine at time of repair is important. If inspection indicates that cylinder block is acceptable — except for out-of-round or tapered cylinders, condition the block by honing or boring. If cylinders have less than. 005" (.127mm) taper or wear, condition them with a hone and fit with high limit, standard size piston. A cylinder bore of less than .005" wear or taper may not clean up entirely when fitted to a high limit piston. To clean up bore entirely, in such a case, rebore for an oversize piston. If more than .005" taper or wear, bore and hone to smallest oversize that permits complete resurfacing of all cylinders. When pistons are fitted (honing not necessary), clean (scrub) cylinder bores with detergent and hot water. After cleaning, swab cylinder bores several times with light engine oil and clean cloth, then wipe with clean, dry- cloth. CYLINDER BORING 1. Before using any type boring bar, file off top of cylinder block to remove dirt or burrs. This will guard against a tilted boring bar and assures that rebored cylinder wall is at right angles to crankshaft. 2. Measure piston, to be fitted, with a micrometer at center of piston skirt and at right angles to piston pin. Bore cylinder to same diameter as piston and hone cylinder to specifications (Section 8) and as outlined under "Cylinder Honing and Piston Fitting". 3. Carefully follow instructions furnished by manufacturer of equipment being used. CYLINDER HONING 1. Follow hone manufacturer's recommendations for use of hone and cleaning and lubrication during honing. 2. Occasionally, during honing operation, thoroughly clean cylinderbore andcheck piston for correct fit in cylinder. 3. When finish honing a cylinder bore to fit a piston, move hone up-and-down to obtain very fine uniform surface finish marks in a cross-hatch pattern of approximately 45° to 65° included angle. Finish marks should be clean but not sharp and free from imbedded particles and torn or folded metal. CAUTION: Handle pistons with care and do not attempt to force them thru cylinder until cylinder has been honed to correct size, as this type piston can be distorted thru careless handling. 4. Permanently mark piston for cylinder to which it has been fitted and proceed to hone cylinders and fit remaining pistons. 5. Thoroughly clean cylinder bores with hot water and detergent. Scrub well with a stiff bristle brush and rinse thoroughly with hot water. Be absolutely certain that no abrasive material is allowed to remain in cylinder bores, or it will rapidly wear new rings and cylinder bores in addition to bearings lubricated by contaminated oil. Swab bores several times with light engine oil and a clean cloth, then wipe with a clean, dry cloth. DO NOT clean cylinder with kerosene or gasoline. Clean remainder of cylinder block to remove excess material spread during honing operation. PISTON SELECTION 1. Check USED piston to cylinder bore clearance as follows : a. Measure "Cylinder Bore Diameter" with a telescope gauge (2-1/2" L63.5mnT] fr°m toP of cylinder bore). ENGINE - 5A-29 b. Measure "Piston Diameter" (at skirt across center line of piston pir.). c. Subtract piston diameter from cylinder bore diameter to determine "Piston to Bore Clearance". d. Determine if piston to bore clearance is in acceptable range. 2. If used piston is not acceptable, check "Average Pistons Available" chart, following, and determine if a new piston can be selected to fit cylinder bore within acceptable range. 3. If cylinder bore must be reconditioned, measure new- piston diameter (across centerline of piston pin), then hone cylinder bore to correct clearance (preferable range). 4. Mark piston to identify cylinder for which it was fitted. OVERSIZE PISTONS AVAILABLE ENGIN ENGINENGIN E EE PISTON SIZE DISPLACEMEN DISPLACEMENDISPLACEMEN T TT .001" .005" .020" .030" 153, 230 and 250 3.8760" to 3.8770" 3.8937 to 3.8957" 3.9037" to 3.9059" 181 3.9963" to 3.9973" 4.001" to 4.002" 4.0138" to 4.0158" 292 3.8740" to 3.8750" 3.8938" to 3.8958" 3.9038" to 3.9058" Metric Conversion: 1" = 25.4mm DISTRIBUTOR LOWER BUSHING INSPECTION and Distributor lower bearing is a bronze bushing pressed into lower side of engine block. Its upper inside diameter pilots distributor shaft, and outside diameter (extending below block) pilots oil pump. Some engines have a thrust washer at upper end of bushing bore. Thrust washer, where used, may be replaced a: same time bushing is replaced. Lower bushing ordinarily will require only a clearance or wear check during engine overhaul. When distributor shaft-to-bushing clearance exceeds .0035", replace bush ing as follows with oil pump NOTE: Later distributors use housing. Measuring clearancebushing and distributor shaftis undercut. and distributor removed: a bushing in distributor between cylinder block is not needed, since shaft REPLACEMENT 1. Install Tool J-9534 into bushing and remove bushing with a slide hammer. (Figure 3) 2. Clean bushing bore in block and check for burrs or damage. 3. Use Tool J-9535 with driver-bolt in driver handle to install driver into new bushing from large inside diameter. 4. Position bushing and driver to block and drive bushing in position (Figure 4), which is determined by tool bottoming against block. 5. Remove tool from bushing. It is possible that bushing with minimum inside diameter will collapse enough during installation to slightly seize installer arbor. If this happens, remove installer tool with slide hammer in driver bolt hole of driver handle. NOTE: This will not damage bushing, and tool is de signed for this purpose, should it occur. Figure 3. Removing Distributor Lower Bearing Figure 4. Install Distributor Lower Bearing SA-30 -ENGINE OIL NOZZLE REPLACEMENT 1. Remove nozzle with pliers. (Figure 5) 2. Drive new nozzle in place (oil hole in vertical position) with a suitable light plastic or rubber hammer. Figure 5. Oil Nozzle Replacement 01614 OIL FILTER BYPASS VALVE and REPLACEMENT With oil filter removed, check spring and fibre valve for operation. Inspect for a cracked or broken valve. If replacement is necessary, pry valve out with screwdriver. Install and seat a new valve by tapping in place with a 9/16 thin-wall deep socket. (Figure 6) Figure 6. Oil Filter By-Pass Valve ENGINE - 58-454 J SECTION 5 - ENGINE PART B - ENGINE MECHANICAL, IN-LINE 60-80-90 INDEX Page Removing Inner Transom Plate 5B-1 Intake Manifold - "60" and "90" 5B-1 Exhaust Manifold - "60" and "90" 5B-1 Intake/Exhaust Manifold - "80 " 5B-2 Rocker Arm Cover 5B-2 Valve Adjustment 5B-2 Rocker Arm Assemblies 5B-3 Valve Mechanism 5B-3 Cylinder Head - "60 " Model 5B-4 Cylinder Head - "80" and "90" 5B-5 Cylinder Head and Valve Reconditioning - "60-80-90" . 5B-6 Oil Pan 5B-9 Oil Pump - "60" 5B-9 Oil Pump - "80" and "90" 5B-10 Piston and Connecting Rod 5B-1 2 Piston Rings 5B-14 CyI inder Liners 5B-15 Flywheel - "60" 5B-1 6 Flywheel - "80" and "90" 5B-16 Crankshaft 5B-1 7 Bearing and Journal Inspection 5B-17 Main Bearing Clearance...................... 5B-18 Connecting Rod Bearing 5B-19 Crankshaft End Play 5B-20 Rear Seal Replacement - "60 " 5B-20 Rear Seal Replacement - "80 " and "90 " 5B-20 Crankshaft Front Flywheel and Alternator - "60 " Only .................... 5B-21 Cylinder Block Front Cover - "60 " 5B-21 Cylinder Block Front Cover "80 " and "90 " 5B-21 Chain Tensioner 5B-22 Camshaft and Timing Chain - "60 " 5B-22 Camshaft, Timing and Sprockets - "80 " and "90" . . . ......................... 5B-24 Camshaft Gear Replacement - "80 " and "90 " 5B-25 Cylinder Block ............ 5B-25 REMOVING INNER TRANSOM PLATE 1. Remove engine from boat. 2. Remove inter-lock bolt and nut (located at base of inner trar.som plate) and disconnect wires and harness leads (attached to transom plate). 3. Remove water inlet hose from rear of engine block. 4. Loosen clamp which secures rubber exhaust bellows to exhaust manifold. 5. Remove screws which secure lower engine mounts to inner transom plate. (Figure 1) 6. Remove large nut on Ride-Guide steering tube and remove tube from tube support. 7. Pull out and down on transom plate to remove from engine. 8. Remove large washers (located on each side of Ride- Guide tube support). 9. Remove screws and nuts, which secure upper engine mount to cylinder head, and remove engine mount bracket. INTAKE MANIFOLD - "60" and "90" REMOVAL 1. Remove choke heat tube or rod and fuel inlet line. 2. Remove throttle cable and inlet fuel line clamp. 3. Remove crankcase ventilation hose from valve cover and cooling line from bottom of manifold. 4. Remove manifold attaching nuts and lift off manifold assembly. 5. If replacing manifold, transfer carburetor and throttle linkage to new manifold, using new gaskets. CLEANING and INSPECTION Install Gasket so Hole Is Open 1. Clean gasket material from all surfaces and wash parts in solvent. 2. Inspect all parts carefully. Machined surfaces must be clean and free of all marks or deep scratches, or water Figure 2. Intake Manifold Gasket Hole Location - "90" leaks may result. 3. Check water passages for sand, silt or foreign material. 2. Position gaskets and manifold on cylinder head and Passages must be clean for efficient cooling. secure with attaching nuts. (Be sure that intake man 4. If more thorough inspection is desired, remove pipe ifold gaskets are positioned so that only hole shown plugs from exhaust manifold elbow and exhaust pipe in Figure 2 is open for cooling water on "90".) elbow. 3. Install crankcase ventilation hose in valve cover and cooling line to inlet in bottom manifold. INSTALLATION 4. Install throttle cable and inlet fuel line clamp. 5. Install choke heat tube or rod and carburetor fuel inlet. 1. Clean gasket surfaces. EXHAUST MANIFOLD - "60" and "90" REMOVAL CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Remove attaching bolts which secure electrical panel 1. Clean gasket material from all surfaces and wash to manifold. parts in solvent. 2. Remove cooling hoses and choke assembly ("60" 2. Inspect all parts carefully. Machined surfaces must be only). clean and free of all marks or deep scratches, or water 3. Remove exhaust outlet hose. leaks may result. 4. Remove attaching bolts and stud nuts, then manifold. 3. Check water passages for sand, silt or foreign material. ENGINE - 58-454 Passages must be clean for efficient cooling. 2. Clean gasket surfaces. 4. If more thorough inspection is desired, remove pipe 3. Slide gasket and manifold on studs of cylinder head plugs from exhaust manifold elbow and exhaust pipe and secure with attaching bolts and nuts. elbow. 4. Install cooling hoses and wiring harness clamp. INSTALLATION 5. Install exhaust hose. 1. If replacing manifold body, transfer all components to new body. 6. Install electrical panel attaching bolts. INTAKE/EXHAUST MANIFOLD - "80" REMOVAL 3. Check water passages for sand, silt or foreign material. Passages must be clean for efficient cooling. 1. Remove manifold cooling hoses. 4. If more thorough inspection is desired, remove pipe 2. Remove complete wiring harness and electrical complugs from exhaust manifold elbow and exhaust pipe ponent bracket from manifold. elbow. 3. Remove manifold attaching nuts. Remove manifold and carburetor as an assembly. 4. If replacing manifold body, transfer all components INSTALLATION to new body. 1. Clean all gasket surfaces. CLEANING and INSPECTION 2. Position new gasket and manifold on head and secure with attaching nuts. 1. Clean gasket material from all surfaces and wash parts in solvent. 3. Install complete wiring harness and electrical com2. Inspect all parts carefully. Machined surfaces must be ponent bracket. clean and free of all marks or deep scratches, or water leaks may result. 4. Install manifold cooling hoses. ROCKER ARM COVER REMOVAL INSTALLATION 1. Remove crankcase ventilation hose (and spark plug 1. Clean gasket surfaces. 2. Position valve cover and gaskets properly on cylinder leads on "90 " only). head. 3. Secure valve cover with retaining nuts. 2. Remove valve cover retaining nuts and lift off valve 4. Install spark plugs leads ("90 " only) and crankcase cover. ventilation hose. VALVE ADJUSTMENT ENGINE RUNNING I\OTE: Complete the following procedure (performed with engine at normal operating temperature) only if readjustment is required. 1. Remove valve cover and install valve cover with cutout top to prevent oil from running out. 2. Kith engine running at idle, loosen rocker arm nut and turn adjustment screw until feeler gauge can be inserted between rocker arm and valve stem. (Figure 3) Adjust "80" and "90" valves with Tool C-91-47160. 3. Insert feeler gauge of correct thickness. 4. Turn rocker arm nut down until light drag is felt on feeler gauge for correct valve lash. Figure 3. Valve Adjustment 5A-2 - ENGINE \ 0IE: Be sure to distinguish between intake valves and exhaust valves. as each requires a different clearance. (Figure 3J .•>. Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4 to adjust remaining valves. 6. Install valve cover and new gasket. ENGINE STOPPED 1. Remove valve cover. 2. Crank engine until proper valve is open and adjust 2 valves listed in adjustment sequence, following: VALVE ADJUSTMENT SEQUENCE VALVE OPEN ADJUST VALVES EXHAUST INTAKE EXHAUST 1 3 4 3 4 2 4 2 1 2 1 3 3. Adjust valves by inserting a feeler gauge of specified thickness between rocker arm and valve stem. (Figure 4) ROCKER AR DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove pin or keeper from rocker arm mount. 2. Slide shaft out of mount. 3. Mark position of rocker arms for reinstallation in same position. CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Check for excessive wear between rocker arm shafts and rocker arms (minimum .006" L.016mirQ, maximum .002" r.052mm-]). Figure 4. Valve Figure 5. Valve Location - "60" and "80" Location -"90" NOTE: Valve specifications differ for intake and exhaust valves. See Figure 5 or 6 for valve identification. 4. Install valve cover. 5. Run engine until warm and recheck valve clearances. If incorrect, adjust as outlined under, "Valve Adjustment, Engine Running", preceding. ASSEMBLIES 2. Clean all oil passages in rocker arm shafts and mounts. REASSEMBLY 1. Position rocker arms in original location with shaft springs. 2. Slide rocker arm shaft in thru rocker arm mount and rocker arms. 3. Locate pin or keeper thru rocker arm mount and rocker arm shaft. VALVE MECHANISM REMOVAL 1. Remove valve cover. 2. Remove bolts which secure rocker arm shafts. 3. Remove push rods and keep in order for reinstallation in same position. 4. Lift off rocker arm and shaft assemblies. CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Check all components removed for nicks, grooves, roughness or excessive wear. 2. Visually check push rods for straightness (while they are installed in engine) by rotating rods with valve closed. Rods also may be checked with a dial indicator. INSTALLATION 1. Install rocker arms and torque bolts to specifications (in sequence, "90 " only). 2. Loosen rocker arms and install push rods in original positions. 3. Adjust valve clearance with engine NOT running, as outlined. 4. Install valve cover with new gasket. ENGINE - 5A-3 CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL 1. Remove engine from boat and remove inner transom plate. 2. Remove intake manifold as outlined previously. 3. Remove exhaust manifold as outlined, preceding. 4. Remove distributor cap and wires as an assembly. 5. Mark position of rotor and remove distributor. 6. Remove cylinder head attaching bolts. 7. Remove rocker arm assembly and valve mechanism. 8. Drive cylinder head sideways to prevent damaging seals below cylinder liner. 9. Lift off cylinder head. 10. Install cylinder liner retainer bolts and washers. (Figure 1) 11. If replacing cylinder head, transfer all components to new head. Figure 1. Cylinder Liner Retaining Bolts - "60" MODEL INSTALLATION 1. Remove cylinder liner retaining washers and bolts. Place cylinder head gasket in position (beaded edge toward cvlincer block). Figure 2. Cylinder Head Torquing Sequence 2. Place cylinder head in position, carefully aligning with locating dowel. 3. Install cylinder head fasteners and torque to specifications in sequence shown in Figure 2. CAUTION: Exercise extreme care while tightening head bolts to protect threads in aluminum block. 4. Install rocker arm and shaft assembly and position rocker arms over push rods. 5. Install fasteners and washers and tighten securely. 6. Adjust rocker arm clearance as outlined previously. 7. Install rocker arm cover. IMPORTANT: Cylinder head MUST be retorqued after running. 5B- 4- ENGIN E CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL 1. Remove engine from boat and remove inner transom plate. 2. Remove intake manifold as outlined. NOTE: Intake and exhaust manifolds are combined on "80". 3. Remove exhaust manifold as outlined, preceding. 4. Remove distributor cap and wires as an assembly. 5. Mark position of rotor and remove distributor. 6. Remove cylinder head attaching bolts. 7. Remove rocker arm assembly and valve mechanism. 8. Drive cylinder head sideways to prevent damaging seals below cylinder liner. 9. Lift off cylinder head. 10. Install cylinder liner retainer bolts and washers. (F igure 3) 11. If replacing cylinder head, transfer all components to new head. Figure 3. Cylinder Liner Retoining Bolts INSTALLATION 1. Remove cylinder liner retaining washers and bolts. Place cylinder head gasket in position (beaded edge toward cylinder block). 2. Install proper cylinder head positioning tool (listed below) in location shown in Figure 4. HEAD INSTALLATION TOOLS "80" C-91-46956 "90" C-91-58595 "80" and "90" 3. Fit rubber gasket around camshaft recess without overlapping head gasket at ends. Figure 4. Head Gasket Positioning IMPORTANT: Correct cylinder head alignment is necessary for distributor pinion and valve train alignment. Figure 5. Cylinder Head Torquing Sequence 4. Place cylinder head in position, aligning with locating tool. 5. Install cvlinder head screws and washers and torque to specifications in sequence shown in Figure 5. Model "90 " head screws also secure rocker arm assembly. CAUTION: Exercise extreme care while tightening head bolts to protect threads in aluminum block. 6. Install rocker arm push rods. 7. Install rocker arm and shaft assembly and position rocker arms over push rods. 8. Install fasteners and washers and tighten securely. 9. Adjust rocker arm clearance as outlined. 10. Install rocker arm cover. IMPORTANT: Cylinder head MUST be retorqued after running. ENGINE -SA-5 CYLINDER HEAD and VALVE RECONDITIONING "60 Condition of cylinder head and valve mechanism significantly determines power, performance and economy of a valve-in-head engine. Exercise extreme care when conditioning cylinder head and valves to maintain correct valve stem to guide clearance, correctly ground valves, correct valve seat width and correct valve adjustment. DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove rocker arms and shaft as an assembly. (Figure 1) 01747 Figure 1. Removing Valves 2. Compress valve springs with valve spring compressor and remove valve keys. NOTE: Intake and exhaust valve keys are not identical and must not be mixed. 3. Release spring compressor and remove spring caps, valve springs and base washers. (Figure 2) 4. Remove valves from bo:tom of cylinder head and place valves in a rack in correct sequence for reassembly in original positions. 5. Remove valve tappets. CLEANING 1. Clean all carbon from combustion chambers and valve ports. 2. Thoroughly clean valve guides. 3. Clean all carbon and sljdge from push rods and rocker arms. 4. Clean valve stems and heads on a buffing wheel. 5. Clean carbon deposits from head gasket mating surfaces. 5A-6 - ENGINE 80 - 90" 6. Wash all parts in cleaning solvent and dry- them thoroughly. INSPECTION 1. Inspect cylinder head for cracks in exhaust ports, combustion chambers or external cracks to water chamber. 2. Inspect valves for burned heads, cracked faces or damaged stems. 3. Check cylinder head mating surface for possible warping or distortion. (Figure 2) Maximum permissable distortion is .002" (.051mm). NOTE: Reface head if bowed beyond .002". 4. If valve guide wear is excessive, replace valve guide. NOTE: Excessive valve stem to bore clearance will cause lack of power, rough idling and noisy valves and may cause valve breakage. Insufficient clearance will result in noisy and sticky valves and rough engine operation. 5. Check individual intake and exhaust valve springs under free length and under load length. Use lengths listed in engine specifications (Section 8) for checks. NOTE: If spark plug hole thread is stripped, install 14mm heli-coil insert (C-92-45831) in cylinder head hole. Figure 2. Cylinder Head Flat Surface RECONDITIONING REPLACING VALVE GUIDE 1. Position cylinder head on wedge and press valve guide out with mandrel. 2. Check outer diameter of guide and determine if it is standard or oversize. Use engine specifications for sizes. 3. Replacement guide must be one size larger than valve guide that has been removed. Ream cvlinder head guide hole with a reamer corresponding to new valve guide outer diameter. (Figure 3) VALVE GUIDE TOOLS TOOL "60" "80-90" Wedge C-91-37023 C-91-46803 Mandrel C-91-39284A1 C-91-46773 Head Reamer C-91-37002A1 C-91-46777 Gu ide Reamer C-91-37002A1 C-91-46778 4. Coat press-fit area of guide with Super-Duty Gear Lubricant (C-92-52650). Install new guide with mandrel. Tool should bottom on head. 5. Ream new guide with reamer to bring internal diameter to correct size. (Figure 4) NOTE: After changing a guide, it is absolutely necessary to regrind the corresponding valve seat. Cylinder Head Reamer 03039 Figure 3. Reaming Cylinder Head Valve Guide Reamer j* VALVE SEAT (CYLINDER HEAD) Seating of valves must be perfect for engine to deliver power and performance built into it. Another important factor is cooling of valve heads. Good contact between each valve and its seat in head is imperative to ensure that heat in valve head is properly carried away. Carefully follow recommendations of manufacturer of equipment (for reseating valve seats) to attain proper results. Regardless of what type of equipment is used, however, it is essential that valve guides be free from carbon or dirt to assure proper centering of pilot in guide. 1. Install expanding pilot in valve guide bore and expand pilot by tightening nut on top of pilot. 2. Place roughing stone or forming stone over pilot and just clean up valve seat. Use a 45° stone for inlet and exhaust valve seats. 3. Remove roughing stone or forming stone from pilot, install finishing stone on pilot and cut just enough metal from seat to provide a smooth finish. 4. Narrow down valve seats to proper width, according to specifications, by grinding port side with a 30° stone to lower seat and a 60° stone to raise seat. 5. Remove expanding pilot and clean cylinder head carefully to remove all chips and grinding from above operations. NOTE: Valve seats should be concentric to within .002" (.051mm) total indicator reading. (Figure 5) Figure 4. Reaming Valve Guide Figure 5. Checking Valve Seat Concentricity VALVES Reface pitted valves to proper angle, insuring correct relation between head and stem on a valve refacing machine. \alve stems which show excessive wear, or valves that are warped excessively, should be replaced. When a valve head, which is warped excessively, is refaced, a knife edge will be ground on part or all of valve head due to amount of metal that must be removed to completely reface. Knife edges lead to breakage, burning or preignition when heat localizes on this knife edge. If edge ENG1N E - 5B-7 of valve head is less than l/32': (.795mm) thick after grinding, replace valve. 1. If necessary, dress valve refacing machine grinding wheel to make sure it is smooth and true. Set chuck at 45° mark for grinding valves. 2. Clamp valve stem in chuck of machine. 3. Start grinder and move valve head out in line with grinder wheel by moving lever to left. 4. Turn feed screw until valve head just contacts wheel. Move valve back and forth across wheel and regulate feed screw to provide light valve contact. 5. Continue grinding until valve face is true and smooth all around valve. If this makes valve head thin, valve must be replaced, as valve will overheat and burn. 6. Remove valve from chuck and place stem in "V " block. Feed valve squarely against grinding wheel to grind any pit from rocker arm end of stem. NOTE: Only extreme end of valve stem is hardened to resist wear. Do not grind end of stem excessively. 7. After cleaning valve face and cylinder head valve seat of grinding particles, make pencil marks about 1/4" apart across valve face, place valve in cylinder head and give valve 1/2 turn in each direction while exerting firm pressure on face of valve. 8. Remove valve and check face carefully. If all pencil marks have not been removed at point of contact with valve seat, it will be necessary to repeat refacing operation and again recheck for proper seating. 9. Grind and check remaining valves in same manner. REASSEMBLY 1. Starting with No. 1 cylinder, place exhaust valve in port and place base washer, valve spring and cap in position. (Figure 6) NOTE: Place valve springs in position with closed coil end toward cylinder head, then compress spring and install valve keys. Be sure that keys seat properly in valve stem groove. NOTE: Intake and exhaust valve keys are not identical. Be sure to install correct keys on correct valves. (Figure 7) 2. Install remaining valves in the same manner. 3. Install valve tappets. Figure 7. Valve Keys Figure 6. Valve Spring Installation 0611 1 SB-8 - ENGINE OIL PAN REMOVAL 2. Install oil pan gasket with Perfect Seal No. 4 (C-9234227- 1). 1. Remove attaching screws. 2. Dislodge pan from cylinder block and remove. 3. Install oil pan and screws. Tighten screws evenly to INSTALLATION avoid distorting oil pan and/or gasket. 1. Cut off 2 main bearing side seals flush with cylinder block. Refer to Figure 5. preceding (except "60"). 4. Install camshaft cover plate and gasket, if so equipped. OIL PUMP - MERCRUISER "60 " 1. Oil pump (Figure 1) consists of 2 gears and a pressure INSPECTION (Figure 1) relief valve enclosed in a 2-piece housing and driven from distributor drive shaft which, in turn, is driven 1. Inspect pump body for cracks or excessive wear. 2. Inspect oil pump gears for excessive wear or damage. by a helix gear on camshaft. 2. Oil pump is flange-mounted to cylinder block with NOTE: If clearance between the pinion and pump body 3 bolts. is over .008" (0.2mm), change drive pinion, shaft and 3. Oil pressure passes thru opening in mounting flange to idle gear. cylinder block, then into full flow oil filter. 4. Pump cover is equipped with pressure regulator valve 3. Check shaft for condition of spline and for loose fit which regulates oil pressure at approx. 50 PSI (3.515 in housing. kg/cm2) at 4000 RPM. 4. Check cover parting face and resurface the face if 5. Pump intake is fixed screen type. A mesh screen filters worn or scored. out any small particles of dirt and sludge. 5. In case of insufficient oil pressure, check condition of ball and seat and replace pressure regulator spring. REMOVAL REASSEMBLY (Figure 1) 1. Remove oil pan. 2. Remove 3 attaching bolts from cylinder block and 1. Install drive pinion and shaft and idle gear in pump remove oil pump. body. 2. Install regulator spring, ball and seat in pump body. DISASSEMBLY - "60" 3. Compress regulator spring and install cover. Tighten screws evenly to prevent distortion. 1. Remove pump cover attaching screws. Be careful when 4. Check that shaft turns freely after reassembly. separating cover from body, as pressure regulator spring, seat and ball are under compression. (Figure 1) INSTALLATION 2. Remove drive pinion and shaft and idle gear. (Figure 1) 1. Install oil pump with new gasket and secure with 3 3. Wash all parts in cleaning solvent and dry with com-attaching bolts. pressed air. 2. Install oil pan. Figure 1. Oil Pump Components ENGI NE - 5B-9 OIL PUMP -"80" and "90" 1. Oil pump (Figure 2) consists of 2 rotors and a pressure relief valve enclosed in a one-piece housing and driven from distributor drive shaft which, in turn, is driven by a helix gear on camshaft. 2. Pump body is part of the cylinder block. •3. Oil pressure passes thru opening to cylinder block, then into full flow oil filter. Figure 2. Oil Pump Components 4. Pump cover is equipped with pressure regulator valve which regulates oil pressure at approx. 50 PSI (3.52 kg 'cm2) at 4000 RPV1. 5. Pump intake is fixed-screen type. A mesh screen filters out any small particles of dirt and sludge. REMOVAL 1. Remove oil pan. 2. Remove oil pump cover attaching screws and remove cover assembly. 3. Pull oil pump rotors out of cylinder block. (Figure 3) Figure 3. Oil Pump Rotors DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove pump retaining cotter pin. Be careful when removing pin from cover, as the pressure regulator spring valve, etc, are under compression. (Figure 2) 2. Bend tab washers on pickup tube attaching screws and remove screws. CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Inspect pump body for cracks or excessive wear. 2. Inspect oil pump gears for excessive wear or damage by placing outer rotor into cylinder block and checking clearances. Clearance "A " (Figure 4) Min. .004" (.10mm) Max. .010" (,25mm) Clearance "B " (Figure 5) Min. .003" (,07mm) Max. .007" (,18mm) If clearances are excessive, replace both rotors. 3. Check shaft for condition of spline and for looseness in housing. Oil Pump Rotors I Figure 4. Clearance "A 4. Check cover parting face and resurface face if worn or scored. NOTE: Insufficient oil pressure may be caused by weak pressure regulator spring or by improper seating of check valve. 5. Wash all parts in cleaning solvent and dry with compressed air. REASSEMBLY 1. Install oil screen pickup tube and secure screws with tab washers, if previously removed. 5A-10 -ENGINE 570 2. Install regulator spring, valve, etc, in pump cover. NOTE: There have been instances where oil pump in engine has become loose, thus causing a loss in oil pressure on MerCruiser "80" Engines between Engine Serial No. 2049045 and 2050044. 3. Position cover on cylinder block and secure with attaching bolts. INSTALLATION 1. Install oil pump rotors in cylinder block. 2. Place oil pump cover in position on cylinder block and secure with attaching screws. 3. Install oil pan. Figure 5. Clearance "B " 570 ENGINE - 58-454 PISTON and CONNECTING ROD REMOVAL 1. Remove cylinder head as outlined. 2. Disconnect connecting rod cap tube which is removed from crankshaft. 3. Push cylinder liner, connecting rod and piston as an assembly out top of cylinder block. NOTE: Mark each component removed for reinstallation in same location. DISASSEMBLY 1. Install pilot of piston pin with Removing and Installing Tool on piston pin. 2. Install piston and connecting rod assembly on support and place assembly in an arbor press. (Figure 1) Press Figure 1. Removing Piston Pin 3. Remove assembly from press, remove piston pin from support and remove tool from piston and rod. PISTON PIN TOOL "60" C-91-37011 "80" C-91-46771 "90" C-91-46771 INSPECTION 1. Check condition of connecting rod, using dummy shaft and a connecting rod checking device. 2. Straighten connecting rod, if necessary. REASSEMBLY (MerCruiser "60" Only) 1. Prior to installation of the MerCruiser''60" piston pin, the following operation in necessary. Piston is externally spot faced at one of its 2 reamed bores. On spot faced opening and on opposite side, cut a slight chamfer (.016" to .020" [3-4mm to .5mmH) with a chamfering tool as follows: SB- 12 - ENGI NE a. Engage tool-holder (3) between 2 piston openings, tool cutter toward hole to be chamfered. (Figure 2) b. Screw installing mandrel (1), fitted with dummy shaft (2), in tool holder. (Figure 2) c. Cut a regular chamfer, lightly turning and pressing knurled mandrel. d. Check that piston pin rotates correctly inside corresponding new piston. 