QUICK MENU CLICK FOR CHAPTER TABLE OF CONTENTS TUNING POWERHEAD FUEL IGNITION TIMING ELECTRICAL REMOTE CONTROLS TRIM AND TILT LOWER UNIT HAND STARTERS MAINTENANCE APPENDIX TABLE OF CONTENTS (Cross-Out comment Andre 05.05.2011 03:24:42 blank) 1 SAFETY INTRODUCTION 1-1 CLEANING, WAXING, & POLISHING 1-1 CONTROLLING CORROSION 1-1 PROPELLERS 1-2 FUEL SYSTEM 1-7 LOADING 1-9 HORSEPOWER 1-10 FLOTATION 1-10 EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT 1-12 COMPASS 1-14 ANCHORS 1-16 MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT 1-17 BOATING ACCIDENT REPORTS 1-18 NAVIGATION 1-18 2 TUNING INTRODUCTION 2-1 TUNE-UP SEQUENCE 2-2 COMPRESSION CHECK 2-3 SPARK PLUG INSPECTION 2-3 POWERHEAD SERVICE --REDESIGNED MODEL (See Listing on Page) Removal Disassembling Cleaning & Inspecting Assembling Installation CLEANING & INSPECTING Thermostat Service Reed Block Service Crankshaft Service Connecting Rod Service Piston Service Honing Procedures Cylinder Block Service Check valves 4 FUEL INTRODUCTION GENERAL CARBURETION 3-27 3-27 3-32 3-66 3-48 3-60 3-66 3-66 3-66 3-68 3-70 3-72 3-74 3-75 3-76 4-1 IGNITION SYSTEM 2-4 INFORMATION TIMING AND SYNCHRONIZING 2-5 TROUBLESHOOTING 4- 4 CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT 2-7 "Sour" Fuel 4- 4 FUEL PUMPS 2-9 Leaded Gasoline & Gasohol 4- 5 CRANKING MOTOR Removing Fuel From the System AND SOLENOID 2-10 INTERNAL WIRING HARNESS 2-1 1 WATER PUMP CHECK 2-12 PROPELLER 2-13 LOWER UNIT 2-15 BOAT TESTING 2-16 3 POWERHEAD INTRODUCTION 3-1 Chapter Organization 3-3 POWERHEAD SERVICE --ORIGINAL Fuel Pump Test 4-7 Fuel Line Test 4-9 Rough Engine Idle 4-10 Excessive Fuel Consumption· 4-10 Engine Surge 4-1 1 Anti-Syphon Valve 4-11 ENRICHENER SYSTEM 4-11 2+2 SYSTEM W/ACCELERATOR PUMP --100 & 115HP 4-12 CARBURETOR IDENTIFICATION 4-13 REFERENCED "A" -SIDE BOWL DESIGN (See Listing on Page) 3-5 AND BACK DRAG Removal 3-5 Removal & Disassembling Disassembling 3-7 Cleaning & Inspecting 4-16 Cleaning & Inspecting 3-66 Assembling 4-19 Assembling 3-14 Installation 4-21 Installation 3-25 Adjustments 4-23 REFERENCED "B" W/INTEGRAL FUEL PUMP 4-24 Removal & Disassembling 4-24 Cleaning & Inspecting 4-26 Assembling 4-27 Installation 4-29 Adjustments 4-30 REFERENCED "C" -CENTER SQUARE BOWL 4-31 Removal & Disassembling 4-31 Cleaning & Inspecting 4-34 Assembling 4-36 Installation 4-38 Operating Adjustments 4-39 REFEREN CEO "0" SERIES W ME CENTER SQUARE BOWL 4-41 Cleanin.. &: Inspecting .5-14 Assemb ing .5-17 TYPE II -THUNDERBOLT DISTRIBUTOR LIGHTNING ENERGIZER -POINTLESS AKA ALTERNATOR DRIVER IGNITION (ADI) .5-23 Description .5-23 Troubleshooting .5-23 Removal .5-26 Cleaning &: Inspecting .5-28 Assembling .5-28 Installation .5-29 TYPE Ill -THUNDERBOLT DISTRIBUTOR C. D. POINTLESS .5-31 Description .5-31 Troubleshooting .5-33 4-41 Servicing .5-34 Removal & Disassembling Cleaning & Inspecting 4-43 Removal Assembling 4-45 Cleaning &: Inspecting .5-38 Installation 4-46 Assembling 5-38 Adj ustm ents TYPE IV -THUNDERBOLT FUEL PUMP 4-47 FLYWHEEL -C.D. -POINTLESS 5-40 Theory of Operation Pump Pressure Check 4-47 Description &: Operation .5-40 Troubleshooting 5-41 Removal 4-50 Servicing 5-43 Cleaning & Inspecting 4-51 Removal 5-43 Assembling 4-51 Installation 5-44 OIL INJECTION --AUTO BLEND TYPE V -THUNDERBOLT Description 4-53 FLYWHEEL -C.D. Troubleshooting 4-55 COIL PER CYLINDER Preparation for Use Description &: Operation Auto Blend 4-58 Troubleshooting 5-46 OIL INJECTION --ADVANCED 4-59 Servicing Description 4-59 Removal &: Disassembling .5-.54 Filling System 4-60 Cleaning &: Inspecting 5-56 Purging System 4-61 Assembling &: Installation .5-.57 Troubleshooting 4-61 Servicing System 4-63 6 TIMING AND SYNCHRONIZING Disassembling 4-64 INTRODUCTION &: PREPARATION 6-1 Cleaning & Inspecting 4-65 Assembling 4-67 MODEL .500 1 96. 5-1 967 and Installation 4-69 1968 to Serial No. 23067 5.5 6-3 MODEL .500S No. 23067.56 and Up .5 IGNITION Mid 1968 MODEL .500M No. 23070.56 and Up INTRODUCTION 5-1 Mid 1968 SPARK PLUG EVAUJA TION 5-2 MODEL .500E No. 2406035 and Up POLARITY CHECK 5-4 Mid 1968 to 1975 MODEL 650S No. 2312311 to 2446775 WIRING HARNESS 5-5 TYPE I-DISTRIBUTOR MAGNETO Mid 1968 and 1969 MODEL 6.50E No. 2446775 to 2606853 WITH POINTS 5-6 Description & Operation 5-6 Mid 1968 and 1969 6-4 Troubleshooting 5-8 MODEL .500 197.5 6-7 Servicing 5-12 MODEL .500 1976 to No. 4.576236 6-10 MODEL 500 No. 4576237 and Up 1977 to 1979 MODEL 50HP Since 1979 MODEL 45HP 1986 to 1989 MODEL 40HP Since 1990 6-1 1 MODEL 650 1965 and 1966 MODEL 650E 1968 to No. 2446744 MODEL 650S 1968 to No. 2312310 6-13 MODEL 650 1970 and 1971 MODEL 800 1969 to 1972 MODEL 850 1973 6-15 MODEL 650 1972 to 1975 6-17 MODEL 650 1976 6-19 MODEL 700 1977 to 1979 MODEL 70HP 1979 to 1983 MODEL 60HP 1984 to 1990 MODEL 50HP 1986 to 1990 6-21 STATOR SERVICE 7-17 Removal 7-18 Installation 7-18 CHOKE CIRCUIT AND ENRICHENER SYSTEM 7-19 CRANKING MOTOR CIRCUIT 7-20 Description & Operation 7-20 Troubleshooting 7-21 Removal 7-25 Disassembling-Pinion Gear with Rubber Cushion 7-26 Assembling 7-26 Disassembling -Pinion Gear with Snap Ring or Nut 7-27 Assembling 7-28 Disassembling -Pinion Gear with Top Spring 7-29 Assembling 7-30 CRANKING MOTOR REPAIR 7-30 Disassembling 7-31 Testing Parts 7-32 Cleaning & Inspecting 7-34 Assembling a Bosch MODEL 850 1974 and 1975 To No. 436680 1 6-23 MODEL 800 1978 and 1979 MODEL 850 1976 and 1977 No. 4366802 and Above MODEL 80HP 1979 to 1983 MODEL 75HP 1984 to 86 6-25 MODEL 90HP Since 1987 MODEL 70HP, & 80HP 1987 to 1989 MODEL 75HP Since 1990 MODEL 50HP Since 1991 MODEL 60HP Since 1991 6-27 MODEL lOOHP Since 1988 ALSO MODEL 115HP Since 1989 6-29 7 ELECTRICAL INTRODUCTION 7-1 BATTERIES 7-1 GA UGES AND HORNS 7-7 Temperature Gauges 7-8 Warning Lights 7-8 Fuel Gauges 7-9 Tachometer 7-1 1 Horns 7-11 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 7-12 General Information 7-12 CHARGING CIRCUIT SERVICE 7-13 Troubleshooting 7-14 Rectifier Removal 7-15 Assembling a Delco Remy 7-39 8 REMOTE CONTROLS INTRODUCTION 8-1 STEERING SYSTEMS 8-1 DIRECTIONAL INDICA TOR 8-2 ROTARY STEERING SERVICE 8-5 Disassembling 8-5 Cleaning & Inspecting 8-5 Assembling 8-6 STANDARD RIDE GUIDE KIT 8-8 CUSTOM RIDE GUIDE KIT 8-8 MERCONTROL PANEL EARLY MODEL 8-8 Disassembling 8-8 Assembling 8-11 MERCONTROL BOX LATE MODEL 8-13 Disassembling 8-13 Assembling 8-16 COMMANDER CONTROL BOX Removal & Disassembling 8-17 Cleaning & Inspecting 8-24 Assembling & Installation 8-26 CABLE ADJUSTMENTS 8-35 9 POWER TRIM/TILT INTRODUCTION 9-1 Chapter Organization 9-2 Rectifier Installation 7-17 MECHANICAL TILT PIN 9 POWER TRIM/TILT (Continued) Disassembling Bearing Carrier 10-16 SYSTEM "A" -MODELS WITH TWO Propeller Shaft 10-17 TRIM/TILT CYLINDERS Drive shaft 10-17 Description &: Operation Assembling Special Instructions Bleeding 9-6 Lower Driveshaft Bearing 10-22 Troubleshooting 9-8 Shift Shaft 10-22 Trim Switch Service 9-8 Bearing Carrier 10-23 Service System "A" 9-12 Forward Gear &: Bearing 10-24 Hydraulic Pump Service 9-14 Forward Bearing Race 10-25 Electric Motor Service 9-17 Driveshaft 10-26 Shimming &: Backlash SYSTEM "B" -MODELS WITH TWO Pinion Gear Depth 10-28 TRIM CYLINDERS Forward Gear Backlash 10-29 AND ONE TILT CYLINDER 9-21 Assembling &: Installation Description &: Operation 9-21 Bearing Carrier 10-32 Bleeding 9-22 Reverse Gear Backlash ·10-33 Flushing 9-23 Troubleshooting 9-24 SERVICING CAM-SHIFT TYPE II Removal &: Disassembling 9-31 UNITS MATCHED WITH LATE Manual Release Valve 3-and 4-CYLINDER POWERHEADS Oil Reservoir Cover SINCE ABOUT 1980 10-34 Trim Cylinders Removal and Disassembling Tilt Cylinder 9-36 Bearing Carrier 10-35 Motor &: Pump 9-36 Propeller Shaft 10-36 Cleaning &: Inspecting Assembling &: Installation 9-38 Pump &: Motor 9-42 Tilt Cylinder 9-45 Trim Cylinders 9-48 Reservoir Cover 9-49 Manual Release Valve 9-49 System Installation 9-50 10 LOWER UNIT DESCRIPTION 10-1 CHAPTER COVERAGE 10-1 TROUBLESHOOTING 10-4 REMOVAL --ALL UNITS 10-5 Propeller Removal 10-7 WATER PUMP SERVICE Removal and Disassembling High Pressure Type Pump 10-8 High Volume Type Pump 10-9 SERVICING CAM-SHIFT TYPE I UNITS MATCHED WITH EARLY 3-CYLINDER POWERHEADS TO ABOUT 1979 10-11 Removal Bearing Carrier and Propeller Shaft 10-12 Driveshaft &: Bearing 10-13 For ward Gear &: Bearing 10-15 Shift Shaft 1o'-37 Pinion Gear 10-38 Driveshaft 10-38 Forward Gear 10-39 Pinion Gear Bearing Race 10-40 Forward Bearing Race 10-40 Driveshaft Bearing 10-40 Assembling and Installation Driveshaft Bearing 10-41 Pinion Gear Bearing Race 10-44 Forward Gear Bearing Race 10-44 Shift Shaft 10-45 Forward Gear 10-45 Driveshaft 10-46 Pinion Gear 10-46 Propeller Shaft 10-47 Bearing Carrier 10-48 Pinion Gear Depth 10-49 Forward Gear Backlash 10-50 WATER PUMP ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLATION High Pressure Type Pump 10-52 Shimming (Certain Units) 10-52 High Volume Type Pump 10-56 CLEANING AND INSPECTING ALL UNITS 10-57 LOWER UNIT INSTALLATION 10-60 Filling Lower Unit 10-60 Exhaust Tube Installation 10-61 Propeller Installation 10-64 11 HAND REWIND STARTER PROPELLER SERVICE 12-13 POWER TRIM/TILT 12-15 INTRODUCTION INSIDE THE BOAT 12-16 TYPE "A" (See Introduction) 11-2 LOWER UNIT 12-16 Removal and Disassembling 11-2 WINTER STORAGE 12-18 Cleaning and Inspecting 11-4 Units With Oil Injection 12-19 Assembling and Installation 11-6 Battery Storage 12-20 Type ''B" (See Introduction) APPENDIX Removal and Disassembling 11-13 Cleaning and Inspecting 11-16 METRIC CONVERSION CHART A-1 Assembling and Installation 11-17 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS AND TUNE-UP ADJ. A-2 thru A-1212 MAINTENANCE REED STOP OPENING A-13 CARBURETOR JET S..E/ INTRODUCTION 12-1 ELEVATION CHART A-14 OUTBOARD SERIAL NUMBERS 12-2 LOWER UNIT BACKLASH TABLE A-16 LUBRICATION -COMPLETE UNIT 12-2 LOWER UNIT OIL CAPACITY PRE-SEASON PREPARATION 12-3 AND GEAR CHART A-17 Units With Oil Injection 12-4 PISTON & CYLINDER All Units 12-5 SPECIFICATIONS A-18 FIBERGLASS HULLS 12-10 WIRE IDENTIFICATION DWGS. BELOW WATERLINE SERVICE 12-10 Ignition Systems A-19 thru A-39 SUBMERGED ENGINE SERVICE 12-11 Power Trim/Tilt A-40 Salt Water Submersion 12-11 Remote Controls Fresh Water Submersion 12-12 Console Wiring 2 TUNING 2-1 INTRODUCTION The efficiency, reliability, fuel economy and enjoyment available from engine performance are all directly dependent on having it tuned properly. The importance of performing service work in the sequence detailed in this chapter cannot be over emphasized. Before making any adjustments, check the specifications in the Appendix. NEVER rely on memory when making critical adjustments. Before beginning to tune any engine, check to be sure the engine has satisfactory compression. An engine with worn or broken piston rings, burned pistons, or scored cylinder walls, cannot be made to perform properly no matter how much time and expense is spent on the tune-up. Poor compression must be corrected or the tuneup will not give the desired results. A practical maintenance program that is followed throughout the year, is one of the best methods of ensuring the engine will give satisfactory performance at any time. The extent of the engine tune-up is usu- Portside of a 1991 60hp powerhead. A pre,ctical maintenance and tWling program followed throughout the year, is one of the best methods of ensuring the engine will give satisfactory performance at any time. ally dependent on the time lapse since the last service. A complete tune-up of the entire engine would entail almost all of the work outlined in this manual. A logical sequence of steps will be presented in general terms. If additional information or detailed service work is required, the chapter containing the instructions will be referenced. Each year higher compression ratios are built into modern outboard engines and the electrical systems become more complex, especially with electronic (capacitor discharge) units. Therefore, the need for reliable, authoritative, and detailed instructions becomes more critical. The information in this chapter and the referenced chapters fulfill that requirement. 2-2 TUNE-UP SEQUENCE During a major tune-up, a definite sequence of service work should be followed to return the engine to the maximum performance desired. This type of work should not be confused with attempting to locate problem areas of "why" the engine is not performing satisfactorily. This work is classified as "trouble shooting". In many cases, these two areas will overlap, because many times a minor or major tune-up will correct the malfunction and return the system to normal operation. The following list is a suggested sequence of tasks to perform during the tuneup service work. The tasks are merely listed here. Generally procedures are given in subsequent sections of this chapter. For more detailed instructions, see the referenced chapter. 1-Perform a compression check of each cylinder. See Chapter 5. 2-Inspect the spark plugs to determine their condition. Test for adequate spark at the plug. See Chapter 5. 3-Start the engine in a body of water and check the water flow through the engine. See Chapter 10. 4-Check the gear oil in the lower unit. See Chapter 10. 5-Check the carburetor adjustments and the need for an overhaul. See Chapter 4. 6-Check the fuel pump for adequate performance and delivery. See Chapter 4. A boat and lower unit covered with marine growth. Removing the spark plugs for inspection. Worn Such a condition is a serious hinderance to performance plugs are one of the major contributing factors to poor and cannot be corrected by tuning the powerhead. engine performance. COMPRESSION CHECK 2-3 7-Make a general inspection of the igni tion system. See Chapter 5. 8-Test the cranking motor and the sole noid. See Chapter 7. 9-Check the internal wiring. 10-Check the timing and synchroniza tion. See Chapter 6. 2-3 COMPRESSION CHECK A compression check is extremely important, because an engine with low or uneven compression between cylinders CANNOT be tuned to operate satisfactorily. Therefore, it is essential that any compression problem be corrected before proceeding with the tune-up procedure. See Chapter 3. If the powerhead shows any indication of overheating, such as discolored or scorched paint, inspect the cylinders visually thru the transfer ports for possible scoring. It is possible for a cylinder with satisfactory compression to be scored slightly. Also, check the water pump. The overheating condition may be caused by a faulty water pump. Checking Compression Remove the spark plug wires. ALWAYS grasp the molded cap and pull it loose with a twisting motion to prevent damage to the connection. Remove the spark plugs and keep them in ORDER by cylinder for evaluation later. Ground the spark plug leads to the engine to render the ignition system inoperative while performing the compression check. Insert a compression gauge into the No. 1, top, spark plug opening. Crank the engine with the pull rope of the hand starter, thru at least 4 complete strokes with the throttle at the wide-open position, to obtain the highest possible reading. Record the highest reading. Repeat the test and record the compression for each cylinder. A variation between cylinders is far more important than the actual readings. A variation of more than 15 psi between cylinders indicates the lower compression cylinder is defective. The problem may be worn, broken, or sticking piston rings, scored pistons or worn cylinders. Use of an engine cleaner will help to free stuck rings and to dissolve accumulated carbon. Follow the directions on the can. 2-t SPARK PLUG INSPECTION Inspect each spark plug for badly worn electrodes, glazed, broken, blistered, or lead fouled insulators. Replace all of the plugs, if one shows signs of excessive wear. Make an evaluation of the cylinder performance by comparing the spark condition with those shown in Chapter 5. Check each spark plug to be sure they are all of the same manufacturer and have the same heat range rating. Inspect the threads in the spark plug opening of the block, and clean the threads before installing the plug. When purchasing new spark plugs, ALWAYS ask the marine dealer if there has been a spark plug change for the engine being serviced. A compression check should be taken in each cylinder before spending time and money on tune-up work. Damaged spark plugs. Notice the broken electrode Without adequate compression, efforts in other areas to on the left plug. The broken part MUSI' be found and regain engine performance will be wasted. removed before returning the engine to service. A fouled spark plug. The condition of this plug indicates problems in the cylinder which should be corrected. Today, numerous type spark plugs are available for service. ALWAYS check with the local marine dealer to be sure the proper plug is purchased for the unit being serviced. Crank the engine through several revolutions to blow out any material which might have become dislodged during cleaning. Install the spark plugs and tighten them to a torque value of 20.5ft lb (27Nm). ALWAYS use a new gasket and wipe the seats in the block clean. The gasket must be fully compressed on clean seats to complete the heat transfer process and to provide a gas tight seal in the cylinder. If the torque value is too high, the heat will dissipate too rapidly. Conversely, if the torque value is too low, heat will not dissipate fast enough. 2-5 IGNITION SYSTEM Five, yes five, different ignition systems are used on outboard engines covered in this manual. If the engine performance is less than expected, and the ignition is diagnosed as the problem area, refer to Chapter 5 for detailed service procedures. The various types are clearly identified and cross-referenced in the Appendix. Once the Type system for the powerhead being serviced is known, the work can proceed smoothly. To properly time and synchronize the ignition system with the fuel system, see Chapter 6. Breaker Points SOME GOOD WORDS: High primary voltage in Thunderbolt ignition systems will darken and roughen the breaker points within a short period. This is not cause for alarm. Normally points in this condition would not operate satisfactorily in the conventional magneto, but they will give good service in the Thunderbolt systems. Therefore, DO NOT replace the points in a Thunderbolt system unless an obvious malfunction exists, or the contacts are loose or burned. Rough or discolored contact surfaces are NOT sufficient reason for replacement. The cam follower will usually have worn away by the time the points have become unsatisfactory for efficient service. Check the resistance across the contacts. If the test indicates zero resistance, the points are serviceable. A slight resistance across the points will affect idle operation. A high resistance may cause the ignition system to malfunction and loss of spark. Therefore, if any resistance across the points is indicated, the point set should be replaced. Worn ignition points are a common problem area with units having a distributor with points. TIMING AND S YNCI-RONIZING 2-5 2-6 TIMING AND SYNCHRONIZING Correct timing and synchronization are essential to efficient engine operation. An engine may be in apparent excellent mechanical condition, but perform poorly, unless the timing and synchronization have been adjusted precisely, according to the Specifications in the Appendix. To time and synchronize the engine, see Chapter 6. Battery Check Inspect and service the battery, cables and connections. Check for signs of corrosion. Inspect the battery case for cracks or bulges, dirt, acid, and electrolyte leakage. Check the electrolyte level in each cell. Fill each cell to the proper level with distilled water or water passed thru a demineralizer. Clean the top of the battery. The top of a 12-volt battery should be kept especially clean of acid film and dirt, because of the high voltage between the battery terminals. For best results, first wash the battery with · a diluted ammonia or baking soda solution to neutralize any acid present. Flush the solution off the battery with clean water. Keep the vent plugs tight to prevent the neutralizing solution or water from entering the cells. Check to be sure the battery is fastened securely in position. The hold-down device should be tight enough to prevent any movement of the battery in the holder, but not so tight as to place a strain on the battery <;:ase. The fuel and ignition systems on any engine MUST be properly synchronized before maximum performance can be obtained from the unit. Keep an eye on the date plate affixed to the battery. Batteries seldom have a useful life the full A check of the electrolyte in the battery should be a length of their advertised life expectancy. regular task on the maintenance schedule on any boat. 2-6 TUNING If the battery posts or cable terminals are corroded, the cables should be cleaned separately with a baking soda solution and a wire brush. Apply a thin coating of Multipurpose Lubricant to the posts and cable clamps before making the connections. The lubricant will help to prevent corrosion. If the battery has remained under-charged, check for high resistance in the charging circuit. If the battery appears to be using too much water, the battery may be defective, or it may be too small for the job. Jumper Cables If booster batteries are used for starting an engine the jumper cables must be connected correctly and in the proper sequence to prevent damage to either battery, or the rectifier diodes. ALWAYS connect a cable from the positive terminals of the dead battery to the positive terminal of the good battery FIRST. NEXT, connect one end of the other cable to the negative terminals of the good battery and the other end of the ENGINE for a good ground. By making the ground connection on the engine, if there is an arc when you make the connection it will not be near the battery. An arc near the battery could cause an explosion, destroying the battery and causing serious personal injury. An inexpensive brush should be p.Lrchased and used to clean the battery terminals. Clean terminals will ensure a proper connection. DISCONNECT the battery ground cable before replacing an alternator or before connecting any type of meter to the alternator. If it is necessary to use a fast-charger on a dead battery, ALWAYS disconnect one of the boat cables from the battery first, to prevent burning out the diodes in the rectifier. NEVER use a fast charger as a booster to start the engine because the diodes in the rectifier will be DAMAGED. Alternator Charging When the battery is partially discharged, the ammeter should change from discharge to charge between 800 to 1000 rpm for all models. If the battery is fully-charged, the rpm will be a little higher. Before disconnecting the ammeter, reconnect the red harness lead to the positive battery terminal and install the wing nut. Most problems in the charging system can be attributed to: burnt out diodes (inside the rectifier), or burnt out stator coil connections (under the flywheel). Both these conditions will lead to an undercharged battery. A defective rectifier may cause the battery to "overcharge" or prevent the battery from being "fully charged". Common set of jumper cables for using a second battery to crank and start the engine. EXTREME care should be exercised when using a second battery, as explained in the text. CARBURETOR ADJUiTMENT 2-7 2-7 CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT Fuel and Fuel Tanks Take time to check the fuel tank and all of the fuel lines, fittings, couplings, valves, flexible tank fill and vent. Turn on the fuel supply valve at the tank. If the gas was not drained at the end of the previous season, make a careful inspection for gum forma tion. When gasoline is allowed to stand for long periods of time, particularly in the presence of copper, gummy deposits form. This gum can clog the filters, lines, and passageway in the carburetor. If the condition of the fuel is in doubt, drain, clean, and fill the tank with fresh fuel. Fuel pressure at the top carburetor should be checked whenever a lack of fuel volume at the carburetor is suspected. Check other than Mercury fuel tank for the following: 1-Adequate air vent in the fuel cap. 2-Fuel line of sufficient size, should be 5/16" to 3/8". 3-Filter on the end of the pickup is too small or is clogged. 4-Fuel pickup tube is too small. High-speed Adjustment The high-speed jet is fixed at the factory and is NOT adjustable. However, larger or smaller jets may be installed for different elevations. A worn fuel coupling, bottom, compared with a new one, top. Notice how the pins on the worn coupling are smaller and tapered. For the modest cost involved and to ensure a proper connection, the coupling and line should be replaced if there is any sign of excessive wear. Quicksilver Gasoline Stabilizer and Conditioner may be used to keep the gasoline in the tank fresh. Such an additive will prevent the fuel from "souring" for up to twelve months. An ideal fuel tank and fuel line arrangement for an outboard unit. The tank should be kept clean and well secured in the boat. The quick-disconnect device affords easy removal for filling and safety. 2-8 TUNING Idle Mixture Adjustment The idle mixture and idle speed are set at the factory. Due to local conditions, it may be necessary to adjust the carburetor while the engine is running in a test tank or with the boat in a body of water. For maximum performance, the idle mixture and the idle rpm should be adjusted under actual operating conditions. Set the idle mixture screw at the specified number of turns open from a lightly seated position. In most cases this is from 1 to 1Y2 turns open from close. Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. NEVER, AGAIN NEVER, operate the engine at high speed with a flush device attached. The engine, operating at high speed with such a device attached, would RUNAWAY from lack of a load on the propeller, causing extensive damage. Using a flush attachment and garden hose while operating the engine at idle speed. NEVER operate the engine in gear or above idle speed with such a device. With the engine running in forward gear, slowly turn the idle mixture screw COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the affected cylinders start to load up or fire unevenly, due to an over-rich mixture. Slowly turn the idle mixture screw CLOCKWISE until the cylinders fire evenly and engine rpm increases. Continue to slowly turn the screw CLOCKWISE until too lean a mixture is obtained and the rpms fall off and the engine begins to misfire. Now, set the idle mixture screw one-quarter (1/4) turn out (counterclockwise) from the lean-out position. This adjustment will result in an approximate true setting. A too-lean setting is a major cause of hard starting a cold engine. It is better to have the adjustment on the rich side rather than on the lean side. Stating it another way, do not make the adjustment any leaner than necessary to obtain a smooth idle. If the engine hesitates during acceleration after adjusting the idle mixture, the mixture is too lean. Enrich the mixture slightly, by turning the adjustment screw inward until the engine accelerates correctly. Loosen the locknut and adjust the idle stop screw on the stop bracket until the engine idles at the recommended rpm in Typical idle adjustment screw found on all carburetors used on the powerheads covered in this manual. forward gear. The manufacturer's suggested range is 550-650 rpm. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Repairs and Adjustments For detailed procedures to disassemble, clean, assemble, and adjust the carburetor, see the appropriate section in Chapter 4 for the carburetor type on the engine being serviced. 2-8 FUEL PUMPS Many times, a defective fuel pump diaphragm is mistakinly diagnosed as a problem in the ignition system. The most common problem is a tiny pin-hole in the diaphragm. Such a small hole will permit gas to enter the crankcase and wet foul the spark plug at idle-speed. During high-speed operation, gas quantity is limited, the plug is not fouled and will therefore fire in a sa tisfactory manner. If the fuel pump fails to perform properly, an insufficient fuel supply will be de- RJEL PUMP 2-9 livered to the carburetor. This lack of fuel will cause the engine to run lean, lose rpm or cause piston scoring. When a fuel pressure gauge is added to the system, it should be installed at the end of the fuel line leading to the upper carburetor. To ensure maximum performance, the fuel pressure must be 2 psi or more at full throttle. Tune-up Task Remove the fuel filter on the carburetor. Wash the parts in solvent and then dry them with compressed air. Install the clean element. A fuel pump pressure test should be made any time the engine fails to perform satisfactorily at high speed. NEVER use liquid Neoprene on fuel line fittings. Always use Permatex when making fuel line connections. Permatex is available at almost all marine and hardware stores. To service the fuel pump, see Chapter 4. Filters used with the side-bowl carburetor. The two on the left are obsolete and should be replaced with the new type on the right. Convenient tuning adjustment points for synchronizTypical separate fuel pumps installed on the powering the fuel and ignition systems. heads covered in this manual. 2-10 TUNING CONTACTDISC PLUNGE.. WINDING DUSTCAP SPRINGS Exploded view of a cranking motor solenoid. If the reading is 9-1/2 volts or greater, and the cranking motor fails to operate, repair or replace the unit. See Chapter 7. Solenoid Test A magneto analyzer is required for this test. Turn the selector switch of the magneto analyzer to position No. 2 (distributor resistance). Clip the small red and black leads together. Turn the meter adjustment knob for Scale No. 2 until the meter pointer aligns with the set position on the left side of the OK block on Scale No. 2. Separate Functional diagram of a typical cranking circuit. 2-9 CRANKING MOTOR AND SOLENOID Cranking Motor Test Check to be sure the battery has at least a 90-ampere rating and is fully charged. Would you believe, many cranking motors are needlessly disassembled, when the battery is actually the culprit. Lubricate the pinion gear and screw shaft with No. 10 oil. Connect one lead of a voltmeter to the positive terminal of the cranking motor. Connect the other meter lead to a good ground on the powerhead. Check the battery voltage under load by turning the ignition switch to the START position and observing the voltmeter reading. the red and black leads. Connect the small red test lead to one large terminal of the solenoid. Connect the small black test lead to the other large terminal. Cranking motor used on marine outboard installaTesting the terminals of a side-mounted electrical tions. connector with a volt/ohm/amp meter. TEST PO INT The terminals of a side-mounted electrical connector should be inspected and cleaned each season. This connector is exposed and vulnerable to dampness and corrosion. NEVER connect the battery leads to the large terminals of the solenoid, or the meter will be damaged. Using battery jumper leads, connect the positive lead from the positive terminal of the battery to the the small "S" terminal of the solenoid. Connect the negative lead to the negative battery terminal and the "I" terminal of the solenoid. If the meter pointer hand moves into the OK block, the solenoid is serviceable. If the pointer fails to reach the OK block, the solenoid must be replaced. WIRE HARNESS 2-11 2-10 INTERNAL WIRING HARNESS Check the internal wiring harness if problems have been encountered with any of the electrical components. Check for frayed or chafed insulation and/or loose connections between wires and terminal connections. Check the harness connector for signs of corrosion. Inspect the electrical "prongs" to be sure they are not bent or broken. If the harness shows any evidence of the foregoing problems, the problem must be corrected before proceeding with any harness testing. Verify that the "prongs" of the harness connector are clean and free of corrosion. Convince yourself that a good electrical connection is being made between the harness connector and the remote control harness. Short Test (See the Wiring Diagram in the Appendix) Disconnect the internal wiring harness from the electrical components. Use a magneto analyzer, set on Scale No. 3 and check for continuity between any of the wires in the harness. Use Scale No. 3 and Many electrical problems can be traced to poor connections, faulty wiring, or corroded terminals. Wiring at the dashboard should be "neat and tidy". Wires should be routed to permit the making of bundles and then secured with "tiewraps", as shown. The wires should not be allowed to move as the boat is subjected to violent maneuvers in the water. A properly installed dashboard will permit efficient troubleshooting. Sometimes a malfunction, such as a loose connection, can be detected by visual inspection or simply checking the wire at the terminal. 2-12 TUNING check for continuity between any wire and a good ground. If continuity exists, the harness MUST be repaired or replaced. Resistance Test (See the Wiring Diagram in the Appendix.) Use a magneto analyzer, set on Scale No. 2. Clip the small red and black leads together. Turn the meter adjustment knob for Scale No. 2 until the meter pointer aligns with the set position on the left side of the "OK" block on Scale No. 2. Separate the small red and black leads. Use the Wiring Diagram in the Appendix, and check each wire for resistance between the harness connection and the terminal ends. If resistance exists (meter reading outside the "OK" block) the harness MUST be repaired or replaced. 2-1 1 WATER PUMP CHECK FIRST A GOOD WORD: The water pump MUST be in very good condition for the engine to deliver satisfactory service. The pump performs an extremely important function by supplying enough water to properly cool the engine. Therefore, in most cases, it is advisable to replace the complete water pump assembly at least once a year, or anytime the lower unit is disassembled for service. PUMP BASE Major parts included in a water pump kit, available at the local marine dealer at modest cost. Sometimes during adjustment procedures, it is necessary to run the engine with a flush device attached to the lower unit. NEVER operate the engine over 1000 rpm with a flush device attached, because the engine may "RUNAWAY'' due to the no-load condition on the propeller. A "runaway" engine could be severely damaged. As the name implies, the flush device is primarily used to flush the engine after use in salt water or contaminated fresh water. Regular use of the flush device will prevent salt or silt deposits from accumulating in the water passage-way. During and immediately after flushing, keep the motor in an upright position until all of the water has Damaged piston caused from cylinder overheating Cutaway photographic view of a lower Wlit showing when the cooling system failed to provide adequate the various parts of the water pump installed. coolant. Worn water pump impeller, unfit for service. drained from the drive shaft housing. This will prevent water from entering the power head by way of the drive shaft housing and the exhaust ports, during the flush. It will also prevent residual water from being trapped in the drive shaft housing and other passageways. Most outboard engines have water exhaust ports which deliver a tattle-tale stream of water, if the water pump is functioning properly during engine operation. Water pressure at the cylinder block should be checked if an overheating condition is detected or suspected. To test the water pump, the lower unit MUST be placed in a test tank or the boat moved into a body of water. The pump must now work to supply a volume to the engine. A tattle-tale stream of water should be visible from the ports. PROPELLER 2-13 A water pressure kit is available from the local marine dealer for use with the larger horsepower engines. This kit will indicate the amount of water pressure the pump is delivering to the engine at all times. The first time the pressure indicator falls off, the pump should be serviced. To install the kit, simply connect the necessary fitting and water pressure hose onto the cylinder block. Place the water pressure gauge in a convenient position for viewing while operating the boat. Water pressure at full throttle under any boat operating condition, such as sharp turns, or other quick maneuvers, MUST be 5 psi or more. Lack of adequate water supply from the water pump thru the engine will cause any number of power head failures, such as stuck rings, scored cylinder walls, burned pistons, etc. 2-12 PROPELLER Inspect the propeller blades for nicks, cracks, or bent condition. If the propeller is damaged, the local marine dealer can make repairs or send it out to a shop specializing in such work. Check with the local marine dealer, or a propeller shop for the recommended size and pitch for a particular size engine, boat, and intended operation. The correct propel- A water pressure gauge kit available from the local marine dealer. All necessary parts and fittings to complete the installation, are included in the package. Example of a da maged propeller. This unit should have been replaced long before this much damage was sustained. Damage was caused to this W1it when the propeller struck an W1derwater object. If the propeller should suffer this much abuse, the propeller shaft should be carefully checked. ler should be installed on the engine to enable operation at the upper end of the factory recommended rpm. If the powerhead rpm is below the rated rpm range, use a smaller or less pitch propeller. The reason for adjusting to the "high" side of the rpm range is to compensate if a heavier load is carried in the boat, the wide open throttle (WOT) rpm will not drop substantially. If the powerhead rpm is above the recommended rpm, try a higher pitch propeller or the same pitch cupped. See Chapter 1 for explanation of propeller terms, pitch, diameter, cupped, etc. One size smaller propeller usually gives best performance for water skiing. New propeller ready for installation and service. For a dual engine installation, the next higher pitch propeller may prove the most satisfactory arrangement for water skiing. Remove the propeller and the thrust hub. Check the propeller shaft seal to be sure it is not leaking. Check the area just forward of the seal to be sure a fish line is not wrapped around the shaft. The amoW1t of lubricant in the lower W1it should be checked on a daily basis during the operating season. The lubricant should be drained and replenished every 100 hours of operation. This rope became entangled behind the propeller aro!md the propeller shaft. The propeller should be removed periodically and this area checked for foreign material. LOWER UNIT 2-15 The manufacturer recommends the use of his brand name lubricant to service the lower unit. 2-13 LOWER UNIT NEVER remove the vent or filler plugs when the lower unit is hot. Expanded lubricant would be released through the plug hole. Check the lubricant level after the unit has been allowed to cool. Add only Super-Duty Gear Lubricant. NEVER use regular automotive-type grease in the lower unit, because it expands and foams too much. Outboard lower units do not have provisions to accommodate such expansion. If the lubricant appears milky brown, or if large amounts of lubricant must be added to bring the lubricant up to the full mark, a thorough check should be made to determine the cause of the loss. Draining Lower Unit Remove the FILL plug from the lower end of the gear housing on the port side and the VENT plug just above the anti-cavitation plate. Filling Lower Unit Position the drive unit approximately vertical and without a list to either port or starboard. Insert the lubricant tube into the FILL/DRAIN hole at the bottom plug hole, Filling the lower unit with new lubricant. Notice the unit is filled through the lower plug, but the upper plug MU!rr be removed to allow trapped air to escape. HOOK ROCKER Boat performance will be drastically impaired, if the bottom is damaged by a dent (hook) or bulge (rocker). and inject lubricant until the excess begins to come out the VENT hole. Install the VENT plug first then replace the FILL plug with NEW gaskets. Check to be sure the gaskets are properly positioned to prevent water from entering the housing. For detailed lower unit service procedures, see Chapter 9. For lower unit lubrication capacities, see the Appendix. 2-14 BOAT TESTING Operation of the outboard unit, mounted on a boat with some type of load, is the ultimate test. Failure of the power unit or the boat under actual movement through the water may be detected much more quickly than operating the power unit in a test tank. Hook and Rocker Before testing the boat, check the boat bottom carefully for marine growth or evidence of a "hook" or a "rocker" in the bottom. Either one of these conditions will greatly reduce performance. Performance Mount the motor on the boat. Install the remote control cables and check for proper adj ustrnen t. Make an effort to test the boat with what might be considered an average gross load. The boat should ride on an even keel, without a list to port or starboard. Adjust the motor tilt angle, if necessary, to permit the bow to ride slightly higher than the Maximum engine performance can only be obtained through proper tuning using a tachometer. stern. If heavy supplies are stowed aft of the center, the bow will be light and the boat will "plane" more efficiently. For this test the boat must be operated in a body of water. If the motor is equipped with an adjustable trim tab, the tab should be adjusted to permit boat steerage in either direction with equal ease. Check the engine rpm at full throttle. The rpm should be within the Specifications in the Appendix. If the rpm is not within specified range, a propeller change may be in order. A higher pitch propeller will decrease rpm, and a lower pitch propeller will increase rpm.· For maximum low speed engine performance, the idle mixture and the idle rpm should be readjusted under actual operating conditions. Adjusting the trim tab to receive optimum performance from the boat and power unit. 3 POWER HEAD 3-1 INTRODUCTION The carburetion and ignition principles of two-cycle engine operation MUST be understood in order to perform a proper tuneup on an outboard motor or industrial engine. The two-cycle engine differs in several ways from a conventional four-cycle (automobile) engine. The exterior and interior of the powerhead must be kept clean, well-lubricated, and properly twted and adjusted, if the owner is to receive the maximum enjoy­ment from the wtit. 1-The method by which the air/fuel mixture is delivered to the combustion chamber. 2-The complete lubrication system. 3-In most cases, the ignition system. 4-The frequency of the power stroke. These differences will be discussed briefly and compared with four-cycle engine operation. Intake/Exhaust Two-cycle engines utilize an arrangement of port openings to admit fuel to the combustion chamber and to purge the exhaust gases after burning has been completed. The ports are located in a precise pattern in order for them to be opened and closed at an exact moment by the piston as it moves up and down in the cylinder. The exhaust port is located slightly higher than the fuel intake port. This arrangement opens the exhaust port first as the piston starts downward and therefore, the exhaust phase begins a fraction of a second before the intake phase. Actually, the intake and exhaust ports are spaced so closely together that both open almost simultaneously. For this reason, the pistons of most two-cycle engines have a deflector-type top. This design of the piston top serves two purposes very effectively. First, it creates turbulence when the incoming charge of fuel enters the combustion chamber. This turbulence results in more complete burning of the fuel than if the piston top were flat. The second effect of the deflector-type piston crown is to force the exhaust gases from the cylinder more rapidly. This system of intake and exhaust is in marked contrast to individual valve arrangement employed on four-cycle engines. Lubrication A two-cycle engine is lubricated by mixing oil with the fuel. Therefore, various parts are lubricated as the fuel mixture passes through the crankcase and the cylinder. Four-cycle engines have a crankcase containing oil. This oil is pumped through a circulating system and returned to the crankcase to begin the routing again. Physical Laws The two-cycle engine is able to function because of two very simple physical laws. One: Gases will flow from an area of high pressure to an area of lower pressure. A tire blowout is an example of this principle. The high-pressure air escapes rapidly if the tube is punctured. Two: If a gas is compressed into a smaller area, the pressure increases, and if a gas expands into a larger area, the pressure is decreased. If these two laws are kept in mind, the operation of the two-cycle engine will be easier understood. Adding approved lubricant to the fuel tank at the time the tank is being filled. Some fuel must be in the tank to prevent the oil from sticking to a dry bottom. Actual Operation Beginning with the piston approaching top dead center on the compression stroke: The intake and exhaust ports are closed by the piston; the reed valve is open; the spark plug fires; the compressed air/fuel mixture is ignited; and the power stroke begins. The reed valve was open because as the piston moved upward, the crankcase volume increased, which reduced the crankcase pressure to less than the outside atmosphere. As the piston moves downward on the power stroke, the combustion chamber is filled with burning gases. As the exhaust port is uncovered, the gases, which are under great pressure, escape rapidly through the exhaust ports. The piston continues its downward movement. Pressure within the crankcase increases, closing the reed valves against their seats. The crankcase then becomes a sealed chamber. The air/fuel mixture is compressed ready for delivery to the combustion chamber. As the piston continues to move downward, the intake port is uncovered. A fresh air/fuel mixture REED VALVE REED VALVE OPEN CLOSED Reed valves are used to control the flow of air/fuel into the crankcase and eventually into the cylinder. As the piston moves upward in the cylinder, the resulting suction in the crankcase overcomes the spring tension of the reed. The reed is pulled free from its seat and the air/fuel mixture is drawn into the crankcase. CHAPTER ORGANIZATION 3- 3 rushes through the intake port into the combustion chamber striking the top of the piston where it is deflected along the cylinder wall. The reed valve remains closed until the piston moves upward again. When the piston begins to move upward on the compression stroke, the reed valve opens because the crankcase volume has been increased, reducing crankcase pressure to less than the outside atmosphere. The intake and exhaust ports are closed and the fresh fuel charge is compressed inside the combustion chamber. Pressure in the crankcase decreases as the piston moves upward and a fresh charge of air flows through the carburetor picking up fuel. As the piston approaches top dead center, the spark plug ignites the air-fuel mixture, the power stroke begins and one complete cycle has been completed. Timing The exact time of spark plug firing depends on engine speed. At low speed the spark is retarded, fires later than when the piston is at or beyond top dead center. Engine timing is built into the unit at the factory. At high speed, the spark is advanced, fires earlier than when the piston is at top dead center. On some late models and larger engines, the timing can be changed in the field to meet advance and retard factory specifications. Summary More than one phase of the cycle occurs simultaneously during operation of a twocycle engine. , On the downward stroke, power occurs above the piston while the ports are closed. When the ports open, exhaust begins and intake follows. Below the piston, fresh air-fuel mixture is compressed in the crankcase. On the upward stroke, exhaust and intake continue as long as the ports are open. Compression begins when the ports are closed and continues until the spark plug ignites the air-fuel mixture. Below the piston, a fresh air-fuel mixture is drawn into the crankcase ready to be compressed during the next cycle. CHAPTER ORGANIZATION This Chapter is divided into four working sections as follows: Section 3-1 this section, includes chapter organization and general powerh€"ad inform ation. Section 3-2 --contains complete service procedures for origin al Mercury design 3-, and 4-cylinder powerheads, as follows: 45hp 4-cyl. 1986 & On Model 500 4-cyl. 1965-79 50hp 4-cyl. 1980-85 50hp 3-cyl. 1986-90 60hp 3-cyl. 1984-90 Model 650 4-cyl. 1965-7 1 Model 700 3-cyl. 1977-79 70hp 3-cyl. 1980-83 7 5hp 4-cyl. 1984-86 Model 800 4-cyl. 1969-72 Model 800 4-cyl. 1978-79 80hp 4-cyl. 1980-83 Model 850 4-cyl. 1973-77 Section 3-3 --contains complete service procedures for redesigned Mercury 3-and 4cylinder powerheads, as follows: 50hp 3-cyl. 1991 & On 60hp 3-cyl. 1991 & On 70hp 3-cyl. 1987-89 7 5hp 3-cy 1. 1990 & On 80hp 3-cyl. 1987-89 90hp 3-cyl. 1987 & On lOOhp 4-cyl. 1988 & On 115hp 4-cyl. 1989 &0n Section 3-4 --provides detailed instructions for the cleaning and inspection of powerhead components for all models. The redesign of the original inline block became available in 1987 on a few selected models. The reeds were relocated to a reed block housing behind the carburetors. The original design powerhead has reeds arranged around the crankshaft. The shape of the reeds on these new powerheads are also modified. Traditionally, reeds mounted behind the carburetors have horizontally or vertically mounted blocks of reeds. The new 3-and 4-cylinder reed blocks have reed petals arranged in a circle and are called the "rose petal design" by the manufacturer. This type design affords better fuel distribution and provides a smoother operating powerhead. The reeds on these models can now be serviced without removal and disassembly of the powerhead. Other differences between the original and redesigned block are in the cylinder head area. The redesigned block and cylinder head are a one-piece casting. Only the cylinder cover is removable to gain access to the water jacket surrounding the cylinder walls. A cutaway of the block and head casting is shown in the accompanying illustration. The redesigned block has a much larger bore of 3.375" (85.7mm) for both 3-and 4cylinder blocks, as compared to the original bore of 2.875" (73mm) for 3-cylinder blocks or 2.562" (65mm) for 4-cylinder blocks. A "mid-sized" redesigned block was introduced in 1991 for the 3-cylinder 50hp and 60hp models. This block has a bore of 2.951+" (75mm) and is almost identical to the larger redesigned block. The mid-sized block consists of only three main pieces: the intake manifold/reed block housing, the block/upper crankcase casting and the lower crankcase. The lOOhp and 115hp 4-cylinder block has two accelerator check valves on the starboard side of the block. These check valves are a part of the "2+2" concept described in detail on Page 4-12. Simply stated, this powerhead does not fire on all four cylinders below 1800 rpm. Every other cylinder fires, in the regular firing order, to provide smooth operation and fuel economy at idle speed. Repair Procedures Service and repair procedures will vary slightly between individual models, but the basic instructions are quite similar. Special tools may be called out in certain instances. These tools may be purchased from the local marine dealer. The powerheads covered in this Chapter have some differences in construction. Two of the most prominent differences are: Direct charge or cross-flow air/fuel in duction into the cylinder. Caged or uncaged crankpin connecting rod bearings. Service procedures for these differences are identified wherever they occur. Torque Values All torque values must be met when they are specified. Torque values for various parts of each powerhead are given in the text. A torque wrench is essential to correctly assemble the powerhead. NEVER attempt to assemble a powerhead without a torque wrench. Attaching bolts MUST be tightened to the required torque value in three progressive stages, following the specified tightening sequence. Tighten all bolts to 1/3 the torque value, then repeat the sequence tightening to 2/3 the torque value. Finally, on the third and last sequence, tighten to the full torque value. A manual start unit (above) will require a special strap wrench to hold the flywheel secure while the The redesigned larger bore block used on some 3-and flywheel nut is being tightened to the specified torque value. An electric start unit (below) will require a4-cylinder powerheads since 1988 consists of a one different flywheel holder. The flywheel MUST be piece casting. Only the cylinder and exhaust covers are secured properly while tightening the nut, even at the removable to gain access to the water jacket expense of purchasing a holder. surrounding the cylinders. SERVICE ORIGINAL rESIGN 3-5 Internal parts of a 6-cylinder powerhead cleaned and arranged in order ready for assembling. Naturally, a smaller powerhead with less cylinders will have less out removal and disassembly of the powerhead. Cleanliness Make a determined effort to keep parts and the work area as clean as possible. Parts MUST be cleaned and thoroughly inspected before they are assembled, installed, or adjusted. Use proper lubricants, or their equivalent, whenever they are recommended. 3-2 POWERHEAD SERVICE ORIGINAL DESIGN This Section describes the complete service of Mercury original design 3-, and 4cylinder powerheads, as follows: parts. Powerhead Components 4-cyl. 1986 & On Model 500 4-cyl. 1965-79 Service procedures for the carburetors, fuel pumps, starter, and other power head components are given in their respective Chapters of this manual. See the Table of Contents. Reed Block Installation Some of the powerheads covered in this chapter have the reed block assembly installed around the crankshaft. This means, in order to replace a broken reed on one of these powerheads, the powerhead would have to be overhauled. Some late model design powerheads, covered in this manual have a reed block housing behind the carburetors. The reeds on these models can now be serviced with- Different type of internal reed blocks used on the powerheads covered in this manual. 50hp 4-cy!. 1980-85 50hp 3-cyl. 1986-90 60hp 3-cyl. 198f.t.-90 Model 650 4-cyl. 1965-7 1 Model 700 3-cyl. 1977-79 70hp 3-cyl. 1980-83 75hp 4-cyl. 198f.t.-86 Model 800 4-cy!. 1969-72 Model 800 4-cyl. 1978-79 80hp f.t.-cyl. 1980-83 Model 850 4-cy!. 1973-77 ADVICE Before commencing any work on the powerhead, an understanding of two-cycle engine operation will be most helpful. Therefore, it would be well worth the time to study the principles of two-cycle engines, as outlined briefly in Section 3-1. A Polaroid, or equivalent instant-type camera is an extremely useful item, providing the means of accurately recording the arrangement of parts and wire connections BEFORE the disassembly work begins. Such a record is invaluable during the assembly work. POWERHEAD REMOVAL 1-Disconnect the battery leads at the battery. Disconnect the fuel line at the tank or the engine. Remove the front cowl and the wrap-a-round cowls. Place the shift guide block in the neutral gear position. Remove the shift link attaching nut. Remove the two rear cowl support shock mounting nuts, and then the rear cowl supports. 2-Remove the locknuts from the top and bottom front cowl support shock mounts, and then remove the front cowl support. Remove the four sta-straps from the front of the engine. Remove the center cowl support. STOP, and carefully observe the wiring and hose connections before proceeding. Because there are so many different engines and the arrangement is slightly different on each, it is not possible to illustrate all of them. Even if they were shown, you would Typical fuel pump installation on powerheads covered in this manual. not be able to identify the engine being serviced. Therefore, TAKE TIME to make notes and tag the wiring and hoses. You may elect to follow the practice of many professional mechanics by taking a series of photographs of the engine, one from the top, and couple from the sides showing the wiring and arrangement of parts. 3-Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump. Disconnect the water hose from the exhaust plate elbow. Disconnect the hose from the tattle-tale fitting in the rear support. Remove the nuts on the bottom side of the powerhead from the exhaust housing. 4-Remove the plastic cap from the flywheel and thread a lifting eye onto the end of the crankshaft as far as it will go. 5-Remove the nuts from the studs securing the powerhead to the driveshaft housing. If working on a three-cylinder SERVICE ORIGINAL DESIGN 3-7 powerhead, remove the three cap screws from under the exhaust plate. Using a suitable hoist, lift the powerhead free of the driveshaft housing. BAD NEWS If the unit is several years old, or if it has been operated in salt water, or has not -had proper maintenance, or shelter, or any number of other factors, then separating the powerhead from the driveshaft housing may not be a simple task. An air hammer may be required on the studs to shake the corrosion loose; heat may have to be applied to the casting to expand it slightly; or other devices employed in order to remove the powerhead. One very serious condition would be the driveshaft "frozen" with the crankshaft. In this case, a circular plug-type hole must be drilled and a torch used to cut the driveshaft. The following procedures pickup the work after the powerhead has been separated from the driveshaft housing. POWERHEAD DISASSEMBLING 6-Because there are so many models with varying electrical and ignition systems, refer to Chapter 5 and Chapter 6 for disassembly procedures of the ignition system. If a distributor is used, remove the timing belt pulley cover and slip the belt free of the pulley on the distributor. 7-To remove the flywheel: Remove the flywheel nut. It may be necessary to use a flywheel strap to prevent the flywheel from FLYWHEEL,_/ PULLER Typical high-tension lead wire pattern to the spark plugs on a four-cylinder powerhead. turning in order to loosen the nut. Install a flywheel puller, C-91-48501Al, and a crankshaft protector cap, C-91-24161. These two i terns are necessary and may be obtained from the local marine dealer. Tighten the large square of the puller until the screw is tight against the end of the driveshaft. Now, tighten the center bolt on the puller. Continue to tighten on the center bolt until the flywheel breaks loose from the crankshaft. NEVER strike the flywheel with a mallet or other tool in an effort to break the flywheel loose. Such action will loosen the bottom seal, DESTROY the lower bearing, or possibly damage the crankshaft. Lift the flywheel from the crankshaft. Remove the puller and the protective cap. Remove the stator and trigger plate assembly. 8-To remove the distributor, if one is used: Remove the ground wire from the engine to the distributor. Remove the hightension leads from the spark plugs. ALWAYS use a pulling and twisting motion as a precaution against damaging the connection. Remove the two retaining bolts from the distributor, and at the same time hold the distributor to prevent it from falling and being damaged. Remove all carburetors together as an assembly. This is acc?mplished by first disconnecting the fuel lmes to the carburetors, and then removing the four attaching nuts from the carburetors. Remove the fuel pump, the switch box, and the starter. 9-Remove the crankcase cover bolts and the end cap bolts. NEVER pry between the block and the crankcase with ANY type of tool. Use a soft-headed mallet and tap on the side of the cover to jar it loose from the block. SERVICE ORIGINAL DESIGN 3-9 10-Remove the end caps by tapping on them with a soft-headed mallet. DO NOT tap on the shims. 11-Pad the crankcase mating surface near the ends of the crankshaft with small pieces of wood. Now, use two pry"bars, one at each end, and work the crankshaft assembly supports loose from the locating pins in the cylinder block. Lift the crankshaft assembly clear of the cylinder block and place it on a clean work surface. ADVICE The exhaust cover should always be removed during an engine overhaul. Many times water in the engine is caused by a leaking exhaust cover gasket or plate. 12-Remove the retaining bolts from the exhaust cover, and then remove the exhaust cover and baffle plate. NEVER pry between the block and the cover with ANY kind of tool. Tap the cover loose with a softheaded mallet, and then tap the plate loose with a punch. 13-Turn the cylinder block over and remove the bolts from the transfer port covers. Remove the cover. NEVER pry between the block and the cover with ANY kind of tool. Tap the cover loose with a soft-headed mallet. 14-Cover the work bench with a clean towel. Lay the block on the clean surface with the crankshaft side down. TAKE CARE 3-10 POWERHEAD not to damage the side of the block. Remove the bolts from the cylinder block cover, and then remove the cover. NEVER pry between the block and the cover with ANY kind of tool. Tap the cover loose with a soft-headed mallet. 1.5-Good shop practice dictates to replace the rings during a powerhead overhaul. However, if the rings are to be used again, expand them ONLY enough to clean the piston and the grooves because used rings break easily. If new rings are to be installed, use a piston ring expander and remove the old rings from the piston. ADVICE: New needle bearings should be installed in the connecting rods, even though they may appear to be in serviceable condition. New bearings will ensure lasting service after the overhaul work is completed. If it is necessary to install the used bearings, keep them separate and identified to ensure they will be installed onto the same crankpin throw and with the same connecting rod from which they were removed. 16-Remove the connecting rod nuts and bolts, and then remove the rod cap and connecting rod, bearings and cages. Immediately after disassembling the rod from the cap and crankshaft, temporarily install the cap and rod together to ensure they will be installed properly. Check each mark alignment. SERVICE ORIGINAL DESIGN 3-1 1 17-WEAR eye protection glasses while removing the piston pin lockrings, because the lockring is made of spring steel and may slip out of the pliers or pop out of the groove with considerable force. Remove the two G-type lockrings using a pair of needle-nose pliers. A lockring tool, C-915252Al, may be used to remove the lockring. A third alternative, is to use a punch to pop the lockring out. If a punch is used TAKE CARE not to damage the piston. DISCARD the lockr ings, because they should not be used a second time. 18-Handle the piston with care because the skirt can be easily bent out-of-round. TAKE TIME to scribe an identification mark with an awl on the "I" beam of each rod and a matching mark on the inside of each piston skirt. These identification marks will ensure the same rod will be matched with the same piston and installed into the same cylinder bore during assembly. Remove the piston from the rod by first inserting a pressing pin into the hollow end of the piston pin. Next, support the bottom of the piston with one hand and drive the pin thru the piston with a mallet and the pressing pin. BAD NEWS: On some models it may be necessary to heat the top of the piston to approximately ° 190 with hot water or a heat lamp before the piston pin can be driven out. On some models, needle bearings are used with the piston pin. These bearings will fall out after the pin has been removed. 19-Remove the valve-type main bearing by removing the two Phillips head screws. TAKE CARE not to bend or distort the reed valve stops. Tap the side of the reed cage at the solid section with a soft-headed mallet to separate the halves. After the halves have been removed, assemble them together again, to ensure they remain as a matched set. Reed box repair is covered in the last part of this chapter, Section 3-4. 20-Remove the snap ring from the main bearing and remove the main bearing outer races and bearings. TAKE CARE not to distort the snap ring during removal. Keep the bearing halves together in a clean area. 21-Continue removing the other bearings. TAKE CARE not to damage the crank UPPER TRANSFER OIL SEAL PORT COVER .. UPPER CAP 0-RING CYLI NDER BLOCK TIMI NG GASKET PO I NTER .,.. , 0-+-sEAL INNER OUTER EXHAUST PLATE EXHAUST PLATE LOWER END CAP Arrangement of cylinder block and crankcase assembly parts for the 4-cylinder powerheads covered in this manual. SERVICE ORIGINAL DESIGN 3-13 NEEDLE BEAR ING SET MAIN BEARING (VALVE TYPE) REED STOP REED SET -----!. PI STON .---PISTON PIN LOCAT ING WASHER NEEDLE BEAR ING CONNECTING ROD AND CAP BEARING SNAP FELT RACE RING OI LER NEEDLE BEAR ING CRANKSHAFT SET MAIN BEARING ASSEMBLY Exploded drawing of the complete crankshaft, rod, and piston assemblies used on the 4-cylinder powerhead. 3-14 POWERI-EAD shaft bearing surfaces while they are exposed during service work. CLEANING AND INSPECTING See the last portion of this chapter, Section 3-4, for detailed, comprehensive procedures to clean and inspect all components of the powerhead. POWERHEAD ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLATION FIRST, THESE WORDS: Be sure all parts to be re-used have been carefully cleaned and thoroughly inspected, as outlined in Section 3-4. Parts that have not been properly cleaned, or parts not suitable for service can damage a good powerhead within a few minutes after starting the engine. NEW gaskets MUST always be used during an overhaul. A torque wrench is essential to correctly assemble the powerhead. NEVER attempt to assemble a powerhead without a torque wrench. Attaching bolts MUST be tightened to the required torque value in three progressive stages, following the specified tightening sequence. Tighten all bolts to 1/3 the torque value, then repeat the sequence tightening to 2/3 the torque value. Finally, on the third and last sequence, tighten to the full torque value. ASSEMBLING 1-To replace the upper and lower bearings: Place one of the bearings onto the crankshaft, and then press the bearing into place on the shaft. Using a press is the preferred method as a precaution against damaging the bearing. However, an installer and hammer may be used WITH CARE, as shown. 2-Lubricate the main bearing inner race with Multipurpose Lubricant, or equivalent, and then place the needle bearings around the crankshaft. NEVER mix new needle bearings with used bearings in the same race. If some of the bearings require replacement, ALL bearings must be replaced. 3-Install the bearing onto the crankshaft with the snap ring TOWARD the top of the crankshaft. Place the snap ring in the groove of the bearing. Observe that the mating surfaces of the bearing are rough breaks. Check to be sure the mated areas SERVICE ORIGINAL IISIGN 3-15 are together. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the other main bearing. lf.-Check the number of needle bearings inside the main bearing race by first sliding the bearing race upward, and then inserting the pointed end of an awl between the needle bearings. If the bearing race halves separate, the race is full. Remove the awl and slide the race downward into place. Repeat the check with the awl on the upper row of needle bearings. Check the other main bearing in the same manner. 5-Install the main bearing outer caps around the inner main bearing. Check to be sure the pin in the outer cap indexes with the hole of the inner bearing. Coat the threads of the bolts with a thin film of light-weight oil. Install and tighten the bolts alternately to a torque value of 150 in lb (17Nm). 6-Install the reed block halves around the crankshaft. Check to be sure the pin on one of the reed block halves indexes into the matching hole of the other half. Coat the threads of the two bolts with a thin film of light-weight oil. Install and tighten the 7-Place the piston in a container of hot water, approximately 190 °F. Leave the piston in the hot water, ready for installation later in Step 9. 8-To replace the piston pin and the needle bearings into the piston, first lay the needles on a clean piece of paper. Next, coat the sleeve portion of a piston pin installation tool with a small amount of Multi-purpose Lubricant, or equivalent. If a piston pin tool is not available, a drift slightly smaller in diameter than the pin, may be used. Install the retainer and the needle bearings onto the end of the tool. Leave ONE needle bearing OUT. Push the bearings and the tool into the rod piston pin bore. Now, install the last needle bearing. Place the top retainer on the side of the rod. Finally, ease the tool out of the rod, and at the same time hold onto the needle bearing retainer washers. 9-Carefully position the piston over the end of the rod, paying attention that the retainer washers remain in place, and at the bolts to a torque value of 30 in lb (3.5Nm). 3-16 POWERHEAD same time ease the needle bearing tool down through the piston pin bore and through the rod. 00 NOT force the tool through the needle bearings. STOP: Check to be sure the piston is facing the proper direction, the slope area towards the ex haust port of the block and the intake side of the deflector towards the intake port. 10-Now, bring the piston pin up to the bottom side of the piston and through the pin bore of the piston. Hold the pin tool tightly down against the piston pin, and at the same time use a mallet and drive the pin up and through the piston and rod bearing. As soon as the pin is almost flush with the piston surface, remove the piston pin tool and use it to drive the pin upward until the backing ring grooves are visible. 11-Piston pin locking clips should not be used a second time. Therefore, snap NEW locking clips into the groove of the piston pin bore in the piston. WEAR eye protection Assembled piston and rod ready for installation into the powerhead. Notice the relationship of the intake and exhaust deflector on the piston crown to the position of the rod. glasses while installing the piston pin lockrings, because the lockring is made of spring steel and may slip out of the pliers or pop out of the groove with considerable force. Install the two lockrings using a pair of needle-nose pliers. A lockring tool C-915252Al, may be used to install the lockrings. The clip retains the piston pin in place after the piston becomes hot during operation. 12-Expand the ring slightly with the fingernail of each of your thumbs and at the same time support the back of the ring with your fingers. Now, slide the ring down over the piston and into its proper groove. After the rings are in place, each ring should rotate freely. Lubricate the piston, the rings, and the cylinder bore with a good grade of outboard motor oil. Rotate the rings in their grooves until the ends of each ring is over the locating pin in the groove of the piston. Repeat Steps 7 thru 12 for the other pistons and rods. 13-Work each piston one at-a-time. Remove the rod cap from the rod. (The caps were temporarily attached to the rods immediately after removal to ensure they would not become separated.) The manufacturer recommends new rod cap bolts and nuts. The small cost involved is justified compared with the time and expense of the powerhead overhaul work. Therefore, DISCARD the cap bolts and nuts. Apply a small amount of Multi-purpose Lubricant, or equivalent, onto each bearing race half to hold the roller bearings and retainers in place. Insert the retainer into the race, and then insert the roller bearings into the retainers. NEVER mix new roller bearings with used bearings in the same race. If some of the bearings require replacement, ALL bearings must be replaced. Position the connecting rod and cap onto the crankshaft throw with the etched marks aligned. ALWAYS clean new or old connecting rod bolts and nuts with solvent. New bolts and nuts have a protective coating to protect the threads during shipment. This coatingMUST be removed. Blow them dry with compressed air. NEVER oil the nuts or bolts prior to installation. Install the new cleaned rod bolts and nuts and bring them up snug. Tighten the nuts alternately in three stages, to a torque value of 180 in lb (20Nm). On the first stage, tighten to 1/3 the torque value. On the second stage, tighten to 2/3 the total torque value. Finally, on the third and last stage, tighten to the full torque value. 14-After the nuts have been tightened properly, rotate the connecting rod and verify that it turns freely without any evidence @ SERVICE ORIGINAL DESIGN 3-1 7 of binding or "rough" spots. If a "rough" spot is felt, remove the rod cap, check the roller bearings, retainer, and race, then install the cap again. Repeat the procedure in this step for each connecting rod. WORDS FROM EXPERIENCE There is no easy way to install the assembled pistons and crankshaft into the block. Without ring compressor tools, the job is even more difficult. Three compressors are needed. A straight one for the top piston and two off-set compressors for the No. 2 and No. 3 pistons. Marine ring com 3-1 8 POWERHEAD pressor tools are usually available at modest cost from the local dealer. 15-On 4-cylinder engines: Use the straight ring compressor on the No. 1 and 2 pistons. Use the off-set ring compressor on the No. 3 and 4 pistons. 16-On 3-cylinder engines: Use the offset ring compressor on the No. 1 and No. 3 pistons. Use the straight compressor on the No. 2 piston. 17-Place the ring compressor tool over the crankshaft and down the skirt of the piston onto the rings. Begin to tighten the tool onto the rings, and at the same time, check to be sure the ring ends are over the piston pin. Continue to tighten the tool until the rings are almost flush with the surface of the piston. Repeat the procedure for the other pistons. 18-Insert the reed block locating pins into the block, if they were removed. CHECK to be sure the flywheel end of the crankshaft is facing the top of the engine. (Would you believe, the crankshaft could be installed upside down?) Check to be sure EACH piston is facing the proper direction, the slope area toward the exhaust port of This individual, applying a liberal amount of lubrication to the crankshaft assembly parts prior to installation into a 6-cylinder powerhead, probably wishes the . untt was from a 3-or 4-cylinder outboard, as covered in this manual. SERVICE ORIGINAL OCSIGN 3-1 9 HOLE Lower crankshaft oil seals. If one of the seals has holes, as shown, then that seal must be installed as the bottom one of the two. that piston. Continue working the pistons into the cylinder bores until the reed blocks make contact with the cylinder block. Align each reed block with the locating pin in the cylinder block, and then push the complete crankshaft assembly into final position in the block. 19-Check to be sure each piston ring has spring tension. This is accomplished by CAREFULLY pressing on each ring with a screwdriver extended through the intake ports. If spring tension cannot be felt (the spring fails to return to its original position)the ring was probably broken during the piston and crankshaft installation process. TAKE CARE not to burr the piston rings while checking for spring tension. 20-Apply a coating of Loctite Type "A" to the outer diameter of all the oil seals. The proper size mandrel from Bearing Removal and Installation Kit C-91-31229Al, must be used for seal installation. Press the seal into the upper end cap with the lip of the seal toward the INSIDE of the cylinder block. Clean away any excess Loctite. 21-Press the outer seal into the lower end cap with the lip of the seal toward the OUTSIDE of the cylinder block. Clean away any excess Loctite. the block and the intake side of the deflector toward the intake port. If a piston has been installed onto the rod improperly, the piston pin will have to be removed, the piston rotated 180 °, and the piston pin installed again. Now, lower the piston and crankshaft assembly into the cylinder block with one piston down. Work the "down" piston into the cylinder bore and at the same time, lower the crankshaft, reed block, and the other pistons downward. When the second piston reaches the cylinder bore in the cylinder block, work both pistons and the crankshaft assembly downward. When the third piston reaches the cylinder, work all three into the cylinder bores. Continue until each piston is worked into the cylinder bore. As a piston is worked into the cylinder bore, remove the ring compressor from · . . .\·· · ' SEAL Checking to be sure the drain restrictor is in place. 3-20 POWERHEAD 23-Place the 0-rings onto the end caps. Apply a coating of Multi-purpose Lubricant to the 0-rings and lips of the oil seals. With the original shims intact, temporarily install the upper and lower end caps onto the crankshaft and secure the crankshaft to the cylinder block with the end cap bolts. 00 NOT install the crankcase cover. 24-Determine the crankshaft end play in the following manner: With one hand, hold the crankshaft from bouncing back. With the other hand and a soft-headed mallet, tap the crankshaft toward the stud end of the cylinder block. Hold the crankshaft in this position and measure the distance between the inner face of the end cap and the top (first) counterweight of the crankshaft with a feeler gauge. This measurement should be approximately 0.050" ( 1.27mm). 25-Now, tap the crankshaft in the opposite direction, and again measure the distance between the inner face of the end cap and the top counterweight of the crankshaft. Subtract the first measurement from the second. The difference between the two measurements is the crankshaft end play. The end play should be 0.004 -0.012" (0.10 0.30mm). If the final end play measurement is not within this tolerance, adjust the end play by adding shim material to increase end play or removing shim material to decrease end play. INSTALLER SEAL ® 22-Press the inner oil seal into the lower end cap with the lip of the seal toward the OUTSIDE of the cylinder block. Continue pressing the seal into place until the seal surface is flush with the bottom of the bearing. Clean away any excess Loctite. Alternate Method 26-A more accurate method, and one recommended by the manufacturer, is to install a dial indicator at the upper end of the crankshaft, as shown. Now, move the crankshaft as far as possible in both directions and record the amount of movement. Remember, to insert an equal amount of shim material at both ends to ensure each throw will be aligned with the center of the cylinder. CRITICAL WORDS: The amount of shim material between the upper end cap and the cylinder block, and the amount of shim material between the lower end cap and cylinder block should be approximately the same. This is the ONLY way to ensure the crankpin throws are centered over the cylinder bores. After the end play adjustment has been satisfactorily completed, loosen the end cap to cylinder block bolts several turns. Slide the end caps away from the cylinder block to permit the crankcase cover to be installed. 27-Before mating the crankcase cover and the block, check to be sure: a-The mating surfaces are clean. NEVER use any kind of tool or abrasive material to clean the surfaces. Use only solvent and elbow grease. b-The crankshaft is properly seated. SERVICE ORIGINAL DESIGN 3-21 ® c-The rod caps have been correctly installed. d-The reed blocks are properly seated into the cylinder block. Use Loctite Primer "T" to clean the crankcase cover and cylinder block surfaces. ® 3-22 POWERHEAD ® Coat the mating surfaces of the crankcase cover and the cylinder block with a thin coating of Permatex 2C-12 Sealer, or equivalent. Apply the sealer sparingly, and TAKE CARE not to get any sealer near the bleed system holes. Position the crankcase cover in place on the cylinder block. Center the reed cage in the carburetor inlet. 28-Install and tighten the cover bolts to to a torque value of 180 in lb (20Nm). A torque wrench is essential to correctly assemble the powerhead. NEVER attempt to assemble a powerhead without a torque wrench. Attaching bolts MUST be tightened to the required torque value in three progressive stages, following the specified tightening sequence. Tighten all bolts to 1/3 the torque value, then repeat the sequence tightening to 2/3 the torque value. Finally, on the third and last sequence, tighten to the full torque value. Clean off any excess sealer from the crankcase cover and cylinder block. Install and tighten the end cap bolts to a torque value of 150 in lb (17Nm). 12 6 2 3 ® Insert the flywheel key into the crankshaft keyway, and then slide the flywheel into place. Now, rotate the crankshaft several turns and check to be sure it turns freely with no binding or "rough" spots. Blow compressed air through the bleed system to prevent any sealer that may have entered the bleed system, from blocking the system. Remove the flywheel and key. 29-Check to be sure the restrictors are in place in the drilled passages of the transfer ports. Install the transfer port cover gasket and cover. Tighten the attaching The firing order is embossed on the water cover plate for the powerheads covered in this manual. hardware to a torque value of 60 in lb (7Nm). Attaching bolts MUST be tightened to the required torque value in three progressive stages, following the specified ing sequence. Tighten all bolts to the torque value, then repeat the sequence tightening to 2/3 the torque value. Finally, on the third and last sequence, tighten to the full torque value. 30-Install the cylinder block cover gasket and cover. Tighten the attaching bolts in the sequence shown in the accompanying illustration, to a torque value of 70 in lb (5Nm) for all except the 4-cylinder 7 5hp and larger powerheads. These units carry a torque value of 85 in lb (6.2Nm). Attaching bolts MUST be tightened to the required torque value in three progressive stages, following the specified tightening sequence. Tighten all bolts to 1/3 the torque value, then repeat the sequence tightening to 2/3 the torque value. Finally, on the third and last sequence, tighten to the full torque value. 31-Apply a small amount of Anti-Corrosion Grease in the following areas to prevent corrosion damage: Onto each exhaust baffle gasket. Into each baffle. Onto all bolt threads. Install the exhaust baffle gasket, the baffle, the cover gasket and the exhaust cover. Tighten the cover bolts to a torque value of 200 in lb (23Nm). Attaching bolts MUST be tightened to the required torque value in three progressive stages, following the specified tighten- SERVICE ORIGINAL .:::£SIGN 3-23 POPPET I .B FFLE . SPR ING \ \\ ® ing sequence. Tighten all bolts to 1/3 the torque value, then repeat the sequence tightening to 2/3 the torque value. Finally, on the third and last sequence, tighten to the full torque value. 32-If the thermostat was removed, install the poppet valve, thermostat, and cover. Tighten the attaching screws alternately to a torque value of 160 in lb (18Nm). Position NEW gaskets onto the carburetor mounting studs. Install the carburetor assemblies onto the crankcase and tighten the nuts alternately to a torque value of 100 in lb (11 Nm). Coat each surface of the exhaust baffle gasket, the Always check the flywheel carefully to be sure baffle, the cover gasket, and the exhaust cover with particles of metal have not become stuck to the maganti- corrosion grease. nets. 3-24 POWERHEAD Install the starter, fuel pump, and the switch box. If a distributor is used, install the distributor onto the crankcase and secure it with the two bolts. Tighten the attaching hardware to a torque value of 70 in lb (8Nm). 33-If a trigger assembly is used, place the assembly over the crankshaft onto the block. If a timing belt is used, be sure to install the belt before the stator is installed. Install the stator. Apply a coating of "Blue" Loctite, product No. 21, or equivalent, to the stator attaching screws, and then install the screws and tighten them to a torque value of 60 in lb (7Nm). Insert the flywheel key in the crankshaft keyway. Check the inside rim of the flywheel to be sure metal particles are not stuck to the flywheel magnets. Check to be sure the inside taper of the flywheel and the taper on the crankshaft are clean of dirt or oil, to prevent the flywheel from "walking" FLYWHEEL HOLDER on the crankshaft during operation. Slide the flywheel down the crankshaft with the keyway in the flywheel aligned with the key on the crankshaft. Rotate the flywheel clockwise and check to be sure the flywheel does not contact any part of the magneto or the wiring. If a belt is used, work the flywheel pulley around the belt. Slide a flat washer onto the crankshaft, and then thread the flywheel nut onto the crankshaft. 34-Tighten the flywheel nut to the following torque value: 4-cyl. models 45, 50, 500, and 650 65 ft lb (88Nm)3-cyl. models 50, 60, 70, 650, and 700 85 ft lb ( 115Nm)4-cyl. models 75, 80, 800, and 850 100 ft lb ( 136Nm) SERVICE ORIGINAL DESIGN 3-25 35-If a distributor is used, install the belt according to the procedures and specifications outlined in Chapter 6. After the belt is properly in place, per Chapter 6, install the pulley cover and attaching nut. POWERHEAD INSTALLATION 36-Check to be sure old gasket material has been removed from the exhaust housing extension plate and the powerhead. These two mating surfaces MUST be clean. Position a NEW gasket in place. 37-Thread a lifting eye onto the end of the crankshaft as far as it will go. Use a suitable hoist and lower the power head onto the exhaust housing plate with the studs on the powerhead aligned with the holes in the exhaust housing. Use care to prevent the studs from damaging the gasket. As the powerhead is slowly lowered, it will probably be necessary to rotate the flywheel slightly to allow the splines of the driveshaft to index with the crankshaft. 38-Thread the nuts onto the powerhead studs. Tighten the nuts alternately to the following torque value: 3-and 4-cyl. models 45, 50, 60, 70, 500, 700 and 650 --3-cyl. only 15 ft lb (20Nm) 4-cyl. models 650 30 ft lb (40Nm) 4-cyl. models 75, 80, 800 and 850 45 ft lb (60Nm) The nuts MUST be tightened to the required torque value in three progressive stages. Tighten all bolts to 1/3 the torque value, then repeat the sequence tightening to 2/3 the torque value. Finally, on the third and last sequence, tighten to the full torque value. Remove the lifting eye from the crankshaft. 39-Install the rear cowl bracket. Connect the water hose to the tattle-tale on the bracket. Connect the water hose to the exhaust extension plate connection. Connect the fuel line to the fuel pump. Connect the shift link. Install and tighten the nut to the shift bracket. 