2. Place new piston pin in installing mandrel (1 in Figure 3). Screw aligning bushing (2) onto installing mandrel. DO NOT TIGHTEN. Coat piston pin with engine oil. Figure 3. Preparing Piston Pin 3. Dip connecting rod small end in a container of boiling water (100°C or 212°F). NOTE: A 250°C (482°F) electric oven is preferred to boiling water. (Figure 4) 4. Following operations should be carried out rapidly to reduce heat loss to a minimum (particularly when using boiling water): a. Manually fit guide-shaft-mandrel assembly in piston and connecting rod small end until piston pin contacts connecting rod. NOTE: Reference arrow on piston must face up and number on connecting rod large end must face to right side. 04992 Figure 4. Heating Connecting Rod b. Place piston and rod assembly on support block fitting guide, making sure that piston spotfacing is aligned with guide collar. c. Using an arbor press, press mandrel until aligning bushing contacts bottom of fitting guide. (Figure 5) Figure 5. Assembling and Installing Piston, Pin and Connecting Rod NOTE: Depth of guide bore is designed to obtain correct alignment oj connecting rod in reference to piston pin. INSTALLATION 1. Install piston ar.d connecting rod assembly in cylinder liner with suitable ring compressor. He sure that pistons and rings are oiled and ring gaps are spaced around piston at 120°. Install piston thru bottom of piston liner, as shown. 2. Install connecting rod-piston-liner assemblies, paving particular attention to reference marks and No. 1 at flywheel end. Arrows on piston tops should point toward flyv.heel end. 3. Install bottom seals on cylinder liners and place cylinder liners in cylinder block. (Figure 6) NOTE: Be careful not to damage paper seals uhen installing. If installation difficulty is experienced, place seals under a wet cloth to make pliable. F igure 6. Checking Height of Cylinder Liner 4. Press down on liners by hand. Use a scale and feeler gauge. (Figure 6) Cylinder liner must protrude between specifications, obtained with cylinder liner base gaskets of various thicknesses (.003" [~.07mmH and .004" .10mm). Take measurements at 2 points opposite one another on each side of liner. Difference should not be over .001" (,025mm). If over .001", turn liner 180° and recheck. (Metric conversion: 1" = 25.4mm) 0302S Figure 7. Installing Piston in Cylinder Liner 5. Install cylinder liner retaining washers and bolts. 6. When installing connecting rod caps and inserts on their respective connecting rods, check bearing clearances. 570 ENGINE - 53-13 Figure 8. Installing Cylinder Liner Assemblies PISTON Piston rings are available in standard size only. Top compression ring is chrome plated; second compression ring is plain. Third ring is the oil control ring. 1. Remove piston rings by expanding them and sliding them off ends of pistons. 2. Carefully remove all particles of carbon from ring grooves in piston and inspect grooves carefully for burrs or nicks that might cause rings to hang up. 3. Slip outer surface of compression ring into piston ring groove and roll ring entirely around groove to make sure that ring is free and does not bind in groove at any point. (Figure 9) If binding occurs, cause should be determined and corrected by carefully dressing with a fine file. However, if binding is caused by a distorted ring, install a new ring. 4. Flex oil ring assembly in its groove to make sure ring is free and does not bind in groove at any point. If binding occurs, determine cause and correct by carefully dressing with a fine cut file. If binding is caused by a distorted ring, however, install a new ring. 5. Proper clearance of piston ring in its piston ring groove is very important in maintaining engine performance and in preventing excessive oil consumption. Therefore, when fitting new rings, clearances between top and bottom surfaces of ring grooves should be inspected. RINGS Figure 9. Rolling Ring in Ring Groove 6. Assemble rings to pistons as they are fitted and make a final test of ring fit in grooves by repeating fitting procedure given above. NOTE: Be sure to fit each ring to its individual piston and groove for proper groove clearance. 7. Oil rings and space gaps around piston at 120°. 5B- 14 - ENGIN E CYLINDER LINERS INSPECTION 1. Check cylinder walls for taper, out-of-round or excesssive ridge at top of ring travel with a dial indicator. Set gauge so that thrust pin must be forced in about 1/4" (6.35mm) to enter gauge in cylinder bore. Center gauge in cylinder and turn dial to "0" . Carefully work gauge up and down cylinder to determine taper and turn it to different points around cylinder wall to determine out-of-round condition. Replace cylinder if more than .002" (0.05mm) out-of-round. 2. If cylinder liner inspection indicates that cylinders are suitable for continued use, except for out-of-round or tapered condition, they can be conditioned by honing. HONING 1. First use rough stones, then fine stones for final operation. Hone only enough to remove all cylinder wall glaze. Unless cylinder wall glaze is removed, new- rings will not seat properly. 2. Place all cylinder liners in block and secure cylinder liner to be honed with 2 retaining washers (C-12-32757) and suitable bolts. (Figure 10) 3. Place hone into cylinder bore and expand stones until hone can just be turned by hand. Connect a 1/2" electric drill to hone and drive hone at drill speed while moving hone up and down entire length of cylinder until hone begins to run free. During this operation, use a liberal amount of kerosene as a cutting fluid to keep stones clean. Move hone slowly up and down with rough stones but move hone up and down as rapidly as possible with fine stones in final operation. Final bore finish shouldshow very fine surface scratches in a cross-hatch pattern. 4. Expand stones against cylinder bore and repeat honing Figure 10. Honing Cylinder Liner operation until all cylinder wall glaze is removed. (Figure 10) 5. Hone remaining cylinders in same manner. 6. Thoroughly clean cylinder bores with hot water and soap. Scrub well with a stiff bristle brush and rinse thoroughly with hot water. It is necessary that a good cleaning operation be performed. If any of the abrasive material is allowed to remain in cylinder bores, it will rapidly wear new rings and cylinder bores in addition to bearings lubricated by contaminated oil. Bores should be swabbed several times with light engine oil and a clean cloth, then wiped with a clean, dry- cloth. DO NOT clean cylinders with kerosene or gasoline. Clean remainder of cylinder block to remove excess material spread during honing operation. 570 ENGINE -58-15 FLYWHEEL -"60" REMOVAL 2. On initial installation, and whenever a stern drive unit is removed, engine coupling splines must be lubricated 1. Remove engine from boat. with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). Spline 2. Remove inner transom plate. mating surfaces will wear very rapidly if installed dry. 3. Remove flywheel housing. FLYWHEEL 4. Remove coupler retaining nuts and slide coupler and flywheel off crankshaft studs. Check flywheel ring gear for worn or missing teeth. INSPECTION INSTALLATION COUPLER 1. Position coupler and flywheel on crankshaft studs and 1. Failure of engine coupling assembly spline and/or secure with elastic stop nuts. universal splined shaft is caused by lack of sufficient 2. Install flywneel housing and inner transom plate. lubrication at time of installation. 3. Install engine in boat. Figure 1. Flywheel Removal SB-16 - EN GIN E FLYWHEEL - "80" and "90" REMOVAL 5. Remove elastic stop nuts which secure alternator rotor to flywheel. Slide alternator rotor and flywheel off 1. Remove engine from boat. crankshaft studs. 2. Remove inner transom plate. 3. Use socket and extension thru coupler splines to INSPECTION remove stop nut which secures coupler. COUPLER 4. Remove flywheel cover and flywheel housing with alternator stator. (Figure 1) Failure of engine coupling assembly spline and/or universal splined shaft is caused by lack of sufficient lubrication at time of installation. On initial installation and whenever a stern drive unit is removed, be sure to lubricate engine coupling splines with New Multi purpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). The spline mating sur faces will wear very rapdily if installed dry. FLYWHEEL Check flywheel ring gear for worn or missing teeth. INSTALLATION 1. Position flywheel and alternator rotor on crankshaft studs and secure with elastic stop nuts. 2. Install flywheel housing with alternator stator and flywheel cover. 3. Slide coupler into position in alternator stator on retaining bolt. Tighten coupler attaching nut thru coupler splines with socket and extension. 4. Install inner transom plate. 5. Install engine in boat. CRANKSHAFT 'EMOVAL 1. Remove engine from boat. Drain oil and water. 2. Remove inner transom plate and flywheel. 3. Install engine (inverted) on stand. 4. Remove oil pan and oil pump. 5. Remove cylinder block front cover as outlined. 6. Remove crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and automatic chain tensioner and slide crankshaft sprocket off crank . 7. Remove main bearing and connecting rod bearing caps. Remove thrust washers from centermain bearing. (Figure 1) Figure 1. Thrust Washers CLEANING 1. Handle crankshaft w ith care to avoid possible fractures or damage to finished surfaces. 2. Clean crankshaft with solvent, then blow out all oil passages with compressed air. •3. Use crocus cloth to remove any sharp edges or burrs which might damage oil seal during installation or cause premature seal wear. 4. Dress minor scores with an oil stone. If journals are severelv marred or exceed wear limit, refinish to size for next undersize bearing. REFINISHING JOURNALS 1. Refinish journals to give proper clearance with under- size bearings. If journal will not clean up with under- size bearings, replace crankshaft. Replacement crankshaft bearings are available in standard, .010" and .020" undersize (except "90" [[standard and .010" undersize only[]) for crank pins and main journals. 2. Always reproduce same journal shoulder radius that existed originally. Too small a radius results in fatigue failure of crankshaft. Too large a radius results in bearing failure due to radius ride of bearing. 3. After refinishing journals, chamfer oil holes, then polish journal with No. 320 grip polishing cloth and engine oil. Crocus cloth also may be used as a polishing agent. INSTALLATION 1. With cylinder block inverted, carefully place crankshaft on upper main bearings in cylinder block. 2. Install thrust washers. (Figure 1) 3. Install main bearing and connecting rod bearing caps. Check bearing clearances as outlined, preceding. 4. Install crankshaft sprocket and automatic chain tensioner as described previously. 5. Install cylinder block front cover. 6. Install oil pump and oil pan. 7. Install rear seal as outlined, preceding. 8. Install flywheel and inner transom plate. 9. Install engine in boat. BEARING and JOURNAL INSPECTION 1. Clean crankshaft and clear oil passages. In general, lower half of bearing shows greater wear and most distress from fatigue. If, upon inspection, lower half is acceptable, then upper half also is satisfactory. If lower half shows evidence of fatigue, distress, abrasion, erosion, scoring, etc, replace both upper and lower naives. Never replace one half only. 2. If running clearance of a bearing is too great with used inserts, install both upper and lower bearing halves then check crankshaft journals with a micrometer for out-of-round, taper or undersize. If out-of-round more than .001" (,025mm) or tapered, replace or recondition shaft. 3. Clearance increases from wear in main bearings is due not only to bearing wear, but also in part to crankshaft journal wear. Check these dimensions with a micrometer for out-of-round, taper or undersize. If journals exceed .001" (.025mm) out-of-round or taper, replace crankshaft or recondition to an undersize figure that allows installatior. of undersize presision tvpe bearings. (Figure 2) S70 4. Check crankshaft for runout. Support crankshaft at front and rear main bearing journals in "V " blocks and indicate runout of both rear intermediate and front intermediate journals with a dial indicator. Runout limit of each of these journals is .002" (,051mm). If runout exceeds .002" (.051mm), repair or replace crankshaft. Check for Out-of-Round at A vs B = Vertical Taper Each End of Journal C vs D = Horizontal Taper A vs C and B vs D = Out-of-Round Figure 2. Crankshaft Journal Measurement ENGINE - 53-17 MAIN BEARING CLEARANCE 1. Main bearings are precision, insert type and do not utilize shims for adjustment. If clcarances are excessive, a new standard or undersize bearing insert (both upper and lower halves) is required. 2. Plastigage, which may be used for checking clearances, is a wax-like plastic material that compresses evenly between bearing and journal surfaces without damaging either surface. (Figure 3) To obtain most accurate results with Plastigage, observe certain precautions. With engine out of boat and upside down, crankshaft rests on upper bearings, and total clearance can be measured between cap bearing and journal. 01764 Figure 3. Plastigage on Journal NOTE: To assure proper seating of crankshaft, remove rear main bearing oil seal and torque all bearing cap bolts. In addition, before checking fit of bearings, wipe surface of crankshaft journal and bearing clean of oil. 3. Starting with rear main bearing, remove bearing cap and wipe oil from journal and bearing cap. 4. Place a piece of Plastigage full width of bearing (parallel to crankshaft) on journal. (Figure 3) CAUTION: Do not rotate crankshaft while Plasti gage is between bearing and journal. 5. Install bearing cap and torque retaining bolts evenly to specifications. 6. Remove bearing cap. Flattened Plastigage adheres to either bearing shell of journal. There is a graduated scale on edge of Plastigage packing envelope which is correlated in thousands of an inch. 7. Without removing Plastigage, check its compressed width (at widest point) with graduations on Plastigage envelope. (Figure 4) NOTE: Normally, main bearing journals wear evenly and are not out-of-round, however, if bearing is being fitted to an out-of-round journal, be sure to fit to maximum diameter of journal. If bearing is fitted to minimum diameter of journal, and journal is out-ofround .001" (0.025mm) or more, interference between bearing and journal results in rapid bearing failure. If flattened Plastigage tapers toward middle or ends, there is a difference in clearance which indicates a taper, low spot or other irregularity of bearing or journal. Be sure to check journal with a micrometer, if flattened Plastigage indicates more than .001" (0.025mm) difference. 8. If bearing clearance is within specifications, the bearing insert is satisfactory. If clearance is not within these limits, replace insert. If clearance is still not witnin these limits, regrind crankshaft journal for use with next undersize bearing. 9. Proceed to next bearing. After all bearings have been checked, rotate crankshaft to check that no excessive drag exists. SB- 18 - ENGINE CONNECTING ROD BEARING CHECKING CRANKPIN CLEARANCE 1. Wipe bearing insert shell and crankpin clean of oil. 2. Place piece of Plastigage full width of bearing on crankpin (parallel to crankshaft). (Figure 5) Figure 7. Checking Connecting Rod Side Clearance plastic is not uniform from end-to-end in its width, crankpin or bearing is tapered, has a low spot or some other irregularity. Check crankpin with a micrometer for taper if flattened Plastigage indicates more than a .001" (0.025mm) difference. Figure 5. Plastigage on Crankpin 3. Reinstall bearing cap and torque retaining nuts evenly to specifications. CAUTION: Do not turn crankshaft wtih Plastigage installed. 5. New bearing shell insert clearance should be .003" (0.076mm) maximum and .001" (0.025mm) minimum. Rotate crankshaft after bearing adjustment to be sure that bearings are not too tight. 6. Check connecting rod and clearance between connecting rod cap and side of crankpin. (Figure 7) 4. Remove bearing cap and, without removing Plastigage, check its width at widest point with scale on Plastigage envelope. (Figure 6) NOTE: If crankpin is out-of-round, be sure to fit bearing to maximum diameter of crankpin. If flattened 7. Be certain that ail nuts are torqued to 21.7 ft. ib. (3mkg) and lock tabs are securely crimped. (Figure 8) Always use new lock tabs. 8. If clearances are not within these specifications, replace bearing with correct under-size bearing. NOTE: Insert bearing shells are not adjustable, and no attempt should be made to adjust by filing the bearing caps. ENGINE - 58-454 Figure 6. Measuring Plastigage on Crankpin CRANKSHAFT END PLAY 1. Force crankshaft toward rear of engine. 2. Install a dial indicator so that contact point rests against crankshaft flange and indicator axis is parallel to crankshaft axis. (Figure 1) 3. Zero dial indicator. Push crankshaft forward and note reading on dial. 4. If end play exceeds wear limit, replace thrust washers. If end play is less than minimum limit, inspect thrust washer faces for scratches, burrs, nicks or dirt. 5. Thrust washers are available in following thicknesses: .091" (2.30mm), .094" (2.40mm) and .096" (2.45mm). Figure 1. Checking Crankshaft End Play REAR SEAL REPLACEMENT - "60 " REMOVAL Be sure that seal surfaces are not damaged (to prevent leakage). 1. With flywheel and oil pan removed, loosen rear main bearing cap. 2. Loosen seal from around crankshaft and pull out seal. 2. Install rear main bearing cap and torque to specifications. INSTALLATION 1. Install new seal with lip facing toward inside of engine. 3- Install flywheel and oil pan as outlined. REAR SEAL REPLACEMENT - "80" and "90" REMOVAL INSTALLATION 1. Remove oil pan and flywheel. 1. Install new seal with lip facing toward inside of 2. Remove rear main bearing and cap attaching bolts and engine. Be sure that seal surfaces are not damaged drive cap. (Figure 2) (to prevent leakage). (Figure 2) 3. Pull out seal from around crankshaft. 2. Check rear main bearing cap and side seal groove clearances by measuring between bottom of seal groove and cylinder block. 3. If side seal clearance is less than .197" (5mm). use 2 seals .211" (535mm) thick. If side seal clearance is greater than .197" (5mm). use 2 seals 2.11" (5.35mm) thick. (Figure 3) 06124 03041 Figure 2. Rear Seal Replacement 5B-20 - ENGINE Figure 3. Side Seal Replacement 4. Place side seals in rear main bearing cap with grooves above locating faces on cylinder block side. in seals facing out. 6. Install rear main bearing caps with attaching bolts 5. Side seals should protrude approximately .008" (.203mm) and torque to specifications. CRANKSHAFT FRONT FLYWHEEL and ALTERNATOR "60' ONLY REMOVAL 1. Remove screw and washer which secure alternator flywheel to crankshaft. 2. Install flywheel puller (C-91-38835A1) and remove flywheel. (Figure 4) 3. Remove alternator stator. (Figure 5) 01731 Figure 4. Removing Alternator Flywheel Figure 5. Alternator Stator INSTALLATION 1. If alternator problems are present, check stator as outlined in electrical section. 2. Install alternator stator. (Figure 5) 3. Coat timing cover with thin layer of grease. 4. Install alternator flywheel and secure with retaining screw and washer. (Figure 4) CYLINDER BLOCK FRONT COVER - "60 " REMOVAL 1. Remove alternator flywheel and stator. 2. Remove cover attaching screws, then cover. 3. Clean gasket surfaces and discard gaskets. INSTALLATION 1. Inspect oil seal in timing chain cover and replace if necessary. Lips must face toward timing chain. Use suitable mandrel and press into position. (Figure 6) 2. Install timing chain cover and gasket but do not tighten screws. 3. Install alternator flywheel on crankshaft to align oil seal. 4. Tighten screws securely and remove flywheel. Figure 6. Installing Oil Seal in Timing Chain Cover 5. Install alternator stator and flywheel. CYLINDER BLOCK FRONT COVER - "80 " and "90 " REMOVAL INSTALLATION 1. Remove attaching bolts. 1. Clean gasket surfaces. 2. Remove cover. 2. Install cover with attaching bolts. 570 ENGINE - 5A-21 CHAIN TENSIONER REMOVAL INSTALLATION NOTE: On MerCruiser "60", remove and replace 1. Compress chain tensioner spring with No. 3 alien alternator flywheel and stator for this operation. wrench. Turn clockwise until slide enters support. 2. Install chain tensioner. 1. Remove timing chain cover. 3. Turn tensioner spring counterclockwise with alien 2. Compress chain tensioner and remove attaching screws. wrench to clear lug which must enter automatic play take-up groove. (Figure 2) 4. Install screw at back of support and fold down new- lock tab. 5. Install timing chain cover and gasket w'ith Perfect Seal No. 4 (C-92-3422-1) and tighten screws. Figure 1. Chain Tensioner Components Figure 2. Installing Chain Tensioner CAMSHAFT and TIMING CHAIN - "60 REMOVAL 1. Remove alternator flywheel and stator. 2. Remove cylinder head. 3. Remove cylinder block front cover. 5. Remove tappets and place them in a rack in proper sequence for reassembly in original positions. Figure 3. Removing Distributor Drive Pinion 4. Remove distributor and oil pump drive pinion with magnet or suitable scrcw. (Figure 3) Figure 4. Removing Chain Tensioner 6. Unlock and remove screw at back of tensioner. Release tension on chain with No. 3 alien wrench, then remove chain tensioner assembly. (Figure 4) 7. Bend back tab washer andlock screw. (Figure 4) 8. Remove camshaft sprocket, timing chain. Remove key 9. Remove 2 camshaft thrustcamshaft. (Figure 5) remove camshaft sprocket crankshaft sprocket and from crankshaft. (Fig. 4) plate screws and remove SC-22 - ENGINE 370 NOTE: Support camshaft carefully when removing to prevent damage to camshaft or block. Figure 5. Removing Camshaft INSTALLATION 1. Oil bearings and install camshaft. 2. Install thrust flange screws and tighten securely. 3. Install key in crankshaft. 4. Install drive sprocket on crankshaft. 5. Place camshaft sprocket in position and align the 2 sprocket reference marks with camshaft and crankshaft centerlines. 6- Remove camshaft sprocket and install timing chain and camshaft sprocket at the same time. Since chain is normally slack , reference mark line no longer aligns with camshaft axis. (Figure 6) S 03040 Figure 6. Installing Timing Chain 7. Tighten camshaft sprocket locking screw. In this position, valves on No. 4 cylinder both are partially- open and No. 1 piston is in firing position. 8. Bend and lock camshaft screw tab. 9. Install cylinder block front cover. 10. Install cylinder head. 11. Turn crankshaft until No. 1 piston is at top-deadcenter and in firing position. Valves on No. 4 cylinder both should be partially open and timing mark on alternator flywheel should be aligned with mark on timing chain cover. 12. With crankshaft in this position, install drive pinion so that slot in gear is at right angle to engine center line, and large offset is toward dipstick. (Figure 7) 13. Remove distributor cap and turn rotor so that it is pointed at No. 1 spark plug terminal of distributor cap. 14. Place distributor body in position in cylinder block. It may be necessary to turn rotor slightly to align drive slot. 15. Turn distributor body slightly until points just open and tighten distributor hold-down clamp. 16. Reinstall distributor cap and check that rotor is pointing at No. 1 spark plug terminal. NOTE: Some engines have large offset 180° from dipstick. Figure 7. Installing Distributor Drive Pinion CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Inspect bearing surfaces, cams and drive sprocket. 2. Check flange clearance with a feeler gauge. (Figure 8) If clearance is excessive, replace thrust plate and or spacer. Figure 8. Checking Flange Clearance 58-454 570 ENGINE CAMSHAFT, TIMING CHAIN and SPROCKETS " 80" and "90" REMOVAL 1. Remove cylinder head as outlined. 2. Remove cylinder block front cover. 3. Remove crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and automatic chain tensioner. 4. Remove distributor pinion gear. 5. Remove camshaft thrust bearing bolts thru holes in camshaft sprocket. (Figure 6) 6. Pull camshaft forward while guiding lobes over journal surfaces to prevent damage to cylinder block . It may be necessary to use a puller tool to dislodge crankshaft sprocket. Pull crankshaft sprocket and camshaft forward together for removal. 7. With crankshaft position as shown in Figure 11, install drive pinion so that slot in gear is positioned as shown in Figure 9 or 10. Place largest offset on camshaft side. Figure 11. Bolts Aligning Timing Marks and Installing Timing Chain INSTALLATION 1. Oil bearings and install camshaft. Install key in crankshaft and rotate until key is at top. 2. Do not completely install camshaft. Align sprocket timing marks with camshaft and crankshaft center lines. 3. Place timing chain over camshaft sprocket. 4. Place crankshaft sprocket on timing chain, aligning mark with cam and crankshaft centerline (Figure 11) While fitting crankshaft sprocket to crankshaft, use a soft mallet to seat sprocket and, at the same time, push on camshaft until sprocket is seated. 5. Install crankshaft thrust washer and bolt and torque to 45 ft. lbs. (6.2mkg). Install 2 camshaft flange bolts and tighten securely. 6. Install chain tensioner. This will cause timing marks to move off centerline. Figure 10. Installing Drive Pinion - "90 " 8. Install cylinder block front cover. 9. Install cylinder head as outlined. CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Inspect bearing surfaces, cams and drive sprocket. 2. Check flange clearance with a feeler gauge. (Figure 12) If clearance is excessive, replace thrust plate and or spacer. Figure 12. Checking Flange Clearance 58-24 - ENGI NE CAMSHAFT GEAR REPLACEMENT - "80" and "90" REMOVAL INSTALLATION 1. Place camshaft and sprocket assembly under a press. 1. Place camshaft and sprocket under a press. 2. Support sprocket with ring of same diameter. 2. Support camshaft under first bearing shoulder. 3. Press camshaft out of sprocket with a mandrel. (Fig3. Press sprocket onto camshaft. (Figure 14) ure 13) 4. Check thrust bearing clearance. Figure 13. Removing Camshaft Sprocket Figure 14. Installing Camshaft Sprocket CYLINDER CLEANING 1. If engine is disassembled, thoroughly clean block with solvent . 2. Remove old gasket material from all machined surfaces. 3. Remove all pipe plugs that seal oil passages, then clean out all passages. 4. Blowout all passages, bolt holes, etc, with compressed air. Make sure that threads in cylinder head bolt holes are clean. Dirt in threads may cause binding and result in a false torque reading. Use a tap to true-up threads and to remove any deposits. 5. Thoroughly clean grooves in crankshaft bearings and bearing retainers. BLOCK INSPECTION 1. After it is thoroughly cleaned, check block for cracks. Minute cracks (not visible to naked eye) may be detected by coating suspected area with mixture of 25% kerosene and 75% light engine oil. 2. Wipe part dry and immediately apply coating of zinc oxide dissolved in wood alcohol. If cracks are present, coating will become discolored at defective area. Replace block if cracked. 3. Check all machined gasket surfaces for burrs, nicks, scratches and scores. Remove minor imperfections with an oil stone. 4. Check cylinder block for flatness of cylinder head gasket surface, following procedure and specifications recommended for cylinder head. ENGINE - 5A-25 SECTION 5 - ENGINE PART C - ENGINE MECHANICAL, V-8 GM INDEX PAGE Tools 5C-1 General 5C-1 Rocker Arm Cover 5C-1 Removal . . 5C-1 Installation . •••••• . . 5C-1 Exhaust Manifolds 5C-2 Removal 5C-2 Cleaning and Inspection 5C-2 Installation • . 5C-2 Valve Mechanism 5C-3 Removal 5C-3 Installation . • • 5C-3 Adjustment 5C-3 Valve Adjustment - Engine Stopped (Except 409) . . ..................... 5C-3 Hydraulic Lifters 5C-3 Valve Adjustment - Engine Running 5C-3 Hydraulic Valve Lifters . ....... 5C-5 Locating Noisy Lifters 5C-5 Removal 5C-S Disassembly 5C-5 Cleaning and Inspection. . . 5C-5 Reassembly 5C-6 Installation 5C-6 Valve Stem Oil Seal and/or Valve Spring 5C-7 Replacement 5C-7 Cylinder Head 5C-8 Removal 5C-8 Installation 5C-8 Cylinder Head and Valve Conditioning 5C-9 Disassembly 5C-9 Cleani 5C-9 Inspection 5C-9 Rocker Arm Stud - Repairs Models 283, 327, 350 and. 409 5C-10 Rocker Arm Studs and Push Rod Guide - Repairs . . . Models 427 and 482 ................. 5C-11 Valve Guide Bores 5C-11 Valve Seats 5C-11 Valves 5C-12 Reassem bly 5C-12 Oil Pan 5C-14 Removal 5C-14 Installation 5C-14 Oil Pump 5C-15 Removal 5C-15 Disassembly 5C-15 Cleaning and Inspection. 5C-15 Reassembly 5C-15 Installation 5C-16 Torsional Damper 5C-17 Removal 5C-17 PAGE Installation 5C-17 Crankcase Front Cover ...... . 5C-18 Removal 5C-18 Installation 5C-18 Oil Seal 5C-18 Flywheel 5C-19 Removal 5C-19 Inspection 5C-19 Installation 5C-19 Engine Coupling 5C-19 Inspection 5C-19 Oil Seal (Rear Main) 5C-19 Replacement 5C-19 Main Bearings 5C-21 Inspection 5C-21 Checking Clearance 5C-21 Replacement 5C-22 Connecting Rod Beari ngs. . . 5C-23 Inspection and Replacement 5C-23 Connecting Rod and Piston Assemblies 5C-24 Removal 5C-24 Disassembly 5C-24 Cleaning and Inspection 5C-25 Piston Rings. 5C-25 Reassembly 5C-26 Installation 5C-27 Crankshaft 5C-29 Removal 5C-29 Cleaning and Inspection 5C-29 Installation ' 5C-29 Timing Chain and/or Sprockets 283, 327, 350 and 409 Models 5C-30 Repl acement . . 5C-30 Camshaft 5C-31 Measuring Lobe Lift. 5C-31 Removal .......... 5C-31 Installation 5C-32 Inspection 5C-32 Crankshaft Sprockets or Gears 5C-34 Removal 5C-34 Installation 5C-34 Camshaft Beari ngs 5C-35 Inspection • . • . 5C-35 Removal 5C-35 Installation • 5C-35 Cylinder Block . 5C-36 Oil Filter By-Fass Valve Inspection and Replacement................. 5C-36 Cleaning and Inspection 5C-36 Repairs 5C-36 Oversize Pistons Available 5C-37 ENGINE MECHANICAL - V-8 GM ENGINES This Section Contains Repair Information for the Following V-3 Engines: MerCruiser 190 Stern Drive Engine 283 Cubic Inch MerCruiser 225 Stern Drive and Inboard 327 Cubic Inch MerCruiser 250 Stern Drive and Inboard 327 Cubic Inch MerCruiser 270 Stern Drive and Inboard 350 Cubic Inch MerCruiser 310 Stern Drive 409 Cubic Inch MerCruiser 325 Stern Drive and Inboard 427 Cubic Inch MerCruiser 390 Stern Drive and Inboard 482 Cubic Inch TOOLS AH "]-" (Special) Tools Listed in This Section May Be Purchased from: Kent-Moore, Inc. 28635 Mound Road Warren, Mich. 48089 GENERAL Repair procedures are basically the same on all models. lubricate bearings. Valve lifter oil gallery feeds valve Any variations in repair procedure will be noted in the lifters, which, thru hollow push rods, feed individually- service instructions. mounted rocker arms. Crankshaft has 5 main bearings and camshaft has 5 bearings. Design of boat and particular repair procedure Full pressure lubrication thru oil filter is furnished by may require that engine be removed from boat. gear-type oil pump. Distributor, driven by a helical gear Engine should be placed on engine stand for on camshaft, drives the oil pump. Main oil gallery feeds major repairs. oil thru drilled passages to camshaft and crankshaft to ROCKER ARM COVER REMOVAL 3. Disconnect temperature wire from left rocker arm cover clips. 1. Remove rocker arm cover attaching screws. 4. Remove rocker arm cover. 2. Disconnect crankcase ventilation hoses. INSTALLATION 1. Clean gasket surfaces on cylinder head and rocker CAUTION: DO NOT pry rocker arm cover loose. arm cover with degreaser. Install a new gasket with Gaskets, which adhere to cylinder head and rock- rocker arm cover and torque to specifications. er arm cover, may be sheared by bumping end of 2. Connect temperature wire on left rocker arm cover. rocker arm cover from the rear with palm of hand 3. Connect crankcase ventilation hoses (as required). or a rubber mallet. 4. Start engine and check for leaks. 570 ENGINE - 5A-1 EXHAUST MANIFOLDS REMOVAL 1. Left (port) manifold a. Remove exhaust tube and water hose from left manifold. b. Remove screws which secure left exhaust manifold to cylinder head. 2. Right (starboard) manifold a. Remove exhaust tube and water hose from right manifold. b. Remove screws which secure right exhaust manifold to cylinder head. CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Clean gasket material from all surfaces and wash parts in solvent. INTAKE REMOVAL 1. Remove flame arrestor, crankcase ventilator and water cooling hoses to thermostat housing. 2. Disconnect carburetor linkage, fuel lines, temperature sending unit and coil primary wires. Disconnect coil to distributor secondary wire. 3. Remove distributor cap and mark rotor position with chalk, then remove distributor. Note distributor position in cylinder block. 4. Remove oil filler bracket, if required. 5. Remove manifold attaching bolts, then remove manifold and carburetor as an assembly. Discard gaskets and seals. 6. If manifold is to be replaced, transfer: Carburetor and carburetor mounting studs. Temperature sending unit. Water outlet and thermostat (use new gasket). INSTALLATION 1. Clean gasket and seal surfacesand cylinder heads. 2. Install manifold seals on blockinder heads. Use sealer at waterseals butt to gaskets. 3. Install manifold and torque bolts on manifold, block and gaskets on cylpassages and where to specifications in the sequence outlined on torque sequence chart. (Figure 1 or 2). 4. Install distributor, positioning rotor at chalk mark, then install distributor cap. 5. Connect: • Coil • Temperature sending unit • Fuel lines • Carburetor linkage • Water pump by-pass at water pump (use new gasket). 6. Adjust choke and carburetor linkage as outlined. 7. Start engine, adjust ignition timing and carburetor idle speed and mixture and check for leaks. 2. Install new gaskets and screws which secure manifold to cylinder head. Torque to specifications. 3. Install exhaust tubes and water hoses. INSTALLATION 1. Clean mating surfaces and check manifold for cracks. Replace manifold, if cracked. 2. Inspect all parts carefully. Machined surfaces must be clean and free of all marks or deep scratches, or water leaks may result. 3. Check water passages for sand, silt or foreign material. Passages must be clean for efficient cooling. 4. Pipe plugs may be removed from exhaust manifold elbow and exhaust pipe elbow, if more thorough inspection is desired. MANIFOLD 5A-2 -ENGINE VALVE MECHANISM REMOVAL 1. Remove rocker arm covers as outlined. 2. Remove rocker arm nuts, rocker arm balls, rocker arms and push rods. NOTE: Place rocker arms, rocker arm balls and push rods in a rack for reinstallation in the same locations. INSTALLATION NOTE: When installing new rocker arms and/or rocker arm balls, coat bearing surfaces of rocker arms and rocker arm balls with Molykote or equivalent. 1. Install push rods. Be sure push rods seat in lifter socket. 2. Install rocker arms, rocker arm balls and rocker arm nuts. Tighten rocker arm nuts until all lash is eliminated. NOTE: (409 Engine Only) Exhaust valve push rods are longer than inlet-valve push rods. Install push rods in their respective bores with the hardened tip (yellow color code end) up. ADJUSTMENT Valve lash can be ad justed either with engine stopped or running. See following procedures. 1. VALVE ADJUSTMENT - ENGINE STOPPED (EXCEPT 409) With valve cover removed, adjust valves when lifter is on base circle of camshaft lobe as follows: a. Crank engine with starter or turn over in normal direction of rotation until mark on torsional damper lines up with center "0 " mark on timing tab fastened to crankcase front cover, and engine is in No. 1 firing position. This may be determined by placing fingers on No. 1 valve as mark on damper comes near "0 " mark on timing mark. If valves move as mark comes up to timing tab, engine is in No. 6 firing position and should be turned over one more time to reach No. 1 position. b. With engine in No. 1 firing position as determined above, the following valves may be adjusted. Left Hand (Standard) Rotation Engines Exhaust - 1-3-4-8 Intake - 1-2-5-7 Right Hand Rotation (Opposite) Engines Exhaust - 1-2-5-7 Intake - 1-3-4-8 c. Back out adjusting nut until lash is felt at push rod. then turn in adjusting nut until all lash is removed. This can be determined by checking push rod side play while turning adjusting nut until all play is removed. (Figure 3) Figure 3. Valve Adjustment - Engine Stopped HYDRAULIC LIFTERS then can be adjusted by tightening adjustment nut an additional %-turn to place plunger in center of its travel. No other adjustment is required. d. Crank engine one revolution until pointer "0 " mark and torsional damper mark are again in alignment. This is No. 6 firing position. With engine in this position, the following valves may be adjusted as previously outlined. Left Hand (Standard) Rotation Engines Exhaust - 2-5-6-7 Intake - 3-4-6-8 Right Hand (Opposite) Rotation Engines Exhcust - 3-4-6-8 Intake - 2-5-6-7 e. Install rocker arm covers as outlined. f. Adjust carburetor idle speed and mixture. 2. VALVE ADJUSTMENT - ENGINE RUNNING a. Hydraulic Lifters Following procedure is performed with engine run ning: (1) After engine has been normalized, remove valve covers and install a reworked valve cover (cut top out of a used valve cover) and gasket on cylinder heads to prevent oil from running out. (Figure 4) ENGINE - 5A-3 Figure 4. Valve Adjustment - Engine Running (2) With engine running at idle, back valve rocker arm nuts off (one at a time) until valve rocker arm starts to clatter. (3) Turn rocker arm nut down until clatter just stops. This is zero lash position. (4) Turn nut down % additional turn and pause 10 seconds until engine runs smoothly. Repeat additional '4 turns, pausing 10 seconds each time, until nut has been turned down K-turn from the zero lash position. NOTE: This %-turn preload adjustment must be done slowly to allow lifter to adjust itself, thus preventing possibility of interference between inlet valve head and top of piston which might result in internal damage and/or bent push rods. (5) Repeat Steps 2-3-4 to adjust other valves. Remove reworked valve covers and install new gaskets and covers. (6) Adjust carburetor. b. Mechanical Lifters Following procedure is performed with engine at normal operating temperature: (1) After engine has been normalized, remove valve cover and install valve cover with cut-out top to prevent oil from running out. (2) With engine running at idle, back off valve rocker arm nut until valve rocker arm starts to clatter. (3) Insert feeler gauge of correct thickness ("Specifications", Section 8) between rocker arm and valve stem. (4) Turn rocker arm nut down until light drag is felt on feeler gauge. This is correct valve lash. NOTE: Care must be taken to distinguish between intake valves and exhaust valves, as each requires different clearances. (5) Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4 to adjust rest of valves. (6) Install valve cover(s) and new gasket(s). (7) Adjust carburetor. -a - ENGINE HYDRAULIC VALVE LIFTERS Hydraulic valve lifters require little attention. Lifters are extremely simple in design, readjustments are not necessary and servicing requires only that care and cleanliness be exercised in the handling of parts. LOCATING NOISY LIFTERS Locate a noisy valve lifter by using a piece of garden hose approximately 4 ft. (1.2m) in length. Place one end of hose near end of each intake and exhaust valve, with other end of hose to the ear. In this manner, the sound is localized, making it easy to determine which lifter is at fault. Another method is to place a finger on face of valve spring retainer. If lifter is not functioning properly, a distinct shock will be felt when valve returns to its seat. General types of valve lifter noise are as follows: 1. Hard rapping noise --Usually caused by plunger becoming tight in bore of lifter body so that return spring cannot push plunger back up to working position. Probable causes are: a. Excessive varnish or carbon deposit, causing abnormal stickiness. b. Galling or "pick-up" between plunger and bore of lifter body, usually caused by an abrasive piece of dirt or metal wedged between plunger and lifter body. 2. Moderate rapping noise -- Probable causes are: a. Excessively high leakdown rate. b. Leaky check valve seat. c. Improper adjustment. 3. General noise throughout valve train — This will, in most cases, be a definite indication of insufficient oil supply or improper adjustment. 4. Intermittent clicking -- Probable causes are: a. A miscroscopic piece of dirt momentarily caught between ball seat and check valve ball. b. In rare cases, ball itself may be out-of-round or have a flat spot. c. Improper adjustment. In most cases, where noise exists in one or more lifters, all lifter units should be removed, disassembled, cleaned in solvent, reassembled and reinstalled in engine. If dirt, corrosion, carbon, etc, is shown to exist in one unit, it more likely exists in all the units, thus it would only be a matter of lime before all lifters caused trouble. REMOVAL 1. Remove intake manifold as outlined. 2. Remove valve mechanism as outlined. 3. Remove valve lifters. NOTE: Place valve lifters in a rack so that they may be reinstalled in same location. DISASSEMBLY 1. Hold plunger down with a push rod and remove push rod seat retainer with blade of small screwdriver. 2. Remove push tod secst and metering valve (lifter "A" ) or push rod seat and inertia valve assembly (lifter "B"). (Figure 5) IIFTER A tl'TER B 050 30 Check Ball Retainer 2 - Push Rod Seat 1 - Lifter Body Push Rod Seat Retainer 3 - Metering Valve (Lifter A) Plunger Inertia Volve (Lifter B) Check Ball Spring 4 - Check Ball Plunger Spring Figure 5- Hydraulic Valve Lifters 3. Remove plunger, ball check valve assembly and plunger spring. 4. Remove ball check valve and spring by prying ball retainer loose from plunger with blade of a small screwdriver. (Figure 6) CLEANING and INSPECTION Thoroughly clean all parts in cleaning solvent and inspect them carefully. If any parts are damaged or worn, entire lifter assembly should be replaced. If lifter body wall is scuffed or worn, inspect cylinder block lifter bore. If bottom of lifter is scuffed or worn, inspect camshaft lobe. If push rod seat is scuffed or worn, inspect push rod, NOTE: Inertia valve and retainer (lifter "B") (Figure 5J should not be removed from push rod seat. To check valve, shake push rod seat and inertia valve assembly, and valve should move. ENGINE - 5C-5 05060 Figure 6. Removing Ball Check Valve REASSEMBLY 1. Place check ball on small hole in bottom of plunger. 2. Insert check ball spring on seat in ball retainer and place retainer over ball so that spring rests on ball. Carefully press retainer into position in plunger with blade of a small screwdriver. (Figure 7) 3. Place plunger spring over ball retainer and slide lifter body over spring and plunger, being careful to line up the oil feed holes on lifter body plunger. 4. Fill assembly with oil, then insert end of a 1/8 " drift pin into plunger and press down heavily. At this point, oil holes in lifter body and plunger assembly will be aligned. (Figure 8) 050 22 Figure 7. Installing Ball Check Valve 5A-6 - ENGINE CAUTION: Do not attempt to force or pump the plunger. 5. Insert a 1/16" drift pin thru both oil holes to hold plunger down against lifter spring tension. (Figure 8) NOTE: On lifter "B" (Figure 5) drift pin must not extend inside plunger. 6. Remove 1/8 " drift pin and refill assembly with oil. 7. Install metering valve and push rod seat (lifter "A" ) or push rod seat and inertia valve assembly (lifter "B"). (Figure 5) 8. Install push rod seat retainer, press down in push rod seat and remove 1/16" drift pin from oil holes. Lifter now is completely assembled, filled with oil and ready for installation. NOTE: Before installing any new lifters, coat bottom of lifter with Molykote or equivalent. Figure 8. Assembling Hydraulic Lifters INSTALLATION 1. Install valve lifters. NOTE: Whenever new valve lifters are being installed, coat foot of valve lifters with Molykote or equivalent. 2. Install intake manifold as outlined. 3. Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined. Two types of hydraulic lifters are used. Both types operate on the same principle and are serviced basically in the same manner. Complete lifter assemblies are interchangeable. but parts from one lifter are not interchangeable with another. Both lifters are easily identified by outside configuration of lifter body. Identify them as lifter "A " and lifter "B" . (Figure 4) VALVE STEM OIL SEAL and/or VALVE SPRING 05021 Figure 9. Air Adapter Tool REPLACEMENT 1. Remove rocker arm cover as outlined. 2. Remove spark plug, rocker arm and push rod on cylinders) to be serviced. 3. Apply compressed air to spark plug hole to hold valves in place. NOTE: A tool to apply air to the cylinder is available thru local jobbers or spark plug may be used. Chisel spark plug as shown, then drive porcelain out of plug by tapping center electrode against a hard block. Using a 3/8" pipe tap, cut threads in remaining portion of spark plug and assemble as shown. (Figure 9) 4. Compress valve spring with J-5892 tool to remove valve locks, valve cap (or rotator) and valve spring and damper. (Figure 10) 5. Remove valve stem oil seal. 6. Assemble as follows: Models 283. 327, 350 and 409 a. Set valve spring and damper, valve shield and valve cap (or rotator) in place. Close-coiled end of spring is installed against cylinder head. Compress spring with J-5892 tool and install oil seal in lower groove of stem, making sure that seal is flat and not twisted. NOTE: A light coat of oil on seal will help prevent twisting. b. Install valve locks and release compressor tool, making sure that locks seat properly in upper groove of valve stem. Figure 10. Compressing Valve Spring NOTE: while Grease releasing may be used to compressor tool. hold locks in place Models 427 and 482 a. Install new valve stem oil sealin position over valve guide. (coated with oil) b. Set rotator (exhaust valve), valve spring and damper and valve cap in place. c. Compress spring with J-5892 tool and install valve locks. Then release compressor tool, making sure that locks seat properly in groove of valve stem. NOTE: Grease may be used to hold locks in place while releasing compressor tool. 7- Install spark plug, using a new gasket, and torque to specifications. 8- Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined. ENGIN E - 5 A CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL 1. Drain cylinder block water. 2. Remove exhaust manifolds as outlined. 3. Remove intake manifold as described. 4. Remove valve mechanism as outlined. 5. Remove cylinder head bolts, cylinder head and gasket. Place cylinder head on 2 blocks of wood to prevent damage. INSTALLATION CAUTION: Gasket surfaces on both head and block must be clean of any foreign matter and free of nicks or deep scratches. Cylinder bolt threads in block and threads on cylinder head bolts must be clean. (Dirt will affect bolt torque.) 1. On engines using a STEEL gasket, coat both sides of a new gasket with a good sealer. Spread sealer thin and even. A paint roller makes a good applicator. Too much sealer may hold gasket away from head or block. CAUTION: Use no scaler on engines which have a box composition STEEL ASBESTOS gasket. 2. Place gasket in position over dowel pins with head up. 3. Carefully guide cylinder head into place over dowel pins and gasket. 4. Coat threads of cylinder head bolts with sealing compound and install bolts finger-tight. 5. Tighten each cylinder head bolt a little at a time in sequence shown in torque sequence chart until specified torque is reached. (Figure 11) 6. Install exhaust manifolds as outlined. 7. Install intake manifold as described. 8. Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined. 9. Install valve covers. 10. Install distributor and adjust timing. Figure 11. Cylinder Head Torque Sequence SC-8 - ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD and VALVE CONDITIONING DISASSEMBLY ]. With cylinder head removed, remove valve rocker arm nuts, balls and rocker arms (if not previously done). 2. Compress valve springs with J-8062 tool (Figure 12) and remove valve retainers. Release compressor tool and remove spring caps, spring shields (if so equipped), springs and spring damper, then remove oil seals and valve spring shims. 3- Remove valves from cylinder head and place valves in a rack in their proper sequence for reassembly in their original positions. Figure 14. Cleaning Valve Guides INSPECTION 1. Inspect cylinder head for cracks in exhaust ports, combustion chambers and for external cracks to water chamber. 2. Inspect valves for burned heads, cracked faces or damaged stems. NOTE: Excessive valve stem to bore clearance will cause excessive oil consumption and possible valve breakage. Insufficient clearance will result in noisy and sticky functioning of valve and disturb engine smoothness. Figure 12. Compressing Valve Spring CLEANING 1. Clean all carbon from combustion chambers and valve ports with J-8089 tool. (Figure 13) 2. Thoroughly clean valve guides with J-8101 tool. (Figure 14) 3. Clean all carbon and sludge from push rods, rocker arms and push rod guides. 4. Clean valve stems and heads on a buffing wheel. 5. Clean carbon deposits from head gasket mating surface. Figure 15. Measuring Valve Stem Clearance 3. Measure valve stem clearance (Figure 15) as follows: Clamp a dial indicator on one side of cylinder head rocker arm cover gasket rail, locating indicator so that movement of valve stem from side to side (cross- ENGINE 5C- 9 Figure 13. Cleaning Combustion Chambers wise to the head) will cause a direct movement of indicator stem. Indicator stem must contact side of valve stem just above valve guide. With valve head dropped about 1/16" (1.6mm) off valve seat, move valve stem from s:de-to-side, using light pressure to obtain a clearance reading. If clearance exceeds specifications, it will be necessary to ream valve guides for oversize valves, as outlined. 4. Check valve spring tension with J-8056 spring tester. (Figure 16) NOTE: Springs should be compressed to specified height and checked against specification chart. Springs should be replaced if not within 10 lbs. of specified load (without dampers). Figure 16. Checking Valve Spring Tension 5- Inspect rocker arm studs for wear or damage. Inspect push rod guides on 427 and 482 engines for wear or damage. • ^ Figure 18. Reaming Rocker Arm Stud Bore - 283, 327, 350 and 409 Models ROCKER ARM STUDS - REPAIRS Models 283, 327, 350 and 409 Rocker arm studs, which have damaged threads or are loose in cylinder head, should be replaced with new- studs available in .003" (.076mm) and .013" (.330mm) oversize. Studs may be installed after reaming holes as follows: 1. Remove old stud by placing J-5802-1 tool over stud, installing nut and flat washer and removing stud by turning nut. (Figure 17) 2. Ream hole for oversize stud with J-5715 tool for .003" oversize or J-6036 tool for .013" oversize. (Figure 18) CAUTION: Do not attempt to install an oversize stud without reaming stud hole. 3. Coat press-fit area of stud with lubricant. Install new- stud, using J-6880 tool as a guide. Gauge should bottom on head. (Figure 19) Figure 17. Removing Rocker Arm Stud - 283, 327, 350 and 409 Models 5C-10 - ENGINE 01677 Figure 19. Installing Rocker Arm Stud - 283, 327, 350 and 409 Models ROCKER ARM STUDS AND PUSH ROD GUIDES REPAIRS Models 427 and 482 Push rod guides are related to cylinder head by rocker arm studs. (Figure 20) Replace where necessary and torque rocker arm studs to specifications. \0TE: Coat threads on cylinder head end of rocker arm studs ivith sealer before assembling to cylinder head. Figure 20. Rocker Arm Stud and Push Rod Guide VALVE GUIDE BORES Valves with oversize stems are available (see specifications). To ream valve guide bores for .015" (.381mm) oversize valves, use J-5830-2 tool for 283, 327 and 350 models or J-7910-5 tool for 409, 427 and 482 models. (Figure 21) VALVE SEATS Valve seat reconditioning is very important, since seat ing of valves must be perfect for engine to deliver max imum power and performance. Another important factor is valve head cooling. Good contact between each valve and its seat in head is im portant to insure that heat in valve head will be properly dissipated. Several different types of equipment are available for re- seating valve seats. Equipment manufacturer's recom mendations should be followed carefully to attain proper results. Regardless of type of equipment, however, it is essential that valve guide bores be free from carbon or dirt to in sure proper centering of pilot in guide. 1. Install expanding pilot in valve guide bore and expand pilot. 2. Place roughing stone or forming stone over pilot and clean up valve seat only. Use a stone that is cut to specifications. 3. Remove roughing stone or forming stone from pilot, place finishing stone (cut to specifications) over pilot and cut just enough metal from seat to provide a smooth finish. Refer to "Specifications", Section 8 and Figure 23. 4. Narrow down valve seats to specified width by grinding port side with a 30° stone to lower seat and a 60° stone to raise seat. 5. Remove expanding pilot and clean cylinder head carefully to remove all chips and grindings from above operations. 6. Measure valve concentricity. (Figure 22) NOTE: Valve seats should be concentric to within .002" (.051mm) total indicator reading. 050 24 Figure 22. Measuring Valve Seat Concentricity ENGINE - 5C-1 1 VALVES Pitted valves can be refaced to proper angle on a valve grinder, thus insuring correct relation between head and stem. Replace valve stems with excessive wear or valves which are warped excessively. When an excessively- warped valve head is refaced, a knife edge will be ground on part or all of the valve head, due to amount of metal that must be removed to completely reface. Knife edges lead to breakage, burning or pre-ignition caused bv heat localizing in this knife edge. If edge of valve head is less than 1/32" (.8mm) thick after grinding, replace the valve. Various equipment is available for refacing valves. Manufacturer's recommendations should be carefully followed to attain proper results. 1. If necessary, dress the valve refacing machine grinding wheel to make sure it is smooth and true. Set chuck at angle specified for valve. Refer to "Specifications" and Figure 23. INTERFERENCE INTAKE VALVES ALL ENGINES EXHAUST VALVES 283, 327, 350 * 409 ENGINES ALLOY CAST IRON SEAT INSERTS PARALLEL EXHAUST VALVES 427 & 482 ENGINES Figure 23. Relation of Valve and Seat Angles 2. Continue grinding until valve face is true and smooth all around the valve. If this makes valve head thin (1 32" [.8mm[ minimum), valve must be replaced, or valve will overheat and burn. 3. Remove valve from chuck and place stem in "V" block. Feed valve squarely against grinding wheel to grind any pit from rocker arr.i end of stem. NOTE: Only extreme end of valve stem is hardened to resist wear. Do not grind end of stem excessively. 4. After cleaning valve face and cylinder head valve seat of grinding particles, make pencil marks about 1/4 " (6.4mm) across the valve face, place valve in cylinder head and give valve 1/2-turn in each direction while exerting firm pressure on head of valve. 5. Remove valve and check face carefully. If all pencil marks have not been removed at point of contact with valve seat, repeat refacing operation and again recheck for proper seating. 6. Grind and check for remaining valves. REASSEMBLY 1. Insert a valve in proper port. 2. Assemble valve spring and related parts as follows: Models 283,. 327, 350 and 409 a. Set valve spring shim, valve spring (with damper if used), valve shield and valve cap or rotator in place. (Figure 24) The close coiled end of spring is installed against cylinder head. b. Compress spring with J-8062 tool. c. Install oil seal in lower groove of stem, making sure that seal is flat and not twisted. d. Install valve locks and release compressor tool, making sure that locks seat properly in upper groove of valve stem. 050 44 Figure 24. Valve Spring Installation - 283, 327, 350 and 409 Models 427 and 482 a. Install valve spring shim and or exhaust valve rotator on valve spring seat, then install a new- valve stem oil seal over valve and valve guide. b. Set valve spring (with damper) and valve cap in place. (Figure 25) c. Compress spring with tool J-8062. 5A-12 -ENGINE d. Install valve locks and release compressor tool, making sure that locks seat properly in groove of valve stem. 050 4 3 Figure 25. Valve Spring Installation - 427 and 482 NOTE: Grease may be used to hold locks in place while releasing compressor tool. 3. Install remaining valves. 4. On 283 , 327 , 350 and 409 engines, check each valve stem oil seal by placing a vacuum cup or similar device over end of valve stem and against cap. Operate vacuum cup and be sure that no air leaks past seal. A vacuum cup can be made from a small syringe and a high voltage shield. (Figure 26) 5. Check installed height of the valve springs with a narrow, thin scale. A cutaway scale will help. (Figure 27) Measure from top of shim or spring seat to top of valve spring or valve spring shield. (Figure 28) If this exceeds specified height, install a valve spring seat shim approximately 1/16 " (1.6mm) thick. At no time should spring be shimmed to give an installed height under minimum specified. Figure 26. Vacuum Cup Figure 27. Cutaway Scale Figure 28. Measuring Valve Spring Installed Height ENGINE - 58-454 570 OIL PAN REMOVAL 1. Remove engine from boat. 2. Drain crankcase oil. 3. Drain water. 4. Remove oil filter. 5. Remove oil dipstick and tube. 6. Remove starter. 7. Remove oil pan and discard gaskets and seals. Figure 1. Oil Pan Gasket and Seal Locations INSTALLATION 1. Thoroughly clean all gasket and seal surfaces on oil pan, cylinder block, crankcase front cover and rear main bearing cap. 2. Install new- oil pan side gaskets on cylinder block, using gasket sealer as a retainer. Install new oil pan rear seal in rear main bearing cap groove with ends butting side gaskets. Install new oil pan front seal in groove in crankcase front cover with ends butting side gaskets. (Figure 1) 3. Install oil pan and torque bolts to specifications. NOTE: Before installing the aluminum oil pan on engines, coat surfaces of front and rear oil pan seals (Figure 1) with Oil Pan Sealant (C-92-52238-1). 4. Install starter brace and attaching bolts. Torque bolts to specifications. 5. Install oil dipstick tube and dipstick. 6. Install engine in boat. Fill engine with oil, start engine and check for leaks. 5A-14 -ENGINE 570 OIL PUMP The oil pump consists of 2 gears and a pressure regulator valve enclosed in a 2-pieee housing. Oil pump is driven by distributor shaft which is driven by a helical gear on camshaft. A baffle is incorporated on pickup screen to eliminate pressure loss (427 & 482 engine oil pump tubes are bent at special angles). REMOVAL 1. Remove oil pan as outlined. 2. Remove pump to rear main bearing cap bolt and remove pump and extension shaft. DISASSEMBLY (Figures 2 and 3) 1. Remove pump cover attaching screws and pump cover. NOTE: Mark gear teeth for reassembly with same teeth indexing. 2. Remove idler gear, drive gear and shaft from pump body. 3. Remove pressure regulator valve retaining pin pressure regulator valve and related parts. 4. If pickup screen and pipe assembly need replacing, mount pump in a soft-jawed vise and extract pipe from pump. CAUTION: Do not disturb pickup screen on pipe. This is serviced as an assembly. Figure 2. Oil Pump - 283, 327, 350 and 409 1 - Shaft Extension 6 - Pressure Regulator Valve 2 - Pump Body 7 - Pressure Regulator Spring 3 - Drive Gear and Shaft 8 - Retaining Pin 4 - Idler Gear 9 - Screws 5 - Pump Cover 10- Pickup Screen and Pipe CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Wash all parts in cleaning solvent and dry with compressed air. 2. Inspect pump body and cover for cracks or excessive wear. 3. Iiispect pump gears for damage or excessive wear. 370 Figure 3. Oil Pump - 427 and 482 1 - Shaft Extension 7 - Pump Cover 2 - Shaft Coupling 8 - Pressure Regulator Valve 3 - Pump Body 9 - Pressure Regulator Spring 4 - Drive Gear and Shaft 10 - Washer 5 - Idler Gear 11 - Retaining Pin 6 - Pickup Screen and Pipe 12 - Screws 4. Check for loose drive gear shaft in pump body. 5. Inspect inside of pump cover for wear that would permit oil to leak past ends of gears. 6. Inspect pickup screen and pipe assembly for damage to screen, pipe or relief grommet. 7. Check pressure regulator valve for fit. NOTE: Pump gears and body are not serviced separately. If pump gears or body are damaged or worn, replacement of entire oil pump assembly is necessary. REASSEMBLY 1. If pickup screen and pipe assembly was removed on 283 , 327 , 350 or 409 engines, it should be replaced with a new part. Los s of press-fit condition could result in an air leak and loss of oil pressure. Mount pump in a soft-jawed vise, apply sealer to end of pipe and, using tool J-8369, tap pipe in place with a plastic hammer. (Figure 4) The 427 and 482 pickup screen cannot be replaced. 050 3S Figure 4. Installing Screen - 283, 327, 350 and 409 ENGINE - 5C-15 CAUTION: Be careful of twisting, shearing or collapsing pipe while installing in pump. Pickup screen must be parallel to bottom of oil pan when oil pump is installed. 2. Install pressure regulator valve and related parts. •3. Install drive gear and shaft in pump body. 4. Install idler gear in pump body with smooth side of gear toward pump cover opening. 5. Install pump cover and torque attaching screws to specifications. 6. Turn drive shaft by hand to check for smooth operation. INSTALLATION 1. Assemble pump and extension shaft to rear main bearing cap, aligning slot on top end of extension shaft with drive tang on lower end of distributor drive shaft. 2. Install pump to rear bearing cap bolt and torque to specifications. (Figure 5) NOTE: Oil pump screen is installed with bottom edge parallel to oil pan rails. 3. Install oil pan as outlined. Figure 5. Oil Pump Removal and Installation 5A-16 -ENGINE 570 TORSIONAL DAMPER REMOVAL 1. Coat front cover seal contact area (on damper) with engine oil. 1. Remove drive belts and water pump pulley. 2. Install damper on crankshaft as follows: 2. Remove accessory drive pulley, then (if so equipped), a. Place damper in position over . \ t Figure 8. Checking Camshaft Alignment 4. Place gear spacer ring and thrust plate over end of shaft, and install woodruff key in shaft keyway. Press camshaft gear onto shaft until it bottoms against gear spacer ring. End clearance of thrust plate should be .001" to .005" (0.025mm to 0.127mm). (Figure 9) Figure?. Checking Thrust Plate Clearance CALTION: Position thrust plate so that woodruff key in shaft does not damage it when shaft is pressed out of gear. Also support hub of gear, or gear will be seriously damaged. 3. To assemble camshaft gear, thrust plate and gear spacer ring to camshaft, firmly support camshaft at back of front journal in an arbor press. (Figure 10) IMPORTANT: On 427 and 482 models, install ihrust plate with oil groove!, toward camshaft gear. Figure 10. Removing Camshaft Gear R1078 ENGINE - 5C-33 CRANKSHAFT SPROCKETS or GEARS REMOVAL 3. Install crankcase front cover and torsior.al damper as 1. Remove torsional damper and crankcase front cover outlined. as outlined. 2. Remove camshaft gear or timing chain as outlined. 3. Use following tools for crankshaft sprocket or gear removal, as shown in Figure 11. CAUTION: On 427 and 482 models, install tool bolt in crankshaft with sufficient thread engagement. 05054 Figure 12. Installing Crankshaft Gear or Sprocket 283, 327, 350 and 409 Figure 11. Removing Crankshaft Gear or Sprocket - 283, 327, 350 and 409 05052 Figure 11 A. Removing Crankshaft Gear or Sprocket - 427 and 482 F igure 12A. Installing Crankshaft Gear or Sprocket - 427 and 482 NOTE: On 427 and 482 engines, be sure that removal tool will not damage retaining boh threads. INSTALLATION 1. Use following tools for installation of crankshaft sprocket or gear, as shown in Figure 12 or 12A. 2. Install camshaft gear or timing chain as outlined. MODE L TOO L NO . 283, 3 27, 350 and 409 J-5590 427 and 482 J-21058 5D-34 -ENGIN E CAMSHAFT BEARINGS INSPECTION 6. Assemble J-6098-1 tool on driver handle and remove front and rear camshaft bearings by driving toward With camshaft removed, inspect bearings for wear or dam- center of cylinder block. (Figure 13) age and replace if necessary. REMOVAL INSTALLATION Camshaft bearings can be replaced while engine is dis-Install front and rear camshaft bearings first. These bear- assembled for overhaul or without complete disassembly. ings act as guides for pilot and center the remaining To replace bearings without complete disassembly, re-bearings being pulled into place. move camshaft and crankshaft, leaving cylinder heads 1. Assemble tool J-6098-1 on driver handle and install attached and pistons in place. Before removing crank- front and rear camshaft bearings by driving toward shaft, tape threads of connecting rod bolts to prevent center of cylinder block. (Figure 14) darrage to crankshaft. Fasten connecting rod against sides of engine so that they will not interfere while replacing camshaft bearings. 1. With camshaft and crankshaft removed, drive camshaft rear plug from cylinder block. NOTE: This procedure is based on removal of bearings center of engine first, thus requiring a minimum amount of turns to remove all bearings. 