40-Connect the electrical wires to their proper terminals. Use the notes or photographs taken prior to disassembly as a guide. Refer to the wiring diagram in the Appendix for further assistance. Cover all connections with liquid Neoprene. Install all of the sta-straps to the wiring and fuel lines. Place the wire harness in its original position prior to disassembly. 41-Install the spark plugs and tighten them to a torque value of 17 ft lb (23Nm). 3-26 POWERHEAD Connect the high-tension leads to the proper spark plugs. 42-Mount the engine in a test tank. Connect the fuel lines. Start the engine and follow the break-in procedures given after the caution. CAUTION Water must circulate through the lower unit to the powerhead anytime the powerhead is operating to prevent damage to the water pump in the lowe.-unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump impeller. Break-in Procedures As soon as the engine starts, CHECK to be sure the water pump is operating. If the water pump is operating, a water mist will be discharged from the exhaust relief holes at the rear of the drive shaft housing. During the first 10 hours of operation, DO NOT operate the engine at full throttle (except for VERY short periods). Perform the break-in as follows: a-Operate at 1/2 throttle, approximately 2500 to 3500 rpm, for 2 hours. b-Operate at any speed after 2 hours BUT NOT at sustained full throttle until another 8 hours of operation. c-Mix gasoline and oil during the breakin period, total of 10 hours, at a ratio of 25:1. d-While the engine is operating during the initial period, check the fuel, exhaust, and water systems for leaks. e-Refer to Chapter 6 for synchronizing procedures. After the test period, disconnect the fuel line. Remove the engine from the test tank. Install the engine cowl. 3-3 POWERHEAD SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL This Section describes the complete service of Mercury redesigned 3-, and 4--cylinder powerheads, as follows: 50hp 3-cyl. 1991 & On 60hp 3-cyl. 1991 & On SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-27 be followed in the sequence given. If complete disassembly is not required, begin the assembling sequence at that point, after following the Cleaning and Inspecting procedures for the items disassembled. Cleaning and Inspecting procedures are given at the end of the chapter beginning on Page 3-66. Complete disassembly of the powerhead is usually not necessary to perform some 70hp 3-cyl. 1987-1989 tasks, such as one or more of the following: 3-cyl. 1990 & On 80hp 3-cyl. 1987-1989 90hp 3-cyl. 1987 &0n lOOhp 4--cyl. 1988 & On 11 5hp 4--cyl. 1989 &0n ADVICE Before commencing any work on the powerhead, an understanding of two-cycle engine operation wlll be most helpful. Therefore, it would be well worth the time to study the principles of two-cycle engines, as outlined briefly in Section 3-1 of this chapter. A Polaroid, or equivalent instanttype camera is an extremely useful item, providing the means to accurately record the arrangement of parts and wire connections BEFORE the disassembly work begins. Such a record is most valuable during the assembly work. In order to obtain the maximum results from the overhaul work, the instructions outlined in this section for removal, disassembly, assembling and installation should a-To inspect the cylinder walls and pistons. b-Minor repairs on supporting components. Example, the ignition system, carburetors, and the reed blocks. c-Operational check of the thermostat and temperature sender. POWERHEAD REMOVAL The following procedures are accompanied by a series of captioned illustrations rather than sequential steps. Disconnect the engine battery cables from the battery terminals. Disconnect the engine fuel line from the fuel tank. Remove the front engine cowling cover. Remove the port and starboard halves of the engine cowling. Separate the electrical extension harness connectors. Disconnect the remote control cables from the powerhead. STOP, and carefully observe the wiring and hose connections before proceeding. Because there are so many different powerheads and the arrangement is slightly different on each, it is not possible to illustrate Photograph of a "classroom" type cutaway redesigned larger bore block used on some 3-and 4-cylinder powerheads since 1988. The block and head are cast in Take time to study and any one piece. Only the cylinder and exhaust covers are nected from the ignition plate and surrounding electriremovable to gain access to the water jacket cal components. The tags will help ensure the leads are surrounding the cylinders. reconnected to the proper terminals. 3-28 POWERHEAD each and every one. Even if they were shown, the reader would not be able to identify the powerhead being serviced. Therefore, TAKE TIME to make notes and tag the wire leads and hoses. You may elect to follow the practice of many professional mechanics by taking a series of photographs of the powerhead, one from the top, and a couple from the sides showing the wiring and arrangement of parts. 50hp and 60hp Powerheads Only Disconnect both leads from the battery. Disconnect the first Black cable from the lower terminal on the cranking motor. Disconnect the second large Black cable from the upper terminal on the cranking motor. Remove the two bolts securing the cranking motor bracket, the third large Black cable and the oil injection tank to the powerhead. Remove the bracket and cranking motor from the powerhead. Disconnect the high tension leads from the spark plugs. ALWAYS use a pulling and twisting motion as a precaution against damaging the connection. Remove the spark plugs. BO BLACK POWERHEAD GROUND ING CABLE I BLACK CABLE FROM NEGAT IVE BATTERY TERM INAL I BLACK CABLE FROM SOLENO ID Identification of the three Black cables connected to the cranking motor on a 5Dhp or 60hp powerhead since 1991. One of the bracket securing bolts also secures the oil tank to the powerhead. Remove the six bolts securing the cover to the electrical box. The ignition switchbox, ignition coil, fuse, starter solenoid, and rectifier/regulator are all mounted inside the electrical box. All these electrical components will be removed as an assembly when the box is removed. Disconnect the White/Black, Purple, Brown, and White leads between the electrical box and the stator and trigger assembly. Next, disconnect the wiring harness connector. Locate the low oil warning module secured to the inside of the lower powerhead cover and disconnect the following leads: Tan, Purple, two Light Blue leads and a Black ground eyelet lead. Remove the two bolts securing the module to the cover and remove the module. Remove the securing hardware and lift out the electrical box with all electrical components undisturbed. The three carburetors, air box with cover, linkage and fuel lines are removed from the powerhead as an assembly. Disconnect the Blue/White, Green/White, and Red/Black leads at the trim switch located on the side of the lower powerhead cover. Remove the four screws securing the cover to the air box. Remove the six long bolts securing the three carburetors to the intake manifold. The carburetors are held together as an assembly by the two forward straps, throttle and choke linkage and fuel lines. Disconnect the fuel supply line and the primer line, if equipped. Disconnect the fuel line between the enrichener valve and the fitting on the fuel bowl of the top carburetor, and the line between the valve and the fitting at the base of the oil pump. Lift off all three carburetors, as an assembly, with linkage and fuel lines between the carburetors still intact. Disconnect the two Light Blue leads from the low oil sensor, located at the base of the oil tank, at their quick disconnect fittings. If the oil tank contains oil, make arrangements to plug the oil line once it is pulled free of the fitting, to prevent oil from spilling into the lower powerhead cover. Snip the tie wrap from the oil supply line, from the tank, at the oil injection pump. Ease the line free of the fitting on the pump and lift out the oil tank. Disconnect the oil outlet line between the pump and the 2 psi check valve next to the fuel pump. Remove the two attaching bolts and remove the oil pump from the power head. Snip the tie wraps around the inlet, outlet, and pulse lines at the fuel pump. Remove the two Phillips head screws securing the pump to the powerhead. Lift off the pum p. Remove the top bolt securing the barrel retainer over the control cable barrels. Swing the retainer down to clear both barrels. Remove the locknuts and washers securing the throttle and shift cable ends to the throttle lever and shift actuator stud. Slide the cables and barrels away from the barrel receptacles cast into the block and lift both cables clear. Make a final check to make sure no other leads or attachments will impede the removal of the powerhead. Remove the four bolts securing the lower powerhead cover to the intermediate housing, and remove the cover. SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-29 Next, remove the six bolts securing the powerhead to the intermediate housing. Remove the three wing nuts securing the plastic flywheel cover to the powerhead. Remove the plaStic cap from the end of the crankshaft. Thread a lifting eye onto the end of the crankshaft as far as it will go. Using a sui table hoist, lift the power head assembly clear of the intermediate housing. Remove all traces of the base gasket. Mount the powerhead onto some type of stand, to facilitate easy access to all parts. NEVER attempt to mount the powerhead in a stand secured in a vise. Such an attempt will only lead to damage of the powerhead and possible personal injury. Remove the lifting eye from the crankshaft. Fuel system and control cable components on the portside of a 60hp powerhead. 70hp and Larger Powerheads Snip the Sta-strap from the tattle-tale hose at the aft cowl support bracket. Remove the bolts securing the bracket to the powerhead. Remove the bolts securing the ignition plate cover to the powerhead. Disconnect the large Black lead from the cranking motor and the large Red lead from the cranking motor solenoid. Unplug the power trim fuse mounted on the cranking motor. Loosen, but do NOT remove the two Phillips head screws on the clamp securing the main harness to the powerhead. Slide the harness from its retaining clamp. Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle lever. Disconnect the shift cable and the shift arm from the shift bracket. Remove the two bolts and the bracket from the powerhead. Remove a total of eight bolts securing the powerhead to the intermediate housing. Three nuts are located on each side of the powerhead and two more are located on the aft side. Fuel system and throttle control components on the portside of a 7Ohp powerhead and larger. Disconnect the oil inlet hose from the oil pump and plug the line quickly to prevent oil from draining from the oil reservoir. Re move the attaching hardware and lift the reservoir free of the powerhead. Remove the three wing nuts securing the plastic flywheel cover to the powerhead. Remove the plastic cap from the end of the crankshaft. Thread a lifting eye on the end of the crankshaft as far as it will go. Using a suitable hoist, lift the powerhead assembly clear of the intermediate housing. Remove all traces of the base gasket. Disconnect the high tension leads from the spark plugs. ALWAYS use a pulling and twisting motion as a precaution against damaging the connection. Remove the spark plugs. Mount the powerhead onto some type of stand, to facilitate easy access to all parts. NEVER attempt to mount the powerhead in a stand secured in a vise. Such an attempt will only lead to damage of the powerhead and possible personal injury. Remove the lifting eye from the crankshaft. Disconnect the Tan and Black leads from the oil level warning horn at the terminal block on the ignition plate. If the power head is also equipped with an oil warning module, disconnect the Purple and Light Blue leads at their quick disconnect fittings. Disconnect the Black lead from the temper ature sensor just below the thermostat. Disconnect the large Yellow cable from the solenoid to the cranking motor. Remove the four bolts securing the cranking motor to the powerhead and lift the­motor free. Remove the two cowl support bracket bolts from the top of the air box and the two bottom cowl support bracket bolts from the forward end of the powerhead. Remove the bolt at the fuel joint support and remove the bottom cowling support bracket. Remove the Phillips head screws securing the air box cover and remove the cover. Remove the nuts and washers securing the air box to the powerhead, and then remove the air box. Disconnect the fuel supply line from the fuel filter. Disconnect the inlet hose for the fuel enrichener valve at the "T" fitting between the No. 1 and No. 2 carburetors. SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-31 On 4--cylinder powerheads, disconnect the accelerator pump inlet hose from the ''P' fitting between No. 1 and No. 2 carburetors. Disconnect the hoses from the accelerator pump to the No. 3 and No. cylinder check valve fittings. Remove the bolts securing the pump to the block and lift the pump clear. Snip the Sta-strap from the vapor return hose and remove the hose from the fitting next to the fuel pump. All Powerheads Pry the oil pump link rod from the ball joint on the No. 2 carburetor throttle lever. The carburetors are now only held to gether with the throttle tie bar. Slide the entire carburetor assembly off the mounting studs. Disconnect the throttle control link rod between the throttle cam and the throttle lever. Remove the two hoses from the en richener valve at their fittings on the intake manifold. Disconnect the Black and Yel low/Black leads from the valve and remove the two securing bolts. Lift the valve, with hoses still attached free from the power head. Hold the flywheel from turning with a flywheel strap or with a Flywheel Holder, C-91-5234-4-. Remove the 5/16" flywheel nut and washer. Install a crankshaft Protector Cap, C91- 24-161, onto the end of the crankshaft. Install Flywheel Puller, C-91-73687Al into the flywheel. These two items are necessary and may be obtained from the local dealer. BAD NEWS The crankshaft may very likely be damaged if the protector cap is not used between the crankshaft and the flywheel puller. NEVER attempt to use a puller which pulls on the outside edge of the flywheel, or the flywheel may be damaged. NEVER hammer on the end of the center bolt of the puller, because such action will surely cause damage either to the crankshaft, or the bearings, or both. NEVER use heat as an aid to removing the flywheel. Applying heat may actually seize the flywheel to the crankshaft. Take up on the puller until the flywheel breaks loose from the crankshaft. Remove the flywheel key from the crankshaft. Disconnect the stator wires and trigger wires from the terminals of the switch boxes. Remove the stator assembly from the powerhead. The stator assembly attaching bolts have been secured in place with Loctite, therefore, they will not back out easily. Remove the locknut securing the trigger plate link rod to the upper end of the vertical throttle lever. Now, pull the link rod swivel clear of the throttle lever. Remove the trigger and stator plate assembly from the upper end cap. Remove the three bolts securing the ignition plate to the cylinder block. Lift the ignition plate, together with the electrical components, clear of the cylinder block. Remove the locknut, and then the throttle cam and bushings from the reed block housing stud. Remove the pivot bolt, and then lift the vertical throttle lever from the cylinder block. REMEMBER, a flat washer is installed between the vertical throttle lever and the cylinder block. Make every effort not to disturb the length of the oil injection link rod, when removing the rod from the carburetor and oil pump lever ball joints. The fuel pump mounting bolts also hold various layers of the pump together. Hold the pump together firmly when removing these bolts. Remove the attaching bolts securing the fuel pump assembly to the reed block housing. TAKE CARE not to separate the fuel pump components, and lift the fuel pump assembly from the reed block housing. Insert two of the attaching bolts back through the fuel pump assembly, and then thread a 10-32 nut onto each bolt to prevent the fuel pump parts from separating during the remainder of the powerhead disassembly work. Disconnect the outlet hose from the oil pump. Plug the end of the hose to prevent foreign matter from entering. Remove the two retaining bolts from the oil pump. Lift the oil pump clear of the powerhead. Remove the 0-ring from around the coupler. Reach into the block with a pair of needle nose pliers and withdraw the coupler. TAKE CARE not to lose the sm all plug and the magnet from the recess in the coupler. Reach in again with the needle nose pliers, and grasp the oil pump shaft. Pull and rotate the shaft slightly CLOCKWISE to withdraw the shaft. Disconnect the bleed hose from the No. 1 cylinder fitting and the lower end cap fitting. CYLINDER BLOCK DISASSEMBLY 1-Remove the bolts securing the reed housing cover and reed housing to the powerhead. 2-Insert a flat blade screwdriver behind Removing the oil pump coupler from the block. SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-33 the pry area on the starboard side of the block and pry the cover and housing free. Remove and discard the gasket on each . side of the reed housing. GOOD WORDS It is not necessary to disassemble the reed assemblies in order to inspect them. If inspection indicates replacement of a reed assembly component is required, see the Cleaning and Inspecting portion of this chapter, beginning on Page 3-66. 3-Remove the screw on the heat sensor retaining bracket. Insert a small flat blade screwdriver between the sensor and the block and pry the sensor from the sealing grommet. 4-Remove the bolts securing the ther ..ostat housing to the block. If the housing IS stuck to the powerhead, tap it lightly with a soft head mallet to jar it free. Remove the spring • .5-Lift out the thermostat and at the same time note the direction the thermostat faces, as an assist in later installation. Remove and discard the thermostat rubber sealing ring. The spring should always face the powerhead. If the thermostat was not installed properly, serious heating problems may have developed in the powerhead. If NO thermostat is found under the housing, purchase and install a new thermostat. Scrape all traces of gasket material from both sealing surfaces to prevent a water leak at this location. Loosen, but do NOT remove the Phillips head screw on the water pressure relief (poppet) valve. Pull the valve assembly from the block. Water Pressure Relief Valve Removal FIRST, THESE WORDS When water pressure in the cooling system reaches a predetermined figure, a pressure relief valve, also referred to as a "poppet valve" is lifted off its seat. While the valve is off its seat, additional cooling water is permitted to bypass the thermostat and circulate through the water jacket. If the prE>ssure relief valve is stuck shut due to scale, corrosion, etc., the powerhead will overheat at high rpm. This is a VERY common problem on older powerheads, especially units operated in salt water. Procedures to free a stuck relief valve are drastic, but worth the effort. Penetrating oil, heat, brute force, any method is acceptable to free a stuck valve. Once a valve is in this condition it must be replaced. Therefore, if removal c..lls for destroying it with a chisel --so be 1t. The valve bore must be cleaned frE'e of any deposits to allow free flow of coolant, essenti al to powerhead longevity. 70hp and Larger Powerheads 6-NotE' the locations of the clips under two of the cylinder cover retaining bolts, as an assist in later installation. Remove the' bolts from the cylinder cover. Special pry areas are provided at the top and bottom of the cover to assist in cover removal. Scrape all traces of gasket material from both sealing surfaces to prevent a water lE>ak at this location. SPECIAL WORDS This design block has no head. The combustion chambers of the cylinders are an integral part of the block. Only the cylinder cover is removable to provide access to the water jacket for cleaning and inspecting purposes. Exhaust Cover Removal 7-Remove the bolts securing the exhaust cover to the powerhead. 8-Remove the exhaust cover, gasket, inner plate, and another gasket. Inspect the inner plate for small pin holes in areas of corrosion. Water in a cylinder could be caused by a defective cover or gasket. SPECIAL WORDS ON EXHAUST COVERS The exhaust cover is one of the most neglected items on any outboard powerhead. Seldom are they checked and serviced. Many times a powerhead may be overhauled and returned to service without the exhaust cover ever having been removed. One reason the exhaust cover is not removed is because the attaching bolts usually become corroded in place. This means the bolts are very difficult to remove, but the work should be done. Heat applied to the bolt head and around the exhaust cover will help in removal. However, some bolts may still be broken. If the bolt is broken it the item might SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-35 CHECK AND HOLDER (50HP & 60HP ONLY must be drilled out and the hole tapped with new threads. An exhaust cover is installed over the exhaust ports to allow the exhaust to leave powerhead and be transferred to the exhaust housing. If the cover was the only over the exhaust ports, they would become so hot from the exhaust gases they cause a fire or a person would be severely burned if they came in contact with the cover. Therefore, an inner plate is installed to help dissipate the exhaust heat. Two gaskets are installed --one on either side of the inner plate. Water is channeled to circulate between the exhaust cover and the inner plate. This circulating water cools the exhaust cover and prevents it from becoming a hazard. A thorough cleaning of the inner plate behind the exhaust covers should be performed during a major engine overhaul. If the integrity of the exhaust cover assembly is in doubt, replace the inner plate. All Models 9-Remove the three bolts from the lower end cap, and then remove the end cap. Discard the 0-ring around the cap. Inspect the condition of the oil seal. If the seal is no longer fit for service, pry the seal out with a screwdriver. Crankcase Removal 10-Lay the powerhead on the work surface with the crankcase cover facing UP. Remove the crankcase bolts. Two different size bolts are used. Larger bolts are used on the two inner rows and smaller bolts are used on the outer edges of the crankcase. If working on a 50hp or 60hp powerhead, remove the two check valves and holders from the locations identified in the illustration below. 3-36 POWERHEAD 11-Tap on the bottom side of the crankshaft with a soft head mallet, alternately at both ends. The sound of the mallet on the crankshaft will change. A muffled hollow sound should be heard when the cover breaks loose from the crankcase. If this sound is not heard, check to be sure all bolts have been removed. NEVER pry between the cover and the crankcase or the cover will surely be distorted. If the cover becomes distorted, it will fail to make a proper seal following installation. Such a condition would damage both crankcase halves and render both unfit for further service --an expensive replacement. Once the crankshaft has been tapped, as described, and the proper sound heard, the cover will be jarred loose and may be removed. Separate the crankcase from the block. Take care not to lose the single dowel pin. CAREFULLY remove all traces of sealant from the mating surface between the crankcase and the block without marring the surface, which MUST form an airtight seal. Crankshaft and Connecting Rod Removal The crankshaft assembly may now be lifted clear of the powerhead and the work completed on the bench, or the components may be removed one by one from the block. WORDS FROM EXPERIENCE CLEANLINESS is the password, when handling roller bearings. Take care to prevent any dirt, lint or other contaminents from getting onto the bearings or in the cages. If the bearings are to be used again, store them in a numbered container to ensure they will be installed with the same rod and cap from which they were removed. NEVER intermix roller bearings from one rod to another. NEVER intermix used roller bearings with new bearings. If just one bearing is unfit for further service, the entire set MUST be replaced. New bearings should be installed in the connecting rods, even though they may appear to be in serviceable condition. New bearings will ensure lasting service after the overhaul work is completed. If it is necessary to install the used bearings, keep them separate and identified to ENSURE they will be installed onto the same crankpin The crankshaft assembly may be lifted clear of the powerhead, as shown, and the remainder of the work completed on the bench, or the crankshaft components may be removed one-by-one from the block. throw and with the same connecting rod from which they were removed. 12-TAKE TIME to mark the cylinder number on both halves of the connecting rod caps. This mark should be made with a marker, whiteout, paint, or any substance which will adhere to a metal surface. UNDER NO Cm.CUMST ANCES should the mark be a series of notches, gouges, or even scribed. Such a mark can cause "stress risers", and under heavy powerhead load can cause parts to crack and even fail. SPECIAL WORDS The connecting rods and caps are a matched set and MUST be kept together, not only as a pair, but also in the direction of installation. 13-Obtain a 12 point socket the same size as the rod bolts. Loosen each bolt just a little, alternately, and evenly. This procedure will prevent one bolt from being completely removed while the other is still tightened to its recommended torque value. Such action would very likely warp the cap. ADVICE New connecting rod bearings should be installed around the crankshaft journals, even though the bearings may appear to be in serviceable condition. New bearings will ensure lasting service after the overhaul work is completed. However, if it is necessary to install the used bearings and bearing cages, keep them separate and identified to ENSURE they will be installed in the same location from which they were removed. , 12 PO INT SOCKET SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-37 14-Remove the bolts as described in the previous paragraph, and then CAREFULLY remove the rod cap. Remove the needle bearings and cages from around the crankshaft. Count the needle bearings and insert them into a separate container --one container for each rod. Label the container clearly to ensure the bearings will be installed with the proper rod at the crankshaft journal from which they were removed. Lift the crankshaft from the block. The crankshaft should have been jarred loose when the crankcase cover was removed. SPECIAL CENTER MAIN BEARING WORDS When the crankshaft is removed, observe closely how the center main bearings have a hole in the outside circumference. The bearings are held in place by a locating pin indexing in the hole in the bearing. The purpose of this arrangement is to prevent the bearing shell from rotating. Close inspection will reveal the hole to be off center. If the bearing is to be removed from the crankshaft, make a critical identification mark to ensure the bearing is installed back into the same position from which it was removed. Only in this manner can the pin be indexed into the hole. Piston Removal 1.5-Pull each piston and connecting rod out from the crankshaft end of the block. If water has been allowed to enter the cylinder, the piston may be "frozen" in the bore. Inject penetratating oil through the exhaust ports and allow the oil to "work" for a short time, before making another attempt to remove the piston. CRITICAL WORDS Once the piston is out of the block, immediately attach the proper rod cap to the rod, matching ridge to ridge, and hold it in place with the rod bolts. The few minutes involved in securing the cap with the rod will ensure the matched cap remains with its mating rod during the cleaning and assembling work. Make an identifying mark on the outside edge of each rod "I" beam and a matching mark on the inside of each piston skirt. Th.. identification mark rnust match the cylinder from which the piston and rod were removed. This mark should be made with a marker, whiteout, paint or any substance which will adhere to a metal surface. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should the mark be a series of notches, gouges, or even scribed. Such marks could be considered "damage" and cause "stress risers". Under heavy powerhead load a "stress riser" could cause parts to crack and even fail. Crankshaft Disassembling ADVICE New main bearings should be installed, even though they may appear to be in serviceable condition. New bearings will ensure lasting service after the overhaul work is completed. If it is necessary to install the used bearings, keep the bearings, circlips, bearing shells, and crankshaft sealing rings separate and identified to ENSURE they will be installed in the same location from which they were removed. 16-Remove the large crankshaft circlip from around each set of main bearings by SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-39 gently spreading each ring enough to ease it over the top of the main bearing shells. Take care not to scratch the highly polished bearing surface as each ring is removed. Remove all the rings in a similar manner. These rings are EXTREMELY brittle and MUST be handled with care if they are intended for further service. 17-Remove the two halves of the bearing race and the roller bearings from the crankshaft. The bearing race halves are a matched set and MUST be kept together. 18-Remove the two large sealing rings from around each set of main bearings by gently spreading each ring enough to ease it over the crankshaft surface. Take care not to scratch the highly polished bearing surface as each ring is removed. Remove all the rings in a similar manner. These rings are EXTREMELY brittle and MUST be handled with care if they are intended for further service. 19-Slide the upper main roller bearing free of the crankshaft. 20-Inspect the condition of the oil seal housed within the bearing. If the seal is no longer fit for service, pry the seal out with a screwdriver. Remove and discard the 0ring around the bearing. 21-Remove the Allen screw from the oil pump drive gear. Extract the metal barrel from the gear. CAREFULLY spread the two ends of the gear apart enough to clear the crankshaft journal. 00 NOT spread the gear any more than absolutely necessary. ® SAFETY WORDS 22-Inspect the crankshaft ball bearing installed on the lower end of the crankshaft as outlined in the Cleaning and Inspecting section at the end of this chapter. DO NOT remove the lower crankshaft ball bearing unless it is unfit for service and it is to be replaced. 23-If the bearing is to be replaced, remove the retaining ring with a suitable pair of expanding type snap ring pliers. 24-Install Universal Puller Plate, C-9137241, between the crankshaft ball bearing and the crankshaft counterweight. Position the crankshaft assembly in an arbor press. The crankshaft will be supported by the puller plate. Place a metal pia te over the end of the crankshaft, and then press the crankshaft out of the bearing. TAKE CARE to prevent the crankshaft from falling to the floor and being damaged when it clears 'UNIVERSAL PLATE PULLER WEAR eye protection glasses while removing the piston pin lockrings, because the lockring is made of spring steel and may slip out of the pliers or pop out of the groove with considerable force. 2.5-Remove the two G-type lockrings using a pair of needle-nose pliers. A lockring tool, C-91-5252 A 1, may be used to remove the lockring. A third alternative, is to use a punch to pop the ring out. If a punch is used TAKE CARE not to damage the piston. DISCARD the lockrings, because they should not be used a second time. the bearing. SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-41 26-Heat the piston dome to approx ° imately 190 by submerging the piston in hot water, or by heating it with a heat lamp. Three tools are required to remove the piston pin from a piston without damage to the piston, the pin, or the rod: An arbor press, a Piston Support Block, C-91-7700.., and a Piston Pin Tool, C-91-74607 A2. Position the piston and rod assembly in place on the support block. The piston may be placed on the block with either hole facing up. Use the piston pin tool and the arbor press to press the piston pin down and free of the piston. 27-If the connecting rod is to be used again, save the needle bearings, 29 by count, on each piston end of the rod and the two locating washers. CLEANLINESS is the password, when handling needle bearings. Take extra care to prevent any dirt, lint, or other contamination from getting onto the bearings or in the cages. If the bearings are to be used again, store them in a numbered container to ensure they will be installed with the same rod and rod cap from which they were removed. NEVER intermix roller bearings from one rod to another. NEVER intermix used roller bearings with new bearings. If just one bearing is unfit for service, the entire set MUST be replaced. Handle the piston with care, because the skirt can be PI STON PIN easily bent out-of-round if it is handled roughly. Piston Disassembling 28-Remove and DISCARD the rings, as each piston and rod assembly is removed. Use a Piston Ring Expander, C-91-24697, to remove the rings. If this special tool is not available, remove them with your hands. After the rings have been removed from all pistons, carefully inspect each piston and rod assembly according to the procedures outlined in the Cleaning and Inspecting section at the end of this chapter. CLEANING AND INSPECTING See the last portion of this chapter, Section 3-4, for detailed, comprehensive procedures to clean and inspect all components of the powerhead. 3-42 POWERHEAD GASKET INNER COVER EXHAUST COVER Exploded drawing of the redesigned, large bore 3-cylinder block, Models 70hp and larger, with major parts identified. SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-43 OIL PUHP DR IVE LOVER ROLLER8 HAIN Qor -. .... BEARI NGS BEARING Exploded drawing of the redesigned, large bore 3-c..inder, Models 70hp and larger, crankshaft assembly, with major parts identified. WATER PRESSURE GASKET BRACKET RELI EF VALVE ASSEMBLY GASKET REED BLOCK ASSEMBLY INTAKE MAN IFOLD BRACKET Exploded drawing of the redesigned, mid-sized bore 3-cylinder block, Models 50hp and 60hp, with major parts identified. SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-45 RING C-LOCKR ING PI STON ()/PIN C-LOCKR ING.. CONNECTING ROD OIL ROD BEAR ING .. I WOODRUFF KEY LOWER MA IN BEAR ING ROD CAP ROLLER BEAR ING ASSEMBLY Exploded drawing of the redesigned, mid-sized bore 3-cylinder, Models 50hp and 60hp, crankshaft assembly, with major parts identified. 3-48 POWERHEAD BALL ·BEAR ING ASSEMBLING FIRST, THESE WORDS Be sure all parts to be reused have been carefully cleaned and thoroughly inspected. Parts not properly cleaned, or parts not suitable for service can damage a good powerhead within a few minutes after starting the engine. NEW gaskets MUST always be used during an overhaul. A torque wrench is essential to correctly assemble the powerhead. NEVER attempt to assemble a powerhead without a torque wrench. Attaching bolts for covers MUST be tightened to the required torque value in three progressive stages, following the specified tightening sequence. On the first stage, tighten to 1/3 the torque value. On the second stage, tighten to 2/3 the total torque value. Finally, on the third and last stage, tighten to the full torque value. Crankshaft Assembling 1-If the ball bearing on the driveshaft end of the crankshaft was removed, install the bearing as follows: Support the crankshaft assembly in a press with the support between the counterweights and directly under the lower crankshaft end. Press the lower ball bearing onto the crankshaft, using a piece of tubing as a mandrel. BE SUR.. the tubing is the proper size so the force IS only applied onto the inner race of the . . bearing. Continue to press the bea..mg mto place until it is firmly seated agamst the counterweight. Remove the crankshaft assembly from the press. Using a press is the preferred method as a precaution against . damaging the bearing, however, an mstaller and hammer may be used, as shown. 2-Use a pair of expanding type snap ring pliers and install the retaining ring to secure the lower crankshaft ball bearing in place. 3-Spread the ends of a crankshaft sealing ring and install it around the crankshaft main bearing. TAKE CARE not to scratch the highly polished bearing surfac... Install . . two rings at each location and position their . 0 c . end gaps at 180 to each other. ontmue, until all rings are in place. Lubricate the crankshaft sealing rings with light weight oil. SPECIAL WORDS The following paragraphs decribe procedures to install a large number of small SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-49 roller bearings around a bearing surface. In order for the installed bearings to stay "put" apply a coating of Quicksilver Needle Bearing Assembly Lubricant C-92-42649A-l and NO other type "goopus". Any lubricant applied on the crankshaft bearing surface MUST be soluble in gasoline. Unfortunatetly, most lubricants are not. 4-Apply a liberal coat of Quicksilver Needle Bearing Assembly Lubricant to the crankshaft journal to hold the roller bearings in place. Hold a bearing shell up against the crankshaft sealing ring, with the groove for the circlip facing toward the top (tapered) end of the crankshaft. Insert the bearings around the two crankshaft grooves, pushing them in between the bearing shell and the crankshaft. 5-Continue installing the roller bearings around the crankshaft until a total of 32 -two sets of 16 --are in place. Install the other matching bearing half over the half already in place, with the groove for the circlip facing toward the top (tapered) end of the crankshaft. Check to be sure the circlip groove is matched on the two bearing shell halves. 6-Secure the bearing halves in place with the circlip. Lubricate the crankshaft main roller bearings by injecting lightweight oil through one of the holes in the bearing race. 7-Soak the oil pump drive gear in hot water for approximately four minutes, until it is somewhat pliable. Separate the two ends of the gear and install the gear over the crankshaft journal next to the main bearing, with the lip facing toward the upper (tapered) end of the crankshaft. Slide the gear lip into the groove in the crankshaft. The locating pin MUST index into the crankshaft slot. 3-50 POWERHEAD Insert the metal barrel into the center hole of the gear and align the threaded hole with the hole for the screw in the gear. Thread the screw into the hole in the gear teeth and into the metal barrel. Tighten the screw to 8 in lb (. 9Nm). The two ends of the gear should now be tightly together and the gear mismatch at the joint line must not exceed .030" (.76mm). Excess mismatch will result in premature gear failure. Excess mismatch may be caused by the gear lip not being properly seated in the crankshaft groove. 8-If the upper main bearing oil seal was removed in Step 20 of disassembling, pack the lip of a new oil seal with 2-4-C Quicksilver Marine Lubricant C-92-90018A12 and install the seal into the top (closest to the groove) end of the bearing with the lip facing DOWN. Apply the same lubricant to a new 0-ring and install the 0-ring into the bearing groove. 9-Slide the upper main bearing over the top of the crankshaft with the oil seal facing UP --toward the threads of the crankshaft. UPPER HAIN BEARING ... SPECIAL WORDS ON PISTON RINGS All powerheads covered in this section, with the new redesigned in-line block, are equipped with 2-ring pistons. Both rings are tapered on the top side and rectangular on the under side, which designates them as semi-keystone rings. The only critical part of the installation procedure is to be sure the "T" on the side of each ring is facingUPWARD, TOWARD the piston crown. Installation procedures are the same as for other standard pistons. Oversize Pistons and Rings: All oversize pistons for these powerheads are manufactured to use two semikeystone rings. Again, the only critical procedure during installation is to be sure the "T" on the side of the ring faces TOWARD the piston crown. GOOD WORDS OBSERVE the pin in each ring groove of the piston. The ends of the ring M..ST straddle this pin. The pin prevents the rmg from rotating while the powerhead is operating. This fact is the direct opposite of a four-cycle engine where the ring must ro- OIL SEAL SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-51 tate. In a two-cycle engine, if the ring is permitted to rotate, at one point, the opening between the ring ends would align with either the intake or exhaust port in the cylinder. At that time, the ring would expand slightly, catch on the edge of the port, and BREAK. Therefore, when checking the condition of the piston, ALWAYS check the pin in each groove to be sure it is tight. If one pin is the least bit loose, the piston MUST be replaced, without question. Never attempt to replace the pin, it is NEVER successful. 10-Use a ring expander and install the ring set identified for the No. 1 piston and cylinder onto the piston. Adjust the ring expander in small increments until the ring will just barely fit over the top of the piston. If the expander is adjusted to open the ring more than necessary, the ring may break. Work SLOWLY, and check each ring to be sure it is installed properly with the "T" on the side of the ring facing the top of the piston. After the rings are in place, attempt to rotate the ring in its groove. The attempt MUST FAIL. If the ring is free to rotate, the locating pin is not performing its function and the piston must be replaced. Piston/Rod Assembling 11-Lay a clean towel on the work surface. Lay out the 29 piston pin needle bearings in a line. NEVER intermix needle bearings from one piston assembly with those from another piston. NEVER intermix used needle bearings with new bearings. If just one bearing is unfit for service or is lost, the entire set MUST be replaced. Lay down a bead of Quicksilver Needle Bearing Assembly Lubricant C-92-42649A-1 onto the sleeve portion of Piston Pin Tool C-9 174607 AI. Always handle pistons with great care because the skirt can be bent out of round if the piston is handled roughly. Place the lower locating washer onto the piston pin tool with the shoulder on the washer toward the bearings. If a piston pin tool is not available, a drift slightly smaller in diameter than the pin, may be used. Install the retainer and the needle bearings onto the end of the tool. Push the bearings and the tool into the rod PI STON PIN into the piston. ® 3-52 POWERHEAD piston pin bore. Place the top retainer on the side of the rod. Ease the tool out of the rod, and at the same time hold onto the needle bearing retainer washers. 12-Notice the word "UP0 on the piston pin boss inside the piston skirt. This word indicates the side of the piston that MUST face upward, toward the top of the powerhead, the tapered end of the crankshaft, when it is installed. The "UP" side of the piston MUST face downward on the support block when the piston pin is pressed in. Place the piston in a container of hot water, ° approximately 190 F. The piston may also be heated with a heat lamp to approximate- o ly 190 F. Place the heated piston, in an arbor press, in position on the Piston Support Block, C-91-77005, with the side marked "UP" on the piston pin boss down against the block. Use one hand to hold the sleeve, bearings, and locating washers in place. At the same time, with the other hand, insert the connecting rod into position in the piston, with the two bumps on the crankshaft end of the rod TOWARD the word "UP0 on the piston. Once the rod is in place, slide the handle portion of the piston pin tool up through the hole in the support block and on through the lower piston pin boss into the sleeve. Hold the piston pin needle bearings in place with the piston pin tool, and press the piston pin into position as far as possible with the arbor press. Use the piston pin tool between the arbor press and the piston pin to position the piston pin the rest of the way SAFETY WORD WEAR eye protection glasses while installing the piston pin lockrings, because the lockrings are made of spring steel and may slip out of the tool or pop out of the groove with considerable force. DO NOT use a lockring the second time. Use new lockrings and check to be sure they are properly seated in the piston grooves. 13-Install a G-type piston pin lockring at each end of the piston pin using Lockring Installation Tool, C-91-77109Al, or a pair of needle-nose pliers. Check and double check, to be sure each lockring is properly seated in the piston groove. Lubricate the piston, the rings.. and the cylinder bore with a good grade of 50weight oil. 14-Check the cylinder block to be sure the crankshaft main bearing dowel pins are in place. If they are not in place, install new pins. 1.5-Check to be sure the number painted onto the connecting rod during disassembly matches the cylinder number into which the piston assembly is to be installed. OBSERVE the identification marks on the crown of each piston. The word UP embossed on the crown, as shown in the accompanying illustration, indicates the side of the piston that MUST face upward, toward the top, the flywheel end, of the powerhead when it is installed. This position will place the large hole in the piston skirt directly opposite the exhaust port in the cylinder wall. SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-53 The piston can be inserted down through the bottom of the cylinder bore WITHOUT the use of any special tools. Position the piston squarely over the bore. Compress each ring, one at a time, and push down little by little until the piston slides easily into the cylinder bore. If, after repeated attempts, the piston cannot be installed into the bore, pull the piston out and inspect the alignment of the rings with the locating pins. DO NOT use force to push the piston into the bore. A piston ring will easily break if the end has jumped over the locating pin and is forced against the cylinder wall. The installer may not even realize the ring has broken during piston installation. The ring tension is checked later in Step 27 to verify the rings have been correctly installed. Crankshaft Installation 16-Lower the crankshaft assembly into the cylinder block, with the flywheel end toward the top of the powerhead. Rotate the main bearing races very slightly, until the dowel pin hole in each race indexes the dowel pins in the block. Gently push the crankshaft down into position. Installing Rods to Crankshaft 17-Apply a coating of Quicksilver Needle Bearing Assembly Lubricant C-9242649A- l to the bearing surface of the connecting rod. Thread one of the cap bolts into the connecting rod. The bolt can then be used as a tool, to move the connecting rod around, while performing the delicate task of installing the needle bearings and race to the crankshaft. Install the bearing cage and the roller bearings into the lubricant. ® 3-54 POWERHEAD NEVER intermix roller bearings from one connecting rod cage with those from another rod cage. NEVER intermix used roller bearings with new bearings. If just one bearing is unfit for service or is lost, the entire set MUST be replaced. 18-Move the connecting rod up to the crankshaft journal. Support the rod in place with one hand and remove the cap bolt. Apply a coating of Quicksilver Needle Bearing Assembly Lubricant C-92-lJ.2649Al to the crankshaft journal. Install the other bearing cage and the remaining roller bearings into the lubricant. 19-Thread the cap bolts into the cap until the bolt end is flush with the mating of the The manufacturer re commends the connecting rod bolts be installed DRY, with no oil or sealer applied to the threads. Place the rod cap in position with the marks on the connecting rod and cap aligned. Hold the two halves of the connecting rod cap tightly together and thread the rod bolts as far as possible by hand. 20-Check the alignment between the rod cap and the rod by moving a scratch-all back and forth on the chamfered corners between the rod cap and the rod. If a ridge is felt, the rod cap is not aligned properly. The cap MUST be aligned before proceeding. 21-Use a 12-point socket and tighten the rod bolts alternately in three progressive stages to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) for 1/4 inch bolts, 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm) for 5/16 inch bolts on 50-60hp powerheads, or 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm) for 70hp and larger powerheads. Tighten to 1/3 the torque value on the first sequence; to 2/3 the value on the second sequence; and to the full torque value on the third and final sequence. Again check the alignment between the cap and the rod. 22-Make a final inspection of the main bearings. All bearing shells MUST be firmly seated against the block --indexed with lo SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-55 3-CYL BEAD OF SEALANT 4-CYL BEAD OF SEALANT eating posts on the bearing mating surface. Do NOT attempt to rotate the crankshaft at this point, as the bearing shells may unseat. Exert a slight downward hand force on the crankshaft, and at the same time attempt to rotate the main bearing shells --one at a time. The attempt should fail. If a shell can be rotated, the bearing is not seated properly -the locating pin in the block is not indexed in the hole in the bearing shell. Lower End Cap Assembling 23-Lay down a thin bead of Loctite "A", or equivalent, to the outer diameter of the lower end cap oil seal. This outer diameter is the area making contact with the end cap. Use a suitable driver and press the oil seal into the lower end cap with the lip of the seal UP. The lip will then face toward the cylinder block when it is installed. Continue to press the seal into place until the seal is firmly seated on the end cap shoulder. Clean away any excess Loctite. Lubricate the surface of the end cap making contact with the cylinder block, and the lower end cap 0-ring with light weight oil. Install the lubricated 0-ring around the lower end cap. Install the lower end cap over the crankshaft. Lay down a bead of sealant around the perimeter of the crankcase, following the dark lines indicated. Extend the bead to each center main bearing journal to prevent "blow-by" between cylinders. Crankcase Cover Installation 24-Obtain Loctite Master Gasket Sealant kit, C-92-12564-1. Before mating the crankcase cover and the cylinder block, check to be sure: @ 70HP, 75HP, 80HP, & 90HP lOOHP & 110HP 50HP & 60HP 3-56 POWERHEAD a-The mating surfaces are clean. NEVER use any kind of tool or abrasive material to clean the surfaces. Use only solvent and "elbow grease". b-The crankshaft is properly sea ted. c-The rod caps have been correctly installed. d-The single dowel pin is in place on the block mating surface. Follow the directions in the kit and lay a bead of sealant onto the contact surface of the crankcase, as indicated by the dark line, in the accompanying illustrations. Extend the bead of sealer to each center main journal to prevent ''blow-by" between cylinders. 25-Lower the crankcase cover over the block, indexing the single dowel pin. Align the holes, before the sealant has time to set. 26-If working on a 50hp or 60hp powerhead, install the two check valves and holders in the locations indicated in illustration 826. Notice the bolts are of two different sizes, with the larger bolts located in the two center rows and the smaller bolts on the outer edges of the crankcase. Insert and hand tighten the bolts to be sure all are accounted for. There is a torquing sequence for each size bolt, as shown in the accompanying illustration. First, tighten the larger bolts of the crankcase cover in the pattern shown to the required torque value. Tighten in two stages, to a final torque value of 25 ft lb (34Nm). Next, tighten the smaller bolts of the crankcase cover in the pattern shown to the required torque value. Tighten in two sta SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-57 ges, to a final torque value of 18 ft lb 3-CYL (24Nm) for 50hp or 60hp powerheads, or 12 ft lb (17Nm) for 70hp, 75hp, 80hp, and 90hp powerheads, or 15 ft lb (20Nm) for 100hp and 11 Ohp power heads. Finally, tighten the bolts securing the lower end cap to a torque value of 18 ft lb (24Nm) for 50hp or 60hp powerheads, or 150 in lb (16Nm) for 70hp, 75hp, 80hp, and 90hp powerheads, or 180 in lb (20Nm) for 100hp and 11 Ohp power heads. 70hp and Larger Powerheads 27-Check to be sure each piston ring has spring tension. This is accomplished by CAREFULLY pressing on each ring with a screwdriver extended through the intake ports. If spring tension cannot be felt (the spring fails to return to its original position) the ring was probably broken during the piston installation process. TAKE CARE not to "burr" the piston rings while checking for spring tension. Thread the flywheel nut onto the end of the crankshaft. Rotate the crankshaft several times with a wrench on the nut and check the installation work thus far. The crankshaft should turn freely with no indication of binding or "rough" spots. Exhaust Cover Installation lt-CYL CRITICAL CAUTION New gaskets must be used and must be pr..erly installed to allow adequate water flow through the powerhead. If the water flow is restricted or blocked by a gasket improperly installed, the powerhead will be severely damaged in a matter of minutes after startup. 28-Position a NEW gasket on each side of the exhaust inner plate with the holes in @ 3-58 POWERHEAD the gasket aligned with the holes in the inner plate. Install the plate and gaskets onto the cylinder block. Install the exhaust manifold cover over the inner plate gasket and secure it in place with the attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to a torque value of 165 in lb (17Nm) for 3cylinder models or 180 in lb (20Nm) for 4cylinder models. Follow the sequence pattern given in the accompanying illustration. Cylinder Cover Installation 29-Position a new gasket over the water jacket. Install the cylinder cover and position the two retaining clips in the lo ® SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-59 TORQUE / WRENCH cations indicated in the accompanying illustration. Install and hand tighten the bolts. Tighten the bolts to a torque value of 165 in lb ( 17Nm) for 3-cylinder models or 180 in lb (20Nm) for lJ.-cylinder models in the sequence shown. "All Models Thermostat and Water Pressure Relief Valve Installation 30-Install the water pressure relief valve into the recess in..the block and secure it with the Phillips head screw. Install the thermostat into the block with the spring end going in first. 31-Install the spring over the water pressure relief valve, the rubber sealing ring around the thermostat, the larger thermo stat gasket and the housing. Hold the housing down against the spring pressure, while installing and tightening the bolts. Tighten the bolts to a torque value of 15 ft lb (20Nm). 70HP, 75HP, 50HP & 60HP 80HP, & 90HP lOOMP & 110HP Tightening sequence for the intake manifold bolts on 3-and 4-cylinder powerheads. Reed Block Housing Installation 32-Position a new gasket on both sides of the reed housing. Place the intake manifold over the upper gasket. Check to be sure all bolt holes are aligned. 33-Install and tighten the securing bolts alternately and evenly to a torque value of 18 ft lb (24Nm) for 50hp or 60hp powerReads, or 150 in lb (16Nm) for 70hp, 75hp, 80hp, and 90hp powerheads, or 180 in lb(20Nm) for 1 OOhp and 11 Ohp power heads. Oil Pump Installation 34-Insert the oil pump shaft into the block with a COUNTERCLOCKWISE rotation to ensure the splines on the shaft index with the teeth of the oil pump gear on the crankshaft. The top of the shaft has a flat edge to mate with the coupler. If the plug and magnet were removed from the coupler, a directional compass is required for assembly. Identify the SOUTH end of the magnet. Apply a thin coating of Multi-purpose Lubricant to the magnet and the plug, to hold them in place during installation of the coupler. Now, insert the magnet into the coupler with the SOUTH end of the magnet going in first. Insert the plug into the opening with the flat side of the plug going in first to bear against the magnet. Lower the coupler onto the oil pump shaft. When the coupler has mated with the shaft correctly, the coupler cannot be rotat ed. Place the 0-ring over the coupler and index the shaft of the oil pump into the top recess of the coupler. Secure the oil pump to the block with the attaching hardware. Tighten the bolts to a torque value of 60 in lb (7Nm). POWER HEAD INSTALLATION ALL MODELS Install the trigger plate assembly in the upper end cap, and then insert the link rod swivel into the vertical throttle lever. Secure the link rod to the throttle lever. Apply a drop of Loctite Type "A" onto the threads of the stator attaching screws. Install the stator assembly in the upper end cap. Tighten the attaching Allen head screws to a torque value of 60 in lb (7Nm). Insert the flywheel key in the crankshaft keyway. Check the inside rim of the fly wheel to be sure metal particles are not stuck to the flywheel magnets. Check to be sure the inside taper of the flywheel and the taper on the crankshaft are clean of dirt or oil, to prevent the flywheel from "walking" on the crankshaft during operation. Slide the flywheel down the crankshaft with the keyway in the flywheel aligned with the key on the crankshaft. Rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE and check to be sure the fly wheel does not contact any component or any of the wiring. Slide a flat washer onto the crankshaft, and then thread the flywheel nut onto the crankshaft. Hold the flywheel with a flywheel strap and tighten the nut to a torque value of 120 ft lb ( 163Nm). Thread a lifting eye onto the end of the crankshaft as far as it will go. For SAFETY, check to be sure the lifting eye is properly installed. Using a suitable hoist, lift the powerhead. Place a NEW gasket around the power head studs and into position on the base of the intermediate housing. Lubricate the driveshaft splines with Multi-purpose Lubricant. Slowly lower the powerhead down onto the intermediate housing. It may be necessary to rotate the flywheel slightly to index the crankshaft splines with the driveshaft splines. Once the splines index, lower the powerhead fully into place on the intermediate housing. SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-6 1 50hp and 60hp Powerheads Installation and Build-up Secure the powerhead to the interm ediate housing with the six bolts. Tighten the bolts in three stages to a torque value of 28 ft lb (38Nm). Install the lower cover around the intermediate housing and secure the cover in place with the four bolts. Tighten the bolts to a torque value of 80 in lb (9Nm). Disconnect the hoist from the lifting eye, and then remove the eye from the crankshaft. Install the plastic cap onto the end of the crankshaft. Install the flywheel cover and secure it in place with flat washers and wingnuts. Inst all the throttle lever to the block with the flat washer between the lever and the block. Secure the lever with the 17m m nut. The manufacturer does not give a torque value for this nut, but states "the nut must be tight, but the joint must still be free to pivot". Slide the control cable barrels into the receptacles cast into the side of the block. Attach the throttle cable to the shift lever, and then attach the shift cable to the stud on the shift actuator. Tighten both nuts securely. Swing the barrel retainer over the barrels. Install the lower bolt. Tighten both mounting bolts securely. Position a NEW gasket against the port area on the back of the fuel pump. Install the pump against the block with the two securing screws. Tighten the screws to a torque value of 40 in lb (4.5Nm). Connect the fuel outlet line to the upper fitting. Connect the pulse line from the crankcase to the fitting on the front face of the pump. Finally, connect the inlet fuel line, with the 2 psi check valve attached, to the lower The three carburetors, air box with cover, linkage and fuel lines are installed onto the powerhead as an Fuel system and control cable components on the assembly. portside of a 60hp powerhead. BLACK POWERHEAD GROUNDING CABLE I BLACK CABLE FROM NEGAT IVE BATTERY TERM INAL I BLACK CABLE FROM SOLENO ID Identification of the three Black cables connected to the cranking motor on a 50hp or 60hp powerhead since 1991 . One of the bracket securing bolts also secures the oil tank to the powerhead. fitting. Install th€' thr€'€' linE's to th€' fu€'1 pump using NEW tiE' wraps. Install NEW largE' and small 0-rings over th€' oll pump. Ind€'x th€' oll pump ovN th€' drivE' shaft in th€' block. 5€'cUr€' th€' pump to thE' block with the two Philips h€'ad scrE'ws. TightE'n th€' scrE'ws to a torque valuE' of 45 in lb (5Nm). ConnE'ct the oil outlE't line bE'tween the horizontal fitting on the pump and 2 psi ch€'ck valve nE'xt to the fuel pump. Conn€'ct the oil supply lin€' betw€'en the tank and the VE'rtical fitting on the pump. 5€'cur€' both linE's with NEW tiE' wraps. Position nE'W carburetor gask€'ts onto th€' carbur€'tor mounting flanges of th€' rE'ed block housing. SecurE' the carbur€'tors, as an assembly, to the intakE' manifold using th€' six long bolts. TightE'n the bolts to a torque value of 100 in lb (liNm). Install th€' E'nrichmE'nt valve onto the portside of the block and connect the shortE'r lin€' from the valve to the fitting on the top carburE'tor bowl. Connect th€' longer line from the valve to th€' fitting at th€' oil pump bas€'. Install th€' air box and cover over th€' carbur€'tors. Connect th€' Blue/White, Green/Whit€', and Red/Black 1€'ads at the trim switch locat€'d on the side of th€' lower powerhead cover. Install the electrical box to the power head with the S€'curing hardware. Install the low oil warning module to the inside of the lower powerh€'ad cover, securing the Black ground eyelet lead under one of th€' mount ing bolts. Connect the Tan, PurplE', and two Light Blu€' leads at their quick disconnE'ct fittings inside the E'lectrical box. ConnE'ct the main wiring harness connector. Connect the White/Black, PurplE', Brown, and Whit€' lE'ads between the stator and trigger harness and the components inside the €'l€'ctrical box, at their quick disconnect fittings. Refer to the wiring diagram in the Appendix to makE' certain the connections are mad€' correctly. Install the cov€'r ovE'r the el€'c tr ical box, make sure th€' cov€'r fits into the groove in the lower powE'rhE'ad cover. In stall and tighten th€' six bolts securing th€' cover to the box. Install th€' cranking motor to the pow€'rhead. Install the oil tank and align the mounting bolt with the hole on the right side of the cranking motor. Position the brackE't across thE' motor and tank. Plac€' the Black cable, with the R€'d sl€'eve, --from the negative battE'ry terminal --ovE'r the right hole. Install and tighten the two bolts s€'curely. ConnE'ct the Black cable from the solenoid to th€' lower terminal on th€' cranking motor and th€' Black pow€'rh€'ad grounding cable to the upper terminal on th€' motor. Connect the two Light Blue 1€'ads from the oil sensor at the base of the oil tank, to th€' Light Blu€' lE'ads from thE' low oil warning modulE' harness, at their quick disconnect fittings. Inst all the. spark plugs and spark plug 1€'ads. Connect the battE'ry cablE's to th€' battery. Notice both cablE'S arE' Black. Th€' Black cable with th€' RE'd sleevE' is th€' positive cable. The Black cab!€' with no sleeve is the negative battery cable. 70hp and Larger Powerheads Installation and Build-up Secure the powerhead to thE' intermediate housing with th€' eight flat washers and locknuts. Tighten th€' locknuts in thr€'e stages to the following torque value: 165 ft lb (19Nm) for 70hp, 75hp, 80hp, and 90hp powerh€'ads or 350 ft lb (40Nm) for lOOhp and 11 Ohp power hE' ads. SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-6 3 Disconnect the hoist from the lifting eye, and then remove the eye from the crankshaft. Install the plastic cap onto the end of the crankshaft. Install the flywheel cover and secure it in place with flat wash ers and wingnuts. Install the throttle lever to the reed housing, with the flat washer between the lever and the housing. Secure the lever with the 17mm nut. The manufacturer does not give a torque value for this nut, but states "the nut must be tight, but the joint must still be free to pivot". Attach the ignition plate, with the electrical components, to the starboard side of the powerhead with the four bolts and flat washers. Check to be sure the ground wires are properly installed, and then tighten the bolts securely. Connect the stator wires and trigger wires to the proper terminals of the switch boxes. Push the temperature sender into the sealing grommet under the thermostat housing. Secure the sender retainer with a single Phillips head screw. Connect the Black lead to the terminal block. Connect the Purple and Light Blue leads at their quick disconnect fittings. Connect the Tan and Black leads from the oil level warning horn to the terminal block on the ignition plate. Install the oil level warning module, if so equipped, under the ignition plate. Tighten the two securing bolts to a torque value of 80 in lb ( 4.5Nm). Install the shift bracket to the powerhead. Tighten the two bolts to a torque value of 180 in lb (20Nm). Attach the shift arm to the under side of the shift bracket. Connect the throttle cable to the throttle lever. Install the cranking motor to the powerhead. Tighten the four attaching bolts to a torque value of 165 ft lb (18.6Nm) for 3cylinder powerheads or 180 ft lb (20Nm) for 4-cylinder powerheads. Position new carburetor gaskets onto the carburetor mounting flanges of the reed block housing. Install the carburetors, and then the air box onto the powerhead as an assembly. Secure the assembly with locknuts to the intake manifold. Tighten the nuts to a torque value of 100 in lb (11 Nm). Install the fuel filter and connect the inlet fuel hose to the top carburetor. Connect the fuel hose from the enrichener valve to the "T" fitting between carburetor No. 1 and carburetor No. 2. On 4-cylinder powerheads: Install the accelerator pump to the block and tighten the attaching bolts securely. Connect the inlet hose to the forward fitting on the pump and route the aft hose to the "T" fitting on the starboard side of the powerhead to supply fuel to the check valves on the No. 3 and No. 4 cylinders. Connect the fuel inlet hose from the accelerator pump to the "T" fitting between carburetors No. 2 and No. 3. Connect the vapor return hose from the accelerator pump to the "T" fitting next to the fuel pump. All models: Connect the bleed hose from the No. 1 cylinder fitting to the check valve located at the lower end cap. Install the fuel pump gaskets and diaphragm. Assemble the fuel pump to the reed block housing. Secure the fuel pump assembly in place with the five screws tightened to a torque value of 40 in lb (4.5Nm). Snap the oil control link rod onto the ball joint of the No. 2 carburetor throttle lever. Connect the throttle control link rod between the throttle cam and the throttle lever. Install the oil tank, first securing it to the powerhead with the bottom oil tank support bracket. Hold the tank to prevent it Location of the enrichener valve and fuel pump, showing hose routing. from tipping over until the upper air box mount plate can be installed and secured. Install the mount plate with the attaching hardware and tighten the bolts to a torque value of 100 in lb (11 Nm). Then install the upper tank support bracket across the filler cap. Connect the oil supply hose to the oil pump. Install the air box cover and tighten the attaching screws securely. Install the fuel joint connector to the front lower cowling bracket with the single bolt. Secure the front cowl mount bracket to the air box mount plate. Tighten the two attaching bolts to a torque value of 150 in lb (17Nm). Connect the large Red battery cable to the cranking motor solenoid. Connect the large Black battery cable to the lower front cranking motor mount bracket. Tighten this grounding bolt to a torque value of 180 in lb (20Nm). Connect the large Yellow cable from the solenoid to the cranking motor. Connect the two halves of the power trim fuse mounted on the cranking motor. Check to see all connections to the terminal block on the ignition plate have been made. Refer to the diagram in the Appen dix, if necessary, and then install the igni tion plate cover. Secure the control box wiring harness to the side of the powerhead cowling mount bracket with the retaining strap and two Phillips head screws. Install the aft cowling bracket and tighten the securing bolts to a torque value of 150 in lb (17Nm). Attach the tattle-tale hose to the aft cowling support bracket. Install and tighten the spark plugs to a torque value of 20 ft lb (27Nm). Connect the ignition coil high tension leads to their respective spark plugs. Connect the remote control cables to the powerhead. Connect the engine battery cables to the battery terminals. Check to be sure the system polarity is maintained. Connect the powerhead and fuel tank lines. For complete detailed timing and synchronizing procedures, see Chapter 6. Mount the outboard unit in a test tank or on a boat in a body of water. Turn the fuel shut off valve to the ON position. Start the powerhead and follow the break in proce dures given after the Caution. CAUTION Water must circulate through the lower unit to the powerhead anytime the powerhead is operating to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump impeller. Break In Procedures As soon as the powerhead starts, CHECK to be sure the water pump is operating. If Hopefully, wire leads were tagged prior to being The oil tank is first secured to the powerhead with disconnected. If not, refer to the wiring diagrams in the lower support bracket. The tank must be supported the Appendix to make the correct connections on the while the upper bracket is installed. ignition plate. SERVICE REDESIGNED MODEL 3-65 Make a final check of hoses, link rods, and electrical connections before starting up the powerhead. TEST BUTTON ( IF EQU I PPED) Upper oil tank support bracket installation. the water pump is operating, a water mist will be discharged from the exhaust relief holes at the rear of the intermediate housing. Check the cylinder cover, the exhaust manifold cover, and the thermostat cover for water leaks. Make a thorough check for fuel and exhaust leaks. If a powerhead leak is detected, the problem area MUST be corrected before placing the engine in service. During the first 10 hours of operation, DO NOT operate the powerhead at full throttle (except for VERY short periods) as follows: a-Operate at 1/2 throttle, approximately 2500 to 3500 rpm, for 2 hours. b-Operate at any speed after 2 hours BUT NOT at sustained full throttle until another 8 hours of operation. Installation of the lower front cowling bracket with the fuel joint installed. The tattle-tale hose attached to the aft cowling support bracket. c-Mix gasoline and oil during the break in period, total of 10 hours, at a ratio of 50:1 for ALL units including powerheads with oil injection. d-While the engine is operating during the initial period, check the fuel, exhaust, and water systems for leaks. e-Refer to Chapter 6 for synchronizing procedures. After the test period, disconnect the fuel line. Remove the engine from the test tank. Install the engine cowling. 3-4 CLEANING AND INSPECTING ALL MODELS The success of the overhaul work is largely dependent on how well the cleaning and inspecting procedures are completed. If some parts are not thoroughly cleaned, or if an unsatisfactory unit is allowed to be returned to service through negligent inspection, the time and expense involved in the work will not be justified with peak engine performance and long operating life. Therefore, the procedures in the following sections should be followed in detail and the work performed with patience and attention to detail. THERMOSTAT SERVICE Inspect the thermostat cover and the thermostat opening in the cylinder head cover for cracks and corrosion damage. Such damage could cause leakage. Remove and DISCARD the old thermostat gasket. Wash the thermostat with clegn water. Obtain a thermostat tester or similar device, as shown in the accompanying illustration. Test the thermostat as follows: a-Open the thermostat valve. Insert a length of thread between the valve and the thermostat body. Allow the valve to close against the thread. b-Suspend the thermostat by the thread inside the tester. Do not allow the thermostat to touch the bottom or sides of the tester. c-Suspend a thermometer inside the tester, with the bottom of the thermometer even with the bottom of the thermostat. Do not allow the thermometer to touch the bottom or sides of the tester. d-Fill the tester with water to cover the thermostat. Plug the tester into an electrical outlet. e-Observe the temperature at which the thermostat begins to open. As soon as the thermostat starts to open, it will drop off the thread. The thermostat MUST begin to open at 140 ° to 145 °F. f-Continue to heat the water until the thermostat is completely open. Unplug the tester. g-Allow the water in the tester to cool before testing the next thermostat. Replace the thermostat, if it fails to open at the specified temperature, or if it does not fully open. Two different temperature senders may be installed on powerheads covered in this manual. The sender is actually an electrical switch ·designed to close at a preset temperature and allow current to flow. One unit is a 190 °F, the other, a 240°F sender. The location of the temperature sender on the powerhead determines the heat range of the sender. A sender installed directly below the spark plug opening is rated at 240°F and will activate the overheating alarm at 248°F. The 190 °F sender is installed on the outer side of a cylinder head and will activate the overheating alarm at 198 °F. Because of their heat range, the sender cannot be tested in the same manner as a thermostat. Therefore, if the sender is suspected as being faulty, remove the unit and replace it with a new one. REED BLOCK SERVICE INTEGRAL-TYPE Secure the reed blocks together with screws and nuts tightened to torque value of 85 in lb (7Nm). Thermostat ready for testing, as described in the text. CLEANING & INSPECTING 3-6 7 Arrangement of reed box parts. The reed box is in the center with the reed and reed plate on each side. Typical reed boxes used on the powerheads for the outboard units covered in this manual. Check for chipped or broken reeds. Observe that the reeds are not preloaded or standing open. Satisfactory reeds will not adhere to the reed block surface, but still there is not more than 0.007" (0.18mm) clearance between the reed and the block surface. DO NOT remove the reeds, unless they are to be replaced. ALWAYS replace reeds in sets. NEVER turn used reed over to be used a second time. Check the reed location over the reed block openings to be sure the reed is centered. Using a drill bit shank to measure the reed stop height, if a measurement scale is not available. Refer to the Specifications in the Appendix for the proper height. See "Reed Stop Settings" in the Specifications in the Appendix and adjust the reed stops as required. GOOD WORDS If the powerhead shows evidence of having overheated, check the condition of the plastic locating pins. If the pins are damaged (melted) the pins will affect engine performance by poor idle, hard starting, etc. REED BLOCK SERVICE SEPARATE REED BLOCK HOUSING NEW RE-DESIGNED INLINE BLOCKS DO NOT remove the reeds, unless they are to be replaced. ALWAYS replace reeds in sets. NEVER turn used reed over to be used a second time. Clean the gasket surfaces of the reed blocks and the reed block housing. Inspect the surfaces for any signs of damage, deep grooves, cracks or distortion that might cause leakage. Check the face of each reed block to be sure a reed has not made an indentation. Check for chipped or broken reeds. Replace any damaged parts. Assembling Place the reeds and the reed stops in position on the reed blocks. Secure the reeds and stops in place with the screws and lockwashers. Tighten the screws to a torque The grooves inside the reed block must be in good condition in order to form an effective seal between cylinders. The groove should be checked for wear. The grooves in the block half on the right show excessive wear. Therefore, both halves of the reed block MUST be replaced. The crankshaft throw may be out-ofround, the main bearing may be worn, insufficient lubrication, or a worn block may cause such damage. The reed block half on the left is satisfactory. Therefore, if both halves are in this condition, the reed block may be used again. HOR I ZONTALLY MOUNTED 10 PETAL REED BlOCK HOR IZONTALLY MOUNTED 14 PETAL REED BLOCK VERTICALLY MOUNTED 10 PETAL REED BLOCK Three different reed designs are used on the powerheads covered in this manual. REED BlOCK Measuring the reed opening with a feeler gauge. value of 25 in lb (3Nm). Check to be sure the reeds are preloaded. They should not adhere to the reed block and still there should not be more than 0.020" (.5lmm) clearance between the reed and the reed block surface. Check each reed stop to be sure they are not bent sideways. Refer to the reed stop opening chart in the Appendix for the correct dimension for the powerhead being serviced. Place the reed block gaskets, and then the reed blocks into position in the reed block housing. Tighten the attaching screws to a torque value of 60 in lb (7Nm). CRITICAL WORDS When one "teardrop" reed and one "straight cut" reed are used, the reed block MUST BE installed in the reed block housing with the "teardrop" reed toward the center (inside) the reed block housing. Check the reed location over the reed block openings to be sure the reed is centered. CRANKSHAFT SERVICE Inspect the splines for signs of abnormal wear. Check the crankshaft for straightness. Inspect the crankshaft oil seal surfaces to be sure they are not grooved, pitted or scratched. Replace the crankshaft if it is severely damaged or worn. Check all crank- Measuring the reed opening on a "rose petal" design The dimension shown indicates the reed stop open ing. reed block housing, installed on the large bore 3-and 4cylinder powerheads. Crankshaft assembly from a submerged engine. This complete assembly must be replaced because of salt water da mage, and failure of the owner to disassemble the unit quickly. shaft bearing surfaces for rust, water marks, chatter marks, uneven wear or overheating. Clean the crankshaft surfaces with 320-grit carborundum cloth. NEVER spindry a crankshaft ball bearing with compressed air. Clean the crankshaft and crankshaft ball bearing with solvent. Dry the parts, but not the ball bearing with compressed air. Check the crankshaft surfaces a second time. Re- CLEANING & INSPECTING 3-69 place the crankshaft if the surfaces cannot be cleaned properly for satisfactory service. If the crankshaft is to be installed for service, lubricate the surfaces with light oil. DO NOT lubricate the crankshaft ball bearing at this time. CRANKSHAFT AND END CAP BEARINGS After the crankshaft has been cleaned, grasp the outer race of the crankshaft ball bearing installed on the lower end of the crankshaft, and attempt to work the race back-and-forth. There should not be excessive "play". A very slight amount of side "play" is acceptable because there is only about 0.001" (.025mm) clearance in the bearing. Lubricate the ball bearing with light oil. Check the action of the bearing by rotating the outer bearing race. The bearing should have a smooth action and no rust stains. If the ball bearing sounds or feels rough or catches, the bearing should be removed and discarded. Clean the crankshaft center main roller bearings with solvent, and then dry them thoroughly, BUT NOT with compressed air. Lubricate the bearings with light weight oil. NEVER intermix halves of upper and lower crankshaft center main roller bearings. The bearings MUST be replaced only in pairs. Inspect the center main roller bearings. Replace the bearings in pairs if they are rusted, fractured, worn, galled or badly discolored. Clean the crankshaft roller bearings installed in the upper end cap with solvent, and then dry them, BUT NOT with compressed air. Lubricate the bearings with lightweight oil. Inspect the upper end cap roller bearing to be sure it is not rusted, fractured, worn, galled, or badly discolored. If the bearing is damaged, it should be removed and discarded. Bearing liners showing the matching V marks for proper alignment. The inside diameter of the liners Cleaning the crankshaft with crocus cloth. should be cleaned with crocus cloth. FEELER GAUGE Cleaning the inside diameter of the rod and rod cap with crocus cloth. CONNECTING ROD SERVICE Stand each connecting rod upright on a surface plate and check the alignment. The rod is bent and unfit for further service, if: a-Light can be seen under any portion of the machined surfaces --the surfaces which mate with the rod cap. b-The rod has a slight wobble on the plate. c-A 0.002" (.05mm) feeler gauge can be inserted between the machined surface and the surface plate. Inspect the connecting rod bearings for rust or signs of bearing failure. NEVER intermix new and used bearings. If even one bearing in a set needs to be replaced, all bearings at that location MUST be replaced. Inspect the bearing surface of the rod and the rod cap for rust and pitting. Inspect the bearing surface of the rod and the rod cap for water marks. Water marks are caused by the bearing surface being subjected to water contamination, which causes "etching". The etching resembles the size of the bearing as shown in the accompanying illustration. Cleaning the inside diameter of the piston pin end with crocus cloth. Check for rod warpage by placing one on top of a known good rod, and then attempting to insert a feeler gauge between the two surfaces. There should be NO clearance between the two rods. Inspect the bearing surface of the rod and rod cap for signs of spalling. Spalling is the loss of bearing surface, and resembles flaking or chipping. The spalling condition will be most evident on the thrust portion of the connecting rod in line with the 1-beam. Bearing surface damage is usually caused by improper lubrication. Check the bearing surface of the rod and rod cap for signs of chatter marks. This condition is identified by a rough bearing surface resembling a tiny washboard. The condition is caused by a combination of lowspeed low load operation in cold water, and is aggravated by inadequate lubrication and improper fuel. Under these conditions, the crankshaft journal is hammered by the connecting rod. As ignition occurs in the cylinder, the piston pushes the connecting rod with tremendous force, and this force is transferred to the connecting rod journal. Since there is little or no load on the crankshaft, it bounces away from the con- Checking for rod warpage at the piston pin end. This is accomplished by laying one rod on top of a known good rod, and then checking for clearance between the two with a feeler gauge. There should be NO clearance. CLEANING & INSPECTING 3-71 necting rod. The crankshaft then remains immobile for a microsecond, until the piston travel causes the connecting rod to catch up to the waiting crankshaft journal, then hammers it. In some instances, the connecting rod crankpin bore becomes highly polished. While the powerhead is running, a "whirr" and/ or "chirp" sound may be heard during rapid acceleration from idle speed to about 1500 rpm, then quickly returned to idle. If chatter marks are discovered, the crankshaft and the connecting rods should be replaced. Inspect the bearing surface of the rod and rod cap for signs of uneven wear and possible overheating. Uneven wear is usually caused by a bent connecting rod or by improper shimming for crankshaft end "play" --failure to maintain the same amount of shim material under each end cap. Improper shimming causes the crankshaft journal to be off-center under the cylinder bore. Overheating is identified by a bluish bearing surface color and is caused by inadequate lubrication or operating the powerhead at excessively high rpm. Connecting Rod Bearing Surfaces Service the connecting rod bearing surfaces according to the following procedures and precautions. a-Align the etched marks on the connecting rod with the etched marks on the connecting rod cap. b-Tighten the connecting rod cap attaching bolts securely. c-Two types of bearings are used on the crankpin end of the rod. One is a noncaged type with individual needles. The other is a Water scoring on the inside of the rod and rod cap. Such damage is caused by water in the crankcase. This rod set MUsr be replaced. caged type with separate rollers. Clean the caged type with 320-grit carborundum cloth. d-Use ONLY crocus cloth to clean the bearing surface at the crankshaft end of the connecting rod. NEVER use any other type abrasive material. e-Insert the cloth in a slotted 3/8" (9.5mm) diameter shaft. Chuck the shaft in a drill press and operate the press at high speed and at the sa..e time, keep the connecting rod at a 90 angle to the slotted shaft. f-Clean the connecting rod ONLY enough to remove marks. DO NOT continue, once the marks have disappeared. g-Clean the piston pin end of the connecting rod using the method described in Step "e", above, using 320 grit carborundum cloth. h-Thorough! y wash the connecting rods to remove abrasive grit. After washing, check the bearing surfaces a second time. i-If the connecting rod cannot be cleaned properly, it should be replaced. j-Lubricate the bearing surfaces of the connecting rods with light weight oil to prevent corrosion. It is believed, this crown seized with the cylinder wall when the unit was operated at high rpm and the timing was not adjusted properly. At the same instant, the rod apparently pulled the lower part of the piston downward, severing it from the crown. This piston was damaged when the water Enlarged View of Piston Ring Grooves ,/// ...