2. Using tool set J-6098-1 (with nut and thrust washer installed to end of threads), position pilot in front camshaft bearing and install puller screw through pilot. NOTE: Tool adaptor J-6098-8 is used with tool set 1-6098 for replacing model 427 and 482 cam bearings. Combination of above tools is tool set J-6098-01. 3. Install J-6098-1 tool with shoulder toward bearing. Be sure a sufficient amount of threads are engaged. 4. Using 2 wrenches, hold puller screw while turning nut. When bearing has been pulled from bore, remove tool and bearing from puller screw. (Figure 13) Figure 14. Replacing Front Camshaft Bearing 5. Remove remaining bearings (except front and rear) in same manner. It will be necessary to position pilot in CAUTION: Oil holes in bearings must line up rear camshaft bearing to remove rear intermediate with oil holes in cylinder block. bearing. 2. Using tool set J-6098 (with nut and thrust washer installed to end of threads), position pilot in front camshaft bearing and install puller screw through pilot. 3. Position camshaft bearing in bore, then install J6098- 1 tool in puller screw with shoulder toward bearing. 4. Using 2 wrenches, hold puller screw while turning nut. After bearing has been pulled into bore, remove tool from puller screw and check alignment of oil hole in camshaft bearing. (Figure 13) 5. Install remaining bearings in same manner. It will be necessary to position pilot in rear camshaft bearing to install rear intermediate bearing. 6. Install a new camshaft rear plug. NOTE: Install plug flush to 1/32" (.8mm) deep and Figure 13. Replacing Camshaft Bearings parallel with rear surface of cylinder block. R1078 ENGINE -5C-35 CYLINDER BLOCK OIL FILTER BY-PASS VALVE INSPECTION and REPLACEMENT With oil filter removed, check spring and fibre valve for operation. Inspect for a cracked or broken valve. If replacement is necessary, oil filter adaptor and by-pass valve assembly must be replaced as an assembly. Clean valve chamber in cylinder block thoroughly. Torque retaining screws to specifications. (Figure 15) Figure 15. Oil Filter By-Pass Valve CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Remove all engine components as previously outlined. 2. Wash cylinder block thoroughly in cleaning solvent and clean all gasket surfaces. 3. Remove oil gallery plugs and clean all oil passages. NOTE: These plugs may be removed with a sharp punch, or they may be drilled and pried out. 4. Clean and inspect water passages in cylinder block. 5. Inspect cylinder block for cracks in cylinder walls, water jacket valve lifter bores and main bearing webs. 6. Measure cylinder walls for taper, out-of-round or excessive ridge at top of ring travel. This should be done with a dial indicator or inside micrometer. (Figure 16) Carefully work gauge up and down cylinder to determine taper and turn it to different points around cylinder wall to determine out-of-round condition. If cylinders exceed specifications, honing or boring will be necessary. (Figure 17) REPAIRS CYLINDER CONDITIONING 1. Performance of the following operation depends upon engine condition at time of repair. 2. If cylinder block inspection indicates that block is suitable for continued use (except for out-of-round or tapered cylinders), they can be conditioned by- honing or boring. 3. If cylinders have less than .005" taper or wear.they can be conditioned with a hone and fitted with high limit standard size piston. A cylinder bore of less than .005" wear or taper may not clean up entirely when fitted to a high limit piston. To entirely clean up the bore, it will be necessary to rebore for an oversize piston. If more than .005" taper or wear, bore and hone to smallest oversize that will permit complete resurfacing of all cylinders. (.005"=. 127mm) 4. When pistons are being fitted and honing is not necessary, cylinder bores may be cleaned with a hot water and detergent wash. After cleaning, swab cylinder bores several times with light engine oil and a clean cloth, then wipe with a clean dry cloth. CYLINDER BORING 1. Before using any type boring bar, file off top of cylinder block to remove dirt or burrs. This is very important to prevent boring bar tilt and result that re- bored cylinder wall is not at right angles to crankshaft. 2. Measure piston to be fitted with a micrometer, measuring at center of piston skirt and at right angles to piston pin. Bore cylinder to same diameteras piston and hone to give specified clearance. NOTE: Hone cylinders as outlined under "Cylinder Honing and Piston Fitting". 3. Carefully observe instructions furnished by manufacturer of equipment being used. "A " = At right angle to centerline of engine "B " = Parallel to centerline of engine "Out-of-round" = Difference between "A " and "B " "Taper" = Difference be tween measurement at top of cylinder bore and "A " measurement at bottom of cylinder bire. Figure 16. Cylinder Measurement CYLINDER HONING 1. Follow hone manufacturer s recommendations for use of hone and cleaning and lubrication during honing. 2. Occasionally, during the honing operation, thoroughly clean cylinder bore and check piston (selected for the individual cylinder) for correct fit. 3. When finish-honing a cylinder bore to fit a piston, move hone up and down at a sufficient speed to obtain very fine uniform surface finish marks in a cross-hatch pattern of approximately 45° to 65° included angle. Finish marks should be clean but not sharp, free from imbedded particles and torn or folded metal. 4. Permanently mark piston (for cylinder to which it has been fitted) and proceed to hone cylinders and fit remaining pistons. SC-36-ENGINE Clean remainder of cylinder block to remove excess material spread during honing operation. PISTON SELECTION 1. Check USED piston to cylinder bore clearance as follows: a. Measure "cylinder bore diameter" with a telescope gauge (2-1/2" r63.5mnT] from t0P cylinder bore). b. Measure "piston diameter" (at skirt across center line of piston pin). c. Subtract piston diameter from cylinder bore diameter to determine "piston-to-bore clearance". d. Determine if "piston-to-bore clearance" is in acceptable range shown in specifications. 2. If used piston is not satisfactory, check Piston Size Chart, following, and determine if a new piston can be selected to fit cylinder bore within acceptable range. 3. If cylinder bore must be reconditioned, measure new- piston diameter (across centerline of piston pin), then hone cylinder bore to correct clearance (preferable range). 4. Mark piston to identify cylinder for which it was fitted. OVERSIZE PISTONS AVAILABLE CAUTION: Handle pistons with care and do not attempt to force them through cvlinder until cylinder is honed to correct size, as this type piston can be distorted by careless handling. 5. Thoroughly clean cvlinder bores with hot water and detergent. Scrub well with a stiff bristle brush and rinse thoroughly with hot water. It is extremely essential that a good cleaning operation be performed. If any abrasive material remains in cylinder bores, it will rapidly wear new rings and cylinder bores in addition to bearings lubricated by the contaminated oil. Swab bores several times with light engine oil and a clean cloth, then wipe with a clean dry cloth. Cvlinder should not be cleaned with kerosene cr gasoline. Metric Conversion: I" -25.4mm ENGIN ENGINENGIN E EE SIZE DISPLACEMEN DISPLACEMENDISPLACEMEN T TT .001" .020" .030" 233 3.8760" 3.8770" to 3.89 37" to 3.89 57" 327 and 350 4.0010" 4.0020" to 4.0187" to 4.0207" 4.0 287" to 4.0307" 409 4.3110" 4.3120" to 4.3380" to 4.3400" 427 4.2485" 4.2495" to 4.2780" to 4.2800" 43 2 4.2485" 4.2495" to 4.2680" to 4.2700" 4.2780" to 4.2800" Figure 17. Measuring Cylinder Bore R1078 ENGINE -5C-37 SECTION 5 - ENGINE PART D - ENGINE MECHANICAL, V-8 FORD INDEX Page Tools 5D-1 General 5D-1 Intake Manifold . ." SD-l Exhaust Manifolds 5D-2 Rocker Arm Cover 5D-3 Valve Clearance 5D-3 Valve Mechanism 5D-4 Hydraulic Valve Lifters 5D-4 Valve Spring, Retainer and Stem Seal Replacement . . 5D-6 Cylinder Head 5D-7 Oil Pan 5D-12 Oil Pump 5D-13 Flywheel 5D-15 Pistons and Connecting Rods 5D-16 Connecting Rods 5D-16 Pistons, Pins and Rings 5D-17 Crankshaft 5D-20 Main Bearings 5D-24 Connecting Rod Bearings 5D-25 Main and Connecting Rod Bearing Inserts 5D-26 Torsional Domper 5D-27 Cylinder Block Front Cover ond Front Seal 5D-27 Front Oil Seal Replacement 5D-28 Timing Chain, Sprockets and Fuel Pump Eccentric . . 5D-29 Camshaft 5D-31 Camshaft Bearing Replacement 5D-32 Camshaft Lobe Lift 5D-33 Camshaft End Play 5D-33 Cylinder Block 5D-34 Repairing Engine Casting 5D-35 Core Plug Replacement - 50-36 ENGINE MECHANICAL V-8 (302 and 351 Cu. In.) FORD ENGINE For MerCruiser 888-215-225 and 255 TOOLS * All "J" (Special) Tools Listed Herein May Be Purchased From: Kent-Moore, Inc. 28635 Mound Road Warren, Michigan 48039 * All "T" Prefix (Special) Tools Herein May Be Purchased From: 0watonna Tools, Inc. Attn: Ford Order Desk 0watonna, Minnesota 55060 If ordering tool number(s) shown in discussion on following pages, number(s) may be superseded by newer tool(s) which will be sent by tool manufacturer listed above. GENERAL Some repairs, which are listed in this section, must be completed with the engine removed from the boat. Type of repair and boat design determine if the engine is to be removed. Place engine on an engine stand for major repairs. INTAKE REMOVAL 1. Drain water from cylinder block . 2. Remove coil bracket bolt and move coil aside. 3. Remove temperature sender leads. 4. Remove distributor cap and move cap aside. 5. Remove 2 bolts which secure thermostat housing to intake manifold. 6. Remove carburetor fuel inlet line and throttle linkage. 7. Disconnect crar.kcase vent hose at rocker arm cover. 8. Remove manifold attaching bolts and nuts. Remove manifold and carburetor as an assembly. It may be necessary to pry intake manifold away from cylinder head(s). Use caution to avoid damage to gasket sealing surfaces. Right hand and left hand rotation engines have similar repair procedures, as outlined in this section. Component crankshafts, camshafts, front and rear crankshaft seals and circulating water pumps, however, vary between right and left hand rotating engines. MANIFOLD 9. Remove intake manifold gaskets and seals. Discard intake manifold attaching bolt sealing washers. CLEANING 1. Remove all gasket material from machined surfaces of manifold. 2. Clean manifold in a suitable solvent and dry with compressed air. INSPECTION 1. Inspect manifold for cracks, damaged gasket surfaces or other defects. 2. Replace studs which are stripped or damaged. 3. Remove all filings and foreign matter that may have entered manifold during repair. R1078 ENGINE - 5C-1 INSTALLATION 1. If replacing manifold assembly, transfer engine lifting eye, temperature sending unit, carburetor and spacer. Install new gasket. 2. Clean mating surface of intake manifold, cylinder heads and cylinder block. Use a suitable solvent to remove all traces of oil. Coat cylinder block seal surfaces with contact adhesive. 3. Position new seals on cylinder block and new gaskets on cylinder heads with gaskets interlocked with seal tabs. Be sure that holes in gaskets are aligned with holes in cylinder heads. 4. Carefully lower intake manifold into position on cylinder block and cylinder heads. After intake manifold is in place, run a finger around the seal area to make sure that seals are in place. 5. Be certain that holes in manifold gaskets and manifold are in alignment. Using new sealing washers, install intake manifold attaching bolts and nuts. Torque intake manifold bolts in 2 steps. Torque all bolts in sequence to specifications. After completing remaining assembly steps, operate engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, then retorque manifold bolts to specifications in sequence shown in Figure 1. 6. Install thermostat housing and temperature sender lead. 7. Install carburetor fuel inlet line. 8. Connect crankcase vent hose. Install coil. 9. Connect throttle linkage. 0. Operate engine at fast idle and check all hose connections and gaskets for leaks. When engine temperatures have stabilized, adjust engine idle speed and idle fuel mixture. Figure 1. Intake Manifold Torque Sequence EXHAUST MANIFOLDS REMOVAL 1. Remove cooling hose from manifold. 2. Remove dipstick housing bracket and fuel filter mount from port manifold. 3. Disconnect exhaust hoses. Drain water from manifold housing and elbow. 4. Remove attaching bolts and washers, then remove manifold. CLEANING and INSPECTION 1. Clean gasket material from all surfaces and wash parts in solvent. 2. Inspect all parts carefully. Machined surfaces must be clean and free of all marks or deep scratches, or water leaks may result. 5D-2 - ENGIN E 3. Check water passages for sand, silt or foreign material. Passages must be clean for efficient cooling. 4. Pipe plugs may be removed from exhaust manifold elbow and exhaust pipe elbow, if more thorough inspection is desired. INSTALLATION 1. Clean mating surfaces of exhaust manifold and cylinder head. 2. Position exhaust manifold on cylinder head with new- gaskets and install attaching bolts and washers. Torque bolts to specifications from center to ends. 3. Install exhaust hoses and drain plugs. 4. Install dipstick housing bracket and fuel filter on port manifold. 5. Install cooling inlet hose. 6. Start engine and check for leaks. ROCKER ARM COVER REMOVAL INSTALLATION 1. Remove carburetor vent hose from starboard cover. 1. Clean gasket surfaces and position cover(s) in place 2. Remove attaching bolts and remove rocker arm cover(s). with new gasket. 2. Install rocker cover bolts with harness clamps on right manifold and torque cover(s) to specifications shown in Section 8. 3. Install carburetor vent hose in starboard rocker cover. VALVE CLEARANCE If a noise is present in valve train (which is not caused by a POSITION "C" collapsed hydraulic lifter), use the following procedure to Rotate crankshaft to position "C " in Figure 4 and check check for worn components in the valve train. If check the following vlaves on 302 and 351 cu. in. engines: indicates that clearance is not to specifications, replace worn a. No. 2 intake, No. 4 exhaust parts in valve tram to bring limit within specifications. b. No. 5 intake, No. 5 exhaust c. No. 6 intake, No. 8 exhaust 1. Position No. 1 piston at TDC (position "A" ) at end of 2. Apply pressure on valve lifter with Tool 6513AC (Figure compression stroke. Use chalk to mark points "B " and 3) to slowly bleed lifter until plunger is completely "C " approximately 90 ° apart. (Figure 2) Adjust only bottomed. valves indicated for position "A" . 3. Hold valve lifter in full collapsed position and check available clearance with feeler gauge between rocker arm and valve stem tip. (Figure 3) Feeler gauge width must not exceed 3/8" (9.5mm). Clearance should be .083" to .183" (2.1mm to 4.6mm). Parts must be replaced if worn beyond specification. 4. Rotate crankshaft 180° (to position "B") clockwise from position "A" . Repeat Steps 2 and 3 on appropriate valves. 5. Rotate crankshaft 270 ° (to position "C") clockwise from position "B". Repeat Steps 2 and 3 on appropriate valves. POSITION "A " With No. 1 piston on TDC at end of compression stroke (position "A " in Figure 2), check the following valves on 302 and 351 cu.in. engines: a. No. 1 intake, No. 1 exhaust b. No. 4 intake, No. 3 exhaust c. No. 8 intake, No. 7 exhaust POSITION "B" Rotate crankshaft to position "B " in Figure 2 and check the following valves on 302 and 351 cu. in. engines: a. No. 3 intake, No. 2 exhaust b. No. 7 intake, No. 6 exhaust Figure 3. Checking Valve Clearance 1272R1 EN GIN E - 5D-3 VALVE MECHANISM REMOVAL 1. Remove rocker arm cover(s) as outlined. 2. Remove rocker arm stud nut, ball unit and rocker arm. NOTE: Keep all parts in order when removed (to reinstall in same location). 3. Remove push rod(s) and identify (to reinstall in same location. CLEANING Clean all parts thoroughly. Make sure that all oil passages are open. Be certain that oil passage in push rod end of rocker arm is open. INSPECTION Check rocker arm pad, side rails and ball seat for excessive wear, cracks, nicks or burrs. Check rocker arm stud and nut for stripped or broken threads. Check ends of push rods for nicks, grooves, roughness or excessive wear. Check push rods visually for straightness while they are installed in engine by rotating rods with valve closed. Push rods also can be checked with a dial indicator. INSTALLATION 1. Apply molycote to top of valve stem and ball units. 2. Install rocker arm ball unit and stud nut. 3. Install rocker arm cover(s) as outlined, preceding. HYDRAULIC VALVE LIFTERS Hydraulic valve lifters require little attention. Lifters are extremely simple in design, readjustments are not necessary and servicing requires only that care and cleanliness are exercised in the handling of parts. LOCATING NOISY LIFTERS Locate a noisy valve lifter by using a piece of garden hose approximately 4 ft. (1.2m) in length. Place one end of hose near end of each intake and exhaust valve, with other end of hose to the ear. In this manner, the sound is localized, making it easy to determine which lifter is at fault. Another method is to place a finger on face of valve spring retainer. If lifter is not functioning properly, a distinct shock will be felt when valve returns to its seat. General types of valve lifter noise are as follows: 1. Hard rapping noise — Usually caused by plunger becoming tight in bore of lifter body so that return spring cannot push plunger back up to working position. Probable causes are: a. Excessive varnish or carbon deposit, causing abnormal stickiness. b. Galling or "pick-up" between plunger and bore of lifter body, usually caused by an abrasive piece of dirt or metal wedged between plunger and lifter body. 2. Moderate rapping noise -- Probable causes are: a. Excessively high leakdown rate. b. Leaky check valve seat. c. Improper adjustment. 3. General noise throughout valve train — This will, in most cases, be a definite indication of insufficient oil supply or improper adjustment. 4. Intermittent clicking — Probable causes are: a. A microscopic piece of dirt momentarily caught between ball seat and check valve ball. b. In rare cases, ball itself may be out-of-round or have a flat spot. c. Improper adjustment. In most cases, where noise exists in one or more lifters, all lifter units should be removed, disassembled, cleaned in solvent, reassembled and reinstalled in engine. If 5D-4 - ENGINE dirt, corrosion, carbon, etc, is shown to exist in one unit, it more likely exists in all the units, thus it would only be a matter of time before all lifters caused trouble. REMOVAL 1. Remove intake manifold as outlined. 2. Remove valve mechanism as outlined. 3. Remove valve lifters. NOTE: Place valve lifters in a rack so that they may be reinstalled in the same location. Internal parts of each hydraulic valve lifter assembly are matched sets. Do not intermix parts. Keep assemblies intact until cleaning. Disassembly and assembly procedures vary for Types I and II valve lifters. See respective figures for identification. TYPE I DISASSEMBLY Disassemble and assemble each lifter separately. Identify lifter assemblies so that they will be reinstalled in original bores. 1. Grasp lock ring with needle-nose pliers to release ring from groove. It may be necessary to depress plunger to fully release lock ring. 2 . Remove push rod cup, metering valve (disc), plunger and spring. 3. Remove plunger assembly, check valve and check valve retainer and plunger spring. Carefully remove plunger spring, check valve retainer and check valve disc from plunger. TYPE I ASSEMBLY (Figure 3A) 1. Place plunger upside down. 2. Place check valve (disc or ball check) in position over oil hole on bottom of plunger. Set check valve spring on top of check valve (disc or ball check). 3. Position check valve retainer over check valve and spring and push retainer down into place on plunger. 1272R1 4. Place plunger spring and plunger (open end up) into lifter body. 5. Position metering valve (disc) in plunger, then place push rod cup in plunger. 6. Depress plunger and position closed end of lock ring in groove of lifter body. With plunger still depressed, position open ends of lock ring in groove. Release plunger, then depress it again to fully seat lock ring. Figure 3A. TypeX Hydraulic Valve Lifter Assembly TYPEH DISASSEMBLY Each valve lifter is a matched assembly. If parts of one lifter are intermixed with parts of another, improper valve operation may result. Disassemble and assemble each lifter separately. Keep lifter assemblies in proper sequence so that they will be reinstalled in original bores. 1. Grasp lock ring with needle-nose pliers to release ring from groove. It may be necessary to depress plunger to fully release lock ring. 2. Remove push rod cup, metering valve disc and upper metering valve. Do not bend metering valve or valve tensioning finger. 3. Remove plunger assembly, check valve and check valve retainer and plunger spring. Carefully remove plunger spring, check valve retainer and check valve disc from plunger. TYPEH ASSEMBLY (Figure 3B) 1. Place plunger in an inverted position and center check valve disc on plunger. Carefully slide check valve over disc and down until valve bottoms. A slight turning motion will help. Use every precaution not to distort valve ir. any way, nor to bend preformed fingers. With slight turning motion, slide plunger spring over metering valve and down until spring seats. 2. Leaving assembly inverted, slide lifter body down over spring until body slightly compresses spring. 3. Place combined assembly right-side-up on work surface. 4. Position upper metering valve in plunger, taking care not to tilt it to either side and not to damage or bend valve tensioning finger. Place metering valve disc over metering valve and install push rod cup. Depress cup and install lock ring. CLEANING Thoroughly clean all parts in cleaning solvent and wipe them with a clean, lint-free cloth. INSPECTION 1. Inspect parts and discard entire lifter assembly if any part shows pitting, scoring, galling, excessive wear or evidence or non-rotation. 2. Replace entire assembly, if plunger is not free in body. Plunger should drop to bottom of body by its own weight when assembled dry. 3. Assemble lifter assembly and check for freedom of operation by pressing down on push rod cup. PUSH ROD UPPER METERING VALVE LIFTER ASSEMBLY Figure 3B. TypeHHydraulic Valve Lifter Assembly INSTALLATION 1. Install valve lifters. NOTE: Whenever new valve lifters are being installed, coat foot of valve lifters with molykote or equivalent. 2. Install intake manifold as outlined. 3. Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined. 1272R1 ENGINE • 5D-5 VALVE SPRING, RETAINER and STEM SEAL REPLACEMENT Broken valve springs or damaged valve stem seals and retainers may be replaced without removing cylinder head if no damage to valve or valve seat. 1. Remove valve rocker arm cover and corresponding spark plug. 2. Remove valve rocker arm stud nuts, ball units, valve rocker arms and push rods from applicable cylinder. 3. Install an air line with adaptor in spark plug hole and turn on air. 4. Install stud nut and position compressor tool as shown in Figure 3D. Compress valve spring and remove retainer locks, spring retainer and valve spring. i. Remove and discard valve stem seal. Figure 3C. Compressing Valve Spring 5. If air pressure has forced piston to bottom of cylinder, any removal of air pressure will allow valve(s) to fall into cylinder. A rubber band, tape or string (wrapped around end of valve stem) will prevent valve(s) from dropping and still allow enough travel to check the valve for binds. Move valve up and dow:n thru normal travel in valve guide and check stem for binds. If valve has been damaged, remove cylinder head for repairs as outlined., following. 7. Inspect valve s:em for damage. Rotate valve and check valve stem tip for eccentric movement during rotation. 8. If condition of valve is satisfactory, hold valve in closed position and apply air pressure to cylinder. 9- Install a new valve stem seal. (Figure 3C) Place spring in position over valve and install valve spring retainer. Compress valve spring and install valve spring retainer locks. (Figure 3D) Remove compressor tool and stud nut. 10. Install valve mechanism as outlined. 11. Remove air line and adaptor. Install spark plug and wire. 12. Install rocker arm cover as outlined . A/r Line Too/-T6?<:-6565-A Figure 3D. Removing or Installing Valve Stem Seal 5D-6 - ENGINE 1272R1 CYLINDER HEAD If replacing a cylinder head, follow procedures under "Cylinder Head Disassembly and Assembly", following, and transfer all valves, springs, spark plugs, etc, to new cylinder head. Clean and inspect all parts, reface valves and check all assembly clearances before assembling new or used parts to new cylinder head. REMOVAL 1. Remove intake manifold as outlined. 2. Remove exhaust manifold(s). 3. Remove rocker arm cover(s) as outlined. 4. Loosen distributor cap and remove spark plug wire hold-down. Remove plug wires and distributor cap as an assembly. 5. Remove spark plugs. 6. Remove valve mechanism as outlined. 7. Remove cylinder head attaching bolts and lift cylinder head off block. DISASSEMBLY 1. Clean carbon out of cylinder head combustion chambers before removing valves. 2. Compress valve springs. (Figure 3D) Remove spring retainer locks and release spring. 3. Remove spring retainer, spring, stem seal and valve. Discard valve stem seals. Identify all valve parts. 4. Clean, inspect and repair cylinder "head, as required, or transfer all usable parts to a new cylinder head. CLEANING 1. With valves installed to protect valve seats, remove deposits from combustion chambers and valve heads with a scraper and wire brush. Be careful not to damage cylinder head gasket surface. 2. After removing valves, clean valve guide bores with a valve guide cleaning tool. Use cleaning solvent to remove dirt, grease and other deposits. 3. Clean all boh holes and remove all deposits from valves with a fine brush or buffing wheel. INSPECTION Check cylinder head for cracks and inspect gasket surface for burrs and nicks. Replace head if cracked. CYLINDER HEAD FLATNESS When a cylinder head is removed because of gasket leaks, check cylinder head for flat gasket surface according to specifications. (Figure 4) If necessary to re finish cylinder head gasket surface, do not plane or grind off more than .010" (.25mm). VALVE SEAT RUNOUT Check valve seat runout with accurate gauge. (Figure 5) Follow instructions of gauge manufacturer. If runout exceeds wear limit, reface valve and valve seat. Runout Gauge 060 17 Figure 5. Checking Valve Seat Runout VALVE INSPECTION 1. The critical inspection points and tolerances of valves are illustrated in Figure 6. Refer to specifications for wear limits. 2. Inspect valve face and edge of valve head for pits, grooves, scores or other damage. 3. Inspect stem for bent condition and end of valve head for pits, grooves, scores or other wear. 4. Inspect stem for bent condition and end of stem for grooves or scores. 5. Check valve head for signs of burning, erosion, warping and cracking. Minor pits, grooves, etc, may be removed. Discard valves that are severely damaged. 6. Inspect valve spring, valve spring retainers, locks and sleeves for wear or damage. Discard any visually damaged parts. R1078 ENGINE - 5C-7 VALVE SEAT WIDTH Measure valve seat width. (Figure 7) Reface valve seats if width is not within specifications. Figure 7. Checking Valve Seat Width VALVE STEM CLEARANCE 1. Measure valve stem clearance (Figure 8) as follows: Clamp a dial indicator on one side of cylinder head rocker arm cover gasket rail, locating indicator so that movement of valve stem from side to side (crosswise to the head) will cause a direct movement of indicator stem. Indicator stem must contact side of valve stem just above valve guide. 2. With valve head dropped about 1/16" (1.6mm) off valve seat, move valve stem from side-to-side, using light pressure to obtain a clearance reading. Figure 8. Checking Valve Stem Clearance 3. If clearance exceeds specific! tions, it will be necessary to ream valve guides for oversize valves, as outlined. VALVE SPRING PRESSURE 1. Check springs for correct pressure at specified spring lengths with Tool J-8056. (Figure 9) IMPORTANT: DO NOT manually rotate valve spring assemblies while installed in engine to determine good and/or bad valve springs. Weak valve springs cause poor engine performance. 2. Replace any spring not within specifications. Figure 9. Checking Valve Spring Pressure 670 5D-8 -ENGIN E valve spring "square" 1. Check each spring for "square" with a steel square and flat surface. (Figure 10) 2. Stand spring and square on end on flat surface. Slide spring up to square. 3. Revolve spring slowly and observe space between top coil of spring and square. Out-of-square limits are 5/16" (8mm). ' 4. Follow same procedure to check new valve springs before installation. IMPORTANT: Make certain that proper spring (color coded) is installed. 5. Visually inspect valve spring retainer to determine if damper spring coil has been hitting retainer. This interference also will cause a clicking noise when engine is operating. Damper spring is properly installed in valve spring when positioned so that end of damper spring bottom coil is 135° counterclockwise from end of valve spring lower coil. Figure 10. Checking Valve Spring Squareness reaming valve guides 1. If valve stem to valve guide clearance exceeds the wear limit, ream valve guide for next oversize valve stem (.015" ~.38mnT] available). 2. Use Reaming KitT526-6085-AEE when reaming a valve guide (Figure 11) to install valve with oversize stem. Kit has .003" I.,075mm) OS reamer with standard diameter pilot and .015" OS reamer with .003" OS pilot. • >• fthen going from standard size valve to oversize valve, always use reamer in sequence. IMPORTANT: \lways reface valve seat after valve guide has been reamed and use a suitable scraper to break the sharp corner (ID) at top of valve guide. Figure 11. Reaming Valve Guides refacing valve seats 1. Closely coordinate refacing valve seat with refacing valve face so that finished seat and valve face are concer.tric, and specified interference fit will be maintained. This is important so that valve and seat have a compression-tight fit. Be sure that refacer grinding wheels are properly dressed. 2. Grind valve seats to a true 45° angle. (Figure 12) Remove only enough stock to clean up pits and grooves or to correct valve seat runout. After seat has been refaced, use a seat width scale or a machinist scale to measure seat width. (Figure 12) Narrow seat, if necessary, to meet specifications. 3. If valve seat width exceeds maximum limit, remove enough stock from top edge and 'or bottom edge of seat tc reduce width to specifications. 4. On valve seats of all engines, use a 60° angle grinding wheel to remove slock from bottom of seats (raise seats) and use a 30° angle wheel to remove stock from top of seats (lower seats). 370 ENGINE - SA-9 06020 Figure 12. Refacing Valve Seat 5. Finished valve seat should contact approximate center of valve face. It is good practice to determine where valve seat contacts face by coating seat with Prussian blue and setting valve in place. Rotate valve with light pressure. If blue is transferred to center of valve face, contact is satisfactory. If blue is transferred to top edge of valve face, lower the valve seat. If blue is transferred to bottom edge of valve face, raise valve seat. ROCKER ARM STUD REPLACEMENT 1. If necessary to remove a rocker arm stud, use Tool Kit T62F-6A527-B which contains a stud remover, a .006" (.15mm) oversize reamer and a .015" (.38mm) oversize reamer. 2. To press in replacement studs, use Stud Replacer T69P-6049-D. I 06021 Figure 13. Removing Rocker Arm Stud 5D-10 - ENGIN E 3. Broken or rocker arm studs with damaged threads may be replaced with standard studs. 4. Replace loose studs in head with .006" or .015" oversize studs which are available for service. 5. Identify standard and oversize studs by measuring stud diameter within 1-1 8" (28.6mm) from pilot end of stud. Stud diameters are: Standard ; .3714"-.3721" .006" Oversize: .3774"-.7781" .015" Oversize: .3864"-.3871" 6. When going from standard-size rocker arm stud to .015" oversize stud, always use .006" oversize reamer before finish-reaming with .015" oversize reamer. NOTE: Cut off threaded part of stud to permit correct tool remover installation. a. Position sleeve of rocker arm stud Remover Tool T62F-6A527-B over stud with bearing end down. Thread puller into sleeve and over stud until fully bottomed. Hold puller with wrench, then rotate sleeve clockwise to remove stud. (Figure 13) If rocker arm stud was broken off flush with stud boss, use an easy-out to remove broken stud, following instructions of tool manufacturer. b. If replacing a loose rocker arm stud, ream stud bore with correct reamer (or reamers in sequence) for selected oversize stud. (Figure 14) Figure 14. Reaming Rocker Arm Stud Bore IMPORTANT: Make certain that metal particles DO NOT ENTER valve area. c. Use Tool T69P-6049-D when installing stud. (Figure 15) Figure 15. Installing Stud VALVES 1. Minor pits, grooves, etc, may be removed. Discard severely damaged valves, or if face runout or stem clearance exceeds specifications. 2. Discard any worn or damaged valve train parts. REFACING VALVES 1. Closely coordinate valve refacing operation with valve seat refacing operations so that finished angles of valve face and of valve seat will meet specifications and provide a compression-tight fit. Be sure that re- facer grinding wheels are properly dressed. 2. If valve face runout is excessive and/or to remove pits and grooves, reface valves to a true 44° angle. Remove only enough stock to correct runout or to clean up pits and grooves. If edge of valve head is less than 1/32" (,8mm) thick after grinding, replace valve, as valve will run too hot in engine. Interference fit of valve and seat should not be lapped out. 3. Remove all grooves or score marks from end of valve stem and chamfer it as necessary. Do not remove more than .010" (,25mm) from end of the valve stem. Valve stem from valve lock groove to end (Figure 7, preceding) must not be shorter than minimum specified length. 4. If valve and 'or valve seat has been refaced, it will be necessary to check clearance between rocker arm pad and valve stem with valve train assembly installed in engine. R1078 ASSEMBLY 1. Install each valve in port from which it was removed or to which it was fitted. Install a new stem seal on valve. 2. Install valve spring over the valve, then install spring retainer. Compress spring and install retainer locks. (Figure 16) 3. Measure assembled height of valve spring from surface of cylinder head spring pad to underside of spring retainer with dividers.(Figure 17)Check dividers against a scale. If assembled height is greater than specifications, install .030" (.76mm) thick spaceKs), as required, between cylinder head spring pad and valve spring for correct height. IMPORTANT: Do not install spacers unless necessary. Spacers in excess of recommendations will overstress valve springs and overload camshaft lobes which could lead to spring breakage and/or worn camshaft lobes. INSTALLATION 1. Clean all gasket surfaces to obtain flat, smooth cylinder head and block mating. 2. Position new cylinder head gasket over cylinder head dowels on block. Position cylinder head on block and install attaching bolts. 3. Cylinder head bolts are tightened in 3 Progressive steps. Torque all bolts in sequence and finally to specifications. (Figure 18) When head bolts have been tightened, following this procedure, it is not necessary to retorque bolts after extended operation. Bolts may be checked, however, and retorqued, if desired. Figure 18. Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Sequence 4. Install valve mechanism as outlined, preceding. 5. Install rocker arm coveKs) as described previously. 6. Install intake manifold as outlined, preceding. 7. Install exhaust manifolds as described previously. ENGINE - 5C-11 06104 Figure 16 . Valve Assembly OIL REMOVAL 1. Drain crankcase. Remove oil level dipstick and tube. 2. Remove seawater pump adjustment bracket. 3. Remove attaching screws and washers and remove oil pan. CLEANING 1. Scrape any dirt or mets.1 particles from inside of pan. 2. Scrape all old gasket material from gasket surface. 3. Wash pan in solvent and dry thoroughly. Be sure that all foreign particles are removed from below baffle plate. INSPECTION 1. Check pan for cracks, holes, damaged drain plug threads and loose baffle or damaged gasket surface. 2. Inspect for damage (uneven surface caused by over- torquing bolts) at bolt holes. Straighten surfaces as required. 3. Repair any damage or replace pan if repairs cannot be made. INSTALLATION 1. Before installing aluminum oil pan. coat surfaces of front and rear oil pan seals (Figure 1) with Oil Pan Sealant (C-92-52238-1). 2. Clean gasket surfaces of block and oil pan. Oil pan has a 2-piece gasket. Coat block surface and oil pan gasket with sealer. Position oil pan gaskets on cyl PAN 3. Position oil pan front seal on cylinder front cover. 4. Position oil pan rear seal on rear main bearing cap. (Figure 1) Be sure that tabs on seals are over oil pan gasket. 5. Install oil pan bolts, torquing to specifications from center outward in each direction. 6. Install oil level dipstick. Fill crankcase with correct grade and quantity of engine oil. Start engine and check for oil leaks. REAR SEAL inuer block. Figure 1. Oil Pan Gaskets and Seals Installed 5D-12 -ENGIN E OIL PUMP REMOVAL 1. Remove oil pan as outlined, preceding. 2. Remove oil pump inlet tube and screen assembly. 3. Remove oil pump attaching bolts and remove oil pump, gasket and intermediate drive shaft. DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove oil inlet tube from oil pump and remove gasket. 2. Remove cover attaching screws and cover. Remove inner rotor and shaft assembly, then remove outer race. 3. Insert a self-threading sheet metal screw of proper diameter into oil pressure relief valve chamber cap and pull cap out of chamber. Remove spring and plunger. CLEANING 1. Wash all parts in a solvent and dry them thoroughly with compressed air. 2. Clean inside of pump housing and pressure relief valve chamber with a brush. Be sure that all dirt and metal particles are removed. INSPECTION 1. Refer to specifications for clearances and wear limits. 2. Check inside of pump housing and outer race and rotor for damage or excessive wear. 3. Replace cover if cover mating surface is worn, scored or grooved. 4. Measure outer race to housing clearance. (Figure 2) Feeler Gauge 06025 Figure 2. Checking Outer Race to Housing Clearance 5. With rotor assembly installed in housing, place a straight edge over rotor assembly and housing. Measure clearance (rotor end play) between straight edge and rotor and outer race. (Figure 3) NOTE: Outer race, shaft and rotor are replaceable as an assembly. 6. Check drive shaft to housing bearing clearance by measuring OD of shaft and ID of housing bearing. 7. Inspect relief valve spring for collapsed or worn condition. Check relief valve spring tension. If spring tension is not within specifications, and or spring is worn or damaged, replace spring. 8. Check relief valve piston for scores and free operation in bore. ASSEMBLY Oil pump assembly is shown in Figure 4. 1. Oil all parts thoroughly. 2. Install oil pressure relief valve plunger, spring and new cap. 3. Install outer race and inner rotor and shaft assembly. Be sure that dot (identification mark) on outer race is facing outward and on same side as identification mark on rotor. The race rotor and shaft and outer race are serviced as an assembly. Do not replace one part without replacing other. 4. Install cover and torque cover attaching screws to specifi cations. 5. Position new gasket and oil inlet tube on oil pump and install attaching bolts. ENGINE - 50-13 INSTALLATION 1. Prime oil pump by filling either inlet or outlet port with engine oil. Rotate pump shaft to distribute oil within pump body. 2. Position intermediate drive shaft into distributor socket. With shaft firmly seated in distributor socket, stop on shaft should touch roof of crankcase. Remove shaft and position stop as necessary. 3. Position new gasket on pump housing. With stop properly positioned, insert intermediate drive shaft into oil pump. Install pump and shaft as an assembly. Figure 4. Oil Pump Assembly 06105 Figure 5. Oil Pump and Inlet Tube Installed IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to force pump into position if it will not seat readily. Drive shaft hex may be misaligned with distributor shaft. To align, rotate intermediate drive shaft into a new position. 4. Torque oil pump attaching screws to specifications. 5. Clean and install oil pump inlet tube and screen assembly. (Figure 5) 6. Install oil pan and related parts as outlined under "Oil Pan Installation", preceding. 5D-14 -ENGIN E FLYWHEEL REMOVAL 1. Remove transmission and oil cooler (if so equipped). 2. Remove solenoid bracket complete with solenoid, harness and trim indicator wires. 3. Remove flywheel cover and housing. 4. Remove drive plate or clutch and pressure plate from flywheel. 5. Remove flywheel attaching bolts and remove flywheel. INSPECTION 1. Inspect flywheel for cracks, heat check or other damage that may make it unfit for further service. Machine friction surface of flywheel if surface is scored or worn. If necessary to remove more than .045" (1.14mm) of stock from original thickness, replace flywheel. 2. Inspect ring gear for worn, chipped or cracked teeth. If teeth are damaged, replace ring gear. 3. Install a dial indicator with indicator point pressing against flywheel face. (Figure 6) Turn flywheel and be sure that it is full forward or backward so that crankshaft end play will not be indicated as flywheel runout. 4. If clutch face runout exceeds specifications, remove flywheel and check for burrs between flywheel and face of crankshaft mounting flange. If no burrs exist, check runout of crankshaft mounting flange. Replace flywheel or machine crankshaft-flywheel mounting face sufficiently to true-up the surface. If mounting flange runout exceeds specifications, replace flange or reinstall it on flywheel. Figure 6. Checking Flywheel Face Runout INSTALLATION 1. Coat threads of flywheel attaching bolts with oil resistant sealer. Position flywheel on crankshaft flange. Install and torque bolts in sequence across from each other. 2. Install drive plate or clutch and pressure plate. Align clutch plate (if used) with pilot bearing in flywheel. 3. Install flywheel housing and cover. 4. Install solenoid bracket complete with solenoid, harness and trim indicator wires. 5. Install transmission and oil cooler (if so equipped). engine -5D-15 PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS EMCVAL Drain water from cooling system and oil from crankcase. Remove intake and exhaust manifolds, cylinder heads, oil pan and oil pump as outlined, preceding. Remove anv ridges and or deposits from upper end of cylinder bores as follows: a. Turn crankshaft until piston (to be removed) is at bottom of its travel and place a cloth on piston head to collect cuttings. b. Remove any ridge and/or deposits from upper end of cylinder bores. c. Remove cylinder ridge with a ridge cutter. Follow instructions furnished by tool manufacturers. Never cut into ring travel area in excess of 1/32" (,8mm) when removing ridges. 3. Make sure that all connecting rod caps are marked to be reinstalled in original positions. Turn crankshaft until connecting rod being removed is down. Remove connecting rod nuts and cap. Push connecting rod and piston assembly out top of cylinder with handle end of a hammer. Avoid damage to crankshaft journal or cylinder wall when removing piston and rod. Remove bearing inserts from connecting rod and cap. Install cap on connecting rod from which it was removed. DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove bearing inserts from connecting rod end cap. 2. Mark pistons and pins to assure reassembly on same rod and installation in same cylinders from which they were removed. 3. Remove piston rings. Using an arbor press and tool shown in Figure 1, press piston pin from piston and connecting rod. Figure 1. Removing or Installing Piston Pin CONNECTING RODS CLEANING Remove bearings from rod and cap. Identify bearings if re-using. Clean connecting rod in solvent, including rod bore and back of inserts. DO NOT use a caustic cleaning solution. Blow out all passages with compressed air. INSPECTION Carefully inspect connecting rods and related parts to meet specifications. \ arious forms of engine wear, related to these parts, can be readily identified. 1. Shiny surface on pin boss side of piston usually indicates a bent connecting rod, or piston pin hole is not in proper relation to piston skirt and ring grooves. 2. Abnormal connecting red bearing wear may be caused by either a bent connecting rod, an improperly machined crankpir, or a tapered connecting rod bore. 3. Twisted connecting rods will not create a wear pattern easy to identify, but badly twisted rods will disturb action of entire piston, rings and connecting rod assembly and may cause excessive oil consumption. 4. Inspect connecting rods for signs of fractures and bearing bores for out-of-round and taper. If bore exceeds recommended limits and/or, if connecting rod is fractured, replace rod. 5. If wear is present in piston pin area, replace connecting rod. 6. Replace defective connecting rod nuts and bolts. 7. Check connecting rods for bend or twist on a suitable alignment fixture. Follow instructions of fixture manufacturer. If bend and/or twist exceeds specifications, straighten or replace connecting rod. 5D-16 - ENGINE 1272R1 PISTONS, PINS AND RINGS CLEANING Remove deposits from piston surfaces. Clean gum or varnish from piston skirt, piston pins and rings with solvent. DO NOT use a caustic cleaning solution or a wire brush to clean pistons. Clean ring grooves with ring groove cleaner. (Figure 2) Make sure that oil ring slots (or holes) are clean. Figure 2. Cleaning Piston Ring Grooves—Typical INSPECTION 1. Carefully inspect pistons for fractures a: ring lands, skirts and pin bosses and for scuffed, rough or scored skirts. If lower inner portion of ring grooves has a high step, replace piston. The step will interfere with ring operation and cause excessive ring side clearance. 2. Spongy, eroded areas near edge of top of piston usually are caused by detonation or pre-ignition. A shiny surface on thrust surface of piston, offset from center- line between piston pin holes, may be caused by a bent connecting rod. Replace pistons which show- signs of excessive wear, wavy ring lands or fractures or damage from detonation or pre-ignition. 3. Check piston to cylinder bore clearance by measuring piston and bore diameters. Refer to specifications for proper clearance. Refer to "Cylinder Block Inspection" preceding, for bore measurement procedure. Measure OD of piston with micrometers at centerline of piston pin bore and at 90° to pin bore axis. Check ring side clearance following procedure under "Fitting Piston Rings." preceding. 4. If wear is present in piston pin area, replace piston. 5. Replace all rings which are scored, chipped or cracked Check end gap and side clearance. DO NOT transfer rings from one piston to another. ASSEMBLY Piston, connecting rod and related parts are shown in Figure 3. IMPORTANT: Check fit of a new piston in cylinder bore before assembling piston pin to connecting rod. Piston pin bore of a connecting rod and diameter of piston pin must be within specifications. 1. Apply light coat of engine oil to all parts. Assemble piston to connecting rod with cylinder number side of connecting rod and indentation notch in piston positioned as shown in "igure 4. On replacement connecting rods, install large-chamfered side of conR1078 Figure 3. Piston, Connecting Rod and Related Parts nectir.g rod bearing bore toward crankshaft cheek, facing toward front of engine on right bank rods and facing toward rear of engine of left bank rods. 2. Start piston pin in piston and connecting rod (this may require a very light tap with a mallet). Using an arbor press, press piston pin thru piston and connecting rod until pin is centered in piston. (Figure 4) 3. Install piston rings. Figure 4. Correct Piston and Rod Positions ENGINE - 5C-17 4. Be sure that bearing inserts and bearing bore in connecting rod and cap are clean. Foreign material under inserts will distort bearing and cause a failure. Install bearing inserts in connecting rod and cap with tangs fitting in slots provided. NOTE: An oven is recommended to heat small end of connecting rod prior to installation of piston pin. (Figure 5) Figure 5. Heating Connecting Rod FITTING PISTON RINGS 1. Select proper ring set for size of cylinder bore. 2. Position ring in cylinder bore in which it is to be used. 3. Push ring down into bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered. 4. Use head of a piston to position ring in bore so that ring is square with cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to ring or cylinder bore. 05033 Figure 6. Checking Piston Ring Gap Figure 7. Checking Piston Ring Side Clearance 5. Measure gap between ends of ring with a feeler gauge. (Figure 6) If ring gap is less or greater than specified limits, try another ring set. 6. Check ring side clearance of compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between ring and its lower land. (Figure 7) Gauge should slide freely around entire ring circumference without binding. Wear forms a step at inner portion of lower land. If lower lands have high steps, replace piston. INSTALLATION 1. If installing new piston rings, remove cylinder wall glaze. Follow instructions of tool manufacturer. 2. Oil piston rings, pistons and cylinder walls with light engine oil. IMPORTANT: Be sure to install pistons in same cylinders from which they were removed or to which they were fitted. Connecting rod and bearing caps are numbered from l-to-4 in right bank and from 5-to-8 in left bank, beginning at front of engine. Numbers on connecting rod and bearing cap must be on same side when installed in cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one block or cylinder to another, fit new bearings and number connecting rod to cor respond with new cylinder number. 3. Make sure that ring gaps are properly spaced around circumference of piston. (Figure 8) 4. Install piston ring compressor on pistcn and push piston in with a hammer handle until piston is slightly below top of cylinder. (Figure 9) Be sure to guide connecting rods to avoid damaging crankshaft journals. Install piston with indentation notch in piston dome toward front of engine. 5. Check clearance of each bearing as outlined, preceding. 6. After bearings have been fitted, apply light coat of engine oil to journals and bearings. 7. Turn crankshaft throw to bottom of its stroke Push piston down until connecting rod bearing seats on crankshaft journal. 8- Install connecting rod cap. Torque nuts to specifications. 5D-18 - ENGIN E Figure 8. Piston Ring Spacing 9. After installing piston and connecting rod assemblies, check side clearance between connection rods on each crankshaft journal. (Figure 10) 10. Disassemble, clean and assemble oil pump. Clean all gasket surfaces. 11. Prime oil pump by filling either inlet port or outlet port with engine oil and rotating pump shaft to distribute oil within housing. Install oil pump and oil pan . 12. Install cylinder heads and intake manifold. 13. Fill crankcase with correct engine oil. 14. Operate engine at fast idle and check for oil and coolant leaks. When engine temperature has stabilized, adjust engine idle speed and idle fuel mixture. Figure 10. Checking Connecting Rod Side Clearance R1078 ENGINE - 5C-19 CRANKSHAFT Crankshaft and related parts are shown in Figure 1. 6. Make sure that all bearing caps (main and connecting rod) are marked for re-installing in their original REMOVAL locations. Turn crankshaft until connecting rod (from which cap is being removed) is down, and remove 1. Remove flywheel and mount engine inverted on an bearing cap. Push connecting rod and piston assembly engine stand. up into cylinder. Repeat this procedure until all con2. Remove oil pan and oil pump as outlined, preceding. necting rod bearing caps are removed. 3. Remove cylinder block front cover as described pre-7. Remove main bearing caps. viously. 8. Carefully lift crankshaft out of block so that thrust 4. Remove spark plugs to allow easy rotation of crank-bearing surfaces are not damaged. Handle crankshaft shaft. with care to avoid possible fracture or damage to 5. Remove timing chain and sprockets as outlined, pre-finished surfaces. ceding. 9. To refinish journals, correct minor imperfections. Figure 1. Crankshaft and Related Parts CLEANING 1. Handle crankshaft with care to avoid possible fractures or damage to finished surfaces. Clean crankshaft with solvent, then blowout all oil passages with compressed air. 2. Use crocus cloth to remove sharp edges or burrs which might damage oil seal during installation or cause premature seal wear. DO NOT use crocus c.oth to extent that seal surface becomes polished. A finely- polished surface may produce poor sealing or cause premature seal wear. 3. Correct minor scores with an oil stone. If journals are severely marred or exceed wear limit, refinish to size for next undersize bearing. REFINISHING JOURNALS 1. Refinish journals to give proper clearance with next undersize bearing. If journal will not clean up to maximum undersize bearing available, replace crankshaft. 2. Always reproduce same journal shoulder radius that existed originally. Too small a radius results in fatigue failure of crankshaft. Too large a radius results in bearing failure due to radius ride of bearing. 5A-20 -ENGINE 3. After refinishing journals, chamfer oil holes, then polish journal with No. 320 grit polishing cloth and engine oil. Crocus cloth also may be used as a polishing agent. INSPECTION 1. Inspect main and connecting rod journals for cracks, scratches, grooves or scores. Inspect crankshaft oil seal surface for nicks, sharp edges or burrs which might damage oil seal during installation or cause premature seal wear. 2. Measure diameter of each journal in at least 4 places to determine out-of-round, taper or undersize condition. (Figure 2) Figure 2. Crankshaft Journal Measurement 3. On engines with clutch and pressure plate, check fit of clutch pilot bushing in bore of crankshaft. Bushing is pressed into crankshaft and should not be loose. Inspect inner surface of bushing for wear or a bell- mouth condition. Check ID of bushing. (Figure 1) Replace worn or damaged bushing or if ID is not within specifications. INSTALLATION 1. Remove rear journal oil seai from block and rear main bearing cap. 2. Remove main bearing inserts from block and bearing caps. 3. Remove connecting rod bearing inserts from connecting rods and caps. 4. If crankshaft mair. bearing journals are refinished to a definite undersize, install correct undersize bearings. Be sure that bearing inserts and bores are clean. Foreign material under inserts will distort bearing and cause a failure. 5. Place upper main bearing inserts in position in bores with tang fitting in slot provided. 6. Install lower main bearing inserts in bearing caps. 7. Install crankshaft rear oil seal as described previously. 8. Carefully lower crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage bearing surfaces. 9. After bearings are fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to journals and bearings . Install new seal in rear main bearing cap and install rear main bearing cap by following steps under "Main Bearing Replacement", preceding. Install all bearing caps, except thrust bearing cap (No. 3 bearing). Be sure that main bearing caps are installed in their original locations. Torque bearing cap bolts to specifications. 10. Install thrust bearing cap with bolts finger-tight. 11. Pry crankshaft forward against thrust surface of upper half of bearing. (Figure 3) 12. Hold crankshaft forward and pry thrust bearing cap to rear to aiign thrust surfaces of both halves of bearing. 13. Retain forward pressure on crankshaft. Tighten cap bolts to specifications. 14. Force crankshaft toward rear oi engine. 15. Check crankshaft end play. 16. Install new bearing inserts in connecting rods and caps. Check clearance of each bearing following recommended procedure. 17. After fitting connecting rod bearings, apply a light coat of engine oil to journals and bearings. 18. Turn crankshaft throw to bottom of its stroke. Push piston ail the way down until rod bearing seats on crankshaft journal. 5D-21 - ENGIN E 670 19. Install connecting rod cap and torque nuts tc specifications. 20. After installing piston and connecting rod assemblies, check side clearance between connecting rods on each connecting rod crar.kshaft journal. (Figure 4) 21. Install timing chair and sprockets. 22. Install cylinder block front cover. 23. Install oil pan and oil pump. 24. Remove engine from stand and install flywheel, 25. install spark plugs. 06029 Figure 4. Checking Connecting Rod Side Clearance CRANKSHAFT END PLAY 1. Force crankshaft toward rear of engine. 2. Install dial indicator so that contact point rests against crankshaft flange and indicator axis is parallel to crankshaft axis. (Figure 5) 3. Zero dial indicator. Push crankshaft forward and note reading on dial. 4. If end play exceeds wear limit, replace thrust bearing. If end play is less than minimum limit, inspect thrust bearing faces for scratches, burrs, nicks or dirt. If thrust faces are not damaged or dirty, they probably were not aligned properly. 5. Install thrust bearing and align faces following procedure recommended under "Main Bearing Replacement", prcccding. Check end play. Figure 5. Checking Crankshaft End Play CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT Replacing crankshaft rear oil seal to correct for oil leaks requires replacement of both upper and lower seal halves, as follows: 1. Remove oil pan as outlined, preceding. 2. Loosen all main bearing cap bolts to allow crankshaft to lower slightly but not to exceed 1/32" (.8mm). 3. Remove oil seal from bearing cap and cylinder block. Exercise caution to prevent scratching or damaging crankshaft seal surface. 4. Carefully clean seal grooves in cap and block with brush and solvent. 5. Dip split-lip type seal halves in clean engine oil. 6. Carefully inslall upper seal (cylinder block) into its groove with undercut side of seal toward FRONT of engine, (Figure 6) by rotating it on seal journal of crankshaft until approximately 3/8" (9.5mm) protrudes below parting surface. IMPORTANT: Be sure that no rubber has been shaved from outside diameter of seal by bottom edge of goove. 7. Tighten remaining bearing cap bolts and torque to specifications. IMPORTANT: Split-lip seals are used as replacement seals. If rear main bearing cap has a rear seal retaining pin, pin must be removed or split-lip seal will be damaged. 8- Install lower seal in rear main bearing cap with undercut side of seal toward FRONT of engine. (Figure 6) Allow seal to protrude approximately 3/8" above parting surface to mate with upper seal when cap is installed. 9. Apply thin coat of oil-resistant sealer to rear main bearing cap at rear of lop mating surface. DO NOT apply sealer to area forward of side seal groove. Install rear main bearing cap. Torque cap bolts to specifications. 10. Install oil pan a.-, described previously. 1272R1 5D-22 -ENGINE Figure 6. Installing Crankshaft Rear Seal ENGINE - 50-23 670 MAIN BEARINGS CHECKING CLEARANCE To obtain most accurate results, use Plastigage (or equivalent). Plastigage is a wax-like material which compresses evenly between bearing and journal surfaces without damaging either surface. Observe certain precautions. With engine upside-down, crankshaft rests on upper bearings and total clearance can be measured between lower bearing and journal. \OTE: To assure proper sealing of crankshaft, all bearing cap bolts should be accurately torqued. In addition, before checking bearing fit, wipe surface of crankshaft journal and bearing clean of oil. 1. With oil pan and oil pump removed, and starting with rear main bearing, remove bearing cap and wipe oil from journal and bearing cap. 2. Place a piece of gauging plastic the full width of bearing (parallel to crankshaft) on journal. (Figure 1) 3. Install bearing cap and evenly torque retaining bolts to specifications. 4. Remove bearing cap. Flattened gauging plastic will adhere to either bearing shell or journal. 5. Graduated scale on edge of gauging plastic envelope is correlated in thousandths of an inch. Without removing gauging plastic, measure its compressed width (at widest point) with graduations on gauging plastic envelope.(Figure 2) Figure 1. Gauging Plastic on Journal NOTE: Normally, main bearing journals wear evenly and are not out-of-round. However, if a bearing is being fitted to an out-of-round journal f.001" \^_.025mm~\ max.), be sure to fit to maximum diameter of journal. If bearing is fitted to minimum diameter and journal is out-of-round .001", interference between bearing and journal will result in rapid bearing failure. If flattened gauging plastic tapers toward middle or ends, there is a difference in clearance which indicates taper, low spot or other irregularity of bearing or journal. Be sure to measure journal with a micrometer if flattened gauging plastic indicates more than .001" difference. Figure 2. Measuring Gauging Plastic 6. If bearing clearance is within specifications, bearing insert is satisfactory. If clearance is not within specifications, replace insert. Always replace both upper and lower insert as a unit. NOTE: If a new bearing cap is being installed and clearance is less than .001", inspect for burrs or nicks. If none is found, then install shims as required. 7. A standard .001" or .002" Q025 °r .05mmJ undersize bearing may produce proper clearance. If not, regrind crankshaft journal for use with next undersize bearing. 8. Proceed to next bearing. After all bearings have been checked, rotate crankshaft to see that there is no excessive drag. 9. Measure crankshaft end play (see specifications in Section 8). Measure crankshaft end play with a dial indicator as outlined in crankshaft section. 10. Install new rear main bearing oil seal in cylinder block and main bearing cap. REPLACEMENT 1. Remove and inspect crankshaft. 2. Remove main bearings from cylinder blcck and main bearing caps. 3. Coat bearing surfaces of new, correct size, main bearings with oil and install in cylinder block and main bearing caps. 4. Install crankshaft. 5D-24 - ENGIN E CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS Connecting rod bearings are precision insert type and do not utilize shims for adjustment. DO NOT FILE RODS OR ROD CAPS. If clearances are found to be excessive, a new bearing will be required. Bearings are available in standard size and.001" and .002" (.025 and .05mm) under- size for new and used standard size crankshafts, and in .010" and .020" (.254 and .51mm) undersize for reconditioned crankshafts. CHECKING CLEARANCE and REPLACEMENT 1. With oil pan and oil pump off, remove connecting rod cap and bearing. 2. Inspect bearing for evidence of wear or damage. Do not reinstall defective bearings. 3. Wipe bearings and crankpin clean of oil. 4. Measure crankpin for out-of-round or taper with a micrometer. If not within specifications, replace or recondition crankshaft. If within specifications and a new bearing is to be installed, measure maximum diameter of crankpin to determine new bearing size required. 5. If within specifications, measure new or used bearing clearances with Plastigage or equivalent. Figure 4. Measuring Plastigage on Crankpin d. Remove bearing cap and, using scale on gauging plastic envelope, measure gauging plastic width at widest point. (Figure 4) 6. If clearance exceeds specifications, select a new, correct size bearing and remeasure clearance. 7. Coat bearing surface with oil, install rod cap and torque nuts to specifications. 8. When all connecting rod bearings have been installed, tap each rod lightly (parallel to crankpin) to assure clearance. 9. Measure all connecting rod side clearances (see specifications in Section 8) between connecting rod cap(s). (Figure 5) Figure 3. Plastigage on Crankpin NOTE: If cl bearing is being fitted to an out-of-round crankpin, be sure to fit to maximum diameter of crank- pin. If bearing is fitted to minimum diameter, and crank- pin is out-of-round .001" (,025mm), interference between bearing and crankpin will result in rapid bearing failure. &. Place a piece of gauging plastic the full width of crankpin (parallel to crankshaft). (Figure 3) b. Install bearing in connecting rod and cap. c. Install bearing cap and torque nuts evenly to specifi cations. CALTION-. Do not turn crankshaft with gauging plastic installed. Figure 5. Checking Connecting Rod Side Clearance 67C ENG1 NE - 5D-25 MAIN and CONNECTING ROD BEARING INSERTS Figure 6. Typical Bearing Failures CLEANING Clean bearing inserts and caps thoroughly in solvent and dry with compressed air. DO NOT scrape gum or varnish deposits from bearing shells. INSPECTION Inspect each bearing carefully. Replace bearings with scored, chipped or worn surface. Typical examples of unsatisfactory bearings and causes are shown in Figure 6. Copper lead bearing base may be visible thru bearing overlay. This does not mean that bearing is worn. It is not necessary to replace bearing if bearing clearance is within recommended limits. Check clearance of apparent satisfactory bearings with Plastigage. Fit new bearings. 