·' Piston with the top ring a keystone (tapered) ring and the bottom ring rectangular. The rings on this piston became stuck due to lack of adequate lubrication, incorrect timing, or overheating. pump failed to deliver sufficient coolant to the powerhead. PISTON SERVICE CRITICAL WORDS NEVER attempt to reuse a 3-ring piston once it has been removed from a connecting rod. When the piston is removed, from the rod, the piston is damaged and unfit for further service. ALSO, if the engine was submerged while it was running, the piston Piston with both the top and bottom ring a keystone (tapered) ring. pin and/or the connecting rod may be bent. If the piston pin is bent, the piston MUST be replaced. Piston pins are NOT sold sep arately, because they are a matched fit with the piston. If the piston pin is bent, the connecting rod MUST be checked for straightness as described in earlier paragraphs of this section. Inspect each piston for evidence of scoring, cracks, metal damage, cracked piston pin boss, or worn pin boss. Be especially critical during inspection if the engine has been submerged. If a piston pin is hent, the pin and piston MUST be replaced as a set, because the pin will damage the boss when it is removed. Clean carbon deposits from the top of the piston using a soft wire brush, carbon removal solution, or by sand blasting. If a wire brush is used, TAKE CARE not to CLEANING & INSPECTING 3-73 burr or round machined edges. Clean the piston skirt with crocus cloth. After the pistons have been cleaned, check each piston for size and roundness using a micrometer as follows: FIRST, THESE WORDS Two different shaped piston are used on some powerheads covered in this manual --­ tapered and barrel profile. The difference can ONLY be determined by accurate measurement. a-Measure the outside of the piston skirt. Make this measurement at the bottom of the skirt in line with the piston pin b-Measure the outside of the piston above the top piston ring in line with the piston pin and again at right angle (90 °) to the piston pin. c-Measure the outside of the piston 29/32" (23mm) up from the bottom of the piston in line with the piston pin and again ° at right angle (90 ) to the piston pin. d-Measure the outside of the piston 1/2" (12.7mm) up from the bottom of the piston in line with the piston pin and again ° at right angle (90 ) to the piston pin. Piston Ring Identification CRITICAL WORDS Powerheads covered in this manual contain two different type 2-ring pistons. Some pistons contain one keystone, tapered, ring. This tapered ring is always used in the top ring groove. This same piston also uses one rectangular ring which is used in the bottom ring groove. Other 2-ring pistons contain two keystone rings. Therefore, it will be necessary to measure ring thickness in order to identify each ring, as shown in the accompanying illustration. This information must be kept in mind when using a broken ring to clean piston ring grooves. Measure and identify the type of rings used on the pistons being serviced. Inspect the piston ring locating pins to be sure they are tight. There is one locating pin in each ring groove. If the locating pins are loose, the piston must be replaced. Ring End Gap Clearance Check each ring to be sure the end gap is not excessive. The end gap may be checked The cylinder taper drastically affects ring end gap, as shown in this cross-section line drawing. by placing the ring squarely in the cleaned cylinder bore, and then measuring the end gap with a feeler gauge, as shown in the accompanying illustration on this page. Standard acceptable end gap is 0.005" (0.13mm) per inch of bore. To determine Using a feeler gauge to measure the amount ?f ring end gap. The ring is temporarily install ed z.. the . cylinder at right-angle to the wall, as explazned m the text. Piston and rod damaged from operating the engine at too high an rpm without sufficient load on the propeller shaft. This combination caused the powerhead to literally "blow apart". Operating the engine above an idle speed with a flush attachment connected to the lower unit could result in the same type of internal destruction. the exact amount of end gap, simply multi ply the cylinder bore by 0.005" (0.13mm). Example: Bore = 3.00" times 0.005" equals an acceptable end gap of 0.015" (0.33mm) CYLINDER BLOCK SERVICE FIRST THESE WORDS The crankcase cover and the cylinder block are a matched, line bored assembly. Therefore, the cover and the block should ALWAYS be kept together and NEVER mismatched with a part from another set. If the crankcase cover or cylinder block is to be submerged in a very strong cleaning solution, the crankcase cover/cylinder block bleed system MUST be removed to prevent damage to the hoses and check valves. Clean the cylinder block and crankcase cover. Pay particular attention to remove all sealant and old gasket material from matching surfaces. Remove all carbon deposits from the exhaust ports. Piston pin cleaned and ready for installation. The pin has been carefully checked and passed inspection for further service. Inspect the cylinder block and crankcase cover for cracks or fractures. Inspect the gasket surfaces for nicks, deep grooves, cracks or any distortion which might cause a compression leak. Check all water and oil passages in the cylinder block and crankcase cover to be sure they are not obstructed. Check to be sure the plugs are in place and tight. On 4-cylinder powerheads equipped with the "2+2" concept, accelerator pump check valves are located at cylinder No. 3 and No. 4 on the starboard side of the block. These check valves MUST be removed if the block is to be honed or cleaned to avoid damage or blockage of the valve. Measure the cylinder bore diameter of each cylinder with an inside micrometer. Check for tapered, out of round, and oversize bore condition. Refer to the Specifications in the Appendix. If a cylinder bore is tapered, out of round or worn more than 0.006" (.15mm) from standard Cylinder Block Finish Hone diameter, it will be necessary to rebore that particular cylinder to 0.015" (.38mm) or 0.030" (.76mm) oversize and install an oversize piston and ring assembly. GOOD WORDS Oversize piston weight is approximately the same as a standard size piston. Therefore, it is NOT necessary to rebore all cylinders in a block just because one cylinder requires reboring. The APBA (American Power Boat Association) accepts and permits the use of 0.015" (.38mm) oversize pistons. HONING PROCEDURES To ensure satisfactory powerhead performance and long life following the overhaul work, the honing work should be performed with patience, skill, and in the following sequence: a-Follow the hone manufacturer's recommendations for use of the hone and for cleaning and lubricating during the honing operation. b-Pump a continuous flow of honing oil into the work area. If pumping is not practical, use an oil can. Apply the oil generously and frequently on both the stones and work surface. c-Begin the stroking at the smallest diameter. Maintain a firm stone pressure against the cylinder wall to assure fast stock removal and accurate results. d-Expand the stones as necessary to compensate for stock removal and stone wear. The best crosshatch pattern is obtained using a stroke rate of 30 complete cycles per minute. Again, use the honing oil generously. e-Hone the cylinder walls ONLY enough to deglaze the walls. f-After the honing operation has been completed, clean the cylinder bores with hot water and detergent. Scrub the walls with a stiff bristle brush and rinse thoroughly with hot water. The cylinders MUST be thoroughly cleaned to prevent any abrasive material from remaining in the cylinder bore. Such material will cause rapid wear of new piston rings, the cylinder bore, and the bearings. g-After cleaning, swab the bores several times with engine oil and a clean cloth, and then wipe them dry with a clean cloth. NEVER use kerosene or gasoline to clean the cylinders. h-Clean the remainder of the cylinder block to remove any excess material spread during the honing operation. STOP! If the cylinder block is to be submerged in a carbon removal solution, the crankcase ..liONE Using a hone to clean the cylinder walls. The secret of honing is to keep the hone moving in long even strokes the full length of the cylinder AND to keep the stones wet with an ample amount of lubricant. CLEANING & INSPECTING 3-75 bleed system MUST be removed from the block to prevent damage to hoses and check valves. Use an inside micrometer or telescopic gauge and micrometer to check the cylinders for wear. Check the bore for out of round and/ or oversize bore. If the bore is tapered, out of round or worn more than 0.003" -0.004" (0.08 -O.lOmm) the cylinders should be rebored to 0.015" (0.38mm) oversize and oversize pistons and rings installed. SPECIAL WORDS If overheating has occurred, check and resurface the spark plug area of the cylinder block, if necessary. This can be accomplished with 240-grit sandpaper. Use a circular motion to prevent leaving grooves from finger pressure through the sandpaper. Cylinder sleeves are an integral part of the die cast cylinder block and CANNOT be replaced. In other words, the cylinder cannot be resleeved. CYLINDER BLOCK SERVICE Inspect the cylinder block and cylinder bores for cracks or other damage. Remove carbon with a fine wire brush on a shaft attached to an electric drill or use a carbon remover solution. Cleaning the crankshaft mating surface of a 2cylinder powerhead with solvent and a rag. A tool or abrasive material should NEVER be used to clean these surfaces. This procedure and rule applies to the 3-and 4-cylinder units covered in this manual. Checking the cylinder taper using an inside micrometer. One measurement should be taken near the top and another near the bottom. The difference between the two measurements is the amount of taper. Check the Specifications for allowances. After all cleaning and inspecting procedures have been completed, coat the cylinder bores several times with light weight engine oil and a clean cloth. Be sure all parts to be reused have been carefully cleaned and thoroughly inspected. Parts not properly cleaned, or parts not suitable for service can damage a good powerhead within a few minutes after starting the engine. NEW gaskets MUST always be used during an overhaul. A torque wrench is essential to correctly assemble the powerhead. NEVER attempt This sectioned cylinder shows an ideal cross hatch pattern on the cylinder wall. The pattern is necessary to seat the ring/s against the cylinder wall to provide an adequate seal for maximum compression. E)/CHECK VALVE OOL. A good check valve --installed only on 50hp and 60hp powerheads since 1991 -will allow air to pass in the direction shown. If the valve allows air to pass in the opposite direction, it MUST be replaced. to assemble a powerhead without a torque wrench. Attaching bolts for covers MUST be tightened to the required torque value in three progressive stages, following the specified tightening sequence. On the first stage, tighten to 1/3 the torque value. On the second stage, tighten to 2/3 the total torque value. Finally, on the third and last stage, tighten to the full torque value. Check Valves 50hp and 60hp Powerheads Only Two check valves are inst ailed in the intake manifold. The purpose of these valves is to prevent the build-up of excess pressure inside the crankcase. If the crankcase pressure exceeds a pre-set limit, a nylon ball is lifted off its seat inside the check valve and pressure is released. To test each valve, pull out the holder -with check valve inside --from the orifice in the intake manifold. A tternpt to blow air through each end. A good valve will allow air to pass through only from the crankcase side to the manifold side. A defective valve will allow air to pass through from the manifold side to the crankcase side. If a defective valve is allowed to remain in place, it will lean the air/fuel mixture and cause the powerhead to overheat. Inspect the valve by holding it up to the light. If light can be seen, the nylon ball has probably melted and the valve must be replaced. If no light is seen, insert a fine wire into the check valve and attempt to move the ball. The ball should move slightly. If the ball is stuck in place, crankcase pressure will not be sufficient to move the ball off its seat and the powerhead will be damaged. If the check valve is found to be defective, it MUST be replaced. 4 FUEL 4-1 INTRODUCTION The carburetion and ignition principles of two-cycle engine operation MUST be understood in order to perform a proper tuneup on an outboard motor. If you have any doubts concerning your understanding of two-cycle engine operation, it would be best to study the Introduction section in the first portion of Chapter 3, before tackling any work on the fuel system. The fuel system includes the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel filters, carburetor, connecting lines, with a squeeze bulb, and the associated parts to connect it all together. Regular maintenance of the fuel system to obtain maximum performance, is limited to changing the fuel filter at regular intervals and using fresh fuel. Fuel flow principle of a modern carburetor. If a sudden increase in gas consumption is noticed, or if the engine does not perform properly, a carburetor overhaul, including boil-out, or replacement of the fuel pump may be required. 4-2 GENERAL CARBURETION INFORMATION The carburetor is merely a metering device for mixing fuel and air in the proper proportions for efficient engine operation. At idle speed, an outboard engine requires a mixture of about 8 parts air to 1 part fuel. At high speed or under heavy duty service, the mixture may change to as much as 12 parts air to 1 part fuel. Float Systems A small chamber in the carburetor serves as a fuel reservoir. A float valve admits fuel into the reservoir to replace the fuel consumed by the engine. If the carburetor has more than one reservoir, the fuel IDLE AND THROTTLE SLOW SPEED VENTURI RING HIGH SPEED NEEDLE HIGH SPEED ORFICE Fuel flow through the venturi, showing principle and related parts controlling intake and outflow. 4-2 FUEL BODY & STEM CHECK VALVE ASSEMBLYASSEMBLYFUEL TANK ENGINE CONEND NECTOR END L--PRIME R BULB CIRCL E CLAMP Major parts of a common fuel line squeeze bulb. level in each reservoir (chamber) is controlled by identical float systems. Fuel level in each chamber is extremely critical and must be maintained accurately. Accuracy is obtained through proper adjustment of the float/s. This adjustment will provide a balanced metering of fuel to each cylinder at all speeds. Following the fuel through its course, from the fuel tank to the combustion cham ber of the cylinder, will provide an appreci- ation of exactly what is taking place. In order to start the engine, the fuel must be moved from the tank to the carburetor by a squeeze bulb installed in the fuel line. This action is necessary because the fuel pump does not have sufficient pressure to draw fuel from the tank during cranking before the engine starts. Typical fuel filter location on the powerheads cov­ered in this manual. After the engine starts, the fuel passes through the pump to the carburetor. All systems have some type of fi1 ter installed somewhere in the line between the tank and the carburetor. Many units have a filter as an integral part of the carburetor. At the carburetor, the fuel passes through the inlet passage to the needle and seat, and then into the float chamber (reservoir). A float in the chamber rides up and down on the surface of the fuel. After fuel enters the chamber and the level rises to a predetermined point, a tang on the float closes the inlet needle and the flow entering the chamber is cutoff. When fuel leaves the chamber as the engine operates, the fuel level drops and the float tang allows the inlet needle to move off its seat and fuel once again enters the chamber. In this manner a constant reservoir of fuel is maintained in the chamber to satisfy the demands of the engine at all speeds. A fuel chamber vent hole is located near the top of the carburetor body to permit atmospheric pressure to act against the fuel in each chamber. This pressure assures an adequate fuel supply to the various operating systems of the engine. INDUCED LOW PRESSURE - ATMOSPHERIC AIR PRESSURE Air {low principle of a modern carburetor. Air/Fuel Mixture A suction effect is created each time the piston moves upward in the cylinder. This suction draws air through the throat of the carburetor. A restriction in the throat, called a venturi, controls air velocity and has the effect of reducing air pressure at this point. The difference in air pressures at the throat and in the fuel chamber, causes the fuel to be pushed out of metering jets extending down into the fuel chamber. When the fuel leaves the jets, it mixes with the air passing through the venturi. This air/fuel mixture should then be in the proper proportion for burning in the cylinder/s for maximum engine performance. In order to obtain the proper air/fuel mixture for all engine speeds, high and low speed jets are provided. These jets have adjustable needle valves which are used to compensate for changing atmospheric conditions. In almost all cases, the high-speed circuit has fixed high-speed jets that are not adjustable. Engine operation at sea level compared with performance at high altitudes is quite noticeable. A jet/altitude chart is provided in the Appendix for operation from sea level to above 7 500 ft (2,300m). A throttle valve controls the volume of air/fuel mixture drawn into the engine. A 0 I.. . NEEDLE GASKET 9 I , I SCREEN '. '. -----JET GASKET ..O -PLUG Exploded view of a double float system carburetor. INTRODUCTION 4-3 BAFFLE I-BOLT ..JET Exploded view of a single float system. cold engine requires a richer fuel mixture to start and during the brief period it is warming to normal operating temperature. A choke valve is placed ahead of the metering jets and venturi to provide the extra amount of air required for start and while the engine is cold. When this choke valve is closed, a very rich fuel mixture is drawn into the engine. The throat of the carburetor is usually referred to as the "barrel." Carburetors with single, double, or four barrels have individual metering jets, needle valves, throttle and choke plates for each barrel. Single and two barrel carburetors are fed by a single float and chamber. Choke valve location in the carburetor venturi. The choke valve on most carburetors covered in this manual is located in front of the venturi. 4-3 TROUBLESHOOTING The following paragraphs provide an orderly sequence of tests to pinpoint problems in the system. It is very rare for the carburetor by itself to cause failure of the engine to start. FUEL PROBLEMS Many times fuel system troubles are caused by a plugged fuel filter, a defective fuel pump, or by a leak in the line from the fuel tank to the fuel pump. A defective choke may also cause problems. WOULD YOU BELIEVE, a majority of starting troubles which are traced to the fuel system are the result of an empty fuel tank or aged, "sour", fuel. "SOUR" FUEL Under average conditions (temperate elirna tes), fuel will begin to breakdown in about four months. A gummy substance forms in the bottom of the fuel tank and in other areas. The filter screen between the tank and the carburetor and small passages in the carburetor will become clogged. The gasoline will begin to give off an odor similar to rotten eggs. Such a condition can cause the owner much frustration, time in cleaning components, and the expense of replacement or overhaul parts for the carburetor. Major parts found in carburetor repair kits. Even with the high price of fuel, removing gasoline that has been standing unused over a long period of time is still the easiest and least expensive preventative maintenance possible. In most cases, this old gas can be used without harmful effects in an automobile using regular gasoline. The gasoline preservative additive Quicksilver Gasoline Stabilizer and Conditioner, shown below, will keep the fuel Damaged piston, possibly caused by insufficient oil mixed with the fuel; using too-low an octane fuel; or Quicksilver Gasoline Stabilizer and Conditioner may using fuel that has "soured" (stood too long without a be used to prevent the fuel from "souring" for up to preservative added). twelve full months. TROUBLESHOOTING 4-5 "fresh" for up to twelve months. If this particular product is not available in your area, other similar additives are produced under various trade names. LEADED GASOLINE AND GASOHOL In the United States, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has slated a proposed national phase-out of leaded fuel, "Regular" gasoline, by 1988. Lead in gasoline boosts the octane rating (energy). Therefore, if the lead is removed, it must be replaced with another agent. Unknown to the general public, many refineries are adding alcohol in an effort to hold the octane rating. Alcohol in gasoline can have a deteriorating effect on certain fuel system parts. Seals can swell, pump check valves can swell, diaphragms distort, and other rubber or neoprene composition parts in the fuel system can be affected. Since 1980, the manufacturer has made every effort to use materials that will resist the alcohol being added to fuels. Fuels containing alcohol will slowly absorb moisture from the air. Once the moisture content in the fuel exceeds about 1/2 of 1% , it will separate from the fuel taking mixture will settle to the bottom of the fuel tank. The engine will fail to operate. Therefore, storage of this type of gasoline for use in marine engines is not recommended for more than just a few days. One temporary, but aggravating, solution to increase the octane of "Unleaded" fuel is to purchase some aviation fuel from the local airport. Add about 10 to 15 percent of the tank's capacity to the unleaded fuel. REMOVING FUEL FROM THE SYSTEM For many years there has been the widespread belief that simply shutting off the fuel at the tank and then running the engine until it stops is the proper procedure before storing the engine for any length of time. Right? WRONG. It is NOT possible to remove all of the fuel in the carburetor by operating the engine until it stops. Some fuel is trapped in the float chamber and other passages and in the line leading to the carburetor. The ONLY guaranteed method of removing ALL of the fuel is to take the time to remove the carburetor, and drain the fuel. the alcohol with it. This water/alcohol Comparison of a new (top) and worn (bottom) male fuel connector. The pins on the bottom connector are worn -smaller and tapered, therefore, the connector Female portion of the quick disconnect fitting ready will fail to maintain adequate fuel flow. to be mated with the male portion on the powerhead. 4-6 FUEL If the engine is operated with the fuel supply shut off until it stops, the fuel and oil mixture inside the engine is removed, leaving bearings, pistons, rings, and other parts with little protective lubricant, during long periods of storage. Proper procedure involves: Shutting off the fuel supply at the tank; disconnecting the fuel line at the tank; operating the engine until it begins to run ROUGH; then stopping the engine, which will leave some fuel/oil mixture inside; and finally removing and draining the carburetor. By disconnecting the fuel supply, all SMALL passages are cleared of fuel even though some fuel is left in the carburetor. A light oil should be put in the combustion chamber as instructed in the Owners Manual. On some model carburetors, the high-speed jet plug can be removed to drain fuel from the carburetor. For short periods of storage, simply running the carburetor dry may help prevent severe gum and varnish from forming in the carburetor. This is especially true during hot weather. Choke Problems When the engine is hot, the fuel system can cause starting problems. After a hot engine is shut down, the temperature inside ° the fuel bowl may rise to 200 F and cause the fuel to actually boil and vaporize in the bowl. All carburetors are vented to allow this gas or pressure to escape to the atmosphere. Sometimes, if a hot engine is restarted, a condition known as "vapor lock" may exist causing the engine to stall. The vaporized fuel escapes through the vents in the float bowl and starves the engine of Typical choke linkage set-up for a dual carburetor installation. fuel. As soon as sufficient fuel cooling takes place, the engine in most cases, can be started, but will stall again once the temperature rises to vaporize the fuel. One solution to a "vapor lock" condition is patience --wait for the powerhead to cool down to a normal operating temperature. If the choke should stick in the open position, the engine will be hard to start. If the choke should stick in the closed position, the engine will flood making it very difficult to start. In order for this raw fuel to vaporize enough to burn, considerable air must be added to lean out the mixture. Therefore, the only remedy is to remove the spark plugs; ground the leads; crank the engine about 10 times; clean the plugs; install the plugs again; and start the engine. If the needle valve and seat assembly is leaking, an excessive amount of fuel may Fouled spark plug, possibly caused by the operator's habit of overchoking or a malfunction holding the choke Choke valve location in the carburetor venturi. The closed. Either of these conditions delivered a too-rich choke valve on most carburetors covered in this manual fuel mixture to the cylinder. is located in front of the venturi. TROUBLESHOOTING 4-7 FUEL PUMP TEST CAUTION: Gasoline will be flowing in the engine area during this test. Therefore, Guard against fire by grounding the high-tension wire to prevent it from sparking. The high-tension wire between the coil/s and the distributor can be grounded by ei ther pulling it out of the coil and grounding it, or by connecting a jumper wire from the primary (distributor) side of the ignition coil to a good ground. An alternate safety method, and perhaps a better one, is to ground each spark plug lead. Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor. Place a suitable container over the end of the fuel line to catch the fuel discharged. Now, squeeze the primer bulb and observe if there is satisfactory flow of fuel from the line. If there is no fuel discharged from the line, the check valve in the squeeze bulb may be defective, or there may be a break or obstruction in the fuel line. If there is a good fuel flow, then crank the engine. If the fuel pump is operating Grounding the spark plug leads to the powerhead in preparation to making fuel flow tests. The grounding is NECESSARY to prevent a spark from igniting fuel being handled in the open. OHMMETER LEAD A choke solenoid may be tested with an ohmmeter. If the meter indicates continuity, the solenoid is satisfactory for further service. If continuity is not indicated, the unit cannot be repaired, it must be replaced. enter the intake manifold in the following manner: After the engine is shut down, the pressure left in the fuel line will force fuel past the leaking needle valve. This extra fuel will raise the level in the fuel bowl and cause fuel to overflow into the intake manifold. A continuous overflow of fuel into the intake manifold may be due to a sticking inlet needle or to a defective float which would cause an extra high level of fuel in the bowl and overflow into the intake maniold. Major parts of a complete outboard motor fuel system from the tank to the carburetor. 4-8 FUEL Testing the fuel pickup in the fuel tank AND operation of the squeeze bulb by observing fuel flow from the line disconnected at the fuel pump and discharged into a suitable container. Working the squeeze bulb and observing the fuel flow from the line diconnected at the carburetor and discharged into a suitable container. This verifies fuel flow through the fuel pump. (The two photographs in this column were taken with a smaller powerhead than those covered in this manual. However, the procedure is the same.) Common squeeze bulb used with outboard engine fuel systems. properly, a healthy stream of fuel should pulse out of the line. Continue cranking the engine and catching the fuel for about 15 pulses to determine if the amount of fuel decreases with each pulse or maintains a constant amount. A decrease in the discharge indicates a restriction in the line. If the fuel line is plugged, the fuel stream may stop. If there is fuel in the fuel tank but no fuel flows out of the fuel line while the engine is being cranked, the problem may be in one of four areas: 1-The line from the fuel pump to the carburetor may be plugged as already mentioned. 2-The fuel pump may be defective. 3-The line from the fuel tank to the fuel pump may be plugged; the line may be leaking air; or the squeeze bulb may be defective. If tests indicate a satisfactory fuel flow to the carburetor, but adequate fuel quantity is not reaching the cylinders, then the carburetor MUST be removed and serviced. 4-If the engine does not start even though there is adequate fuel flow from the fuel line, the fuel filter in the carburetor inlet may be plugged or the fuel inlet needle valve and the seat may be gummed together and prevent adequate fuel flow. FUEL LINE TEST Possible cause of fuel line problems may be deterioration of the inside lining of the fuel line which may cause some of the lining to develop a blockage similar to the action of a check valve. Therefore, if the fuel line appears the least bit questionable, replace the entire line. Another possible restriction in the fuel line may be caused by some heavy object lying on the line --a tackle box, etc. The fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump can be quickly tested by disconnecting the existing fuel line at the fuel pump and connecting a spare portable tank and fuel line. This simple substitution eliminates the fuel tank and fuel lines in the boat. Now, start the engine and check the performance. TROUBLESHOOTING 4-9 Jsing the proper tools to install a clamp aroWld the squeeze bulb check valve. If the problem has been corrected, the fuel system between the fuel pump inlet and the fuel tank is at fault. This area includes Many times, restrictions such as foreign material may be cleared from the fuel line using compressed air. Use CARE to be sure the open end of the hose is pointing clear to avoid personal injury to the eyes. A replacement squeeze bulb kit includes parts necessary to return this section of the fuel line to service. 4-12 FLEL take manifold close to the carburetor moun ting flanges. As soon as the ignition key is released, electrical current to the system is cutoff; the valve closes; and fuel through the valve stops. Troubleshooting the enrichener system is described in Chapter 7, beginning on Page 7 20. SPECIAL WORDS ON CARBURETOR "C" An "enrichment" valve is installed on the following powerheads equipped with Carburetor "C": 50hp and 60hp prior to 1991, all 70hp 3-Cylinder power heads, all 7 5hp, and 80hp 4-Cylinder powerheads. This type carburetor is equipped with a choke solenoid but not a choke shutter valve in the carburetor throat. An enrichment valve performs the same function as the choke shutter and is linked to the choke solenoid. The enrichment valve is a mechanical valve and should not be confused with an enrichener valve which is an electrically operated valve installed on larger horsepower late model powerheads. 4-5 2+2 SYSTEM WITH ACCELERATOR PUMP lOOHP AND ll5HP 4-CYLINDER POWERHEADS A 4-cylinder powerhead normally operates on all four cylinders. However, on the 1 OOhp and 115hp 4-cylinder powerhead, the manufacturer introduced a 2+2 concept. The principle of the 2+2 is to restrict the flow of fuel to the No. 3 and No. 4 cylinders, while the powerhead is idling. By restricting the fuel flow, the mixture of air/fuel becomes so lean it will not ignite and burn in the cylinders. With this arrangement, the No. 1 and No. 2 cylinders continue to operate in the normal manner, at idle speed, while the No. 3 and No. 4 cylinder are "along for the ride". The firing order for this powerhead is 13- 2-4. Therefore, at idle speed, every other cylinder fires to provide smooth operation and fuel economy. To meet the demand for sudden acceleration, a mechanical accelerator pump is built into the 2+2 system. Fuel Flow The fuel flow circuit for a powerhead equipped with the 2+2 system is slightly different from normal fuel flow on other powerheads. Fuel is drawn from the fuel tank through typical hose and hose connection joints by the fuel pump. Fuel is then routed from the pump through a large fuel filter to the No. 1 and No. 2 carburetors. This supply line also feeds the No. 3 and No. 4 carburetors. A tee fitting between the No. 2 and No. 3 carburetors routes fuel to an acceler f llo. 4 CARBURETOR An enrichener valve mounted on the port side of the powerhead replaces the choke circuit on other powerThe acceleration pump and fuel flow circuit for the heads. 2+2 fuel system, explained in the text. dix ator pump for the 2+2 system. From the accelerator pump, fuel is forced at a higher pressure through a small fuel filter, and then on to the No. 3 and No. 4 cylinders. Two spring loaded check valves, one for the No. 3 and the other for the No. 4 cylinder are installed in the cylinder block transfer ports. These valves only unseat at the higher fuel pressure and permit fuel to be sprayed into the two lower cylinders, from the injector nozzles at the transfer ports. This addi tiona! fuel will meet an acceleration demand. Excess fuel not used by the two lower cylinders is routed back to the normal fuel line through a brass restrictor which reduces fuel pressure before it is returned to the normal fuel circuit, as indicated on the accompanying flow diagram . Carburetor Differences All four carburetors are identical, except for a slight design modification on the two lower carburetors. The off-idle progression holes for these two lower carburetors have been relocated further from the powerhead. The end result of this new carburetor design is to delay the activation of the off-idle circuit until the throttle plate is moved to a position corresponding to 1800 rpm . At powerhead speeds above 1800 rpm , the two lower carburetors function normally. The upper carburetors have adjustable idle mixture screws. The idle mixture screw on the two lower carburetors is replaced with a premanently installed plug. The accelerator lXtmP of the 2+2 fuel system is mol111ted on the starboard side of the powerhead. CARBURETOR IDENTIFICATION 4-13 Therefore, anytime a carburetor is removed from the powerhead, the location MUST be identified to ENSURE it is installed back in its original position. As explained earlier, while the powerhead is operating at speeds below 1 800 rpm , only No. 1 and No. 2 cylinders fire normally. Cylinders No. 3 and No. 4 are supplied with a too lean air/fuel mixture to burn. However, this mixture does contain sufficient oil for adequate cylinder lubrication. Acceleration The purpose of the accelerator pump is to satisfy the increased demand for fuel for quick acceleration. The accelerator pump is a mechanically operated device, located on the starboard side of the powerhead, and is NOT any part of the carburetor accelerator circuit bearing the same name. The accelerator pump has an exposed plunger shaft on top. The end of this short shaft rides under the throttle cam. Therefore, the action of the pump is directly dependent on throttle position. When the operator demands a sudden quick acceleration from idle speed below 1800 rpm, the accelerator pump plunger is depressed one time by action of the throttle cam . 4-6 CARBURETOR IDENTIFICATION Four different type carburetors are used on Mercury powerheads covered in this manual. Complete detailed procedures for each carburetor are outlined in a separate section of this chapter. To determine which carburetor is installed on your powerhead, check the table in the Appendix, under outboard model and manufactured year. The carburetor identification used in the Appen and throughout this book and service procedures for each are as follows: A Side bowl --back drag carburetor covered in Section 4-7. B Integral fuel pump carburetor with enrichment --covered in Section 4-8. C Center square bowl carburetor --cov ..red in Section 4-9. D Series WME center square bowl carburetor --covered in section 4-10. Service procedures for the fuel pump are outlined in Section 4-11. Service procedures for the oil injection system are outlined in Section 4-12. Filters used with the side-bowl Type "A" carburetor. The two on the left are obsolete and should be replaced with the new type on the far right. remove the tube unless absolutely necessary. Only check to make sure it is tight. Use the PROPER size screwdriver and remove the main fuel jet and gasket. 10-Remove the float assembly by removing the two screws from the top of the carburetor. Lift the float assembly from the carburetor body, and then remove the gasket. 11-Turn the float cover upside down and notice the assembly has two levers. Remove the top lever pin and hinge back the other lever. Now, remove the inlet needle from the needle seat. Use the proper size socket and remove the needle seat. This seat has a standard right-hand thread. Reach into the body with a small punch and gently remove the gasket. 12-To remove the Welch plug on the side of the carburetor, use a sharp punch to A GOOD WORD: Further disassembly of the carburetor is not necessary. CLEANING AND INSPECTING NEVER dip rubber parts, plastic parts, diaphragms, or pump plungers in carburetor cleaner. These parts should be cleaned ONLY in solvent, and then blown dry with compressed air. Place all of the metal parts in a screentype tray and dip them in carburetor cleaner until they appear completely clean, then blow them dry with compressed air. Blow out all of the passages in the castings with compressed air. Check all of the parts and passages to be sure they are not clogged or contain any deposits. NEVER use a piece of wire or any type of pointed instrument to clean drilled passages or calibrated holes in a carburetor. puncture the center of the plug, and then pry out the plug A new Welch plug is ONLY available in a carburetor overhaul kit. PLUG SCREW SERVICE CARBURETOR "A" 4-17 SCREW STRA INER COVER GASKET STRA INER COVER GASKET -LARGE COVER SCREW COVER SCREW -LONG SCREV L::ASHER GASKET STOP .. LEVERINLET SEAT IDLE TUBE INLET NEEDLE, SEAT & FLOAT LEVER -UPPER 0 I GASKET SHAFTFLOAT LEVER -LOWER 0 ___.----J CARBURETOR ASSEHBL Y PlUG .. Q SCREW PLUG ( GASKET GASKET MAIN FUEL JET Exploded view of a side bowl -back drag carburetor showing arrangement of major parts. This carburetor is identified as an "N' carburetor in the text and Appendix. GOOD WORN WORN GOOD Needle and seat arrangement on the carburetor covered in this section, showing a wom and new needle for comparison. Move the throttle shaft back-and-forth to check for wear. If the shaft appears to be too loose, replace the complete throttle body because individual replacement parts are NOT available. Inspect the main body, airhorn, and venturi cluster gasket surfaces for cracks and burrs which might cause a leak. If a hollow float is used, check to be sure it does not contain any fluid. Check the float for deterioration. Check to be sure the float spring has not been stretched. If any part of the float is damaged, the unit must be Carburetor idle mixture adjustment needles. The top needle is wom and unfit for service. The bottom needle is new. replaced. Check the float arm needle contacting surface and replace the float if this surface has a groove worn in it. Inspect the tapered section of the idle adjusting needles and replace any that have developed a groove. Most of the parts that should be replaced during a carburetor overhaul are included in overhaul kits available from your local marine dealer. One of these kits will contain a matched fuel inlet needle and seat. This combination should be replaced each time the carburetor is disassembled as a precaution against leakage. FLOAT All rubber and plastic parts MUST be removed before carburetor parts are placed in a basket to be submerged in carburetor cleaner. SERVICE CARBURETOR 4-19 LEVER SEAT GASKET SEAT PIN INLET NEEDLE ASSEMBLING 1-If the Welch plug was removed, insert a new plug in position, and then tap it into place. Seal the outside edge of the plug with Gasketcinch, or equivalent. 2-Check the spring on the top of the float. If it does not extend out 3/32" (2.40 mm) the float MUST be replaced. Install the float onto the float pin, and then slide the float into the carburetor body. 3-Insert a new needle seat gasket into place. Thread the inlet seat into the body and tighten the seat with the proper size socket to a torque value of 60 in.-lbs (6.78Nm). Discharge a drop of oil into the center of the seat, and then insert the inlet needle into the seat. Hinge over the lever that was not removed on top of the inlet measurement should be 13/32" .. 1 /64" (10.32mm .. 0.40mm). CAREFULLY bend the primary lever as required to obtain the correct measurement. Float Drop Adjustment 5-Turn the float bowl cover upright. Check to be sure the needle moves freely on the actuating primary lever and that it is not sticking in the seat. Hold the bowl cover upright and measure the distance between the primary and secondary levers. This distance should be 1/4" (6.35mm). CAREFULLY bend the secondary lever stop tang to obtain the proper measurement. 6-Place a NEW gasket onto the float bow 1. Then place the float into the float chamber. The vent hole in the cover MUST be installed toward the carburetor mounting flange. Invert the carburetor and check the float for free movement. needle. Install the other lever on top of the lever in place, and then install the hinge pin. Float Lever Adjustment If-Turn the float bowl cover upside down. Measure the distance from the face of the shoulder to the secondary lever. This FlOAT BOWlCOVER (INVERTED) 7-Place the float bowl cover over the flea t. Install the two screws and lockwashers, and tighten them alternately. 8-Position the large gasket over the tower of the float bowl cover. Install the filter screen. Insert a NEW gasket inside the strainer cover. Place the strainer cover over the float bowl cover. ONE WORD: If the strainer cover was left attached to the fuel line during disassembly, and is therefore, still on the engine, then bypass the next instruction. The cover will be installed in Step 14. BE SURE the strainer cover is setting squarely on the float bowl cover, tower assembly on the float bowl cover will be broken when the strainer bolt is tightened. because if it is not positioned properly, the check the Jet Size/Elevation Chart in the Appendix. 9-Slide a NEW gasket onto the strainer bolt, and then install the bolt into the float bowl cover. 10-Thread the main nozzle into the bottom of the carburetor, and then tighten it securely using the PROPER size screwdriver. Install the nozzle plug. Use a wood toothpick or Mercury special tool (highspeed jet). ONE WORD: Main fuel (high-speed) jet size recommendations are intended as a guide. If any change in size is to be made, CARBURETOR "A" 4-21 The idle restriction tube MUST contact the front of the venturi tube. 11-Slide a NEW gasket onto the main fuel jet. (On some models, this gasket is not used.) Use the PROPER size screwdriver and install the jet into the carburetor body. Position a NEW gasket onto the 7 /16" brass plug, and then install the plug into the carburetor body. 12-Slide a NEW gasket onto the idle tube. (On some models, this gasket is not used.) Thread the tube into the top of the carburetor and tighten it securely. When properly installed, the idle tube MUST touch the front of the venturi tube. 13-Position the spring over the idle adjusting screw, and then SLOWLY thread it into the carburetor body, until you can feel it seat. DO NOT tighten the screw or you will damage the tip. Now, as a preliminary adjustment, back the screw out 1 to H full turns. Check the throttle shutters to be sure they do not bend in the carburetor venturi. INSTALLATION 14-Install NEW carburetor flange gaskets. Attach the carburetor assembly to the crankcase. Tighten the attaching hardware alternately to a torque value of 100in lb (11 N m). Connect the fuel lines to the strainer cover of the carburetor/s. If the strainer cover was not installed in Step 8, then place the cover over the tower assemb ly of the carburetor. BE SURE the strainer cover is setting squarely on the float bowl cover, because if it is not positioned properly, the tower assembly on the float bowl cover will be broken when the strainer bolt is tightened. Replace the choke valves and springs by screwing in the choke lever pivot pins. Install the choke levers and the choke lever rod on the choke lever pivot pins. Insert the cotter pins to secure the rod to the lever pivot. BE SURE to insert the choke lever pins into the choke springs and the slot in the choke valve while installing it on the pivot pin. Connect the choke rod, positioning the spring on the choke rod pin. Secure the rod to the carburetor adjustment screw. 15-Install the throttle pickup bracket and the throttle pickup lever with the mounting screw on the lower carburetor, sliding the throttle pickup lever into the throttle valve shaft slot of the top carburetor. Check to be sure the cam on the carburetor is in front of the cam on the magneto plate. On a single carburetor installation, connect the throttle and choke linkage. Synchronizing To synchronize the fuel and ignition systems, see Chapter 6. SERVICE CARBURETOR "A" 4-23 ADJUSTMENTS FIRST A WORD: Before fine carburetor adjustments can be properly made, the following conditions must exist: a. The correct engine-propeller combination must be used. b. The power unit must be in forward gear. c. The lower unit must be in the water. d. The engine must be warmed to normal operating temperature. Idle-Speed Adjustment 16-After the engine has been warmed to operating temperature, turn the idle speed adjusting screw on the stop bracket until the engine idles at approximately 650 rpm in forward gear. Idle Mixture Adjustment 17-Turn the adjusting screw CLOCKWISE until the engine fires evenly and rpm begin to increase. Continue turning the adjusting screw until the mixture is so lean The main (high-speed) jet is not adjustable, but it is available in varying sizes. The jet may be replaced if the engine is to be operated at different elevations. that the rpm begins to drop and the engine begins to misfire. Set the adjusting screw halfway between the rich and lean points. ADVICE: It is better to have the mixture set slightly on the rich side, rather than too lean. High-Speed Adjustment The main (high-speed) fuel jet is not adjustable. If the engine is to be operated at elevations above 4000 ft., replace the main metering jet as indicated in the Jet Size/Elevation Chart in the Appendix. Two different type strainer covers are used on the Type "A" carburetor covered in this section. One uses a 3/8" cap screw securing the strainer to the carburetor, the other has two small screws on either side of the fuel inlet connection. Both have the fuel inlet line connected to the strainer cover. 4-8 INTEGRAL FUEL PUMP CARBURETOR -REFERENCED "B" IN THE APPENDIX REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLING This section provides complete detailed procedures for removal, disassembly, cleaning and inspecting, assembling including bench adjustments, installation, and operating adjustments for the integral fuel pump carburetor. To synchronize the fuel and ignition systems, see Chapter 6. This new carburetor has an integral fuel pump, which should be overhauled every time the carburetor is disassembled. 1-Remove the battery leads from the battery terminals. Remove the hood assembly. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel SERVICE CARBURETOR '13" 4-25 IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT .. SCREW tank. Disconnect the choke cable from the choke lever. Remove the cap screw and spacer securing the choke cable to the carburetor. Remove the fuel line from the inlet cover. An alternative is to remove the screw securing the inlet cover to the carburetor and leave the fuel line attached. 2-Remove the two nuts attaching the carburetor to the manifold, and then remove the carburetor. 3-Remove the four screws holding the fuel pump strainer body to the carburetor. Remove the gaskets and diaphragm. Remove the fuel pump body and gaskets. 4-Remove the bolt securing the float bowl to the carburetor casting. OBSERVE and REMEMBER there is a gasket under the bolt and one between the float bow 1 and the casting. Withdraw the float retaining pin, and then lift off the float assembly. Lift out the inlet needle valve and spring. DO Carburetor idle mixture adjustment needles. The top needle is worn and unfit for service. The bottom needle is new. NOT attempt to remove the needle valve seat. This seat is pressed into the carburetor body. 5-Remove the main fuel {high-speed) jet. A gasket is not used under this jet. DO NOT attempt to remove the main nozzle even though it has a screwdriver slot. The boost venturi is very difficult to install if the main nozzle has been removed. 6-Remove the idle mixture adjusting screw and spring. 7-Remove the plug screw, and then unscrew the idle tube. Slide the gasket free of the idle tube. GOOD WORN WORN GOOD Needle and seat arrangement on the carburetor covered in this section, showing a worn and new needle for comparison. CLEANING AND INSPECTING NEVER dip rubber parts, plastic parts, diaphragms, or pump plungers in carburetor cleaner. These parts should be cleaned ONLY in solvent, and then blown dry with compressed air. Place all of the metal parts in a screen type tray and dip them in carburetor cleaner untH they appear completely clean, then blow them dry with compressed air. ••• • 14 FUEL PUMP 8 •PART of • II Blow out all of the passages in the castings with compressed air. Check all of the parts and passages to be sure they are not clogged or contain any deposits. NEVER use a piece of wire or any type of pointed instrument to clean drilled passages or calibrated holes in a carburetor. Move the throttle shaft back-and-forth to check for wear. If the shaft appears to be too loose, replace the complete throttle body because individual replacement parts are NOT available. 1-Screw 2 -Screw 3 -Washer 4 -Inlet Cover 5-Gasket6-Strainer7 -Screen Strainer Body CARBURETOR Gl• ..16 8-Pump Diaphragm 9 -Gasket • • (Inside Dotted 10 -Fuel Pump Body Lines) 11 -Check Valve Diaphragm 12 -Gasket 13 -Throttle Shaft Linkage 9 14 -Retaining Screw 15 -Throttle Shaft 16 -Screw (Plug) 17 -Idle Tube 18 -Gasket 19 -Choke Shaft 20 -Spring 21 -Gasket 22 -Screw 23 -Throttle Shutter 24 -Carburetor Body 25 -Spring 26 -Idle Mixture Screw 27 -Spring 36 2829 -Main Nozzle .._. -Fulcrum Pin 38 It 31 32 30 -Float 31 -Gasket 32 -Fuel Bowl 33 -Gasket 34 -Screw 35 -Inlet Needle and Spring 36 -Main Fuel Jet 37 -Relief Valve 38 -Spring 39sCrews (21 40 -Choke Shutter 41 -Venturi ._34 Exploded view of an integral fuel pump carburetor showing arrangement of major parts. Fuel pump parts are to the left of the dotted line. This carburetor is identified as a "B" carburetor in the text and Appendix. SERVICE CARBURETOR 'B" 4-27 Inspect the main body, airhorn, and venturi cluster gasket surfaces for cracks and burrs which might cause a leak. Check the float for deterioration. If a hollow float is used, check to be sure it does not contain any fluid. Check to be sure the float spring has not been stretched. If any part of the float is damaged, the unit must be replaced. Check the float arm needle contacting surface and replace the float if this surface has a groove worn in it. Inspect the tapered section of the idle adjusting needles and replace any that have developed a groove. Most of the parts that should be replaced during a carburetor overhaul are included in an overhaul kit available from your local marine dealer. Check the jet sizes with a drill of the proper size. ALWAYS hold the drill in a pin vise to avoid enlarging the jet orifice. Refer to the Carburetor Jet Size/Elevation Chart in the Appendix for the proper size for your engine, carburet or, and anticipated elevation of operation. ASSEMBLING 1-Install the main fuel (high-speed) jet. As mentioned during removal, a gasket is not used under this jet. 2-Install a NEW inlet valve needle and spring to reduce the chances of a leak. Install a NEW float bowl gasket. 3-Install the float, and then insert the float retaining pin to secure the float in place. Float Level Adjustment 4-Hold the carburetor as shown, and measure the distance to the bottom edge of the float. This measurement should be 1/4" .:!:. 1/64" (6.35 .:!:. 0.4-0mm). CAREFULLY bend the float needle actuating lever to obtain the correct measurement. GI\SKET Float Drop Adjustment 5-Hold the carburetor upside down, as shown, to allow the float to drop to its lowest point. Measure the distance from the bottom of the float to the top of the main fuel (high-speed) jet. This distance should be from 1/64" to 1/32" (0.40 to 0.80mm). CAREFULLY bend the float tang to obtain the correct measurement. 6-Check to be sure the float bowl gasket is in place properly. Position the float bowl gasket on the carburetor casting. Install the float bowl. 7-Slide a NEW gasket onto the retaining bolt, and then install the bolt onto the float bowl cover. 8-Position a NEW fuel pump gasket onto the carburetor casting taking care to index it over the alignment dowel. Install a NEW valve diaphragm. OBSERVE the three valve flaps, two for inlet control and one for outlet. 9-Install the valve body with the alignment dowel entering the hole in the casting properly. 10-Position a NEW gasket on the valve body. Install a NEW pump diaphragm . 11-Install the fuel pump strainer body and secure it in place with the four retaining screws. Tighten the screws EVENLY and SERVICE CARBURETOR 't3" 4-29 PUMP _D IAPHRAH a little-at-a-time. Install the filter screen and a NEW gasket. 12-Slide a NEW gasket onto the idle tube and then thread it into place. Install the plug screw over the idle tube. 13-Slowly thread the idle mixture adjusting screw into the carburetor body until you can feel it seat. DO NOT tighten the screw or you will damage the tip. Now, as a preliminary adjustment, back it out 1-1/4 turns. 14-Place a NEW flange gasket in position on the intake manifold. Check to be sure the two crankcase vacuum port holes are aligned with the holes in the casting. If this gasket is not installed PROPERLY, the fuel pump will NOT function. INSTALLATION 15-Place the carburetor in position on the intake manifold. Install and tighten the two carburetor retaining nuts alternately to a torque value of lOOin lb (llNm). Install the fuel pump inlet cover. Slide a NEW lock washer onto the retaining screw, and then install and tighten the screw. If the fuel line was removed from the inlet cover, install the hose and tighten the hose clamps. 16-Install the cap screw and spacer securing the choke cable to the carburetor. Connect the choke cable to the lever. Connect the fuel line to the tank. Activate the fuel line squeeze bulb several times. Check delivery of fuel to the carburetor and the lines and their fittings for possible leaks. Connect the battery leads. Synchronizing To synchronize the fuel and ignition systems, see Chapter 6. ADJUSTMENTS FIRST A WORD: Before fine carburetor adjustments can be properly made, the following conditions must exist: a. The correct engine-propeller combination must be used. b. The power unit must be in forward gear. c. The lower unit must be in the water. d. The engine must be warmed to normal operating temperature. Idle Mixture Adjustment 17-After the above conditions have been met, including the engine run until it has reached operating temperature, set the idle mixture screw 1-1/2 turns open from a lightly seated position. Now, with the engine running, SLOWLY turn the idle mixture screw counterclockwise until the affected cylinders start to load up or begin to fire unevenly, due to an over-rich mixture. SLOWLY turn the idle mixture screw clockwise until the cylinders fire evenly and the engine rpm increase. Continue turning the screw clockwise until the engine rpm drop off and the engine begins to misfire. Now, turn the idle mixture screw COUNTERCLOCKWISE halfway between lean and rich position. Favor the rich side. SOME ADVICE: Do not adjust to a leaner position than necessary. It is better to have the mixture set slightly on the rich side, rather than too lean. Too lean a mixture is often the cause of hard starting. MORE ADVICE: If the engine hesitates during acceleration after adjusting the idle mixture, the mixture is set too lean and should be changed to the richer side until engine acceleration is smooth. Idle Speed Adjustment 18-After the conditions listed at the beginning of this ADJUSTMENT section have been met, and the idle mixture adjustment has been properly made, as described in the previous step, then adjust the idle speed stop screw on the stop bracket until the engine idles at the recommended rpm given in the Tune-up Specifications in the Appendix. Continue running the engine in forward gear at the recommended wide open throttle range (WOT) to clear the engine, and then recheck the idle speed. SERVICE CARBURETOR "C'' 4-31 4-9 CENTER SQUARE BOWL CARBURETOR REFERENCED "C" IN APPENDIX This section provides complete detailed procedures for removal, disass..mbl.., cle..ning and inspecting, assemblmg mcludmg bench adjustments, installation, and operating adjustments for the square bowl ..a..b..retor. To synchronize the fuel and 1gmt10n systems, see Chapter 6. REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLING 1-Remove the battery leads from the battery terminals. Remove the front engine cover. Take off the wrap around cowl cover. 2-Take time to identify each carburetor to ensure each will be installed back in its original position. Disconnect the throttle and choke linkage from each carburetor. 4-32 FL£L 3-Disconnect the fuel line from the engine. Remove the hose clamps on each fuel line to each carburetor. Remove the fuel line from each carburetor. 4-Remove the attaching nuts securing each carburetor to the intake manifold. Ren; ove each carburetor from the engine. Smce the carburetors are identical, the following procedures are to be repeated for each carburetor. 5-Remove the main jet plug located in the bottom of the carburetor bowl. NOTE that the main (high-speed) jet is located inside the plug. The jet may be removed ' using the PROPER size screwdriver. 6-Turn the carburetor upside down and remove the four screws securing the bowl to the body. Remove the bowl, and then remove and DISCARD the bowl-to-body gas ket. SERVICE CARBURETOR "C' 4-33 7-OBSERVE that the float is a double ® unit with two hinge pins. Withdraw both hinge pins by pushing each toward the OUTER edge of the carburetor. After the pins are free, lift the float from the carburetor body. 8-Remove the pin securing the float lever to the carburetor body by pushing the pin toward the backside of the carburetor. Remove the lever. 9-Withdraw the inlet needle from its seat. Remove the seat and the metal gasket installed below the seat. 10-Remove the fuel inlet hose fitting. Check the filter screen inside the hole. Remove the screen. The factory does not recommend using a filter in the carburetor. 11-Remove the nozzle in the center of the carburetor body and at the same time observe that the venturi in the bore will now be loose. After the nozzle is out, remove the venturi from the carburetor bore. 12-Remove the screw and lockwasher securing the enrichment valve assembly in the carburetor. This screw is located on the port side of the carburetor. Hold the en richment valve and withdraw it straight out of the carburetor body. 13Remove the throttle return spring, flat washer, and rubber seal from the bottom side of the carburetor. 14Remove the idle needle from the starboard forward side of the carburetor. Notice how the needle comes out at an angle. 15Remove the fuel bowl vent jet from the port side. A GOOD WORD: Further disassembly of the carburetor is not neccessary i'1 order to clean it properly. 4-34 FL£L CLEANING AND INSPECTING NEVER dip rubber parts, plastic parts, diaphragms, or pump plungers in carburetor cleaner. These parts should be cleaned ONLY in solvent, and then blown dry with compressed air. Place all of the metal parts in a screentype tray and dip them in carburetor cleaner until they appear completely clean, then blow them dry with compressed air. Blow out all of the passages in the castings with compressed air. Check all of the parts and passages to be sure they are not clogged or contain any deposits. NEVER use a piece of wire or any type of pointed instrument to clean drilled passages or calibrated holes in a carburetor. Move the throttle shaft back-and-forth to check for wear. If the shaft appears to be too loose, replace the complete throttle body because individual replacement parts are NOT available. Inspect the main body, airhorn, and venturi cluster gasket surfaces for cracks and burrs which might cause a leak. Check the float for deterioration. If hollow floats are used, check to be sure they do not contain any fluid. Check to be sure the float spring has not been stretched. If any part of the GOOD BAD BAD Three carburetor idle adjustment needles lined-up for comparison. The far left needle is new, the other two are worn and unfit for further service. Remove and DO NOT replace this filter screen. The manufacturer has determined the screen is too difficult to locate and actually it is not necessary. float is damaged, the unit must be replaced. Check the float arm needle contacting surface and replace the float if this surface has a groove worn in it. Inspect the tapered section of the idle adjusting needles and replace any that have developed a groove. Most of the parts that should be replaced during a carburetor overhaul are included in an overhaul kit available from your local marine dealer. This kit will also contain a matched fuel inlet needle and seat. This combination should be replaced each time the carburetor is disassembled as a precaution against leakage. Check the jet sizes with a drill of the proper size. ALWAYS hold the drill in a pin GOOD WORN WORN GOOD Needle and seat arrangement on the carburetor covered in this section, showing a worn and new needle for comparison. SERVICE CARBURETOR "C" 4-3 5 vise to avoid enlarging the jet orifice. Refer to the Carburetor Jet Size/Elevation Chart in the Appendix for the proper size for your engine, carburetor, and anticipated elevation of operation. Examine the throttle shaft for wear and the throttle shutter plates for damage. CD.----------- GD.-----------• ' 1 -Carburetor Body 2 -Fuel Bowl Vent Jet 3 -Inlet Needle and Seat Assembly 4 -Inlet Needle Seat Gasket 5-Venturi 6-Nozzle 7 -Idle Mixture Screw 8 -Idle Mixture Screw Spring 9-Hinge Pin 1 0 -Float Lever -----------® 11 -Float 12 -Fuel Bowl 13 -Fuel Bowl Gasket 14 -Screw with Lockwasher 15 -Main Jet Plug 16 -Main Jet 17 -Main Jet Plug Gasket 18 -Fuel Inlet Screen 19 -Welch Plug (9/16" ) 20 -Throttle Shaft 21 -Throttle Shutter Plate 22 -Screw with Lockwasher 23 -Rubber Seal 24 -Flat Washer 25 -Throttle Return Spring 26 -Enrichment Valve Assembly 27 -Screw with Lockwasher ----------@ 28 -Welch Plug (7116" ) 29 -carburetor Flange Gasket Exploded drawing of a center square bowl carburetor showing arrangement of major parts. This carburetor is identified as Carburetor "C• in the text and Appendix. 4-36 Fl.EL ASSEMBLING 1-Install the fuel bowl vent jet into the port side of the carburetor and tighten it securely. 2-Turn the carburetor upside down. Slide the rubber seal onto the throttle shaft with the lip TOWARD the carburetor. OBSERVE there are two sizes of springs to be installed onto the throttle shaft of the carbur ..tors. AL WA ..S install the strongest sprmg, the one with the largest diameter . Wire, onto the top mounted carburetor on ALL model engines. Slide the flat washer and throttle return spring onto the shaft. Hold the shutter plate in the closed position, and attach the throttle return spring. SERVICE CARBURETOR "C'' 4-37 3-Slide the spring onto the idle tube. CAREFULLY thread the idle tube into place on the starboard side of the carburetor until you feel it just barely seat. Now, as a preliminary adjusment, back the screw on the end of the tube out one complete turn. 4-Install and position the enrichment valve assembly into the carburetor body. Secure the assembly in place with the screw and lockwasher. Make sure the spring arm is on the top of the square part of the carburetor. 5-Insert the venturi into the front of the carburetor and into the bore. The rounded edge must be installed into the carburetor towards the rear of the carburetor. 6-Install the nozzle through the top of the carburetor and into the venturi. The venturi is now held in place by the nozzle. Tighten the nozzle securely. 7-Position a NEW metal gasket onto the carburetor body at the inlet needle seat hole. Install the inlet needle seat, with rubber insert, into place and tighten the seat securely. Slide the needle into the seat. 8-Position the float lever between the posts of the carburetor, and then slide the hinge pin into place from the rear of the carburetor. Use a flat end punch and seat the hinge pin until the knurled end of the pin is flush or within 1/32" (0.80mm) from the side of the post. 9-Slide the float into place between the posts of the carburetor. Insert both hinge pins through the posts from the outside edge. 10-Use a flat end punch to push the pins into the posts until the knurled end of each pin is flush or with 1/32" (0.80mm) from the side of the post. Remove and DO NOT replace this filter screen. The manufacturer has determined the screen is too difficult to locate and actually it is not necessary. INSTALLATION 16Position a NEW gasket in place on the intake manifold. Install the carburetor onto 4-38 Fl£L Float Level Bench Adjustment 11-Turn the carburetor upside down with the floats resting on the inlet needle. Measure the distance from the base of the carburetor to the bottom edge of the float. This measured distance must be 11/16" (1 7.46mm). CAREFULLY bend the float lever to obtain the correct measurement. 12-With the carburetor still upside down, position a NEW gasket onto the body. 13-Place the fuel bowl in position and secure it with the four attaching screws. 14-Install the main jet into the plug, if it was removed. Use a NEW gasket and install the plug into the carburetor bowl. 15-The factory does not recommend replacing the fuel filter. Install the fuel hose fitting. the manifold in the same position from which it was removed. Each carburetor should have been identified as instructed during the removal procedures. Secure the carburetor in place with the retaining nuts. Tighten the nuts alternately to a torque value of 100in lb (11 Nm). 17-Assemble and install the other carburetors in a similar manner. Connect the manual choke to the choke rod. Connect all of the fuel lines to the carburetors and tighten the clamps securely. Connect the fuel line from the fuel tank. Activate the fuel line squeeze bulb several times and check the carburetors and fuel lines for leaks. Connect the throttle and choke linkage to and between the carburetors. Connect the battery leads to the battery. Synchronizing To synchronize the fuel and ignition systems, see Chapter 6. SERVICE CARBURETOR "C" 4-39 OPERATING ADJUSTMENTS FIRST A FEW WORDS Before fine carburetor adjustments can be properly made, the following conditions must exist: a. The correct engine-propeller combination must be used. b. The power unit must be in forward gear. c. The lower unit must be in the water. d. The engine must be warmed to normal Carburetor Jet Size/Elevation Chart in the Appendix. Spark advance change is NOT recommended for changes in elevation. In order to obtain proper engine rpm at higher elevation, a lower pitch propeller is suggested. operating temperature. e. Main fuel jet size recommendations are intended as a guide only. If in doubt, try a size larger or smaller. Refer to the Location of principle carburetor adjustments. Detailed adjustment procedures are covered in Chapter 6. 4-40 FLEL Square-bowl Type "C" carburetors. The unit on the left MUST be installed as the top carburetor because of unique linkage arrangement. High-Speed Adjustment The main fuel jet (high-speed) is changeable but not adjustable. Refer to the Carburetor Jet Size/Elevation Chart in the Appendix. Idle Mixture Adjustment 18-After the conditions have been met as listed in the first portion of this step, including the engine run until it has reached operating temperature, set the idle mixture screw one turn open from the lightly seated position. Now, with the engine operating at idle speed (7 50 to 800 rpm), SLOWLY turn the idle mixture screw counterclockwise until the affected cylinder starts to load up or fires unevenly due to the over-rich mixture. SLOWLY turn the idle mixture screw clockwise until the affected cylinder fires evenly and the engine rpm increases. High-speed jet and gasket. SOME ADVICE: Do not adjust to a leaner position than necessary. It is better to have the mixture set slightly on the rich side, rather than too lean. Too lean a mixture is often the cause of hard starting. MORE ADVICE: If the engine hesitates during acceleration after adjusting the idle mixture, the mixture is set too lean and should be changed to the richer side until engine acceleration is smooth. Idle Speed Adjustment 19-After the conditions listed at the beginning of this ADJUSTMENT section have been met, and the idle mixture adjustment has been properly made, as described in the previous step, then adjust the idle speed stop screw on the stop bracket until the engine idles at the recommended rpm given in the Tune-up Specifications in the Appendix. Continue running the engine in forward gear at the recommended wide open throttle (WOT) range to clear the engine, and then recheck the idle speed. Install the wrap around and front engine covers. 4-10SERIES WME CENTER SQUARE BOWL CARBURETOR REFERENCED "On IN APPENDIX This section provides complete detailed procedures for removal, disassembly, cleaning and inspecting, assembling including bench adjustments, installation, and operating adjustments for the Series WME square bowl carburetor, identified as Carburetor "0" in the Appendix. This carburetor is \nstalled on 3-cylinder 50hp (1991 and on), 60hp (1991 and on), 70hp, 75hp, 80hp, 90hp, and 4-cylinder 1 OOhp and 115hp power heads. To synchronize the fuel and ignition systems, see Chapter 6. Replacement Carburetors If a carburetor is no longer serviceable, the replacement carburetor must bear the same series number as the original. This number is stamped on the top of the carburetor mounting flange. On some very early models, this number will be found on the face of the air box mounting flange. Series WME-23 carburetors are used on 50hp powerheads with a standard 0.052 main jet size. Series WME-22 carburetors are used on 60hp powerheads with a standard 0.070 main jet size. Series WME-7 carburetors are used on 70hp powerheads with a standard 0.070 main jet size. Series WME-9 carburetors are used on 80hp power heads with a standard 0.064 main jet size. Series WME-10 carburetors are used on 90hp powerheads with a standard 0.072 main jet size. SERVICE CARBURETOR '1()" 4-41 The carburetor used on the 50hp powerhead has a 0.92 bowl vent jet. The carburetor used on the 60hp powerhead has a .090 bowl vent jet. Each of the carburetors installed on 70hp, 7 5hp, 80hp, and 90hp power heads have 0.094 bowl vent jets and are interchangeable if the standard jets are changed to the correct value. If the top carburetor is being replaced, the old fuel bowl can be reused. Series WME-11 carburetors are used on 100hp and 115hp powerheads with a standard 0.054 main jet size and no bowl vent jet.. The manufacturer and Seloc do not recommend a Series WME-11 be used to replace either a Series WME-8, Series WME-9, or Series WME-10 carburetor. If replacing a Series WME-11 carburetor, be sure to specify the carburetor location to the parts person, because the lower two carburetors do not have an idle circuit and therefore they do not have an adjustable idle mixture screw. The opening has a nonremoveable plug installed at the factory. REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLING CARBURETOR ''D" Check to be sure the carburetor /s being serviced are identified as Carburetor "D" from the Appendix and identifying illustrations at the beginning of this chapter. Only by proper carburetor identification can the reader be assured the correct procedures are being performed. 1-Remove the battery leads from the battery terminals. Remove the front engine Carburetor "D" removed from the powerhead and ready for an overhaul. 4-42 FLEL cover. Take off the wrap around cowl cover. Remove the air box. 2-Take time to identify each carburetor to ensure each will be installed back in its original position, because each carburetor is DIFFERENT. a-Each carburetor has slightly different linkage. b-Only the top and second carburetors installed on lOOhp or 115hp powerheads have an adjustable idle screw. The third and bottom carburetors have a non-removeable plug in place of the idle screw. This plug is clearly identified with a colored sealer, is preset at the factory, and MUST not be disturbed. c-The fuel bowl of the top carburetor is unique from the others. The enrichener valve is fed by fuel from only the top carburetor float bowl. Disconnect the throttle linkage from each carburetor. Disconnect the fuel line from the engine. Remove the hose clamps on each fuel line to each carburetor. Remove the fuel line from each carburetor. Remove the attaching nuts securing each carburetor to the intake manifold. Remove each carburetor from the powerhead. Apart from the specific differences mentioned above, which in most cases do not affect service procedures, the carburetors are identical, the following procedures are to be repeated for each carburetor. Where the differences affect service procedures, they will be clearly identified. SPECIAL WORDS This carburetor does not have a traditional choke system. Instead, the choke function is performed by an enrichener system fed from the fuel bowl of the top carburetor. The extra fuel needed for cold powerhead startup is supplied to the intake manifold by an electrically operated device called the enrichener valve. Service procedures for this system are outlined in detail in Chapter 7, beginning on Page 7-20. VERY IMPORTANT WORDS Notice the application of Red sealant on certain adjustment screws or plugs. This sealant was applied at the factory and is the manufacturer's method of instructing anyone servicing the carburetor not to DISTURB the screw or plug. The sealant is not affected by carburetor cleaner and should remain in place on the plug or screw and the carburetor for the entire useful life of the carburetor. 3-Back out the idle mixture screw. If servicing a 4-cylinder powerhead, the idle mixture screw on the two lower carburetors exist, but is NOT adjustable and must NOT be disturbed, as just described in the "Very Important Words". Red sealant applied to screws or plugs are the Jilanufacturer's method of giving the message: "DO NOT DISI'URB". SERVICE CARBURETOR "D" 4-43 SCREW & LOCKWASHER (2 PLCS) If servicing a 3-cylinder powerhead, remove the bowl vent jet located next to the idle mixture screw. This jet is identical on all three carburetors. The 4-Cylinder powerheads are not equipped with this jet. 4-Remove the two Phillips head screws and captive lockwashers, and then remove the mixing chamber cover and gasket • .5-Remove the four Phillips head screws with captive lockwashers from the float bowl. Lift off the fuel bowl. Remove and discard the gasket. 6-Remove the stem gasket from the center of the fuel bowl. Support the float and at the same time push the float hinge pin free of the mounting posts. 7-Carefully lift the float with the inlet needle attached from the needle seat. Detach the inlet needle from the float. The needle seat is not removable on this carburetor. 8-Remove the main jet plug and gasket from the exterior wall of the float bowl. body because individual replacement parts are NOT available. .. NEVER use a piece of wire or any type of pointed instrum ent to clean drilled passages or calibrated holes in a carburetor, particularly those in the mixing chamber. for your engine, carburetor, and anticipated elevation of operation. 4-44 Fl£L This plug provides access for a screwdriver to be inserted into the opening and allows removal of the main jet from the side of the center turret. This design facilitates changing the size of the main jet, without removal of the carburetor from the powerhead. Main jet sizes must be changed when operating the powerhead at elevations higher than 2,500 feet above sea level. Consult the table in the Appendix for the correct main jet sizes for various elevations. GOOD WORDS Further disassembly of the carburetor is not necessary in order to clean it properly. CLEANING AND INSPECTING NEVER dip rubber parts or plastic parts in carburetor cleaner. These parts should be cleaned ONLY in solvent, and then blown dry with compressed air. Place all metal parts in a screen-type tray and dip them in carburetor cleaner until they appear completely clean, then blow them dry with compressed air. Blow out all passages in the castings with compressed air. Check all of the parts and passages to be sure they are not clo..ged or contain any deposits. NEVER use a piece of wire or any type of pointed instrument to clean drilled passages or calibrated holes in a carburetor. Move the throttle shaft back-and-forth to check for wear. If the shaft appears to be too loose, replace the complete throttle IDLE ·. MIXTURE SCREW Inspect the taper of the inlet needle and the idle mixture screw for evidence of a worn groove. Inspect the main body, air horn, and venturi cluster gasket surfaces for cracks and burrs which might cause a leak. Check the float for deterioration. If hollow floats are used check to be sure they do not contain any fluid. Check to be sure the float tab ..s in good condition. If any part of the float 1s damaged, the unit must be replaced. Check the float arm needle contacting surface and replace the float if this surface has a groove worn in it. Inspect the tapered section of the idle adjusting needles and replace any that have developed a groove. Most of the parts that should be replaced during a carburetor overhaul are included in an overhaul kit available from your local marine dealer. Check the jet sizes with a drill of the proper size. ALWAYS hold the drill in a pin vise to avoid enlarging the jet orifice. Refer to the Carburetor Jet Size/Elevation Chart in the Appendix for the proper size SERVICE CARBURETOR ''D" 4-45 FUEL *NOT ON ALL CARDS FLOAT 3-Hold the carburetor body in the inverted position --the same position it has been in since the start of the assembling procedures --with the float resting on the inlet needle. Measure the distance between the float bowl gasket surface and a point on the float directly opposite the hinge. Notice the surface of the float curves downward. Therefore, the measurement point is the lowest on the horizontal surface. The distance should be 7/16" (llmm). 4-If the distance is not as specified, then remove the float hinge pin to free the float. The float height adjustment may be made by bending the tab on which the inlet needle hangs. Repeat Step 2 and 3 until the Exploded drawing of Carburetor "D", with major parts identified. ASSEMBLING CARBURETOR ''D" 1-Hook the inlet needle spring over the float tab and lower the needle into its seat with the float hinge between the mounting posts. 2-Slide the float hinge pin through the posts to secure the float. Center the pin between the posts. Place the stem gasket over the center turret. 4-46 Fl£L specified distance between the float bowl gasket surface and the lowest edge of the float is obtained • .5-Install the main jet into the center turret of the fuel bowl. Tighten the jet securely. Install the gasket and main jet plug in the exterior wall of the float bowl and tighten the plug securely. 6-With the carburetor still inverted, position a new gasket onto the body. Place the fuel bowl in position and secure it in place with the four Phillips head screws and captive lockwashers. 7-Position a new gasket over the mixing chamber. Install the cover and secure it in place with the attaching hardware. 8-Thread the idle mixture screw into the carburetor until the screw is LIGHTLY seated. From this lightly seated position, back the screw out approximately 1-1/4 turns as a preliminary adjustment at this time. CRITICAL WORDS The idle mixture screw on the two lower carburetors on a 4-cylinder powerhead are non-adjustable. The idle mixture screw is preset at the factory and then covered with a colored sealant. This is the manufacturer's method of communicating with everyone, NOT to disturb the adjustment. If servicing a 3-cylinder powerhead, install and tighten the bowl vent jet. SCREW & INSTALLATION 9-Position NEW gaskets in place on the intake manifold. Install each carburetor LOCKWASHER (2 PLCS) SERVICE FLEL PUMP 4-47 onto the manifold in the same position from which it was removed. Each carburetor should have been identified as instructed during the removal procedures. Secure the carburetors in place with the retaining nuts. Tighten the nuts alternately and evenly to a torque value of 100 in lb (11.3 Nm). 10-Connect all of the fuel lines to the carburetors and tighten the clamps securely. Connect the fuel line from the fuel tank. Activate the fuel line squeeze bulb several times and check the carburetors and fuel lines for leaks. Connect the throttle linkage to and between the carburetors. Connect the battery leads to the battery. OPERATING ADJUSTMENTS FIRST, THESE WORDS Before fine carburetor adjustments can be properly made, the following conditions must exist: a. The correct engine-propeller combination must be used. b. The power unit must be in forward gear. c. The lower unit must be in the water. d. The engine must be warmed to normal operating temperature. e. The proper size fuel jet must be used for the elevation of operation. Main fuel jet size recommendations are intended as a guide only. If in doubt, try a size larger or smaller. Refer to the Carburetor Jet Size/ Elevation Chart in the Appendix. Spark advance change is NOT recommended for changes in elevation. In order to obtain proper engine rpm at higher elevation, a lower pitch propeller is suggested. High-Speed Adjustment The main fuel jet (high-speed) is changeable but not adjustable. Refer to the Carburetor Jet Size/Elevation Chart in the Appendix. Synchronizing To synchronize the fuel and ignition systems, including the idle mixture adjustment, see Chapter 6. Consult the Table of Contents for the powerhead being serviced. 4-11 FUEL PUMP THEORY OF OPERATION The next few paragraphs briefly describe operation of the fuel pump used on the outboard units covered in this manual. This description is followed by detailed procedures for testing the pressure, testing the volume, removing, and installing the fuel pump. The fuel pump used is a diaphragm displacement type. The pump is attached to the cylinder bypass. Therefore, it is operated by crankcase impulses. A hand-operated squeeze bulb is installed in the fuel line to fill the fuel pump and carburetor with fuel before the engine starts. After engine start, the pump is able to supply an adequate supply of fuel to the carburetor to 4-48 Fl£L into the crankcase bypass. The suction and FUEL OUltET HOSE compression created, as the piston travels up and down in the cylinder, causes the diaphragm to flex. As the piston moves upward, the diaphragm will flex inward displacing volume on its opposite side to create suction. This suction will draw liquid fuel in through the J-FUEL INLET LINETO CARBURETOR FUEL CONTAINER inlet disc valve. When the piston moves downward, compression is created in the crankcase. This compression causes the diaphragm to flex in the opposite direction. This action causes the discharge valve disc to lift off its seat. Fuel is then forced through the discharge valve into the carburetor. The pump has the capacity to lift fuel two feet and deliver approximately five gallons per hour at 4 psi pressure. Problems with the fuel pump are limited to possible leaks in the flexible neoprene suction lines; a punctured diaphragm; air leaks between sections of the pump assembly, or possibly from the disc valves not seating properly. The pump is activated by one cylinder. If this cylinder indicates a wet fouled condi- Test setup to check fuel pump pressure. meet engine demands under all speeds and conditions. The pump consists of a diaphragm, two similar spring loaded disc valves, one for inlet (suction) and the other for outlet (discharge), and a small opening leading directly DIAPHRAGM a SEAT INLET FUEL LINE FROM TANK DISCHARGE DIAPHRAGM a SEAT INLET FUEL LINE FROM TANK DISCHARGE Drawing similar to the one to the left, with the Simplified drawing of the fuel pump with the power head piston on the upward stroke. Notice the position powerhead piston on the downward stroke. Notice the of the diaphragm; the inlet disc is open; and the position of the diaphragm; inlet disc is closed; and the discharge disc is closed. The springs to preload the discharge disc is open. Again, the springs to preload discs are not shown for clarity. the discs are not shown for clarity. SERVICE Fl£L PUMP 4-49 BODY & STEM ASSEMBLY CHECK VALVE ASSEMBLY FUEL TANK ENGINE CON· END NECTOR END TO Ill= IL.L CARBURETOR BOW L L PRIMER BULB CIRCL E CLAMP Major parts of a typical fuel line squeeze bulb, used to prime the system and deliver fuel to the carburetor until the engine is operating and the pump/s can deliver fuel on their own. tion, as evidenced by a wet fouled spark plug, be sure to check the fuel pump diaphragm for possible puncture or leakage. PUMP PRESSURE CHECK First, these words: Lack of an adequate fuel supply will cause the engine to run lean, lose rpm, or cause piston scoring. If an integral fuel pump carburetor is installed, the fuel pressure cannot be checked. With a multiple carburetor installation, fuel pressure at the top carburetor should be checked whenever insufficient fuel is suspected. Fuel pressure should be checked if a fuel tank, other than the one supplied by the outboard unit's manufacturer, is being used. When the tank is checked, be sure the fuel cap has an adequate air vent. Verify that the fuel line from the tank is of sufficient size to accommodate the engine demands. An adequate size line would be one meas- Lack of adequate fuel, possibly a defective fuel pump, caused the bum condition damage to this piston. uring from 5/16" to 3/8" (7.94 to 9.52mm) ID (inside diameter). Check the fuel filter on the end of the pickup in the fuel tank, to be sure it is not too small and that it is not clogged. Check the fuel pickup tube. The Fuel pump assemblies removed from the powerhead. Notice how the fuel lines are still connected to the pumps. Further disassembling may be performed on the Major parts of a typical early model fuel pump. work bench. 