5D-26 - ENGIN E TORSIONAL DAMPER REMOVAL 1. Remove alternator belt. 2. Remove pulley by removing 3 attaching bolts. 3. Remove torsional damper retaining bolt. 4. Install Tool T58P-6316A and T62F-6316B and pull off torsional damper. (Figure 1) Figure 1. Removing Crankshaft Vibration Damper CLEANING 1. Clean oil seal contact surface on crankshaft damper or sleeve with solvent to remove any corrosion, sludge or varnish deposits. Excess deposits, that are not readily removed with solvent, may be removed with crocus cloth. 2. Use crocus cloth to remove any sharp edges or burrs which might damage the oil seal during installation or cause premature seal wear. DO NOT use crocus cloth to polish seal surface. A finely polished surface may produce poor sealing or cause premature seal wear. INSPECTION Inspect crankshaft damper or sleeve oil sea] surface for nicks, sharp edges or burrs that might damage oil seal during installation or cause premature seal wear. INSTALLATION CAUTION: Inertia weight section of torsional damper is assembled to hub with a rubber type material. Installation procedures (with proper tool) must be followed, or movement of inertia weight section on hub will destroy tuning of torsional damper. 1. Pull torsional damper onto crankshaft with tool T52L6306- AEE. (Figure 2) 2. Install retaining bolt and washer. 3. Install pulley and alternator belt. Figure 2. Installing Crankshaft Vibration Damper CYLINDER BLOCK FRONT COVER and FRONT SEAL REMOVAL 5. Remove circulating water pump pulley and drive belt. 6. Remove torsional damper as outlined. 1. Drain water and oil from engine. 7. Remove fuel filter and fuel pump. 2. Remove oil pan as outlined. 8. Remove cylinder block front cover and water pump as 3. Remove alternator adjustment bracket. an assembly. Transfer water pump to new cylinder 4. Remove alternator and seawater pump as an assembly block front cover, if cover is being replaced. by removing mounting bracket from cvlinder block front 9. Discard cylinder block front cover gasket. cover. R1078 ENGINE - 5C-27 FRONT OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT 1. Drive out old seal with a pin-punch. Clean out recess in cover. 2. Coat new seal with grease, then install seal in cover. Drive seal in until fully seated in recess. (Figure 3) Check seal after insta.lation to be sure that spring is properly positioned in seal. D 06042 Figure 3. Installing Crankshaft Front Oil Seal INSTALLATION 1. Clean all gasket surfaces. 2. Lubricate timing chain with engine oil. 3. Coat gasket surfaces of block and cover with sealer and position new gasket on block. 4. Position cylinder front cover on cylinder block. Use care when installing cover to avoid seal damage or possible gasket mislocation. 5. Install cylinder front cover to seal alignment tool into proper position. (Figure 4) 6. Coat threads of attaching screws with oil resistant sealer and install screws. Torque cover-to-block attaching screws to soecifications. Remove pilot. 7. Apply Lubriplate to oil seal rubbing surface of vibration damper inner hub to prevent damage to the seal. Apply white lead and oil mixture to front of crankshaft for damper installation. 8. Line up crankshaft vibration damper keyway with key on crankshaft. Install vibration damper on crankshaft. 9. Install oil pan as outlined, preceding. 10. Install fuel pump, using a new gasket. Connect fuel pump outlet line. 11. Install water pump pulley, drive belt and spacer. 12. Install alternator adjustment bracket. 13. Install alternator, seawater pump and mounting bracket. Install drive belts. NOTE: A spacer is used between front cover and alternator/ seawater pump bracket. 14. Operate engine and check for leaks. Figure 4. Front Cover Installation 5D-28 - ENGIN E TIMING CHAIN, SPROCKETS and FUEL PUMP ECCENTRIC REMOVAL 1. Remove cylinder block front cover. 2. Slide off crankshaft front oil slinger. 3. Check timing chain deflection. 4. Crank engine until timing marks on sprockets are positioned as shown in Figure 7. 5. Remove crankshaft sprocket cap screw, washers and fuel pump eccentric. Slide both sprockets and timing chain forward and remove as an assembly. TIMING CHAIN and SPROCKETS CLEANING 1. Clean all parts in solvent and dry with compressed air. 2. Lubricate timing chain with engine oil before installing on engine. INSPECTION 1. Inspect chain for broken links. 2. Inspect sprockets for cracks and worn or damaged teeth. 3. Replace all components of timing chain and sprocket assembly if any one item needs replacement. TIMING GEARS CLEANING Clean gears in solvent, and dry with compressed air. INSPECTION Inspect gear teeth for scores, nicks, etc. Note condition of teeth contact pattern. If teeth are scored, replace gears. FUEL PUMP ECCENTRIC CLEANING Clean fuel pump eccentric in solvent and dry with compressed air. INSPECTION Inspect fuel pump drive eccentric for scores, nicks and excessive wear. Replace eccentric if scored. TIMING CHAIN DEFLECTION 1. Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction (as viewed from front) to take up slack on left sice of chain. 2. Establish a reference point on cylinder biock and measure from this point to chain (Figure 5) 3. Rotate crankshaft in opposite direction to take up slack on right of chain. Force left side of chain out REFERENCE POINT RIGHT SIDE OF CHAIN TAKE UP SLACK ON LE " SIDE, ESTABLISH REFERENCE POINT. MEAsURc DISTANCE A. TAKE UP SLACK ON RIGHT SIDE FORCE LEFT SIDE OUT MEASURE DISTANCE B. DEFLECTION IS A MINUS B. oec«6 Figure 5. Checking Timing Chain Deflection with fingers and measure distance between reference point and chain. The deflection is difference between the 2 measurements. If deflection exceeds specifications, replace timing chain and sprockets. INSTAI ATION 1. Position sprockets and timing chain on cam shaft. (Figure 6) Be sure that timing marks on sprockets are positioned as shown in Figure 7. 2. Install fuel pump eccentric, washers and camshaft sprocket cap screw. Torque cap screw to specifications and install crankshaft oil slinger. (Figure 8) 670 ENGINE - 5D-29 06045- Figure 8. Fuei Pump Eccentric and Front Ci! Slinger Installed 5D-30 ENGIN E 670 CAMSHAFT Camshaft and related parts are shown in Figure 1. REMOVAL 1. Remove cylinder front cover and timing chain, following procedure under "Cylinder Front Cover and Timing Chain Removal", preceding. 2. Disconnect coil high tension lead from coil. Remove distributor cap and spark plug wire assembly. 3. Disconnect ignition coil wires from coil. 4. Remove distributor hold-down bolt and clamp and remove distributor. 5. Remove rocker arm covers as outlined, preceding. 6. Remove intake manifold as described previously. 7. Remove valve mechanism as outlined, preceding. 8. Remove camshaft thrust plate. Carefully remove camshaft by pulling toward front of engine. Use caution to avoid damaging camshaft bearings. CLEANING AND INSPECTION 1. Clean camshaft in solvent and wipe dry. 2. Inspect camshaft lobes for scoring and signs of abnormal wear. Lobe wear characteristics may result in pitting in general area of lobe toe. This pitting is not detrimental to operation of camshaft, therefore, do not replace camshaft until lobe lift loss has exceeded .005" (.13mm). 3. Check lift of camshaft lobes with camshaft installed in engine or on " blocks. Refer to "Camshaft Lobe Lift", preceding. 4. Check distributor drive gear for broken or chipped teeth. 5. Remove light scuffs, scores or nicks from camshaft machined surfaces with a smooth oil stone. INSTALLATION 1. Oil camshaft journals and apply Lubriplate to lobes. Carefully slide camshaft thru bearings. Install camshaft thrust plate with groove toward cylinder block. Check camshaft end play. 2. Install valve mechanism as outlined. 3. Install intake manifold and related parts as outlined previously. 4. Connect water temperature sending unit. Figure 1. Camshaft and Related Parts 5. Connect throttle cable. 6. Replace crankshaft front oil seal. Install timing chain, cylinder front cover and related parts. 7. With No. 1 piston on TDC at end of compression stroke, position distributor in block with rotor at No. 1 firing position and points open. Install hold- down clamp. 8. Check valve clearance as outlined, preceding. 9. Install rocker arm covers as described previously. 10. Clean and install crankcase ventilation system. 11. Connect ignition coil wires. 12. Install distributor cap and plug wires. Connect high tension lead at coil. 13. Fill crankcase with proper engine oil. 14. Start engine and check and adjust ignition timing. 15. Operate engine at fast idle and check all hose connections and gaskets for leaks. When engine temperature has stabilized, adjust engine idle speed and idle fuel mixture. 06047 ENGINE - SD-31 CAMSHAFT BEARING REPLACEMENT Camshaft bearings are available pre-finished to size for standard journal diameters. Bearings are not interchangeable from one bore to another. 1. Remove camshaft, flywheel and crankshaft, following appropriate procedures. Push pistons to top of cylinders. 2. Remove camshaft rear bearing bore plug. Remove camshaft bearings with Tool T65L-6250-A. (Figure 2) 3. Select proper size expanding collet and back-up nut and assemble on expanding mandrel. With expanding collet collapsed, install collet assembly in camshaft bearing and tighten back-up nut on expanding mandrel until collet fits camshaft bearing. NOTE: Camshaft bearing diameters vary. Replacement bearings are numbered according to location in cylinder block. No. 1 bearing is at front of block. 4-. Assemble puller screw and extension (if necessary) as shown and install on expanding mandrel. Wrap a cloth around threads of puller screw to protect front bearing or journal. Tighten pulling nut against thrust bearing and pulling plate to remove camshaft bearing. Be sure to hold a wrench on end of puller screw to prevent screw from turning. 5. Repeat procedure for each bearing. To remove front bearing, install puller screw from rear of cylinder block . expanding colle t 6. Position new bearings at bearing bores with oil holes aligned and press in place with tool shown in Figure 2. Be sure to center pulling plate and puller screw to avoid damage to bearing. Failure to use correct expanding col- let can cause severe bearing damage. Be sure that front bearing is installed specified distance below front face of cylinder block. (Figure 3) Install core plug. (Figure 4) Install camshaft, crankshaft, flywheel and related parts, following appropriate 06049 procedures. Figure 2. Camshaft bearing Keplacement 06051 06050 Figure 3. Camshaft Front Bearing Measurement Figure 4. Installing Camshaft Bearing Plug 5D-32 ENGIN E 670 CAMSHAFT LOBE LIFT Check lift of each lobe in consecutive order and make a note of readings. 1. Remove valve rocker arm cover(s). 2. Remove rocker arm stud nut. ball unit and rocker arm. Use adaptor for ball-end push rods. •3. Be sure that push rod is in valve lifter socket. Install dial indicator so that ball socket adaptor of indicator is on end of push rod and in same plane as push rod movement. (Figure 5) 4. Disconnect ignition coil. 5. Turn crankshaft over until tappet or lifter is on base circle of camshaft lobe. At this point, push rod will be in its lowest position. 6. Zero the dial indicator. Continue to rotate crankshaft slowly until push rod is in fully-raised position (highest indicator reading). 7. Compare total lift (recorded on indicator) with specifications. 8. To check accuracy of original indicator reading, continue to rotate crankshaft until indicator reads zero. If lift on any lobe is below specified wear limits, replace camshaft and valve lifters operating Figure 5. Testing Camshaft Lobe Lift - Stud Mounted Rocki on worn lobe(s). Arms IMPORTANT: Do not rotate crankshaft until hydraulic 9. Remove dial indicator and auxiliary starter switch. valve lifters have had sufficient time to bleed down. 10. Lubricate rocker arm and ball unit w:ith molycote and Manually bleeding down will reduce time requirement. secure them in position with stud nut. To do otherwise may cause serious valve damage. 11. Install valve rocker arm cover(s). CAMSHAFT END PLAY 1. Sprocket can break or become damaged by prying against aluminum-nylon camshaft sprocket with valve train load on camshaft. Rocker arm adjusting nuts, therefore, must be backed off sufficiently to free camshaft. After checking camshaft end play, adjust valve clearance. 2. Push camshaft toward rear of engine. Install dial indicator so that indicator point is on camshaft sprocket attaching screw (Figure 6) or gear hub. Zero dial indicator. Position a large screwdriver between camshaft sprocket or gear and block. Pull camshaft forward and release it. 3. Compare dial indicator reading with specifications. If end play is excessive, replace thrust plate. If a spacer is used, check spacer for correct installation before it is removed. If spacer is correctly installed, replace thrust plate. 4. Remove dial indicator. Figure 6. Checking Camshaft End Play - V-8 Engine ENGINE - 5C-33 R1078 CYLINDER BLOCK CLEANING 1. After any cylinder bore repair operation, such as honing or deglazing, clean bore(s) with soap or detergent and water. Then, thoroughly rinse bore(s) with clean water to remove soap or detergent and wipe bore(s) dry with a clean, lint-free cloth. Finally, wipe bore(s) with a clean cloth dipped in engine oil. If these procedures are ignored, cylinder bore(s) may rust. 2. If engine is disassembled, thoroughly clean block with solvent. Remove old gasket material from all machined surfaces. Remove all pipe plugs that seal oil passages, then clean all passages. Blow out all passages, bolt holes, etc, with compressed air. 3. Be sure that threads in cylinder head bolt holes are clean. Dirt in threads may cause binding and result in a false torque reading. Use a tap to true-up threads and to remove any deposits. 4. Thoroughly clean grooves in crankshaft bearings and bearing retainers. INSPECTION 1. After thoroughly cleaning block, check for cracks. Minute cracks (not visible to naked eye) may be detected by coating suspected area with mixture of 25% kerosene and 75% light engine oil. Wipe part dry and immediately apply coating of zinc oxide dissolved in wood alcohol. If cracks are present, coating will become discolored at defective area. Replace block, if it is cracked. 2. Check all machined gasket surfaces for burrs, nicks, scratches and scores. Remove minor imperfections with an oil stone. 3. Check cylinder block for flatness of cylinder head gasket surface following procedure and specifications recommended for cylinder head. Cylinder block can be machined to bring cylinder head gasket surface within flatness specifications, but not to exceed .010" (.254mm), 4. Replace all expansion-type plugs with evidence of leakage. 5. Inspect cylinder walls for scoring, roughness or other signs of wear. Check cylinder bore for out-of-round and taper. Measure bore with an accurate bore gauge, following instructions of the manufacturer. Measure diameter of each cylinder bore at top, middle and bottom with gauge placed at right angles and parallel to centerline of engine. (Figure 7) Use only measurements obtained at 90° to engine centerline when calculating piston to cylinder bore clearance. 6. Refinish cylinders which are deeply scored and/or when out-of-round and/or taper exceeds wear limits. 7. If cylinder walls have minor surface imperfections, but out-of-round and taper are within limits, it may be possible to remove inperfections by honing cylinder walls and installing new service piston rings, if piston clearance is within specified limits. Figure 7. Cylinder Bore Out-of-Round and Taper REFINISHING CYLINDER WALLS 1. Honing is recommended for refinishing cylinder walls only when walls have minor scuffs or scratches, or for fitting pistons to specified clearance. The grade of hone is determined by amount of metal to be removed. Follow instructions of hone manufacturer. If coarse stones are used to start honing operation, leave enough material so that all hone marks can be removed with finishing hone w'hich is used to obtain proper piston clearance. 2. Refinish cylinder walls that are severely marred and/or worn beyond specified limits. Before any cylinder is refinished, all main bearing caps must be in place and tightened to proper torque so that crankshaft bearing bores will not become distorted from refinishing operation. 3. Refinish only damaged cylinder or cylinders. All pistons are same weight, both standard and oversize, therefore, various piston sizes can be used without upsetting engine balance. 4. To determine maximum oversize , refinish cylinder with most wear first. If cylinder will not clean up when refinished for maximum oversize piston, replace block. 5. Refinish cylinder to within approximately .0015" (.038mm) of required oversized diameter. This will allow enough stock for final step of honing so that correct surface finish and pattern are obtained. 6. For proper use of refinishing equipment, follow instructions of manufacturer. Only experienced personnel should perform this work. 7. Use a motor-driven, spring-pressure-type hone at a speed of 300-500 RPM. Hones of grit'sizes 180-220 will normally provide desired bore surface finish of 15/32 R.MS. When honing cylinder bores, use a lubricant mixture of equal parts of kerosene and SAE No. 20 motor oil. Operate hone to produce a crosshatch finish on cylinder bore. Cross-hatch pattern should be at an angle of approximately 30° to cylinder bore. 8. After final operation in either of 2 refinishing methods described, and prior to checking piston fit, thoroughly clean and oil cylinder walls. 9 . Check piston fit following procedure in this section. Mark pistons to correspond to cylinders for reinstallation. When cylinder refinishing has been completed 5D-34 - ENGIn e 670 and all pistons are fitted, thoroughly c.ean entire block and oil cylinder walls following procedure under "Cylinder Block Cleaning", preceding. FITTING PISTONS 1. Pistons are available for service in standard sizes .003" and .020" (.076 and .508mm) oversizes. 2. Measure piston OD and cylinder bore. Dimensions should be within specifications, and piston to bore clearance (bore ID minus piston OD) must be within specified limits. 3. If clearance is greater than maximum limit, recheck calculations to be sure that proper-size piston has been selected or check for a damaged piston, then try a new piston. 4. If clearance is less than minimum limit, recheck calculations before trying another piston. If none can be fitted, refinish cylinder to provide correct piston clearance. NOTE: When a piston has been fitted, mark it for assembly in cylinder to which it was fitted. 5. If taper, out-of-round and piston-to-cylinder-bore clearance conditions of cylinder bore are within specified limits, new piston rings will give satisfactory service. 6. If installing new rings in a used cylinder, that has not been refinished, remove cylinder wall glaze (refer to "Cylinder Block, Refinishing Cylinder Walls", preceding). Be sure to clean cylinder bore thoroughly. TO FIT A PISTON .... 1. Calculate size piston required by taking a cylinder bore check. 2. Select proper size piston to provide desired clearance (refer to specifications). Measure piston diameter in line with centerline of piston pin and at 90° to piston pin axis. 3. Make sure that piston and cylinder block are at room temperature (70°F). After any refinishing operation, allow cylinder bore to cool and make sure that piston and bore are clean and dry before piston fit is checked. REPAIRING ENGINE CASTING 1. Porosity or sand hole(s), which cause oil seepage or leakage, can occur with modern casting processes. Make complete inspection of engine and transmission. If leak is attributed to porous condition of cylinder block or sand hole(s). make repairs with metallic plastic. DO NOT repair cracks with this material. Confine repairs to those cast iron engine component surfaces (Figure 8) where inner wall surface is not exposed to engine coolant pressure or oil pressure, for example: a. Cylinder block surfaces extending along length of block, upward from oil pan rail to cylinder water jacket but not including machined areas. b. Lower rear face of cylinder block. c. Intake manifold casting. Repairs are not recommended to intake manifold exhaus: crossover section, since temperatures can exceed recommended temperature limit of 500° F. d. Cylinder front cover on engines using cast iron material. e. Cylinder head, along rocker arm cover gasket surface. 2. Use following procedure to repair porous areas or sand holes in cast iron. a. Clean surface to be repaired by grinding or rotary filing to a clean bright metal surface. Chamfer or undercut hole or porosity to a greater depth than rest of cleaned surface. Solid metal must surround hole. Openings larger than V (6.35mm) should not be repaired with metallic plastic. Openings in excess of '4" can be drilled, tapped and plugged with common tools. Clean repair area thoroughly. Metallic plastic will not stick to a dirty or oil surface. b. Mix metallic plastic base and hardener as directed on container. Stir thoroughly until uniform. R1078 FRONT AND LEFT SIDE TYPICAL FOR V-8 ENGINE REAR AND RIGHT SIDE 06106 Figure 8. Typical Cast Iron Cylinder Block Areas Repairable with Metallic Plastic c. Apply repair mixture with a suitable clean tool (putty knife, wood spoon, etc), forcing epoxy into hole or porosity. d. Allow repair mixture to harden by one of 2 methods: Heat cure with a 250° watt lamp placed 10" (25.4cm) from the repaired surface, or air dry for 10-12 hours at temperatures above 50° F. e. Sand or grind repaired area to blend with general cor.tour of surrounding surface. f. Paint surface to match rest of block. ENGINE - 5C-35 CORE PLUG REPLACEMENT REMOVAL 1. To remove a large core plug, drill a (12.7mm) hole in center of plug and pry it out with a large, drift punch. 2. On a small core plug, drill a (635mm) hole in center of plug and pry it out with a small pin punch. Clean and inspect plug bore. 3. Prior to installing a core plug, inspect plug bore for any damage that would interfere with proper sealing of plug. If bore is damaged, it is necessary to true surface by boring for next specified oversize plug. 4. Oversize (OS) plugs are identified by OS stamped in flat located on cup side of plug. 5. Coat plug and/or bore lightly with an oil-resistant (oil gailey) or water-resistant (cooling jacket) sealer and install it via procedure for cup-type or expansion- type, below. INSTALLATION 1. Install core plugs (Figure 9) with flanged edge out. Maximum diameter of this plug is located at outer edge of flange. Flange on cup-type plugs flares out with largest diameter at outer (sealing) edge. IMPORTANT: Pull plug into machined bore only with a properly designed tool. Under no circumstances is plug to be driven into bore with a tool that contacts flange. This method will damage sealing edge and result in leakage and/or plug blow-out. 2. Flanged (trailing) edge must be below chamfered edge of bore to effectively seal the plugged bore. If core plug replacing tool has a depth seating surface, DO NOT seat the tool against a non-machined (casting) surface. 5D-670 - ENGIN E TABLE of CONTENTS Page Page MerCruiser 60-thru-165 Drive Units 6A-1 Service Recommendations 6A-1 Gear Housing 6A-4 Water Pump • MerCruiser 1 -thru-165 and 888 6A-5 Oil and Water Adaptor - MerCruiser 60-80-90 6A-7 Bearing Carrier 6A-8 Drive Shaft and Shift Shaft 6A-11 Roller Bearings 6A-13 Shift Shaft 6A-14 Propeller Shaft - E-Z Shift Models 6A-15 Propeller Shaft - Non-E-Z Shift 6A-16 Gear Backlash Check 6A-17 Drive Shaft Housing 6A-19 Water Pocket Cover 6A-20 Water Pump - MerCruiser 60-80-90 6A-20 Reverse Lock Assembly - MerCruiser 60-80-90 6A-20 Universal Joint Shaft Gea^ and Bearings 6A-22 Cross Bearing Removal ard Reassembly 6A-22 Drive Gear and Bearings 6A-24 Upper Drive Shaft, Gear and Bearing 6A-26 Oil Seal Installation 6A-28 Shimming Drive Gear and Universal Joint Shaft 6A-29 Determining Upper Drive Shaft Preload 6A-30 Shimming Upper Drive Shaft Gear (Driven) 6A-30 Bell Housing 6A-34 Gimbal Ring 6A-38 Gimbal Housing Bearing 6A-42 Drive Shaft Housing and Bell Housing Variations 6A-47 MerCruiserIC (1.33:1 and 1.78:1) Drive Unit 6B-1 Gear Housing 6B-3 Propeller Shaft 6B-4 Drive Shaft 6B-7 Drive Shaft Housing 6B-11 Shifting and Reverse Lock Mechanism 6B-13 Universal Joint, Pinion Gear and Bearing Assemblies 6B-14 Shift Cable 6B-23 Shift Fork -1.33:1 Drives - Installation 6B-24 Reverse Lock Cam Assembly - 1.33:1 Drives 6B-24 Joining Gear and Drive Shaft Housing 6B-28 Cable End Guide Travel - Adjustment 6B-28 Tilt Stop Switch and Limit Switch 6B-29 Drive Conversion 6B-29 Drive Unit Lubrication 6B-32 Gimbal Ring 6B-32 Installing Hydraulic Hoses and Connector 6B-33 Gimbal Housing Bearing and Bearing Adaptors 6B-33 MerCruiserU Heavy-Duty Gear Housing 6B-34 Propeller Shaft 6B-34 Reassembling Needle Bearing and Tapered Bearing Cup in Gear Housing 6B-36 Propeller Shaft Assembly, Bearing Carrier Assembly and Gear Housing Cover - ReassemblyDrive Shaft MerCruiser 21 5Gear HousingDrive Shaft HousingGimbal HousingBell Housing InstallationTrim Switch and Trim Sender InstallationModel 215E Clutch and Throwout Bearing MerCruiser IIIService RecommendationsGear HousingDrive ShaftDrive Shaft HousingUniversal Joint Shaft Gear and BearingUniversal Joint Shaft ReassemblyChecking Gea' Backlash and Bearing PreloadFront Cover and Valve ReassemblyGimbal Housing and Gimbal RingBell HousingHydraulic Hoses and Connectors Direct Drive Transmission - Series 71 and 72DescriptionPrecautionsLubrication RecommendationsTroubleshooting ChanRemoval 6B-37 6B-38 6C-1 6C-1 6C-11 6C-16 6C-18 6C-18 6C-21 6D-1 6D-1 6D-2 6D-7 6D-9 6D-13 6D-13 6D-14 6D-14 6D-15 6D-17 6D-18 6E-1 6E-1 6E-1 6E-1 6E-3 6E-5 Disassembly Transmission Case Bushing Output Shaft Bushing Cleaning and Inspection Reassembly Shift Cable Adjustment Tools MerCruiser 225-255II-TR Drive Unit General Service Recommendations Gear Housing Drive Shaft Housing Gimbal Housing Trim Switch and Sender Installation/Adjustment MerCruiser 225-255III-TR Transmission Model ATools 6E-5 6E-10 6E-10 6E-11 6E-11 6E-18 6E-19 6F-1 6F-1 6F-2 6F-12 6F-17 6F-24 6G-1 6G-1 Lubrication Recommendations 6G-1 Troubleshooting Chart 6G-3 Transmission Removal/Disassembly/Repair 6G-4 Transmission Reassembly/Installation 6G-15 SECTION 6 - DRIVE SYSTEMS PART A - MERCRUISER 60-thru-165 and 888 INDEX Page Page MerCruiser 60-thru-165 Drive UnitsService RecommendationsGear Housing Types of Gear Housing AssembliesRemovalInstallationWater Pump - MerCruiser l-thru-165 and 888 Disassembly Reassembly Oil and Water Adaptor - MerCruiser 60-80-90DisassemblyReassembly Bearing Carrier Removal and Disassembly Reassembly and Installation Drive Shaft and Shift Shaft E-Z Shift Drive Sha-t Removal Non-E-Z Shift Drive Shaft Removal Drive Shaft Reassembly Roller Bearings Removal Installation Shift Shaft Removal and Reassembly Propeller Shaft - E-Z Shift ModelsRemoving Propeller Shaft from Gear HousingDisassemblyReassemblyReplacing Propeller Shaft and Drive Shaft Propeller Shaft - Non-E-Z ShiftRemoving Propeller Shaft from Gear HousingsDisassemblyReassemblyPinion Gear Shimming Gear Backlash Check Forward Gear Reverse Gear Drive Shaft Housing Removal Installation Top Cover Water Pocket Cover Removal Reassembly Water Pump - MerCruiser 60-80-90 Removal Reassembly Reverse Lock Assembly - MerCruiser 60-80-90RemovalReassemblyMerCruiser l-thru-165 and 888 Removal Reassembly Universal Joint Shaft Gear and Bearings Removal Reassembly Cross Bearing Removal and Reassembly 6A-1 6A-1 6A-4 6A-4 6A4 6A-4 6A-5 6A-5 6A-5 6A-7 6A-7 6A-7 6A-8 6A-8 6A-10 6A-11 6A-11 6A-12 6A-12 6A-13 6A-13 6A-13 6A-14 6A-14 6A-15 6A-15 6A-15 6A-15 6A-15 6A-16 6A-16 6A-16 6A-16 6A-17 6A-17 6A-17 6A-18 6A-19 6A-19 6A-19 6A-19 6A-20 6A-20 6A-20 6A-20 6A-20 6A-20 6A-20 6A-20 6A-21 6A-21 6A-21 6A-21 6A-22 6A-22 6A-22 6A-22 Drive Gear and Bearings 6A-24 Removal 6A-24 Reassemoly (MerCruiser 60-80-90) 6A-25 Reassenroly (MerCruiser I) 6A-25 Reassembly (MerCruiser IA-thru-165) 6A-26 Upper Drive Shaft, Gear and Bearing 6A-26 Removal (Early 60-thru-165) 6A-26 Removal (120-thru-888 with Pressed-On Gear) 6A-27 Reassembly (MerCruiser 60-80-90) 6A-27 Reassembly (MerCruiser l-thru-165) 6A-28 Reassembly (120-thru-888 with Pressed-On Gear) ... . 6A-28 Oil Seal Installation 6A-28 Shimmming Drive Gear and Universal Joint Shaf: 6A-29 Determining Upper Drive Shaft Preload 6A-30 Shimming Upper Drive Shaft Gear (Driven) 6A-30 MerCruiser 60-80-90 6A-31 MerCruiser l-thru-165-888 6A-31 Bell Housing 6A-34 Models 60-80-90 6A-34 Removal 6A-34 Reassembly 6A-34 Models l-thru-165-888 and E-Z Shift 6A-35 Removal 6A-35 Reassembly 6A-36 Gimbal Ring 6A-38 Models 60-80-90 6A-38 Removal 6A-38 Reassembly 6A-38 Models l-thru-165-888 and E-Z Shift 6A-40 Removal 6A^O Alternate Method of Removing Gimbal Ring 6A-40 Gimbal Ring Component Replacement 6A-41 Reassembly 6A-41 Gimbal Housing Bearing 6A-42 Models 60-80-90 6A-42 Removal 6A^42 Reassembly 6A-42 Model I 6A-43 Removal 6A-43 Reassembly 6A-43 Models IA-thru-165 and 888 6A-44 Removal (Sealed Bearing or Cartridge Bearing) . . . 6A-44 Reassembly (Sealed Bearing) 6A-45 Removal (Bearing Cartridge Assembly) 6A-45 Installation 6A-46 Drive Shaft Housing and Bell Housing Variations 6A-47 Drive Shaft Housing to Bell Housing Combinations . . . 6A-47 MerCruiser I Drive Shaft Housing to Bell Housing Gasket Combinations 6A-48 MerCruiser 1A-thru-165 and 888 Drive Shaft Housing to Bell Housing Gaskets 6A-49 Universal Joint Bellows 6A-50 Installation 6A-50 Exhaust Tube Replacement - MerCruiser 1-thru-IC E-Z Shift Gimbal Housings 6A-51 Exhaust Elbow and Shutter Replacement - MerCruiser 120-140-160-165-888 6A-51 MERCRUISER 60 - thru - 888 DRIVE UNITS SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS This section includes all of the important detailed information that pertains to servicing MerCruiser Stern Drive Units. Instructions are printed in the sequence which will be followed to assure best results when removing or replacing components. In order to assure correct and durable operation after assembly, it is important that all adjustments and torque value specifications, stated herein, be maintained to the highest degree of accuracy. Repair procedures for the different model units are noted. 1. Use special service tools, where specified, and use common tools of proper fit when removing and replacing parts. 2. Be sure to drain gear lube before separating drive unit housing for repairs. 3. When bearings are removed from housings or assemblies, keep them together with original shims for replacement in reassembly. 4. If a new part was added to the assembly, reshimming will be necessary to obtain proper bearing preloads or gear backlash. 5. Keep bearing assemblies and spacer components in removal order for reassembly. Bearing assemblies must be replaced as a unit. 6. When holding housings or parts in a vise -- or by other means — use blocks of wood and/or brass shields to prevent marring parts' surfaces. Pressed-on parts (bearings, gears, etc) require adapting appropriate mandrels and supports for the press used. Do not apply force on the bearing cages, mating surfaces or edges which will mar or fail if force is applied. 7. Clean parts with cleaning solvent before inspection and perform repairs on a clean bench area. Foreign matter can cause false shimming and/or premature bearing failure. 8. Lubricate parts with oil or grease to ease installation, retard rust, etc. Except when installing oil seals, Loctite Type "A " (C-92-32609-1) is required on seal outside diameter to prevent lubrication seepage and to hold seal securelv in position. 