4-50 Fl£L CHECK VALVE Major parts required to properly rebuild a fuel pump and return it to satisfactory service. tube must be large enough to accommodate the fuel demands of the engine under all conditions. Be sure to check the filter at the carburetor. Sufficient quantities of fuel cannot pass through into the carburetor to meet engine demands if this screen becomes clogged. To test: Install the fuel pressure gauge in the fuel line between the fuel pump and the carburetor. If multiple carburetors are installed, connect the gauge in the line to the top carburetor. Operate the engine at Typical fuel pump with the check valves removed. Notice how the valves face in opposite directions. full throttle and check the pressure reading. The gauge should indicate at least 2 psi. REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLING EARLY TYPE FUEL PUMP PRIOR TO ABOUT 1989 Turn the fuel shut-off valve to the OFF position or disconnect the fuel line either at the fuel tank or at the engine. TAKE CARE: In most cases the bolts attaching the pump to the engine also secure the pump together. Therefore, hold the pump together with one hand and remove the attaching bolts with the other. Remove the pump and lay it on a suitable work surface. Now CAREFULLY separate the parts and keep them in ORDER as an assist in assembling. As you remove the check valves TAKE TIME to OBSERVE and REMEMBER how each valve faces, because it MUST be installed in exactly the same manner, or the pump will not function. REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLING SQUARE TYPE FUEL PUMP SINCE ABOUT 1989 Turn the fuel shut-off valve to the OFF position. Cut away the sta-straps from the three hoses at the fuel pump. Disconnect the top and bottom fuel lines. Use a golf tee or a stubby pencil to plug the end of each disconnected hose to prevent the loss of fuel. Disconnect the pulse hose from the front surface of the pump. Observe the four bolts. Notice two of the bolts have slotted heads and two are just plain. The two bolts with slotted heads secure the pump to the block. The other two bolts will hold the pump components together while the pump If the diaphragm in the fuel pump should rupture, an excessive amount of fuel would enter the cylinder and foul the spark plug, as shown. SERVICE FUEL PUMP 4-51 GASKET IDI APHRAGM CHECK VALVE Exploded drawing of the fuel pump installed on most powerheads --1989 and on --major parts are identified. FLEL is being removed. Therefore, remove the two slotted bolts and lift the pump clear of the block. Remove and discard the mounting gasket. Lay the pump on a suitable work surface and remove the two remaining bolts. Now CAREFULLY separate the parts and keep them in ORDER as an assist in assembling. Do not remove the check valves unless they are defective. Once removed the valves cannot be used again. If the check valves are to be replaced, TAKE TIME to OBSERVE and REMEMBER how each valve faces, because it MUST be installed in exactly the same manner, or the pump will not function. To remove a check valve, grasp the retainer with a pair of needlenose pliers and pull the valve from the valve seat. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Wash all parts thoroughly in solvent, and then blow them dry with compressed air. USE CARE when using compressed air on the check valves. DO NOT hold the nozzle too close because the check valve can be damaged from an excessive blast of air. Inspect each part for wear and damage. Verify that the valve seats provide a flat contact area for the valve disc. Tighten all elbows and check valve connections firmly as they are replaced. Test each check valve by blowing through it with your mouth. In one direction the valve should allow air to pass through. In the other direction, air should not pass through. Check the diaphragm for pin holes by holding it up to the light. If pin holes are detected or if the diaphragm is not pliable, it MUST be replaced. A fuel pump that is an integral part of the carburetor is covered in this Chapter, Section 4-8, Integral Fuel Pump Carburetor. ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLATION EARLY TYPE FUEL PUMP PRIOR TO ABOUT 19&9 Proper operation of the fuel pump is essential for maximum performance of the powerhead. Therefore, always use NEW gaskets. NEVER use any type of sealer on fuel pump gaskets. Place NEW check valve gaskets in position in their seats. Insert ..he check valve discs in their seats. The inlet check valve RETAI NER RUBBER RETAI NER DISC FINGERS BREAK OFF RETA INER TOP PUSH TOP TtROUGH HOLE Line drawing to illustrate the installation of new check valves into a late model square fuel pump. seat is identified by the protruding tip in the casting. The flat side of the check valve seats over this tip. The outlet check valve is set in opposite, with the flat end up. In this position the tension is against the valves. Install the retainer on the check valves in the housing and secure it in place with the two retaining screws. Place a NEW gasket on the pump body, then the neoprene diaphragm, and finally another NEW gasket. Mate the fuel pump cover to the body and hold it all together. CAREFULLY place the fuel pump on the engine base. Install the retaining screws through the pump and into the engine block. Tighten the screws alternately to a torque value of 85in lb (lONm). Connect the fuel lines or turn the fuel valve to the ON position. ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLATION SQUARE TYPE FUEL PUMP SINCE ABOUT 19&9 The fuel pump rebuild kit will contain new gaskets, diaphragms, and check valve components. Each check valve consists of a large rubber disc, a sm aller plastic disc and a valve retainer. Insert the fingers of the retainer into the smaller plastic disc and then the larger rubber disc. Install the two discs and Insert the fingers of the retainer into the smaller plastic disc and then the larger rubber disc. Install the two discs and retainer onto the fuel pump body. Push in the retainer until the collar and both discs are tightly pressed against the pump body. Bend the end of the retainer from side to side until it breaks away from the collar. Install the broken off end through the hole in the collar and through the discs. Use a hammer and tap the retainer end down into place. As this piece is forced down, it will spread the fingers of the retainer and secure the check valve within the pump body. Place the larger of the two caps and boost springs into place on the back side of the pump body. All the layered components of the fuel pump have notches which MUST be aligned during assembling. Place a NEW diaphragm on the pump body over the large booster spring and cap, followed by a new gasket and the rear cover. Make sure all the notches align. Position a new diaphragm and gasket over the front of the pump body. Install the smaller booster spring and cap into the front cover. Mate the fuel pump front cover to the body and hold it all together. Secure the pump components together with the two plain head bolts installed in the top right and bottom left bolt holes. Place the fuel pump on the powerhead base using a new mounting gasket. Install the two retaining screws with slotted heads through the pump and into the engine block. Tighten the screws alternately to a torque value of 50-60 in lb (5.5-6.8Nm). Connect the fuel lines or turn the fuel valve to the ON position. The vent screw on top of the fuel tank MUST be opened to allow air to enter the tank and thus prevent a vacuum condition and lack of fuel flow in the system. Failure to open this vent screw has resulted in many frustrated moments for a countless number of boaters. OIL INJECTION 4-53 4-12 on.. INJECTION Oil injection systems replace the age old method of manually mixing oil with the fuel for lubrication of internal moving parts in the powerhead. Since outboard units have grown in num ber of cylinders with accompanying increas es in horsepower, and because the size of the fuel tanks also grew to handle the increased demand of these larger power heads, the requirement for a more sophisti cated method of mixing oil with the fuel for internal lubrication became a primary de sign objective. Almost all outboard manufacturers have now developed their own method to provide adequate oil delivery to the cylinders under all demands of the powerhead. Each system has its own trade name. "Auto Blend" Mercury engineers designed and develop ed their oil injection system to "blend" the correct amount of oil with the fuel prior to delivery to the carburetors. Therefore, the trade name used is "Auto Blend", because the blending is accomplished automatically for all powerhead demands and conditions. Fuel from the tank moves to the "Auto Blend" unit where it mixes with the oil and is then pumped to the powerhead. Advanced Oil Injection Since 1984 a new oil injection system has been installed on some 3-and 4-cylinder powerheads. The oil pump and an oil reservoir are mounted on the powerhead. The pump is driven by a worm gear directly off the crankshaft. Oil is pumped just a short distance to an oil/fuel mixing chamber and then routed to the carburetors. System Description "Auto Blend" was the first oil injection system installed on the outboard units covered in this manual. Originally it was used on only the larger horsepower outboards. Over the years, the system has been upgraded including the addition of an electronic control module, movement of the warning horn, and other improvements. "Auto Blend" is not considered an optional accessory by the manufacturer and is not recommended to be installed on units not equipped with the system from the factory. The system consists of an oil reservoir (tank), oil screen, diaphragm vacuum-operated fuel "pump", low oil warning horn, fuel filter, and the necessary fittings and hoses for efficient operation. The reservoir and associated parts are supported in a bracket mounted on a bulkhead or the boat transom. The unit is secured in the bracket with a nylon strap and Velcro fastener. This arrangement provides ·quick and easy removal from the boat for refilling, testing, or for security reasons. Oil Reservoir (Tank} The tank is constructed of slightly transparent material and the quantity of oil can be determined by a quick glance at the tank. The tank has sight level lines in half quart (0.47L) increments. ONLY 2-cycle outboard oil with a BIA rating of TC-W should be used. Since 1987, an external sight gauge has been incorporated into the cowling. The oil level may now be checked without removing the cowling. The Auto Blend unit ready to be secured in the bracket for service. Usually, short pieces of clear plastic support tubing (not shown), are placed over the end of the fuel lines to prevent kinking at the fittings. A screen installed in the tank filters the oil mixing with the fuel. Normally, this screen does not require service. Fuel ''Pump" A positive displacement diaphragm vacuum- operated fuel "pump" is mounted on the front of the oil tank. (In the strict sense of the word, it is not a pump because it is dependent on operation from another source.) The "pump" mixes oil with the fuel and is operated under vacuum supplied by the fuel pump mounted on the powerhead. The "pump" is provided with a drain plug. Low Oil Warning Horn A warning horn will sound to indicate one of two conditions: a-The level of oil in the tank is dangerously low. b-The oil screen in the tank has become clogged. The horn circuit is connected to a 12volt battery through leads and a harness plug. The RED lead is connected to the positive terminal of the battery. This lead has a 0.5 amp fuse installed as protection against damage to more expensive parts in the circuit. The black lead is connected to the negative battery terminal. The harness plug should NOT be connected until the tank is filled with oil to prevent the horn from automatically sounding. Fuel Lines A 5/16" (7.87mm) I.D. hose is used to connect the fuel tank to the oil injection unit and also from the unit to the powerhead. The hose between the oil injection tank and the powerhead pump should never exceed 5 feet (1.50 meters). Clear plastic support tubing (not shown in the accompanying illustration) is usually used over the fuel lines and secured with standard hose clamps. These support tubes will prevent kinking at the fittings and subsequent restriction of fuel flow through the fuel lines. The inlet fitting of the oil tank also serves as a fuel filter. With this arrangement, the fuel must pass through the filter before mixing with the oil in the tank. The filter is transparent, therefore, sediment can quickly be identified when it is present. The filter can be easily removed, cleaned, and installed, without any special tools. A primer bulb must be installed between the oil injection unit and the fuel pump on the powerhead. NEVER connect the primer bulb between the fuel tank and the oil tank. This error could cause serious damage to the oil injection unit by providing excessive pressure. OPERATION While the powerhead is operating, the oil injection unit provides a variable fuel/oil mixture to the fuel pump in a ratio of 50:1 at full throttle. This is standard mixture for normal operation. During the break-in period for a new or overhauled powerhead, oil should be added to the fuel tank in a ratio of 50:1. This ratio of oil in the fuel tank, added with the ratio of 50:1 from the oil injection unit will provide a mixture of 25:1 to the powerhead. This ratio is recommended by the manufacturer during the break-in period. During normal operation, the level of oil in the tank will drop at a steady rate. The unit must be positioned where the helmsperson may occasionally notice the decreasing amount in the tank. The decreasing oil level indicates the system is functioning properly and is supplying the correct proportions of fuel and oil to the powerhead. FUEL FILTER LOW OIL WARNING HORN Fwtetional diagram depicting complete hookup of the Auto Blend oil injection system. OIL INJECTION 4-55 TROUBLESHOOTING Lack of Fuel If the powerhead fails to operate properly and troubleshooting indicates a lack of fuel to the fuel pump, the problem may be blockage of fuel in the fuel lines, in the fuel passageway, in the oil injection unit, or a clogged fuel filter. First, check the fuel lines to be sure they are free of stress, kinks, and nothing is laying on them, i.e.: tackle box, bait tank, etc. Next, check the filter at the oil injection unit. Because the filter is transparent, any foreign material may be quickly discovered. The filter may be removed, cleaned, and installed quickly, without the use of any special tools. Finally, the fuel passageway in the "Auto Blend" unit may need to be back-flushed. This is accomplished by simply kinking the line and at the same time slowly squeezing the primer bulb, as shown in the accompanying illustration. The primer bulb should only be squeezed a few times to prevent building up excessive pressure in the unit. Warning Hom Sounds If the horn should sound during operation of the outboard unit, shut down the unit immediately and make a couple of quick checks. First, check the oil level in the tank and replenish as required. Next, check the oil screen in the tank. If it is clogged with sediment, remove the filter, clean it, and install it back in the tank. The outlet line and fitting may be back-flushed by kinking the hose and using the squeeze bulb, as explained in the text. 3 TEMPERATURESWITCH OUTBOARD HARNESS CONNECTOR *43 6 2 18REMOTE CONTROL HARNESSCONNECTOR 4-56 Fl£L Obtain and set an ohmmeter to the RX 1000 scale. Insert one meter lead into the two prong connector leading from the warning horn. Make contact with the other meter lead to a sui table ground on the powerhead. The meter should register continuity. If continuity is not indicated, the horn is defective and must be replaced. If continuity is indicated, check the battery connections and then the charge condition of the battery. If the problem still persists, inspect the internal oil filter and finally replace the Blend MODULE REMOTE CONTROL harness identification tests outlined in the text. 1 CONNECTOR CONNECTOR Auto warning horn. for resistance Models W /Electronic Module If the warning horn does not sound a self test "beep" when the ignition switch is ro tated to the "ON" position, proceed lows: Identify the Purple lead between the as fol main outboard harness connector and the three prong connector to the electronic module. Disconnect this lead at the quick disconnect fitting. Obtain and set a voltmeter to the 12V DC scale. With the ignition switch in the "ON" position, make contact with the Black meter lead to the ..1 THREE PIN CONNECTOR If the warning horn sounds when it should, but is intermittent, or weak, the indication is an excessive resistance or a loose connection in the circuit. Warning Horn Fails To Sound (When it should -low or no oil) Models W /0 Electronic Module If the warning horn does not sound when the "Auto Blend" unit is inverted: First, check the 0.5 amp fuse in the in-line holder of the positive lead to the battery. Then, disconnect the two prong plug between the battery and the warning horn on the unit. Obtain and set a voltmeter to the 12V DC scale. Insert the two meter leads into the battery end of the disconnected plug. The meter should register at least 9V. If less than 9V is registered, the fault lies in the battery harness, the connector plug or the battery terminals. Correct or repair as necessary. If the meter registers at least 9V, check for loose or dirty connections at the warning horn and repeat the test once more using two jumper leads in place of the battery harness. The electronic module and harnesses for the later version of Auto Blend. negative battery terminal and the Red me 2 ter lead to the female part of the Purple lead connection. If the meter fails to register at least 9V, the electronic module is not receiving battery voltage and therefore cannot signal the warning horn to sound. The problem lies elsewhere, probably in the battery connections. Perform corrections as required. If the meter registers at least 9V, but still the warning horn does not sound a self test "beep", turn the ignition switch off. Connect a jumper cable between the Black and Tan or Tan/Blue leads at the female end of the three prong connector. This action bypasses the electronic module. If the horn now emits a "beep", the electric module is defective and must be replaced. If the horn still fails to sound, obtain and set an ohmmeter to the RXlOOO scale. Check for electrical continuity between the Tan or Tan/Blue lead at the female end of the three prong connector and the Tan or Tan/Blue lead from the temperature switch at the terminal block on the powerhead. If continuity is not indicated, check for an open in the circuit or loose, dirty or corroded connections, terminals, or connector pins along the length of the Tan or Tan/Blue lead. If continuity is indicated, but still the horn fails to sound a self test ''beep", then the fault lies in the ground connection. A Black lead is used to ground the terminal block to the powerhead. This Black lead extends between the grounding screw on the powerhead and the three prong connector. Somewhere along the length of this Black lead there is an open in the circuit or a loose, dirty or corroded connection, terminal, or connector pin. Warning Hom Sounds Continuously Powerhead Is Cold Or Not Operating Models W /Electronic Module With the ignition key in the "0N° position, disconnect the three prong connector. If the horn is silent, the electonic module is defective and must be replaced. If the horn continues sounding, disconnect all three Tan or Tan/Blue leads at the terminal block on the powerhead. If the horn continues to sound, the problem is not in the oil injection system but elsewhere, possibly in the remote control box. OIL INJECTION 4-57 The horn should now be silent. Connect the Tan or Tan/Blue leads one by one to determine which lead was grounded and ac tivated the horn. Trace and replace the defective lead. If the defective lead is the one to the temperature switch, the switch and lead are replaced as a unit. Warning Hom Sounds Continuously During Powerhead Operation Oil Level Is Satisfactory Models W /Electronic Module GOOD WORDS Perform this test with the powerheadNOT operating, even though the symptoms appear when the powerhead is operating. Rotate the ignition key to the "ON" position. Disconnect the two prong connector at the "Auto Blend" unit. If the warning horn continues to sound, the electronic module is defective and MUST be replaced. If the horn is now silent, the fault lies in the internal oil filter. Replace the filter. The fuel filter is transparent allowing visual inspection for foreign material. The filter may be removed and installed without the use of special tools. STORAGE "AUTO BLEND" SYSTEM Proper storage procedures are CRITICAL to ensure efficient operation when the unit is again placed in service. First, disconnect the battery leads from the battery. Next, disconnect and plug the fuel lines at the fuel tank and powerhead. Now, drain all fuel from the unit. Remove the front cover of the unit by simultaneously pushing in on the cutaway tabs located on both sides of the cover, and at the same time pulling the cover away from the unit. Remove the drain plug and allow at least 5-minutes for all fuel to drain from the pump. Install the drain plug and tighten it securely. CRITICAL WORDS All fuel MUST be drained from the oil injection fuel "pump". The percentage of alcohol in modern fuels seems to increase each year. This alcohol in the fuel is a definite enemy of the diaphragm in the "pump". Therefore, if any fuel is left in the "pump" during storage the diaphragm will most likely be damaged. Install the front cover by aligning the cover openings on both sides of the unit, and then pushing in on the cover until it snaps into place. Oil may remain in the oil injection tank during storage without any harmful effects. PREPARATION FOR USE "AUTO BLEND" SYSTEM First, remove the front cover of the unit by simultaneously pushing in on the cutaway tabs located on both sides of the cover, and at the same time pulling the cover away from the unit. Check to be sure the fuel drain plug is tight. Replace the front cover by aligning the cover openings on both sides of the unit, and then pushing in on the cover until it snaps into place. Next, fill the oil tank with 2-cycle outboard oil with a BIA rating of TC-W. Tighten the fill cap securely. Remove any plugs in the fuel lines, and then connect the hoses to the fuel tank and the power head. Remember, the squeeze bulb MUST be in the hose between the oil injection unit and the fuel pump on the power head. Connect the low oil warning wire harness to the battery. Connect the RED lead to the positive battery terminal and the BLACK lead to the negative battery terminal. Check to be sure the low oil warning system is functioning correctly. First, veri- All fuel MUST be drained prior to placing the unit in Line drawing to clearly identify major parts of an storage, to prevent damage to the "pump" diaphragm. Auto Blend unit. OIL INJECTION 4-59 fy the tank is full of oil, and then the fill cap is tightened securely. Now, turn the oil injection unit upside down. This position will allow the float to activate the horn. If the horn sounds, immediately turn the unit rightside up and position it in the mounting bracket. Secure it in place with the strap and Velcro material. If the horn does not sound, check the 0.5 amp fuse in the fuse holder of the positive battery lead. Check both the battery con nections and the charge condition of the battery. GOOD WORDS The manufacturer recommends the fuel filter be replaced at the start of each season or at least once a year. The manufacturer also recommends oil be added to the fuel tank at the ratio of 50:1 for the first 6-gallons of fuel used after the unit is brought out of storage. The oil in the fuel tank plus the 50:1 oil mixture in the oil injection unit will deliver a mixture of 25:1 to the powerhead. This ratio will ENSURE adequate lubrication of moving parts which have been drained of oil during the storage period. ADVANCED OIL INJECTION DESCRIPTION Since introduction of the "Auto Blend" oil injection system covered in the previous section, engineers have strived to improve delivery of an oil/fuel mixture to the cylinders. The result of these efforts was introduction of a new system, we have labeled "Advanced Oil Injection". As explained in the following paragraphs, an oil tank was mounted on the powerhead, and the oil pump was moved from the boat to the powerhead. Components The system consists of an oil tank, an oil injection pump, two sensors, a warning module, a warning horn, and the necessary electrical and hose connections for the system to operate properly. 3-cylinder models are also equipped with a warning horn test button. 4-cylinder models have no such feature, but are equipped with a warning module mounted on the starboard side of the power head. Oil Tank The oil tank is attached to the powerhead under the cowling and has a capacity of 3 quarts (2.8L) on 50hp and 60hp models (since 1991), or 1 Gal. (3.78L) on 70hp, 75hp, 80hp, and 90hp models, or 1.4 Gals. (5.3L) on 100hp and 110hp models. Low Oil Sensor The low oil sensor is installed in the top of the oil tank. This sensor operates on a magnetic float principle. As the oil level drops to the dangerous level, below 1 qt. (0.95L), a circuit is closed and the warning horn will sound. Oil is gravity fed to the oil pump mounted beneath the tank on the powerhead. Powerhead Temperature Sensor A powerhead temperature sensor is mounted on the only removable part of the cylinder head -the cover. The sensor is located at the hottest portion of a combustion chamber, next to a spark plug. A Black lead connects the sensor to a terminal block on the powerhead. If an overhead condition is detected by the sensor, a signal is sent to the warning horn to alert the operator of a possible problem with the system. OIL LEVEL INDICATOR Since 1987, most power heads are equipped with a single large oil tank mounted on the powerhead •. The _ tank is provided with an oil level indicator which ts visible through a window in the cowling. 4-60 Fl£L Warning Module 50hp and 60hp 3-Cyl. Models (1991 and on) and 4-Cylinder Modt-Js Only The warning module is connected electrically to the low oil sensor in the oil tank, and to the powerhead temperature sensor in the powerhead; to the switch in the remote control box; and to a 12-volt supply. The module responds to signals from both sensors and completes the circuit to the warning horn. By having the module connected to the ignition switch, each time the switch is turned on and before the powerhead starts, the warning horn will sound because the motion sensor sends a signal to the module indicating the pump is not operating. The horn sounding also assures the boat operator the system is functioning properly. Oil Pump The oil pump is mounted on the powerhead and is driven by a gear and shaft arrangement off the crankshaft. Therefore, as soon as the crankshaft begins to rotate, even during the cranking process, the pump also rotates and begins to deliver oil to the fuel/ oil mixer. The pump will meter oil for a mixture with the fuel of approxim ately 50:1 at wide open throttle and increases the ratio to 100:1 at idle speed. OPERATION ADVANCED OIL INJECTION On models without a warning module, when the key switch on the remote control box is turned to the ON position, AND the test button on top of the oil tank is depressed, the warning horn will sound intermittently, indicating the warning horn circuit is functioning. On models with a warning module, when the key switch on the remote control box is turned to the ON position, the warning horn will sound intermittently, indicating the warning horn circuit is functioning. The oil is gravity fed downward from the powerhead mounted oil tank to the oil injection pump. Because the oil injection pump is mechanically operated through a gear and shaft from the crankshaft, as soon as the crankshaft begins to rotate, even during cranking, the pump begins to rotate also. The injection pump will meter oil at an oil/fuel ratio of approximately 100:1 at idle speed and at 50:1 ratio at WOT. This metering is controlled through direct linkage to the carburetor linkage. From the oil injection pump, the oil is mixed with fuel from the fuel pump and transferred to the top carburetor. FILLING OIL INJECTION SYSTEM There is nothing mysterious or difficult about working with the oil injection system. A few points need to be mentioned to ensure proper performance of the system. The manufacturer recommends Quicksilver Formula 2-cycle Outboard Motor Oil. If this oil is not available in your area, a high quality 2-cycle outboard oil with a BIA rating of TCW may be substituted. The oil injection pimp is driven off the crankshaft and supplies oil to the fuel pump. The oil pump is The oil warning module is clearly marked and is gravity fed from the oil tank mounted high on the installed on the port side of the powerhead. power head. OIL INJECTION 4-6 1 The oil pump bleed screw is located on the port side and is easily accessible. Remove the fill cap and add oil as required. Be sure to install the gasket and tighten the cap securely. PURGING AIR (BLEEDING) ADVANCED OIL INJECTION SYSTEM Air must be purged ("bled") from the system to ensure the proper amount of oil being delivered to the cylinders through the carburetors. With the powerhead not operating, hold an absorbent cloth below the oil injection pump and be prepared to catch oil as it oozes from the bleed screw. Loosen the bleed screw three, maybe four full turns, and allow oil and any air to escape from the screw. When a steady stream of oil is observed with no sign of air, tighten the screw securely. OIL PUMP ADJUSTMENT Because the oil injection pump meters oil to mix with fuel for delivery to the carburetors, the pump is physically connected through linkage to the throttle shaft linkage. This arrangement ensures a change in oil metering as the throttle is opened and closed. To adjust the oil injection pump, begin with the throttle linkage in the idle position and the power head NOT operating. Observe the mark on the oil injection arm and the mark on the pump casting. The two marks should be aligned. If the marks are not aligned, adjust the oil injection link rod as shown in the accompanying illustration. TROUBLESHOOTING OIL ADVANCED INJECTION SYSTEM The first indication of a problem in the oil injection system will be indicated by the warning horn sounding intermittently. If the horn sounds while the powerhead is operat ing, shut the unit down IMMEDIATELY. Open the cowling and make a visual inspection of the oil injection components. If the oil level in the tank is low, the horn was correct in sounding. Filling the tank with oil will NOT correct the problem. A determination must be made as to why the oil level is low. WARNING NEVER OPERATE THE POWERHEAD ON FUEL ONLY. IN AN EMERGENCY, ADD OIL FROM THE REMOTE TANK TO THE FUEL TANK. SERVICE THE OIL SYSTEM AT THE FIRST OPPORTUNITY. Consult the TROUBLESHOOTING chart in this section for possible causes and corrective action to be taken to return the oil injection system to satisfactory operation. At the first sign of trouble --the oil warning horn SOWlding intermittently -shut down the powerhead AT ONCE and check the supply of oil in the oil tank. 4-62 FLEL TROUBLE SHOOTING Warning Horn Fails To Sound When Ignition Key Is Turned To ON Possible Cause Faulty horn or open tan wire between horn and powerhead. Warning module. Horn Sounds Continuously When Ignition Key Is Turned To ON Possible Cause Faulty powerhead overheat sensor. Warning module. Warning Horn Sounds When Powerhead Is Operating Oil Level In Tank Adequate Possible Cause Faulty powerhead ignition system. Defective low oil sensor in tank. Defective oil pump drive system. Warning module. Corrective Action Disconnect tan lead from powerhead wmng harness at terminal block on powerhead. Ground tan lead to powerhead ground. Warning horn should sound. If not, check tan wire between horn and powerhead for open circuit. Check horn. Ensure all warning module leads are connected to harness leads. If so, warning module is defective. Corrective Action Disconnect overheat sensor and turn ignition key to ON position. If horn still sounds continuously, warning module is at fault. Replace module and retest. If horn does not sound, overheat sensor is faulty. Replace. If horn sounds intermittently, with an adequate oil supply in the tank, warning module is faulty. Replace. Corrective Action Check ignition coil lead connections on ignition switch box. Determine the coil lead having the green wire from the warning module connected to it. Check the coil for correct voltage. If voltage to coil is correct, voltage to warning module is correct. Disconnect Tan and Black low oil sensor leads from terminal connectors. Do not remove cap from reservoir. Connect ohmmeter between leads. If oil level in tank is between half full and full, the meter should indicate NO continuity. If continuity is present, sensor is faulty. If the oil level in the tank falls below 1 quart (0.951), meter should indicate continuity. If the meter indicates NO continuity, sensor is faulty. ENSURE unit will have adequate cooling water. Use 50:1 fuel/oil mixture and start engine. Disconnect link rod between pump and carburetor linkage. Disconnect outlet hose of pump and observe if pump is discharging oil. If no oil, pum p drive system is at fault. If above tests check out OK, replace warning module. SERVICING ADVANCED OIL INJECTION The following procedures provide detailed illustrated steps to service components of the "Advanced Oil Injection System". Perform only the steps required to return the system to satisfactory operation. Keep the work area as clean as possible and strive to prevent contaminants from entering the system. One of the filter screens in the fuel filter has extremely small openings and can become quickly clogged with dust particles or other foreign material. GOOD WORDS The only purpose for disassembling oil injection pump is to locate a problem in oil delivery. For example, if the pump is frozen due to debris or rust, the pump can be disassembled and cleaned. The manufacturer has made no provisions for rebuilding this pump. Spare parts are NOT available. If any part is found to be defective and no longer fit for service, other than 0-rings, washers or possibly the spring, the pump must be replaced. 0-rings and washers can be matched and replaced, but the spring inside the pump is a component of the oil metering system. Therefore, the elasticity of the replacement spring must be evenly matched. Not an easy task. SAVE the 0-r ings, even if they are defective. The old ring will be essential when purchasing a new ring to ensure the proper type and size is obtained. To adjust the oil pump, align the two marks according to the procedures outlined in the te:x:t. OIL INJECTION 4-63 ·d!OIL . CONTROL ROD REMOVAL 1-Pry the oil injection link rod free of the ball joint on the injection pump lever. Take care not to alter the length of this rod. If the rod length is accidentally altered, procedures to adjust the length will be found on Page 4-59. 2-Position a suitable container as far as possible under the oil pump to receive oil drained from the tank. Snip the Sta-strap at the inlet fitting. Squeeze the oil supply line from the tank to the pump, to restrict the flow of oil while pulling it free of the fitting. Allow the contents of the tank to drain into the container. Pull the oil line free of the other oil pump fitting. Remove the two bolts securing the pump to the powerhead and lift the pump clear. 4-64 Fl.EL OIL REGULATOR 11BANJ011 BOLT DISASSEMBLING 1-Remove the two Phillips head screws with captive lockwashers, and then remove the top cover. 2-Lift out the oil regulator and spring. Remove and save the 0-ring. 3-Use a small pair of needle nose pliers and carefully pull out the metering barrel. Remove the bleed screw and gasket/washer. 4-Loosen and remove the "Banjo" bolt from the oil outlet fitting. The "Banjo" bolt is a very special bolt with a hole · SCREW & lOCKWASHER · · (2 PlCS) ·,,, =_,, OIL INJECTION 4-65 the 0-rings. ·*· through the shank. The design allows the bolt to be used to secure the fitting and at the same time permit oil to pass through. Remove the fuel fitting and the two flat washers, one on both sides of the fitting. 5-Remove the fuel inlet fitting in the same manner, as described in the previous step. 6-Remove the two Phillips head screws with captive lockwashers, and then remove the bottom cover. Save the 0-ring. 7-Note the spring tension on the lever provided by the spring, as an aid during installation. Unhook the small spring loop from the post on the pump body and pull out the oil pump lever and stepped cam shaft assembly. Save the 0-ring. 8-Pull out the worm gear shaft and bushing from the side of the pump. Take care not to loose the small disc spacer at the end of the shaft. Save the two 0-rings. 9-Push out the driven cam from the pump. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Make certain all 0-rings are removed from the body before emersing the pump in solvent as the solvent will cause the rubber to swell and ruin the sealing properties of 4-66 Fl£L TOP COVER 01L PRESSUREREGULATOR METERING BARREL DRIVEN PUMP DISC SPACER OIL INLET WORMSHAFT LEVER Exploded drawing of an oil injection pump with major parts identified. Rinse the pump body and pump covers in solvent and then blow them dry with compressed air. Check all parts and passages to be sure they are not clogged or contain any deposits. Inspect the condition of the worm shaft threads/teeth and also those on the driven cam for excessive wear or cross threading. Inspect the two coupling posts on the driven gear which engage the holes in the metering barrel. If these posts are sheared off, or the holes elongated, the amount of oil delivered to the powerhead will be greatly restricted. Such a condition will cause a serious lack of lubrication in the powerhead. Therefore, the pump MUST be replaced. The metering barrel and the driven cam ride on the stepped cam at the base of the pump. The regulator rides inside the top of the metering barrel. The top of the regulator rests against the top cover. As the stepped cam is rotated, by action of the oil pump injection lever, the metering barrel and driven cam are raised up against the spring pressure of the regulator spring. As the metering barrel rises, relative to the regulator, small oil passages are blocked off. Thus, the action of the oil injection pump lever, regulates the oil flow at the outlet fitting. At low rpm, the metering barrel and driven cam ride on the high point of the stepped cam, restricting the flow of oil. At high rpm, the metering barrel, coupled with the driven cam, ride on the low OIL INJECTION 4-67 side of the stepped cam shaft. In this position, the regulator is completely clear of the passages in the metering barrel and maximum oil flow is obtained. Any obstruction in these passages will restrict oil flow and subsequently powerhead lubrication. If the oil pump had a tendency to leak oil, a number of areas may be at fault. The first place, and most common, is the 0-ring around the worm shaft. If this 0-ring was distorted during installation, the pump would leak at this point. The second place for leakage is the top and bottom pump covers. Missing or distorted 0-rings will cause the pump to leak at the covers. The third place for leakage is the inlet and outlet fittings on the pump. These fittings MUST have a flat washer on both sides of the fitting. If either washer is missing, an oil leak could develop at this point. The fourth and last place for a leak is the gasket/washer under the bleed screw. Both of these items MUST be in place and in good condition. Inspect the holes in the two "Banjo" bolts. These special type bolts MUST be used to secure the fittings. Obviously, a regular solid type bolt will fit, but will totally shut off the flow of oil through the fitting, with DISASTEROUS results to the power head. Lightly oil all internal pump components before assembling. ASSEMBLING 1-Slide the driven cam down into the bottom of the pump body, with the gear end DRIVEN CAM The rings on this piston became stuck due to lack of adequate lubrication, incorrect timing, or overheating. 4..8 Fl£L SCREW & LOCKWASHER(2 PLCS) going in first. Line up the gear portion of the cam with the opening for the worm gear. 2-If the worm shaft was removed from the large bushing, slide the shaft back into place inside the bushing. Install the two 0rings around the bushing. Place the small disc spacer at the end of the worm shaft. Slide the assembled worm shaft into the pump with the teeth on the shaft indexing with the teeth on the driven cam. Push the 3-Install the 0-ring around the stepped cam shaft. Slide the oil pump lever and stepped cam assembly into place. Wind the spring COUNTERCLOCKWISE a couple turns, and then hook the loop around the post on the body. The spring tension will be adjusted later when the oil control link rod is installed. Push the driven cam down the oil pump bore until the cam rests against the stepped cam. 4-Install the 0-ring into the groove on shaft in until the shoulder of the bushing seats against the pump body. the base of the pump. Place the bottom cover over the 0-ring with the tang on the OIL INJECTION 4-69 FLAT .. OILREGULATOR cover facing downward. Install and tighten the two Phillips head screws with their captive lockwashers. .5-Install a flat washer, the oil inlet fitting, another flat washer, and the "Banjo" bolt into the lower opening of the pump. 6-Install the flat washer, oil outlet fitting, another flat washer, and the "Banjo" bolt into the upper opening on the pump. 7-Slide the metering barrel into the pump bore with the posts on the driven cam indexing with the holes in the barrel. Install and tighten the bleed screw and the gasket/ washer. 8-Install the 0-ring into the groove on the top of the pump. Slide the spring down over the metering barrel and insert the oil regulator into the center of the barrel. 9-Place the top cover over the pump with the dimple in the cover facing upward. Install and tighten the two Phillips head screws with captive lockwashers. Tighten the screws securely. The pump is now ready for installation to the powerhead. SCREW & LOCKWASHER (2 PLCS) For convenience, each ignition system has been identified with a code numeral from I thru V. These code numerals will be used throughout this chapter and are referenced in the Appendix. To determine the code numeral of the ignition system used on any particular powerhead, simply find the engine and appropriate model year in the Tune-up Specifications, then move across the table to the IGN TYPE column. The ignition system used on that engine will be identified. Once this numeral is determined, refer to the appropriate section in this chapter for detailed troubleshooting and service procedures. The identification code numerals are as follows: Type I Kiekhaefer --Distributor --Mag neto with points Type ll Thunderbolt --Distributor --Lightning energizer ignition --pointless Also known as Alternator Driver Ignition (AD I) Type lli Thunderbolt --Distributor --C.D. ignition --pointless Type IV Thunderbolt --Flywheel C.D. ignition --pointless Type V Thunderbolt --Flywheel C.D. ignition --pointless --coil per cylinder 5-2 SPARK PLUG EVALUATION Removal Remove the spark plug wires by pulling and twisting on only the molded cap. NEVER pull on the wire or the connection inside the cap may become separated or the boot damaged. Remove the spark plugs and keep them in order. TAKE CARE not to tilt the socket as you remove the plug or the insula tor may be cracked. This spark plug is foul from operating with an overrich air/fuel mixture, possibly caused by an improper carruretor adjustment. Examine Line the plugs in order of removal and carefully examine them to determine the firing conditions in each cylinder. If the side electrode is bent down onto the center electrode, the piston is traveling too far upward in the cylinder and striking the spark plug. Such damage indicates the piston pin or the rod bearing is worn excessively. In most cases, an engine overhaul is required to correct the condition. To verify the cause of the problem, rotate the flywheel by hand. As the piston moves to the full up position, push on the piston crown with a screwdriver inserted through the spark plug Damaged spark plugs. Notice the broken electrode on the left plug. The missing part MUsr be found and removed before returning the powerhead to service, to Example of a non-adjustable surface gap spark plug prevent serious damage to expensive internal parts. operated under favorable conditions. SPARK PLUG EVALUATION 5-3 This spark plug has been operating too-cold, because it is rated with a too-low heat range for the powerhead. hole, and at the same time rock the flywheel back-and-forth. If any play in the piston is detected, the engine must be rebuilt. Correct Color- A proper firing plug should be dry and powdery. Hard deposits inside the shell indicate too much oil is being mixed with the fuel. The most important evidence is the ---HIGH TENSION CABLE CONNECTION (SPARK PLUG WIRE) CERAMIC INSULATOR THREADED SHELL light gray to tan color of the porcelain, which is an indication this plug has been running at the correct temperature. This means the plug is one with the correct heat range and also that the air-fuel mixture is correct. Rich Mixture A black, sooty condition on both the spark plug shell and the porcelain is caused by an excessively rich air-fuel mixture, both at low and high speeds. The rich mixture lowers the combustion temperature so the spark plug does not run hot enough to burn off the deposits. Deposits formed only on the shell is an indication the low-speed air-fuel mixture is too rich. At high speeds with the correct mixture, the temperature in the combustion chamber is high enough to burn off the deposits on the insulator. Too Cool A dark insulator, with very few deposits, indicates the plug is running too cool. This condition can be caused by low compression or by using a spark plug of an incorrect heat range. If this condition shows on only one plug it is most usually caused by low compression in that cylinder. If all of the plugs have this appearance, then it is probably due to the plugs having a too-low heat range. Fouled A fouled spark plug may be caused by the wet oily deposits on the insulator shorting the high-tension current to ground inside the shell. The condition may also be caused by ignition problems which prevent a hightension pulse !rom being delivered to the spark plug. Cutaway drawing of a typical spark plug with princiThe spark plugs should be kept in order as they are removed from the powerhead to enable a proper diagno ple parts identified. sis to be made of each cylinder operating condition • A c:ack i.. the porcelain is usually caused by remov . zng qr znstalltng the plug using the wrong size wrench. ..ch damage will cause the spark to be grounded by . ]umpmg from the crack to the base of the plug. Carbon Deposits Heavy carbon-like deposits are an indication of excessive oil in the fuel. This condition may be the result of worn piston rings or excessive ring end gap. Overheating A dead white or gray insulator, which is generally blistered, is an indication of overheating and pre-ignition. The electrode gap wear rate will be more than normal and in the case of pre-ignition, will actually cause the electrodes to melt as shown in this illustration. Overheating and pre-ignition are usually caused by overadvanced timing, detonation from using too-low an octane Today, numerous type spark plugs are available for service. ALWAYS check with the Specifications or the local marine shop to be sure the manufacturer has not initiated a late-change for the model being serviced. rating fuel, an excessively lean air-fuel mixture, or problems in the cooling system. Electrode Wear Electrode wear results in a wide gap and if the electrode becomes carbonized it will form a high-resistance path for the spark to jump across. Such a condition will cause the engine to misfire during acceleration. If all of the plugs are in this condition, it can cause an increase in fuel consumption and very poor performance at high-speed operation. The solution is to replace the spark plugs with a rating in the proper heat range and gapped to specification. Red rust-colored deposits on the entire firing end of a spark plug can be caused by water in the cylinder combustion chamber. This can be the first evidence of water entering the cylinders through the exhaust manifold because of an accumulation of scale or defective exhaust shutter. This condition MUST be corrected at the first opportunity. Refer to Chapter 3, Engine Service. '-3 POLARITY CHECK Coil polarity is extremely important for proper battery ignition system operation. If a coil is connected with reverse polarity, The spark plug gap should always be checked with a wire-type feeler gauge before installing new or used plugs. SPARK SPLUG EVALUATION 5-5 the spark plugs may demand from 30 to 40 percent more voltage to fire, or on most C.D. systems, there will be NO spark. Under such demand conditions, in a very short time the coil would be unable to supply enough voltage to fire the plugs. Any one of the following three methods may be used to quickly determine coil polarity. 1-The polarity of the coil can be checked using an ordinary D.C. voltmeter set on the maximum scale. Connect the positive lead to a good ground. With the engine running, momentarily touch the negative lead to a spark plug terminal. The needle should swing upscale. If the needle swings downscale, the polarity is reversed. 2-If a voltmeter is not available, a pencil may be used in the following manner: Disconnect a spark plug wire and hold the metal connector at the end of the cable about 1/4" (6.35mm) from the spark plug terminal. Now, insert an ordinary pencil tip between the terminal and the connector. Crank the engine with the ignition switch ON. If the spark feathers on the plug side and has a slight orange tinge, the polarity is correct. If the spark feathers on the cable connector side, the polarity is reversed. DISHED-OUT AREA 3-The firing end of a used spark plug can give a clue to coil polarity. If the ground electrode is "dished", it may mean polarity is reversed. 5-4 WIRING HARNESS CRITICAL WORDS: These next two paragraphs may well be the most important words in this chapter. Probably the No. 1 cause of electrical problems with outboard power plants is misuse of the wiring harness. A wiring harness is used between the key switch and the engine. This harness seldom contains wire of sufficient size to allow connecting accessories. Therefore, anytime a new accessory is installed, NEW wiring should be used between the battery and the accessory. A separate fuse panelMUST be installed on the dash. To connect the fuse panel, use one red and one black No. 10 gauge wires from the battery. If a small amount of 12-volt current should be accidently attached to the magneto system, the coil may be damaged or DESTROYED. Such a mistake in wiring can easily happen if the source for the 12-vo1 t accessory is taken from the key switch. Therefore, again let it be said, NEVER connect accessories through the key switch. -A damaged wiring lead or harness cannot be repaired, it MUST be replaced. 5-5 TYPE I IGNITION SYSTEM KJEKHAEFER -DISTRIBUTOR MAGNETO WITH POINTS Description This magneto system is identified as Type I in the Appendix. Magnetos installed on outboard engines will usually operate over extremely long periods of time without requiring adjustment or repair. However, if ignition system problems are encountered, and the usual corrective actions such as replacement of spark plugs and breaker points does not correct the problem, the magneto output should be checked to determine if the unit is functioning properly. The Type I Kiekhaefer and FairbanksMorse magnetos are special units for use on the 4-cylinder outboard units covered in this manual. The powerheads have four cylinders in line and like most outboard motors are 2-stroke cycle units. This means they require an ignition spark every 90 degrees of crankshaft rotation. Therefore, the Type I magnetos have a 4-lobe cam to meet the demand of four sparks per revolution of the rotor. The rotor turns at the same speed as the crankshaft. To understand the basic principles of magneto operation, it would be well worth the time to spend a few minutes to read and understand the principles of magneto operation, as outlined in the following paragraphs. Belt-driven magneto distributor cleaned and serviced, ready for installation onto the powerhead. Components --Type I Ignition A battery installed to crank the engine does not mean the powerhead is equipped with a battery-type ignition system. A magneto system uses the battery only for cranking the engine. Once the engine is running, the battery has absolutely no effect on engine operation. Therefore, if the bat tery is low and fails to crank the engine properly for starting, the engine may be cranked manually, started and operated. The distributor-type magneto system is a self-contained unit. The unit does not re quire assistance from an outside source for starting or for continued operation. There fore, if the battery is dead the engine may be cranked manually and started. The distributor of a magneto ignition system is belt driven and basically consists of two permanent magnets; a set of two pole shoes; a coil; a set of primary windings; a set of secondary windings; a condenser; and a set of conventional points. The two permanent magnets are pressed onto the distributor shaft and therefore ro tate with the shaft. Their position is just below the distributor plate. The two pole shoes are built into the distributor housing. They form an almost continuous circular body. The magnets rotate inside the shoes and induce magnetism in the pole shoes. The coil contains the primary and secondary windings. A laminated core extends through the center of the coil. The coil is secured beside the distributor plate. As with most distributors, the condenser and the set of points are attached to the distributor plate in the usual manner. Operation -Type I Ignition The accompanying three-part illustration on this page will be most helpful in understanding the creation and flow of electrical current from its beginning with the magnets to final discharge at the spark plug in the cylinder. The electrical cycle for the Type I ignition system begins with the magnets rotating on the distributor shaft. Naturally, both magnets have a north and south pole and the magents are installed, one under the other ° and with their poles shifted 90 on a horizontal plane. As the magnets rotate, they induce magnetism in the pole shoes, as depicted in "A" of the accompanying illustration. The magnetic field extends from one pole shoe through the coil core to the pole shoe on the opposite side As shown, • the magnetic lines of force extend from one shoe to the other. As the magnets continue to rotate to a neutral position (where both north and south poles are at the openings of the two shoes and with the points closed) as shown in "B", the current flows in the primary circuit. The primary windings induce a magnetic field in the coil core which extends to the poles shoes. When the rotating magnets have reversed their position and induce a new magnetic field in exactly the opposite direction, "C" of the illustration, an attempt is made to re-establish lines of force in the new direction. The old field built up by the primary windings, will resist this attempt to reverse the field and as a result a tremendous stress is set up in the field. At the instant the points open, the old field will collapse the lines of force in one direction and will instantly re-establish a new field in the opposite direction. This field change is sufficient to produce a high voltage in the secondary circuit and to jump the gap at the spark plug igniting the fuel/air mixture in the cylinder. One phase of the ignition cylce is complete. Another phase has been developing with the other magnet as it rotates and the same pattern continues. As soon as the north pole magnets reach their orignial position, as shown in "A" of the illustration, another spark plug fires and a new phase begins. A cycle is considered complete once all four spark plugs have fired. A complete cycle is accomplishe-d with each rotation of the crankshaft. In the very simplest terms, two spark plugs will fire each time each magnet makes one complete revolution. Adjustments of the Type I magneto are seldom necessary. When adjustments are required, they are simple, but must be performed according to the following instructions. Other areas affecting poor engine performance should be thoroughly checked before the magneto is blamed for engine trouble. Since a brief engine inspection will often uncover the problem before the magneto is reached, maladjustment of magneto parts in good condition is thereby prevented. The magneto should only be opened after there is no question but that the spark TYPE I SYSTEM 5-7 produced is unsatisfactory for proper engine operation. The magneto condition may be determined by following the procedures outlined in the next section --Troubleshooting. SPARKPLUG ·.. 0 ® ® Functional diagram depicting operation of the Type I ignition system, as explained in detail in the text. Notice the direction of the magnetic field through the coil core as the magnets on the rotor revolve. contained unit. Therefore, if the engine has a key switch and wiring harness, remove them from the engine and then make a test for spark. If a good spark is obtained with these two items disconnected, but no spark is available at the plug when they are connected, then the trouble is in the harness or the key switch. If a test is made for spark at the plug with the harness and switch connected, check to be sure the key switch is turned to the ON position. Key switch located in the shift box. The shift box must be disassembled to service the key switch. 5-8 IGNITION The side-mounted electrical cormector is exposed and vulnerable to dampness and corrosion. Therefore, the terminals should be inspected and cleaned each season. TROUBLESHOOTING TYPE I IGNITION SYSTEM Always attempt to proceed with the troubleshooting in an orderly manner. The "shot-in-the-dark" approach will only result in wasted time, incorrect diagnosis, replacement of unneccessary parts, and frustration. Begin the ignition system troubleshooting with the spark plugs and continue through the system until the source of trouble is located. Remember, a magneto system is a self Key Switch A magneto key switch operates in REVERSE of any other type key switch. When the key is moved to the OFF position, the circuit is CLOSED between the ignition and ground. For this reason, an automotive-type switch MUST NEVER be used, because the circuit would be opened and closed in reverse, and if 12-volts should reach the coil, the coil may be DESTROYED. CRITICAL WORDS: These next two paragraphs may well be the most important words in this chapter. Probably the No. 1 cause of electrical problems with outboard power plants is misuse of the wiring harness. A wiring harness is used between the key switch and the engine. This harness seldom contains wire of sufficient size to allow connecting accessories. Therefore, anytime a new accessory is installed, NEW wiring should be used between the battery and the accessory. A separate fuse panel .MUST be installed on the dash. To connect the fuse panel, use one red and one black No. 10 gauge wires from the battery. If a small amount of 12-vol t current should be accidently attached to the magneto system, the coil may be damaged or DESTROYED. Such a mistake in wiring can easily happen if the source for the 12-volt accessory is taken from the key switch. Therefore, again let it be said, NEVER connect accessories through the key switch. Spark Plugs 1-Check the plug wires to be sure they are properly connected. Check the entire length of the wires from the plugs to the magneto in the distributor. If the wire is to be removed from the spark plug, ALWAYS use a pulling and twisting motion as a precaution against damaging the connection. 2-Attempt to remove the spark plugs by hand. This is a rough test to determine if the plug is tightened properly. You should not be able to remove the plug without using the proper socket size tool. Remove the spark plugs and keep them in order. Examine each plug and evaluate its condition as described in Section 5-2. 3-Use a spark tester and check for spark at each cylinder. If a spark tester is not available, hold the plug wire about 1/ 4" (6.35mm) from the engine. Turn the fly- TYPE I SYSTEM 5-9 wheel with a pull starter or electrical starter and check for spark. A strong spark over a wide gap must be observed when testing in this manner, because under com pression a strong spark is necessary in order to ignite the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder. This means it is possible to think you have a strong spark, when in reality the spark will be too weak when the plug is installed. If there is no spark, or if the spark is weak, the trouble is most likely in the magneto. Compression Before spending too much time and money attempting to trace a problem to the ignition system, a compression check of each cylinder should be made. If the cylinder does not have adequate compression, troubleshooting and attempted service of the ignition or fuel system will fail to give the desired results of satisfactory engine performance. Remove the spark plug wires by pulling and twisting ONLY on the molded cap. NEVER pull on the wire because the connection inside the cap may be separated or the boot may be damaged. Remove the spark plugs. Insert a compression gauge into >.I0 IGNITION the cylinder spark plug hole. Crank the engine through several revolutions and note the final compression reading. Repeat the procedure for each cylinder. A variation in reading between the cylinders is far more important than the actual individual readings. If a particular cylinder varies more than 20 psi from the others, the cylinder may be scored, the rings frozen, or the piston burned. In-line powerheads covered in this manual do not use a cylinder head. Therefore, low compression in one cylinder CANNOT be attributed to a blown head gasket. Condenser In simple terms, a condenser is composed of two sheets of tin or aluminum foil laid one on top of the other, but separated by a sheet of insulating material such as waxed paper, etc. The sheets are rolled into a cylinder to conserve space and then inserted into a metal case for protection and to permit easy assembling. The purpose of the condenser is to prevent excessive arcing across the points and to extend their useful life. When the flow of primary current is brought to a sudden stop by the opening of the points, the magnetic field in the primary windings collapses instantly, and is not allowed to "fade away", which would happen if the points were allowed to arc. When a compression check is performed, the spark plug leads MUST be grounded to the powerhead to prevent excessive strain on the coil. If the leads are not grounded, and simply left hanging, the coil will attempt to match the demand created by the spark trying to jump from the plug shell to nearest ground. ALTERNATE LAYERS OF INSULATION --WAXED PAPER ALTERNATE LAYERS OF FOIL TIM OR ALUMINUM FOIL INSULATION Rough sketch to illustrate how the waxed paper, aluminum foil, and insulation are rolled in the manufacture of a typical condenser. The condenser stores the electricity that would have arced across the points and discharges that electricity when the points close again. This discharge is in the opposite direction to the original flow, and tends to "smooth out" the current. The more quickly the primary field collapses, the higher the voltage produced in the secondary windings and delivered to the spark plugs. In this way, the condenser (in the primary circuit), affects the voltage (in the secondary circuit) at the spark plugs. Modern condensers seldom cause problems, therefore, it is not necessary to install a new one each time the points are replaced. However, if the points show evidence of arcing, the condenser may be at fault and should be replaced. A faulty condenser may not be detected without the use of special test equipment. Testing will reveal any defects in the condenser, but will NOT predict the useful life left in the unit. .... t If the point set is heavily oxidized, it should be replaced. Allowing an outboard engine to remain idle tions, see Chapter 6. MOVEABLE POINT Line drawing of a typical point set with principle parts identified. The modest cost of a new condenser justifies its ''Jrchase and installation to eliminate this item as a source of trouble. Breaker Points The breaker points in an outboard motor are an extremely important part of the ignition system. A set of points may appear to be in good condition, but they may be the source of hard starting, misfiring, or poor engine performance. The rules and knowledge gained from association with 4-cycle engines do not necessarily apply to a 2-cycle engine. The points should be replaced every 100 hours of operation or at least once a year. REMEMBER, the less an outboard engine is operated, the more care it needs. TYPE I SYSTEM 5-1 1 will do more harm than if it is used regular ly. A breaker point set consists of two points. One is attached to a stationary bracket and does not move. The other point is attached to a movable mount. A spring is used to keep the points in contact with each other, except when it is separated by the action of a cam machined onto the distributor shaft. Both points are constructed with a steel base and a tungsten cap fused to the base. To properly diagnose magneto (spark) problems, the theory of electricity flow must be understood. The flow of electricity through a wire may be compared with the flow of water through a pipe. Consider the voltage in the wire as the water pressure in the pipe and the amperes as the volume of water. Now, if the water pipe is broken, the water does not reach the end of the pipe. In a similar manner if the wire is broken the flow of electricity is broken. If the pipe springs a leak, the amount of water reaching the end of the pipe is reduced. The same holds true for the wire. If the installation is defective or the wire becomes grounded, the amount of electricity (amperes) reaching the end of the wire is reduced. Check the wiring carefully, inspect the points closely, and adjust them accurately according to the Specifications in the Appendix. For timing and synchronizing instruc A defective set of points will contribute to hard starting of any outboard unit. Such a condition will also A belt driven magneto removed from the powerhead cause misfire when the powerhead is operating at high and ready to be disassembled for cleaning and replace rpm . ment of defective parts. 5-12 IGNITION SAFETY CUT-OFF SWITCH .. SWITCH GROUND LEAD CD SERVICING TYPE I IGNITION SYSTEM General Information Overhaul procedures may differ slightly on various outboard models, but the following general basic instructions will apply to all 4-cylinder Kiekhaefer magnetos. REMOVAL 1-Disconnect the battery leads from the battery terminals. Remove the spark plug wires. Use a pulling and twisting motion as a precaution against damaging the connections. Release the high-tension leads by removing the screws from the two holddown clips on the exhaust side of the engine. Disconnect the braided ground strap from the crankcase, but leave it attached to the CONTACT @ AREA CENTERED ..·-·· ....·-·· AREA NOT CONTACT @CENTERED CENTERS AREA NOT CONTACT @ CENTERED OF POINT FACU Before setting the breaker point gap, the points must be properly aligned (top). ALWAYS bend the stationary point, NEVER the breaker lever. Attempting to adjust an old worn set of points is not practical, when compared with the modest cost of a new set, thus eliminating this area as a possible cause of trouble. If a worn set of points is to be retained for emergency use, both contact surfaces of the set should be refaced with a point file. magneto. Remove the lockwasher and nut from the primary ground screw securing the wire to the magneto. On models with a safety cutoff switch, the switch ground lead is also held by this screw. Remove the screw, O-w asher, and clip securing the ground wire to the front of the magneto. If a safety cutoff switch is installed, it will be necessary to remove the screw, O-w asher, and clip securing the switch wire to the magneto. Disconnect the air vent lines. Remove the four capscrews attaching the TYPE I SYSTEM 5-13 Removing the rotor from the distributor shaft. magneto to the magneto adaptor, and then lower the magneto about an inch in order to clear the magneto from the adaptor. SERVICING 2-Thoroughly clean the exterior of the magneto. If necessary, use a wire brush, solvent, and compressed air. NEVER submerge the magneto in solvent. Mount the magneto on a test block and slowly turn the rotor by hand. As the rotor is turned, if any binding or rubbing is felt, no further testing is necessary. The magneto must be disassembled because the bearings are badly worn. Do not confuse the "pull" due to the magnetic field during rotation with binding or rubbing. 3-If the evidence is clear that the magneto requires disassembly, remove the distributor cap, rotor, and the cover. TAKE CARE not to damage the parts. 4-Detach the breaker terminal screw securing the primary ground wire, condenser lead, and primary coil lead, and then remove the breaker assembly. Remove the condenser hold-down screw, condenser, and cam wick assembly. Separate the movable breaker assembly from the pivot post by removing the cotter pin and washer. Release the two hold-down screws, and then remove the stationary breaker assembly. 5-Disconnect the coil safetywire; backoff the setscrews; and then remove the coil from the distributor housing. Distributor cover removed, exposing the breaker point set. 5-14 IGNITION BEARING SUPPORT PLATE(D ISTRIBUTORPLATE) 6-Remove the screws and lockwashers securing the bearing support plate to the magneto frame. CAREFULLY press out the shaft. The distributor plate will also come out. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Check the timing belt for cracks, cuts, or other damage. The high-tension leads may be removed after the set screw inside the Magnetic Rotor Cracks Vertical cracks may be observed in the magnets. Actual tests have shown, without question, that the cracks in no way affect the performance either magnetically or physically for the following reasons: The magnet steel is a very hard, brittle material with low tensile strength. This material will crack despite all practical measures to prevent them. The cracks which are visible, generally all lie in a plane coinciding with the direction of magnetic flux. Therefore, the possibility of the cracks introducing additional air gaps across the flux path, which could cut down the available flux at the ignition coil, is eliminated. Leakage Paths The high-voltage surge of the secondary circuit may establish a path to ground by a different route than across the spark plug gap. Once such a path is established, the spark will most likely continue to jump across to ground. A surface leakage path can usually be detected because of the burning effect the high-voltage spark has on the plastic insulating material. The condition causing the high-voltage spark to stray from its intended circuit must be corrected. Any repairs of the unit should be performed very CAREFULLY, and should include discarding any insulating parts with evidence of high-voltage flashover. distributor cap has been removed. Inspecting the inside of the distributor cap for cracks, worn contacts, and cleanliness. The screwdriver points to a burned area where the coil had been arcing to the distributor housing. TYPE I SYSTEM 5-15 Corrosion One cause of complete magneto failure is oxidation inside the unit. Such oxidation is the result of continued high-voltage arcing within the housing. Interior corrosion is easily detected by the green discoloration of the copper and brass parts. Sometimes evidence of moisture condensation may be found. Oxidation may be eliminated, if it is detected in time, by removing the cause. Three common causes of oxidation inside a magneto are: a spark gap across a loose connection in the high-voltage circuit; carbon paths inside the magneto; and broken or sticking center spring-loaded terminal. OVERHAUL Usually an oxidized magneto can be cleaned and returned to satisfactory service. Examine the rubbing block for wear. If the rubbing block is worn to a contour similar to the cam, consider this as evidence of excessive wear. Replace the assembly. If the breaker arm pivot is too tight or too loose in the hole, the assembly should be replaced. UPPER SEALED BEARING. DISTRIBUTOR. ...,.. SHAFT MAGNETS UPPER SETHAG NETS LOWER SET LOWER SEALED BEARING BEARING SUPPORT PLATE (DISTRI BUTOR -+--PLATE) A normal set of breaker points used in a magneto will show evidence of a shallow crater and build-up after a few hours of operation. The left set of points is considered normal and need not be replaced. The set on the right has been in service for more than 450 hours and should be replaced. Inspect the breaker points for signs of pitting or pyramiding. In the accompanying illustrations, the set on the left shows only discoloration and some shallow pitting. This set has been operated for only 30 minutes and is considered in excellent condition. The set on the right has considerable buildup and deep crater formations. Running time on this set exceeds 450 hours and they should be replaced. 1>1 STRI BUTOR . SHAFT Arrangement of the magneto shaft, sealed bearings Closer look at the distributor shaft than the illustra( upper and lower), bearing support plate (distributor tion in the left column. The upper and lower magnets plate), and both sets of magnets. Note how the upper are more Vffible and are clearly shown offset from each set of magnets is offset 90° from the lower set. other at 90 • GASKET.. CAP t' ROTOR COVER IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII ___.J 5-16 IGNITION I I I II II I I .----..-..-----.. I HOUSING SHAFTASSEMBlY .. ---------1IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII Exploded drawing of a belt-driven magneto with points for the Type I ignition system, with major parts identified. TYPE I SYSTEM 5-17 SOFT-HEAD HAMMER TYPE I ASSEMBLING 1-CAREFULLY press the ball bearing drive end into the distributor frame housing. Press the ball bearing opposite drive end into the bearing support. Use ONLY a plastic or brass-headed mallet to tap the bearing support into the housing, checking to be sure it is properly aligned. Install the screws and lockwashers to support the frame. Tighten the screws SECURELY and evenly. Manually rotate the distributor shaft and magnet assembly and check to be sure there is no feel of binding. It most likely will be tight, now LIGHTLY tap the top of the shaft to seat the bearing. Breaker Assembly Installation 2-If the old points are to be installed, they should first be cleaned with a brush and tetrachloride, or equivalent. If new points are installed, place them in position, and then bring the two hold-down screws and washers up snug, but not tight. Clean the pivot post and apply a very light coating of Multi-Purpose Lubricant. TAKE CARE not to get any grease or oil on the breaker assembly. Install the washer and cotter pin. 3-Check the coil to be sure the bridge setscrews are in place. Install the coil and tighten the Allen setscrews securely. Secure the setscrews in place with safetywire. 4-Install the holder and cam wick assembly, and the condenser on top of the holder. Secure the condenser and holder in place with the hold-down screw. 5-18 IGNITION The screwdriver points out the cam wick and the space between the wick and the distributor shaft lobe. CAM WICK HOLDER l/64 " CAMWICK Cam Wick Setting FIRST, THESE WORDS: A new cam wick should be installed every 100 hours of engine operation and each time a breaker assembly is installed. The cam wick is specially lubricated and requires no further lubrication. Any additional lubrication would shorten breaker point life. If the cam wick is set too tight against the flat of the cam shaft, the result may be loosened fiber wick particles and possibly grease thrown off from the wick. If the wick is set too lightly, the cam wick will not lubricate the cam shaft, which will result in rapid wear of the cam follower portion of the breaker assembly. This type of wear will allow the point gap to close. Therefore, if the cam wick is not set Wire, bushing, screw, and assorted hardware used to connect the point set with the primary side of the coil. properly, the breaker points would burn and pitt very rapidly, causing the ignition system to fail. 5-Set the cam wick holder so the wick has 1/64" (0.40mm) clearance to the flat of the cam shaft. To make this adjustment, a 0.015" (0.38mm) feeler gauge may be used. After the proper setting has been made, secure the cam wick in place by tightening the hold-down screw. provide the only way to assure maximum contact area between the point surfaces and sa tisfactory point life. 10-If the points are not aligned properly, the result will be premature wear or pitting. This type of damage may change the cam angle, although the actual distance of movement between the points may remain the same. PROPER LATERAL ALIGNMENT LATERAL MI SALIGNMENT TYPE I SYSTEM 5-19 Point Alignment 6-Slide a washer onto the terminal screw, and then insert the screw into the primary lead of the coil. Slide the condenser lead, and then the ground lead onto the terminal screw. Hold the three leads to- C RRECTALIGNMENT ALIGNMENTCENTERS OF POINT FACU CONTACT @ AREA CENTERED AREA NOT CONTACT @ CENTERED AREA NOT CONTACT @ CENTERED 0 gether and in line to prevent them from shorting out on the support plate, and then insert the screw in the movable and stationary points. Tighten the screws. 7-Install the coil and condenser wires onto the point set stud. Secure the wires in position with the nut. 8-Check to be sure the wires have not rotated when the nut was tightened and make contact with the distributor base. If the wires do make contact, the points will be shorted out. To correct this condition, loosen the nut, reposition the wires, and then carefully tighten the nut. 9-Align the breaker points by bending or twisting ONLY the fixed contact point. The points MUST be aligned accurately to the best contact surface. This is Breaker Point Spring Tension If the spring tension is too tight, more than 37 ozs. (l,050gm), the breaker point catn follower will wear rapidly. If the earn follower wears, the breaker points may close after only 5-7 hours of operation. If the spring tension is below 33 ozs. (935grn), the breaker arm will flutter at high speed. Such a flutter will cause engine misfire at high speed. ® 11-Adjust the point spring with your FINGERS to 33-37 ozs. (935-1,050grn), tension. NEVER use pliers because a sharp bend wlll surely cause the spring to break later. Breaker Point Gap Setting 12-The breaker point gap may be set 0.008" to .01 0" (0.20mrn to 0.25rnm), when the cam follower fiber arm is on the highest part of the earn lobe. HOWEVER, a more efficient method is ° to adjust the points to 48 dwell. This setting will assure sufficient primary current build-up time. 13-Set the magneto housing drive end collar into the center opening of the dwell plate, with the air intake nozzle extended into the slot on the side of the plate. Install two flat-headed screws through the slots of the dwell plate and into the magneto mounting screw holes. DO NOT tighten the screws because the degree plate MUST be able to turn. Install the base of the indicator arm Setting the points on a synchronizing machine. Such equipment is only found in a professional repair shop. TYPE I SYSTEM 5-2 1 ·.. ',,. ·..DWELL . PLATE on the large splined drive coupling of the magneto. Tighten the setscrew in the base of the indicator arm. Clamp the large square end of the indicator arm in the vise so that both hands are free for adjusting. Connect one test lead of an ohmmeter or a self-powered timing lamp to the housing of the magneto. This will be the ground. Connect the second wire to the primary grounding screw. Now, with the breaker points open, SLOWLY rotate the magneto armature clockwise until the points close (the lamp lights). 14-Hold the magneto housing in this be closed slightly. If the rotation is more ° than 48 , the breaker points open too late, and the gap must be increased slightly. After each point gap adjustment, repeat the check. Distributor Cap Installation 15-Place a NEW gasket in position on the distributor housing, then place the magneto cover onto the housing. 16-Install the rotor with the rotor aligned with the spline. (On a FairbanksMorse magneto, align the rotor with the flat spot on the shaft.) position and at the same time rotate the dwell plate in either direction until the "Points Close" mark is in line with the indicator arm. Hold the dwell plate and magneto housing together, and at the same time rotate the assembly clockwise until the points close, which must fall on 0 ° , and remain closed until the pointer indicates the 48 ° "Points Open" position. If the rotation is less than 48 ° , the points open too soon, and the point gap must DISTRI BUTORSHAFT 17-If the high-tension lead was removed, install the lead and secure it place with the setscrew. Install the gasket and distributor cap. Slip the ground strap onto one of the distributor cap screws, then secure the cap in place with the two screws. Magneto Installation FIRST THESE WORDS: All powerheads covered in this manual have a magneto adaptor. The magneto can be slipped into the adaptor and secured in place with capscrews. The adaptor shaft and the magneto shaft have a blanked tooth and a missing spline. When the magneto is installed into the adaptor with the blanked tooth and missing spline aligned, the magneto is properly timed • 18-Install the magneto into the adaptor with the blanked tooth and missing spline on the shafts aligned, and then secure it in place with the capscrews. Magneto Drive Belt Replacement 19-If the adaptor has been removed, or if the drive belt timing has been disturbed, it is necessary to time the adaptor pulley to the timing mark on the flywheel. This is accomplished by first rotating the flywheel until the timing mark on the rim is aligned with the center of the crankshaft and the center of the driven pulley. Next, position the arrow on the pulley to point toward the timing mark. 20-Now, replace the timing belt, and then install the pia te, capscrew, and washers. Tighten the capscrew to a torque value of 6-in.-lbs (0.69Nm). Connect the battery leads to the battery teminals. For timing and synchronization procedures, see Chapter 6. TIMING HARK DIODE TYPE II SYSTEM 5-23 DIRECT CURRENT BLUE Schematic diagram of the Type II ignition system --Thunderbolt --with distributor --Lightning Energizer - pointless --as used on the 4-cylinder in-line powerhead. 5-6 TYPE II IGNITION SYSTEM THUNDERBOLT -DISTRIBUTOR LIGHTNING ENERGIZER -POINTLESS ALSO KNOWN AS ALTERNATOR DRIVER IGNITION (ADI) Description This ignition system is identified as Type II in the Specifications in the Appendix. A battery is not required for operation of the system, except for cranking the en gine. Once the engine is operating, the ignition is completely self-contained. The alternator driver (charging portion of the distributor) consists of a 4-pole permanent rotating magnet, stationary poles, and high-and low-speed voltage generating coils. The coils are housed in a die cast aluminum housing. The permanent rotating magnet is pressed onto the distributor shaft and is driven at crankshaft speed by a timing belt around the flywheel pulley and a distributor pulley. When the magnetic poles pass the stationary poles and generating coils, they produce AC voltage at the rate of 4 cycles per engine revolution. One side of the alternating current cycle charges a capacitor. The opposite side is used to discharge the capacitor into the ignition coil. This sequence occurs 4 times per engine revolution because there are 4 north polarity and 4 south polarity poles on the rotating magnet. The capacitor voltage is conducted into the ignition coil primary winding. A high strength magnetic field is built around the coil core. Since there is no voltage to sustain this magnetic field, the field collapses rapidly. The rapid collapse induces a high voltage in the coil secondary winding. This voltage is applied to the spark plugs through the ignition rotor, distributor cap and high tension leads. Advance or retard of the spark is possible by changing the position of the charging coils and stationary poles in relation to the permament magnet rotor poles. The engine is shut down by shorting the blue switch box terminal to ground with the key switch, tilt switch, or the ignition safety stop switch. CRITICAL WORDS: These next two paragraphs may well be the most important words in this chapter. Probably the No. 1 cause of electrical problems with outboard power plants is misuse of the wiring harness. A wiring harness is used between the key switch and the engine. This harness seldom contains wire of sufficient size to allow connecting accessories. Therefore, anytime a new accessory is installed, NEW wiring should be used between the battery and the accessory. A separate fuse panelMUST be installed on the dash. To connect the fuse panel, use two red and black No. 10 gauge wires from the battery. Again, let it be said, NEVER connect accessories through the key switch. TROUBLESHOOTING TYPE II IGNITION SYSTEM Always attempt to proceed with the troubleshooting in an orderly manner. The shot-in-the-dark approach will only result in wasted time, incorrect diagnosis, replacement of unneccessary parts, and frustration. 5-24 IGNITION Key switch located in the shift box. The box must be disassembled to service the key switch. Begin the ignition system troubleshooting with the spark plugs and continue through the system until the source of trouble is located. Key Switch A marine-type key switch MUST be installed as a replacement item. An automotive- type switch installation may cause damage to the system. Spark Plugs 1-Check the plug wires to be sure they are properly connected. Check the entire length of the wires from the plugs to the the distributor. If the wire is to be removed from the spark plug, ALWAYS use a pulling and twisting motion as a precaution against damaging the connection. 2-Attempt to remove the spark plugs by hand. This is a rough test to determine if the plug is tightened properly. You should not be able to remove the plug without using the proper socket size tool. Remove the spark plugs and keep them in order. Examine each plug and evaluate its condition as described in Section 5-2. 3-Use a spark tester and check for spark at each cylinder. If a spark tester is not available, hold the plug wire about 1/ 4" (6.35mm) from the engine. Turn the flywheel with a pull starter or electrical starter and check for spark. A strong spark over a wide gap must be observed when testing in this manner, because under com pression a strong spark is necessary in order to ignite the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder. This means it is possible to think you have a strong spark, when in reality the spark will TYPE II SYSTEM 5-25 be too weak when the plug is installed. If there is no spark, or if the spark is weak, the trouble is most likely in the distributor or in the switch box. Compression Before spending too much time and money attempting to trace a problem to the ignition system, a compression check of each cylinder should be made. If the cylinder does not have adequate compression, troubleshooting and attempted service of the ignition or fuel system will fail to give the desired results of satisfactory engine performance. Remove the spark plug wires by pulling and twisting ONLY on the molded cap. NEVER pull on the wire because the connection inside the cap may be separated or the boot be damaged. Remove the spark plugs and set them aside in order. This simple procedure will assist in evaluating the performance of each cylinder. GOOD WORDS When a compression check is performed, the spark plug leads MUST be grounded to the powerhead to prevent excessive strain on the coil. If the leads are not grounded, and simply left hanging, the coil will attempt to match the demand created by the spark trying to jump from the plug shell to nearest ground. Insert a compression gauge into the cylinder spark plug opening. Crank the engine for several revolutions and note the highest compression reading. Repeat the procedure for each cylinder. A variation in reading between the cylinders is far more important than the actual individual readings. If a particular cylinder varies more than 20 psi from the others, the cylinder may be scored, the rings frozen, or the piston burned. In-line outboard powerhead covered in this manual do not use a cylinder head. Therefore, low compression in one cylinder CANNOT be attributed to a blown head gasket. SERVICING TYPE II IGNITION SYSTEM Overhaul procedures may differ slightly on various outboard models, but the following general basic instructions will apply to all outboard engines equipped with the Type II ignition system --Thunderbolt lightning energizer ignition --pointless --with a distributor. When a compression check is performed, the spark plug leads MUST be grounded to the powerhead to prevent excessive strain on the coil. If the leads are not grounded, and simply left hanging, the coil will attempt to match the demand created by the spark trying to jump from the plug shell to nearest ground. REMOVAL 1-Remove the engine cowling. If a battery is used with the engine, disconnect the leads from the battery terminals. 2-Remove the vent hoses and the ground strap from the distributor. Remove the red, white, and blue wire leads on the blue switch box. 3-Remove the four hex head capscrews securing the distributor to the adaptor, and then remove the distributor from the powerhead. 4-Remove the distributor cap holding screws, and then lift off the cap. 5-Remove the rotor. 6-Back out the screws securing the cover, and then remove the cover. Discard the old gasket. TYPE II SYSTEM 5-27 RED BLUE COIL COIL 7-After the cover is removed, the lowand high-speed coils are visible. Remove the bearing ONLY if the ball bearings have been damaged. To determine damage, rotate the bearing and determine if it turns 0 smoothly for the complete 360 There • should be no evidence of binding or a "rough" spot. Coil Testing The low-and high-speed coils do not have to be removed for testing with an ohmmeter. WHITE The coils do not have to be removed for testing. An accurate test can be made with a connection to the LEAD distributor leads. 8-Connect one test lead of an ohmmeter to the red wire of the coil and the other test lead to the blue wire. Observe the reading. Move the test lead on the blue wire to the white wire and again observe the reading. Both readings should be 400 ohms. 9Connect one test lead to the blue wire and the other to the white. The reading should be 10 ohms. 10-Connect one test lead to a good ground on the distributor case. Test the red, blue, and white wires, one at a time. There should be NO continuity. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Check the ignition driver frame housing for dirt, rust, or corrosion. Remove rust or corrosion with No. 320 carborundum paper, and then be sure to wipe the housing clean. Inspect the rotating magnet and shaft assembly for rust or corrosion. Clean them thoroughly with No. 320 carborundum paper, and then wipe them clean. DO NOT use a wire brush. Check the condition of the high tension leads. Inspect and replace the bearings if there is any indication of wear or roughness. NEVER use solvent to clean bearings. Check the condition of the distributor cap assembly. Inspect the distributor cap for leakage paths caused by broken leads, poor connections, moisture, dirt, carbon, or corrosion. Before assembling the ignition driver, verify all parts have been properly cleaned and tested. Discard and replace any parts which are questionable. This is the only way to guarantee satisfactory engine performance after the work has been completed. TYPE II ASSEMBLING 1-Place a NEW gasket in position, and then install the ignition driver housing cover. Clean the splines inside the rotor and the distributor shaft. 2-Check to be sure the spring is pressed into the bottom of the splined hole of the rotor. Apply a couple drops of "Blue" Loctite, or equivalent, into the bottom of the splined hole in the rotor, and then install the rotor. . . . . !' ;, './',. WH ITE ..,'·· . ' ·· TYPE II SYSTEM 5-29 3-Install a NEW distributor cap gasket and then the cap. DISTRIBUTOR INSTALLATION First, some good words: The distributor is installed into an adaptor on the engine and secured with capscrews. The distributor drive coupling has a flat-sided tang. This tang indexes with a similar tang on the distributor shaft. This arrangement guarantees the distributor can only be installed one way, and therefore, accurate timing is maintained. Late models have a blanked tooth and missing spline to maintain timing. 4-Slide the distributor into the adaptor with tang on the distributor drive coupling indexed with the tang on the distributor shaft, or, on late models, with the blanked tooth and missing spline indexed. Secure the distributor in place with the capscrews. For timing and synchronization instructions, see Chapter 6. Drive Belt Installation 5-If the adaptor has been removed or if the drive belt timing has been disturbed, it will be necessary to time the adaptor pulley to the timing mark on the flywheel. This is accomplished by rotating the flywheel until the timing mark on the rim is aligned with the center of the crankshaft and the center of the driven pulley. Now, position the arrow on the pulley to point to the timing mark. I • RED COIL .. A-+-BLUE COIL ROTOR l GASKET COVER----.. 6-Install the timing belt around the distributor pulley. Position the cap on the end of distributor shaft. Secure the cap with the washer and capscrew. Tighten the capscrew to a torque value of 60 in.-lbs (0.68Nm). 7-Install the engine cowl. If a battery is used with the engine, install the leads to the battery terminals. For timing and synchronization procedures, see Chapter 6. SWITCH BOX Marine dealers will not allow the return of an electrical part after it leaves their store. Therefore, the switch box should be removed and tested by an authorized Marine Dealer, if there is reason to believe it is defective. If it is not defective, the expense of a new unit is saved. Exploded drawing of a belt-driven distributor for the Lightning Energizer Ignition system, with major parts identified. TYPE Ill SYSTEM 5-31 5-7 TYPE III IGNITION SYSTEM THUNDERBOLT -DISTRIBUTOR C.D. IGNITION --POINTLESS Description This ignition system is identified in the Specifications in the Appendix as Type III. C.D. is an abbreviation for "capacitor discharge". CRITICAL WORDS: These next two paragraphs may well be the most important words in this chapter. Probably the No. 1 cause of electrical problems with outboard power plants is misuse of the wiring harness. A wiring harness is used between the key switch and the engine. This harness seldom contains wire of sufficient size to allow connecting accessories. Therefore, anytime a new accessory is installed, NEW wiring should be used between the battery and the accessory. A separate fuse panelMUST be installed on the dash. To connect the fuse panel, use two red and black No. 10 gauge wires from the battery. C.D. ignition systems require a full 12-volts for proper operation. Therefore, again let it be said, NEVER connect accessories through the key switch. Key Switch A marine-type key switch MUST be installed as a replacement item. An automotive- type switch installation may cause damage to the system. Principles of Operation The flow of current from the battery to the spark plug is as follows: Battery voltage is supplied to the switch box at all times via the red wire. At the switch box, the battery voltage is inverted to create AC voltage. Switch box used with the Thunderbolt Lightning Energizer ignition system. This box MUsr be tested using special equipment available only at professional shops. A disc is used to protect .the trigger assembly from damage during shipment. This disc MUsr be removed before the unit is installed for service. This AC voltage is stepped up to a higher AC voltage and is rectified and stored in a capacitor in the switch box. Here the current awaits a trigger signal. When the key switch is turned to the ON position, a reduced voltage is conducted to the trigger. This trigger is located in the distributor housing and consists of two opposite faced coils. One coil produces a magnetic field and is considered the SENDER. The opposite coil produces a trigger Key switch located in the shift box. The box must be disassembled to service the key switch. 5-32 IGNITION IGNITION COIL SAFETYSWITCH TO ENGINE HARNESS ALTERNATOR FLYWHEEL DISTRI BUTOR HIGH-TENSION LEAD TO SPARK PLUGS BATIERY o ....E]E]o Fw1etionaZ diagram of the Type III ignition system covered in this section for a 3-cylinder powerhead. signal when a slot (window) in the rotor disc passes between these coils. Therefore, this second coil is considered the RECEIVER. Distributor and rotor used with the Capacitor Discharge (CD) ignition system. The rotor is a part of the shaft and CANNOT be removed. The rotor disc has one slot (window) for each cylinder in the engine. The disc is driven at crankshaft speed by the flywheel pulley, timing belt and distributor pulley. This trigger signal operates a SCR (switch control rectifier) which discharges the switch box capacitor into the primary winding of the ignition coil. A high strength magnetic field is built around the coil core. As the SCR turns off, there is no voltage to sustain this magnetic field, thus it collapses very rapidly, inducing a higher voltage in the secondary winding of the coil. This voltage is applied to the spark plugs by the distributor rotor, cap, and high-tension lead wires. Advance or retard is accomplished by rotating the trigger coils in relation to the rotor disc openings. The engine is shut down by turning the key switch to the OFF position. This action interrupts the battery voltage to the white terminal of the switch box. TYPE Ill SYSTEM 5-33 TROUBLESHOOTING TYPE Ill IGNITION SYSTEM Always attempt to proceed with the troubleshooting in an orderly manner. The "shot-in-the-dark" approach will only result in wasted time, incorrect diagnosis, replacement of unnecessary parts, and frustration. Begin the ignition system troubleshooting with the spark plugs and continue through the system until the source of trouble is located. Spark Plugs 1-Check the plug wires to be sure they are properly connected. Check the entire length of the wires from the plugs to the distributor. If the wire is to be removed from the spark plug, ALWAYS use a pulling and twisting motion as a precaution against damaging the connection. 2-Attempt to remove the spark plugs by hand. This is a rough test to determine if the plug is tightened properly. You should not be able to remove the plug without using the proper socket size tool. Remove the spark plugs and keep them in order. Examine each plug and evaluate its condition as described in Section 5-2. 3-Use a spark tester and check for spark at each cylinder. If a spark tester is not available, hold the plug wire about 3/8" to 1/2" (9.53 to 12.7 mm) from the engine. Turn the flywheel with a pull starter or electrical starter and check for spark. A strong spark over a wide gap must be observed when testing in this manner, because under compression a strong spark is necessary in order to ignite the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder. This means it is possible to think you have a strong spark, when in reality the spark will be too weak when the plug is installed. If there is no spark, or if the spark is weak, the trouble is most likely in the distributor or in the switch box. Compression Before spending too much time and money attempting to trace a problem to the ignition system, a compression check of each cylinder should be made. If the cylinder does not have adequate compression, troubleshooting and attempted service of the ignition or fuel system will fail to give the desired results of satisfactory engine performance. 5-34 IGNITION Remove the spark plug wires by pulling and twisting ONLY on the molded cap. NEVER pull on the wire because the con nection inside the cap may be separated or the boot be damaged. Remove the spark plugs. Insert a compression gauge into the cylinder spark plug hole. Crank the engine for several revolutions and note the final compression reading. Repeat the procedure for each cylinder. A variation in reading between the cylinders is far more important than the actual individual readings. If a particular cylinder varies more than 20 psi from the others, the cylinder may be scored, the rings frozen, or the piston burned. In-line outboard powerheads covered in this manual do not use a cylinder head. Therefore, low compression in one cylinder CANNOT be attributed to a blown head gasket. DISTRIBUTOR OR SWITCH BOX TESTING An ignition analyzer MUST be used to properly test the distributor or switch box. The specifications listed in the Appendix must be carefully met in all areas in order to obtain maximum engine efficiency. Actually, the best advice that can be given is to remove the distributor and switch box, and then take them to your favorite marine dealer for testing and check. By taking them to the dealer two things will be accomplished. First, the dealer is equipped with trained personnel and adequate equipment to do the job properly. Secondly, electrical parts, in almost all cases, cannot be returned once the item leaves the store. Therefore, the cost of purchasing unnecessary electrical components is avoided. In short, you save time, money, and frustration by having the testing done right the FIRST time. SERVICING TYPE III IGNITION SYSTEM Ignition overhaul procedures may differ slightly on various outboard models, but the following general basic instructions will apply to all outboard engines covered in this manual and equipped with the Type III ignition system --Thunderbolt --C.D. Ignition --pointless --with a distributor. When a compression check is performed, the spark plug leads MUgJ" be grounded to the powerhead to prevent excessive strain on the coil. If the leads are not grounded, and simply left hanging, the coil will attempt to match the demand created by the spark trying to jump from the plug shell to nearest ground. TYPE Ill SYSTEM ..35 i' COVER DRIVE PULLEY CAP NUT WAVY WASHER 0 ADAPTOR CAP WASHER LARGE WASHER BALL i BEARING ADAPTOR ----. 0 I1 ECONOKISER I I 0 : .J c:::» (OJ 1 e I <:...::> SPRING ---... I ..I : ROTOR Dl SC SPARK ADVANCE I STOP I DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING I AND TRIGGER ASSEMBLY I I I I I I I I I I Exploded drawing of belt-driven distributor for the Capacitor Discharge (CD) ignition system used on a 4-cylinder in-line powerhead, with major parts identified. ' COVER • • PULLEY 0 0 ...,, @ 0 0 0 c 0 ADAPTOR ROTOR SHAFT TRIGGER ' Exploded drawing of a belt-driven distributor for the Capacitor Discharge (CD) ignition system used on a 3-cylinder powerhead, with major parts identified. TYPE Ill SYSTEM 5-37 SPECIAL WORDS The photographs used in this section were taken with the Type III system installed on a 6-cylinder unit. The procedures for removal and installation are identical for a 4-cylinder powerhead and may be followed with complete confidence. REMOVAL 1-Remove the electrical harness and the battery leads from the engine. Remove the wrap-around cowling. Remove the support frame and rear support by removing the three nuts from the top of the cowl frame rubber mount. 2-Remove the two bolts and lockwashers at the front top of the support frame. Remove the four bolts and lockwashers at the bottom of the rear support bracket. Disconnect the choke solenoid wire at the solenoid, and then lift the top cowl support frame from the engine. At the switch box, disconnect the three wires from the distributor. 3-Remove the attaching bolt, and then remove the distributor pulley cover. Slip the timing belt off the pulley. Now, work the pulley, key, and spacer from the distributor shaft. 4-Remove the distributor drag link rod from the vertical throttle lever. Remove the ground wire screw from the distributor. Remove the three nuts, washer, and bolts securing the distributor to the engine, and then remove the distributor. ASSEMBLING Distributor Cap 5-Remove the distributor cap retainer clamp screw and nut. 6-Lift the cap and clamp from the distributor. Further disassembly of the distributor is not necessary, unless the rotor is no longer serviceable. If the rotor requires replacement, the distributor shaft must be removed and replaced with a new rotor and shaft assembly. The rotor CANNOT be removed from the shaft and replaced separately. Bend the tabs of the adaptor cap washer open, and then remove the washer. Lift out the larger washer and CAREFULLY press the bearing out of the housing by working through the two holes provided for this purpose. Remove the nut and GENTLY tap the distributor shaft free. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Inspect the ball bearings and the distrib TYPE HI DISTRIBUTOR GOOD WORDS If the distributor shaft and rotor were disassembled perform the tasks in the next three paragraphs. If the shaft and rotor were not disassembled, proceed directly to Step 1. Insert the distributor shaft through the rotor disc. Support the distributor housing between two blocks of wood in a vise. CAREFULLY, yes, very CAREFULLY tap the end of the distributor shaft. The shaft will pass through the bearing and associated parts as shown in the exploded drawing. Continue working the shaft in until the collar on the shaft seats into the recess of the distributor. Thread the nut onto the distributor shaft. Slide the bearing onto the shaft. utor housing for wear, dirt, or corrosion. Replace any defective parts. Carefully check the condition of the high-tension leads. Check the distributor cap for leakage paths. Such paths may be caused by broken leads, poor connections, moisture, dirt, carbon, or corrosion inside the distributor. TYPE Ill SYSTEM 5-39 DISTRIBUTOR TIMING HARKS Continue to slide the bearing further onto the shaft by working through the two holes provided for this purpose, until the bearing makes contact with the backside of the nut. Replace the large washer. Slide the adaptor cap washer onto the shaft, then bend the tabs downward to secure it in place. 1-Place the distributor cap assembly onto the distributor housing. TAKE CARE not to damage the brush or spring. Install the distributor cap clamp and retainer with the screw and nut. Position the clamp screw and nut as shown. 2-Position the distributor and distributor adaptor assembly onto the engine block mounting flange. Check to be sure the driven pulley spacer and the distributor drive key are in position. Install the three screws securing the distributor to the engine block. 3-Align the arrow on the pulley with the timing mark on the flywheel, and then install the timing belt. Install the distributor pulley cover and secure it in place with the screw. Tighten the screw to a torque value of 60 in.-lbs (0.68Nm). 4-Install the ground strap and connect the link rod to the vertical lever. Connect the high-tension lead to the coil and the high-tension wires to the spark plugs. Install the vent tubes. Connect the three trigger lead wires to the switch box matching the color code on the wires. Cover the terminals with a coating of neoprene. 5-Install the cowl mounting brackets. Connect the electrical leads to the battery. For timing and synchronization instructions, see Chapter 6. Install the wrap-around cowl. FLYWHEEL IGNITION SPARKCOIL PLUG(4 PLACES) (4 PLACES) i !I 1"":"' -::­ i !I 1This system 5-40 IGNITION STOP SWITCH ...L Functional diagram of the Type N ignition system covered in this section for a 4-cylinder powerhead. was used only on the Model SOOEL, 1975. 5-8 TYPE IV IGNITION SYSTEM THUNDERBOLT -FLYWHEEL -CD POINTLESS SPECIAL WORDS On all powerheads equipped with a flywheel magneto, the rectifier will be damaged if the battery leads are disconnected from the battery while the engine is running or if the leads should accidently be reversed. This is a safety feature designed by the manufacturer because the cost of replacing a rectifier is a fraction of the cost for a new switch box. Description This ignition system is identified in the Specifications in the Appendix as Type IV. C.D. is an abbreviation for "capacitor discharge". The Type IV ignition system consists of a stator mounted around the crankshaft under the flywheel; a generating coil for each cylinder attached to the stator; permanent magnets fastened to the inside rim of the flywheel; a second set of magnets installed within the flywheel hub; a trigger coil mounted under the flywheel; a rectifier; a capacitor; and a switch box along with associated wiring. OperationType IV Ignition System As the crankshaft and flywheel rotate, the magnets pass the generating coils. As they pass the coils, an AC voltage is generated at the coil terminals. This AC voltage is conducted to the switch box, where it is rectified and stored in a capacitor. The trigger coil is also mounted under the flywheel, and a second set of magnets is installed in the flywheel hub. This second set of magnets causes the trigger coil to produce AC voltage as the flywheel rotates. This voltage is conducted to the switch box, where it is connected to a switch (SCR). Polarity of the AC trigger signal determines into which ignition coil the capacitor will be discharged. An ignition coil is installed for each cylinder. The capacitor voltage is conducted to the primary winding of the ignition coil where a high strength magnetic field is built around the coil core. As the switch (SCR) turns off, there is no voltage to sustain this magnetic field, and it collapses rapidly. This rapid collapse induces a very high voltage in the secondary winding of the coil. This voltage is applied to the spark plug by a high-tension lead. TYPE IV SYSTEM 5-4 1 The preceding sequence occurs once per engine revolution for each cylinder. Change in spark timing, advance or retard, is accomplished by rotating the trigger coil in relationship to the magnets on the flywheel hub. The engine is shut down by shorting the orange wire switch box terminal or the charging coil terminal block under the edge of the flywheel to ground with the key switch, the stop button, or the ignition safety stop switch. CRITICAL WORDS: These next two paragraphs may well be the most important words in this chapter. Probably the No. 1 cause of electrical problems with outboard power plants is misuse of the wiring harness. A wiring harness is used between the key switch and the engine. This harness seldom contains wire of sufficient size to allow connecting accessories. Therefore, anytime a new accessory is installed, NEW wiring should be used between the battery and the accessory. A separate fuse panelMUST be installed on the control panel. To connect the fuse panel, use two red and black No. 10 gauge wires from the battery. C.D. ignition systems require a full 12-volts for proper operation. Therefore, again let it be said, NEVER connect accessories through the key switch. Key Switch A marine-type key switch MUST be installed as a replacement item. An automotive- type switch installation may cause damage to the system. TROUBLESHOOTING TYPE IV IGNITION SYSTEM Always attempt to proceed with the troubleshooting in an orderly manner. The "shot-in-the-dark" approach will only result in wasted time, incorrect diagnosis, replacement of unnecessary parts, and frustration. Begin the ignition system troubleshooting with the spark plugs and continue through the system until the source of trouble is located. Spark Plugs 1-Check the plug wires to be sure they are properly connected. Check the entire length of the wires from the plugs to the coils. If the wire is to be removed from the spark plug, ALWAYS use a pulling and twisting motion as a precaution against damaging the connection. Key switch located in the shift box. The box must be disassembled to service the key switch. 5-42 IGNITION 2-Attempt to remove the spark plugs by hand. This is a rough test to determine if the plug is tightened properly. You should not be able to remove the plug without using the proper socket size tool. Remove the spark plugs and keep them in order. Examine each plug and evaluate its condition as described in Section 5-2. 3-Use a spark tester and check for spark at each cylinder. If a spark tester is not available, hold the plug wire about 1/ 4-" (6.35mm) from the engine. Turn the flywheel with a pull starter or electrical starter and check for spark. A strong spark over a wide gap must be observed when testing in this manner, because under com pression a strong spark is necessary in order to ignite the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder. This means it is possible to think you have a strong spark, when in reality the spark will be too weak when the plug is installed. If there is no spark, or if the spark is weak, the trouble is most likely under the flywheel in the CD system. ONE MORE WORD: Each cylinder has its own ignition system in a flywheel-type ignition system. This means if a strong spark is observed on any one cylinder and not at another, only the weak system is at fault. However, it is always a good idea to check and service all systems while the flywheel is removed. On four-cylinder engines, failure of the trigger coil will affect two cylinders. Compression Before spending too much time and money attempting to trace a problem to the ignition system, a compression check of each cylinder should be made. If the cylinder does not have adequate compression, troubleshooting and attempted service of the ignition or fuel system will fail to give the desired results of satisfactory engine performance. Remove the spark plug wires by pulling and twisting ONLY on the molded cap. NEVER pull on the wire because the connection inside the cap may be separated or the boot be damaged. Remove the spark plugs. Insert a compression gauge into the cylinder spark plug hole. Crank the engine for several revolutions and note the final compression reading. Repeat the procedure for each cylinder. A variation in reading between the cylinders is far more important than the actual individual readings. If a particular cylinder varies more than 20 psi from the others, the cylinder may be scored, the rings frozen, or the piston burned. In-line outboard engines covered in this manual do not use a cylinder head. Therefore, low compression in one cylinder CANNOT be attributed to a blown head gasket. Testing The thunderbolt ignition stator assembly and stator coil tests may be made without removing the flywheel. Refer to the tables given on pages 5-50 thru 5-53. Be sure to use the correct table for the unit being serviced. The test will indicate if the switch box or the flywheel components are defective. The flywheel does not have to be removed in order to replace the switch box. Naturally, if any parts under the flywheel are defective, the flywheel must be removed in order to replace them. All of the tests may be performed with a VOA (Volt/Ohm/ Ampere) meter or with an ignition analyzer. The general procedure is to disconnect the leads from the switch box terminals, and then to make the test with the meter. Compare the results with the Specifications given on Pages 5-50 thru 5 53. When a compression check is performed, the spark plug leads MUSI' be grounded to the powerhead to prevent excessive strain on the coil. If the leads are not grounded, and simply left hanging, the coil will attempt to match the demand created by the spark trying to jump from the plug shell to nearest ground. TYPE IV SYSTEM >.43 Replace any part that fails to meet the specifications. These tests are difficult to perform without the proper test equipment. Your local marine shop is equipped to make an accurate determination of serviceable or faulty components. SERVICING TYPE IV IGNITION SYSTEM The Type IV ignition system installed on the outboard engines covered in this manual will usually operate over extremely long periods of time without requiring adjustment or repair. However, if ignition system problems are encountered, and the usual corrective actions such as replacement of spark plugs and timing check does not correct the problem, the CD output should be checked to determine if the unit is functioning properly. Ignition overhaul procedures may differ slightly on various outboard models, but the following general basic instructions will apply to all high-speed flywheel CD ignition systems. REMOVAL 1-Remove enough of the engine cowl or cover to expose the flywheel. Disconnect the leads from the battery terminals. 5-44 IGNITION 2-Remove the crankshaft nut in the center of the flywheel. A flywheel strap may be required to hold the flywheel securely while the nut is loosened. 3-Obtain the proper type flywheel puller. NEVER attempt to use a puller which pulls on the outside edge of the flywheel or the flywheel may be damaged. After the puller is installed, tighten the center screw onto the end of the crankshaft. Continue tightening the screw until the flywheel is released from the crankshaft. Remove the flywheel. 4-Determine the faulty part, if this has not been done, according to the Troubleshooting and Testing procedures in this Section. Remove the faulty part paying particular attention to wiring connections. Take time to either make a drawing or take a polaroid picture of the area to ENSURE, without a doubt, the wiring will be connected in proper sequence. 5-Check the inside of the flywheel for any indication of metal particles adhering to the magnets. Insert the key into the crankshaft keyway, and then slide the flywheel onto the crankshaft, with the slot in the flywheel aligned with the key on the crankshaft. Install and tighten the flywheel nut to a torque value of 100ft lb ( 136Nm). 6-Install the hand starter, if one is used. Install the cowl or engine cover. Connect the battery leads to the battery terminals. For timing and synchronizing, see Chapter 6. 5-9 TYPE V IGNITION SYSTEM THUNDERBOLT -FLYWHEEL -C.D. COIL PER CYLINDER Description This ignition system is identified in the Specifications in the Appendix as Type V. C.D. is an abbreviation for "capacitor discharge". This system has been used on Mercury Outboard engines since 1973 and on Mariner Outboard units since 1976. The Specifications lists the models with the Type V system installed. The system consists of two sets of permanent magnets, a stator assembly, trigger assembly, switchbox, rectifier, capacitor, one ignition coil per cylinder, one spark plug per cylinder. One set of permanent magnets is installed on the inside outer rim of the flywheel. The second set of magnets is mounted around the flywheel hub. The ignition rectifier and capacitor are housed within the switch box. The stator assembly is mounted below the flywheel and contains the four ignition coils. Two or three more coils, in addition to the four ignition coils, are used with the trigger assembly. The trigger assembly on a 3-cylinder powerhead has three coils and 4cylinder units have only two coils. None of the coils rotate --they remain stationery. TYPE V SYSTEM S-45 When the second set of magnets passes the trigger coils, AC voltage is produced and conducted to an electronic switch (SCR) in the switchbox. Theory of Operation To begin a complete cycle: when the permanent magnets in the flywheel rim pass the stator ignition coils, AC voltage is produced. This voltage is conducted to the switch box where it is rectified and stored in the capacitor. When the second set of magnets pass the trigger coils, another AC voltage is produced and conducted to an electronic switch (SCR) in the switch box. The switch discharges the capacitor voltage into the ignition coil at a precise time and in the proper firing order sequence. The capacitor voltage is conducted to the primary windings of the ignition coil. When the field generated by the coil (actually an electrical pulse) collapses, a high AC voltage charge is generated in the secondary windings and then conducted through the high-tension leads to the spark plugs. This high-voltage jumps the gap between the electrodes of the spark plug and ignites the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder. This sequence occurs once for each cylinder per crankshaft revolution. Advance or retard is accomplished by rotating the trigger coil position in relation to the permanent magnets on the flywheel hub. Single switch box installation on a 4-cylinder in-line Flywheel removed exposing the stator, trigger aspowerhead. Notice the coil for each cylinder. sembly and other ignition parts for testing and service. 5-46 IGNITION TO CYLINDERNO. 1 STATOR RECTIFIER TO CONNECTOR FUllctional diagram of the Type V ignition system for a 3-cylinder powerhead, with major parts identified. CRITICAL WORDS: These next two paragraphs may well be the most important words in this chapter. Probably the No. 1 cause of electrical problems with outboard power plants is misuse of the wiring harness. A wiring harness is used between the key switch and the engine. This harness seldom contains wire of sufficient size to allow connecting accessories. Therefore, anytime a new accessory is installed, NEW wiring should be used between the battery and the accessory. A separate fuse panelMUST be installed on the dash. To connect the fuse panel, use two red and black No. 10 gauge wires from the battery. C.D. ignition systems require a full 12-volts for proper operation. ·Therefore, again let it be said, NEVER connect accessories through the key switch. Key Switch A marine-type key switch MUST be installed as a replacement item. An automotive- type switch installation may cause damage to the system. TROUBLESHOOTING TYPE V IGNITION SYSTEM READ, BELIEVE, & OBEY: Never touch or disconnect any ignition part on an engine equipped with the Type V ignition system while the engine is running; while the key switch is ON; or while the battery cables are connected, because high voltage is present. The following safety precautions are listed for your personal safety and to prevent damage to expensive parts. corrosion. If the key switch requires replacement or service, the shift box must be disassembled. TYPE V SYSTEM 5-47 NEVER reverse battery cable connections. The battery negative (-) is ground. The black cable must always be connected to this terminal. The red cable must always be connected to the positive (+) terminal. NEVER check polarity by "sparking" the battery terminals with the battery cable connections. NEVER disconnect the battery cables while the engine is running. NEVER crank the engine if the switch boxes are not properly grounded to the engine. The switchbox and ignition coils cannot be thoroughly checked with conventional test equipment. A Quicksilver Thunderbolt Ignition Analyzer is required to properly check these items. All other components can be tested with a VOA (Volt/Ohm/Ampere) meter. ALWAYS check the following areas for sources of trouble BEFORE opening the ignition system. Check to be sure the electrical harness, ignition switch, and safety cutoff switch are not the source of the problem. Verify that the plug-in connectors are fully engaged and the terminals are free of Check to be sure all electrical components and/or ground wires are properly grounded to the engine. Inspect visible wire connections to be sure they are tight and free of corrosion. Observe the entire electrical system for disconnected wires, and for short or open circuits. Ready For Troubleshooting Always attempt to proceed with the troubleshooting in an orderly manner. The "shot-in-the-dark" approach will only result in wasted time, incorrect diagnosis, replacement of unnecessary parts, and frustration. Begin the ignition system troubleshooting with the spark plugs and continue through the system until the source of trouble is located. Spark Plugs 1-Check the plug wires to be sure they are properly connected. Check the entire length of the wires from the plugs to the coil. If the wire is to be removed from the spark plug, ALWAYS use a pulling and twisting motion as a precaution against damaging the connection. 5-48 IGNITION 2-Attempt to remove the spark plugs by hand. This is a rough test to determine if the plug is tightened properly. You should not be able to remove the plug without using the proper socket size tool. Remove the spark plugs and keep them in order. Examine each plug and evaluate its condition as described in Section 5-2. 3-Use a spark tester and check for spark at each cylinder. If a spark tester is not available, hold the plug wire about 1/ 4" (6.35mm) from the engine. Turn the flywheel with a pull starter or electrical starter and check for spark. A strong spark over a wide gap must be observed when testing in this manner, because under com pression a strong spark is necessary in order to ignite the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder. This means it is possible to think you have a strong spark, when in reality the spark will be too weak when the plug is installed. If there is no spark, or if the spark is weak, the trouble is most likely in the C.D. system. ONE MORE WORD: Each cylinder has its own ignition system in a flywheel-type ignition system. This means if a strong spark is observed on any one cylinder and not at another, only the weak system is at fault. However, it is always a good idea to check and service all systems while the flywheel is removed. Compression Before spending too much time and money attempting to trace a problem to the ignition system, a com pression check of each cylinder should be made. If the cylinder does not have adequate compression, troubleshooting and attempted service of When a compression check is performed, the spark plug leads MUST be grounded to the powerhead to prevent excessive strain on the coil. If the leads are not grounded, and simply left hanging, the coil will attempt to match the demand created by the spark trying to jump from the plug shell to nearest ground. TYPE V SYSTEM 5-49 the ignition or fuel system will fail to give satisfactory engine performance. Remove the spark plug wires by pulling and twisting ONLY on the molded cap. NEVER pull on the wire because the connection inside the cap may be separated or the boot be damaged. Remove the spark plugs. Insert a compression gauge into the cylinder spark plug hole. Crank the engine for several revolutions and note the final compression reading. Repeat the procedure for each cylinder. A variation in reading between the cylinders is far more important than the actual individual readings. If a particular cylinder varies more than 20 psi from the others, the cylinder may be scored, the rings frozen, or the piston burned. Stator Types Two types of stator assemblies are installed. One type has a black ground wire. The stator is grounded to the engine through this black ground wire. The other type does not have the black ground wire. The stator is grounded directly to the engine through the stator mounting plate. The stator and trigger leads are connected to terminals on the switch box. Refer to the wiring diagrams in the Appendix for the correct color coded wire locations. FIRST, THESE WORDS Refer to the wiring diagrams in the Appendix for correct color coded wire location. CAUTION The switch boxes MUST be properly grounded to the powerhead before cranking or the switch boxes will be damaged. Stator Coil Test The stator must be grounded to the powerhead. Disconnect the stator leads from the switch box. If the specified readings are not obtained, the stator assembly MUST be replaced, see Servicing in this section. If the stator assembly passed this test, reconnect the leads to the inner box. Trigger Assembly Test FIRST, these words: The switch boxes MUST be properly grounded to the powerhead before making this series of tests. Perform the test indicated in the accompanying table. If the specified readings are not obtained, the trigger assembly MUST be replaced, see Servicing in this section. Ignition Coil Test FIRST, these words: A VOA meter is only capable of detecting certain faults in an ignition coil. Replace the coil, if the meter readings are not as specified in the accompanying chart. If the coil tests are satisfactory, but the coil is still suspected, an Ignition Analyzer must be used to check the coil further. If an analyzer is not available the coil should be replaced or checked at your Mercury dealer. CAUTION The switch boxes MUST be properly grounded to the powerhead before cranking the engine, or the switch boxes will be damaged. Continuity Test Shift Box Side Remote Control Harness Connector 1-Remove the remote control w1rmg harness and the instrument panel connectors at the powerhead. The wiring diagrams in the Appendix will be helpful when making the connections after testing. Connect one lead of the ohmmeter to the No. 7 terminal 5-50 IGNITION THUNDERBOLT IGNITION CHECKS STATOR CHECKS Model and Part Tested Tester Leads Connected To: Ohm ScaleReading Year Scale Stator Coil (Low Speed) Between Red and White (ignition driver) leads R X 100 10-1 1 .500 Stator Coil (High Speed) Between Blue and White {ignition driver) leads R X 1 197.5 Ignition Between Red lead and (Ignition Driver) case (Ground) Rx 1000 No Cont. Note 1 Driver Between White lead and ignition driver case (Ground) R X 1000 No Cont. Coils Between Blue Lead and ignition driver case (Ground) R X 1000 No Cont. (Low Speed) Between Blue stator wire and Blue/White stator wire R X 1000 .5.7-8.0 .500 (High Speed) Between Red stator wire and Red/White stator wire R X 1 .56-76 1976-78 Stator Assembly Between Blue stator wire and powerhead ground Between Red stator wire and powerhead ground R X 1000 R X 1000 No Cont. No Cont. 6.50-700 (Low Speed) Between Blue stator wire and Red stator wire R X 1000 .5.4-6.2 1976-79 Stator Assembly (High Speed) Between Red stator wire and powerhead Ground Rx l 12.5-17.5 800 (Low Speed) Betw..en Blue stator wire and Blue/White stator wire R X 1000 .5.7-8.0 1969-79 Stator Assembly (High Speed) Between Red stator wire and Red/White stator wire R X 1 .56-76 8.50 Between Blue stator wire and powerhead Ground R X 1000 No Cont. 1973-77 Between Red Stator wire and powerhead Ground R X 1000 No Cont. 4.5hp 1986 &. On Notes 2 &. 3 Stator Assembly Between Blue and Blue/White stator leads Between Red and Red/White stator leads Between Blue stator lead and powerhead Ground R X 1000 Rx l R X 1000 ..5.7-8.0 .56-76 No Cont. Between Red stator lead and powerhead Ground R X 1000 No Cont. .50hp 4-Cyl Between Blue and Blue/White stator leads R X 1000 .5.7-8.0 1980-8.5 Notes 2 &. 3 Stator Assembly Between Red and Red/White stator leads Between Blue stator lead and powerhead Ground Rx l R X 1000 .56-76 No Cont. Between Red stator lead and powerhead Ground R X 1000 No Cont. ..50hp 3-Cyl. Between Blue and Blue/White stator leads R X 1000 .5.7-8.0 1986·-90 Notes 2 &. 3 Stator Assembly Between Red and Red/White stator leads Between Blue stator lead and powerhead Ground R X 1 R X 1000 .56-76 No Cont. Between Red stator lead and powerhead Ground R X 1000 No Cont. 60hp Between Blue and Blue/White stator leads R X 1000 .5.7-8.0 1984 -90 Notes 2 &. 3 Stator Assembly Between Red and Red/White stator leads Between Blue stator lead and powerhead Ground R X l R X 1000 .56-76 No Cont. Between Red stator lead and powerhead Ground R X 1000 No Cont • 70hp 1980-83 Notes 2 &. 3 Stator Assembly Between Blue and Red stator leads Between Red stator lead and powerhead Ground R X 1000 Rxl .5.4-6.2 12.5-17.5 7.5hp Between Blue and Blue/White stator lead R X 1000 .5.7-8.0 1984-86 Stator Assembly Between Red and Red/White stator leads R X 1 .56-76 Notes 2 &. 3 Between Blue stator lead and powerhead Ground R X 1000 No Cont. Between Red stator lead and powerhead Ground R X 1000 No. Cont. 80hp &. Between Blue and Blue/White stator lead R X 1000 .5.7-8.0 8.5hp Stator Assembly Between Red and Red/White stator leads Rx l .56-76 1980-83 Between Blue stator lead and powerhead Ground R x 1000 No Cont. Notes 2 &. 3 Between Red stator lead and powerhead Ground R X 1000 No. Cont. .50ho &. 60hp Between Red and Blue stator leads R X 1000 3.6-4.2 1991 &. On Stator Assembly Between Red stator lead and powerhead Ground R X 1 90-140 70hp, 7.5hp, 80hp &. 90hp 1987 &. On Notes 2 &. 3 R X 1000 6.0-7.0 Between Blue and Blue/White stator leads lOOhp, &. llOhp Stator Assembly Between Red and Red/White stator lead Rx l 90-140 1987 &. On Notes 2 &. 3 Note 1 Not necessary to disassemble ignition driver. Leads must be disconnected from switch box. Note 2 Disconnect stator leads from switchbox. Note 3 Above resistance readings ('lre for a cold powerhead (room temperature). Resistance will increase if powerhead is warm. THUNDERBOLT TRIGGER TESTS See Note 1 Below MODEL CYLINDER YEAR IGN. TESTER LEADS TO OHM METER TYPE SCALE READ. 500 4 1965-75 II Not Applicable --No Test 650 3 1965-76 III Between Black lead and trigger housing (powerhead ground). 800 4 1969-72 III Equipped with Blue coil -Unable R X 1 Continuity to test with Ohmmeter. White trigger lead and case ground. Rx1 Continuity 850 4 1973-75 IV White trigger lead and case ground. R X 1 Continuity All 3 1976&0n v Between Brown and White/Black R X 100 11-14 trigger leads. Between White and White/Black R X 100 11-14 trigger leads. Between Violet and White/Black R X 100 11-14 . trigger leads. All 4 1976 & On v Between Brown and White/Black R X 100 7-10 .. trigger leads. ::0 Between White and Violet R X 100 7-10 C) (') trigger leads. ::0 m NOTE 1 The trigger leads MUST be disconnected before making these tests. rrl(/) NOTE 2 Above resistance readings are for a cold engine (room temperature). (/) .. Resistance will increase, if powerhead is warm. VI&. 5-52 IGNITION THUNDERBOLT IGNITION COIL CHECKS 1970 thru 1979 See NOTE 1 Below Model and Test Tester leads to: Ohm Scale Scale Reading Year 500 Primary "Pos" and "Neg" lead wires R X 1000 0 1968-74 Secondary Either primary lead wire and coil tower R X 1000 28 -34 500 Primary (Note 2) "Pos" and "Neg" terminals R X 1 .01 -.02 1975 Secondary Ground (or pigtail if not mounted) R X 10 57 -73 and coil tower 500 Primary (Note 2) "Pos" and "Neg" terminals R X 1 .02 -.04 1976-79 Secondary Ground (or pigtail if not mounted) R X 100 9-12 and coil tower 650 Primary "Pos" and "Neg" lead wires R X 1000 0 1968-70 Secondary Either primary lead wire and coil tower R X 1000 28 -34 650 Primary (Coil 2-7 /8" high) "Pos" & "Neg" terminals R X 1 .0 1 -.02 3-cyl. Secondary (Coil 2-7 /8" high) Ground (or pigtail if R X 1000 9-10.5 1972-74 not mounted) and coil tower Primary (Coil 3-3/8" high) "Pos" & "Neg" Terminals R X 1 .0 1 -.02 Secondary (Coil 3-3/8" high) Ground (or pigtail if R X 10 57 -73 not mounted) and coil tower 650 Primary (Note 2) "Pos" and "Neg" terminals R X 1 .0 1 -.02 1975 Secondary Ground (or pigtail if not moun ted) R X 10 57 -73 and coil tower 650 Primary (Note 2) "Pos" and "Neg" terminals R X 1 .02 -.04 1976-79 Secondary Ground (or pigtail if not mounted) R X 100 9-12 and coil tower 700 Primary (Note 2) "Pos" and "Neg" terminals R X 1 .02 -.04 1976-79 Secondary Ground (or pigtail if not mounted) R X 100 9-12 and coil tower 800 Primary (Small blue coil) "Pos" & "Neg" terminals R X 10 .0 1 -.03 1971-72 Secondary (Small blue coil) Ground (or pigtail if R X 10 54 -60 not mounted) and coil tower 800 Primary (Note 2) "Pos" and "Neg" terminals R X 1 .02 -.04 1976-79 Secondary Ground (or pigtail if not mounted) R X 100 9-12 and coil tower 850 Primary "Pos" and "Neg" lead wires R X 1 .0 1 -.02 1973 Secondary Either primary lead and powerhead ground R X 1000 28 -34 850 Primary "Pos" and "Neg" terminals R X 10 .01 -.02 1974 Secondary Ground (or pigtail if not mounted) R X 10 57 -73 850 Primary (Note 2) "Pos" and "Neg" terminals R X 1 .02 -.04 1975-79 Secondary Ground (or pigtail if not mounted) R X 100 9-12 and coil tower NOTE 1 Disconnect coil POS and NEG and coil secondary wire prior to testing. The secondary wire is the wire to the spark plug or the distributor. NOTE 2 The primary DC resistance of these coils generally is less than one (1) Ohm . If a reading resembling a short (complete circuit) is obtained, this would be proper. Copper wire is an excellent conductor, but will have a noticeable difference in resistance from cold to hot temperatures. Reasonable variations from these specified readings are acceptable. COIL TESTS 5-53 IGNITION COIL TEST 45 HP, 50 HP, 60 HP, 70 HP, 80HP, 90HP, lOOHP, AND 115HP 1980 &ON Disconnect wires from the positive (+) and negative (-) coil terminals. Remove the spark plug (high-tension) lead from the coil tower. Test Leads Ohm Scale Meter Reading Between (+) and (-) coil terminals Rx l .02 . 04 Between coil tower and either (+) or (-) coil terminal R X 1000 No Continuity Orange color coils only -between coil tower and powerhead ground (if mounted) or to sm all pigtail wire on back side (if removed). This test cannot be performed on blue color coils. R X 1000 9-12 NOTE: VOA meter tests can only detect certain faults in the ignition coils. Replace the coil if VOA meter readings (listed in the above chart) are not as specified. If coil tests satisfactory, and coil is still suspected of being faulty, use Quicksilver ignition Analyzer (C-91-62563A 1) to thoroughly check coil, or simply replace the coil. and the other lead to the No. 4 terminal of Check to be sure the shift lever is in the the remote control harness connector. Use neutral position. Connect one lead of the the RXl scale. Check to be sure the key ohmmeter to terminal No. 1 and the other switch is in the OFF position. The ohmlead to terminal No. 3 of the remote control meter MUST indicate continuity. harness connector. Move the key switch to Connect one meter lead to terminal the RUN/START position. The ohmmeter No. 1 of the remote control harness conMUST indicate continuity. nector and the other test lead to terminal Ignition Switch Test Commander Shift Box Installation 2-Remove the remote control w1rmg harness and the instrument panel connectors "A" Move of the the instrument panel connector. key switch to the RUN position. The ohmmeter MUST indicate continuity. --YELLOW -RED -----TAN ----GRAY ---PURPLE REMOTE CONTROL ENGINE CONNECTOR HARNESS at the powerhead. The wiring diagrams in the Appendix will be helpful when making connections after testing. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the Black (M) terminal and the other lead to the Black/Yellow (M) ---BLACK terminal of the remote control harness connector. Use the RXl scale. Check to be PURPLE ..A 0..--BlACK BlACK/YELLOW .. M RED---+-B s.. YELLOW/RED YELLOW/BLACK..C (3) sure the key switch IS m the OFF position. The ohmmeter MUST indicate continuity. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the Red (B) terminal and the other lead to the Purple (A) terminal of the remote control harness connector. Use the RXl scale. Rotate the key switch to the RUN position. The ohmmeter MUST indicate continuity. Check to be sure the shift lever is in the NEUTRAL position. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the Red (B) terminal and the other lead to the Yellow/Red (S) terminal of the remote control harness connector. Move the key switch to the RUN/START position. The ohmmeter MUST indicate continuity. Keep the key switch in the RUN/START position and check for continuity between the Purple (A) terminal and the Yellow/Red (S) terminal. Repeat the continuity check between the Red (B) terminal and the Purple (A) terminal on the remote harness connector. In each test, the ohmmeter MUST indicate continuity. Position the key switch in the CHOKE position. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the Red (B) terminal and the other lead to the Yellow/Black (C) terminal of the remote control harness connector. Keep the key switch in the CHOKE position and check for continuity between the Purple (A) terminal and the Red (B) terminal. Repeat the continuity check between the Yellow/Black (C) terminal and the Purple (A) terminal on the remote harness connector. In each test the ohmmeter MUST indicate continuity. If the meter readings are other than as specified during any of the above tests, recheck the ignition switch soldered connections to verify the switch and not the wiring is at fault. Replace the switch ONLY with a Mercury switch because an automobile type switch will damage the CD unit. FLYWHEEL COMPONENT SERVICE TYPE V IGNITION SYSTEM The CD ignition system installed on the outboard units covered in this manual will usually operate over extremely long periods of time without requiring adjustment or repair. However, if ignition system problems are encountered, and the usual corrective actions such as replacement of spark plugs and timing does not correct the problem, the CD output should be checked to determine if the unit is functioning properly. Overhaul procedures may differ slightly on various outboard models, but the following general basic instructions will apply to all high-speed flywheel CD ignition systems. Flywheel Removal 1-Remove the three wing-nuts and then enough of the cover to expose the flywheel. Disconnect the leads from the battery terminals. Remove the crankshaft nut in the center of the flywheel. A flywheel strap may be required to hold the flywheel securely while the nut is loosened. 2-Obtain the proper type flywheel puller. NEVER attempt to use a puller which pulls on the outside edge of the flywheel or the flywheel may be damaged. After the puller is installed, tighten the center screw onto the end of the crankshaft. Continue tightening the screw until the flywheel is released from the crankshaft. Remove the flywheel. NEVER hammer on or heat the end of the puller center bolt in an effort to CD FLYWHEEL COMPONENTS 5-55 The small investment involved to purchase the proper tool for removal of the flywheel will save much frustration, time, and possibly replacement of expensive parts. remove the flywheel. Such action will damage the crankshaft or the bearings. 3-STOP, and carefully observe the layout of the electrical system and associated wtrmg. Study how the CD system is assembled. Because there are so many different CD installation arrangements, it is not possible to illustrate all of them, and even if they were shown, you would not be able to identify the circuitry for the engine you are servicing. TAKE TIME to make notes of the wire routing. You may elect to follow the practice of many professional mechanics by taking a series of photographs of the engine with the flywheel removed, one from the top, and a couple from the sides showing the stator and set it aside. It is not necessary to disconnect the wiring to the stator. See the Stator Testing portion of this section. 5-Remove the locknut securing the link rod swivel into the spark advance lever. Pull the link rod out of the lever. 6-Disconnect all trigger assembly leads from the switch box. Lift the trigger assembly from the powerhead. See the Trigger Assembly Testing portion of this sec wiring and arrangement of parts. 4-Remove the four stator attaching screws using an Allen wrench. Lift the tion. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Inspect the flywheel for cracks or other damage, especially around the inside of the center hub. A damaged flywheel can be EXTREMELY dangerous. The forces exerted on the flywheel while it is spinning at high rpm are sufficient to shatter an unbalanced damaged flywheel. Inspect the magnets to see if they are held tightly around the outer circumference of the flywheel rim. Check the surface of the magnets for fractures and grooves. Grooves around the inner perimeter would indicate a component mounted on the stator plate is not aligned properly or the component is loose. Fractured or damaged magnets cannot be replaced. Both the magnets and flywheel share the same part number, therefore attempting to remove the magnets would be a pointless task. If magnets or the flywheel is defective, the entire flywheel must be replaced. Check to be sure small metal particles have not become attached to the magnets. Verify each magnet has good magnetism by using a screwdriver or other suitable tool. Thoroughly clean the inside taper of the flywheel and the taper on the crankshaft to prevent the flywheel from "walking" on the crankshaft during operation. Check the top seal around the crankshaft to be sure oil has not been leaking onto the stator plate. If there is ANY evidence the seal has been leaking, it MUST be replaced. Test the stator assembly to verify it is not loose. Attempt to lift each side of the plate. There should be little or no evidence of movement. · SPECIAL WORDS ON FLYWHEEL MAGNETS The outer ends of any magnet are called poles. One end is the north pole and the other end is the south pole. The magnetic field surrounding a magnet is concentrated around these two poles. Some flywheel magnets are fairly long and curved around the outer perimeter of the underside of the flywheel. Others are short and are mounted around the center hub, depending on the location of the coils mounted on the stator. Magnets are usually installed in pairs with the north pole of one adjacent to the south pole of its neighbor and so on. In this manner continuous magnetic field surrounds the inside of the flywheel. If a flywheel is accidently dropped, not only could the teeth be damaged, but the impact will weaken the magnetic strength of all the magnets housed in the flywheel. If one or more of the magnets should break or fracture, two new magnetic poles will be created. A long magnet with two poles will become two short magnets with four poles. The new poles will possess only half the magnetic strength of an original pole. The overall magnetic field will be altered. The new field of the shorter magnets will not extend to cover the area of the flywheel. Serious consequences apply to a CD type ignition system in the event of a flywheel magnet fracture. Trigger coils evenly spaced around the perimeter of the stator plate are energized by the concentrated magnetic field at the magnet poles. If new poles are suddenly created, the trigger will receive conflicting signals from the magnets and may even attempt to fire the cylinder twice in one revolution. All these reasons require the flywheel to be handled with CARE. ASSEMBLING FLYWHEEL PARTS 1-Place the trigger onto the engine in the upper end cap. Fasten the link rod swivel to the spark advance lever and secure it in place with the locknut. Route the trigger wiring harness along the side of the engine, and then connect the wires to the proper terminals in the switch box. Refer to the diagram or photographs made before removal. If this was not done, check the wiring diagrams in the Appendix. Wires with Yellow sleeves MUST be connected to the terminals of the switch box. 2-Place the stator in position over the FLYWHEEL COMPONENTS 5-57 trigger assembly. Apply a drop of Loctite A, or equivalent, to the threads of the stator attaching screws. Install and tighten the attaching screws to a torque value of 30 in lbs ( 3.4Nm). Connect the stator leads to the proper terminals of the rectifier and switch box. Refer to the wiring diagrams in the Appendix. Wires with the Yellow sleeves MUST be connected to the terminals of the outer switch box. Flywheel Installation 3-Place the key in the crankshaft keyway. Check the flywheel magnets to be sure they are free of any metal parts. Double check the taper in the flywheel hub and the taper on the crankshaft to verify they are clean and contain no oil, as a precaution against the flywheel "walking" on the crankshaft during operation. Slide the flywheel down over the crankshaft with the keyway in the flywheel aligned with the key on the crankshaft. Rotate the flywheel clockwise and check to be sure the flywheel does not contact any part of the magneto or the wmng. Thread the flywheel nut onto the crankshaft and tighten it to the following torque values for the powerheads indicated: 5-58 IGNITION Flywheel Nut Torque Values 50hp & 60hp (1991 and On) 120 ft lbs (1 63Nm) ?Ohp, 75hp, 80hp & 90hp 120 ft lbs (1 63Nm) 100 & 11 5hp 120 ft lbs (1 63Nm) All other 3-& 4--cyl. 85 ft lbs (11 5Nrn) 4-Install the spark plugs and tighten them to a torque value of 20.5 ft lb (27Nm). Install the electrical leads to the battery terminals. For detailed timing and synchronizing procedures, see Chapter 6. FLYWHEEL HOLDER A flywheel holder should ALWAYS be used when tightening the flywheel nut. The holder will prevent movement of the flywheel while tightening the nut to the proper torque value. NEVER attempt to wedge tools between the flywheel and the starter pinion gear. Such a practice only invites disaster. The pinion gear is manufactured from softer metal than the flywheel to ensure failure of an inexpensive part before damage is caused to the more costly flywheel. The wiring diagram is most valuable when making connections to ensure the correct color coded lead is attached to the proper terminal. 6 TIMING AND SYNCHRONIZING 6-1 INTRODUCTION AND PREPARATION Synchronization Timing and the synchronization on a multi-cylinder outboard engine is extremely important to obtain maximum efficiency. The engine cannot perform properly and produce its designed horsepower output if the fuel carburetion and ignition systems have not been precisely adjusted. FLYWHEEL •.'. " '; Typical distributor installation for the powerheads covered in this manual showing relationship of the timing belt and distributor pulley to the flywheel. In simple terms, synchronization is tim ing the carburetion to the ignition. This means, as the throttle is advanced to in crease engine rpm, the carburetor and the ignition systems are both advanced equally and at the same rate. Therefore, anytime the fuel system or the ignition system on an engine is serviced to replace a faulty part, or any adjustments are made for any reason, engine timing and synchronization MUST be carefully checked and verified. For this reason the timing and synchronizing procedures have been separated from all others and presented alone in this chapter. Before making adjustments with the timing or synchronizing, the ignition system should be thoroughly checked according to the procedures outlined in Chapter 5, and the fuel system in good working order per Chapter 4. Timing The timing on many models is set at the factory and there is no way in heaven, or on earth, to make an adjustment. However, on some of the larger horsepower units, the timing may be adjusted. All outboard engines have some type of synchronization between the carburetion and ignition systems. Many models do not have timing marks on the flywheel and a dial indicator must be used to properly time the engine. On later models the flywheel does have a timing mark and the engine may be properly timed using a timing light. This method has its disadvantages, because the engine must be run at full throttle in forward gear in a test tank, or at full throttle on the boat in a waterway. The problems of roaring across a lake or down the river af full throttle and attempting to check the timing with a light can easily be imagined. Therefore, the timing light is not too practical a method of timing and synchronizing a large horsepower engine if a test tank is not available. On some late model and larger horsepower units, the timing is checked using a timing light while cranking the engine. Using this procedure it is not necessary to mount the engine in a test tank or to move the boat into a body of water. HOWEVER, a flush device MUST be used and the engine NEVER operated above 1000 rpm. PREPARATION Timing and synchronizing the ignition and fuel systems on an outboard motor are critical adjustments. Therefore, the following equipment is essential and is called-out repeatedly in this section. This equipment must be used as described, unless otherwise instructed. Naturally, they are removed following completion of the adjustments. Dial Indicator Top dead center (TDC) of the No. 1 (top) piston must be precisely known before the timing adjustment can be made. TDC can only be determined through installation of a dial indicator into the No. 1 spark plug opening. Timing Light During many procedures in this section, the timing mark on the flywheel must be aligned with a stationary timing mark on the engine while the engine is being cranked, or is running. Only through use of a timing light connected to the No. 1 spark plug, can the timing mark on the flywheel be observed while the engine is opera tin g. Tachometer A tachometer connected to the engine must be used to accurately determine engine speed during idle and high-speed adjustments. The meter readings range from 0 to 6,000 rpm in increments of 100 rpm. Tachometers have solid state electronic circuits which eliminates the need for relays or batteries and contributes to their accuracy. Most marine outboard units have a female plug at the forward end of the shift box as a convenience for installation of a tachometer. Therefore, when purchasing a tachometer, check to be sure the adaptor plug will mate with the fitting on the shift box. If the boat is not equipped with a tachometer, connect one lead to the primary (negative (-}) terminal of any one coil. Connect the other lead of the tachometer to a good ground on the powerhead. Test Tank The engine must be operated at various times during the procedures. Therefore, a test tank, flush device, or moving the boat into a body of water, is necessary. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. NEVER, AGAIN, NEVER operate the engine at high speed with a flush device attached. The engine, operating at high speed with such a device attached, would RUNAWAY from lack of a load on the propeller, causing extensive damage. TIMING PO I NTER Modern dial indicator and an old early-type timing Typical flywheel timing marks and stationary pointfixture. Either item may be used to properly time the er used on the powerheads covered in this manual. powerhead. PREPARATION 6-3 6-2 MODEL 500 1965 -1967 AND 1968 TO SERIAL NO. 2306755 Belt Timing 1-Remove the engine cowl. Observe the straight line mark on the flywheel and the arrow on the distributor magneto pulley. When the flywheel mark is aligned with the arrow on the pulley, the No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC). Remove the cap screws, washers and plate from the pulley. Remove the magneto belt from the pulley. Slowly rotate the flywheel until the timing mark on the edge of the flywheel aligns with the center of the distributor pulley. In this position three items are in alignment --the center of the crankshaft end, the timing mark, and the center of the distributor pulley. Now, rotate the pulley until the arrow is aligned with the flywheel mark. Hold the pulley in this position and install the belt. Install the plate, washer, and cap screw to the pulley. Tighten the cap screw to 60 in. lbs (6.78Nm). Maximum Advance Adjustment 2-Remove all of the spark plugs to relieve compression. Install a dial indicator til the No. 1 piston is at TDC of the stroke. into the No. 1 (top) spark plug opening. Slowly rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE un ° At this point adjust the dial indicator to 0 . Connect one lead of an ohmmeter to the primary ground terminal of the magneto. Connect the other meter lead to a good ground on the engine. 3-Slowly rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE until the required BTDC reading is obtained, as listed in the Specifications in the Appendix. 4-Shift the engine into FORWARD gear. Slowly advance the magneto until the points just OPEN, as indicated by the ohmmeter reading. Hold the magneto at this position, and at the same time, loosen the locknut and adjust the spark advance screw until the screw just makes contact with the pilot assembly. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Remove the ohmmeter and dial indicator. Install the spark plugs. Full Throttle Stop Adjustment 5-Use a 0.015" (0.38mm) feeler gauge and adjust the carburetor throttle pickup plate to obtain 0.015" (0.38mm) clearance between the secondary pickup pin and the No. 2 lever: on the carburetor cluster. This clearance MUST be measured when the magneto is against the stop in the full advance position. 6-Set the full throttle stop adjustment screw to allow 0.015" (0.38mm) free movement of the cluster lever in a clockwise direction when the throttle is held against its full throttle stop. Push the cluster lever with your finger. 6-3 500S SERIAL NO. 2306756 AND UP MID 1968 500M SERIAL NO. 2307056 AND UP MID 1968 500E SERIAL NO. 2406035 AND UP MID 1968 TO 1975 650S SERIAL NO. 2312311 TO 2446775 MID 1968 AND 1969 650E SERIAL NO. 2446775 TO 2606853 MID 1968 AND 1969 Belt Timing 1-Remove the engine cowl. On the 500 Models: Observe the straight line mark on the flywheel and the arrow on the distributor magneto pulley. On the 650 Models: Observe the three dots on the flywheel and the arrow on the distributor pulley. When the flywheel mark is aligned with the arrow on the pulley, the No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC). Remove the cap screws, washers and plate from the pulley. Remove the magneto belt from the pulley. Slowly rotate the flywheel until the timing mark on the 500 model flywheel, or the dot on the 650 flywheel aligns with the center of the crankshaft and the center of the distributor pulley. Now, rotate the pulley until the arrow is aligned with the flywheel mark. Hold the pulley in this position and install the belt. Install the plate, washer, and cap screw to the pulley. Tighten the cap screw to a torque value of 60 in. lbs. (6.78Nm). ADJUSTMENTS 6-5 3-Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature. Shift the engine into FORWARD gear. Primary Pickup Synchronizing Timing 2-Mount the engine in a test tank, or move the boat into a body of water. NEVER use a flush device while making the primary pickup or maximum advance timing adjustments. Connect the fuel line to a fuel source. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 (top) spark plug. Connect a tachometer to Hold the ignition distributor at full retard and at the same time adjust the idle stop screw until the engine is operating at 550 to 600 rpm. 4-With the engine running at idle speed, as adjusted in the previous step, aim the timing light at the timing mark. Now, advance the ignition distributor until the tim ° ing mark aligns with the 7 to 9° BTDC the engine. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. mark. 5-Slide the throttle actuator plate forward until the primary pickup on the throttle plate just makes contact with the primary pickup arm on the carburetor cluster. Maximum Advance Timing 6-With the engine running, advance the throttle to wide open throttle (WOT). The tachometer should indicate 4800 to 5200 rpm. Aim the timing light at the timing decal. Loosen the spark advance screw locknut and adjust the screw inward or outward until the flywheel timing mark aligns with the proper degree mark on the timing decal. Refer to the Specifications in the Appendix. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Check the adjustment by backing- off the throttle to idle and then advancing to the WOT position and observing the rpm reading on the tachometer. Back-off to idle and shut the engine down. Idle Stop Adjustment 7-Start the engine. Shift the engine into FORWARD gear. With the engine operating at idle speed, adjust the idle stop screw on the stop bracket until the engine idles at 550 -600 rpm. Shut down the ADJUSTMENTS 6-7 engine. Disconnect the timing light, the 8-With the engine NOT running, and the tachometer, and the fuel line. engine from the test tank. engine cowl. Remove the Install the Spark Advance Adjustment ignition driver against the spark advance stop, but not actuating the economizer collar, adjust the secondary pickup with the screw on the throttle actuator plate. Loosen the jamnut and adjust the screw until it just makes contact with the secondary pickup arm on the carburetor cluster. Tighten the jamnut to hold the adjustment. 9-Rotate the economizer collar to the wide open throttle position, and then adjust the throttle stop screw on the stop bracket until the full throttle shutter is fully open. CRITICAL WORDS This adjustment MUST not allow the throttle shutter to act as a stop or the carburetor cluster to strike the carburetor filter bow 1. Remove the engine from the test tank. 6-4 MODEL .500 197.5 Belt Timing 1-Remove the engine cowl. Observe the straight line alignment mark on the flywheel and the arrow cast into the distributor pulley. Remove the capscrew, washer, pulley cover, and the belt. Now, rotate the SCREW TOUCHING SECONDARY PICKUP ARM flywheel CLOCKWISE until the alignment mark on the flywheel is aligned with the center of the distributor shaft. Rotate the distributor pulley until the arrow is pointing at the flywheel alignment mark. Hold the pulley in this position and install the belt. Install the pulley cover, washer, and capscrew. Tighten the capscrew to a torque value of 60 in. lbs (6.78Nm). MAXIMUM SPARK ADVANCE STOP SCREW (!) SOME GOOD WORDS: On 4-cylinder engines with Thunderbolt Ignition, the arrow on the pulley may not align exactly with the mark on the flywheel. In such a case, align the arrow slightly clockwise (when viewed from the front of the engine). Such alignment will appear to be approximately 1/2 tooth off. This is acceptable. IF the belt is installed with the pulley 1/2 tooth to the left (counterclockwise} engine synchronization will be very difficult. Actually, such an incorrect ad Primary Pickup Synchronizing Timing 2-Mount the engine in a test tank, or move the boat into a body of water. NEVER use a flush device when making the primary pickup, maximum advance timing, or the secondary pickup adjustments. Remove the engine cowl. Connect the fuel line to a fuel source. Connect a tachometer to the engine. Connect a timing light to the No. spark plug. Connect the electrical harness to the engine receptacle. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. 3-Start the engine and allow it warm to operating temperature. Shift the engine into FOR WARD gear. Aim the timing light toward the flywheel timing mark. Advance the throttle until the timing mark on the flywheel aligns with the throttle primary pickup, as listed in the Specifications in the Appendix. 4-With the throttle in the position as determined by Step 3, loosen the two actuator plate screws. Rotate the actuator plate until the primary cam just makes contact with the primary pickup lever on the carburetor cluster. Tighten the two screws securely to hold the adjustment. justment will result in rough engine operation. Maximum Advance Timing 5-With the engine operating in FORWARD gear, advance the throttle to the wide open throttle (WOT) position and observe the rpm reading of the tachometer. Use this rpm figure to select the correct maximum timing in the Specifications in the Appendix. With the engine operating at WOT in forward gear, and the timing light aimed at the flywheel rim, loosen the locknut and adjust the maximum spark stop screw to align the timing mark on the flywheel rim with the corresponding degree mark on the timing decal. Tighten the locknut securely to hold the adjustment. Back-off the throttle to idle speed. Shut down the engine. Disconnect the timing light, the tachometer, and the fuel line. Secondary Pickup Adjustment 6-With the engine NOT running, hold the distributor adaptor against the maximum spark stop screw, but not enough to actuate the economizer collar spring. Loosen the locknut and adjust the throttle secon- ADJUS TMENTS 6-9 dary pickup screw until the screw just makes contact with the secondary pickup arm on the carburetor cluster. Tighten the locknut to hold this adjustment. 7-Rotate the throttle to the WOT position and adjust the throttle stop screw until the full throttle shutter is fully open. CRITICAL WORDS This adjustment MUST not allow the throttle shutter to act as a stop or the carburetor cluster to strike the carburetor filter cover. Remove the engine from the test tank. 6-5 MODEL 500 1976 TO SERIAL NO. 4576236 Primary Pickup Synchronizing Timing 1-Mount the engine in a test tank, or move the boat into a body of water. NEVER use a flush device when making the primary pickup, maximum advance timing, or the secondary pickup adjustments. Remove the engine cowl. Connect the fuel line to a fuel source. Connect a tachometer to the engine. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 (top) spark plug. Connect the electrical harness to the engine receptacle. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. 2-Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature. Shift the engine into FORWARD gear. With the engine operating in FORWARD gear, slowly move the throttle arm toward retard until the engine is running at 550 0 600 rpm, 5 ATDC. Loosen the locknut and adjust the throttle stop screw until it just makes contact against the arm. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. GOOD WORDS When using a timing light with an outboard engine on a sunny day, it may be very difficult to observe the flashing of the light on the timing marks. Two suggestions may be helpful. First, use just a dab of white Liquid Paper or suitable equivalent on the flywheel timing mark. Secondly, have an assistant hold a suitable piece of material over the engine to provide shade. 3-Aim the timing light at the timing decal. Advance the throttle arm until the 0 0 7 9 BTDC marks on the flywheel decal - align with the timing pointer. Loosen the two throttle actuator plate retainer screws and rotate the actuator plate until the primary cam just makes contact with the primary pickup arm on the carburetor cluster. Tighten the two retaining screws. Maximum Advance Timing 4-The electronic timing characteristics of this ignition system requires the maxi- e mum spark advance to be set at 30 BTDC at 5000 rpm. To make this adjustment: Advance the throttle until the engine is operating at 5000 rpm. Now, advance the throt ° tle arm to align the 30 BTDC mark on the flywheel decal with the timing pointer. Loosen the maximum spark stop screw, and adjust the screw until it just makes contact with the spark arm. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Back-off the throttle to idle, and then shut down the engine. Disconnect the timing light, the tachometer, and the fuel line. Secondary Pickup Adjustment 5-With the engine NOT running, move the throttle lever until the maximum spark advance screw just makes contact with the stop. At this point, adjust the secondary pickup screw until the screw just makes contact with the secondary lever. 6-With the engine NOT running, move the throttle to WOT. Adjust the full throttle stop screw until the carburetor shutter is in the full open position. Check to be sure the carburetor shutters do not act as a throttle stop. With a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the secondary pickup screw and the carburetor cluster secondary lever. This clearance should be 0.010" 0.0 15" (0.25 -0.38mm). Remove the engine from the test tank. Install the engine cowl. ADJUSTMENTS 6-1 1 6-6 MODEL 500 SERIAL NO. 4576237 AND UP 1977 -1979 MODEL 50 SINCE 1979 MODEL 45 SINCE 1986 1-Mount the engine in a test tank, or move the boat into a body of water. NEVER use a flush device when making the primary pickup, maximum advance timing, or the secondary pickup adjustments. Remove the 6-12 TIMING AND SYNCJ-RONIZING engine cowl. Connect the fuel line to a fuel source. Connect a tachometer to the engine. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 (top) spark plug. Connect the electrical harness to the engine receptacle. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature. Shift the engine into FOR WARD gear. Primary Pickup Synchronizing Timing 2-With the engine running in FORWARD gear, aim the timing light at the timing decal, and advance engine speed until the timing pointer is aligned with the 7° 9° BTDC mark on the timing decal. From this position loosen the two throttle actuator plate retaining screws. 3-Rotate the actuator plate until the primary cam just makes contact with the primary pickup arm on the carburetor cluster. Tighten the retaining screws to hold the adjustment. Back-off the throttle to idle speed. Maximum Advance Timing 4-With the engine running in FORWARD gear, and the timing light aimed at the timing decal, advance engine speed until the timing pointer aligns with the 32° BTDC mark on the timing decal. Loosen the locknut and adjust the maximum spark stop screw until the end of the screw just makes contact with the stop. AN EXPLANATION: This adjustment will result in a spark advance of 30° at maximum rpm, due to the spark advance characteristics of this ignition system. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Back-off engine speed to idle and shut down the engine. Remove the timing light. Secondary Pickup Adjustment 5-With the engine NOT running, move the throttle lever until the maximum spark advance screw is against the stop, and then loosen the locknut and adjust the secondary pickup screw until the end of the screw just makes contact with the secondary lever. 6-With the engine NOT running, move the throttle lever to the wide open throttle (WOT) position. Loosen the locknut and adjust the full throttle stop screw to permit the carburetor shutters to fully open at WOT. Check to be sure the carburetor shutters do not act as a throttle stop. Use a feeler gauge and check the clearance between the secondary pickup screw and the ADJUSTMENlS 6-13 carburetor cluster secondary lever. This clearance should be 0.010" -0.015" (0.25 0.38mm). Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Disconnect the fuel line, tachometer, and timing light. Remove the engine from the test tank. 6-7 MODEL 650 1965 -1966 MODEL 650E 1968 TO SERIAL NO. 2446774 MODEL 650S 1968 TO SERIAL NO. 2312310 Belt Timing 1-Remove the engine cowl. Observe the straight line mark on the flywheel and When the flywheel mark is aligned with the arrow on the pulley, the No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC). Remove the cap screw, washer and pia te from the pulley. Remove the magneto belt from the pulley. Slowly rotate the flywheel until the timing mark on the flywheel aligns with the center of the crankshaft and the center of the distributor pulley. In this position, three items are aligned --center of crankshaft, timing mark, and center of the distributor pulley. Now, rotate the pulley until the arrow is aligned with the flywheel mark. Hold the pulley in this position and install the belt. Install the plate, washer, and cap screw to the pulley. Tighten the cap screw to a the arrow on the distributor magneto pulley. torque value of 60 in. lbs (6.78Nm). 6-14 TIMII\JG AND SYNCHRONIZII\JG Maximum Advance Adjustment 2-Remove all of the spark plugs to relieve com pression in the cylinders. Install a dial indicator into the No. 1 (top) spark plug opening. Slowly rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE until the No. 1 piston is at TDC of the stroke. At this point adjust the ° dial indicator to 0 . Connect one lead of an ohmmeter to the primary ground terminal of the magneto. Connect the other meter lead to a good ground on the engine. Rotate the flywheel COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the required BTDC reading is obtained, on the dial indica tor, as listed in the Specifications in the Appendix. 3-Shift the engine into FORWARD gear. Slowly advance the magneto until the points just OPEN, as indicated by the ohmmeter reading. Hold the magneto at this position, and at the same time, loosen the locknut and adjust the spark advance screw until the screw just makes contact with the pilot assembly. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Pickup Plate Sychronizing 4-With the dial indicator still in the No. 1 (top) cylinder, rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE until the dial indicator reads 0.015 (0.38mm) BTDC. Retard the magneto against the idle stop screw. Now, slowly rotate the magneto COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the points just open as indica ted by the ohmmeter reading. Loosen the throttle pickup plate retaining screws. Slide the throttle pickup plate until the lob (with the nylon sleeve) just makes contact with the carburetor cluster. Tighten the retaining screws to hold the adjustment. Disconnect the ohmmeter and remove the dial indicator. Install the spark plugs. Tighten the spark plugs to the torque value given in the Appendix. Install the engine cowl. 6-8 MODEL 650 1970 -1971 MODEL 800 1969 -1972 MODEL 850 1973 Belt Timing 1-Remove the engine cowl. Observe the straight line mark on the flywheel and the arrow on the distributor magneto pulley. When the flywheel mark is aligned with the arrow on the pulley, the No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC). Remove the cap screw, washer and plate from the pulley. Remove the magneto belt from the pulley. Slowly rotate the flywheel until the timing mark on the flywheel aligns with the center of the crankshaft and the center of the distributor pulley. In this position, three items are aligned --center of crankshaft, timing mark, and center of distributor pulley. Now, rotate the pulley until the arrow is aligned with the flywheel mark. Hold the pulley in this position and install the belt. Install the plate, washer, and cap screw to the pulley. Tighten the cap screw to a torque value of 60 in. lbs (6.78Nm). Maximum Advance Adjustment 2-Connect a flush device to the lower unit. NEVER operate the engine over 1000 rpm with a flush device attached, because the engine may "RUNAWAY'' due to the noload condition on the propeller. A "runaway" engine could be severely damaged. ADJUSTMENTS 6-15 CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. 