9. Housings, which require repair, should be installed on stern drive work stand with adaptors, as specified. MODELS This part includes the following models: MerCrui ser Model 60 MerCruiser I Type Model 140 (6-Cyl.) MerCruiser Model 80 MerCruiser I Type Model 140 (4-Cyl.) MerCruiser Model 90 MerCruiser I Type Model 150 MerCruiser I Type Model 110 MerCruiser I Type Model 160 MerCruiser I Type Model 120 MerCruiser I Type Model 165 MerCruiser I Type Model 888 107 1 R 1 DRIVE SYSTEMS - 6A-1 1 - Gear Housing Assembly 15 - "O " Ring, upper 23 - Oil Seal 2 - Pin, shift crank 16 - Gear, pinion 24 - Oil Seal 3 - Stud 17 - Nut 4 - Stud 18 - Shim 5 - Seal 19 - Tapered Roller Brg. Assy. 6 - Stud 20 - Gasket 7 - Stud 21 - "O" Ring 8 - Pin, dowel 22 - Water Pump Base Assy. 9 - Bearing, roller 10 - Sleeve, threaded (Early Models Only) 11 - Welch Plug (Early Models Only) 12 - Drive Shaft Assembly 13 - Pin, drive shaft 14 - Spring, compression 25 Dowel Pin 41 Sleeve, guide 26 Gasket, lower 42 Shaft, shift - lower 27 -Plate, face 43 -Clip, retaining 28 -Gasket, upper 44 -"0 " Ring 29 -Water Pump Body Assy. 45 -Bushing Assembly 30 Insert 46 -Oil Sec I 31 Oil Seal 47 -Washer, rubber 32 Seal, rubber 48 -Washer, shift shaft 33 -Impeller, water pump 49 -Screw 34 Pin, impel ler drive 50 -Washer 35 Screw 51 -Screw 36 Lockwasher 52 -Gasket 37 Nut 53 -Seal 38 Nut 54 -Washer, flush plug 39 Washer 55 -Plug, flush 40 -Ring, rubber Figure 1. Gear Housing Assembly Complete 6A-2 - DRIVE SYSTEMS 107 1 R 1 56 - Cotter Pin 57 - Sleeve, adjusting 58 - Retainer, spring 59 - Washer 60 - Spring, compression 61 - Spool 62 - Shaft, clutch actuating 63 - Crank, shift 64 - Shim 65 - Forward Gear Assembly 66 - Bearing, roller 67 - Tapered Roller Brg. Assy 68 - Clutch, sliding 69 - Pin, cross 70 - Spring, retainer 71 - Shaft, propeller 72 - Reverse Gear Assembly 73 - Ring, thrust 74 - Bearing, ball 75 Shim 76 -"0 " Ring 77 -Beoring Carrier Assembly 78 -Bearing, roller 79 -Oil Seal 80 -Key, locating 81 -Washer 82 -Cover, gear housing 83 -Washer, thrust 84 -Thrust Hub & Washer Assy 85 -Washer, cupped 86 -Washer, splined 87 -Tab Washer 88 -Nut, propeller 89 -Trim Tab Assembly 90 Screw 91 -Screw 92 • Nut (Continued) Figure 1. Gear Housing Assembly Complete 107 1 R 1 DRIVE SYSTEMS - 6A-3 1 GEAR HOUSING TYPES OF GEAR HOUSING ASSEMBLIES MerCru iser Model Gea GeaGea r rr Housin HousinHousin g gg Typ TypTyp e ee I' Straight Cut Bevel Gear 1*-1 A-l B-l C-60-80-90 Spiral Cut Bevel Gear 1 A-IB-1C-120Spiral Cut Bevel Gear 140-160-165-888 with E-Z Shift •* * Serial Ao. 1684187 andgear housing outer diameter; above have 4-3/4" (121mm) ter. ** Serial No. 1776349 andgear housing. REMOVAL below have 4%" (108mm) Serial No. 1684188 and gear housing outer diame above have an E-Z Shift 1. Drain Super-Duty Gear Lubricant (C-92-52650) from gear housing by removing filler hole screw and vent screw (Figure 1) or oil vent screw from drive shaft housing for drives with interconnected oil chambers. Figure 1. Draining Lubricant from Gear Housing 2. Place a block of wood between propeller and anti- cavitation plate to prevent propeller from turning while removing propeller nut. 3. Remove propeller by bending tabs on tab washer and removing propeller nut (right hand thread), tab washer, cupped thrust washer, propeller and thrust hub and washer assembly. 4. Remove three 5/8 " hexagon head lock nuts which hold gear housing assembly to drive shaft housing (leading edge). 5. Remove two 5/8 " hexagon head lock nuts which are located in center bottom side of anti-cavitation plate. 6. Remove trim tab under trailing edge of anti-cavitatioplate by removing plastic plug and loosening socket head screw from rear top of drive shaft housing. 7. Remove alien head screw from inside trim tab cavity. (Models 60-80-90 have 9/16 " nut.) 8. Separate gear housing from drive shaft housing and place in vise. 9. At this time, backlash between gears should be checked for future reference. Refer to "Checking Reverse Gear Backlash", following. INSTALLATION 1. If water inlet tube was pulled out when gear housing was removed, coat tube upper end with New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588) so that it will slip easily into rubber seal in drive shaft housing. 2. Place light coat of New Multipurpose Lubricant on bottom end of water tube. 3. Apply heavy coat of New Multipurpose Lubricant on drive shaft splines. 4. Insert socket head trim tab screw in place on top of gear housing. 5. Check that shift control lever and lower unit are in forward gear before installing gear housing. Hold in forward gear by applying slight pressure to propeller shaft in counterclockwise direction. 6. Insert drive shaft into drive shaft housing, aligning water tube with water tube guide and drive shaft splines with upper drive shaft, then sliding into place while joining housings. NOTE: Be careful that water inlet tube enters plastic water tube guide in water pump body recess and that rubber seal is in water pump cover. Oil passage "O" ring must be in position on gear housing with interconnected oil chambers. 7. Rotate propeller shaft to help drive shaft splines enter upper drive shaft splines. Upper and lower shift shaft splines also must be aligned. 8. With 2 housings joined, install and tighten elastic stop nuts and socket head screw. 9. Install trim tab and torque socket head screw to 180 in. lbs. (31.95kg/cm) thru hole in drive shaft housing, then replace plastic plug. NOTE: Refer to trim tab adjustment in Section 1, "General Information". 6A-4 -DRIVE SYSTEMS 107 1R1 WATER PUMP - MERCRUISER l-thru-165 and 888 DISASSEMBLY 1. Set gear housing in vise in upright position with skegheld between blocks o f w o o d 2. Remove "0 " ring from upper end of drive shaft. 3. Remove centrifugal slinger from drive shaft. 4. Remove water pump body assembly by removing nuts and lockwashers, plus one cap screw and lockwasher. 5. Remove water pump body assembly, impeller, impellerdrive pin, gaskets and face plate. 6. Check impeller and water pump insert closely for wear or damage. 7. Remove flushing screw, seal and gasket to allow water pump base assembly to be lifted out. NOTE: Flushing screw is not incorporated, in later gear housings, and water pump base with flushing screw hole cannot be used on these later housings. 8. Remove "0 " ring and oil seal from base plate assembly. (Figure 1) Water . D r i v e Stainless Face Vent Hole ^—Flushing ° 01785 Figure 1. Water Pump Assembly REASSEMBLY 1. Position water pump base assembly and gasket in gear 4- Place drive pin on drive shaft, holding in position housing. with dab of New Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). 2. Install water pump base-to-face-plate gasket and re-5. Check condition of impeller closely and set in place place stainless face plate. (Figure 1) over drive shaft. 3. If water pump impeller drive pin and impeller hub have 6. Insert stainless water pump cartridge in water pump worn excessively on drive shaft because of abrasion and place water pump body-to-face-plate gasket on caused by silt and sand, a new impeller drive pin water pump body. (Figure 1) should be bonded to replacement drive shaft with Type 7. Slide water pump body assembly over drive shaft and "AV " Loctite (C-92-58295A1). Do not attempt to re-impeller. (Figure 1) use a drive shaft that has worn down at this location. To install and bond replacement drive pin and drive shaft with Loctite, proceed as follows (if this condition does not exist, move on to Step 4, following): a. Place gear housing in vise so that drive shaft is horizontal. b. Using FRESH solvent (lacquer thinner is excellent) and a clean cloth, clean drive shaft from face plate up to end of spline. Also clean impeller insert and drive pin. Do not allow solvent to contact pump base oil seal. Wipe all cleaned surfaces dry. c. Rotate drive shaft so that the flat is up, Smear "AV " Loctite evenly on shaft section on which impeller will ride. With flat on shaft up, add more "AV " Loctite onto the flat. d. Roll drive pin in this puddle on the flat and leave it centered in flat. e. Slip impeller onto shaft with keyway up so that it 8. Turn drive shaft clockwise and press water pump body will align with drive pin. Slowly push impeller down assembly into place, at the same time seating impeller. to the face plate. Be sure that impeller drive pin is in position in drive f. Rotate impeller back-and- forth several times, as far pin groove of impeller. as drive pin will allow, to thoroughly wet impeller 9. Replace lockwashers and tighten nuts and cap screw. insert with Loctite. g. Wipe off any excess Loctite which appears above NOTE: Plastic water pump nuts and screws require impeller. specific torque values to prevent distortion and crack- h. Proceed, beginning with Step 6, following. ing of pump. (Figure 2) Figure 2. Water Pump Assembly Installed 1071R 1 drive systems - 6a-5 1 OIL and WATER ADAPTOR - MERCRUISER 60-80-90 DISASSEMBLY 1. Set gear housing in vise in upright position with skeg 4. Remove "0 " rings from oil and water adaptor assembly, held between blocks of wood. 2. Remove plastic guide tube. 3. Remove oil and water adaptor assembly by removing nuts. NOTE: See '''Water Pump Replacement", preceding. REASSEMBLY 1. Place 2 "0 " rings, nylon washer, rubber bushing and gasket on oil and water adaptor. 2. Install oil and water adaptor in gear housing. 3. Place 3 nuts on oil and water adaptor studs and torque nuts to 144 in. lbs. (25.56kg/cm). 4. Place plastic water tube guide in watercess'. (Figure 3) Figure 3. Water Tube Guide in Place - MerCruiser 60-80-90 adaptor re107 1 R 1 DRIVE SYSTEMS - 6A-7 1 BEARINGREMOVAL and 1. Bend lock tab of washer to unlock cover (later models only; and remove gear housing cover and tab washer with Gear Housing Cover Tool (C-91-53126 "Figure 4] or C-91-61069 [^Figure 5^]). Place tool over end of propeller shaft and set tool into cover, turning counterclockwise (right hand thread) to loosen. (Figure 4) If tight, strike handle of tool with mallet to loosen. NOTE: E-Z Shift propeller shaft cannot be removed at this time. Pinion gear and drive shaft must be removed before propeller shaft and forward gear can be removed. Figure 4. Removing Gear Housing Cover Figure 5. Removing Gear Housing Cover with Tool C-91-61069 2. The bearing carrier of E-Z Shift gear housing must be removed by catching ring of bearing carrier with Slide Hammer Puller (C-91-34569Al) with Jaws (C-91-34570) (Figure 6) or Puller (C-91-27780) and tapping outward with a mallet. Bearing carrier assembly of gear housing without E-Z Shift can be removed while removing propeller shaft. Place propeller shaft in vise between jaw protectors. Shaft assembly then can be removed by tapping lightly and evenly on skeg of gear housing with a mallet. Re CARRIER DISASSEMBLY Figure 6. Removing Bearing Carrier move propeller shaft and key from keyway in bottom of bearing carrier. 3. Remove shims which may adhere to bearing carrier or remain in gear housing. 4. Remove reverse gear from bearing carrier with tools listed in Step No. 2 immediately preceding. (Figure 7) Figure 7. Removing Reverse Gear from Bearing Carrier 5. Remove "0 " ring from carrier. 6. Press roller bearing and seals from carrier assembly with Drive Rod (C-91-37323) used in conjunction with an arbor press and Adaptor (C-91-37263). (Figure 8) (For "60 " model, use Drive Head C-91-37311.) NOTE: Bearing Removal and Installation Set (C-9131229Al) with Drive Head (C-91-37263) also may be used to pull bearing and oil seals. (Figure 9) Figure 8. Pressing Roller Bearings from Carrier 6 A-8 -DRIVE SYSTEMS 1071 R1 Figure 9. Pulling Roller Bearing and Oil Seals from Carrier from Reverse Gear Assembly DRI VE SYSTEMS - 6A-9 1071R1 REASSEMBLY and 1. Press roller bearing into bearing carrier. (Figure 11) Driver Head: C-91-37311* with Driver Rod C-9 1-37323 - MerCruiser 60 Needle Bearing Adaptor: C-9 1-37363 w/Driver Rod C-91-37 3 23 - MerCrui ser 80-90 Needle Bearing Driver: C-91-31109 - MerCruiser I Short End IA-IB-IC, E-Z Shift, 120 and 160-165-888 (Fig. 11) * NOTE: Use Driver Head (C-91-37311) with Driver Rod (C-91-37323) to install MerCruiser 60 oil seals (first seal is spring-loaded). 2. Install oil seals with Loctite Type "A " (C-92-32609) on outside diameter. Press first oil seal (lip in toward housing) with Oil Seal Driver (C-91-31108), seating on shoulder with deep end. (Figure 12) Use opposite end of tool to seat second seal with lip outward. (Figure 13> 3. Press large ball bearing with ball bearing thrust washer onto reverse gear. (.Figure 14) 0 3481 Figure 11. Figure 12. Carrier Bearing Carrier Seal Installation Installation (Lip Downward) 4. Press reverse gear and ball bearing assembly into bearing carrier. Replace large "0 " ring on outside diameter of bearing carrier. 5. Install shims in gear housing. NOTE: On final installation of bearing carrier (after forward and reverse gear backlash has been corrected) apply Perfect Seal (C-92-34227) liberally to outer diameters of carrier spool. Surfaces must be clean and oil-free. DO NOT allow sealer to enter ball bearing or reverse gear. Also apply sealer to threads liberally in gear housing before installing retainer. 6A-10 - drive systems INSTALLATION 03478 Figure 13. Carrier Seal Installation Figure 14. Reassembling Reverse Gear (Lip Upward) 6. Push bearing carrier into gear housing with Sleeve (C-91-32699) on propeller shaft until it seats against ball bearing thrust ring. (Figure 15) NOTE: Sleeve is not required for tapered propeller shafts. 7. Place key in key way in bearing carrier and bottom ol gear housing. 8. Coat threads of gear housing liberally with Perfect Seal (C-92-34227) to facilitate easy future removal of gear housing cover. 9. Place gear housing cover washer on bearing carrier shoulder. Later gear housings have tab washer for locking housing cover. 10. Thread gear housing cover onto gear housing and lighten in clockwise direction with Gear Housing Cover Tool (C-92-53126 or C-91-61009). Adaptor (C-91-59553) is placed on Cover Tool (C-91-53126) for applying proper torque to gear case cover nut when tightening cover nut. (Sec Section 8 "Specifications".) 11. Check forward and reverse gear backlash. Refer to "Cheeks", following. 12. After Step 11 is completed, refer to "NOTE", preceding Step 6, and repeat Steps 6-7-8-9 and 10. Figure 15. Beoring Carrier Installation 107 1R1 DRIVE SHAFT and SHIFT SHAFT E-Z SHIFT DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL 1. Place gear housing in vise (between blocks of soft wood) with propeller shaft facing up. 2. With a 7/8 " open endwrench on pinion gear nut(Figure 1) or using Tool C-91-61067A1 (Figure 2), turn drive shaft counterclockwise with Drive Shaft torquing Tool (C-91-34377 or C-91-5S775 for later models). (Figure 1) Figure 1. Loosening Pinion Gear Nut 06916 Figure 2. Loosening Pinion Gear Nut with Tool C-91-61067A1 3. With pinion gear nut removed, drive shaft assembly can be removed from gear housing. (Figure 3) 4. With drive shaft removed, propeller shaft, pinion gear and forward gear assembly can be removed from gear housing. When removing propeller shaft assembly, it is necessary to tilt shaft to left to disengage shift crank from spool. 5. Remove tapered roller bearing from drive shaft. 6. Remove drive shaft and forward gear tapered bearing cups from gear housing with Slide Hammer Puller (C-9134569A1). NOTE: On some gear housings, it may be necessary to remove drive shaft tapered roller bearing cup, along with the lubricant recirculating device. See Step 8, following. 7. Look for shims under bearing cup. 8. If lubricant recirculating device is installed, place Sleeve Tool (C-91-39281) into grooves of sleeve (left hand thread) and thread end of Slide Hammer Puller (C-91-34569A1) into sleeve tool to remove it. Figure 3. Removing Drive Shaft from Gear Housing NOTE: Recirculating device is not required on gear housings with interconnected oil chambers. 9. Remove shift shaft bushing with Bushing Tool (C-9131107) (Figure 4) and pull shift shaft out of gear housing. Shift crank then can be removed from housing. 107 1 R 1 DRIVE SYSTEMS - 6A-1 1 NO N - E-Z SHIFT DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL 1. Place drive shaft in vise as close to gear housing as possible. 2. Remove nut (right hand thread) from drive shaft pinion gear with a thin box-end wrench. 3. Drive shaft can be lifted from gear housing. 4. On MerCruiser "60 " and later MerCruiser 1 models, roller bearing is installed over lower end of drive shaft and is pressed against machined shoulder on drive shaft, therefore, remove by pressing from drive shaft. On MerCruiser "80-90", remove tapered roller bearing from drive shaft by placing drive shaft in vise and removing l% " nut (left hand thread) with suitable wrench. Remove snap ring on early MerCruiser I models. Mer- Cruiser IA-IB-IC models have nut (right hand thread). 5. Remove drive shaft tapered bearing cup from gear housing with Slide Puller (C-91-34569A1). (Figure 4) 6. Remove forward gear and bearing assembly from gear housing. Remove gear from bearing with Universal Puller Plate (C-91-37241). 7. Remove forward gear housing cup from gear housing with Slide Hammer Puller (C-91-34569A1).' 8. Remove shims which may adhere to bearing cup or remain in gear housing. DRIVE SHAFT 1. Replace shims which were removed originally from under drive shaft bearing cup. (Some drive shafts have ball bearing installed on drive shaft. Install shims when installing drive shaft, _Step 4A, following^].) Place bearing cup on proper driver tool and press cup into housing. (Figure 5) Driver Tool: C-91-38918 - MerCruiser 60-80-90 C-9 1-34379 - MerCruiser 1-thru-165 2. Replace forward bearing cup with shims originally removed from gear housing. Place bearing cup on proper Driver Cup Tool (use following), and press or drive into housing, using Driver Rod (C-91-37323) with adaptor (C-91-37263) (Figure 6) or old propeller shaft. 03484 03359 Figure 6. Figure 7. Forward Bearing Installing Tapered Cup Installation Roller Bearing on Drive Shaft 6A- 1 2 - DRIVE SYSTEMS 9. To remove and replace drive shaft roller bearing, refer to roller bearing replacement, following. Figure 5. Drive Shaft Bearing Cup Installation Figure 4. Removing Drive Shaft Tapered Bearing Cup REASSEMBLY Driver Cup: C-9 1-3136 1 - MerCrui ser 60 C-9 1-3 1106 - MerCruiser 80-90 and I C-9 1-36577 - MerCruiser I A-lB-lC-thru-165-888 3. Assemble forward gear and bearing, then place into bearing cup in gear housing. 4. Install drive shaft bearing and place drive shaft into gear housing. a. MerCruiser I (Early) - Place ball bearing on drive shaft and install snap ring. b. MerCruiser 80, 90 and I - Place tapered roller bearing on drive shaft and install lock nut (left hand thread) with Loctite (C-92-32609), torquing to 100 ft. lbs. (13.8m drive systems - 6a-15 107 1r 1 4. Place a drop of Grade "A" Loctite (C-92-32609) on gear nut with 7/8" wrench or Tool C-91-61057A1. See pinion gear nut threads and install nut. Torque to 80 ft. "Drive Shaft Reassembly", preceding. lbs. (llmkg) with Drive Shaft Torquing Tool (C-9134337 or C-91-56775 for later models) holding pinion 5. Refer to replacing bearing carrier preceding. PROPELLER SHAFT - NON-E-Z SHIFT REMOVING PROPELLER SHAFT from GEAR HOUSINGS The propeller shaft is removed with the bearing carrier, preceding. DISASSEMBLY 1. Use screwdriver to detach retaining ring from sliding clutch. Do not over-stretch so that ring will not lose Pin ou t of slidinS clutch" its shape and tension. 3" S,ldlng clutch now 15 free to be removed from propeller 2. Remove sliding clutch from propeller shaft by pressing f haft; Cross pin will slide and spring will drop free .. . i-i ii i i from inside of propeller shaft, against cam follower and, with small punch, push cross REASSEMBLY 1. Install cam follower spring and cam follower slide in-4. Place cross pin thru sliding clutch, propeller shaft and side hollow end of propeller shaft so that holes in cam slide. follower slide match hole in propeller shaft. 5. Install cross pin retaining spring around sliding clutch. Do not over-stretch spring when installing. NOTE: On MerCruiser I-IA-IB-IC, place 3 washers, 6. Place propeller shaft assembly into forward gear as- new spring, cross pin slide and follower inside pro sembly in gear housing. peller shaft. Measure distance from top of cam follower 7. Refer to replacing bearing carrier, preceding. to end of propeller shaft. Distance must be 25/64" (10mm), plus-or-minus 1/64" (.4mm). If measurement taken is not within tolerance, add or subtract washers under follower spring as required. Each washer is 1/32" (.8mm) thick. (Figure 3) Figure 3. Washer Placement 2. Place sliding clutch (Figure 4) onto propeller shaft and install cam follower in end of propeller shaft. NOTE: If clutch teeth are copper-coated, install coating toward forward gear. 3. Compress spring inside propeller shaft by pressing on cam follower until holes in sliding clutch, propeller shaft and cross pin slide all line up. 01916 Figure 4. Installing Sliding Clutch - MerCruiser "60 " 6A-16 - DRIVE SYSTEMS 473R2 PINION GEAR SHIMMING 1. Install pinion gear on drive shaft in gear housing. 2. Position shimming tool in gear housing. 3. Check for .025" (.635mm) between gear and tool while applying inward pressure on drive shaft to seat its roller bearing. (Figure 5) Figure 5. Shimming Procedure 4. If clearance is incorrect, remove pinion gear and drive shaft. Remove bearing cup from housing and add or subtract shims to obtain .025";i.e., if over .015", remove shims from under bearing cup, if under .025", add shims under bearing cup. 5. If clearance is correct, reassemble gear housing. NOTES: 1-The Pinion Gear Shimming Tool for Mer- Cruiser 90-120-140-160-165-888 models accurately positions pinion gear in gear housing and eliminates misalignment of gear mesh (not clearance) between pinion gear and forward and reverse gears. Select from the following: C-9 1-56050 Pinion Shimming Tool - 90 Model C-9 1-56048 Pinion Shimming Tool-120-140-160165- 888 VOTES: 2. Shimming tool for MerCr. 120-1 W-l60-165 model gear housings may be used in earlier gear housings which have a late pinion gear (B-43-55812) installed. 3. MerCr. 90 shimming tool may be used in MerCr. 80 gear housings which have pinion gear B-43-55425 installed. Late pinion gears have a ground, flat surface on tips of gear teeth. GEAR BACKLASH CHECK FORWARD GEAR NOTE: Gear housing must be assembled to check gear backlash. It is not necessary to have water pump installed. 1. Turn drive shaft clockwise several turns to align rollers in bearings. Fasten dial indicator to gear housing and Backlash Indicator Rod (C-91-53459) lo drive shaft. (Figure 6) m 1071 R1 2. Shifto gear housing t? into full forward. Turn drive shaft clockwise to ensure full engagement of sliding clutch. 3. Watch shift shaft movement. Slowly turn propeller shaft clockwise until shift shaft movement stops. Apply pressure on shift shaft toward forward gear. 4. Position dial indicator pointer to line marked "I " on backlash indicator rod. Hold downward pressure on drive shaft. Lightly turn shaft and pinion gear assembly backand- forth. DO NOT turn propeller shaft. Dial indicator registers amount of backlash. (Figure 6) (See following chart for specifications.) 5. If backlash is less than required, remove shims from forward gear bearing race. If backlash is more than required, add shims to forward gear bearing race. NOTE: Both forward and reverse gear backlash should be checked at one time so that changing of shims in either gear may be completed in one take-down procedure. ^ Figure 6. Checking Gear Backlash DRIVE SYSTEMS - 6A-17 GEAR BACKLASH Model MerCruiser 60-80- 90 MerCruiser l-A-B-C-120-140-160165, Serial No. 3443920 and Below MerCruiser 888 and 120-140-165, Serial No. 3469428 and Up Forward Gear .006" to .008" .006" to .008" .010" to .012" Reverse Gear .006" to .008" .015" to .020" .020" to .025" REVERSE NOTE: Gear housing must be assembled to check gear backlash. It is not necessary to have water pump installed. 1. Turn drive shaft clockwise several turns to align rollers in bearings. Fasten dial indicator to gear housing and Backlash Indicator Rod (C-91-53459) to drive shaft. (Figure 6) 2. Shift gear housing into full reverse. Turn drive shaft clockwise to ensure full engagement of sliding clutch. NOTE: On models MerCruiser I and IA-IB-IC without E-Z shift, disregard Step 3 and complete the following: Shift into full reverse and turn propeller shaft until sliding clutch dog engages with reverse gear clutch dog. Now shift to neutral gear and turn propeller shaft !4" in same direction. Apply pressure on shift shaft toward reverse gear. Proceed with Step 4. GEAR 3. Watch shift shaft movement. Slowly turn propeller shaft counterclockwise until shift shaft movement stops. Apply pressure on shift shaft toward reverse gear. 4. Position dial indicator pointer to line marked "I " on backlash indicator rod. Hold downward pressure on drive shaft. Lightly turn drive shaft and pinion gear assembly back-and-forth. DO NOT turn propeller shaft. Dial indicator registers amount of backlash. (Figure 6) (See preceding chart for specifications.) 5. If backlash is less than required, add shims between reverse gear thrust washer and gear housing. If backlash is more than required, remove shims. 6A-18 - DRIVE SYSTEMS DRIVE SHAFT HOUSING REMOVAL 1. Shift unit into forward gear. 2. Remove following, if so equipped. a. Remove elastic stop nuts and washers from tilt adjustment or anchor studs and aft anchor pin to remove hvdraulic cylinders and tilt adjustment stud. b. Remove bolt, which secures dyna shocks to drive shaft housing (Figure 1) and place reverse lock hook release lever in "Release " position. 3. Remove elastic stop nuts (or cap screws) v.hich secure drive shaft housing to bell housing. 4. Remove drive shaft housing by pulling straight back. (Figure 2) Figure 1. Removing Dyna Shocks - MerCruiser I INSTALLATION NOTE: Check engine and gimbal bearing and gaskets before installing drive unit. For installation of drive unit to bell housing, reverseremoval procedure. Figure 2. Removing Drive Shaft Housing - MerCruiser 60-80-90 alignment the TOP COVER 1. Remove 4 screws which hold top cover assembly to drive shaft housing. 2. Remove top cover assembly by lifting and twisting cover slightly. (Figure 3) 3. Install top cover assembly by reversing removal procedure, above. NOTE: Late MerCruiser 120-thru-165 and 888 have a Belleville washer under bearing cup for upper shaft preload. Use New Multipurpose Lubricant to hold washer in place when reinstalling cover. If washer is out of position, it will cause excessive bearing preload. Figure 3. Removing Top Cover 107 1r 1 DRIVE SYSTEMS - 6A-19 WATER POCKET COVER REMOVAL 1. Remove screws from water pocket and cover inside and water tube. lower end of drive shaft housing and pull out cover 2. Remove water tube, bushing and nylon washer. REASSEMBLY 1. Place bushing and nvlon washer into water pocket mn-rr u r • i • > /i- i • v D ' NOTE: MerCruiser 60 water tube is 6 (lo.24cmJ in n . , ' .. . _ , „ , , . length and 80-90 water tube is 5" (12.7cm) in length. I. Apply a thin coating ot Dealer 1L-92-33/49) on bushing and water tube and install in water pocket cover. Fol- 3. Place gasket on water pocket cover and install cover. low directions in sealer kit. 4. Torque screws to 12 ft. lbs. (1.5mkg). WATER PUMP - MERCRUISER 60-80-90 REMOVAL 1. Remove top cover assembly, gasket, face plate, im- "0 " rings from water inlet and outlet orifices in peller, drive pin and water pump cartridge insert. housing. 2. Remove screws which hold water pump bodv. Remove 3. Remove "0 " ring and press 2 seals and bearing cup from body with Oil Seal and Bearing Tool (C-91-31108). REASSEMBLY 1. Install seals — one with lip up, the other with lip 4. Install water pump body assembly in drive shaft housing down — in water pump body assembly. and torque screws to 5-8 in. lbs. (.9-1,4rg/cm). 2. Install original shims and bearing cup in pump body. 5. Using Anti-Corrosion Grease (C-92-45134), place wate Check drive shaft preload (following under reassembly), pump insert into water pump body. if pump body is replaced. 6. Place impeller drive pin on impeller shaft, holding 3. Place "0 " rings on drive shaft housing water inlet and pin in position with New Multipurpose Lubricant (Coutlet orifices and place rubber "0 " ring on water 92-49588). pump body assembly. 7. Install impeller over drive pin and place gasket, face NOTE: Late model units require a small gasket in-plate and gasket over top of water pump assembly. stalled in water pump housing to seal around locating 8. Install top cover and torque to 20 ft. lbs. (2.8mkg). tab on insert. REVERSE LOCK ASSEMBLY MERCRUISER 60-80-90 REMOVAL 1. Qn early MerCruiser 60's, release reverse lock spring and drive out pin. (Figure 4) On later 60 drives and all 80's, drive out reverse lock pin and remove reverse lock assembly. 2. Remove shift shaft nut and pull shift shaft. Figure 4. Releasing Reverse Lock Spring 107 1 R 1 6A-20 - DRIVE SYSTEMS REASSEMBLY 1. Install reverse lock assembly, springs and shift shaft. 4. Install water shutter into exhaust outlet. (Figures 5 2. Install reverse lock pin and engage springs. and 6) 3. Install nut on shift shaft. MERCRUISER l-thru-165 and 888 REMOVAL NOTE: Power Trim models do not require reverse lock 2. Remove reverse lock pivoting screw. assembly. 3. Remove cotter pin and washer from upper shift shaft, 1. Remove reverse lock stop(Figure 7) screw, spring and washer. 4. then remove shift shaft. Remove reverse lock assembly. REASSEMBLY 1. Install reverse lock assembly and upper shift shaft. Place thin coat of New Multipurpose Lubricant (C92- 49588) on cam and nylon roller. Figure 5. Reverse Lock and Water Shutter Locations - MerCr. 60 t 03510 Figure 6. Reverse Lock and Water Shutter Locations - MerCr. 80-90 2. Install reverse lock pivot screw and nut and tighten securely. 3. Install washer and cotter pin on upper shift shaft. 4. Install reverse lock stop screw, spring and washer. Washer and spring are under reverse lock assembly. (Figure 7) Figure 7. Removing Reverse Lock Stop Screw 107 1R1 DRVE SYSTEMS - 6A-21 UNIVERSAL JOINT SHAFT GEAR and BEARINGS REMOVAL 1. Remove threaded cover with spanner wrench (right hand thread) selected from the following chart: (Figure 2) — Spanner Wrench MerCruiser 60-80-90 -C-91-38378 MerCruiser I -C-91-32822 MerCr. 1A-IB-IC, E-Z Shift, 120-140-160-165-888 C-91-36235 2. Remove universal joint and drive shaftpulling straight out. 3. Check for shims which may adhere to bearing cartridge and/or to shoulder in drive shaft housing. Figure 1. Removing Threaded Cover REASSEMBLY 1. Slide drive gear, universal joint assembly, shims and "0 " ring into drive shaft housing. On MerCruiser IC and 160-165 drives only, to align universal joint shaft gear with drive shaft gear, remove cover assembly as explained, following. (Figure 1 and 2) 2. Install stainless steel washer and threaded cover and torque to: MerCr. 60-80-90 : 4pprox. 150 ft. lbs. (20.7mkg) MerCr. l-thru-165: Approx. 200 ft. lbs. (27.6mkg) 3. Install top cover in MerCruiser IC 160-165 drive shaft housing, preceding. CROSS BEARING REMOVAL and REASSEMBLY 1. Remove threaded cover with Spanner Wrench from fol2. Position Universal Joint Tool w ith Adaptor (C-91-38756; lowing chart. on cross bearing and tighten pressure screw until lock ring can be removed. (Figure 3) Universal joint or Spanner Wrench tool mav be damaged if tool is not properly centered. MerCruiser 60-80-90 -C-91-38378 MerCruiser 1 -C-91-32822 MerCr. 1A-IB-IC, E-Z -C-91-36235 3. Reverse tool and press other bearing until lock ring Shift, 120-140-160-165-888 can be removed. assembly by 01803 6A-22 - DRIVE SYSTEMS 107 1 R 1 neceswith a to start the presspreceding procedure. lubric- neceswith a to start the presspreceding procedure. lubric- L Continue to press until opposite bearing is free, then repeat this procedure on other bearings. 5. In the case of a "stubborn" bearing, it may besary to give the pressure screw a sharp taphammer, while it is under pressure, ing operation. 6. To reassemble, reverse order of NOTE: Refer to "Lubrication" Section 1C for ation. Figure 3. Removing Lock Ring DRIVE SYSTEMS - 6A-23 107 1r 1 DRIVE GEAR and BEARINGS REMOVAL NOTE: Tapered roller bearing assemblies and drive and pinion gear are matched sets. Keep bearing assembly in original order to retain bearing preload. (Figures 4 and 5) Figure 4. Bearing Set - "U " Joint - MerCruiser I (Early) 1. Clamp metal bar in vise and place universal joint on bar. (Figure 6) 2. Remove drive nut and washer (right hand thread). 