3-Start the engine. DISCONNECT the fuel line from the engine. Allow the engine to run until it shuts down from lack of fuel. Remove the throttle cable from the engine. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 (top)spark plug. 6-16 TIMING AND SYNCt-RONIZING 4-If the timing adjustment is to be accomplished without an assistant, a remote hold the adjustment. Check the t1mmg adjustment by repeating the procedure. starter switch connected to the engine will be required to crank the engine. Aim the timing light at the degree marking on the top cowl support frame. Crank the engine, and at the same time advance the vertical lever until the timing mark (the three dots) on the flywheel is aligned with the timing mark on the timing decal. 5-Loosen the spark advance stop screw locknut, and adjust the screw inward or outward until the correct timing is obtained. See the Specifications in the Appendix for Primary Pickup Synchronizing 6-Aim the timing light at the timing decal, crank the engine, and advance the throttle until the timing mark (three dots) on the flywheel aligns with the line on the timing decal. See the Specifications in the Appendix for the correct setting. At this point the carburetor primary pickup arm should just make contact with the carburetor cluster with 0.000 -0.005" (0.00 0.13mm) clearance. If an adjustment is the correct setting. Tighten the locknut to required, loosen the throttle plate retaining screws and shift the plate to obtain the proper clearance. Tighten the retaining screws securely to hold the adjustment. Disconnect the timing light and the flush device. Connect the fuel line. Secondary Pickup Adjustment 7-With the engine NOT running, rotate the distributor until it makes contact with the spark advance stop. Loosen the adjustment screw jamnut on the throttle actuator plate. Adjust the secondary pickup with the adjustment screw until the actuator plate just makes contact with the secondary pickup arm on the carburetor cluster. Tighten the jamnut to hold the adjusment. Connect the throttle cable. Install the engine cowl. 6-9 MODEL 650 1972 -1975 Belt Timing 1-Remove the engine cowl. Observe the straight line mark on the flywheel and the plastic timing indica tor on the crankcase. When the flywheel mark is aligned with the plastic indicator, the No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC). Remove the cap screw, washer and plate from the pulley. Remove the belt. Remove the spark plugs to relieve compression in the cylinders. Rotate the flywheel until the timing mark on the flywheel is aligned with the plastic timing indicator on the crankcase. Align the cast tab on the pulley with the cast mark on the distributor adaptor. Install the timing belt and cover plate. Install the washer and cap screw to secure the plate. Tighten the capscrew to a torque value of 60 in. lbs (6.78Nm). Install the spark plugs. ADJUSTMENTS 6-17 Tighten the spark plugs to the torque value given in the Appendix. Primary Pickup Synchronizing Timing 2-Connect a flush device to the lower unit. NEVER operate the engine over 1000 rpm with a flush device attached, because the engine may "RUNAWAY'' due to the noload condition on the propeller. A "runaway" engine could be severely damaged. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. 3-Start the engine. DISCONNECT the fuel line to the engine. Allow the engine to run until it shuts down from lack of fuel. After the engine shuts down, disconnect the flush device from the lower unit. Remove the throttle cable from the Connect a timing light to the No. cylinder. 1 Crank the engine with the cranking motor, and at the same time, move the throttle arm until the throttle primary pickup specification on the timing decal is aligned with the timing pointer. See Specifications in the Appendix. 6-18 TIMING AND SYNCI-RONIZING Typical location of the primary pickup adjustment. The throttle actuator cam must barely make contact with the throttle lever, as explained in the text. Loosen the locknut on the adjustment screw between the spark advance and the throttle advance arm. Move the adjustment screw inward or outward untill the throttle actuator cam just makes contact with the throttle lever. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Maximum Advance Adjustment 5-Loosen the locknut on the maximum advance adjustment screw. Aim the timing light at the plastic timing indicator. Crank the engine at approximately 400 rpm with the cranking motor, and at the same time, adjust the maximum spark advance screw inward or outward to align the plastic timing indicator with the mark on the timing ° decal at 23 . Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Disconnect the timing light. WOT Carburetor Adjustment 6-Loosen the locknut on the throttle arm adjustment screw. Advance the throttle arm to wide open throttle (WOT) and adjust the screw inward or outward until the carburetor shutter is in the full open position. Check to be sure the throttle shutters DO NOT act as a stop. Use a feeler gauge and check the clearance between the throttle arm and the end of the throttle stop screw. This clearance should be 0.0 10" 0.015" 0.25 -0.38mm) to prevent the throttle linkage from binding. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Remove the timing light. Connect the throttle cable. Connect the fuel line. ADJUSTMENTS 6-19 6-10 MODEL 650 1976 Timing Point Adjustment A SAFETY WORD: To prevent the engine from starting and possibly causing personal injury during the timing procedure, ALWAYS remove all of the spark plugs before starting the adjustment procedures. 1-Remove all spark plugs. Install a dial indicator in the No. 1 (top) spark plug opening. Rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE until the No. 1 piston is at top dead center (TDCJ. At this point, set the dial indicator at 0 • Rotate the flywheel COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the dial indicator needle is approximately 1/ 4-turn beyond 0.464" (11.80mm), then rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE until the dial indicator reads exactly 0.464" (11.80mm). If necessary, loosen the attaching screw and shift the timing pointer, until the 0.464" mark on the timing decal is aligned with the groove in the timing pointer. Tighten the pointer attaching screw to hold the adjustment. Remove the dial indicator. Install the spark plugs. Primary Pickup Synchronizing 2-Connect a flush device to the lower unit. NEVER operate the engine over 1000 rpm with a flush device attached, because the engine may "RUNAWAY'' due to the noload condition on the propeller. A "runaway" engine could be severely damaged. Plug the electrical harness into the engine receptacle. 3-Start the engine. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. DISCONNECT the fuel line to the engine. Allow the engine to run until it shuts down from lack of fuel. After the engine shuts down, disconnect the flush device. Remove the throttle cable from the engine. 4-Crank the engine with the cranking motor, and at the same time, move the throttle arm until the throttle primary pickup specification on the timing decal is aligned with the timing pointer. See the Specifications in the Appendix. Loosen the locknut on the screw between the throttle and spark arms. Adjust the screw until the throttle actuator cam just makes contact with the carburetor throttle cluster pin. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. fUll . HAX I MUMSTOP ' ADVANCE Maximum Advance Adjustment 5-Again, crank the engine with the cranking motor, and at the same time, move ° the throttle arm to align the 28 BTDC mark on the timing decal with the timing pointer. Loosen the locknut on the maximum spark stop screw, and then adjust the screw until it just makes contact with the spark arm. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Check the maximum spark advance a second time. ONE MORE WORD: Due to the electronic characteristic of this ignition system0 setting the maximum spark advance at 28 BTDC at cranking rpm, will result in a ° maximum spark advance of 23 at 5300 rpm. WOT Carburetor Adjustment 6-Move the throttle arm to the wide open throttle (WOT) position and adjust the throttle stop screw until the carburetor shutter is at the full open position. Check to be sure the shutter does not act as a stop. 7-Use a feeler gauge and check the clearance between the throttle actuator cam and the carburetor cluster pin, with the throttle lever against the throttle stop screw. This clearance should be 0.01 0" - 0.0 15" (0.25 -0.38mm). Loosen the locknut on the throttle stop screw and make an adjustment, if necessary. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Connect the fuel line. Install the engine cowl. 6-11 MODEL 700 1977 -1979 MODEL 70 1979 -1983 MODEL 60 1984 -1990 MODEL 50 1986-1990 Timing Point Adjustment A SAFETY WORD: To prevent the engine from starting and possibly causing personal injury during the timing procedure, ALWAYS remove all spark plugs before starting the adjustment procedures. 1-Remove all spark plugs. Install a dial indicator in the No. 1 (top) spark plug opening. Rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE until the No. 1 piston is at top dead center (TDCJ. At this point, set the dial indicator at 0 • Rotate the flywheel COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the dial indicator needle is approximately 1/4-turn beyond 0.464 (1 1.80mm), then rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE until the dial indicator reads exactly 0.464" (l l.80mm). If necessary, loosen the attaching screw and shift the timing pointer, until the .464" mark on the timing decal is aligned with the groove in the timing pointer, as shown. Tighten the pointer attaching screw to hold the adjustment. Remove the dial indicator. Install the spark plugs. Primary Pickup Synchronizing 2-Connect a flush device to the lower unit. NEVER operate the engine over 1000 ADJUSTMENTS 6-2 1 rpm with a flush device attached, because the engine may "RUNAWAY" due to the noload condition on the propeller. A "runaway" engine could be severely damaged. Plug the electrical harness into the engine receptacle. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. Start the engine. DISCONNECT the fuel line to the engine. Allow the engine to run until it shuts down from lack of fuel. After the engine shuts down, disconnect the flush device from the lower unit. Remove the throttle cable from the engine. 3-Crank the engine with the cranking motor, and at the same time, move the throttle arm until the throttle primary pickup specification on the timing decal is aligned with the timing pointer. See the Specifications in the Appendix for the correct setting. Loosen the locknut on the full throttle stop adjustment screw. Adjust the screw until the throttle actuator cam just makes contact with the carburetor throttle cluster pin. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. 6-22 TIMING AND SYNCI--RONIZING CARBURETOR CLUSTER PIN Maximum Advance Adjustment Again, crank the engine with the cranking motor, and at the same time, move the ° throttle lever to align the 28 BTDC mark on the timing decal with the timing pointer. Loosen the locknut on the maximum spark stop screw, and then adjust the screw until it just makes contact with the spark arm. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Check the maximum spark advance a second time. ONE MORE WORD: Due to the electronic characteristic of this ignition systemd setting the maximum spark advance at 28 BTDC at cranking rpm, will result in a ° maximum spark advance of 23 at 5300 rpm. WOT Carburetor Adjustment With the engine NOT running, loosen the locknut on the throttle stop screw. Move the throttle lever to WOT and adjust the throttle stop screw until the carburetor shutter is at the full open position. 4-Check to be sure the carburetor shutter does not act as a throttle stop. Use a feeler gauge and check the clearance between the throttle actuator cam and the carburetor cluster pin at WOT. Tighten the locknut on the throttle stop screw to hold the adjustment. Secondary Pickup Adjustment 5-With the engine NOT running, loosen the locknut on the secondary pickup adjustment screw. Now, move the spark arm to maximum spark. 6-Adjust the secondary pickup adjustment screw until the carburetor cluster pin just makes contact with the secondary pickup point on the throttle cluster cam. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Move the throttle lever back to the idle position. Remove the engine from the test tank. Connect the fuel line. Install the engine cowl. Maximum Advance Timing 7-Connect the fuel line to a fuel supply. Check to be sure the timing light and tachometer are properly installed. NEVER use a flush device when making this test. The TIMING DECAL AD .JUS TMENTS 6-23 engine MUST be mounted in a test tank, or the boat moved into a body of water. Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating tern perature. Shift the engine into FORWARD gear. Advance the throttle until the engine is operating at 5000 -5500 rpm. At this engine speed, aim the timing light at the timing decal. 8-Loosen the locknut on the adjustment screw; adjust the maximum spark advance screw until the timing pointer is aligned ° with the 23 mark on the timing decal. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Back-off the throttle to idle speed and shut the engine down. Disconnect the timing light, tachometer, and the fuel line. 6-12 MODEL 850 1974 -1975 SERIAL NO. 4366801 Belt Timing 1-Remove the engine cowl. Observe the straight line mark on the flywheel and the arrow on the distributor magneto pulley. When the flywheel mark is aligned with the arrow on the pulley, the No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC). Remove the cap screw, washer and cover plate from the pulley. Remove the magneto belt from the pulley. Slowly rotate the flywheel until the timing mark on the flywheel aligns with the center of the crankshaft and the center of the distributor pulley. Now, rotate the pulley until the arrow is aligned with the flywheel mark. Hold the pulley in this position and install the belt. Install the plate, washer, and cap screw to the pulley. Tighten the cap screw to a torque value of 60 in. lbs (6.78Nm). SOME GOOD WORDS: On 4-cylinder engines with Thunderbolt Ignition, the arrow on the pulley may not align exactly with the mark on the flywheel. In such a case, align the arrow slightly clockwise (when viewed from the front of the engine). Such alignment will appear to be approximately 1/2 tooth off. This is acceptable. IF the belt is installed with the pulley 1/2 tooth to the left (counterclockwise) engine synchronization will be very difficult. Actually, such an incorrect adjustment will result in rough engine operation. 6-24 TIMING AND SYNCt-RONIZING 2-Mount the engine in a test tank or move the boat into a body of water. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 (top) cylinder. Connect a tachometer to the engine. Plug the electrical harness into the engine electrical receptacle. Connect the fuel line to a fuel source. Primary Pickup Synchronizing Timing Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. Shift the engine in to FORWARD gear. Aim the timing light at the timin.. decal. Move the throttle lever until the 3 to 5° BTDC on the timing decal is aligned with the timing pointer. 3-With the throttle lever in the position obtained in the previous step, loosen the two actuator plate retainer bolts, and then rotate the actuator plate until the primary cam just makes contact with the primary pickup lever on the carburetor cluster. Tighten the two actuator plate retaining bolts to hold the adjustment. Maximum Advance Timing 4-With the engine running, aim the timing light at the timing decal, and advance the throttle lever until the 27° BTDC mark on the timing decal is aligned with the timing pointer. Loosen the locknut on the maximum spark stop screw. Adjust the maximum spark stop screw until the screw just makes contact with the distributor adaptor. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Check the adjustment. Backoff the throttle to idle, and then shut down the engine. Disconnect the timing light, the tachometer, the electrical harness, and the fuel line. Secondary Throttle Pickup Adjustment 5-With the engine NOT running, advance the throttle arm to the maximum spark advance screw, but without it actuating the economizer collar spring. Loosen the locknut on the secondary throttle pickup screw. Adjust the secondary throttle pickup screw until the secondary pickup just makes contact with secondary lever on the carburetor cluster. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. WOT Throttle Lever Adjustment 6-With the engine NOT running, advance the throttle lever to the wide open ADJUSTMENTS 6-25 throttle (WOT) position. Loosen the locknut on the throttle stop screw. Adjust the stop screw until the carburetor shutter is at the full open position. Check to be sure the shutters do not act as a stop. Use a feeler gauge and check the clearance between the throttle secondary pickup and the secondary lever on the carburetor cluster. This clearance should be approximately 0.031" (0.79mm). Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Remove the engine from the test tank, connect the fuel line, and install the engine cowl. 6-13 MODEL 800 1978 -1979 MODEL 850 1976 -1977 SERIAL NO. 4366802 AND ABOVE MODEL 80 1979 -1983 MODEL 75 1984-86 Timing Point Adjustment A SAFETY WORD: To prevent the engine from starting and possibly causing personal injury during the timing procedure, ALWAYS remove all of the spark plugs before starting the adjustments. 1-Remove all the spark plugs. Install a dial indica tor in the No. 1 (top) spark plug opening. Rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE until the No. 1 piston is at top dead center (TDCJ. At this point, set the dial indicator at 0 • Rotate the flywheel COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the dial indicator needle is approximately 1/4-turn beyond 0.464" (11.80mm), then rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE until the dial indicator reads exactly 0.464" (11.80mm). If necessary, timing pointer, until the 0.464" mark on the timing decal is aligned with the groove in the timing pointer, as shown. Tighten the pointer attaching screw to hold the adjustment. Remove the dial indicator. Install the spark plugs and tighten them to a torque value given in the Appendix. SECONDARY THROTTLE PI CKUP SCREW Primary Pickup Synchronizing Timing 2-Mount the engine in a test tank, or move the boat into a body of water. NEVER use a flush device while making the primary pickup or maximum advance adjustments. loosen the attaching screw and shift the Plug the electrical harness into the engine 6-26 TIMING AND SYNCt-RONIZING receptacle. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature. With the engine in FORWARD gear and running at idle speed, move the throttle lever until the throttle primary pickup cam just makes contact with the primary pickup on the carburetor cluster. Loosen the locknut on the primary pickup screw. Without moving the throttle lever, adjust the primary pickup screw until the timing pointer is aligned with the specified throttle pickup on the timing decal, as determined from the Specifications in the Appendix. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Maximum Advance Adjustment 3-With the engine in FORWARD gear and running at idle speed, aim the timing light at the timing decal and at the same time, advance engine speed until the timing pointer is aligned with the specified maximum spark advance on the timing decal, as determined from the Specifications in the Appendix. Loosen the locknut on the maximum spark advance stop screw. Adjust the maximum spark advance stop screw until the end of the screw just makes contact with the screw stop. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Back-off the throttle to idle speed, and then gine. Remove the timing light. - shut down the en Maximum Throttle Stop Adjustment With the engine NOT running, advance the throttle lever to the wide open throttle (WOT) position. Loosen the locknut on the full throttle stop screw. Adjust the full throttle stop screw until the carburetor shutter is in the full open position. Tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment. Check to be sure the carburetor shutters do not act as a throttle stop. Use a feeler gauge and check the clearance between the throttle cam and the pin on the carburetor cluster, when the throttle is at the WOT position. This clearance should be 0.01 0" -0.0 15" (0.25 -0.38mm). Remove the engine from the test tank. FULLSTOP SCREW tighten tie bar. ADJUSTMENTS 6-27 6-14 70HP, 75HP, 80HP, AND 90HP 1987 AND ON 50HP AND 60HP 1991 AND ON Timing Pointer Adjustment A SAFETY WORD: To prevent the engine fr?.. startin? and possibly causing personal mJury durmg the timing procedure, ALWAYS remove all spark plugs before starting the adjustment procedures. 1-Remove all spark plugs. Install a dial ..ndicator in the No. 1 (top) spark plug openmg. Rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE until the N?. 1 ..iston is at top dead center (TDCJ. At this pomt, set the dial indicator at 0 . Rotate the flywheel COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the dial indicator needle reads .550" BTDC, then rotate the flywheelCLOCKWISE until the dial indicator reads exactly .459" B TDC (50hp and 60hp) or .491" BTDC (70hp thru 90hp). If necessary, loosen the attaching screws and shift the timing pointer, until the .459" o.. .491" mark on the timing decal is aligned with the groove in the timing pointer, as shown. Tighten the pointer attaching screws to a torque value of 20 in lbs (2.3Nm) to hold the adjustment. Remove the dial indicator. Install the spark plugs. 2-Remove the attaching screws securing the sound box cover to the powerhead, and then remove the cover. Loosen, but do NOT remove the Phillips head screw under the earn follower. Again, loosen but do NOT remove the four Phillips head screws on the carburetor tie bar. Hold all three throttle shutter valves closed and the four screws on the carburetor cam. Tighten the locknut on the idle stop screw to hold the adjustment. 70hp thru 90hp Mod..l.. 3-Loosen the locknut on the idle stop screw. Hold the throttle lever aft until the idle stop screw rests against the stop on the outer exhaust cover. 4-Position the throttle roller against the throttle cam as far as possible. Adjust the idle stop screw until the throttle roller rests against the throttle cam at the raised mark on the cam. Back off the idle stop screw until a clearance of 0.005 to 0.020" (0.13-0.5lmm) for 50hp and 60hp models (illustration llii-A) -or 0.025 to 0.050" (0.64--1.27mm) for 70hp 5-Move the throttle lever aft until the maximum spark advance screw contacts the stop on the outer exhaust cover. 50hp and 60hp Models 6-Move the throttle arm aft until the full throttle stop screw rests against the stop cast into the lower crankcase. All Models 7-Loosen the locknut on the full throttle stop screw. Adjust the full throttle stop screw and at the same time observe all thru 90hp models (illustration ill-B) -exists between the throttle roller and the throttle three throttle shutter valves. The shutter valves MUST be in the fully open position. Check to be sure the throttle valves do not act as a throttle stop and approxim ately 0.015" (0.4-0mm) free play exists in the throttle linkage at WOT. Tighten the locknut on the full throttle stop screw to hold the adjustment. SPECIAL WORDS The following adjustment performed in Step 8 and Step 8 are made while the powerhead is being cranked. Therefore, stay CLEAR of the propeller because it will be rotating. A fully charged battery must be used while making this adjustment or an inaccurate reading may be obtained. Idle Timing Adjustment 8-Connect a timing light to the No. 1 (top) spark plug lead. With the lower unit in NEUTRAL, hold the throttle lever in the forward (idle) position, and at the same time, loosen the locknut on the idle stop screw. WARNING: KEEP ANGERS CLEAR OF THE ROTATING FLYWHEEL. Crank the powerhead with the cranking motor and at the same time, aim the timing light at the timing decal. Adjust the idle timing screw until the timing pointer aligns with the 2 ° BTDC mark (70hp thru 90hp), or ° the 2 ATOC mark (50hp and 60hp) on the decal. Tighten the locknut to hold this posi tlon. Maximum Timing Adjustment 9-Loosen the locknut on the maximum spark advance screw. Hold the throttle lever in the aft position until the maximum spark advance screw contacts the stop on the outer exhaust cover. Crank the powerhead with the cranking motor and at the same time adjust the maximum spark ad- ADJUSTMENTS 6-29 vance screw until the timing pointer aligns as follows: 50hp, 60hp, 70hp, 75hp, and 80hp with serial number B239242 and below 0 --24 BTDC. 70hp, 7 5hp, and 80hp with serial number B239243 and above, and all 90hp --28 ° BTDC. Due to the unique characteristics of this particular ignition system, this adjustment at powerhead cranking speed will result in a 0 spark advance decrease of 2 BTDC at 5000 rpm. ° 24 BTDC at cranking speed is equi o valent to 22 BTDC at 5000rpm. ° 28 BTDC at cranking speed is equi o valent to 26 BTDC at 5000rpm. Tighten the locknut on the maximum spark advance screw to hold the adjustment. Remove the timing light. 6-15 100HP -1988 AND ON 115HP -1989 AND ON Timing Pointer Adjustment A SAFETY WORD: To prevent the engine from starting and possibly causing personal injury during the timing procedure, ALWAYS remove all spark plugs before starting the adjustment procedures. 1-Remove all spark plugs. Install a dial indica tor in the No. 1 (top) spark plug opening. Rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE until the No. 1 piston is at top dead center (TDCJ. At this point, set the dial indica tor at 0 • Rotate the flywheel COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the dial indicator needle reads .600" BTDC, then rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE until the dial indicator reads exactly .554" BTDC. If necessary, loosen the attaching screws and shift the timing pointer, until the .554" mark on the timing decal is aligned with the groove in the timing pointer, as shown. Tighten the pointer attaching screws to a torque value of 20 in lbs (2.3Nm) to hold the adjustment. Remove the dial indica tor. Install the spark plugs. 2-Remove the eight attaching screws securing the sound box cover to the power head, and then remove the cover. Loosen, but do NOT remove the Phillips head screw under the cam follower. Again, loosen but do NOT remove the six Phillips head screws on the carburetor tie bar. Hold all three throttle shutter valves closed and tighten the six screws on the carburetor tie bar. 3-Loosen the locknut on the idle stop screw. Hold the throttle lever aft until the idle stop screw rests against the stop on the outer exhaust cover. IJ-Position the throttle roller against the throttle cam as far as possible. Adjust the idle stop screw until the throttle roller rests against the throttle cam at the raised mark on the cam. Back off the idle stop screw until a clearance of 0.005-0.020" (0.1 3-0.50mm) exists between the throttle roller and the / ADJUSTMENTS 6-31 throttle cam. Tighten the locknut on the idle stop screw to hold the adjustment. .5-Move the throttle lever aft until the maximum spark advance screw contacts the stop on the outer exhaust cover. 6-Loosen the locknut on the full throttle stop screw. Adjust the full throttle stop screw and at the same time observe all four throttle shutter valves. The shutter valves MUST be in the fully open position. Check to be sure the throttle valves do not act as a throttle stop and approximately 0.01.5" (0.40mm) free play exists in the throttle linkage at WOT. Tighten the locknut on the full throttle stop screw to hold the adjustment. Idle Timing Adjustment The following adjustment performed in Step 7 and Step 8 are made while the powerhead is being cranked. Therefore, stayCLEAR of the propeller because it will be rotating. SPECIAL WORDS A fully charged battery must be used while making this adjustment or an inaccurate reading may be obtained. 7-Connect a timing light to the No. 1 (top) spark plug lead. With the lower unit in NEUTRAL, hold the throttle lever in the forward position, and at the same time, loosen the locknut on the idle stop screw. WARNING: KEEP FINGERS CLEAR OF THE ROTATING FLYWHEEL. Crank the powerhead with the cranking motor and at the same time, aim the timing light at the timing decal. Adjust the idle timing screw until the timing pointer aligns with the 3° BTDC mark on the decal. Tighten the locknut to hold this position. Maximum Timing Adjustment 8-Loosen the locknut on the maximum spark advance screw. Hold the throttle 6-32 TIMING AND SYNCHRONIZING with the 27° BTDC mark on the timing decal. lever in the aft position until the maximum spark advance screw contacts the stop on the outer exhaust cover. Crank the powerhead with the cranking motor and at the same time adjust the maximum spark advance screw until the timing pointer aligns Due to the unique characteristics of this particular ignition system, this adjustment at powerhead crankin§ speed will result in a spark advance of 23 BTDC at 3000-5000 rpm. Tighten the locknut on the maximum spark advance screw to hold the adjustment. Remove the timing light. Accelerator Pump Adjustment 9-Move the throttle lever aft to the full WOT position. This action will cause the throttle cam to fully depress the plunger on top of the accelerator pump. With the plunger depressed, measure the distance between the contact point of the cam and the plunger to the upper surface of the accelerator pump. The manufacturer calls for this measurement to be 0.030" (0.76mm). A tolerance is not given. If an adjustment is necessary, loosen the two accelerator pump mounting bolts and reposition the pump body until the required measurement is obtained. Tighten the two bolts securely to hold the new adjustment. Members of the 7-man Kempf trans-Africa expedition move steadily upstream on the Benue river in Nigeria during their epic crossing of the African continent in 1981. Many times during the 12-month journey, their Mercury outboards and inflatable craft were put to the supreme test under the most adverse conditions imaginable. One inflatable, including the engine and valuable gear, was lost when the boat was overturned, damnged, and sank during an encounter with a herd of hippos. 7 ELECTRICAL 7-1 INTRODUCTION The battery, gauges, horns, charging system, and the cranking system are all considered subsystems of the electrical system. Each of these units or subsystems will be covered in detail in this chapter beginning with the battery. 7-2 BATTERIES The battery is one of the most important parts of the electrical system. In addition to providing electrical power to start the engine, it also provides power for operation of the running lights, radio, electrical accessories, and possibly the pump for a bait tank. Because of its job and the consequences, (failure to perform in an emergency) the best advice is to purchase a well-known brand, with an extended warranty period, from a reputable dealer. The usual warranty covers a prorated replacement policy, which means you would be entitled to a consideration for the time left on the warranty period if the battery should prove defective before its time. Do not consider a battery of less than 70-ampere hour or 100-minute reserve capacity. If in doubt as to how large your boat requires, make a liberal estimate and then purchase the one with the next higher ampere rating. MARINE BATTERIES Because marine batteries are required to perform under much more rigorous conditions than automotive batteries, they are constructed much differently than those used in automobiles or trucks. Therefore, a marine battery should always be the No. 1 unit for the boat and other types of batteries used only in an emergency. Marine batteries have a much heavier exterior case to withstand the violent pounding and shocks imposed on it as the boat moves through rough water and in extremely tight turns. The plates in marine batteries are thicker than in automotive batteries and each plate is securely anchored within the battery case to ensure extended life. The caps of marine batteries are "spill proof" to prevent acid from spilling into the bilges when the boat heels to one side in a tight turn, or is moving through rough water. Because of these features, the marine battery will recover from a low charge condition and give satisfactory service over A fully charged battery, filled to the proper level with electrolyte, is the heart of the ignition and electrical systems. Engine cranking and efficient performance of electrical items depend on a full-rated battery. a much longer period of time than any type intended for automotive use. NEVER use a "Maintenance Free" type battery with an outboard unit. The charging system is not regulated as with automotive installations and the battery may be quickly damaged. BATTERY CONSTRUCTION A battery consists of a number of positive and negative plates immersed in a solution of diluted sulfuric acid. The plates contain dissimilar active materials and are kept apart by separators. The plates are grouped into what are termed elements. Plate straps on top of each element connect all of the positive plates and all of the negative plates into groups. The battery is divided into cells which hold a number of the elements apart from the others. The entire arrangement is contained within a hard-rubber case. The top is a one-piece cover and contains the filler caps for each cell. The terminal posts protrude through the top where the battery connections for the boat are made. Each of the cells is connected to its neighbor in a positive-to-negative manner with a heavy strap called the cell connector. CRACKED CELL COVER ELECTROLYTE A visual inspection of the battery should be made each time the boat is used. Such a quick check may reveal a potential problem in its early stages. A dead battery in a busy waterway or far from assistance could have serious consequences. BATTERY RATINGS Four different methods are used to measure and indicate battery electrical capacity: 1-Ampere-hour rating 2-Cold cranking performance 3-Reserve capacity 4-Watt hour rating The ampere-hour rating of a battery refers to the battery's ability to provide a set amount of amperes for a given amount of time under test conditions at a constant ° ° temperature of 80 (27 C). Amperes x hours equals ampere-hour rating. There fore, if the battery is capable of suppling 4 amperes of current for 20 consecutive hours, the battery is rated as an 80 amperehour battery. The ampere-hour rating is useful for some service operations, such as slow charging or battery testing. Cold cranking performance is mea..ured by cooling a fully charged battery to 0 F ( 0 17C) and then testing it for 30 seconds to determine the maximum current flow. In this manner the cold cranking amperes rating is the number of amperes available to be drawn from the battery before the voltage drops below 7.2 volts. The small added expense of a top quality battery switch with a key lock is well worth the investment. BATfERIES 7-3 Reserve capacity of a battery is considered the length of time --in minutes --at 0 0 80 F (27 C) a 25 ampere current can be maintained before the voltage drops below 10.5 volts. This test is intended to provide an approximation of how long the engine, including electrical accessories such as bilge pump, radio, running light, could continue to operate satisfactorily if the alternator or magneto did not produce sufficient current. A typical rating is 100 minutes. Watt-hour is a very useful rating of battery power. It is determined by multiplying the number of ampere hours times the voltage. Therefore, a 12-volt battery rated at 80 ampere-hours would be rated at 960 watt-hours (80 x 12 = 960). If possible, the new battery should have a power rating equal to or higher than the unit it is replacing. BATTERY LOCATION Every battery installed in a boat must be secured in a well-protected ventilated area. If the battery area lacks adequate ventilation, hydrogen gas which is given off during charging could become very explosive. This is especially true if the gas is concentrated and confined. BATTERY SERVICE The battery requires periodic serv1cmg and a definite maintenance program will ensure extended life. If the battery should test satisfactorily, but still fails to perform properly, one of five problems could be the cause. 1-An accessory might have accidently been left on overnight or for a long period during the day. Such an oversight would result in a discharged battery. 2-Slow speed engine operation for long periods of time resulting in an undercharged condition. 3-Using more electrical power than the altern a tor can replace would result in an undercharged condition. 4-A defect in the charging system. A faulty alternator, defective rectifier, or high ·resistance somewhere in the system could cause the battery to become undercharged. 5-Failure to maintain the battery in good order. This might include a low level of electrolyte in the cells; loose or dirty cable connections at the battery terminals; or possibly an excessively dirty battery top. Electrolyte Level The most common practice of checking the electrolyte level in a battery is to remove the cell cap and visually observe the level in the vent well. The bottom of each vent well has a split vent which will cause the surface of the electrolyte to appear distorted when it makes contact. When the distortion first appears at the bottom of the split vent, the electrolyte level is correct. Some late-model batteries have an electrolyte- level indicator installed which operates in the following manner: A transparent rod extends through the center of one of the cell caps. The lower tip of the rod is immersed in the electrolyte when the level is correct. If the level should drop below normal, the lower tip of the rod is exposed and the upper end glows as a warning to add water. Such a device is only necessary on one cell cap because if the electrolyte is low in one cell it is also low in the other cells. BE SURE to replace the cap with the indicator onto the second cell from the positive terminal. During hot weather and periods of heavy use, the electrolyte level should be checked more often than during normal operation. Add potable (drinking) water to bring the level of electrolyte in each cell to the proper level. TAKE CARE not to overfill, because adding an excessive amount of water will cause loss of electrolyte and any loss will result in poor performance, short battery life, and will contribute quickly to corrosion. NEVER add electrolyte from another battery. Use only clean pure water. The battery top should be kept clean. A water and baking soda solution applied with a brush will neutralize battery electrolyte and clean the top nicely. CORRECTION OF' 160 +30 1SO 140 +24 1.1so +22 130 +20 1.17S +18 120 +16 +14 1.200 110 +12 +10 1.22S 100 + + 90 + 4 1.2SO + 80 ° 1.27S - 70 - - 1.300 60 - -10 so -12 -14 -1 6 -18 30 -20 -22 20 -24 -26 -28 7-4 ELECTRICAL Battery Testing A hydrometer is a device to measure the percentage of sulfuric acid in the battery electro! yte in terms of specific gravity. When the condition of the battery drops from fully charged to discharged, the acid leaves the solution and enters the plates, causing the specific gravity of the electrolyte to drop. It may not be common knowledge, but hydrometer floats are calibrated for use at 80°F (27°C). If the hydrometer is used at any other temperature, hotter or colder, a correction factor must be applied. (Re ' +32 +28 +26 8 6 2 0 2 4 6 8 A check of the electrolyte in the battery should be on the maintenance schedule for any boat. A hydrometer reading of 1.300, or in the green band, indicates the battery is in satisfactory condition. If the reading is 1.150 or in the red band, the battery must be charged. Observe the six safety points listed in the text when using a hydrometer. member, a liquid will expand if it is heated and will contract if cooled. Such expansion and contraction will cause a definite change in the specific gravity of the liquid, in this case the electrolyte.) A quality hydrometer will have a ther mometer/temperature correction table in the lower portion, as shown in the accom panying illustration. By knowing the air temperature around the battery and from the table, a correction factor may be appli ed to the specific gravity reading of the hydrometer float. In this manner, an accur ate determination may be made as to the condition of the battery. The following six points should be ob served when using a hydrometer. 1-NEVER attempt to take a reading immediately after adding water to the bat tery. Allow at least 1/4 hour of charging at a high rate to thoroughly mix the electro lyte with the new water. This time will also allow for the necessary gasses to be creat ed. 2-ALWAYS be sure the hydrometer is clean inside and out as a precaution against contaminating the electrolyte. 3-If a thermometer is an integral part of the hydrometer, draw liquid into it sever al times to ensure the correct temperature before taking a reading. 4-BE SURE to hold the hydrometer vertically and suck up liquid only until the float is free and flo a tin g. 5-ALWAYS hold the hydrometer at eye level and take the reading at the surface of the liquid with the float free and floating. Disregard the light curvature appearing where the liquid rises against the float stem. This phenomenon is due to surface tension. 6-DO NOT drop any of the battery fluid on the boat or on your clothing, because it is extremely caustic. Use water and baking soda to neutralize any battery liquid that does accidently drop. After withdrawing electrolyte from the battery cell until the float is barely free, note the level of the liquid inside the hydrometer. If the level is within the green band range for all cells, the condition of the battery is satisfactory. If the level is within the white band for all cells, the battery is in fair condition. If the level is within the green or white band for all cells except one, which registers in the red, the cell is shorted internally. No amount of charging will bring the bat tery back to satisfactory condition. If the level in all cells is about the same, even if it falls in the red band, the battery may be recharged and returned to service. If the level fails to rise above the red band after charging, the only solution is to replace the battery. Cleaning Dirt and corrosion should be cleaned from the battery just as soon as it is discovered. Any accumulation of acid film or dirt will permit current to flow between the terminals. Such a current flow will drain the battery over a period of time. Clean the exterior of the battery with a solution of diluted ammonia or a soda solution to neutralize any acid which may be present. Flush the cleaning solution off with clean water. TAKE CARE to prevent any of the neutralizing solution from entering the cells, by keeping the caps tight. A poor contact at the terminals will add resistance to the charging circuit. This resistance will cause the voltage regulator to register a fully charged battery, and thus cut down on the alternator output adding to the low battery charge problem. Scrape the battery posts clean with a suitable tool or with a stiff wire brush. BATTERIES 7- 5 An inexpensive two-part tool will do an excellent job of cleaning the battery terminals and the inside of the cable connectors. Clean the inside of the cable clamps to be sure they do not cause any resistance in the circuit. JUMPER CABLES If booster batteries are used for starting an engine the jumper cables must be connected correctly and in the proper sequence to prevent damage to either battery, or to the alternator diodes. A common set of heavy-duty jumper cables. The booster battery must be connected correctly and in the An inexpensive two-part brush can be purchased and proper sequence, as outlined in the text, to prevent used to clean both the battery cable connectors (top) damage to the battery or to the alternator diodes. and the battery terminals (bottom). 7-6 ELECTRICAL ALWAYS connect a cable from the positive terminal of the dead battery to the positive terminal of the good battery FIRST. NEXT, connect one end of the other cable to the negative terminal of the good battery and the other end to a good ground on the powerhead. DO NOT connect the negative jumper from the good battery to the negative terminal of the low battery. Such action will almost always cause a spark which could ignite gases escaping through the vent holes in the battery filler caps. Igniting the gases may result in an explosion destroying the battery and causing severe personal INJURY. By making the negative (ground) connection on the powerhead, if an arc is created, it will not be near the battery. DISCONNECT the battery ground cable before replacing an alternator or before connecting any type of meter to the alternator. If it is necessary to use a fast-charger on a dead battery, ALWAYS disconnect one of the boat cables from the battery FIRST, to prevent burning out the diodes in the rectifier. NEVER use a fast-charger as a booster to start the engine because the diodes in the alternator will be DAMAGED. STORAGE If the boat is to be laid up for the winter or for more than a few weeks, special attention must be given to the battery to prevent complete discharge or possible damage to the terminals and wiring. Before putting the boat in storage, disconnect and remove the batteries. Clean them thoroughly of any dirt or corrosion, and then charge them to full specific gravity reading. After they are fully charged, store them in a clean cool dry place where they will not be damaged or knocked over, preferably on a couple blocks of wood. Storing the battery up off the deck, will permit air to circulate freely around and under the battery and will help to prevent condensation. NEVER store the battery with anything on top of it or cover the battery in such a manner as to prevent air from circulating around the fillercaps. All batteries, both new and old, will discharge during periods of storage, more so if they are hot than if they remain cool. Therefore, the electrolyte level and the specific gravity should be checked at regular intervals. A drop in the specific gravity reading is cause to charge them back to a full reading. In cold climates, care should be exercised in selecting the battery storage area. 0 0 OTHER LOAD Schematic drawing for a single battery, one engine Schematic drawing for a two battery, one engine installation. installation. A fully-charged battery will freeze at about 60 degrees below zero. A discharged battery, almost dead, will have ice forming at about 19 degrees above zero. DUAL BATTERY INSTALLATION Three methods are available for utilizing a dual-battery hook-up. 1-A high-capacity switch can be used to connect the two batteries. The accompanying illustration details the connections for installation of such a switch. This type of switch installation has the advantage of being simple, inexpensive, and easy to mount and hookup. However, if the switch is accidently left in the closed position, it will cause the convenience loads to run down both batteries and the advantage of the dual installation is lost. The switch may be closed intentionally to take advantage of the extra capacity of the two batteries, or it may be temporarily closed to help start the engine under adverse conditions. 2-A relay, can be connected into the ignition circuit to enable both batteries to be automatically put in parallel for charging or to isolate them for ignition use during engine cranking and start. By connecting the relay coil to the ignition terminal of the ignition-starting switch, the relay will close during the start to aid the starting battery. GAUGES 7-7 If the second battery is allowed to run down, this arrangement can be a disadvantage since it will draw a load from the starting battery while cranking the engine. One way to avoid such a condition is to connect the relay coil to the ignition switch accessory terminal. When connected in this manner, while the engine is being cranked, the relay is open. But when the engine is running with the ignition switch in the normal position, the relay is closed, and the second battery is being charged at the same time as the starting battery. 3-A heavy duty switch installed as close to the batteries as possible can be connected between them. If such an arrangement is used, it must meet the standards of the American Boat and Yacht Council, INC. or the Fire Protection Standard for Motor Craft, N.F.P.A. No. 302. 7-3 GAUGES Gauges or lights are installed to warn the operator of a condition in the cooling and lubrication systems that may need attention. The fuel gauge gives an indication of the amount of fuel in the tank. If the engine overheats or the oil pressure drops to low for safety, a gauge or warning light reminds the operator to shut down the engine and check the cause of the warning before serious damage is done. CONSTANT-VOLTAGE SYSTEM In order for gauges to register properly, they must be supplied with a steady voltage. Schematic drawing for a two battery, two engine Schematic drawing of a three battery, two engine installation. installation. 7-8 ELECTRICAL The voltage variations produced by the engine charging system would cause erratic gauge operation, too high when the alternator voltage is high and too low when the alternator is not charging. To remedy this problem, a constant-voltage system is used to reduce the 12-14 volts of the electrical system to an average of 5 volts. This steady 5 volts ensures the gauges will read accurately under varying conditions from the electrical system. If other accessories seem to have a higher voltage than necessary, lights burn too brightly, a voltage regulator is available from the local marine dealer. SERVICE PROCEDURES Systems utilizing warning lights do not require a constant-voltage system, therefore, this service is not needed. Service procedures for checking the gauges and their sending units is detailed in the following sections. 7-4 TEMPERATURE GAUGES The housing of temperature gauges must be grounded and they must be supplied with 12 volts. Many gauges have a terminal on the mounting bracket for attaching a ground wire. A tang from the mounting bracket makes contact with the gauge. CHECK to be sure the tang does make good contact with the gauge. Ground the wire to the sending unit and the needle of the gauge should move to the full right position indicating the gauge is in serviceable condition. WARNING LIGHTS If a problem arises on a boat equipped with water and temperature lights, the first area to check is the light assembly for loose wires or burned-out bulbs. When the ignition key is turned on, the light assembly is supplied with 12 volts and grounded through the sending unit mounted on the engine. When the sending unit makes contact because the water temperature is too hot, the circuit to ground is completed and the lamp should light. Check The Bulb: Turn the ignition switch on. Disconnect the wire at the engine sending unit, and then ground the wire. The lamp on the dash should light. If it does not light, check for a burned-out bulb or a break in the wiring to the light. THERMO MELT STICKS Thermomelt sticks are an easy method of determining if the engine is running at the proper temperature. Thermomelt sticks are not expensive and are available at yo11r local marine dealer. Start the engine with the propeller in the water and run it for about 5 minutes at roughly 3000 rpm. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time th"" engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. The gauges, indicator lights, and other instruments on the control panel should be kept clean and protected A thermomelt stick is a quick, simple, inexpensive, from water spray as much as practical. This is especiand fairly accurate method of determining the operatally important when operating in salt water. ing temperature of the powerhead. GAUGES 7-9 The 140 degree stick should melt when you touch it to the lower thermostat housing or on the top cylinder. If it does not melt, the thermostat is stuck in the open position and the engine temperature is too low. Touch the 170 degree stick to the same spot on the lower thermostat housing or on the top cy Iinder. The stick should not melt. If it does, the thermostat is stuck in the closed position or the water pump is not operating properly because the engine is running too hot. If the powerhead is not equipped with a thermostat, the problem may be solved by reverse flushing to clean out the cooling system and/or servicing the water pump. For service procedures for the thermostat, see Chapter 3. For service procedures for the water pump, see Chapter 10. 7-5 FUEL GAUGES The fuel gauge is intended to indicate the quantity of fuel in the tank. As the experienced boa tperson has learned, the gauge reading is seldom an accurate report of the fuel available in the tank. The main reason for this false reading is because the boat is rarely on an even keel. A considerable difference in fuel quantity will be indicated by the gauge if the bow or stern is heavy, or if the boat has a list to port or starboard. Therefore, the reading is usually low. The amount of fuel drawn from the tank is dependent on the location of the fuel pickup tube in the tank. The engine may cutout while cruising because the pickup tube is above the fuel level. Instead of assuming the tank is empty, shift weight in the boat IGNITION BATTERYSWITCH TANK GROUNDED THROUGH FRAME Schematic diagram for a safe fuel tank gauge hookup. The tank must be grounded either through the frame or with a separate grounding strap. to change the trim and the problem may be solved until you are able to take on more fuel. FUEL GAUGE HOOKUP The Boating Industry Association recom mends the following color coding be used on all fuel gauge installations: Black --for all grounded current-carry ing conductors. Pink --insulated wire for the fuel gauge sending unit to the gauge. Red --insulated wire for a connection from the positive side of the battery to any electrical equipment. Connect one end of a pink insulated wire to the terminal on the gauge marked TANK and the other end to the terminal on top of the tank unit. Connect one end of a black wire to the terminal on the fuel gauge marked IGN and the other end to the ignition switch. Connect one end of a second black wire to the fuel gauge terminal marked GRD and the other end to a good ground. It is important for the fuel gauge case to have a good common ground with the tank unit. Aboard an all-metal boat, this ground wire is not necessary. However, if the dashboard ls insulated, or made of wood or plastic, a wire MUST be run from the gauge ground terminal to one of the bolts securing the sending unit in the fuel tank, and then from there to the NEGATIVE side of the battery. FUEL GAUGE TROUBLESHOOTING In order for the fuel gauge to operate properly the sending unit and the receiving unit must be of the same type and preferably of the same make. The following symptoms and possible corrective actions will be helpful in restoring a faulty fuel gauge circuit to proper operation. If you suspect the gauge is not operating properly, the first area to check is all electrical connections from one end to the other. Be sure they are clean and tight. Next, check the common ground wire between the negative side of the battery, the fuel tank, and the gauge on the dash. If all wires and connections in the circuit are in good condition, remove the sending unit from the tank. Run a wire from the gauge mounting flange on the tank to the 7-10 ELECTRICAL flange of the sending unit. Now, move the float up-and-down to determine if the receiving unit operates. If the sending unit does not appear to operate, move the float to the midway point of its travel and see if the receiving unit indicates half full. If the pointer does not move from the EMPTY position one of four faults could be to blame: 1-The dash receiving unit is not properly grounded. 2-No voltage at the dash receiving unit. 3-Negative meter connections are on a positive grounded system. 4-Positive meter connections are on a negative grounded system. If the pointer fails to move from the FULL position, the problem could be one of three faults. 1-The tank sending unit is not properly grounded. 2-Improper connection between the tank sending unit and the receiving unit on the dash. 3-The wire from the gauge to the ignition switch is connected at the wrong terminal. If the pointer remains at the 3/4 full mark, it indicates a six-volt gauge is installed in a 12-volt system. If the pointer remains at about 3/8 full, it indicates a 12-volt gauge is installed in a six-volt system. Preliminary Inspection Inspect all of the wiring in the circuit for possible damage to the insulation or conductor. Carefully check: 1-Ground connections at the receiving unit on the dash. 2-Harness connector to the dash unit. 3-Body harness connector to the chassis harness. 4-Ground connection from the fuel tank to the tank floor pan. 5-Feed wire connection at the tank sending unit. GAUGE ALWAYS READS FULL when the ignition switch is ON: 1-Check the electrical connections at the receiving unit on the dash; the body harness connector to chassis harness connector; and the tank unit connector in the tank. 2-Make a continuity check of the ground wire from the tank to the tank floor pan . 3-Connect a known good tank unit to the tank feed wire and the ground lead. Raise and lower the float and observe the receiving unit on the dash. If the dash unit follows the arm movement, replace the tank sending unit. GAUGE ALWAYS READS EMPTY when the ignition switch is ON: Disconnect the tank unit feed wire and do not allow the wire terminal to ground. The gauge on the dash should read FULL. If Gauge Reads Empty: 1-Connect a spare dash unit into the dash unit harness connector and ground the unit. If the spare unit reads FULL, the original unit is shorted and must be replaced. CHOKE SWITCH TACHOMETE R CONNECTOR The indicator and control panel should be kept clean Many models of shift boxes now have a plug-in and protected from water spray, especially when operconnector on the forward face for installation of a ating in a salt water atmosphere. tachometer cable. TACHOMETER 7-11 2-A reading of EMPTY indicates a short in the harness between the tank sending unit and the gauge on the dash. If Gauge Reads Full: 1-Connect a known good tank sending unit to the tank feed wire and the ground lead. 2-Raise and lower the float while observing the dash gauge. If dash gauge follows movement of the float, replace the tank sending unit. GAUGE NEVER INDICATES FULL This test requires shop test equipment. 1-Disconnect the feed wire to the tank unit and connect the wire to a good ground through a variable resistor or through a spare tank unit. 2-Observe the dash gauge reading. The reading should be FULL when resistance is increased to about 90 ohms. This resistance would simulate a full tank. 3-If the check indicates the dash gauge is operating properly, the trouble is either in the tank sending unit rheostat being shorted, or the float is binding. The arm could be bent, or the tank may be deformed. Inspect and correct the problem . 7-6 TACHOMETER An accurate tachometer can be installed on any engine. Such an instrument provides an indication of engine speed in revolutions per minute (rpm). This is accomplished by measuring the number of electrical pulses per minute generated in the primary circuit of the ignition system. The meter readings range from 0 to 6,000 rpm, in increments of 100. Tachometers have solid-state electronic circuits which eliminates the need for relays or batteries and contributes to their accuracy. The electronic parts of the tachometer susceptible to moisture are coated to prolong their life. Most outboard units covered in this manual have a female plug at the forward end of the shift box as a convenience for installation of a tachometer. Therefore, when purchasing a ·tachometer, check to be sure the adaptor plug will mate with the fitting on the shift box. 7-7 HORNS The only reason for serv1cmg a horn is because it fails to operate properly or because it is out of tune. In most cases, the problem can be traced to an open circuit in the wiring or to a defective relay. Cleaning: Crocus cloth and carbon tetrachloride should be used to clean the contact points. NEVER force the contacts apart or you will bend the contact spring and change the operating tension. Check Relay and Wiring: Connect a wire from the battery to the horn terminal. If the horn operates, the problem is in the relay or in the horn wiring. If both of these appear satisfactory, the horn is defective and needs to be replaced. Before replacing the horn however, connect a second jumper wire from the horn frame to ground to check the ground connection. Test the winding for an open circuit, faulty insulation, or poor ground. Check the resistor with an ohmmeter, or test the condenser for capacity, ground, and leakage. Inspect the diaphragm for cracks. CONTACT BLADE INSULATOR The tone of a horn can be adjusted with a 0.007" feeler gauge, as described in the text. TAKE CARE to prevent the feeler gauge from making contact with the case, or the circuit will be shorted out. motor installation on the 7-12 ELECTRICAL Adjust Horn Tone: Loosen the locknut, and then rotate the adjusting screw until the desired tone is reached. On a dual horn installation, disconnect one horn and adjust each, one-at-atime. The contact point adjustment is made by inserting a 0.007" (0.18mm) feeler gauge blade between the adjusting nut and the contact blade insulator. TAKE CARE not to allow the feeler gauge to touch the metallic parts of the contact points because it would short them out. Now, loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting nut down until the horn fails to sound. Loosen the adjusting nut slowly until the horn barely sounds. The locknut MUST be tightened after each test. When the feeler gauge is withdrawn the horn will operate properly and the current draw will be satisfactory. 7-8 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GENERAL ..FORMATION In the early days, all outboard engines were started by simply pulling on a rope wound around the flywheel. As the manufacturers increased the size and horsepower, especially after the introduction of 3-and 4-cylinder high-compression units, it was necessary to replace the rope starter with some form of power cranking system. Today, most small engines are still started by pulling on a rope. The system utilized to replace the rope method on larger engines was an electric Functional diagram of a typical cranking circuit. cranking motor coupled with a mechanical gear mesh between the cranking motor and the engine flywheel, similar to the method used to crank an automobile engine. Since the starting motor requires a large amount of electrical current, it is necessary to have a fully charged battery available for the starting system. The battery can be externally charged or the engine can be equipped with an alternator to charge the battery while the engine is operating. After the battery became a standard addition to the larger engines, the next logical improvement was to improve the ignition system. Since the mid 1960's, the trend has been to replace the conventional ignition system with a capacitor-discharge (CD) type system, using a solid-state amplifier. With this system, a pulse generator replaces the conventional breaker points. The electrical system consists of four circuits: a-Charging circuit b-Cranking motor circuit c-Choke circuit d-Ignition circuit Typical cranking powerTypical location of a marine cranking motor solenhead of outboard units covered in this manual. oid. An automotive-type solenoid should never be used. Charging Circuit The charging circuit consists of permanent magnets and a stator located within the flywheel; a rectifier located elsewhere on the powerhead; an external battery; and the necessary wiring to connect the units. The negative side of the rectifier is grounded. The positive side of the rectifier passes through the internal harness plug to the battery. The negative side of the battery is connected, through the connector, to a good ground on the engine. The alternating current generated in the stator windings passes to the rectifier. The rectifier changes the alternating current(AC) to direct current (DC) to charge the 12-vol t battery. Cranking Motor Circuit The cranking motor circuit consists of a cranking motor and a starter-engaging mechanism. A solenoid is used as a heavyduty switch to carry the heavy current from the battery to the cranking motor. On most models, the solenoid is actuated by turning the ignition key to the START position. CHARGING CIRCUIT SERVICE 7-13 Choke Circuit The choke is activated by a solenoid. This solenoid attracts a plunger to close the choke valves. The solenoid is energized when the ignition key is turned to the START position and the choke button is depressed. When using the electric choke, the manual choke MUST be in the DOWN position. Ignition Circuit The ignition circuit is covered extensively in Chapter 5. 7-9 CHARGING CIRCUIT SERVICE The stator is located under, and protected by, the flywheel. Therefore, the stator seldom causes problems in the charging circuit. Most problems in the charging circuit can be traced to the rectifier or to the battery. If either the stator or the rectifier fails the troubleshooting tests, the defective unit cannot be repaired, it MUST be replaced. Flywheel removed exposing the stator of a typical Typical location of the choke solenoid mounted on charging circuit system on the powerhead of units the powerhead. covered in this manual. 7-16 ELECTRICAL ed, simply replacing it will only result in the new one being burned-out. A burned-out rectifier in most cases is caused by improper procedure at the battery, or when handling the battery leads: a-The battery leads of the electrical control harness are connected to the wrong terminals at the battery. b-The battery leads were disconnected from the battery terminals while the engine was running. c-On early model engines, turning the engine off with the ignition switch while the engine is running above an idle speed. d-An open circuit resulting from a broken wire, a loose connection, corroded switch contact, or loose harness connector at the engine cowl. Rectifier Testing The following test may be performed when testing any of the rectifiers shown in the illustration identified with this step. 1-To test half of the rectifier: a-Obtain an ohmmeter. b-Connect the red test lead to the alternator terminal. c-Connect the black test lead to the positive terminal of the rectifier. d-The ohmmeter should indicate continuity. 2-Reverse the test lead connections. e-The ohmmeter should indicate NO continuity. Half of the rectifier has now been successfully tested. f-Repeat steps b .through e for the other half of the rectifier. Testing the Diodes 3-To test the diodes: a-Connect the red ohmmeter test lead to the alternator terminal. b-Connect the black test lead to the rectifier ground stud. c-The ohmmeter should indicate NO continuity. d-Reverse the test lead connections. e-The ohmmeter should indicate continuity. Half of the rectifier has now been successfully tested. f-Repeat steps a through e for the other rectifier half. g-Replace the rectifier if the unit fails any part of the foregoing tests. 4-The following test may be performed when testing the rectifier shown in the illustration identified with this step. a-Obtain an ohmmeter. b-Connect the red (positive) ohmmeter lead to the rectifier case. c-Connect the black (negative) ohmmeter lead alternately to the No. 1 and No. 3 rectifier terminals. d-At each terminal (1 and 3), the meter pointer should move to the right of Scale 3. If the pointer does not move when connected, the rectifier is defective and MUST be replaced. e-Connect the black meter lead to the rectifier case. f-Connect the red lead alternately to the No. 1 and No. 3 rectifier terminals. g-At each terminal (1 a..d 3), . the meter pointer should remam stationary on the left side of Scale 3. If the pointer moves when the leads are connected to either terminal, the rectifier is defective and MUST be replaced. ALWAYS use a late-model rectifier as a replacement. 5-To continue with the testing: h-Connect the black meter lead to the No. 2 rectifier terminal. i-Connect the red meter lead alternately to the No. 1 and No. 3 rectifier terminals. j-At each terminal (1 and 3), the meter pointer should move to the right of Scale 3. If the pointer does not move when the lead is conected to either terminal, the rectififer is defective and MUST be replaced. k-Connect the red meter lead to the No. 2 rectifier terminal. 1-Connect the black lead al terna tley to the No. 1 and No. 3 rectifier terminals. m-At each terminal, the meter pointer should remain stationary on the left side of Scale 3. If the pointer moves when the lead is connected to either terminal, the rectifier is defective and MUST be REPLACED. ALWAYS use a late-model rectifier as a replacement. RECTIFIER INSTALLATION Place the rectifier in position on the engine and secure it with the attaching bolts STATOR SERVICE 7-17 or nuts. Connect the two yellow leads and the positive lead to the rectifier. Connect the battery leads securely to the battery. 7-10 STATOR SERVICE This section provides detailed procedures for testing, removing, and installing the stator. Stator Testing 1-The stator may be tested without removing the flywheel, by merely disco..necting the two yellow leads from the rectifier and using an ohmmeter. Check the resistance of the stator windings against those given on Page 5-50. If the stator resistance does not meet specifications, it MUST be replaced. 7-1 8 ELECTRICAL REMOVAL BAD NEWS: The flywheel must be removed to gain access to the stator. 2-If a battery is used to crank the engine, disconnect the battery leads from the battery terminals. Remove the front cowl cover and the wrap-around cowl, if one is used. Remove the top cowl. Remove the nut on the crankshaft in the center of the flywheel. A flywheel holder may be required to prevent the flywheel from turning in order to loosen the nut. 3-Remove the timing belt from the distributor pulley. A timing belt is not used on engines equipped with CD ignition. Obtain the proper flywheel puller to pull the flywheel. NEVER use a puller which pulls on the outside edge of the flywheel, or the flywheel may be damaged. After the puller is installed, tighten the center screw onto the end of the crankshaft. Continue tightening the screw until the flywheel is released from the crankshaft. Remove the flycrankshaft and at the same time, slide the timing belt free of the flywheel pulley. 4-Remove the yellow wires leading from the stator to the black terminal on the rectifier. Remove the retaining screw from the stator engine. and lift the stator from the INSTALLATION 5-Position the timing belt over the crankshaft and on top of the engine. Place the stator in position on the engine. Coat the threads of the stator attaching screws with blue Loctite, or equivalent. Secure the wheel puller. Lift the flywheel from the stator with the attaching screws through the stator into the engine block. 6-Insert the flywheel key into the crankshaft keyway. Check to be sure the inside taper of the flywheel and the taper on the crankshaft are clean of dirt or oil, to prevent the flywheel from "walking" on the crankshaft during operation. Slide the flywheel down over the crankshaft with the keyway in the flywheel aligned with the key on the crankshaft, and at the same time, work the timing belt around the flywheel pulley. Rotate the flywheel clockwise and check to be sure the flywheel does not contact any engine part or the wiring. Thread the flywheel nut onto the crankshaft, and then tighten it to a torque value of 100 ft lb (136 Nm). Work the timing belt onto the distributor pulley. (Engines equipped with a CD ignition system will not have a timing belt.) For detailed timing procedures, see Chapter 6. 7-11 CHOKE AND ENRICHENER CIRCUITS This short section provides instructions to test the choke circuit. The choke solenoid cannot be serviced. If the system fails the test, the attaching hardware can be removed and the choke assembly replaced. CHOKE & ENRICHEI\ER CIRCUITS 7-19 PLUNGER CHOKESOLENOID. Typical layout of the carburetors, choke pltu1ger, solenoid, and linkage for a 4-cylinder in-line powerhead. On almost all powerheads covered in this manual, the choke circuit has been replaced with an enrichener valve circuit. The enr ichener valve system is covered in this section after the choke circuit. Choke Circuit Testing The choke circuit may be quickly tested to determine if it is functioning properly as follows: a-Obtain an ohmmeter. b-Connect the black meter lead to an unpainted portion of the engine block for a good ground. c-Connect the red meter lead to the choke terminal. d-Test the circuit using the Rxl scale of the ohmmeter. The reading should be less than 1.0 ohm. e-After the test is completed, check to be sure the choke plunger is pulled into the choke solenoid. REDLEAD CHOKE SOLENOID TERMINAL Hook-up of the test leads to test the choke solenoid, as outlined in the text. ENRICHENER SYSTEM Almost all powerheads covered in this manual, are equipped with an enrichener system, replacing the traditional choke system. Description An electrically operated enrichener valve mounted on the port side of the powerhead, as shown in the accompanying illustration, is supplied with fuel via a fuel line from the float bowl of the top carburetor. When the ignition key is rotated to the ON position and pushed inward to start a cold powerhead, the enrichener system is energized. Fuel is then fed to all cylinders through short hoses and fittings at the intake manifold close to the carburetor mounting flanges. As soon as the ignition key is released, electrical current to the system is cutoff; the valve closes; and fuel through the valve stops. Enrichener Valve Circuit Testing When the system is energized, the ignition switch rotated to the ON position and pushed inward, the valve should open. If the valve opens, an audible "click" should be heard at the valve. If no "click" is heard indicating the valve has not opened, obtain a voltmeter and set the meter to the 12VDC scale. Make contact with the Black meter lead to a suitable ground on the powerhead. Make contact with the Red meter lead to the Yellow/ Black lead (from the enrichener valve) at the terminal block on the powerhead. If the meter fails to register 12V, check for an open in the Yellow/Black lead between the ignition switch and the terminal block. If the meter registers 12V, check for corroded or loose connections at the Yellow/ Black lead and the Black lead at the terminal block. If the enrichener valve still fails to open, no "click" is heard, when the system is energized, replace the valve. If the "click" is heard but fuel fails to flow from the lower fuel line at the valve, the cause is most likely a blockage or leak in the fuel delivery hose. Activate the primer bulb. Disconnect the lower fuel line from the valve. Position a suitable container under the valve and then rotate and push inward on the ignition switch. Fuel should flow from the valve. If fuel flows -all is well with the valve. If the fuel is not reaching a cylinder, the delivery hose to the affected cylinder must have a blockage or leak. If no fuel flows from the valve; remove the upper fuel delivery hose; hold the container under the disconnected line; activate the primer valve again; and verify fuel is reaching the enrichener valve. If no fuel flows from the disconnected line, the problem is in the top carburetor or delivery hose. The problem may be a blockage in the line or a leak, either in the hose or at a fitting. If fuel flows from the disconnected delivery line, but fuel fails to flow from the lower fitting when the valve is energized, the enrichener valve is defective and MUST be replaced. BAD NEWS The enrichener valve cannot be serviced. A new valve must be purchased and installed. Location of the enrichener valve on a late model 4cylinder powerhead. ENRICHEI'ER SYSTEM 7-21 MANUAL OPERATION BUTTON t ELECTRI CAL HARNESS ENRI CHENER VALVE TO TOP CARBURETOR Layout of the enrichener valve and associated hoses .. INTAKE on a 3-cylinder powerhead. MANIFOLD Layout of the enrichener valve and associated hoses on a 4-cylinder powerhead. Typical location of an enrichener valve --shown An enrichener valve removed from the powerhead, here on a 90hp powerhead. with major parts identified. Typical Bosch cranking motor used with the powerheads covered in this manual. 7-22 ELECTRICAL 7-12 CRANKING MOTOR CIRCUIT SERVICE DESCRIPTION As the name implies, the sole purpose of the cranking motor circuit is to control operation of the cranking motor to crank the engine until the powerhead is operating. The circuit includes a solenoid or magnetic switch to connect or disconnect the motor from the battery. The operator controls the switch with a push button or key switch. A neutral start switch is installed into the circuit to permit operation of the cranking motor ONLY if the shift control lever is in NEUTRAL. This switch is a safety device to prevent accidental engine start when the engine is in gear. The cranking motor is a series wound electric motor which draws a heavy current from the battery. It is designed to be used only for short periods of time to crank the engine for starting. To prevent overheating the motor, cranking should not be continued for more than 30-seconds without allowing the motor to cool for at least three minutes. Actually, this time can be spent in making preliminary checks to determine why the engine fails to start. Theory of Operation Power is transmitted from the cranking motor to the engine flywheel through a Bendix drive. This drive has a pinion gear mounted on screw threads. When the motor is operated, the pinion gear moves upward and meshes with the teeth on the flywheel ring gear. When the engine starts, the pinion gear is driven faster than the shaft, and as a result, it screws out of mesh with the flywheel. A rubber cushion is built into the Bendix drive to absorb the shock when the pinion meshes with the flywheel ring gear. The parts of the drive MUST be properly assembled for efficient operation. If the drive is removed for cleaning, TAKE CARE to assemble the parts as shown in the accompanying illustration. If the screw shaft assembly is reversed, it will strike the splines and the rubber cushion will not absorb the shock. The sound of the motor during cranking is a good indication of whether the cranking motor is operating properly or not. Naturally, temperature conditions will affect the speed at which the cranking motor is able to crank the engine. The speed of cranking a cold engine will be much slower than when cranking a warm engine. An experienced operator will learn to recognize the favor- Typical Delco Remy cranking motor used with powerheads covered in this manual. removed if the corrective actions outlined under Faulty Symptoms above, does not restore the motor to satisfactory operation. The drive gear moves on the cranking motor shaft during motor operation. Therefore, the shaft should be lubricated with a very small amount of light-weight oil. TAKE CARE to prevent the lubricant from entering the cranking motor. "S" Te-rmine FOR MARINE USE ONLY FOR AUTOMOTIVE USE ONLY "!" TermHlC) Schematic diagram of a marine solenoid (top) and an automotive solenoid (bottom). The marine solenoid has an internal ground and is therefore suitable for outable sounds of the powerhead cranking under various conditions. Faulty Symptoms If the cranking motor spins, but fails to crank the engine, the cause is usually a corroded or gummy Bendix drive. The drive should be removed, cleaned, and given an inspection. If the cranking motor cranks the engine to slowly, the following are possible causes and the corrective actions that may be taken: a-Battery charge is low. Charge the battery to full capacity. b-High resistance connections at the battery, solenoid, or motor. Clean and tighten all connections. c-Undersize battery cables. Replace cables with sufficient size. d-Battery cables too long. Relocate the battery to shorten the run to the solenoid. Maintenance The cranking motor does not require periodic maintenance or lubrication. If the motor fails to perform proper! y, the checks outlined in the previous paragraph should be performed. The frequency of starts governs how often the motor should be removed and reconditioned. The manufacturer recommends removal and reconditioning every 1000 hours. Naturally, the motor will have to be CRANKING CIRCUIT SERVICE 7-23 -.. SWITCH Functional diagram of a typical cranking circuit. CRANKING MOTOR TROUBLESHOOTING Before wasting too much time troubleshooting the cranking motor circuit, the following checks should be made. Many times, the problem will be corrected. a-Battery fully charged. b-Shift control lever in NEUTRAL. c-All electrical connections clean and tight. d-Wiring in good condition, insulation not worn or frayed. Two more areas may cause the power head to crank slowly even though the cranking motor circuit is in excellent condition: board installations. a tight or "frozen" powerhead and water in the lower unit. The following troubleshooting procedures are presented in a logical sequence, with the most common and easily corrected areas listed first in each problem area. The connection number refers to the numbered positions in the accompanying illustrations. Perform the following quick checks and corrective actions for following problems: 1-Cranking Motor Rotates Slowly a-Battery charge is low. Charge the battery to full capacity. b-Electrical connections corroded or loose. Clean and tighten. c-Defective cranking motor. Perform an amp draw test. Lay an amp drawgauge on the cable leading to the cranking motor. Turn the key on and attempt to crank the engine. If the gauge indicates an excessive amperage draw, the cranking motor MUST be replaced or rebuilt. 2-Cranking Motor Fails to Crank Powerhead Test Motor a-Disconnect the cranking motor lead from the solenoid to prevent the powerhead from starting during the testing process. NOTE: This lead is to remain disconnected from the solenoid during tests No. 2 thru No. 7. b-Disconnect the Black ground wire from the No. 2. c-Connect a voltmeter between the No. 2 and a common engine ground. d-Turn the key switch to the START position. · e-Observe the voltmeter reading. If there is the slightest amount of reading, check the black ground wire connection or check for an open circuit. Connect the ground wire back to the No. 2 and move to Step 7. If there is no voltmeter reading, proceed with Step 3. 3-Test Cranking Motor Solenoid a-Connect a voltmeter between the engine common ground and the No. 3. b-Turn the ignition key switch to the START position. c-Observe the voltmeter reading. If there is the slightest indication of a reading, the solenoid is defective and must be replaced. If there is no reading, proceed with Step 4. 4-Test Neutral Start Swtich a-Connect a voltmeter between the common engine ground and the No. 4. Turn the ignition key switch to the START position. b-Observe the voltmeter. If there is any indication of a reading, the neutral start switch is open in the shift box or the Yellow or Yellow/Red wire lead is open between the No. 3 and No. 4. If there is no voltmeter reading, proceed to Step 5. 5-Test Ignition Switch a-Connect a voltmeter between a common engine ground and No. 5. b-Observe the voltmeter. If there is the slightest indication of a reading, the ignition switch is defective and must be replaced. If there is no reading, proceed with Step 6. 6-Test for Open Wire a-Connect a voltmeter between the common engine ground and No. 6. b-The voltmeter should indicate 12volts. If the meter needle flickers (fails to hold steady), check the circuit between No. 6 and common engine ground. If meter fails to indicate voltage, replace the positive battery cable. 7-Further Tests for Solenoid a-Connect the voltmeter between the common engine ground and No. 1. b-Turn the ignition key switch to the START position. c-Observe the voltmeter. If there is no reading, the cranking motor solenoid is defective and must be replaced. If a reading is indicated and a click sound is heard, proceed to Step 8. 8-Test Yellow Cable a-Connect the Yellow cable to the cranking motor solenoid. b-Connect the voltmeter between the engine common ground and No. 7. c-Turn the ignition key switch to the START position. d-Observe the voltmeter. If there is no reading, check the Yell ow cable for a poor connection or an open circuit. If BATTERY RED CRANKING CIRCUIT SERVICE 7-25 there is any indic2.tion of a reading, and the starter does not turn, the cranking motor must be replaced. CRANKING MOTOR SOLENOID TROUBLESHOOTING Description The cranking motor solenoid is a switch between the battery and the motor. Several types of solenoids are used and many look very much alike. For marine applications, a solenoid with an internal ground is used. Grounding this type solenoid is accomplished by a wire internally connected to one of the small terminals. Connecting an external wire for a ground will serve no purpose. NEVER attempt to use an automotive-type STARTER YELLOW STARTER SOLENOID t. 