3. Remove drive gear and bearing assemblies or cartridge from shaft. On MerCruiser I, press out tapered roller bearings by supporting outside of bearing cartridge. (Figure 7) 4. Remove spacer, tapered roller bearing and oil seal carrier from shaft. Figure 7. Pressing Bearing from Gear - MerCr. l-thru-165 CAUTION: Drive gear and pinion gear are a matched set. If replacement is required, they must be replaced as a set. Tapered roller bearings, matching cups and spacers, which are assembled in drive gear bearing cartridge, must be replaced in sets so that bearings will have correct amount ol preload when assembled. 6A-24 - DRIVE SYSTEMS 107 1 R 1 REASSEMBLY (MERCRUISER 60-80-90) 1. Place Loctite (C-92-32609) on outer diameter of carrier oil seal, then press it into seal carrier with lip toward tapered roller bearing. 2. Place bearings and spacer on drive gear ir following order: Tapered bearing (with large diameter toward gear), tapered bearing cup, cone spacer, bearing cup (with large diameter up) and tapered bearing in cup. (Figure 8) Figure 8. Drive Gear Components 3. Place bearing cup into oil seal carrier. NOTE: This is normally a hand fit but, if tight, bearing cup can be pressed into oil seal carrier. 4. Clamp metal bar in vise and place universal joint on bar. 5. Place steel thrust washer and "0 " ring on universal joint shaft. REASSEMBLY 1. Place Loctite (C-92-32609) on outside diameter of carrier oil seal, then press it into seal carrier with lip toward tapered roller bearing. 2. Install original shims, if any, in bearing cartridge. 3. Place bearings and spacers on bearing cartridge in following order: Tapered roller bearing with large diameter toward shoulder in bearing cartridge, tapered bearing cup over roller, cone spacer, large spacer, bearing cup with large diameter up and tapered roller bearing in cup. 4. Press bearings and spacers into cartridge until bearing bottoms on shims in bearing cartridge. (Figure 10) 5. Outer bearing cup should extend .002"-.004" (.051.1mm) above edge of cartridge. Add or remove shims under bottom bearing cup to achieve this dimension. (Figure 11) 5. Clamp metal bar in vise and place universal joint on bar. 7. Place oil seal carrier assembly on universal joint shaft with lips facing up. 8. Place tapered roller bearing, spacer ar.d complete bearing cartridge assembly on universal joint shaft. 9. Place drive gear and washer (bowed side away from gear) on universal joint shaft and torque nut to 70-80 ft. lbs. (9.66-11.04mkg). (Figure 12) 6. Place oil seal carrier assembly on universal joint shaft with lips facing up. NOTE: Place Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588) on oil seal lips before placing assembly on shaft. 7. Place gear and bearing assembly on universal joint shaft. 8. Place drive gear and washer (bowed side away from gear) on universal joint shaft and torque nut to 50 ft. lbs. (6.913mkg). (Figure 9) (MERCRUISER I) Figure 10. Pressing Bearings, Cup and Spacer 1071R1 drive systev.s -6a-2s Figure 11. Checking Outer Bearing Cup in Retainer REASSEMBLY (MERCRUISER IA-thru-165) 1. Place Loctite (C-92-32609) on outside diameter of car-oil seal carrier with "0 " ring toward "L " washer, rier oil seal, then press it into seal carrier with lip tapered roller bearing with large diameter toward oil toward tapered roller bearing. seal carrier, tapered bearing cup over roller, cone 2. Clamp metal bar in vise and place universal joint on spacer, large spacer, bearing cup with small diameter bar. toward spacer and tapered roller bearing in cup. 3. Assemble parts on universal joint shaft in the follow-4. Place drive gear and washer (bowed side away from ing order: Threaded cover, stainless steel washer, gear) on universal joint shaft and torque nut to 70-80 "L " washer with flat surface toward universal joint, ft. lbs. (9.66-11.04mkg). UPPER DRIVE SHAFT, GEAR and BEARING REMOVAL (Early 60-thru-165) 3. Place upper drive shaft assembly in powerhead stand, following: Powerhead Stand MerCruiser 60-80-90 -C-91-2582IAi MerCr. l-thru-165 -C-91-30591A1 NOTE: Stand is not required for late 120-thru 165. Figure 1. Removing Impeller Shaft from 60-80-90 Models 1. Remove universal joint, preceding. Figure 2. Pressing Roller Bearing from Upper Drive 2. Lift drive shaft from drive shaft housing. Shaft Assembly on 60-80-90 Models 6A-26 - DRIVE SYSTEMS 107 1 R 1 4. On 60-80 and 90 models, remove impeller shaft (left assembly On l-thru-165. press roller bearing from gear assembly. Use Puller Plate (C-91-32337A1). hand thread). (Figure 1) On l-thru-160 models, remove (Figure 2) nut (right hand thread). Washer, tapered roller bearing, spacer and gear (assembly) can be lifted from upper 6. Use Slide Hammer Puller (C-91-34569A1) with Jaws drive shaft. (C-91-46086Al) to remove lower bearing cup. On 1 5. On 60-80 and 90, press roller from upper drive shaft thru-165 models, then remove oil seals. REMOVAL (120-thru-888 with Pressed-On Gear) 1. Using Universal Puller Plate C-91-37241,place upper drive shaft assembly on arbor press and remove pinion gear bearing assembly. (Figure 3) 2. With Universal Puller Plate (C-91-37241) placed under upper drive shaft bearing and, using an appropriate tool, press bearing from drive shaft on an arbor press. (Figure 4) 3. Support pinion gear and press upper drive shaft from pinion gear with appropriate tools. Figure 4. Removing Upper Drive Shaft Bearing uus^u Figure 3. Removing Pinion Gear Bearing Figure 5. Removing Pinion Gear from Upper Drive Shaft REASSEMBLY (MerCruiser 60-80-90) 1. Place upper drive shaft in Powerhead Stand (C-9125821 Al). 2. Place tapered roller bearing on upper drive shaft. 3. Place pinion gear, spacer, small tapered roiler bearing and impeller shaft on upper drive shaft and torque to 40 ft. lbs. (5.52mkg). (Figure 6) Figure 6. Torquing Impeller Shaft-MerCruiser 60-80 and 90 01930 107 1r 1 DRIVE SYSTEMS - 6A-27 (C-91torque (C-91torque MERCRUISER l-thru-165 1. Place upper drive shaft in Powerhead Stand 30591Al). 2. Press tapered roller bearing on pinion gear. 3. Place pinion gear, spacer, small tapered roller bearing and washer (bowed side away from gear) andnut to 85 ft. lbs. (11.73mkg). (Figure 7) Figure 7. Torquing Upper Drive Shaft Nut- MerCruiser l-thru-165 REASSEMBLY (120-thru-888 with Pressed-On Gear) 1. Make sure that "0 " ring is in place onshaft, then press pinion gear onto upper drive(Figure 8) 2. Using appropriate tools, press upper drive shaft bearing and pinion gear bearing onto upper drive Figure 8. Pressing Pinion Gear onto Drive Shaft OIL SEAL INSTALLATION 1. Use Loctite Type "A " (C-92-32609) and press lower 2. Press upper (larger) oil seal into housing thru oil (small) oil seal into housing from gear housing side, chamber with lips toward oil chamber with tool (C-91flush with housing and wiithseal lips toward oil chamber. 33490). upper drive shaft. shaft. 6A-28 - DRIVE SYSTEMS 107 1 R 1 SHIMMING DRIVE GEAR and UNIVERSAL JOINT SHAFT NOTE: When shimming MerCruiser 120 and 140 drive 3. Place Drive Gear Shimming Tool (from chart below, units (Serial No. 2791956 and above), disregard hole left) into drive shaft housing thru top cover opening. marked "120" or "X" in Pinion Shimming Tool (C-4. Apply a light coat of Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92 91-45878) and use hole marked "160" or "Y". The 49588) to outside of bearing cartridge and slide comlater 120-140 pinion gear has its measuring surface in plete assembly into drive shaft housing. the same position as the 160-165 pinion gear. 5. Install stainless steel washer and threaded cover. Tighten cover securely, observing torque, following: MerCr. 60-80-90 : Approx. 150 ft. lbs. (20.7mkg) MerCr. l-thru-165 and 888: Approx. 200 ft. lbs. (27.6mkg) 6. Measure gap between flat surface of drive gear and face of tool with feeler gauge. (Figures 9 and 10) 7. For correct gear mating, gap between tool surface and gear tooth must be exactly .025" (.64mm). 8. Add or subtract shims between bearing cartridge and drive shaft housing to achieve proper gap. Threaded cover must be tightened after any change in shimming. 9. After proper clearance between tool and gear has been attained, remove shimming tool and universal joint shaft assembly. Figure 9. Measuring Drive Gear Clearance-!-60-80-90 10. Set assembly aside, being careful not to damage shims. NOTE: When using Tool C-91-60523, perform "Driven 11. MerCruiser I: Place rubber "0 " ring around bearing cartridge. Gear Shimming" before shimming drive gear, then using Shimming Tool C-91-60523, vertical drive shaft may remain installed when checking driving gear clearance. Tool is placed into drive housing over tapered roller bearing with letter "7," toward driving gear for MerCruiser 888, letter "X" for MerCruiser 120-140 (Serial Nos. below 2791956) and letter "Y" for Mer- Cruiser 160-165 and MerCruiser 120-140-drive units (Serial No. 2791956 and above). Pinion Shimming Tools (Driving Gear) MerCruiser 60-80-90 -C-91-36763 MerCruiser I -C-91-33487 MerCr. 1-IA-IB-1C -C-91-36385 MerCr. 120-140-165 -C-91-45877 (See "NOTE" at top of this page.) MerCr. 120-140-165-888 -C-91-60523 (See "NOTE" directly above.) 1. Clamp drive shaft housing in vise between 2 blocks of soft wood. 2. Install original shims in drive shaft housing. Figure 10. Measuring Drive Gear Clearance 120-140-160-165-888 473R2 • rive systems - 6a-29 DETERMINING UPPER DRIVE SHAFT PRELOAD NOTE: Some model !20-thru-888 drive shaft housings Screw Torque have a bellville washer under the cop cover bearing race, Models l-thru-165 and 888: 20 ft. lbs. (2.76mkg) which automatically determines the drive shaft preload. Models 60-80-90 : 5-8 ft. lbs. (.7-l.lmkg) Thus, Steps 1-24-5-6 ONLY must be followed. 7. Complete "A" or "B", following, to determine proper upper drive shaft preload: 1. Place original shims in drive shaft housing. A. Attach an ounce-measuring scale to end of string, as 2. Install hearing cup in drive shaft housing with Bearing Cup explained in Step 3, preceding. Pull eveniy and Driver (C-91-33493). Coat oil seal with Multipurpose smoothly on scale. Proper bearing preload will indicate Lubricant (C-9249588). 3. Complete Step 4, following, for checking preload with between 32 to 64 ounces of tension (Figure 12) or 2 to torque wrench or secure end of a piece of heavy string to 4 in. lbs. centcr of upper drive shaft and wind it around drive shaft approximately 10 times. End of string should extend about 10" (25cm). (Figure 11) B. Insert gear housing drive shaft with pinion nut into upper drive shaft splines and use an inch-lbs. reading Figure 11. Attaching String to Upper Drive Shaft torque wrench to check preload at 2 to 6 in. lbs. (1.065 to 1.42kg/cm). 4. Coat lower seal lips with Multipurpose Lubricant before placing upper drive shaft assembly in drive shaft housing. 8. If more tension is required to turn drive shaft, shims must Extend end of string thru drive, if Step 3 is followed. be removed from under bearing cup in cover or pump base. 5. Install top cover (or water pump body on 60-80-90 If tension is less than specified, shims must be added under models) without "0"ring. bearing cup to obtain proper preload. 6. Install and tighten cover (or body) screws evenly while 9. If making a change in shim thickness, cover or pump base turning drive shaft. Improper over-shimming would be again must be torqued before measuring drive shaft bearing indicated by binding or tightening of drive shaft. preload. SHIMMING UPPER DRIVE SHAFT GEAR (DRIVEN) 1. Place shimming tool in drive shaft housing thru drive be added under bottom bearing cup equal in thickness to gear opening. amount of feeler gauge reading over specified size. If gap 2. Measure clearance between tool surface and Hat surface on is less than specified, shims equal in thickness to amount gear teeth with feeler gauge. (Figures 9 and 10) The 2 of feeler gauge less than specified size must be removed outside teeth of the 3 gear teeth, which align with from under bottom bearing cup. shimming tool, are used to measure clearance. DO NOT NOTE: On some MerCruiser 120-thru-888 with pressed-on measure clearance on center tooth. bearing (fine splined) drive shaft, preload is set by Belleville washer in top cover. NOTE: W,hen using Tool C-91-60526, letter "Z" is used for MerCruiser 888 drive units. Letter "Y" is IMPORTANT: Any change in shim thickness under used for MerCruiser 120-140 drive units and letter ".V" bottom bearing cup in drive shaft housing will change drive for MerCruiser 160-165 drive units. shaft preload. If shims are removed from under bottom bearing cup, shims equal in thickness must be added under For correct gear mating, clearance between tool surface bearing cup in top cover or pump base. If shims are added and gear tooth must be .025" (.635mm). If gap between under bottom bearing cup, shims equal in thickness should tool and gear tooth is greater than specified, shims must be removed under bearing cup in top cover or pump base. 6a-30 - drive systems 107 1 R 1 Figure 13. Measuring Gear Clearance - MerCruiser 1-60-80-90 It is suggested that drive shaft bearing preload be rechecked after any changes in shimming which affect amount of gear lash. Shimming Tools (Driven Gear) MerCruiser 60-80-90 -C-91-38764 MerCruiser 1 -C-91-33488 MerCr. IA-1B-1C - C-91 -36384 MerCr. 120-140-160-165 - C-91 -45878 MerCr. 120-140-165-888 -C-91-60526 MERCRUISER 60-80-90 1. Remove water pump body assembly. 2. Position large "0 " ring on water pump base and small "0 " rings over ports in drive shaft housing. 3. Install pump body and torque screws to 5-8 ft. lbs. (.7-l.lmkg). MERCRUISER I-thru-165-888 1. Remove top cover assembly and place "0 " ring on cover assembly. 2. Except on MerCruiser IC and 160 drives, reinstall cover assembly in drive shaft housing and torque screws to 20 ft. lbs. (2.76mkg). MerCruiser IC and 160-165 drives require mating gears tooth-for-tooth with the universal joint gear, preceding. (Figure 15) Figure 14. Measuring Gear Clearance - MerCruiser 1A-thru-165 and 888 Figure 15. MerCruiser 160-165 Gear (Left) and IC (Right) NOTE: Perform "Determining, Upper Drive Shaft Preload", preceding, for drive shaft without Belleville washer. 107 1r 1 DRIVE SYSTEMS - 6A-31 1 - Drive Shaft Housing 2 - Stud 3 - Pipe Plug 4 - Welch Plug 5 - Bushing 6 - Nut 7 - Cover Assembly 8 - Rubber Seal 9 - Gasket 10 - Screw 11 - Water Tube 12-Plug 13 - Decal Set 14 - Screw 15-Washer 16-Oil Seal 17 - Oil Seal 18 - Shim 19 - Tapered Roller Bearing Assembly 20 - Gear Assembly 21 - Drive Shaft 22 - "O" Ring 23 - Bearing Assembly 24 - Spacer 25 - Spring 26 - "O" Ring 27 - Cover Assembly 28 - Screw 29 - Universal Joint Assembly 30 - Yoke 31 - Socket 32 - Cross and Bearing Assembly 33 - Yoke Assembly 34 - "O" Ring 35 - Retainer 36 - Ring 37 - "O" Ring 38 - Carrier Assembly 39 - Oil Seal 40 - Tapered Roller Bearing Assembly 41 - Spacer 42 - Shim 43-Shim 44 - Washer 45 - Nut Figure 1. Drive Shaft Housing and Gear Assembly 6A-32 - DRIVE SYSTEMS 107 1 R 1 1 - Bell Housing Assembly 2 - Gasket 3 - Connector 4 - Connector 5 - Drive Screw 6 - Bumper 7 - Bushing 8 - Oil Seal 9 - Bushing 10 - Rubber Gasket 11 - "0" Ring 12 - Washer 13 - Stud 14 - Washer 15 - Nut 16 - Plug Screw 17 - Grease Fitting 18 - Lubricap 19 - Bellows Assembly 20 - Clamp 21 - Water Hose 22 - Clamp 23 - Exhaust Bellows 24 - Clamp 25 - Shift Shaft Assembly 26 - Shift Shaft 27 - Cotter Pin 28 - Washer 29 - Lever Assembly 30 - Washer 31 - Screw Figure 2. Bell Housing Assembly DRIVE SYSTEMS - 6A-33 1071 R1 BELL HOUSING MODELS 60-80-90 NOTE: For MerCruiser I-IA-lB-lC-120-140-160-165models, refer to pages, following. REMOVAL 1. Remove drive shaft housing assembly as outlined in "Removal-Installation-Alignment," Section 2. 2. Remove hinge pin screws, as shown in Figure 1. Hinge pin screws are right hand thread. Figure 2. Cotter Pin and Shift Shaft Location Figure 1. Removing Hinge Pin Screws 3. Loosen exhaust bellows clamp and remove exhaust 6. Remove screws, which secure hydraulic cylinder to bellows from bell housing. bell housing, and remove cylinder. 4. Loosen universal joint bellows clamp and remove universal joint bellows from gimbal housing. 7. Loosen water hose clamp and remove hose from bell 5. Remove linkage which connects hydraulic piston to housing. shift shaft. It first will be necessary to remove shift shaft. Pull cotter pin from shift shaft and pull shaft out. (Figure 2) 8. Bell housing now is free. REASSEMBLY 1. It is necessary to recement universal joint bellows c. Wipe outside diameter of bellows mounting flanges and exhaust bellows when installing, as follows: with lacquer thinner. a. Clean outside diameter of bellows mounting flanges d. Allow adhesive to dry 5 to 10 minutes, or until no of gimbal housing and bell housing with wire brush longer tacky, before installing bellows. or sandpaper. e. In cold weather, heat bellows to room temperature b. Apply Bellows Adhesive (C-92-36340A1) to inside with heat lamp or large electric light bulb to make diameter of each end of bellows. more pliable for easier installation. NOTE: Figures 3 and 4 indicate approximate hose WARNING: Bellows Adhesive contains TOLUOL. clamp position. Avoid constant contact with skin or continued breathing of vapor. Keep away from children. f. Recheck and retighten bellows clamps 3-to-4 hours Flammable! IX) NOT USE NEAR FIRE OR FLAME! after replacement. 6A-34 - DRIVE SYSTEMS 107 1 R 1 4. Install water hose to gimbal housing and to bell housing. 5. Install universal joint bellows to gimbal housing and to bell housing. NOTE: Bellows are marked "TOP" to aid correct installation. 6. Install one hinge pin. This will simplify installation of exhaust bellows to bell housing. 7. Install other hinge pin. Place Loctite "A " (C-92-32609) on hinge pin threads and tighten securely. 8. Two screws on hydraulic receiver now can be tightened. 9. Check exhaust and universal joint bellows carefully. They must not be kinked or folded unevenly. 10. Reinstall drive unit as outlined under "Installing Drive Shaft Housing to Bell Housing", preceding in this section. Figure 3. Hose Clamp Locations 2. Install gasket on hydraulic receiver and install receiver on bell housing. Do not tighten screws at this time, since receiver must be tilted to one side to install exhaust bellows. 3. Install exhaust bellows on gimbal housing. Use Gasket Adhesive (C-92-25234) to secure rubber sealing ring to bell housing. Always replace gasket to assure a good seal and to prevent water leakage. NOTE: MerCruiser 60-80-90 have hole, located in bottom of gimbal housing, to facilitate installing exhaust bellows clamp. Figure 4. Hose Clamp Locations in Bell Housing MODELS l-thru-165, 888 and E-Z SHIFT NOTE: Repair procedures for MerCruiser l-thru-165 and 888 are parallel, except where indicated. Refer to preceding pages for MerCruiser 60-80-90. REMOVAL 1. Remove drive shaft housing assembly according to 4. Loosen cable end insert jam nut and back insert out preceding instructions. of cable. 5. On some models, remove clamp which secures shift 2. Disconnect shift cable from inner transom plate and cable to inner transom plate. remove cable end guide. Remove burrs made by set 6. Remove hinge pin lock screws or pins and remove screws on core wire so that inner lining of cable will hinge pins with Hinge Pin Puller (C-91-32327Al)or not be damaged when wire is removed. with Slide Hammer Puller (C-91-34569A1) and Puller 3. Remove inner wire and cable slide. Adaptor (C-91-36060), as shown in Figure 5. 01945 DRIVE SYSTEMS - 6A-35 1071 R1 7. Loosen exhaust bellows clamp and remove exhaust bellows from bell housing. 8. Loosen universal joint bellows clamp and remove universal joint bellows from bell housing. 9. Remove shift cable bellows crimp clamp. 10. Loosen water hose clamp and remove hose from bell housing. 11. Bell housing now is free. Shift shaft and, or reverse lock lever linkage can be removed. Figure 5- Removing Hinge Pins REASSEMBLY 1. Install outer shift cable. Keep cable guide end straight when tightening jam nut. (Figure 6) NOTE: Replacement 'ca- Figure 7. bles require that fit- fitting be removed bell Hose Clamp housing to accept new Screws Installed one-piece cable fitting. in Bell Housing Figure 6. Outer Shift Cable Installed 2. It is necessary to recement universal joint bellows and exhaust bellows when installing, as described in procedure, following. When replacing bellows on drive units, recheck and retighten bellows clamps 3-to-4 hours after replacement as a precaution to prevent bellows from loosening. NOTE: Figures 6 and 7 indicate approximate hose clamp position. 3. Install exhaust bellows on gimbal housing. Later gimbal housings have a hole to facilitate exhaust bellows clamp installation, (b igure 8) 1071R1 Figure 8. Installing Exhaust Bellows Clamp 6A-36 - DRIVE SYSTEMS Figure 9. Tool Placed into Bell Housing Exhaust Outlet 4. Install shift cable bellows on gimbal housing. 5. Install water hose on bell housing. 6. Install universal joint bellows on bell housing according to instructions which follow. Late model bellows is marked "TOP" - "FRONT" to aid installation. 7. Install water hose on gimbal housing. 8. Slide outer cable into shift bellows; do not clamp at this time. 9. Install universal joint bellows on gimbal housing as outlined, following. 10. Install one hinge pin. This will simplify installation of exhaust bellows. 11. Install clamp on shift bellows. End of bellows must be approximately 2" (51mm) from cable connector. Squeeze clamp very securely to prevent water from entering. 12. Install exhaust bellows on bell housing with Expander Tool (C-91-45497A1). (Figures 9 and 10) NOTE: Notch tool to clear raised portion of exhaust hole (if necessary). 13. Install other hinge pin. Place Loctite "A " (C-92-32609) on hinge pin lock screws and tighten securely. Later model hinge pins are retained with stainless steel pins. 14. Check exhaust and universal joint bellows carefully for tightness, folds or kinks. 15. Install inner cable and slide. Figure 11. Installing Shift Lever Screw 16. When installing shift cable, the correct tightening procedure for the set screw in the shift actuating cable slide is as follows: Tighten screw securely, then back off approximately %-turn. The screw must be loose enough to permit cable to turn or rotate freely, but tight enough to minimize end play between cable and cable slide. Secure screw with lock wire. 17. Assemble shift lever and upper shift shaft with proper seals and washers, then retain ir. place with cotter key on earlierdrives or with Loctite "A " (C-92-32609) on threads of locking screw. (Figure 11) 18. Reinstall drive unit, then adjust shift cable; both procedures described in "Installation" Section 2. 1071 R1 DRIVE SYSTEMS - 6A-37 GIMBAL RING MODELS 60-80-90 REMOVAL It will be necessary to remove engine per instructions in "Removal-lnstallation-Alignmenl" Section 2. 1. Remove exhaust bellows and water hose from gimbal housing. 2. Remove 2 screws which secure tilt switch lever to gimbal ring. 3. Remove alien head pipe plug which is located in bottom of upper swivel shaft. (Figure 1) 4. Remove alien head screw, located at upper starboard side of gimbal ring. (Figure 1) 5. Remove screw and nut which secure steering arm to upper swivel shaft. This is located in upper recess of inner transom plate. Figure 1. Allen Head Screw Locations 01938 Figure 2. Removing Upper Swive! Shaft 6. Remove lower swivel shaft. Remove cotter pin for lower swivel shaft thru hole located in gimbal housing. 7. Swivel shaft can be removed by pulling from bottom with Puller Head (C-91-38919) and Slide Hammer Puller (C-91-34569A1). (Figure 2) 8. Remove switch leads from ignition coil terminal and condenser mounting bracket screw. 9. Remove 2 screws which secure lead retainer plate and bushing to gimbal housing. 10. Gimbal ring and tilt switch assembly can be removed. 11. Tilt switch can be removed by removing 2 screws which secure it to gimbal ring. REASSEMBLY 1. Install tilt switch, spacer and retaining plate into gimbal ring. Place retaining strap over switch leads and tighten screws and nuts evenly. (Figure 3) 2. Thread switch leads thru gimbal housing. 6A-38 - DRIVE SYSTEMS 3. Align gimbal ring and gimbal housing and install lower swivel shaft with stainless steel washer between gimbal ring and upper gimbal housing boss. Install swivel shaft retaining pin. 107 1 R 1 10. Place one tilt switch lead into each slotted hole in rubber grommet and slide grommet down wires until it stops at temflex sleeve covering wires inside gimbal housing. 11. Feed wires and hydraulic tubing into gimbal housing until grommet seats into tapered hole. Rotate grommet one way or the other (no more than f'j revolution) until both nvlon tubes are to front of gimbal housing, in line and up-and-down. 12. Locate grommet retainer cover with large side opening forward and secure with two '4-28 screws. Proper tubing orientation will have both tubes located in each corner of the large side cover opening. Figure 3. Routing Switch Leads 4. Install upper swivel shaft and steering arm. NOTE: Place shim washer(s) under steering arm (Fig ure 9, following), as required, to maintain an installed clearance of .015" to .030" (.38mm to ,76mm) between gimbal ring and gimbal housing at the lower swivel pin. 5. Install steering arm screw and nut and tighten securely. 6. Install alien head screw which is located at upper starboard side of gimbal ring. (Figure 1) 7. Install alien head pipe plug, located in bottom of swivel shaft. (Figure 1) 8. Install switch actuating lever. (Figure 4) 9. Pass tilt switch leads thru retaining cover and proFi9ure 4" tective rubber sleeve. Switch Actuating Lever Installed DRIVE SYSTEMS - 6A-39 1071 R1 GIMBAL RING MODELS l-thru-165, 888 and E-Z SHIFT NOTE: Repair procedures for MerCruiser I-tkru-165-888 models are parallel, except where indicated. Refer to preceding pages for MerCruiser 60-80-90. REMOVAL (See "Alternate Method", following.) 1. Remove exhaust bellows and universal joint bellows and water hose from gimbal housing. 2. Remove 2 screws which secure switch lever to gimbal ring. (Figure 5) 3. Remove alien head pipe plug located in bottom of upper swivel shaft. (Figure 6) 4. Remove alien head screw located at upper starboard side of gimbal ring. (Figure 6) 5. Remove screw and nut which secure steering arm to upper swivel shaft. This is located in upper recess of inner transom plate. Because of limited space, screw can be turned only one notch at a time. 6- Remove pipe plug located in upper recess of gimbal housing. Figure 6. Allen Head Screw Locations 7. Swivel shaft can be removed by using a thin punch thru pipe plug opening or with Puller Head (C-9138919). 8. Remove retaining roll pin for lower swivel pin with 1/8 " punch. Later swivel pins are secured with a cotter pin. 9. Remove lower swivel pin. 10. Remove switch leads from connections on inner transom plate. 11. Remove 2 screws which secure lead retainer plate to gimbal housing. 12. Gimbal ring and switch assembly can be removed. 13. Switch can be removed by removing 2 screws which secure it to gimbal ring. (Figure 7) ALTERNATE METHOD of REMOVING GIMBAL RING m^K-s.lm^MJamMm u f l ^ H Figure 5. Switch Lever If boat construction is such that it is difficultpossible to remove screw that securesto upper swivel shaft, it is necessaryand transom plates before attempting to removering or switch. (See "Installation Manual" for removing engine and transom plates.) NOTE: For replacement of gimbal housing ballrefer to instructions, following. or imsteering lever to remove engine gimbal bearing, Figure 7. Removing Switch 6A-40 - DRIVE SYSTEMS 107 1 R 1 GIMBAL RING COMPONENT REPLACEMENT 1. Remove needle bearings and oil seals from gimbal ring 4. Press or drive lower oil seal.needle bearing and second and gimbal housing, if necessary. lower oil seal in gimbal housing (lips on both oil seals Press or drive upper needle hearing in gimbal housing face up). Use Needle Bearing Driver (C-91-33491). with Needle Bearing Driver (C-91-33489). 5. Press or drive oil seal, needle bearing and second 3. Press or drive upper oil seal in gimbal housing (lips oil seal ir gimbal ring (lips face up on both oil seals). face up). Use Needle Bearing Driver (C-91-33492). REASSEMBLY 1. Install switch, spacer and retaining plate into gimbal ring. (Figure 7) Place retaining strap on opposite side, route switch leads as shown in Figure 8 and tighten screws and nuts evenly. 2. Thread switch leads thru gimbal housing and install switch lead retainer. 3. Align gimbal ring with gimbal housing and install lower swivel pin with stainless steel washer between gimbal ring and upper gimbal housing boss. Install swivel retaining pin. 4. Install upper swivel shaft and steering arm. NOTE: Place skim washerf s) under steering arm (Fig ure 9) as required, to maintain an installed clearance of .015" to .030" (,38mm to .76mm) between gimbal ring and girrbal housing at the lower swivel pin. 5. Install steering arm screw and nut and torque to 50 ft. lbs. (6.9kgm). 6. Install alien head screw which is located at upper starboard side of gimbal ring. (Figure 6) 7. Install alien head pipe plug, which is located in bottom of swivel shaft (Figure 9), and check clearance. (Figure 10) See "NOTE", preceding, under paragraph 4. Figure 9. Shim Washer Location 8. Reinstall pipe plug (located in upper recess of gimbal housing). 9. Install switch actuating lever. (Figure 5) Figure 8. Installing Switch 1071 R1 DRIVE SYSTEMS - 6A-41 GIMBAL HOUSING BEARING MODELS 60-80-90 REMOVAL 1. Remove gimbal housing ball bearing with Slide Hammer Puller (C-91-34569A1). (Figure i) NOTE: Mark inlet and outlet hydraulic lines befor> Figure 1. Removing Gimbal Housing Ball Bearing removing, to aid in reassembly. 2. Inspect rubber mount carefully. Replace if worn or damaged. 6. Drain hydraulic fluid from sender, receiver and lines. 3. Check ball bearing for roughness. Remove .nlet and return hydraulic lines from hydraulic NOTE: Ball bearing is a sealed bearing. Do not at- receiver, then remove hydraulic lines from sender. tempt to clean or lubricate. 7. Remove oil seal retainer from exhaust outlet with 4. Remove bushings and oil seals from gimbal ring and Slide Hammer Puller (C-91-34569A1) (Figure 2) and gimbal housing. remove oil seal. 5. Remove 2 screws from water tube adaptor plate and remove adaptor and bushing. Pull water tube out from NOTE: Refer to "Gimbal Housing Ball Bearing Re- opposite side. placement", preceding. REASSEMBLY 1. Place ball bearing in rubber mount and cover outside 5. Press or drive lower oil seal, bushing and second of rubber mount with a coat of Bellows Adhesive (C-lower oil sea!' in gimbal housing (lips on both oil 92-36340A1). seals facing up)- Use Needle Bearing Driver (C-9133491). 2. Bearing and mount can be pressed or driven into position. 6. Press or drive bushings into gimbal ring. Use Needle 3. Press or drive upper bushing in gimbal housing with Bearing Driver (C-91-33492). Needle Bearing Driver (C-91-33489). 4. Press or drive upper oil seal in gimbal housing (lips 7. Press oil seal into exhaust outlet and press oil seal facing up). retainer over oi! seal. 6a-42 - drive systems 1071R1 8. Push hydraulic lines thru gimbal hcusing and install lines into hydraulic sender. (Figure 3) Fill hydraulic sender according to instructions ur.der "Filling Hydraulic Shift Sender", following. NOTE: Leaky or damaged flare on tubing at 90° elbow fitting can be repaired by cutting off the flare evenly and removing the threaded nut. Remove original elbow fitting from sender and install new 90° elbow fitting (B-22-48169). Insert tubing into fitting connector and tighten. 9. Place water tube into gimbal housing and put bushing and adaptor plate on from opposite side. Install 2 screws tightly. 10. Install water inlet hose on water tube and tighten clamp. MODEL I REMOVAL 1. Remove drive shaft housing assembly. (See "Drive Shaft Housing", this section. 2. Remove gimbal housing ball bearing with slide Hammer Puller (C-91-34569A1). (Figure 4) 3 Inspect rubber mount and nylon bushing carefully. Replace if worn or damaged. 4. Check ball bearing for roughness. NOTE: Ball bearing is a sealed bearing. Do not attempt to clean or lubricate. Figure 4. Removing Gimbal Housing Ball Bearing ----> REASSEMBLY 1. Nylon bushing for ball bearing must be shimmed for correct fit on drive shaft. Try different shims between nylon bushing and ball bearing until bearing fits snugly on drive shaft but is not a drive fit. (Figure 5) 2. Place ball bearing in rubber mount and cover outside of rubber mount with a thin coat of Multipurpose Lubricant (C-92-49588). 3. Bearing and mount can be pressed into position in gimbal housing by hand. 4. Reinstall drive unit as outlined in "Removal-Installation- Alignment", Section 2. 1071 R1 DRIVE SY