'E:Ltow OR. YELLOW OR YELLOW/RED NEUTRAL START SWITCH (LOCATED IN CONTROL HOUSING) ..CD 7-26 ELECTRICAL Test leads connected to a solenoid in preparation to testing as explained in the text. solenoid, because such a unit will cause more trouble and damage than can be imag ined. When purchasing a replacement solenoid, look for a statement on the package indicating the unit is for marine use. Illustrations of several different type solenoids are included in this section as an assist to understanding the operating functions of each type. Solenoid Testing The following test must be conducted with the solenoid removed from the engine. a-Connect one test lead of an ohmmeter to each of the large solenoid terminals. b-Connect the positive (+) lead from a fully charged 12-volt battery to the small solenoid terminal marked S. c-Momentarily make contact with the ground lead from the battery to the small solenoid terminal marked I. If a loud "click" sound is heard, and the ohmmeter indicates continuity, the solenoid is in serviceable condition. If, however, a "click" sound is not heard, and/or the ohmmeter does not indicate continuity, the solenoid is defective and must be replaced ONLY with a MARINE- type solenoid. CRANKING MOTOR SERVICE Description The Delco-Remy cranking motor replaces the American Bosch cranking motor installed on early models. The Delco-Remy is completely interchangeable with the Bosch on all models. A new improved Bosch-type This solenoid acts as a relay in the cranking motor circuit. If the unit is found to be defective it MUSI' be A cutaway drawing of a cranking motor solenoid replaced. with major parts identified. cranking motor is installed on some late model powerheads covered in this manual. A heavy duty Prestolite cranking motor is used on the larger V6 powerheads. Marine cranking motors used on the powerheads covered in this manual, are very similar in construction and operation to the units used in the automotive industry. These motors use an inertia-type drive assembly. This type assembly is mounted on an armature shaft with external spiral splines which mate with the internal splines of the drive assembly. NEVER operate a cranking motor for more than 30-seconds without allowing it to cool for at least three minutes. Continuous operation without the cooling period can cause serious damage to the cranking motor. Most cranking motors operate in much the same manner and the service work involved in restoring a defective unit to service is almost identical. Therefore, the inforrna tion in this chapter is grouped together for the major components of the starter under separate headings. Differences, where they occur, between the various manufacturers, are clear! y indica ted. CRANKING MOTOR REMOVAL Before beginning any work on the cranking motor, disconnect the positive (+) lead CRANKING CIRCUIT SERVICE 7-27 Typical cranking motor installation on the powerhead. from the battery terminal. Remove the front cowl cover and the wrap-around cowl, if one is used. Disconnect the yellow cable at the cranking motor terminal. Remove the solenoid from the starter motor. Remove the mounting bolts from the cranking motor housing and remove the starter from the engine. External views comparing a Delco Remy (left) and a Bosch (right) cranking motor. 7-28 ELECTRICAL PINION GEAR DISASSEMBLING Three different type drive gear arrangements are used on outboard cranking motors. One uses a drive gear with a rubber cushion; the second a snap ring, or nut; and the third uses a drive gear with a top spring. Detailed proceduures are presented in this section to service each type. Instructions for servicing the drive gear with rubber cushion is given first. PINION GEAR WITH RUBBER CUSHION These cranking motors have the drive secured to the shaft by means of a castillated nut. Begin diassembling by removing the cotter pin from the armature shaft end, and then unscrew the castillated nut. The drive mechanism is now ready to be removed in the following sequence: pinion stop, antidrift spring, pinion washer, anti-drift spring sleeve, pinion gear, screw shaft, thrust washer, cushion cup, cushion, cushion spacer, and thrust washer. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Inspect the pinion gear teeth for chips, cracks, or a broken tooth. Check the spline inside the pinion gear for burrs and to be sure the pinion gear moves freely on the armature shaft. Check to be sure the return spring is flexible and has not become distorted. Inspect the rubber cushion for · cracks and for signs of oil on the cushion. Clean the armature shaft with crocus cloth. ASSEMBLING PINION GEAR WITH RUBBER CUSHION 1-Begin by assembling the following parts in the order given: the thrust washer, SPRING ." ,ANTI-DRIFT CASTillATED, Sl SPRING NUT Arrangement of parts for the drive gear with rubber cushion of a Delco Remy cranking motor. cushion spacer, cushion, cushion cup with the open end over the cushion, and then the thrust washer. 2-Install the screw shaft with the splined end facing UP. Lubricate the underside with Multipurpose Lubricant, or equivalent. Install the pinion gear with the screw end facing DOWN. 3-Slide the spring sleeve onto the armature shaft with the flared end facing the pinion gear. Place the washer over the sleeve, and then install the anti-drift spring, and the pinion gear stop with the recessed end facing DOWN. 4-Secure the assembly with the castillated nut tightened to a torque value of 200 in. lbs (22.5 Nm). Now, turn the nut slightly more until the cotter pin can be inserted through the nut and the hole in the shaft. DISASSEMBLING PINION GEAR WITH SNAP RING OR NUT This type cranking motor has the pinion gear secured to the shaft with a snap ring. 1-Remove the pinion gear from the armature. This is accomplished by sliding a deep half-inch socket onto the shaft until the end of the socket butts against the edge of the pinion stop collar. Next, tap the end of the socket to drive the stop collar away from the snap ring. 2-Remove the snap ring from the groove in the shaft. 3-If a nut is used instead of the snap ring, slide the pinion gear upward, and then place a wrench on the retaining nut. Hold the pinion gear with a pair of vise grip pliers. Hold firm and at the same time back-off the nut with the wrench. Remove and DISCARD the nut. NEVER attempt to use the same nut a second time. 4-To remove the pinion gear and spring, move the gear upward on the shaft, and then snap the spring out of the hole on the bottom side of the gear. 1/2-INCH SOCKET y,.. , ,c;9,'lf'I,J."CL,, ,, , CRANKING CIRCUIT SERVICE 7-29 VICE GRIP Pll ERS NUT'(USE WRENCH) .5-Use a screwdriver and lift the other end of the spring from the armature shaft. If other work is to be performed on the starter move directly to the starter repair section in this chapter. SPRING 7-30 ELECTRICAL Cranking motor using a top return spring. The spring pushes the drive downward to help disengage the drive gear from the flywheel. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Inspect the pinion gear teeth for chips, cracks, or a broken tooth. Check the splines inside the pinion gear for burrs and to be sure the gear moves freely on the armature shaft. BAD NEWS This type of cranking motor pinion gear assembly cannot be repaired if the unit is defective. Replacement as a unit is the only answer. Check to be sure the return spring is flexible and has not become distorted. Check both ends of the spring for signs of damage. Clean the armature shaft and check to be sure the shaft is free of any burrs. If burrs are discovered, they may be removed with crocus cloth. The teeth of the drive gear mesh with the teeth on the flywheel. Therefore, they are subjected to wear each time the cranking motor is operated. The teeth should be carefully inspected for wear or damage. ASSEMBLING PINION GEAR WITH SNAP RING OR NUT 1-Lubricate the splined portion of the armature shaft with 30-weight oil. Next, place the pinion gear return spring onto the armature, with the small diameter of the spring TOWARD the end frame. Insert the first turn of the small end of the spring into the groove of the shaft next to the end frame. Hook the tip end of the spring into the hole at the bottom of the groove. 2-Hold the spring out of the way in its free position while the pinion gear is threaded onto the shaft in its fully disengaged position. TAKE CARE not to distort the spring. Wind the free end of the spring just 3/lt turn, and then hook it into the nearest of the four holes provided in the backing plate. Check to be sure the spring is securely hooked into the hole. 3-Slide the pinion stop collar onto the shaft, with the cupped surface facing AWAY from the pinion gear. Install the snap ring into the groove at the end of the shaft. 4-Use a pair of pliers and squeeze the snap ring to fit it into the groove properly. Position the pinion stop collar next to the snap ring, and then install a washer next to the other side of the snap ring • GOOD WORDS: Use two pair of pliers, one on each side of the shaft, to grip the Lower end of the drive gear and return spring. The spring should appear as the one shown, without any distortion. CRANKING CIRCUIT SERVICE 7-3 1 sNAP RING TYPE Install the cranking motor onto the powstop collar and the washer. The stop collar MUST rotate freely when the assembllng work is complete. 5-If a nut is used instead of the snap ring, start a NEW nut onto the armature shaft. DO NOT attempt to use a nut that has been removed. Move the drive gear upward, and then clamp a pair of vise grip pllers on the drive gear. Hold the nut on top of the armature with a socket wrench. Now, hold the gear with the vise grip pliers and at the same time tighten the nut with the wrench. 6-Rotate the pinion gear against the pinion stop and relieve any turns of the spring which may be overlapping other turns. If the spring is assembled properly, the pinion gear should snap back from the engaged position. erhead. Install the cranking motor solenoid. Connect the yellow cable to the cranking motor terminal. Connect the battery cable to the battery. Install the front cowl cover and the wrap-around cowl, if one is used. DISASSEMBLING PINION GEAR WITH TOP SPRING This type cranking motor uses a top spring to push the pinion gear down. 1-Move the pinion gear upward and place a wrench on the bottom side of the gear. Now, place a second wrench on the top nut. Hold firm with the first wrench and with the other wrench, back-off the nut. Remove and DISCARD the nut. Do not attempt to use the same nut a second time. 2-Remove the spring collar, spring, and pinion gear. If other work is to be performed on the cranking motor, proceed directly to the cranking motor repair section of this chapter. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Inspect the pinion gear teeth for chips, cracks, or a broken tooth. Check the splines inside the pinion gear for burrs and to be sure the gear moves freely on the armature shaft. BAD NEWS This type cranking motor pm10n gear assembly cannot be repaired if the unit is defective. Replacement as a complete unit is the only answer. Clean the armature shaft and check to be sure the shaft is free of any burrs. If burrs are discovered, they may be removed with crocus cloth. ASSEMBLING PINION GEAR WITH TOP SPRING 1-Slide the pinion gear onto the armature shaft, then the spring and the spring collar. Start a NEW nut onto the armature shaft. 2-Place a wrench on the bottom side of the pinion gear and a second wrench on the nut. Hold firm with the first wrench and tighten the nut with the second wrench. 7-13 CRANKING MOTOR REPAIR GOOD NEWS If the only motor repair necessary is replacement of the brushes, the pinion gear does not have to be removed. All cranking motors have thru-bol ts securing the upper and lower cap to the field frame assembly. In all cases both caps have some type of mark or boss. These marks are used to properly align the caps with the field frame assembly. 1-Observe the caps and find the identifying mark or boss on each. If the marks are not visible, make an identifying mark prior to removing the thru-bol ts as an essential aid during assembling. HARK CD CRANKING MOTOR SERVICE 7-33 DISASSEMBLING 2-Remove the thru-bol ts. On some models, the thru-bolts thread into the opposite cap, and on other models, a nut is used. 3-Remove the lower cap. On the Bosch motor, the brushes are mounted into the lower cap. 4-On the Delco Remy cranking motor, the brushes are mounted in the brush plate. 5-Pull on the armature shaft from the drive gear end and remove it from the field frame assembly. 6-Remove the brushes from their holders, and then remove the brush springs. Removing the thru-bolts from the frame assembly of a Bosch cranking motor. The end cap of a Bosch cranking motor showing ' arrangement of the positive and negative brushes. Using a hacksaw blade to check a Delco Remy armature on a growler, as explained in the text. TESTING CRANKING MOTOR PARTS SPECIAL WORDS Most marine shops and all electrical motor rebuild shops will test an armature for a modest charge. If the armature has a short, it MUST be replaced. Check the armature for a short circuit by placing it on a growler and holding a hack saw blade over the armature core while the CORRECT INCORRECT Comparison of armature segments properly cleaned aeft) and improperly cleaned (right). armature is rotated. If the saw blade vibrates, the armature is shorted. Clean between the armature bars, and then check again on the growler. If the saw blade still vibrates, the armature must be replaced. Occasionally carbon dust from the brushes will short the armature. Therefore, blow the slots in the armature clean with compressed air. Make contact with one probe of the test light on the armature core or shaft. Make contact with the other probe on the commutator. If the light comes on, the armature is grounded and must be replaced. Turning the Commutator True the commutator, if necessary, in a lathe. NEVER undercut the mica because the brushes are harder than the insulation. Undercut the insulation between the commutator bars 1/32" (0.80mm) to the full width of the insulation and flat at the bottom. A triangular groove is not satisfactory. After the under-cutting work is completed, clean out the slots carefully to remove dirt and copper dust. Sand the commutator lightly with No. 00 sandpaper to remove any burrs left from the undercutt- Using a hacksaw blade to check the armature of a Checking Bosch cranking motor armature to be sure Bosch cranking motor armature on a growler. If the there is NO continuity between the armature core and hacksaw blade vibrates the armature has a short. the armature shaft. CRANKING MOTOR SERVICE 7-35 Checking for NO continuity between the armature core and the commutator. ing. Test light probes placed on any two commutator bars should light and indicate continuity. Check the armature a second time on the growler for possible short circuits. Positive Brushes Obtain an ohmmeter. Connect each lead of the meter to the positive brushes. The ohmmeter MUST indicate continuity between the brushes. If the meter indicates any resistance, check the lead to the brush Checking the positive brushes on the end cap of a Bosch cranking motor. One test lead is connected to the positive terminal of the cap; the other lead is alternately touched to the positive brushes. Continuity must be indicated. and the lead to the positive terminal solder connection. If the connection cannot be repaired, the brushes MUST be replaced. Checking the continuity of the commutator bars on Checking the positive brushes on a Delco Remy a Bosch cranking motor armature. If the test light cranking motor. Each test lead is connected to a leads make contact with any two bars the light should positive brush. Continuity must be indicated between come on to indicate continuity. the brushes. 7-36 ELECTRICAL Checking the field coil and brushes, as explained in the text. Field Coil -Negative Brush Obtain an ohmmeter. Make contact with one lead on the negative brush and make contact with the other lead on the starter frame. If the meter does not indicate continuity, the field coils are open and MUST be replaced. Move the test lead from the negative brush to the other negative brush lead and again check for continuity. If the meter does not indicate continuity, the field coils are open and MUST be replaced. After the field coil and brush assembly has been installed into the frame, the frame and field assembly should be carefully Brush holder plate and springs of a Delco Remy cranking motor. The springs must all be the same height, have the same amount of tension, and show no sign of overheating. A blueish color indicates the spring has overheated. checked to be sure none of the soldered connections are touching the frame. The fields would be grounded if the connections make contact with the frame. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Clean the field coils, armature, commutator, armature shaft, brush-end plate and drive-end housing with a brush or compressed air. Wash all other parts in solvent and blow them dry with compressed air. Inspect the insulation and the unsoldered connections of the armature windings for breaks or burns. Perform electrical tests on any suspected defective part, according to the procedures outlined in Section 7-12. Check the commutator for run-out. Inspect the armature shaft and both bearings for scoring. Turn the commutator in a lathe if it is out-of-round by more than 0.005" (0.1 3mm). Check the springs in the brush holder to be sure none are broken. Check the spring tension and replace if the tension is not 3240 ounces (900-1135 gm). Check the insulated brush holders for shorts to ground. If the brushes are worn down to 1 /4" (6.35mm) or less, they must be replaced. Check the field brush connections and lead insulation. A brush kit and a contact kit are available at your local marine dealer, but all other assemblies must be replaced rather than repaired. The armature, fields, and brush holders must be checked before assembling the starter motor. See the testing section in this chapter for detailed procedures to test the cranking motor. Springs from a Bosch cranking motor. The springs Delco Remy brush holder assembly. The four holdmust all be the same height, have the same amount of ers should be firmly secured to the plate. If any one tension and show no sign of overheating. holder is loose, the assembly must be replaced. CRANKING MOTOR SERVICE 7-37 Brushes -Field Frame Mounted The following procedures apply to brushes mounted to the field frame assembly. First, remove the old set of ground brushes by cutting off the rivets with a chisel or by drilling them out. Replacement brush holder kits are available at marine outlets. These kits are complete with screws, washers, and nuts for attachment to the frame. Replacement brush springs are also available. The brush spring is removed from the holder by compressing one side of the spring with a small screwdriver until the spring flips out of its seat. After the spring pops out, turn the spring clockwise until it is free of the holder. Replacement brush sets are available and usually contain the following parts: Two insulated brushes, with flexible leads attached. Two ground brush holders with brushes and leads attached. Necessary attaching screws, washers, and nuts. Cut off the old brush leads where they are attached to the field coils. Prepare the ends of the coils for soldering the new brush lead assemblies. Clean the ends of the coils by filing or grinding off the old brush lead The positive and negative brushes of a Delco Remy cranking motor. connections. Remove the varnish only as far back as necessary to enable a good soldered connection to be made. Use rosin flux and solder the leads to the BACK SIDES of the coil to prevent any excess solder from rubbing against the armature. Be sure the leads are ln the right position to reach the brush holders. Do not overheat the leads, because the solder will run onto the lead and the lead will loose its flexibility. Example of a questionable end cap removed from a Bosch cranking motor. Note the loose spring escaped from beneath one of the brushes. A unit in this condition must be carefully inspected, cleaned, and worn parts replaced before returning it to service. Checking the field brushes on the end cap of a Bosch cranking motor. One test lead is connected to the frame; the other lead is connected alternately to the brush leads. Continuity must be indicated. 7-38 ELECTRICAL SNAP RING COLLAR CLUTCH • NUT END PLATE SPR ING BUSH ING 0...,.•-----------------WASHER AND FI ELD ASSEMBLY BRUSH PLATE------------..,.@g BUSH ING END .-------WASHER Exploded drawing of a Delco Remy cranking motor with major parts identified. /,,-------....... , CRANKING MOTOR SERVICE 7-39 SNAP RING ?'.. ''-' ' COLLAR THRU-BOLT WASHER POS IT I VE BRUSHES • oo o I BRUSH ------... NUT COLLAR SPRING e-DRIVE GEAR END PLATE Q..-----WASHER ..I ' I I I I I III II I ....I , t 'I ' BRUSH HOLDER---. · I .. ' ,1 I I I \' I '....... _____ ,., "" END Exploded drawing of a Bosch cranking motor with major parts identified. PI N I ON WASHER GEAR I I 7-40 ELECTRICAL THRUST WASHER CUP CUSHION CUSHION .." SP..CER (,.. FRAME & FIELD t WASHER ARMATURE DRIVE END FRAME Exploded drawing of a two-brush Delco Remy cranking motor installed on some early model outboard engines. THRU BOLTS Brushes -Delco Remy The positive leads of the Delco Remy cranking motor are attached to the positive terminal of the motor. The terminal can be slipped out of the field frame assembly. If the positive brushes require replacement, the brushes can be purchased with a new terminal as an assembly. The negative brushes are soldered to the field and can be removed by melting the soldered joint. The lead of the new brush is then soldered to the field terminal. After the negative brushes are installed, slip the positive brush set into the slot of the field assembly and you're home free. Brushes -Bosch Both the positive and negative brushes on a Bosch cranking motor are mounted in the lower cap. The positive brushes are attached to the positive terminal and are sold as an assembled set. The negative brushes are attached to the lower cap with a bolt. To remove the positive brushes, slip the terminal out of the slot in the cap. The negative brushes are removed by simply removing the two bolts attaching the brush lead to the lower cap. Installation of the new positive brushes is accomplished by sliding the new positive terminal into the slot of the end cap. Install End cap of a Bosch cranking motor with the positive and negative brushes properly installed. test operation of the motor, first connect one lead from a set of jumper cables to the positive terminal of a battery. Connect If a special tool cannot be made, the brushes may be wired in place to permit installation of the commutator on a Delco Remy cranking motor. The wire is removed later. 1-13/1611--J/ BEND HERE Rough sketch of a tool to hold the brushes in place while assembling a Delco Remy cranking motor. the negative brushes by positioning them in place in the lower cap, and then securing the leads with the attaching bolts. ASSEMBLING A BOSCH CRANKING MOTOR Clamp the pinion gear in a vise equipped with soft jaws and with the pinion gear down. Insert the brush springs into the brush holders, and then install the brushes in place. Hold the two brushes in the holder and at the same time, lower the field frame assembly down onto the armature. Lower the field frame assembly until the brushes make contact with the commutator. Align the mark on the upper cap with the matching mark on the field frame. Place the washer onto the commutator shaft, then place the cap onto the end of the field frame assembly. Align the mark on the lower cap with the mark on the field frame. Install the thru-bolts and tighten them securely into the opposite end cap or with nuts, depending on the type of starter being serviced. Place the cranking motor on the floor. To ASSEMBLING DELCO REMY 7-41 the other end of the same lead to the positive terminal of the motor. Connect one end of the second lead of the jumper cables to the negative terminal of the bat tery. Now, hold the motor firmly on the floor with one foot, as shown, and at the same time, momentarily make contact with the other end of the second jumper lead to one of the thru-bolts. The pinion gear should spin rapidly. Slide the rubber collars and spacer onto the starter, if they are used. Install the cranking motor onto the engine and secure it in place with the clamps and mounting bolts. Check to be sure the Black ground cable is attached with the lower mounting bolt. Connect the Black ground cable to the negative (-) cranking motor terminal and the Yellow cable to the positive (+) terminal. Install the front cowl cover and the wrap around cowl, if one is used. Connect the positive (+) lead to the battery terminal. ASSEMBLING A DELCO REMY CRANKING MOTOR 1-Clamp the pinion gear in a vise equipped with soft jaws and with the drive gear down. Slide the positive terminal with the brushes attached, into the slot of the field frame assembly. Place the brush holder plate in position with the field leads and the positive brush lead inserted through the terminal holes. ADVICE: Work one brush at-a-time. 2-Place the brush spring into the brush holder, and then install the brush. Use the 7-42 ELECTRICAL spiral tool, as shown, or tie each brush with wire to hold it down inside the holder. Now, repeat the procedure with the other brushes. 3-Lower the field frame assembly over the armature. Continue to lower the assembly until the brushes are over the cornmutator. Align the field frame assembly mark with the mark on the upper cap. 4-Remove the spiral brush holder or the wire tie used to hold the brushes in place. Install the washer on the armature. 5-Position the end cap onto the field frame with the dowel pins indexed into the holes of the brush holder. 6-Install the thru-bolts and tighten them securely. 7-Place the cranking motor on the floor. To test operation of the motor, first connect one lead from a set of jumper cables to the positive terminal of a battery. Connect the other end of the same lead to the positive terminal of the motor. Connect one end of the second lead of the jumper cables to the negative terminal of the battery. Now, hold the motor firmly on the floor with one foot, as shown, and at the same time, momentarily make contact with the other end of the second jumper lead to one of the thru-bol ts. The pinion gear should spin rapidly. Slide the rubber collars and spacer onto the starter, if they are used. Install the cranking motor onto the engine and secure it in place with the clamps and mounting bolts. Check to be sure the Black ground cable is attached with the lower mounting bolt. Connect the Black ground cable to the negative (-) cranking motor terminal and the Yellow cable to the positive (+) terminal. Install the front cowl cover and the wraparound cowl, if one is used. Connect the positive (+) lead to the battery terminal. ASSEMBLING BOSCH WITH TOOL 7-43 Assembling a Bosch Using Special Tool 3-Position the lower end cap onto the Make a tool as shown in the accompanying illustration to prevent the brushes from being damaged during installation of the commutator end cap. If a special tool is not possible, see the next section, Assembling a Bosch Cranking Motor Without a Special Tool. 1-Slide the brush springs into the brush holders, and then install the positive and negative leads. Position the special tool over the cap and brushes to hold the brushes in place. 2-Clamp the drive gear in a vise equipped with soft jaws and with the drive gear down. Lower the frame assembly over the armature. Align the marks on the frame assembly with the marks on the upper end cap. frame assembly. Lower the cap as far as it will go, and then remove the special tool. Now, align the mark on the cap with the mark on the frame, and then install the thru-bol ts and tighten them securely. SPEC IAL TOOL Special tool required to install the end cap on a Bosch starter motor. If this tool is not available, special instructions and an illustration are included later in this section. 90-DEGREE BEND IIII 211 IIIIII IIIIIIIII 3/411 3/411.---211 ---++--15/1611-f-.----- Working diagram for making a special tool to hold the brushes in place during installation of a Bosch end cap. 4-Place the cranking motor on the floor. To test operation of the motor, first connect one lead from a set of jumper cables to the positive terminal of a battery. Connect the other end of the same lead to the positive terminal of the motor. Connect one end of the second lead of the jumper cables to the negative terminal of the battery. Now, hold the motor firm! y on the floor with one foot, as shown, and at the same time, momentarily make contact with the other end of the second jumper lead to the cranking motor case. The pinion gear should spin rapidly. Slide the rubber collars and spacer onto the starter, if they are used. Install the cranking motor onto the engine and secure it in place with the clamps and mounting bolts. Check to be sure the Black ground cable is attached with the lower mounting bolt. Connect the Black ground cable to the negative (-) cranking motor terminal and the HARKS Ali GNED 0 Yellow cable to the positive (+) terminal. ASSEMBLING BOSCH W /0 TOOL 7-45 Install the front cowl cover and the wraparound cowl, if one is used. Connect the positive (+) lead to the battery terminal. Assembling Bosch Cranking Motor Without Special Tool I-Install the brush springs into the brush holder, and then place each brush on top of the springs. Lay the end cap on the bench with the brushes facing up. Pickup the armature and place the commutator on top of the brushes. Lower the armature and at the same time, work each brush into its holder. Continue to lower the armature until the full weight of the armature is on the brushes. 2-Now, very CAREFULLY lower the frame assembly down over the armature. TAKE CARE because the magnets in the frame assembly will tend to pull against the armature. 3-When the frame makes contact with the lower cap, align the marks on the cap and the frame. 4-Slide the upper cap washer onto the shaft. 5-Install the upper cap with the mark on the cap aligned with the mark on the frame. 6-Install the thru-bolts and tighten them securely. Install the pinion gear and secure it in place with a new locknut. 7Place the cranking motor on the floor. To test operation of the motor, first connect one lead from a set of jumper cables to the positive terminal of a battery. Connect the other end of the same lead to the positive terminal of the motor. Connect 7-46 ELECTRICAL one end of the second lead of the jumper cables to the negative terminal of the battery. Now, hold the motor firmly on the floor with one foot, as shown, and at the same time, momentarily make contact with the other end of the second jumper lead to the case. The pinion gear should spin rapidly. Slide the rubber collars and spacer onto the starter, if they are used. Install the A rebuilt cranking motor installed on the powerhead. If the work has been properly executed, as described in the text, the motor will give years of trouble-free service. cranking motor onto the powerhead and secure it in place with the clamps and mounting bolts. Check to be sure the Black ground cable is attached with the lower mounting bolt. Connect the Black ground cable to the negative (-) cranking motor terminal and the Yellow cable to the positive (+) terminal. Install the front cowl cover and the wrap-around cowl, if one is used. Connect the positive (+) lead to the battery terminal. ASSEMBLING A PRESTOLITE CRANKING MOTOR 1-Check to be sure the brush leads are properly connected. The positive brushes have insulated jackets and the negative brush leads do not. The positive leads are soldered to the field windings, and the negative leads are soldered to the plate assembly. GOOD WORDS Detailed instructions for installation of the brushes are included in the brush replacement kit. Assemble the various parts of the stud in the sequence as indicated in the exploded drawing on Page 7-47. After the stud parts have been assembled, check to be sure the stud is properly insulated from the cranking motor housing. Insulation may be verified with an Ohmmeter. Make contact with one lead of the ohmmeter to the stud and the other lead to an unpainted surface of the housing. The meter should indicate NO continuity. 2-Insert the brush plate assembly into the cranking motor housing. Feed the brushes through the proper opening with each spring snaped against the back of the brush. Check to be sure the wiring is routed as shown in the accompanying illustration and the insulated leads of the positive brushes protect the lead from making contact with any part of the frame or the negative leads. Connect the shunt field Green wire to the brush plate. Secure the plate with the three attaching screws and lockwashers. CRITICAL WORDS Do not overlubricate the items mentioned in the next step. ASSEMBLING PRESTOLITE 7-4 7 BUSHING -B --ARMATURE ..----PLASTIC WASHER 8-BUSHING LOCKWASHER --THRU BOLT END CAP Exploded drawing of a heavy duty Prestolite cranking motor, used on the larger horsepower powerheads covered in this manual. Major parts are identified. 7-48 ELECTRICAL The cranking motor installed on the larger horsepower powerheads is a much heavier duty unit than those installed on intermediate size powerheads covered in this manual. Service procedures are almost identical to the other cranking motors covered in this chapter with the exception of the brush plate (left), and the method of holding the brushes back while the armature is installed (right). Push each brush back and hold it in the retracted position by slipping a small screw, as shown, between the plate and the brush. Do not forget to remove the screws after the armature is in place. 3-Lubricate the bushing in each end cap with just a DROP of SAE lOW oil or equivalent. Apply just a DROP of oil onto the helical threads of the armature shaft. 4-Assemble the bendix drive assembly and the pinion stop assembly onto the armature shaft in the sequence shown in the exploded drawing on Page 7-47. Check to be sure the shoulder washer is installed with the shoulder facing TOWARDS the motor. 5-Obtain four small screws of convenient size. Push the each brush back flush with its holder, and then insert one screw in front of the spring and behind the plate. The screw will hold the brush in the retract- BRUSH ed position while the armature is being installed. DO NOT forget to remove the four screws after the armature is in place. Insert the armature through the housing with the shaft extending up through the brush plate assembly. REMOVE the four screws holding the brushes in the retracted position. 6-Slide the plastic washer onto the shaft. Install the upper and lower end caps. Slip a lockwasher onto each thru-bolt, and then feed the thru-bol ts through the lower end cap, the housing, and into the upper end cap. Tighten the thru-bol ts securely. 8 REMOTE CONTROLS 8-1 INTRODUCTION Boat accessories are seldom obtained from the original equipment manufacturer. Shift boxes, steering arrangements, bilge pumps, blowers, and other similar equipment may be added by the boat manufacturer. Because of the wide assortment, styles, and price ranges of such accessories, the boat manufacturer, or customer, has a wide selection from which to draw, when outfitting the boat. Therefore, the procedures and suggestions in this chapter are general in nature in order to cover as many units as possible, but still specific and in enough detail to allow troubleshooting repair, and adjustment of these accessories for maximum comfort, performance and safety. 8-2 STEERING SYSTEMS Would you believe: Probably 90% of steering cable problems are directly caused by the system not being operated, just sitting idle during the off-season. Without movement, all steering cables have a tendency to "freeze". Would you also believe: Service shops report almost 50% of boat cables are replaced every year, due to lack of movement. Therefore, during off-season when the boat is laid up in a yard, or on a trailer alongside the house, take time to go aboard and operate the steering wheel from hard-over to hard-over several times. Service procedures for the steering system are divided into two major section according to the type of system installed. Instructions for working on the Directional Indicator are given in Section 8-3. The °° Rotary Steering with 90 , 20 and Tilt Wheel Mount procedures are outlined in Section 8-4-. These sections provide step-by-step detailed instructions for the complete disassembly, cleaning and inspection, and assembly of each system. Disassembly may be stopped at any point desired and the assembly process begun at that point. However, for best results and maximum performance, the entire system should be serviced if any one part is disassembled for repair. Non-use is the greatest enemy of the remote control system. The steering mechanism should be operated at regular intervals during the "off-season" to ensure all parts will function properly when the boat is again ready for service on the water. 8-2 REMOTE CONTROLS GOOD WORDS If the control cable has a "Zerk" fitting at the engine end, the cable MUST be retracted, then the fitting lubricated with Quicksilver Multi-Purpose lubricant or Quicksilver 2-4C Lubricant. C-Equals the distance, in inches (or em), from the centerline of the steering wheel hub to the side (inside) of the boat. This measurement is taken in the same manner for a right-hand or left-hand installation. Now, add boat measurements A, B, and Subtract 30" (76.2 em), for a Standard STEERING CHECKS The steering systern may be checked by performing a few very simple tests. First, move the steering wheel from hard-over to hard-over port and starboard several tirnes. The outboard unit should move without any sign of stiffness. If binding or stiffness is encountered, the cause may be a defect in the swivel bearing. Next, remove the steering bolt at the outboard unit, and again turn the steering wheel back-and-forth from hard-over to hard-over port and starboard several times. If there is any sign of stiffness, it is proof the problem is with the cables. They may be corroded or there may be a defect in the steering mechanism. To determine the proper cable length for the Standard Ride Guide or for the Universal Ride Guide, a few measurements plus some simple arithmetic will provide the correct answer. Refer to the accompanying illustration for the letter measurement identification as follows: A-Equals the distance, in inches (or em), from the Ride Guide attachment on the outboard unit to the side (inside) of the boat. 8-Equals distance, in inches (or em), from the inside rear of the boat to the control panel. a...:.-.... .... .... .... Drawing indicating the three dimensions required to accurately determine the proper length of steering cables needed for any boat. The letter designations given are standard and are mentioned and explained in the text. Ride Guide installation. or Subtract 39" (99.1 em), for a Universal Ride Guide installation. This subtraction allows for 12" (30.5 em), radii at each cable bend. Divide by 12 for the length in feet. The answer is the cable length or as sembly suffix number for the proper instalation on your boat. 8-3 DIRECTIONAL INDICATOR SYSTEM SERVICE DISASSEMBLING To assist you in performing the work, the items mentioned in the following steps are keyed by number with those shown in the accompanying exploded drawing. This method of presentation will help you to see the relationship of the various items as parts are removed and installed. 1-Pry the center button (2) from the steering wheel (1). 2-Use a 7/16" socket to remove the bolt (8), lockwasher (9) and washer (10), from the inside hub (4). 3-Remove the hub (4) from inside the center of the steering wheel • 4-Remove the bushing (5) from inside the hub • .5-Hold the steering wheel from turning, and at the same time remove the nylon or plastic stop nut (30) and washer (29) from the bottom end of the steering wheel center bolt (12). 6-Lift the steering wheel and center bolt off of the steering shaft (16). 7-Remove the directional indicator nylon pinion shaft (1 1) from inside the steering wheel. 8-Remove the nut (35), bolt (32), and spacer (33) from the gear rack to steering mount bracket (14). DIRECTIONAL INDICATOR 8-3 ®- ® 1 -Steering Wheel 2-Button 3-Cap 4-Hub 5-Bushing 6-Decal 7-Screw 8-Screw 9 -Lockwasher 10 : Washer 11 -Pinion Shaft 12-Bolt 13 -Bushing 14 -Bracket (20 ° or 90 ° ) 15 -Insignia 16 -Shaft (20 ° or goo) 17-Washer 18 -Bushing 19 -Gear Rack Housing 20 -Gear Rack 21 -Tube (Cable End) 22 -Tube (Open End ) 23 -Rubber Cap 24 -Gear Rack Pinion 25 -Screw 26 -Screw 27 -Nut 28 -Nut 29 -Washer 30 -Nut 31 -Gear Rack Housing Bracket (20°) 31A -Gear Rack Housing Bracket (900) 32 -Screw 33 -Spacer 34 -Washer 35 -Nut 36-Screw 40 -Stud 37 -Spacer 41 -Stud 38-Washer 42 -Washer 39-Nut 43-Nut Exploded view of the directional indicator system with all major parts identified. 8-4 REMOTE CONTROLS 9-Remove the gear rack assembly (31) from the steering mount (14). 10-Slide the rubber cap (23) from the end of the tube (22), and then move the transom end of the cable to bottom-out the inner core cable out of the way. Remove the cotter pin from the locking cap, and then remove the locking cap, if one is installed. Remove the jamnut and the retainer nut. 11-Loosen the steering cable to gear rack jamnut, and then turn the gear rack off the steering cable. 12-Remove the pinion gear bushings (18) from the gear rack housing bracket (31 ). 13-Remove the upper and lower steering shaft bushings (13) from the steering mount (14). 14-Remove the six nuts (27) and bolts (25) securing the two halves of the gear rack housing ( 19) together. 15-Separate the gear rack housing halves and remove the tubes (21) and (22) from the housings. Slide the tubes off the rack gear (20). CLEANING AND INSPECTING Clean all parts with solvent, and then dry them thoroughly with compressed air. Inspect the steering shaft, pinion gear, rack gear and the rack gear tubes for wear and/or galled surfaces. Inspect all of the bushings for excessive wear and/or cracks. Replace any defective or worn parts. ASSEMBLING FIRST, THESE WORDS Nylon locknuts may not be used more than twice, three times at the most before they lose their locking ability. If the locking ability of the nylon locknut is questionable, replace it with a new one. NEVER use worn-out locknuts or non-locking nuts. 1-Apply a liberal coating of Universal Joint Lubricant or equivalent to the inside of the rack tubes (21) and (22), and to the rack gear (20). 2-Place the end of the rack gear (20), with the smaller diameter hole, into the rack tube (22) which has the open end. 3-Place the rack tube (21), which has the threaded hole for the steering cable, over the other end of the rack gear (20). 4-Position the rack gear with the tubes into the center housing (19), with the groove in the bottom of the rack gear over the stop in the center housing. TAKE CARE to be sure the rack tubes are properly seated into the grooves in the center housing. 5-Mate the other half of the center housing over the rack tubes, and then secure the two halves with the six bolts (25) and nuts (27). Tighten the nuts to a torque value of 70 in. lbs (7 .91 Nm). 6-Lubricate the outer surfaces of the two pinion gear bushings (18) with Universal Joint Lubricant, or equivalent, and then install the bushings into the pinion openings in the gear rack assembly (19). 7-Install the pinion gear (24) into the gear rack assembly with the steering shaft (16) spline (smaller diameter spline) toward the steering mount 04). 8-Thread the gear rack assembly onto the steering cable. NEVER thread the steering cable into the gear rack. ALWAYS thread the gear rack all the way onto the steering cable to prevent the cable housing from winding up and causing hard steering. 9-Push the transom end of the steering cable inward to bottom-out the inner core cable. 10-Clean any grease from the inner core cable threaded area which is exposed beyond the rack gear. 11-Thread the cable retainer nut onto the inner core cable, and then tighten it to a torque value of 90 in. lbs (10.2 Nm). Install the second nut and tighten it securely, but not OVER 90 in. lbs (1 0.2 Nm). Install the locking cap over the cable core nuts, and then install the cotter pin, if the installation is equipped for one. Install the rubber cap (23) onto the end of the tube (22). 12-Move the transom end of the steering cable in and out several times to ensure there is no binding in the rack assembly. 13-If the steering cable is attached to the engine, move the unit to the dead-ahead position. Install a large ID washer (17) over the pinion gear steering mount side. 14-Lubricate the steering shaft bushings (13) with Universal Joint Lubricant, and then install the bushings into the steering mount (14). 15-Place the gear rack assembly (19) in position behind the steering mount (14) and secure it with the 3/8" bolt (32), spacer (33), and nut (35). DO NOT tighten the nut at this time. 16-Insert the steering shaft (16) into the ROTARY SlEERING 8-5 steering mount (14). Rotate the shaft until the one flat, tapered portion flat side, is horizontal. This position will reference the steering shaft and the steering wheel spoke correctly when the boat is moving deadahead. 17-Tighten the 3/8" diameter bolt (32) to a torque value of 25 ft lbs (34.0 Nm). 18-Lubricate the directional indicator pinion gear (1 1) with Universal Joint Lubricant, or equivalent, and then install the gear into the steering wheel (l) with the letter "F" toward the helmsman's position. 19-Slide the steering wheel over the steering shaft (16) with the spokes of the wheel in the horizontal position. Install the center bolt (12) through the steering wheel, shaft and pinion gear. Secure the center bolt with washer (29) and nylon stop nut (30). 20-Tighten the center bolt retainer nut to a torque value of 80 in. lbs (9.0 Nm). Tighten the steering cable to gear rack jamnut to a torque value of 30 ft lbs (40.8 Nm). 21-Lubricate the indicator hub bushing (5) with Universal Joint Lubricant, or equivalent, and then install the bushing into the center of the steering wheel. Place the hub (4) into the center of the steering wheel and turn it to engage the gear teeth on the hub with the teeth on the pinion gear. 8-4 ROTARY STEERING SERVICE These sections provide step-by-step detailed instructions for the complete disassembly, cleaning and inspection, and assembly of the rotary steering system. Disassembly may be stopped at any point desired and the assembly process begun at that point. However, for best results and maximum performance, the entire system should be serviced if any one part is disassembled for repair. Steering Check: The steering system may be checked by moving the steering lever back-and-forth from hard-over to hard-over several times. The engine should move without any sign of stiffness. If binding or stiffness is encountered the cause may be defective bearings in the swivel bearing. The steering cable may be checked by first disconnecting the steering cable at the engine, and then turning the steering wheel back and forth from hard-over to hard-over several times. If there is any sign of stiffness, the cables may be corroded or there may be a defect in the steering mechanism. DISASSEMBLING To assist you in performing the work, the items mentioned in the following steps are keyed by number with those shown in the accompanying exploded drawing. This method of presentation will help you to see the relationship of the various items as parts are removed and installed. 1-Pry the trim cap out from the center of the steering wheel. 2-Remove the center bolt (4) retainer nut (33), and large OD washer (32), and then lift off the steering wheel and center bolt. 3-Remove the two 3/8" nuts (12) and washers (1 1) securing the steering control housing (42) to the steering mount (1). Remove the steering control housing from the mounting bolts. 4-Remove the steering shaft (23) and steering pinion gear (31) from the steering control housing. 5-Remove the two bolts (43) and (44) and the washers (45) holding the housing halves together. 6-Separate the steering control housing halves (38) and (42) by prying them apart with a thin blade screwdriver. 7-Remove the steering cable anchor from the recess in the steering control housing. If necessary, tap LIGHTLY with a mallet to loosen the cable from the housing. Work the cable loose, NEVER use force. 8-Lift the ring gear (40) out of the steering control housing (42). 9-Using a thin blade screwdriver, disengage the inner core cable hook (34) from the ring gear (40). 10-Remove the nylon center shaft bushing (39) from the steering control housing hub (38) or from inside the ring gear (40). CLEANING AND INSPECTING Clean all parts with solvent, and then dry them thoroughly with compressed air. NEVER allow the nylon liner (41) or bushings to remain submerged in solvent for any length of time, because the liquid will cause them to expand. I o IIII 0.--- IIIIIIIIIIII ,. .... .., I II IIIIII 1 -Steering Wheel Mounting Post 2 -Trim Strip 3-Nylon Bushing 4-Bolt 5-Tilt Post Mounting Housing 6-!crew 7-Nut 8 -Nylon Bushing 9-Quad Ring 10 -Stud 11 -Washer 12 -Nut 13 -Tilt Adjusting Lever 14-Tilt Adjusting Lever Pin 15 -Tilt Adjusting Lever Housing 16 -Tilt Adjusting Lever Detent Pin 17 -Detent Pin Tension Spring 18 -Welch Plug 19 -Screw 20 -Screw 21 -Spacer 22 -Tension Spring 23 -Steering Wheel Shaft 24 -Washer25-Adaptor 26 -Screw 27 -Washer 28 -Nut IIII 29 -Screw 30-Ny lon Bushing 31 -Steering Pinion 32-Walher I CDf-------.. Ill I I ._ ___________, 33 -Nut Exploded drawing of the rotary ride-guide type steering mechanism with major parts of the steering helm identified. Inspect the housing halves for dents, cracked casting, or other damage. Check the nylon liner and bushings for cracks, broken pieces and wear. Inspect the steering pinion gear and the ring gear teeth for wear. Replace any parts that show signs of excessive wear or damage. ASSEMBLING FIRST THIS WORD: Nylon locknuts may not be used more than twice, three times at the most before they lose their locking ability. If the locking ability of the nylon locknut is questionable, replace it with a new one. NEVER use worn-out locknuts or non-locking nuts. 1-Grasp the ring gear (40) with the gear teeth toward the left side. Install the inner core cable hook (34) into the retainer hole in the ring gear (40) with the steering cable 0· ----------------... 0 1----® 0 --------@ ROTARY STEERING 8-7 extended toward the left (counterclockwise). If necessary, tap LIGHTLY on the inner core cable hook to seat the inner core cable into the ring gear recess. 2-Wrap the inner core cable approximately 1/2 turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE around the ring gear. 3-Secure the inner core cable using Cable Retainer Tool C-91-54175. 4-Lubricate the teeth of the ring gear (40), the nylon liner (41), bushing (39), and the housing halves (38) and (42) with Universal Joint Lubricant, or equivalent. 5-Install the center hub bushing (39) into the center hub of the steering control housing (38). Place the nylon liner (41) over the inner core cable (34 ). 6-Place the ring gear (40) squarely onto the starboard steering control housing (42). Remove the cable retainer tool. 7-Place the cable housing into the starboard steering control housing (42). 8-Place the other half, the port steering control housing (38), over the assembled starboard steering housing and secure them together with the two bolts (43) and (44), washers (45), and nuts (46). Tighten the nuts to a torque value of 10 ft lbs (13.6) Nm). SPACER SLE\ 9-Move the transom end of the steering cable in and out several times to ensure there is no binding in the steering cable or in the steering control housing. 10-Lubricate the nylon pinion gear bushing (30) with Universal Joint Lubricant, or equivalent, and then insert the bushing into the pinion gear openings. 11-Position the steering control housing with the correct side toward the steering mount (1) and install the pinion gear (31) into the pinion opening with the steering post spline (smaller end) toward the steering mount. 12-Install the steering control housing over the adaptor bolts (26) and secure the head with the washers (27) and nylon stop nuts (28). DO NOT tighten the nuts at this time. 13-Lubricate the nylon steering shaft bushing (3) with Universal Joint Lubricant, or equivalent, and then install the bushing into the steering mount (1). 14-Attach the steering cable to the engine. 15-Move the engine to the dead-ahead position. 16-Slide the steering wheel shaft (23) I I NYLON STEERING CONTROL LINER HOUS ING --PORT 0 .,. 0 STEER ING CONTROL CABLE HOUS I --STBD GREASE · FITTING NYLON BUSHING RING GEAR SPLINED TYPE HOUS ING (LATER MODEL) Exploded drawing of the rotary ride-guide cable and drum parts, with a detail of the later model spline-type housing. into the steering mount (1) with one flat of the squared end in the horizontal position. 17-After the steering wheel shaft has been indexed as described in the previous step, hold the pinion gear {3 1) in position with one hand, and with the other hand engage the steering wheel shaft (23) with the pinion gear spline (31 ). 18-Observe the steering wheel from the back side. Notice the recess (square opening) in the steering mount (1) has one flat side above the spoke in the steering wheel. Now, with the parts aligned as described in steps 15 through 17, install the steering wheel to the steering shaft (23) with the flat areas aligned. 19-Install the center thru-bolt (4) thru the steering wheel, the shaft, and the pinion gear. 20-Place the large OD washer (32) over the center through-bolt against the pinion gear (31), and then thread the nylon stop nut (33) onto the center bolt. 21-Tighten the steering assembly retainer bolts (26), started in Step 12, to a torque value of 25 ft lbs (33.9 Nm), if working on a non-splined cable head as shown in the accompanying illustration, or to 12 ft lbs (34.0 Nm), if working on a splined cable head as shown in the small insert in the illustration. 22-Tighten the steering wheel center thru-bolt (4} to 8 in. lbs (0.9 Nm), and then install the cotter pin in the bolt. 23-Rotate the steering wheel from hardover to hard-over several times and check to be sure there is no evidence of binding in the steering cable, steering control housing or in the steering mount. 24-Place the engine in the dead-ahead position, and then install the trim cap in the center of the steering wheel. 25-Make a final check to ensure the boat will turn to port when the wheel is rotated to port and turn to starboard when the wheel is rotated to starboard. 3-5 STANDARD RIDE GUIDE KIT Steering kits are available from the local marine dealer to convert a boat from engine tiller steering to a wheel arrangement on a control panel. Most of the hardware required for the complete installation is included in the kit. To determine the size Standard Ride Guide kit necessary for the boat to be converted, refer to Section 8-4. An illustration and the simple arithmetic involved are outlined in detail. 8-6 CUSTOM RIDE GUIDE KITS Custom kits are available for a wide range of outboard models. The kits differ according to the model year, and wether the unit is electric or manual start. Special kits are available for dual outboard installations. In addition to all the parts necessary for an installation, complete detailed instructions are included along with a practical maintenance schedule. 8-7 MERCONTROL PANEL SERVICE EARLY MODEL UNITS FIRST, THESE WORDS: Satisfactory operation of the shift arrangement can only be obtained by adhering to the following points: a-Use only cables C-34555A with the Mercontrol shift box. b-Install only a cable of the correct length. If the cable is too long or too short, the shift and throttle operation will be stiff and difficult. c-Keep bends to a minimum and of not less than 12" (30.5 em) radius. d-Install the cable, using the shortest practical route to the engine. DISASSEMBLING 1-Remove the shift release button in the center of the shift handle. This is accomplished by pushing with your finger, and at the same time turning the button COUNTERCLOCKWISE. EARLY MERCONTROL 8-9 0---- " - 1 -Housing 2-Screw 3-Cover 4 -Cotter Pin 5-Nylon Bushing 6-Shift Lever 7-Screw 8 -Washer 9-Pin 10 -Cam Roller 11 -Washer 12 -Nut 13 -Roller Guide 14 -Pin 15 -Pin 16 -Pin 17 -Nylon Bushing 18 -Shift Cam 19 -Neutral Detent Pin Assembly 20 -Fastener 21 -Spring 22 -Shaft Assembly 23 -Throttle Cam 24 -Set Screw 25 -Nylon Bushing 26 -Housing 27 -Nylon Bushing 28 -Throttle Lever 29-Screw ®----- 30 -Retaining Washer 31 -Pin 32 -Cam Roller 33 -Washer 34 -Nut 35 -Roller Guide 36 -Pin 37 -Pin 38 -Pin 39 -Cover 40 -Bezel 41 -Screw 42 -Lockwasher 43 -Control Handle 44 -Set Screw 45 -Button 46 -Handle Grio 47 -Screw 48 -Safety Switch Assembly 49 -Tab Receptacle 50 -Screw Exploded view of the remote control shift box that is mounted behind the panel with only the shift handle exposed. 2Use an Allen wrench and back out SHIFT AND THROTTLE CABLE REPLACEMENT the screw on the bottom side of the shift handle. Remove the shift handle. 3-Remove the three screws securing the bezel and control to the panel, and at the same time, hold onto the shift box behind the panel. After the screws are out, remove the shift box from the panel. GOOD NEWS: It is not necessary to disassemble the control housing in order to install new control cables. The following cable replacement procedure is identical for a port or starboard control installation. EARLY MERCONTROL 8-1 1 4-Remove the cotter pin and the cover. 5-Place the handle onto the splined shaft, then move the handle approximately 4-5° TOWARD the reverse position and remove the handle. The shift and throttle levers are now positioned to permit removal and installation of the control cables. 6-Remove the hair pin clips. The hair clips may be held on the back side of the pins. If necessary, work the pin around, and then remove the hair pin clips. 7-Insert a small bolt into the pin, and then use a twisting motion to pull the pin from the shift box. Remove the bolt. 8-Work the cable end out of the lever by pushing backward on the entire cable. Lift the cable assembly from the shift box. ASSEMBLING I-Position the new cables into the shift box. TAKE NOTE: The port control throttle cable is on the side furthest from the control handle. The starboard throttle cable is on the side nearest the control handle. 2-Observe how one end of the pin is smaller then the other and notice the groove in the pin. The small end of the pin must be installed into the lever, as shown. The groove is provided to retain the hair clip. Now, place a bolt into the pin, and then install the pin into the lever and through the end of the inner cable end. Remove the bolt. 3-Place the hair pin between the lever and inner cable end. It may be necessary to push down on the inner cable to allow the hair pin to slide between the cable end and the lever. REMOTE CONTROlS 4-Install the cover and cotter pin in the control housing. CONTROL BOX INSTALLATION 5-Check to be sure the control lever is in the NEUTRAL position. Position the shift box behind the side panel. Insert the shift shaft through the hole in the panel. Slide the bezel over the shift shaft and align the screw holes. Secure the assembly in place with the three a ttachlng screws through the bezel and into the shift box. 6-Slide the shift handle onto the shift shaft with the control lever still in the NEUTRAL position. Secure the handle with the Allen set screw. 7-Install the shift release button into the center of the shift handle. Very early model gear shift and throttle control box used with early model outboards covered in this manual. Another early model control box with warmup lever and tachometer connection. EARLY MERCONTROL 8-13 8-8 MERCONTROL GEAR SHIFT CONTROL BOX SERVICE SPECIAL WORDS The control box exterior has changed over the years to a more streamline design. HOWEVER, the internal working mechanism remains basically unchanged. The service procedures given in this section apply to all three designs of the control box. SHIFT AND THROTTLE CABLE REPLACEMENT Control Box Disassembling 1-Remove the four screws securing the control housing halves together. Lift the left-side housing (the housing without the neutral warmup lever) and separate the halves. 2-Remove the detent springs and the detent roller from the left-side housing. Lift the face cam out of the left-side housing. GOOD WORDS: Use only control cables C-34555A3 thru C-3555A60 with this control assembly. Carefully choose the control cable with the A third and "later" early model control box with more streamlined exterior. 8-14 REMOTE CONTROLS correct length. Check the throttle and shift cables before installing them to be sure the set screws in the cable end guide are tight. On electric cranking models, it is not necessary to remove the key switch or the choke switch from the housing. Shift Lever 3-Remove the cotter pin and the step dowel pin from the shift lever. Inject Multipurpose Lubricant, or equivalent, into the cable socket. Place the shift cable in position. Coat the step dowel pin with a thin film of Multipurpose Lubricant, or equivalent. Install the step dowel pin through the shift lever cable end. Align the cotter pin holes and insert the cotter pin with the head of the pin toward the FORWARD end of the control box. Secure the cotter pin in place by bending back both ends. 4-Place the face cam in position over the shift lever. The roller on the face cam MUST fit into the notch of the shift lever. Electric Cranking Mpdels: Check to be sure the neutral safety switch is aligned with the notch in the face cam. The neutral safety switch is located above the shift cable. Install the detent springs and the detent roller. Non-electric models: Position the split rubber sleeve on the shorting switch cable over the ends of the shift and throttle cable brass barrels to secure the cables in position. Throttle Lever 5-Remove the cotter pin and the step dowel pin from the throttle lever. Inject Multipurpose Lubricant, or equivalent, into the cable socket. Install the throttle cable in position. Coat the step dowel pin with a thin film of Multipurpose Lubricant, and then install the step dowel pin through the throttle lever and the throttle cable end. Align the cotter pin holes, and then slide the cotter pin through with the head of the pin TOWARD the forward end of the control EARLY MERCONTROL 8-15 1 -Housing 2 -Detent Spring 3-Detent Spring Roller 4-Throttle Lever 5-Sc;-ew 6-Washer 7 -Cam Roller 8-Pin 9-Washer 10-Nut 11 -Thrust Plate 12 -Screw 13 -Detent Pin 14 -Detent Pin Spring 15 -Detent Pin Tension Spring 16 -Welch Plug 33 -Screw 34-Screw 35 -Lockwasher 36 -Shift Lever 37 -Nylon Bushing 38 -Screw 39 -Washer 40 -Screw 41 -Nut 42 -Screw 43 -Washer 44-Nut 45 -Wiring Harness 17 -Neutral Warm-Up Lever 18 -Wave Washer 19 -Nylon Bushing 20-Pin @ 21 -Cotter Pin 22 -Face Cam 23 -Cam Follower 24 -Pin 25 -Spacer 26-Nut 27 -Nylon Bushing 28 -Plug 29 -Housing (Pcrrt) 30 -Decal 31 -Control Lever 32 -Control Lever Grip // ,/--..------37 46 -Clamp 47 -Wood Screw 48 -"D" Washer 49 -Choke Switch 50 -Collar 51 -Jumper Wire 52 -Ignition Switch 53 -Ignition Switch Bezel 54 -Inner Clip 55 -Screw 56 -"D" Washer 57 -Negative Battery Terminal 58 -Positive Battery Terminal Exploded view of a standard Mere Control gear shift box showing major parts. 8-16 REMOTE CONTROLS box. Secure the pin in place by bending back both ends. ASSEMBLING 6-Check to be sure the face cam and the throttle lever are positioned, as shown. Place the shift box housing halves together. If the housing halves do not fit together properly, the cam roller is not entering the face cam slot. Move the face cam to permit the cam roller to enter the face cam slot. Insert the screws through the housing halves and tighten them evenly. 7-Insert the handle into the splined hub on the desired side, and then turn the handle until the detent (neutral position) is noted. Reset the handle until the handle is in the vertical position. Install the handle screw and the lockwasher. Tighten the screw securely. BAD NEWS If the control handle retaining screws are not tightened securely, the handle could disengage and control of the throttle would be lost --an extremely DANGEROUS condition in any number of circumstances: in a crowded waterway, coming alongside, approaching a dock or shore, etc. CONTROL GEAR SH IFT BOX The throttle and shift cables should be installed with gentle curves and routed to prevent kinks, crimping, or damage from having other equipment on or near them. Reposition the hand grip on the control handle, if necessary, for individual ease of control. COMMANDER SHIFT BOX 8-17 8-9 COMMANDER CONTROL SHIFT BOX SERVICE REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLING The following detailed instructions cover removal and disassembly of the "Commander" control shift box from the mounting panel in the boat. 1-Turn the ignition key to the OFF position. Disconnect the high tension leads from the spark plugs, with a twisting motion. 2-Disconnect the remote control wiring harness plug from the outboard trim/tilt motor and pump assembly. 3-Disconnect the tachometer wiring plug from the forward end of the control housing. 4-Remove the three locknuts, flat washers, and bolts securing the control housing to the mounting panel. One is located next to the RUN button (the ignition safety stop switch), and the second is beneath the control handle on the lower portion of the plastic case. The third is located behind the control handle when the handle is in the NEUTRAL position. Shift the handle into FORWARD or REVERSE position to remove the bolt, then shift it back into the NEUTRAL position for the following steps. SECURING BOlT SECURING BOlT (HIDDEN IN RECESS) 8-18 REMOTE CONTROLS 5-Pull the remote control housing away and free of the mounting panel. Remove the plastic cover from the back of the housing. Lift off the access cover from the housing. (Some "Commander" remote control units do not have an access cover.) 6-Remove the two screws securing the cable retainer over the throttle cable, wiring harness, and shift cable. Unscrew the two Phillips-head screws securing the back cover to the control module, and then lift off the cover. Throttle Cable Removal 7-Loosen the cable retaining nut and raise the cable fastener enough to free the throttle cable from the pin. Lift the cable from the anchor barrel recess. 8-Remove the grommet. CABLE RETAI NER SECUR ING SCREW Shift Cable Removal 9-Shift the outboard unit into REVERSE gear by depressing the neutral lock bar on the control handle and moving the control handle into the REVERSE position. LOOSEN, but do not remove, the shift cable retainer nut with a 3/8" deep socket as far as it will go without removing it. Raise the shift cable fastener enough to free the shift cable from the pin. DO NOT attempt to shift into REVERSE while the cable fastener is loose. An attempt to shift may cause the cable fastener to strike the neutral safety microswitch and cause it damage. Lift the wiring harness out of the cable anchor barrel recess and remove the shift cable from the control housing. COMMANDER SHIFT BOX 8-19 Control Handle Removal For Power Trim/Tilt With Toggle Trim Switch Or Push-Button Trim Switch GOOD WORDS For non-power trim/tilt units, it is not necessary to remove the cover of the control handle. If servicing one of these units, proceed directly to Step 13. All others perform Steps 11 and 12. 10-Depress the NEUTRAL lock bar on the control handle and shift the control handle back to the NEUTRAL position. Remove the two Phillips head screws which secure the cover to the handle, and then lift off the cover. The push button trim switch will come free with the cover, the toggle trim switch will stay in the handle body. Unsnap and then remove the wire retainer. Carefully unplug the trim wires and straighten them out from the control panel hub for ease of removal later. 11-Back-off the set screw at the base of the control handle to allow the handle to be removed from the splined control shaft. 12-Grasp the "throttle only" button and pull it off the shaft. SPECIAL WORDS Take care not to damage the trim wires when removing the control handle, on power trim models. SH IFT CABLE 8-20 REMOTE CONTROLS 13-Remove the control handle. 14-Lift the neutral lockring from the control housing. TAKE CARE to support the weight of the control housing to avoid placing any unnecessary stress on the control shaft during the following disassembling steps. 15-Remove the three Phillips-head screws securing the control module to the plastic case. Two are located on either side of the bearing plate and one is in the recess where the throttle cable enters the control housing. 16-Back-out the detent adjustment screw and the control handle friction screw until their heads are flush with the control module casing. This action will reduce the pre-load from the two springs on the detent ball for later removal. GOOD WORDS As this next step is performed, count the number of turns for each screw as they are backed-out and record the figure somewhere. This will be a tremendous aid during assembling. 17-Remove the two locknuts securing the neutral safety switch to the plate assembly and lift out the micro-switch from the recess in the assembly. 18-Remove the Phillips-head screw securing the retaining clip to the control module. COMMANDER SHIFT BOX 8-2 1 19-Support the module in your hand and tilt it until the shift gear spring, shift nylon pin (earlier models have a ball), shift gear pin, another ball the shift gear ball (inner), fall out from their recess. If the parts do not fall out into your hand, attach the control handle and ensure the unit is in the NEUTRAL position. The parts should come free when the handle is in the NEUTRAL position. SHIFT GEAR BALL (OUTER) SHIFT GEAR BALL (INNER) Arrangement of parts from the control module recess. As the parts are removed and cleaned, keep them in order, ready for installation. 8-22 REMOTE CONTROLS 20-Remove FR ICTION SLEEVE t BALL FOLLOWER TR IH 'BUSH ING the three Phillips-head screws securing the bearing plate assembly to the control module housing. 21-Lift out the bearing plate assembly from the control module housing. springs (located under the follower), from their recess in the control module housing. 24-If it is not part of the friction pad, remove the control handle friction sleeve from the recess in the control module hous Power Trim/Tilt Units Only 22 25-Pull the throttle link assembly from Uncoil the trim wires from the re cess in the remote control module housing the module. Remove the compression spring and lift them away with the trim harness from the throttle lever. It is not necessary bushing attached. to remove this spring unless there is cause to replace it. At this point, there is the All Units 23-Remove the detent ball, the detent 0[p VJIJI)[J[)[j[pJ VJIJI)[J[)[j[pJ ball follower, and the two compression BALL BALL FOLLOWER COMPRESSION SPRING @ EARLIER HODEL FRICTION (NO SERVICE) SLEEVE f E ® COMPRESSION SPRING least amount of tension on the compression COMMANDER SHIFT BOX 8-23 All Units 28-Remove the shift gear retaining ring from its groove with a pair of Circlip pliers. SPECIAL WORDS If the Circlip slipped out of its groove, this would allow the shift gear to ride up on the shaft and cause damage to the small parts contained in its recess. The shift gear ball (inner), the shift gear pin, the shift gear ball (outer), or the nylon pin and PARTICULARLY the shift gear spring MUST be inspected closely. spring, therefore, now would be the time to replace it, if required. 26-Lift the shift pinion gear (with attached shift lever), off the pin on the bearing plate. The nylon bushing may come away with the shift lever or stay on the pin. Remove the shift lever and shift pinion gear as an assembly. DO NOT attempt to separate them. Both are replaced if one is worn. Non-Power Trim/Tilt Units Only 27-Remove the trim harness bushing and wiring harness retainer from the control shaft. (On non-power trim/tilt units these two items act as spacers.) SHIFT PINION GEAR 8-24 REMOTE CONTROLS 29-Lift the gear from the control shaft. 30-Remove the "throttle only" shaft pln and "throttle only" shaft from the control shaft. 31-Remove the step washer from the base of the bearing plate. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Clean all metal parts with solvent, and then blow them dry with compressed air. THROTTLE ONLY SHAFT SLOT CONTROL HANDLE ICTION PAD NEVER allow nylon bushings, plastic washers, nylon pins, wiring harness retainers, and the like, to remain submerged in solvent more than just a few moments. The solvent will cause these type parts to expand slightly. They are already considered a "tight fit" and even the slightest amount of expansion would make them very difficult to install. If force is used, the part is most likely to be distorted. Inspect the control housing plastic case for cracks or other damage allowing moisture to enter and cause problems with the mechanism. Carefully check the teeth on the shift gear and shift lever for signs of wear. Inspect all ball bearings for nicks or grooves which would CAUSE them to bind and fail to move freely. Closely inspect the condition of all wires and their protective insulation. Look for exposed wires caused by the insulation rubbing on a moving part, cuts and nicks in the insulation and severe kinking which could cause internal breakage of the wires. Inspect the surface area above the groove in which the Circlip is positioned for signs of the Circlip rising out of the groove. This would occur if the clip had lost its "spring" or worn away the top surface of the groove as mentioned previously in Step 29. If the Circlip slipped out of its groove, this would allow the shift gear to ride up on the shaft and cause damage to the small parts contained in its recess. The shift gear ball (inner), the shift gear pin, the shift gear ball (outer), or the nylon pin and PARTICULARLY the shift gear spring MUST be inspected closely. .. 1 -Remote Control Cover 2-Screw, 3-1/2" (89mm) 3-Toggle Switch Cover 4-Lockring 5-Control Handle 6-Neutral Lock Bar 7 -Compression Spring 8 -Control Handle Cap 9-Screw 10-Set Screw 11 -Retaining Clip 12-Screw 13 -Set Screw 14 -Screw 15 -Grommet 16-Compression Spring 17 -Compression Spring 18 -Detent Ball Follower 19 -Detent Ball Exploded drawing of the Commander shift box with major parts identified. 20 -Throttle-Only Shaft 21 -Throttle-Only Shaft Barrel 22 -Throttle-Only Shaft Pin 23 -Retaining Ring 24 -Shift Gear 25 -Shift Gear Ball -Inner 26 -Shift Gear Pin 27 -Shift Gear Ball or Nylon Pin 28 -Shift Gear Spring 29 -Shift Pinion Gear 30 -Bushing 31 -Shift Lever 32 -Cable Fastener 33-Nut 34 -Step Washer 35 -Bearing Plate Assembly 36-Nut 37 -Screw 38 -Cable Fastener ,..,/ / / 39-Nut 40 -Compression Spring 41 -Throttle Lever Assembly 42 -Cable Retainer 43 -Screw 44 -Cover (if Equipped) 45 -Cover 46 -Screw 47 -Cover 48 -Washer 49 -Nut 50 -Wiring Harness Retainer 3:8 ::0 VI -1:;;I c:::c0X 00 .. 8-26 REMOTE CONTROLS AREA TO BE INSPECTED The throttle-only shaft should be inspected for wear along the ramp, as indicated. Inspect the "throttle only" shaft for wear along the ramp. In early model units, this shaft was made of plastic. Later models have a shaft of stainless steel. Check for excessive wear or cracks on the ramp portion of the shaft, as indicated in the accompanying illustration. Also check the lower "stop" tab to be sure it has not broken away. SPECIAL WORDS Good shop practice dictates a thin coat of Multipurpose Lubricant be applied to all moving parts as a precaution against the "enemy" moisture. Of course the lubricant will help to ensure continued satisfactory operation of the mechanism. ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLATION COMMANDER CONTROL SHIFT BOX FIRST, THESE WORDS The Commander control shift box, like others, has a number of small parts that MUST be assembled in only one order --the proper order. Therefore, the work should not be "rushed" or attempted if the person assembling the unit is "under pressure". Work slowly, exercise patience, read ahead before performing the task, and follow the steps closely. 1-Place the step washer over the control shaft and ensure the steps of the washer seat onto the base of the bearing plate. 2-Rotate the c:mtrol shaft until the "throttle only" shaft pin hole is aligned centrally between the neutral detent notch and the control handle friction pad. Lower the "throttle only" shaft into the barrel of the control shaft with the wide slot in the "throttle only" shaft aligned with the line drawn on the accompanying illustration. Secure the shaft in this position with the "throttle only" shaft pin. SPECIAL WORDS When the pin is properly installed, it should protrude slightly in line with the plastic bushing, as shown in the accompanying illustration. Make an attempt to gently pull the "throttle only" shaft out of the control shaft. The attempt should fail, if the shaft and pin are properly installed. 3-Place the shift gear over the control shaft, and check to be sure the "throttle only" shaft pin clears the gear. COMMANDER SHIFT BOX 8-27 4-Install the retaining ring over the control shaft with a pair of Circlip pliers. Check to be sure the ring snaps into place within the groove. Non-Power Trim/Tilt Units Only 5-Slide the wiring harness retainer and the trim harness bushing over the control shaft. The trim harness bushing is placed "stepped side" UP and the notched side toward the forward side of the control housing. Power Trim/Tilt Units Only 6-Insert the trim harness bushing into the recess of the remote control housing and carefully coil the wires, as shown in the accompanying illustration. Ensure the black line on the trim harness is positioned at the exact point shown for correct installation. The purpose of the coil is to allow slack in the wiring harness when the control handle is shifted through a full cycle. The bushing and wires move with the handle. All Units 7-Position the bushing, shift pinion gear and shift lever onto the pin on the bearing plate, with the shift gear indexing with the shift pinion gear. 8-Install the two compression springs, POSITION OF BLACK LINE ON TRIH HARNESS 8-28 REMOTE CONTROLS detent next step. DETENT adjustment handle friction screw. is now necessary for ease in performing the OCJ=l.. .. BALL FOLLOWER screw and the The number of turns control shift pinion gear assembly against the bear ing plate, as shown. Use a rubber band to secure the shift pinion gear to the bearing plate. Lower the complete bearing plate assembly into the control module housing. the detent ball follower and the detent ball into their recess in the control module housing. 9-If the friction sleeve is not a part of the friction pad, then place the control handle friction sleeve into its recess in the control module housing. SPECIAL WORDS In Step 16 of the disassembling procedures, instructions were given to count the number of turns required to remove the 10-Thread the detent adjustment screw and the control handle friction screw the exact number of turns as recorded during Step 16 of the disassembling procedures. A fine adjustment may be necessary after the unit is completely assembled. 11-Place the compression spring (if re moved) in position on the shift lever and ENTBALL COMPRESSIONSPRING EARLIER HODEL {NO SERVICE) FRICTION SLEEVE COMMANDER SHIFT BOX 8-29 Arrangement of parts, cleaned and ready for installation into the control module recess. 12-Secure the bearing plate assembly to the control module housing with the three Phillips head screws, remove the rubber band. 13-Insert the gear shift ball (inner) into the recess of the shift gear and hole in the "throttle only" shaft barrel. Now, insert the shift gear pin into the recess with the rounded end of the pin away from the control shaft. Insert the nylon pin or shift gear ball (outer) into the same recess. Next, insert the gear shift spring. 14-Hold these small parts in place and at the same time secure them with the retaining clip and the Phillip head screw. (On power trim/tilt units, this retaining clip also secures the trim wire to the control module.) 15-Insert the neutral safety microswitch into the recess of the plate assembly and secure it with the two locknuts. 8-30 REMOTE CONTROLS 16-Secure the control module to the plastic control housing case with the three Phillips head screws. Two are located on either side of the bearing plate and the third in the recess where the throttle cable enters the control housing. 17-Temporarily install the control handle onto the control shaft. Shift the unit into forward detent ONLY, not full forward, to align the holes for ins tall a tion of the throttle link. After the holes are aligned, remove the handle. Install the throttle link. 18-Again, temporarily install the control handle onto the control shaft. This time shift the unit into the NEUTRAL position, and then remove the handle. Place the neutral lockring over the control shaft, with the index mark directly beneath the small boot on the front face of the cover. 19-Install the control onto the splines of the control shaft. TAKE CARE not to cut, pinch, or damage the trim wires on the power trim/tilt unit. CRITICAL WORDS When positioning the control handle, ensure the trim wire bushing is aligned with its locating pin against the corresponding slot in the control handle. On a Power Trim/Tilt unit only: if this bushing is NOT installed correctly, it will not move with the control handle as it is designed to move --when shifted. This may pinch or cut the trim wires, causing serious problems. On a Non-Power Trim/Tilt unit, misplacement of this bushing (it is possible to install this bushing upside down) will not allow the control handle to seat properly against the lockring and housing. This situation will lead to the Allen screw at the base of the control handle to be incorrectly tightened to seat against the splines on the control shaft, instead of gripping the smooth portion of the shaft. Subsequently the control handle will feel "sloppy" and could cause the neutral lock to be ineffective. WARNING IF THIS HANDLE IS NOT SEATED PROPERLY, A SLIGHT PRESSURE ON THE HANDLE COULD THROW THE LOWER UNIT INTO GEAR, CAUSING SERIOUS INJURY TO CREW, PASSENGERS, AND THE BOAT. 20-Push the "throttle only" button in place on the control shaft. 21-Ensure the control handle has seated properly, and then tighten the set screw at the base of the handle to a torque value of 70 in. lbs (7.9Nm). SAFETY WORDS FAILURE to tighten the set screw to the required torque value, could allow the handle to disengage with a loss of throttle and shift control. An extremely DANGEROUS condition. COMMANI:ER SHIFT BOX 8-3 1 Power Trim/Tilt Models or Non-Power Models If Handle Cover Was Removed 22-Slide the hooked end of the neutral lock rod into the slot in the neutral lock release. Route the trim wires in the control handle in their original locations. Connect them with the wires remaining in the handle and secure the connections with the wire retainer. Install the handle cover and tighten the two Phillips head screws. NEUTRAL LOCK ROD @ 8-32 REMOTE CONTROLS 23-Move the wiring harness clear of the barrel recess. Thread the shift cable anchor barrel to the end of the threads, away from the cable converter, and place it into the recess. Hook the pin on the end of the cable fastener through the outer hole in the shift lever. Depress the NEUTRAL lock bar on the control handle and shift the handle into the REVERSE position. TAKE CARE to ensure the cable fastener will clear the neutral safety micro-switch. The access hole is now aligned with the locknut. STOP Check to be sure the pin on the cable fastener is all the way through the cable end and the shift lever. A pin partially engaging the cable and the shift lever may cause the cable fastener to BEND when the nut is tightened. Tighten the locknut with a 3/8" deep socket to a torque value of 20 to 25 in. lbs (2.26 to 2.82 Nm). Position the wiring harness over the installed shift cable. 24-Install the grommet into the throttle cable recess. 25-Thread the throttle cable anchor barrel to the end of the threads, away from the cable connector, and then place it into the recess over the grommet. Hook the pin on the end of the cable fastener through the outer hole in the shift lever. BACK COVER SECURING SCREWS COMMANDER SHIFT BOX 8-33 STOP AGAIN Check to be sure the pin on the cable fastener is all the way through the cable end and the throttle lever. A pin partially engaging the cable and throttle lever may cause the cable fastener to BEND when the nut is tightened. Tighten the locknut to a torque value of 20 to 25 in. lbs (2.26 to 2.82 Nm). 26-Position the control module back cover in place and secure it with the two Phillips-head screws. Tighten the screws to a torque value of 60 in. lbs (6.78 Nm). Install the cable retainer plate over the two cables and secure it in place with the two Phillip-head screws. 27-Place the plastic access cover over the control housing. 28-Position the control housing in place on the mounting panel and secure it with the three long (3-1/2") bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. One is located next to the RUN button (the ignition safety stop switch). The second is beneath the control handle on the power portion of the plastic case. The third bolt goes in behind the control handle when the handle is in the NEUTRAL position. SECURING BOLT (HIDDEN IN RECESS) Commander shift box ready for installation. 30Connect the remote control w1nng Therefore, in order to install this bolt, shift the handle into the FORWARD or the REVERSE position, and then install the bolt. After the bolt is secure, shift the handle back to the NEUTRAL position for the next few steps. 29-Connect the tachometer wiring plug to the forward end of the control housing. GOOD WORDS Clean the prongs of the connector with crocus cloth to ensure the best connection possible. Exercise care while cleaning to prevent bending the prongs. harness plug from the outboard trim/tilt motor and pump assembly. 31-Install the high-tension leads to their respective spark plugs. 32-Route the wiring harness alongside the boat and fasten with the "Sta-Straps". Check to be sure the wiring will not be pinched or chafe on any moving part and will not come in contact with water in the bilge. Route the shift and throttle cables the best possible way to make large bends and as few as possible. Secure the cables approximately every three feet (one meter). 11011 CLAMP 3 ft. (1m) CABLE ADJUSTMENTS 8-35 STANDARD NEUTRAL POSITION 30o ':Jo 1 5° HAY BE SHI FJED ---... .. ·\EVERY 15 60• '-..\ \ ' .. ... -------'-. " r -·-.. -q;goo -··.,j--... ---- '5=----·-.·-\y ..-/ The neutral position of the remote control handle may be changed to any one of a number of convenient angles to meet the owner's preference. The change is accomplished by shifting the handle one spline on the shaft at a time. Each ° spline equals 15 of arc, as shown. The procedures on Page 8-30 explain the positioning in detail. 8-10 CABLE ADJUSTMENTS Shift Cable Installation and Adjustment Several engine models are covered in this section. Therefore, the procedural steps are numbered, but the accompanying illustrations have captions instead of step related numbers. As the work progresses, refer to the captions for the particular engine being serviced. On remote control units equipped with a neutral lock bar, depress the neutral lock bar and secure it in this position with a strong rubber band or a piece of tape. This is necessary to ensure correct location of the true neutral detent while installing the shift and throttle cables to the powerhead. The rubber band will be removed later. On models equipped with a small neutral warmup lever on the side of the control box, push the lever to the full down position. Before starting the adjustments, check to be sure the cable end guide set screws have been tightened to a torque value of 25 in. lbs (2.8 Nm). 1-Slowly move the remote control handle toward the FORWARD gear position, and at the same time observe closely the cable end guides for movement. The shift cable end guide should be the first to move. Return the control handle to the NEUTRAL position. 2-Feed the shift cable end guide and brass barrel through the rubber grommet in the bottom cowl. 3-Adjust the brass barrel until the length between the brass barrel and the hole in the cable end guide is equal to the amount between the barrel retainer and the shift linkage peg, with a very SLIGHT preload toward the reverse position. 4-Install the brass barrel into the barrel retainer and the cable end guide over the shift linkage peg. Refer to the illustration for the engine model being serviced. 5-Secure the cable end guide in place with the retainer. 6-Move the remote control lever to the FORWARD gear position. With the lever in CABLE RETA INER Shift cable installation on a 45hp (or 50hp) power­head. Throttle and shift cable installation on the following powerheads: 50hp, 60hp, 70hp, 75hp, 80hp, and 90hp 3cylinder; lOOhp and llOhp 4-cylinder. this position, it should not be possible to rotate the propeller counterclockwise. If it is possible to rotate the propeller, ad just the brass barrel CLOSER to the cable end guide and repeat Steps 4 thru 6. 7-Shift the remote control lever to the NEUTRAL position, without going past the neutral detent. The propeller shaft should now be free to rotate without any drag. Adjust the brass barrel AWAY from the cable end guide, if necesaary, and repeat Steps 4 thru 7. 8-Rotate the propeller and at the same time shift the remote control lever to the REVERSE position. The propeller shaft 0 must not be free to rotate more than 120 in either direction. Adjust the brass barrel A WAY from the cable end guide, if necessary, and repeat Steps 4 thru 8. 9-Move the remote control lever to the NEUTRAL position without moving past the neutral detent. The propeller should now be free to rotate in either direction without any evidence of drag. Adjust the brass barrel CLOSER to the cable end guide, if necessary, and repeat Steps 4 thru 9. Throttle Cable Installation and Adjustment Before starting the following procedures, check to be sure the cable end guide set screws have been tightened to a torque value of 25 in. lbs (2.8 Nm). 1-Feed the throttle cable end guide and the brass barrel through the rubber grommet in the bottom cowl. 2-Move the remote control handle to the NEUTRAL position. Move the warmup lever (on the side of standard control only) to the full DOWN position. 3-For early models equipped with a distributor, move the throttle lever to a position where the distributor is held "lightly" against the idle stop screw mounted on the stop plate. For later models without a distributor, move the throttle lever towards the rear of the powerhead until it rests against the idle stop screw mounted against the powerhead. Install the cable end guide over the peg in the throttle lever swivel. Refer to the illustration for the particular engine model being serviced. If-Adjust the brass barrel in the necessary direction until the barrel can be installed into the barrel retainer. 5-Move the remote control handle to open the throttle. Hold a thin sheet of paper between the idle speed stop screw and the idle stop on the engine. Continue to hold the paper and close the throttle by moving the remote control handle to the NEUTRAL position. The neutral warmup lever MUST be in the full down position. If the paper cannot be removed at this time, the brass barrel is preloaded against the idle stop screw. If the paper can be removed with no drag, the barrel is not close enough to the idle stop screw. Adjust the brass barrel, and repeat the check to be sure it has not been moved too far. 6-Move the remote control to the FORWARD gear position and continue to move the handle to the end of its travel --the wide-open throttle position. Check to be sure the throttle plates on the carburetors are at the full throttle position, but not jammed against the stop. See Chapter 6 for detailed timing and synchronizing procedures. On models so equipped, place the battery lead in the recess shown in the illustration. Secure the lead with the retainer and stastrap, as shown. CRITICAL WORDS Excessive preload on thE} throttle cable may cause difficult shifting from the FORWARD position to the NEUTRAL position. If this condition should occur, adjust the throttle cable barrel to reduce the preload. LAST WORD FOR MODEL 650 3-CYLINDER 1972-76 Check to be sure the battery leads pass inside the retainer plate. This route will prevent the insulation on the leads from becoming chaffed. 9 TILT MECHANISM 9-1 INTRODUCTION All outboard engine installations are equipped with some means of ra1smg or lowering the lower unit for efficient operation under various load, boat design, and water conditions. The most simple form is a mechanical tilt adjustment consisting of a series of holes in the transom mounting bracket through which an adjustment pin INCORRECT Bow too high --trim engine down. INCORRECT Bow too low --trim engine up. passes through to secure the engine at the desired angle. A second and more modern method, especially for the larger units, is a hydraulically operated system controlled from the helmsperson's position. Early model units utilized two small trim/tilt cylinders. The cylinders extended very slowly through the trim degree range, and then accelerated to move the outboard to the tilt position for trailering or shallow water operation. Later model units incorporated two small trim cylinders and one large tilt cylinder. As with the early model units, the trim cylinders move the outboard upward or downward very slowly. Once the maximum trim angle has been reached, approximately 20°, the tilt cylinder continues to move the outboard upward or downward at a much faster rate. CORRECT Boat and engine properly trimmed. The trim position of the outboard unit directly The tilt position is adjusted by inserting the tilt pin affects the bow position and thus the boat performance. through one of a series of holes in the transom bracket. CHAPTER ORGANIZATION SYSTEM "A" For purposes of identification, the early model system with just two cylinders has been de signa ted as System "A". All information, including description, operation, special instructions, bleeding the system, troubleshooting, and service of the various components is covered in the first part of this chapter from Section 9-2 thru 9-9. System "B" The later system with two trim cylinders and one large cylinder has been designated as System "B". All information, including description, operation, special instructions, bleeding the system , troubleshooting, and service of the various components is covered in the second part of this chapter from Section 9-10 thru 9-15. 9-2 MECHANICAL TILT PIN ALL UNITS The mechanical tilt arrangement is found on most outboard units. A change in When the outboard is at the full trim out position, the swivel bracket should still be engaged with the clamp bracket flanges by 1/2" (1. 75cm) or more. the tilt angle of the engine is accomplished by inserting the tilt adjustment pin through one of a series of holes in the transom mounting bracket. These holes allow the operator to obtain the desired boat trim under various speeds and loading conditions. The tilt angle of a lower unit is properly set when the anti-cavitation plate is approx imately parallel with the bottom of the boat. The boat trim is corrected by stop ping the boat, removing the adjustment pin tilting the engine upward or downward, as desired, and then installing the pin through the new hole exposed in the transom mount ing bracket. To raise the bow of the boat, the engine is raised one hole at-a-time until the oper ator is satisfied with the boat's perfor mance. If the bow is to be lowered, the lower unit is lowered one hole at-a-time. Performance will generally be improved if the bow is lowered during operation in rough water. The boat should NEVER be operated with the lower unit set at an excessive raised position. Such a tilt angle will cause the boat to "porpoise", which is very .dangerous in rough water. Under such conditions the helmsperson does not have complete control at all times. Instead of making extreme changes in the lower unit angle, it is far better to shift passengers and/ or the load to obtain proper performance. In order to obtain maximum efficiency and safety from the boat and engine, the tilt pin must be installed in the proper position. The wide range of boat designs with their various transom angles, requires a determination be made for each engine installation. Actually, the tilt pin is only required if the boat handles improperly in the full trimmed "in" position at wide open throttle (WOT). Usually this occurs when the transom "angle" is too large. This section provides detailed procedures to properly install the tilt pin and also the necessary instructions to adjust the tilt limit switch for units with the System "A" Trim/Tilt arrangement. Tilt Pin Installation Refer to the accompanying illustration while performing the following installation steps. 1-Operate the Power Trim to move the engine inward or outward until the anticavitation plate is parallel to the boat bot SYSTEM "A" 9-3 tom. With the engine in this position, notice the position of the swivel bracket in relation to the clamp bracket tilt pin holes. Now, install the tilt pin into the first full pin hole closer to the transom • 2-Install the washer and cotter pin into the tilt pin and open the pin end to secure it in place. Tilt Limit Switch Adjustment Units with System "A" Only SAFETY WORDS: The tilt trim limit switch MUST be properly adjusted to prevent the swivel bracket from being trimmed outward beyond the clamp bracket tilt pin flanges. Proper tilt limit switch adjustment will also ensure continuous side support for the swivel bracket. Refer to the two accompanying illustrations while performing the following six steps to adjust the tilt limit switch. 1-Depress the IN button and hold it depressed until the engine has reached the bottom of its travel. 2-Depress the UP/OUT button and hold it depressed until the pump motor stop.f. With the engine in this position, the swivel bracket should still be engaged with the clamp bracket flanges by 1/2" (12.7 mm) or more. 3-Pull out on the lower unit to remove any slack in the hydraulic cylinders while the trim limit tilt position is checked. GOOD WORDS: If the piston rods retract into the hydraulic cylinders more than 1 /8" ( 3.17 mm) while the lower unit was being pulled out, the hydraulic system MUST bled of air. See Section 9-5. If-If the engine swivel bracket tilts out further than the limit given in Step 2, the trim limit switch needs adjustment. To adjust the switch, loosen the limit switch bolt on the side of the wrap around bracket. If the engine tilts out too far, turn the limit switch adjustment nut on top of the bracket COUNTERCLOCKWISE. If the engine fails to tilt out far enough, turn the adjustment nut CLOCKWISE. 5-Repeat Steps 1 thru 4, as necessary until the proper trim limit switch adjustment is attained. 6-Tighten the limit switch bolt securely to lock in the adjustment. 9-3 SYSTEM "A" MODELS WITH TWO TRIM/TILT CYLINDERS DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION The hydraulically powered tilt system permits changing the tilt angle of the engine from the helmsperson's position. Controls and indicators for the system are located on the control panel. Adjusting the trim limit switch on the starboard side Adjusting the ti·im limit switch on the port side of of the outboard. the outboard. 9-4 TRIM/TILT The angle of the lower unit is properly set when the boat is operating to give maximum performance, including comfort and safety. The powered tilt system consists of a hydraulic pump, two trim/tilt cylinders, a reverse lock valve, trim indicator sender, controls, an indicator gauge, and associated hoses and fittings. The hydraulic pump includes a valve body-and-gear assembly, control valve, pump motor, and a reservoir. The controls consist of an UP button, an UP/OUT button, and an IN button. The indicator gauge is installed on the control panel next to the control buttons. OPERATION When the UP trim switch is operated, the UP pump solenoid is actuated and the electric motor circuit is closed. The electric motor drives the oil pump and oil is forced into the UP side of the trim cylinders. The engine is trimmed upward until the trim switch is released, or until the trim limit cutout switch opens the circuit and stops the engine swivel bracket within the limits of the clamp bracket supporting flanges. When the DOWN trim switch is operated, the DOWN solenoid is actuated and the Three buttons ·are used to control the trim/tilt adjustment. One button is used to raise the engine for trim, another to lower the unit, and the third is used simultaneously with the UP button to position the outboard for trailering or during launch. electric motor circuit is closed, but the motor will run in the opposite direction. Again, the motor drives the oil pump and oil is forced into the DOWN side of the trim cylinders and the engine is trimmed down to the desired position. When the TRAll.ERING switch is operated, the UP pump solenoid is actuated and the pump motor circuit is closed. The pump motor will drive the oil pump and force oil into the UP side of the trim cylinders. The trailering circuit bypasses the trim limit switch, enabling the engine to be tilted upward for trailering, docking or shallow water operation. TRAILERING OR LAUNCHING Two control buttons on the control panel must be pushed at the same time to raise the stern drive to the full up position for trailering or launching the boat the normal UP button and the middle UP/OUT button. By pushing the middle UP/OUT button, current is passed to the top UP switch. The current passing through the UP switch while the button is depressed, will by-pass the trim limit switch so the UP circuit will be able to raise the lower unit to the full up position. If the middle UP/OUTbutton is depressed during normal boat operation, a trim limit switch will keep the drive unit from moving out beyond the transom mounting bracket. When the hydraulic cylinders reach their full extent of travel, the pump motor will labor if the control buttons are not released. Therefore, to prevent Qamage to the system, a bimetal switch will open the circuit The trim gauge advised the helmsperson of the relative position of the outboard at all times. to stop the pump motor and prevent the motor from overheating. The switch contacts will close automatically after the motor has cooled and the motor can again be operated. ONE MORE WORD Whenever the boat is being trailered, a trailer bracket should ALWAYS be used to mechanically lock the lower unit in the up position. Such a bracket may be purchased at modest cost from the local marine store and will give "peace of mind" to the owner as he moves the boat from place to place. SAFETY WORDS Two precautions MUST be followed if the engine is to be operated in shallow water with the engine trimmed beyond the trim limit cut-out: 1-NEVER operate the engine above idle rpm. When the engine is trimmed beyond trim limit cut-out, the swivel bracket does not have support. 2-Check to be sure the water intake ports remain submerged. If the intake ports should rise above the water surface, even for a very short time, severe damage could be caused to the water pump or to other expensive parts from overheating. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. ALWAYS release the DOWN or TRAILER switch as soon as the engine reaches the end of its travel. If the switch is not released, VALVE BODY AND GEAR ASSEMBLY SYSTEM "A" 9-5 an overload cut-out switch will open and the pump motor will stop. If the cut-out switch should open, DO NOT depress either switch for approximately one minute. During this time, the cut-out switch will reset itself, the switch closes, and the pump may be operated again. 9-4 SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS SYSTEM "A" 1-Use clean MS, SD, SE, SF 20W, or 5W30, or lOW-40 or equivalent oil to fill the hydraulic reservoir. Use one of these oils to flush the system . 2-REMEMBER to remove the vent seal when filling the pump reservoir to prevent overfilling. TOO MUCH fluid in the system can cause pump body failure or motor failure. DO NOT close the vent screw because air in the reservoir MUST be able to escape. 3-The engine unit MUST be in the FULL UP position with the hydraulic cylinders extended when the reservoir is filled. The correct fluid level is EVEN with the bottom of the oil filler hole. 4-If the pump stops during long use, allow the pump motor to cool at least one minute before starting it again. An internal thermal circuit breaker protects the pump motor. If the pump will operate, the circuit breaker may be tripped in the off-position. 5-Keep the work area CLEAN when servicing disassembled parts. The smallest The gear assembly secured in the valve body cannot The control valves cannot be serviced. If they are be serviced. If defective, it must be replaced as a unit. found to be defective, the entire unit must be replaced. amount of dirt or lint can cause failure of the pump to operate. 6-The valve body-and-gear cage assem bly, or the control valve assembly MUST be replaced as a unit because of the precision fitting of the valves and gears. 7-The can over the inlet screen of the valve body-and-gear assembly MUST be in stalled securely or the oil will foam out the vent. 8-TAKE CARE not to allow Liquid Neoprene to get into the valve body-and gear assembly. Use the neoprene sparingly. 9-The hydraulic pump motor must be moisture-proof. To moisture-proof a motor after service, apply Liquid Neoprene around the pump motor commutator plate edges, around the motor frame where it contacts the reservoir, and in the area where the wire leads enter the motor. Any sign of oil in the pump motor indicates either the reservoir seal is damaged or the vent screw was closed. If the vent was closed, air could not escape and oil was forced into the pump motor. 10-DO NOT allow the trim cylinders to hang by their hydraulic hoses. Such practice may cause damage to the hoses. Use CARE when handling trim cylinders during removal/ installation of the engine. Rough treatment of the hoses could resul t in a weakened hose, partial separation at the fitting, or bending of the metal tubing. Such damage could certainly restrict the flo N of oil to the trim cylinders. 11-ALWAYS hold the metal ferrule on the hose with pliers when tightening the Hydraulic pump reservoir installation for the power trim/tilt system. The vent screw should remain open. fitting. The indicator line on the hose MUST follow the hose bend without a twist. A twisted hose will cause severe loads re sulting in over-stress on the hose and the tubing will be bent. 12-Following service on the system, move the engine from hard-over to hardover, port and starboard, and from the full DOWN to the full UP position. During engine movement, check for possible kinks, twists, or severe bends in the hoses or at the fitting ends. 9-5 HYDRAULIC BLEEDING SYSTEM "A" Air in the system, even a small amount, can lead to poor performance or to a malfunction. Any time the system is opened for service, the following bleeding procedures should be closely followed. 1-Move the engine to the full UP position and engage the tilt lock lever. 2-Remove the FILL screw and fill the pump with fluid. 3-Operate the trim system completely through the tilt range several times to bleed Bleed screw location for the DOWN side of the cylinder. TROUBLE SHOOTING PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION Engine fails to Release valve control knob not comTurn valve fully clockwise. trim up or down pletely closed. Oil level low or air in system. Fill reservoir and bleed system. Check for leaks. Determine if hydraulic pump motor If motor operates, service the hydraulic system. operates when trim button is depressed. If motor fails to operate, refer to electrical system troubleshooting. Engine trims up, but Determine if hydraulic pump motor If motor operates, service hydraulic system. will not trim down. operates when UP trim button is If motor fails to operate, refer to electrical depressed. system troubleshooting. Engine trims down, but Determine if hydraulic pump motor If motor operates, perform hydraulic system UP pressure will not trim up. operates when UP trim button is test. If motor does not operate, refer to elctrical depressed. troubleshooting. Engine will not return Air in the system. Fill reservoir and bleed system. Check for leaks. completely to DOWN Internal cylinder/s leaks. Service the hydraulic system. position, or returns part way with jerky motion. Engine thumps when Air in the system. Fill reservoir and bleed system. Check for leaks. shifted. Internal cylinder leaks. Service the hydraulic system. Control valve assembly leaks. Service the hydraulic system. Engine trails out Air in the system. Fill reservoir and bleed system. Check for leaks. when backing off Defective control valve assembly. Install new control valve assembly. m 0 throttle at high Internal cylinder leaks. Service the hydraulic system. speed. C) z Engine fails to hold External leak --fittings or parts. Tighten fittings, or replace defective parts. VI a trimmed position Internal leaks. Service hydraulic system. .. or will not remain Pump check valve leak, high pressure. Clean check valve by operating system up and down several rri til ted for extended times to flush system. If problem not corrected, replace .. period. pump vaive body assembly. -::= Engine fails to Defective reverse lock valve solenoid. Refer to electrical troubleshooting. hold in reverse. Internal cylinder leaks. Service the hydraulic system. Worn reverse lock valve seat. Service the hydraulic system. .!..J\0 9-8 TRIM/TILT air from the system. Check the fluid level in the pump when the engine is in the full UP position. Thread the FILL screw into place and tighten it securely. 9-6 TROUBLESHOOTING SYSTEM "A" Always attempt to proceed with the troubleshooting in an orderly manner. The "shot-in-the-dark" approach will only result in wasted time, incorrect diagnosis, replace ment of unnecessary parts, and frustration. To be successful, the troubleshooting process must begin with an accurate determination of the problem, followed by a logical reasoning of what caused the problem, and finally intelligently concluding the required corrective action to be taken. The final phase, of course, is the work involved in returning the unit to satisfactory performance. Any problem with the Power Trim system must first be classified as a malfunction in the electrical system or in the hydraulic system. The following troubleshooting table is designed to provide a logical approach and sequence of work necessary to arrive at the proper solution. TESTING TRIM SWITCHES EARLY AND LATE MODELS Test Panel Control Switch a-Disconnect the power trim harness from the trim pump. b-Connect a continuity meter or a test lamp between the switch terminals on the back of the switch. The meter should indicate NO continuity or the test lamp should not light with the button in the free position. Depress the button. The meter should indicate continuity or the test lamp should light. Early Model Trim Switches Externally Mounted On Trim Cylinder Bracket Trim Switch Removal c-Disconnect the power trim harness from the trim pump. d-Remove the switch control panel from the mounting hole. e-Remove the four attaching screws, and then remove the switch retainer. f-Release the soldered connections from t!)e switch. Trim Switch Installation g-Solder the wires on the new switch to the terminals. After soldering, coat the terminals with Liquid Neoprene. The control switch, as viewed from the BACK side, Bleed screw location for the UP side of the cylinder. is accessible for service. h-Insert the switch into the panel and secure it in place with the switch retainer and the four attaching screws. i-Install the switch control panel into the mounting hole. j-Connect the power trim harness to the trim pump. Late Model Trim Switch Mounted On Inside Of Starboard Trim Cylinder Mounting Bracket 1-Remove the two bolts securing the starboard trim cylinder mounting bracket to the transom. Remove the hex bolt and nut securing the trim cylinder mounting bracket to the outboard. Back-out the bolt securing the lower end of the trim cylinder to the outboard. Lift off the trim cylinder and mounting bracket free of the outboard. 2-Remove the five screws, and then lift off the cover and gasket from the mounting bracket. Lift out and SAVE the spring from the actuating plunger. Remove the two screws securing the trim limit switch to the mounting bracket. Lift out the trim limit switch and pull the wires free from the mounting bracket. Verify the actuating plunger operates freely without binding. Two trim limit switches are externally mounted, one on either side of the trim cylinder bracket. TROUBLESHOOTING SYSTEM "A" 9-9 TR IM LIMIT SWITCH (LOCATED IN BRACKET) CLEANING AND INSPECTING Clean the plunger and check the spring to be sure it is not distorted. If troubleshooting indicates the switch is defective, it must be replaced. Individual parts are not available to "rebuild" the switch. INSTALLATION 1-Install the actuating plunger. Position the trim limit switch into the mounting bracket. Route the wire harness over the hydraulic hoses and through the hole in the bracket. Coat the trim limit switch and wires with Anti-Corrosion Lubricant or a Silicone Compound. If corrosion was a problem, fill the entire switch cavity with lubricant or the Silicone Compound. Slide the spring into the actuating plunger. Place the gasket and cover onto the mounting bracket with the spring extending through the hole in the gasket. Secure the cover in place 9-1 0 TRIM/TILT CD with the five screws. Check the switch by depressing the plunger. The plunger should operate without binding and an audible "click" sound should be heard as the switch turns on and off. 2-Place the trim cylinder and mounting bracket into position on the outboard unit. Install the bolt securing the lower end of the trim cylinder to the outboard. Secure the trim cylinder mounting bracket to the outboard unit with the hex bolt and nut. Coat the shank, not the threads, of the two bolts securing the starboard trim cylinder mounting bracket to the transom with sealing compound. The compound will ensure a watertight installation. Install the bolts and tighten the nuts securely. SOLENOID TESTING SYSTEM "A" FIRST, THESE WORDS Some units covered in this manual have and UP solenoid and a DOWN solenoid. Other units have only one solenoid. TRIH LIHIT SWITCH (LOCATED IN BRACKET) In addition to this fact, two different styles of solenoids were used on the System "A" power trim/tilt units. The accompanying illustration shows how each solenoid may be bench tested. Disconnect all leads from the solenoid terminals. Use the RXl scale on an ohmmeter. Connect each meter lead to the large solenoid terminals. Connect the positive lead of a 12-volt battery to one of the solenoid small terminals. Connect one end of a piece of wire to the other small solenoid terminal. Now, for just a splitsecond, make contact with the other end of the wire to the ground terminal of the battery. A loud click sound should be heard from the solenoid and the meter reading should indicate zero ohms. If a audible "click" is not heard and the meter indicates a reading other than zero ohms, the solenoid is defective and must be replaced. Early model solenoid (above), and late model solenoid (below), hooked up for testing. An audible "click'' should be heard from the solenoid and the ohmmeter should indicate zero ohms. TROLBLESHOOTING SYSTEM "A" 9-1 1 1-RETAI NER 10-0-R ING -7/32x1 1/32x1/16 2-0-RING -7/32x1 1/32x1/16 11-DOWN BLEED SCREW 3-UP BLEED SCREW 12-0-RI NG -1-1/2x1-5/8x1/16 4-CHAMFERED END 13-0-RING -5/8x3/4x1/16 5-CYLINDER LINER 14-0-RING -1-5/16x1-1/2x3/32 6-PI STON 15-0-RING -1-5/8x1-13/16x3/32 7-SL I PPER SEAL 16-0-RING -1-3/4x1-15/16x3/32 8-0-RING -1-1/4x1-1 1/32x3/32 17-0-RING -1-7/8x2-1/16x3/32 9-BOLT 18-0-R ING -3/4x27/32x3/32 Cross-section of a 3/4" diameter piston rod cylinder with the bleed screw and 0-ring sizes identified. 11 - 1-RETA INER 8-0-RING 1-5/16x1-1/2x3/32 2-0-RING -1-7/8x2-1/16x3/32 9-0-RING -7/8x1x1/16 3-UP BLEED SCREW 10-SL I PPER SEAL 4-0-RING -1-5/16x1-1/2x3/32 11-DOWN BLEED SCREW 5-0-RING -1-1/4x1-7/16x3/32 12-0-RING 1-5/8x1-13/16x3/32 - 6-BOLT 13-0-RING -1-3/4x1-15/16x3/32 7-0-RING -1-1/2x1-5/8x1/16 14-0-RING -1x1-3/16x3/32 15-PI STON Cross-section of a 1" diameter piston rod cylinder with the bleed screw and 0-ring sizes identified. 9-12 TRIM/TILT Typical trim/tilt cylinder and hose installation for the trim/tilt system covered in this manual. 9-7 HYDRAULIC TRIM SERVICE SYSTEM "A" Trim Cylinder Removal WARNING: Exercise care when working with the trim cylinders. Take extra precautions to prevent the engine from falling, or moving down rapidly. Such action could cause BODILY INJURY. Disconnect the two trim hoses from the cylinder to be removed. Cap the hoses and plug the holes in the cylinders as a precaution against contamination, including air, from entering the system. The caps and plugs will also prevent an unnecessary loss of oil. Remove the mounting bolts at each end of the cylinder, and then remove the cylinder. ALWAYS keep the work area clean to prevent contamination. The smallest amount of foreign material can lead to a malfunction in the system. Removing the bleed screws from the cylinder. The UP screw is at the bottom of the cylinder and the DOWN screw is at the top. Removing the retainer assembly and liner from the cylinder housing. Trim Cylinder Disassembling Remove the UP and DOWN bleed screws, identified as 3 and 11 in the illustration, previous page. Use a 1-3/4" spanner wrench and unscrew the retainer assembly from the cylinder assembly. After the retainer assembly is loose, pull the rod and piston assembly, retainer assembly, and the cylinder liner from the cylinder housing. Use a long wire pick to dislodge the 0ring from the cylinder housing, and then remove the ring. Clamp the rod assembly in a vise equipped with soft jaws, and then slide the cylinder liner off the retainer and piston, using a twisting motion. Remove the bolt and piston from the piston rod. Remove the four 0-rings from the outside retainer and one 0-ring from inside the retainer behind the seal and scraper. DO NOT remove or damage the seal or scraper. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Make an effort to keep the work area clean, because any contamination in the system could lead to a malfunction. Inspect the cylinder liner and piston for wear. Check to be sure the piston is not bent or distorted. Removing the retainer assembly from the liner. SERVICE SYSTEM "A" 9-13 Removing the Q-ring and slipper seal from the liner. Remove all seals and 0-rings. Clean all parts in a solvent, and then blow them dry with com pressed air. Trim Cylinder Assembling Lubricate all 0-rings and 0-ring contact surfaces with Multipurpose Lubricant, as protection against damaging the ring during installation. Install the proper 0-ring into the cylinder housing. Use Multipurpose Lubricant to hold the 0-ring in the recessed groove. Press the 0-ring firmly into the bottom of the groove, using the cylinder liner as a tool. Install the 0-ring into the groove of the new brass piston. CAREFULLY stretch the slipper seal over the 0-ring. USE CARE when stretching the slipper seal. If the slipper is overstretched, installation of the piston into the liner will be more difficult. Position the proper 0-ring into the recessed end of the piston. Installing the liner onto the piston. Install the proper size 0-ring into the grooves on the retainer. CAREFULLY insert the 0-ring into the groove inside the retainer, without damaging the seal or the scraper. Slide the retainer assembly onto the piston rod. Coat the internal surface of the cylinder liner, piston, slipper seal assembly and Installation Tool C-91-69626 with Multipurpose Lubricant. Clamp the rod eye in a vise, as shown. Position the cylinder liner onto the retainer with the chamfered side TOWARD the retainer. Now, position installation tool C-91-69626 on the cylinder liner and place the piston, with the slipper seal installed, into the tool, with the 0-ring TOWARD the end of the rod. Push the slipper seal into the tool by hand until the retainer bolt can be started. Remove the retainer bolt and apply a small amount of Blue Loctite to the threads. Install the bolt and use the bolt to draw the piston into the liner. Tighten the bolt to a torque value of 35 ft lbs. (4-7.6 Nm) on 3/lJ." diameter rods or to 60 ft lbs. (81.6 Nm) on 1" diameter rods. Apply Multipurpose Lubricant to the end of the liner which seats against the 0-ring in the housing. The retainer should be carefully inspected to ensure the threads have not been damaged and the Q-ring seats are clean. Apply Loctite to the threads of the bolt securing the slipper seal to the end of the cylinder shaft. 9-14 TRIM/TILT Working the cylinder shaft through the retainer. After the shaft is in place, it should move smoothly through the retainer. Insert the complete piston, piston rod, cylinder liner, and retainer assemblies into the cylinder housing. Coat the threads of the retainer with Perfect Seal, or equivalent. Thread the retainer assembly into the cylinder housing and tighten it to a torque value of 35-40 ftlbs. (47 .6-54.4 Nm). Check the cylinder movement by moving the piston rod completely in and out of the cylinder several times. The movement should be free with no feel of binding. Install the bleed screws into the cylinder housing. Check to be sure the 0-rings under the bleed screws remain in place. As a protection against corrosion, touchup any scratches, nicks, etc., by sanding and painting. Fill and bleed the cylinders according to the procedures outlined in Section 9-5. Trim Cylinder Installation WARNING: Exercise care when working with the trim cylinders. Take extra precautions to prevent the engine from falling, or moving down rapidly. Such action could cause BODILY INJURY Position the trim cylinder in place, as shown. Install the top mounting bolt and tighten it to a torque value of 50 ft lbs. (67.8 Nm). The starboard cylinder has a washer installed between the outer side of the cylinder and the mounting bracket. Install the lower mounting bolts, with a spacer and rubber bushing. Tighten the bolt to a torque value of 50 ft lbs. (67.8 Nm). Remove the caps from the hoses and the plugs from the cylinders. Connect the hoses to the cylinders. TAKE CARE not to crossthread the hoses in the cylinders. Tighten the hoses securely. Operate the trim system and check for leaks. See Section 9-5 to bleed any air that may have entered the system during the service work. 9-8 HYDRAULIC PUMP SERVICE SYSTEM "A" TESTING Trim Pump Motor Test This simple procedure will determine if the trim pump motor requires service. a-Disconnect the black and blue motor wires from the solenoid terminals. b-Connect a 12-volt supply between the motor terminals where the black and blue wires were disconnected. The motor should run. If the motor fails to operate, it requires service or replacement, see Section 9-9. The cylinder can be checked prior to installation by using compressed air at each pressure port. The piston should move smoothly in each direction. Exercise care Installing the piston and liner into the pump housing. because the piston will move rapidly and with force. PUMP REMOVAL Disconnect the large red and black battery wires at the battery to eliminate the possibility of sparks. Tag the wires and terminals at the pump and solenoid, and then disconnect the wires. Remove the mounting nuts, and then remove the pumpand- mounting bracket assembly. If the pump is to be replaced, TAKE CARE to prevent loss of hydraulic fluid, and then disconnect the hoses. DISASSEMBLING Clean the outside of the pump with solvent, and then blow it dry with compressed air. The pump MUST be thoroughly cleaned before the disassembly work begins to prevent contamination entering the system. Even the smallest amount of foreign material could lead to a malfunction. Keep the work area as clean as possible for the same reason. Remove the reservoir fill screw, and then drain the oil. Remove the four 7 /16" hex-head screws from the control valve and the eight screws from the valve body and gear assembly. Separate the reservoir from the valve body and DISCARD the seal. CLEANING AND INSPECTING If the pump is damaged or shows signs of wear, the entire body and gear assembly must be replaced as a unit because the valves and gears have such a precision matched fit. SERVICE SYSTEM "A" 9-15 Hydraulic pump for the trim/tilt system with associated parts and wiring prior to removal. Tag the wires as an aid during installation. ASSEMBLING TRIM/TILT PUMP Place a SMALL amount of Liquid Neoprene C-92-25711-1 in the seal groove of the valve body to hold the seal in place during assembly. TAKE CARE with the Liquid Neoprene because any excess amount may enter the valve body and plug the ports. Result: Failure of the pump. Install the seal on the valve body, and then install the The gear assembly secured in the valve boay with General view of the trim/tilt installed on the outPhillips head screws. The assembly is identical to the board, connected, and ready for operation. two at the top of Page 9-17. 9-16 TRIM/TILT fl ..-------THRU-BOLT (2) HYDRAULIC PUHP ASSY (2) 0 SPRING (2) 0-RING (4) ---..._"'"'" (2) COIIIUTATOR <' "" PLATE BAll VALVE ASSY FI ELD AND LOCKVASHER (..) FRAME ASSY BOLT {4) .....-------ARMATURE THRUST WASHER . { hVENT SCREW FILLER SCREW " SEALING WASHER RESERVOIR VALVE BODY AND GEAR ASSEMBLY Exploded view of the hydraulic pump and control valve with major parts identified. SERVICE SYSTEM "A" 9-17 The gear assembly secured in the valve body using The gear assembly secured in the valve body with 6point screws and two bolts. The assembly is identical to the one on Page 9-15 and top of next column. valve body and gear cage assembly onto the reservoir. Secure the parts together with the eight attaching screws. Tighten the opposite screws evenly and securely. Now, apply a coating of Liquid Neoprene, or equivalent, around the edges of the housings to ensure a good seal. After the neoprene has thoroughly dried, paint the parts. Because the vent screw is left open, the pump is vented, therefore, it is self-bleed ing. INSTALLATION SYSTEM "A" PUMP Attach the pump and mounting bracket assembly to the transom with the mounting nuts. The pump MUST be installed vertically. Connect the hoses to the pump and tighten the fittings secure! y. Insert the harness adaptor into the receptacle of the hydraulic pump. Connect the wires from the opposite end of the adaptor. TAKE CARE to match the color code or the tags made during removal. The wiring diagrams in the Appendix will be helpful if the color code is not apparent or tags were not used during removal. Slide the rubber sleeves over the connections. Place the rubber boot over the large red battery cable, and then connect the wire to the solenoid. Connect the opposite end of the red wire to the positive (+) battery terminal and the large black wire to the solenoid. Connect the opposite end of the black wire to the negative (-) battery terminal. 6-point screws. The only difference between this unit, and the one in the left column, and at the bottom of Page 9-15, is the method of attachment to the valve body. A GOOD WORD: Because the vent screw is left open, the pump is vented, therefore, it is self-bleeding. 9-9 ELECTRIC MOTOR SERVICE SYSTEM "A" TROUBLESHOOTING Before going directly to the electric motor as a source of trouble, check the Typical hydraulic pump with major parts and wiring identified. 9-1 8 TRIM/TILT battery to be sure it is up to a full charge; inspect the wiring for loose connections, corrosion and the like; and take a good look at the control switches and connections for evidence of trouble. The control switches may be eliminated as a source of trouble by connecting the pump directly to the battery for testing purposes. This can be accomplished by disconnecting the black and the blue wires from the solenoid, and then connecting the black wire to the negative (-) battery terminal and the blue wire to the positive (+) terminal. If the pump motor does not run with this direct connection, either the pump motor or the pump and valve assembly is defective. If the pump motor does operate, the problem is in the wiring or the panel switches. DISASSEMBLING Remove the two screws from the top of the motor and reservoir assembly. Scribe a mark on the reservoir and a matching mark on the motor housing as an aid to assembling. Separate the reservoir from the motor. TAKE CARE not to lose the spacers from the armature. Pull the armature out of the frame. Disconnect the ground wire from the upper end cap. Remove the end cap from the frame and field assembly. Hookup to check the continuity between the brush holders and the end cap. The meter should read infinity, indicating a lack of continuity. CLEANING AND TESTING Any sign of oil in the pump motor indicates either the reservoir seal is damaged or the vent screw was closed. If the vent was closed, air could not escape and oil was forced into the pump motor. Testing for a short between a brush pigtail and the end cap. Hookup to check the resistance of the thermal switch. The meter is set on the Rxl scale. SERVICE SYSTEM "A" 9-19 Checking the field coils for a short. CORRECT INCORRECT Armature segments properly cleaned (left), and improperly cleaned (right). Check the amount of wear to the brushes. If they are worn to half their original length, they should be replaced. If the commutator is worn, true it on a lathe, and undercut the mica. Check the armature on a growler for shorts, open windings, or shorted windings. Check the resistance of the thermal switch. If the switch has no continuity or has high resistance, it MUST be replaced. Check between each brush holder and the end cap for a short. There must be no con tin ui ty. GOOD WORDS If there is any measurable high resistance in any of the tests in this step, the frame and field assembly MUST be replaced. Check the field coils for a short, ground, or excessive resistance in the windings. With the tester on Rxl, check for resistance between the green wire and the black jumper wire. Check for resistance between the blue wire and the black jumper wire. Check the black ground wire for resistance. With the tester still on the Rxl scale, check for a short between the black jumper Testing the field coil for continuity. The meter Checking between the commutator segments. Conshould read infinity, indicating no continuity. tinuity must exist. 9-20 TRIM/TILT Method of testing the armature for a short circuit using a growler and a hacksaw blade. If the blade vibrates, the mica must be cleaned out or the armature replaced. wire and ground. A short is indicated if the needle moves to the right. The assembly MUST be replaced. Install the armature into the frame and field assembly. Place the ball bearing on top of the armature shaft, if such a bearing Hydraulic pump with early model solenoid. Other major parts are identified. TEST lEADS COMMUTATOR Armature check for a short: One test light lead on each commutator segment alternately, and the other lead on the armature core. No continuity. is used. Depress the brushes into place, and slide them over the commutator bars. TAKE CARE not to mar the brushes. Position the assembly onto the reservoir housing and work the shaft into the pump. Install the screws into the cap. Be sure to install the ground wire onto one of the screws securing the cap. Tighten the two bolts to the reservoir housing. Hydraulic pump identical to the one in the left column except with later model solenoid. 9-10 SYSTEM ''B" MODELS WITH TWO TRIM CYLINDERS AND ONE TILT CYLINDER DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION This new updated tilt and trim system is similar to the older model with several engineering design changes. The system consists of an electric motor, pump, pressurized fluid reservoir, two sm all trim cylinders, and one large tilt cylinder. As with the earlier system the remote control panel is provided with an UP button and a DOWN button. The third button "TRAILER" is not needed because there is no trim limit switch to by-pass. The by-pass is done with the hydraulic system. An electrical trim position sender (optional equipment) is installed in the electrical circuit. This sender consists of a variable resistor to monitor the current sent to the gauge (if installed) to register the position of the powerhead. SPECIAL WORDS FOR 50HP AND 60HP MODELS 1991 AND ON The power trim system installed on these models is similar to system ''B", but without the two trim cylinders. The electric motor and the single tilt cylinder are identical to those presented in this section and the service procedures are valid for both types of power trim arrangements. An exploded drawing of the electric motor and single tilt cylinder system is shown on Page 9-40. TILT CYLINDER SYSTEM ''8" 9-21 Trimming Outboard Unit UP Depressing the UP button will actuate the "up" solenoid and close the circuit to the electric motor. The electric motor will drive the pump forcing fluid into the "up" side of the two trim cylinders. As the trim cylinders extend, the outboard unit may be raised to the desired angle. The system is designed to grevent the unit from being raised above 20 if the powerhead is operating above approximately 2000 rpm. When the port side trim cylinder is fully extended, a check valve opens allowing the system to be regulated at 425 psi. If the . propeller exceeds 2000 rpm, the propeller thrust is sufficient to build up pressure above 425 psi on the UP side of the system . At this point excess fluid is returned to the reservoir through the check valve, lowering pressure in the system. When the pressure is reduced, the outboard unit will be lowered to the trim limit position. In this manner, the check valve is operating as a tilt limit switch preventing the outboard unit to be 0 operated at a greater angle than the 20 trim limit, IF propeller rpm exceeds 2000 rpm. If the powerhead is cut back below 2000 rpm, the maximum angle may be increased The outboard unit raised to the full up position by Line drawing showing the back side of the System the larger center tilt cylinder. The tilt lock lever has "B" Power Trim/Tilt with major parts identified. been engaged to take the weight from the cylinder. 9-22 TRIM/TILT Controls for the System"B" Power Trim/Tilt does not have a "Trailering" button. Holding the UP button depressed will activate the center trim cylinder to raise the outboard. above the 20° limit. However, if the powerhead accelerates beyond 2000 rpm, the thrust created by the propeller (provided the propeller is deep enough in the water) will cause the trim system to automatically lower the unit back to the 20 ° maximum trim angle. Trimming Outboard Unit DOWN Depressing the DOWN button will close the "down" circuit and actuate the "down" solenoid. The electric motor wlll operate in the opposite direction (from the "up" direction), forcing hydraulic fluid into the "down" side of the tilt cylinder. This action will move the outboard unit downward. When the desired angle of trim is obtained the button is released and movement ceases. The System "B" is pressurized! Therefore, heed the warning decal just below the fill screw and NEVER back off the screw unless the outboard unit is in the full UP position. Trailering Depress the UP button. This action will close the UP circuit and activate the UP solenoid. The two trim cylinders will extend slowly to the full trim up position. Hold the UP button depressed and the tilt cylinder will continue to move the outboard unit upward to the full up position for tr ailering. SAFETY WORDS As a safety measure to prevent accidental movement of the outboard while trailering to and from the water, it is STRONGLY recommended a trailer bracket ALWAYS be used to mechanically lock the outboard unit in the up position. Such a bracket may be purchased at modest cost from the local marine store. With the bracket in place, the unit may be trailered in confidence over rough roads without fear of the outboard being jarred suddenly to the "down" position. 9-11 HYDRAULIC BLEEDING SYSTEM ''B" This trim/tilt unit with two small trim cylinders and one large tilt cylinder is al most a "self-bleeding" system. Actually, the "bleed" operation is accomplished through the fill screw. To check for air in the systern, first activate the UP circuit and raise the out board slightly .with the trim cylinders. Next, exert a heavy, steady, downward force on the lower unit. If the trim rods retract into the trim cylinders more than 1 /8" (3.2 mm) there is air in the system. WARNING TRIM SYSTEM IS PRESSURIZED! DO NOT REMOVE FILL SCRE\V UNLESS OUTBOARD UNIT IS IN CORRECT POSITION. If the trim/tilt pump and motor are installed in the boat, the outboard unit MUST be in the full DOWN position. If the trim/tilt pump and motor are inst ailed between the clamp brackets, the outboard unit MUST be in the full UP position. TIGHTEN FILL SCREW SECURELY BEFORE MOVING OUmOARD. Raise the outboard unit to the full UP position. All three pistons will be fully extended. Once the unit is in the full up position, release the button and engage the tilt lock lever. Now, momentarily depress the UP button just a couple times. Depressing the UP button, for a second or two, will send current through the UP solenoid to the electric motor; the motor will drive the pump; air in the pump will cause it to "squeal"; the pump will draw fluid from the reservoir; the pump will attempt to send fluid to the tilt cylinder; the piston cannot move because it is already extended; the pressure will increase to 425 psi (2930 kPa); the port side pressure relief valve will automatically open; the excess fluid will be returned to the reservoir, purging the system of air. Actually, the air is returned to the reservoir. At · this time, SLOWLY remove the fill screw and the trapped air will escape. Add fluid, if necessary. Understand, a small amount of air will remain on top of the reservoir under the cap. This is caused by the design of the cap and reservoir and as a "cushion" for the system. Remove the tilt lock lever; depress the DOWN button; lower the outboard unit to the full down position. Now, momentarily depress the DOWN button for just a second or two, a couple of times. Depressing the DOWN buttom for a second or two will again activate the system; air in the pump will cause it to "squeal"; the pump will draw fluid from the reservoir; the pump will attempt to send fluid to the "down" side of the til t cylinder; the cylinder cannot move because it is already retracted; the pressure will increase to 425 psi (2930 kPa); the pressure relief valve in the port side trim piston will automatically open; the excess fluid will be returned to the reservoir, purging the system of air. Actually, the air is returned to the reservoir. Raise the outboard to the full up position again. Engage the tilt lock lever. SLOWLY remove the fill screw again and the trapped air will escape. Add fluid, if necessary. Repeat the above procedure two or three times and any and all excess air will be bled from the system. After the air leaves the system, a noticeable change in the sound of the pump motor laboring with the outboard unit in the full up or down position will be heard. As a further check, make the initial test for air again by first raising the outboard BLEEDING SYSTEM ''B" 9-23 with the trim cylinders just a few degrees, and then exerting a steady downward pressure on the lower unit. If the trim rods do not retract into the cylinders more than about 1/8" (3.2 mm), all excess air has been bled from the system. 9-12 HYDRAULIC FLUSHING SYSTEM "B" Only Automatic Transmission Fluid should be used in the power trim system. However, in remote areas or in an emergency, a substitute can be used. SAE 1 OW-30 or lOW-40 oil rated SE was recommended in the past by the manufacturer for earlier model systems. Therefore, these oils should be a workable substitute until the autom atic transmission fluid can be obtained. Once the transmission fluid is available, the system MUST be flushed of the oil before putting the system into service. This can be accomplished by simply draining all the oil from the system. First, raise the outboard unit to the full up position and engage the tilt lock lever. Place a suitable container under the starboard side trim cylinder. Next, SLOWLY remove the fill screw and bleed the pressure from the system. Back off the manual release valve about two full turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE to release any remaining pressure in the system. The manual release valve is used to release pressure in the system to permit raising the outboard manually. Always release the valve SLOWLY. 9-24 TRIM/TILT The zinc anode must be removed to gain access to the Allen screw for draining the system. Next, remove the two bolts securing the zinc anode to the underneath side of the transom bracket, and then remove the anode. Now, remove the Allen plug from the underneath side of the starboard trim cylinder and drain the oil from the system. After all the oil has been drained from the system, install the Allen plug, tighten the manual relief valve fully CLOCKWISE, and then add Automatic Transmission Fluid to the system. Bleed air from the system according to the procedures outlined in Section 9-11. Operate the system several times through the complete cycle from the full down position to the full up position. Drain this first quantity of flushing transmission fluid according to the foregoing procedures. As the fluid is being drained, take special note of the fluid color. If the fluid has a decided crimson tone, the oil has been flushed from the system. However, if the fluid color has a slight brownish tinge, there is still oil in the system. Repeat the flushing procedure until the brownish tinge has disappeared. The system is now thoroughly flushed and ready for service. Replacing the Allen screw after the system has been drained of fluid. 9-13 TROUBLESHOOTING SYSTEM "B" SPECIAL WORDS When moving through the listed troubleshooting procedures, ALWAYS stop and check the system after each task. The problem may have been corrected, intentionally or not. PRELIMINARY CHECKS 1-Check to be sure the manual release valve, located on the starboard transom bracket, is fully tightened, CLOCKWISE. 2-Verify the hydraulic reservoir is filled with fluid. Fluid should be visible when the fill cap is removed. Replenish as required. WARNING TRIM SYSTEM IS PRESSURIZED! DO NOT REMOVE FILL SCREW UNLESS OUTBOARD UNIT IS IN CORRECT POSITION. If the trim/tilt pump and motor are installed in the boat, the outboard unit MUST be in the full DOWN position. If the trim/tilt pump and motor are installed between the clamp brackets, the outboard unit MUST be in the full UP position. TIGHTEN FILL SCREW SECURELY BEFORE MOVING OUTBOARD. 3-Inspect the hydraulic system, hoses and fittings, for leaks. If an external leak is discovered, correct the condition. 4-Check for air in the system and bleed-off if air is suspected. To check for air in the system, first activate the UP circuit and raise the outboard slightly with the trim cylinders. Now, exert a heavy, steady, downward force on the lower unit. If the trim rods retract into the trim cylinders more than 1/8" (3.2 mm) there is air in the system. Raise the outboard unit to the full UP position three or four times. Each time the unit is in the full UP position, engage the tilt lock lever, and then SLOWLY remove the fill screw. Add fluid, if necessary. In this manner any air in the system is forced out through the fill screw opening. 5-If the system fails to hold the outboard unit in the full tilted (trailering) position, service the port side trim rod from the TROUBLESHOOTING SYSTEM "B" 9-25 cylinder. See Section 9-15 for detailed procedures to remove, service, and install the trim cylinder. CRITICAL WORDS DO NOT remove the check valve from the port side trim rod. (The starboard rod does not have a check valve.) This check valve has been preset at the fac tory to operate at a specific pressure. Therefore, removal and installation of the check valve could result in improper operating pressure and possible damage to the system. After the rod has been removed, inspect the check valve for any foreign material and clean as required. If check valve cannot be cleaned satisfactorily, the trim rod and check valve MUST be replaced as a unit. While the rod is out of the cylinder, inspect the 0-ring and replace it with a new one if there is any sign of damage. 6-Inspect the manual release valve 0ring and the valve for damage. See Section 9-15 for detailed procedures to remove, service, and install the manual release valve. 7-If the tilt cylinder fails to raise the outboard unit to the full UP position or fails to move the unit downward proper! y, the tilt cylinder requires attention. See Section 915 for detailed instructions to remove, service, and install the tilt cylinder. 8-If the pump "whines" during operation, there is probably air in the system. Bleed the system according to the procedures in Section 9-1 1. 9-If the motor makes "strange" sounds or seems to be "laboring", the electric motor may require service, see Section 9-15. SPECIAL WORDS If a problem is encountered with the tilt/trim system , it is important to determine, if possible, whether the malfunction is in the hydraulic system or in an electrical circuit. SYMPTOMS OF HYDRAULIC PROBLEM The most common problem in the hydraulic system is failure of an 0-ring to hold pressure. Therefore, if any of the following problems are encountered, see the appropriate service instruction in Section 9-14. a-Outboard will not trim up or down. Fluid level low; manual release valve I}Ot fully closed; pump failure; 0-rings in trim cylinders or in tilt cylinder damaged. b-Outboard trims up, but will not trim down. Tilt cylinder requires service. c-Outboard trims down, but will not trim up. Trim cylinders require service. d-Outboard "shudders" when shifted from one gear to another. Air in the system; internal cylinder leaks --0-rings failure to hold pressure. e-Outboard fails to hold set trim posi tion or will not hold tilted position. 0-rings in trim and tilt cylinder fail to hold pres sure; internal check valve on port cylinder requires cleaning; external leak --fitting or part. f-Outboard begins to trail out (starts to rise slightly) when throttle is backed-off from high speed. Manual release valve not fully closed; air in the system; 0-ring/s in tilt cylinder fail to hold pressure. g-Outboard fails to hold ttim position when unit is operating in reverse gear. Manual release valve not fully closed; 0 rings in trim cylinders fail to hold pressure. h-Outboard fails to return to complete down position or returns partially with jerky motion; air in the system; internal leaks in the cylinders. SYMPTOMS OF ELECTRICAL PROBLEM If any of the following problems are encountered, troubleshoot the electrical system as outlined in this section. a-Outboar.d trims up and down, but the electrical motor "grinds". b-Outboard will not trim up or down. c-Outboard trims up, but will not trim down. d-Outboard trims down, but will not trim up. Manual Operation If the battery is dead, or sufficient power cannot be supplied to the electric motor to drive the hydraulic pump for any number of reasons, the outboard unit may be raised manually. WARNING IF OUTBOARD UNIT IS IN THE UP POSITION WHEN THE MANUAL RELEASE VALVE IS OPENED, THE OUTBOARD WILL DROP TO THE FULL DOWN POSITION RAPIDLY. THEREFORE, ENSURE ALL PERSONS STAND CLEAR. manual lease valve SLOWLY three or four complete turns. 9-26 TRIM/TILT Rotate the manual release valve three to four complete turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE. If the outboard unit is in the down position, it may be raised manually for trim or for trailering. If the unit is in the up position, the unit will drop RAPIDLY to the full down position. PUMP MOTOR TEST SYSTEM "B" This sirnple procedure will determine if the pump motor requires service. a-Disconnect the Blue motor wire from the UP solenoid. Disconnect the Green motor wire from the DOWN solenoid. Disconnect the Black motor ground wire. b-Connect a test lead from the positive terminal of a 12-volt battery to the Blue wire just removed from the solenoid. Connect a test lead from the negative (-) terminal of the battery to the Black ground wire disconnected. The motor should run. Leave the ground wire connected, and change the positive (+) battery lead to the Green wire removed from the DOWN solenoid. The motor should run. If the motor fails either one or both of these tests, it requires service or replacement. To remove and install a System "B" motor or pump, see Section 9-15. The System Releasing pressure by backing out the re "8" pump CANNOT be serviced. Therefore if troubleshooting indicates the pump ha.. failed, it MUST be replaced. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING SYSTEM "B" SPECIAL WORDS When moving through the listed electrical troubleshooting procedures, ALWAYS stop and check the system after each task before proceeding with further troubleshooting. The problem may have been corrected, intentionally or not. "TRAILER" CIRCUIT INOPERATIVE "UP" CIRCUIT OK 1-With an ohmmeter on the Rxl scale, check for continuity between the "small" terminal on the lower solenoid (the terminal with the Blue/White wire connected), and the TRAILER button terminal with the Blue/White wire connected. If continuity is not indicated, the wire is open. 2-If the wire checked OK in Step 1 disconnect all battery leads from the batte.. ry. Check for continuity across trailer button terminals with trailer button depressed. If continuity is NOT indicated, the trailer button is at fault and must be replaced. "UP" AND "TRAILER" CIRCUITS BOTH INOPERATIVE "DOWN" CIRCUIT OK BEFORE spending time with a voltmeter and making other tests, check ALL connections on the UP solenoid and all other wiring for loose or corroded connections, frayed insulation, or a break in a wire. 1-Connect the Red voltmeter lead to "small" terminal of the lower solenoid (terminal with the Blue/White wire connected). Connect the Black voltmeter lead to the ground terminal of the bottom solenoid (the terminal with the Black lead connected). Depress the TRAILER button. If NO voltage is indicated, there is an open circuit in the Blue/White wire and Purple/White (or Purple) wires between the "UP" solenoid and the trim buttons. If voltage IS indicated, proceed with Step 2. 2-Leave the Black voltmeter lead con nected to ground as in Step 1. Connect the Red voltmeter lead to the large terminal with two Red leads connected on the lower solenoid. If NO voltage is indicated, check for loose or corroded connection at the "large" terminal with the two RED leads connected on the lower solenoid. Also check for loose connection or corrosion at the same terminal on the upper solenoid. Check the condition of the RED lead connecting these two terminals of each solenoid together. If voltage IS indicated, proceed with Step 3. 3-Leave the Black voltmeter lead connected to ground as in Steps 1 and 2. Connect the RED voltmeter lead to the "small" terminal of the lower solenoid (the terminal with the Black wire connected). Depress the TRAILER button. If NO voltage is indica ted, the lower solenoid (the UP solenoid) is defective and must be replaced. If voltage IS indicated proceed with Step 4. 4-Inspect the lower solenoid (the UP solenoid), for loose or corroded connections. Remove the lower mounting bolt on the lower solenoid and check for paint, grease, dirt, corrosion, and the like preventing the connecting wire from making a good ground. Install the bolt. If the UP and TRAILER circuits still do not function, disconnect the battery leads at the battery. Label the wires leading to the lower solenoid, or draw a quick sketch before disconnecting any of the leads. Remove all connections leading to the solenoid and remove the two attaching bolts. Bench test the solenoid according to the following procedures Solenoid Bench Tests a-Connect a 12-volt battery across the two smaller terminals. The ohmmeter should register 0-ohms (zero) indicating continuity and an audible "click" should be heard. The "click" will verify the plunger in the solenoid is being drawn up making contact with the inside terminal to close the circuit. b-If the ohmmeter indicates a resistance in the solenoid and/or a "click" is not heard, the solenoid is defective and must be replaced. TROLELESHOOTING SYSTEM "8" 9-27 [QJ[QJ[Q][Q] Schematic drawing to show the hookup using a 12volt battery supply and ohmmeter to test the solenoid, as described in the text. If the solenoid checked OK, test the charge condition of the battery and inspect all cables and leads. UP CIRCUIT INOPERATIVE TRAILER CIRCUIT OK BEFORE spending time with a voltmeter and making other tests, check ALL connections on the UP solenoid and all other wiring for loose or corroded connections, frayed insulation, or a break in a wire. Solenoid installation on the powerhead. The top solenoid controls the DOWN movement and the lower solenoid controls the UP movement. 9-28 TRIM/TILT CONTROL HANDLE PUSH BUTTON TRIM SWITCH TO lNSHdJMENT PANEL ENGINE STARTER MOTOR SOLENOID Exploded drawing of the control handle. This illustration and the wiring diagram in the next column will be helpful during the troubleshooting work. 1-With an ohmmeter on the Rxl scale, check for continuity between the "small" terminal on the lower solenoid (the terminal with the Blue/White wire connected). If continuity is NOT indicated, there is an open wire in the circuit between these two connections. If continuity IS indicated, proceed with Step 2. 2-If a push button type switch is being tested connect the RED voltmeter lead to the UP button on the trim switch (the terminal with the YELLOW wire connected). If a toggle switch is being tested, connect the RED voltmeter lead to the center terminal (the terminal with the Brown/White or Red/Purple wire connected). Connect the Black voltmeter lead to a good ground such as the mounting bolt of the lower solenoid. Depress the UP trim button. If NO voltage is indicated, the trim switch is defective and must be replaced. If voltage IS indicated, proceed to Step 3. 3-Check for poor or corroded connections at the UP button or toggle switch. If the UP circuit is still inoperative, replace the UP button or switch. Functional diagram of the System "B". This drawing and the one in the left column will be helpful during the troubleshooting work. DOWN, UP, AND TRAILER CIRCUITS INOPERATIVE BEFORE spending time with a voltmeter and making other tests, check ALL connections on both solenoids and all other wiring for loose or corroded connections, frayed insulation, or a break in a wire. 1-Check the two 20 amp in-line fuses, as shown in the two accompanying illustrations. Replace the defective fuse and again test the UP, DOWN, and TRAILER operation of the trim/tilt system. If the fuses were not "blown", proceed with Step 2. 2-Connect the RED lead of a voltmeter to the "large" terminal of the lower solenoid (the terminal with the two Red wires connected). Connect the Black lead of the voltmeter to the "small" terminal of the lower solenoid (the terminal with the Black wire connected). The voltmeter should indicate close to 12-volts. If NO voltage is indicated, check the battery leads and the Red leads between the starter motor and the "large" terminal on the upper solenoid (the terminal with 2 Red wires connected) and the same terminal on TROl.ELESHOOTING SYSTEM 118" 9-29 the lower solenoid (the terminal with the two Red wires connected). Check for poor connections, corrosion or an open circuit. If battery voltage IS indicated, proceed to Step 3. 3-Leave the Black voltmeter lead connected to ground as in Step 2. Connect the Red voltmeter lead to the "small" terminal on the lower solenoid (the terminal with the Blue/White wire connected. Depress the TRAILER button and check for close to 12-volts. If battery voltage is indicated, check the Black ground wires at the solenoids (the upper and lower mounting bolts with Black wires attached.), PARTICULARLY the Black motor lead from the harness, grounded at the top mounting bolt. If this wire is properly grounded, and circuits are still inoperative, the pump motor may be faulty. Refer to Chapter 7 for troubleshooting electric motors. If NO voltage is indicated, proceed to Ste p 4. 4-Leave the Black voltmeter lead connected to ground as in Step 2 and 3. Connect the Red voltmeter lead to the TRAILER button (the terminal with the Brown/White and Red/Purple wires connected). If battery voltage IS indicated, there is an open circuit in each wire. (Green/White, Blue/White, and Purple/White), between the trim buttons (or toggle switch), and the trim motor. Check for pinched or severed wires and inspect all trim harness connectors for loose or corroded connections. If NO voltage is indicated, proceed with Step 5. 5-Verify voltage is being supplied to the controls by performing the following checks: a-DO NOT start the engine, but turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. Use a voltmeter and check for voltage at any instrument. b-If close to 12-vol ts IS indica ted, there is an open circuit in the wire between the TRAILER button (the terminal with the Brown/White and Red/Purple wires connected), and the "B" terminal on the back of the ignition switch (the terminal with the Grey wire connected), as shown in the accompanying illustration. c-If NO voltage is indica ted, proceed to Step 6. 6-Check for continuity between the "large" terminal on the starter solenoid (the terminal with the Red wire connected), and the "B" terminal on the back of the ignition switch. Check for open wires, loose or corroded connections. Location of one of two in-line fuses on powerheads Location of the other in-line fuse on powerheads equipped with the System "B" Power Trim/Tilt unit. equipped with the System "B" Power Trim/Tilt unit. DOWN CIRCUIT INOPERATIVE UP CIRCUIT OK BEFORE spending time with a voltmeter and making other tests, check ALL connections on the DOWN solenoid and all other wiring for loose or corroded connections, frayed insulation, or a break in the wire. 1-Connect the Red voltmeter lead to the "small" terminal of the upper solenoid (the terminal with the Green/White wire connected). Connect the Black voltmeter lead to the top mounting bolt of the upper solenoid (the ground terminal with the Black wire connected). Depress the DOWN trim button or toggle switch. If NO voltage is indicated, leave the Black voltmeter lead in place and connect the Red voltmeter lead to the DOWN button (the terminal with the Green/White wire connected). Again, depress the DOWN button. If close to 12-volts IS indicated,. there is an open wire between the DOWN push button (or toggle switch), and the "small" terminal on the upper solenoid (the terminal with the Green/White wire connected). If NO voltage is indicated, proceed with Step 2. 2-Leave the Black voltmeter lead connected as in Step 1. Connect the Red voltmeter lead to the DOWN terminal of the push button (the terminal with the Red/Purple wire connected. If testing a toggle switch, connect the Red voltmeter lead to the center terminal (the terminal with the Brown/White or Red/Purple wire connected). 0 [Q][Q] [QJ[Q) Functional diagram depicting a battery hooked up directly to one of the solenoids for testing. If close to 12-volts IS indicated, the trim switch is faulty and must be replaced. If NO voltage is indicated, check for loose or corroded connections at the testing points in this step. Test the DOWN circuit for operation. If still inoperative, proceed with Step 3. 3-Leave the Black voltmeter lead in place as in Step 1 and 2. Connect the Red voltmeter lead to the "large" terminal on the upper solenoid (the terminal with the two Red wires connected). If NO voltage is indica ted, there is an open circuit between this terminal and the positive battery terminal. Check the entire length of the wires for damage to insulation, evidence of sparking, loose or corroded connections. If close to 12-vol ts IS indica ted, proceed with Step 4. 4-Leave the Black voltmeter lead connected as in Step 3. Connect the Red voltmeter lead to the "small" terminal on the upper solenoid (the terminal with the Green/White wire connected). Depress the DOWN trim button or toggle switch. If NO voltage is indicated the DOWN solenoid is defective and must be replaced. If close to 12-volts IS indicated, proceed with Step 5. 5-Tag the wires or make a quick sketch, and then remove the DOWN solenoid. Test the solenoid according to the following procedures. Solenoid Bench Tests 6-The following simple quick test can be performed to check the integrity of the solenoid: a-Connect a 12-volt volt battery across the two smaller terminals. The ohmmeter should register 0-ohms (zero) indicating continuity and an audible "click" should be heard. The "click" will verify the plunger in the solenoid is being drawn up making contact with the inside terminal to close the circuit. b-If the ohmmeter indicates a resistance in the solenoid and/or a "click" is not heard, the solenoid is defective and must be replaced. If the solenoid checked OK, test the charge condition of the battery and inspect all cables and leads. SERVICE SYSTEM '13" 9-3 I 9-14 TRIM/TILT SYSTEM SERVICE SYSTEM "B" The following procedures provide detailed instructions to remove, service, and install various parts of the System "B" Hydraulic Trim/Tilt system. Each small section has a heading to identify the part being serviced. The hydraulic pump in the System "B" cannot be serviced. Therefore, if troubleshooting leads to a faulty pump, without question, then the unit must be replaced. Other parts, such as the trim cylinders, tilt cylinder, reservoir screen, and electric motor, may be serviced. Some may be removed and/ or serviced without disturbing other parts. The trim cylinders, and the large tilt cylinder may be serviced without removing the complete system from the clamp bracket. The pump and electric motor may be removed after the starboard clamp bracket is moved clear. SAFETY WORDS As a safety measure to prevent accidental movement of the outboard while work is being performed, it is STRONGLY recommended a few minutes be used to make a safety support tool as shown in the accompanying illustration. The tool may be made from any metal bar stock or small channel iron of suitable size, with a 3/8" (9.53 mm) hole drilled through at each end and 14" (35.6 em) apart, as shown. Cut-off the head of a 3/8" bolt about 2-1/2" (6.4 em) long. Drill a hole through each bolt for a cotter pin. Secure the bolts through the holes made in the bar stock with two nuts, one on each side of the bar. The tool is now ready for installation, one end through the clamp bracket and the other end through the tilt stop bracket. Secure each end of the tool in place with a washer and cotter pin. The trim/tilt system may now be serviced or other work performed with confidence and in safety. The following procedures outline detailed instructions for removal of the complete trim/tilt system from the outboard unit, disassembling as far as practical of each major part, cleaning and inspecting, assembling, and installation back on the boat. If the damaged part is discovered, the disassembling work may be stopped, a replacement installed, the unit assembled, and installed between the clamp brackets. 9-15 TRIM/TILT SYSTEM REMOVAL PRELIMINARY TASKS 1-Raise the outboard unit to the full up position. If the hydraulic system is inoperative, first rotate the manual release valve COUNTERCLOCKWISE about three complete turns, and then manually lift the unit to the full up position. "Home made" safety support tool to hold the outboard in the full up position while performing work on the Power Trim/Tilt unit. The tool can be made from a piece of strap material (left), or a small channel (right), as described in the text. 9-32 TRIM/TILT 2-Set the tilt lock lever in place. Install the safety support tool as described under "Safety Words" at the beginning of this section. Secure one end of the tool to the clamp bracket with a washer and cotter pin. Secure the other end to the tilt stop bracket in a similar manner, as shown. 3-Disconnect the electrical leads at both battery terminals. Tag, and then disconnect the wiring at the upper and lower solenoids under the powerhead cowl. 4-Remove the harness retainer and any other clamps securing wiring running to the electric motor. 5-Obtain a large C-clamp and a block of wood, approximately 4" to 6" (10.2 x 21.2 em) square and about 2" (5.1 em) thick. Support the outboard unit by clamping the block of wood on the inside of the transom up hard against the swivel bracket tube with the large C-clamp, as shown. SERVICE SYSTEM '13" 9-33 6-If the unit being serviced is equipped with thru-the-tilt tube steering, remove the steering cable retaining nut from the end of the tilt tube. Remove the tilt tube nut. 7-Remove the two outboard mounting bolts and the three bolts securing the trim/tilt assembly to the starboard bracket. Carefully move the starboard transom bracket away far enough for the manual release valve to clear when the trim/tilt system is removed. REMOVAL 8-Drive out the cross pin securing the retaining pin for the tilt piston at the upper end. 9-After the cross pin is free, push out the piston retaining pin. DO NOT allow the cylinder to fall. 10-Support the trim/tilt system. Remove the three mounting bolts securing the system to the port side clamp bracket. Lower the system from the outboard unit. Pull the wires out with the system. 11-Clamp the trim/tilt system in a vise with the jaws gripping on the anode installed on the underneath side of the system. GOOD WORDS The system is now ready for any and all work necessary to restore the trim/tilt unit to satisfactory performance. MANUAL RELEASE VALVE FIRST, THESE WORDS Only on rare occasion, would the manual release valve need to be removed and serviced. The most probable cause might be the attack of varnish in the hydraulic fluid on the 0-rings. Any moisture in the fluid would also be harmful to the 0-rings. There is a remote possibility the passageway of the valve may require cleaning. FIRST, perform PRELIMINARY Steps 1 thru 7 of this section. 12-After the starboard clamp bracket is clear or the complete system removed, then back out the manual release valve by rotating it COUNTERCLOCKWISE until it is free and can be withdrawn. SERVICE SYSTEM "B" 9-35 OIL RESERVOIR COVER The reservoir cover would only be removed if there is evidence the 0-ring is leaking (fluid weeping from around the cover), or a suspicion exists the fluid is contaminated. The cover may be removed with the system still installed on the clamp brackets. An air gap exists in the reservoir cover as a "cushion" for the system. Therefore, very little fluid will be spilled when the cover is removed. 13-If the system has not been removed from the clamp brackets, perform PRELIMINARY Steps 1 thru 7 of this section. After all pressure has been released, remove the bolts securing the cap to the reservoir. (The accompanying illustration was taken with the system removed from the clamp bracket.) Use the proper size socket with an extension to reach the bolts on the back side. Lift the cap free of the reservoir. The filler tube and the cover are a one piece unit. Therefore, rotate the filler tube in the clamp bracket hole, and then withdraw the tube from the bracket. TRIM CYLINDER SERVICE PORT OR STARBOARD SPECIAL WORDS If either or both of the trim cylinders are to be serviced without removing the system from the clamp brackets, perform PRELl MINAR Y Steps 1 and 2 of this section. 14-Using a spanner wrench with the two tips indexed into the two recesses in the cylinder end cap, remove the end cap by rotating the cap in a counterclockwise direction until it is free. 15-After the end cap is free, carefully withdraw the piston straight up and out of the cylinder. ® Carefully pull the piston and rod assembly straight out of the cylinder, with the end cap on the piston rod. 17-Clamp the rod in a vise equipped with soft jaws with the jaws gripping the upper end. Tighten the vise JUST good and TILT CYLINDER SERVICE SPECIAL WORDS If the tilt cylinder is to be serviced without removing the system from the clamp brackets, perform PRELIMINARY Steps 1 and 2 of this section. 16-Remove the end cap using a spanner wrench with the points indexed into the recesses of the end cap. Rotate the end cap COUNTERCLOCKWISE until it is free of the cylinder. ROD END (7) ® 0-RING CHECK VALVE ASSEMBLIES snug to prevent any possible damage to the piston end. Remove the rod end using a spanner wrench and rotating the rod end COUNTERCLOCKWISE until it is free. If the rod end refuses to loosen, heat may have to be applied to the upper end of the rod UNDER the piston. CRITICAL WORDS Do not let the check valve assemblies fall when removing the rod end, or the washer. Lift the rod end straight up and out of the piston. Carefully remove the washer, and then the check valve assemblies. Slide the piston free of the rod. If necessary, slide the end cap off the rod. 18-Disassemble the end cap by first removing the retaining ring, then the washer. The scraper/seal can now be popped out with a small screwdriver. Remove the 0ring. 19-The check valves on the back side of the piston may be removed, if there is evidence the springs do not function properly. Removal is accomplished by first driving the roll pin out using a fine punch or nail and hammer, and then removing the check valve including the spring and ball. ELECTRIC MOTOR SERVICE AND HYDRAULIC PUMP REMOVAL The electric motor would be removed if troubleshooting leads to the motor as the source of the problem. The pump will be SERVICE SYSTEM ''B" 9-37 PI STON ® removed with the motor and the two will be separated after removal. The pump CANNOT be serviced. Therefore, if troubleshooting indicates the pump has failed, it MUST be replaced. SPECIAL WORDS The electric motor and the pump may be removed from the trim/tilt assembly without removing the complete unit from the clamp bracket. To remove the motor and pump without disturbing other parts, perform the PRELl MINAR Y tasks to move the starboard clamp bracket clear as outlined in Steps 1 thru 7 of this section. After the clamp bracket is clear, proceed with Step 20. 20-Remove the two bolts securing the pump to the trim/tilt assembly. Lift the electric motor, with the pump attached, upward and free of the trim/ tilt assembly base. STOP Before separating the electric motor from the pump, scribe a mark on the motor end cap and a matching mark on the motor case as an aid to assembling. 21-Remove the wire clamp from one of the thru-bolts. Remove the two thru-bolts passing through the electric motor into the pump, and then separate the electric motor from the pump. As the electric motor case is being lifted, exercise CARE not to drop and damage the armature. CLEANING AND INSPECTING TRIM/TILT SYSTEM GENERAL PRACTICE Check all 0-rings for any damage. Actually, good shop practice would dictate new 0-rings be installed anytime a part is disassembled exposing an 0-ring. Pump and Motor The pump CANNOT be serviced. Therefore, if troubleshooting indicates the pump has failed, it MUST be replaced. The electric motor is very similar to other electric motors used on the outboard unit. Brush replacement, armature testing, and field tests may be made in the same manner. Therefore, the motor can be checked, tested, and serviced following the procedures outlined in Chapter 7 for other motors. Manual release valve ready for installation. One style valve has two D-rings and the other has three. The valves are NOT interchangeable. Check the mating surfaces of the motor and pump to ensure they are clean and undamaged. A "Pump Seal Kit" is available at the local marine store. This kit includes three 0-rings and a flat ring for the hydraulic pump. Manual Release Valve One style manual release valve has three 0-rings and the other style has only two. The valves are NOT interchangeable. Therefore, be sure to replace the valve with the same style as the one removed. PORT SIDE TRIH ROD The check valve in the end of the port trim cylinder MUST not be removed. The valve is preset at the factory. Trim Cylinder DO NOT remove the check valve from the port side trim rod. (The starboard rod does not have a check valve.) This check valve has been preset at the factory to operate at a specific pressure. Therefore, removal and installation of the check valve could result in improper operating pressure and possible damage to the system. If the check valve cannot be cleaned satisfactorily, the trim piston and check valve MUST be replaced as a unit. A new piston will have a plastic screen over the top of the check valve. This screen pre vents foreign material from entering the check valve. However, if the old piston does not have this plastic screen, then re move the plastic screen from the new re placement piston and install it into the cylinder WITHOUT the screen. If the old piston has the screen, then install the new piston with the plastic screen over the check valve. Inspect the interior of the cylinder for any sign of scoring or roughness. Inspect the seal located in the recess of the end cap. If the seal is damaged or fails to keep the trim piston rod clean, replace the seal. This is accomplished by first prying the old seal from the top of the cap with a screwdriver, and then pushing the new seal into place with the seal lip facing UP. Tilt Cylinder A "Tilt Cylinder 0-ring Kit" is available at modest cost. In addition to the five 0rings needed for complete replacement on the tilt cylinder, the kit also includes a new scraper/seal and a washer used next to one of the 0-rings. Inspect the balls and the springs underneath the rod end for foreign material. Inspect the interior of the cylinder for any sign of scoring or roughness. Examine the check valves and clean them thoroughly of any foreign material. Clean all parts with solvent, and then blow them dry with compressed air. ASSEMBLING/INSTALLATION SYSTEM "B" TRIM/TILT FIRST, THESE WORDS The work area MUST be clean. All parts MUST be absolutely clean and dirt free prior SERVICE SYSTEM "8" 9-39 I 24 15-.. 14-..J I I I I 1 HOUS ING 2 ALLEN PLUG3 MANUAL RELEASE VALVE 4 0-R ING .239" (6.07 nm) ID5 0-R ING .208" (5.28 nm) ID6 0-RING .1 14" (2.90 nm) ID7 0-R ING .989" (25.12 nm) ID8 SHAFT9 TR IM ROD ASSEMBLY (STARBOARD) 10 ANODE PLATE11 WASHER 12 BOLT13 STR IKER PLATE14 LOCKWASHER 15 NUT16 TILT CYLINDER ASSEMBLY17 CROSS PIN18 RETAINING PIN19 PIN20 0-RING 1.248" 31.70 nm) ID21 TR IM ROD ASSEMBLY (PORT) (With check valve.) 22 0-R ING .612" (15.54 nm) ID23 0-R ING 1.475" (37.47 nm) ID24 CAP25 SEAL26 0-R ING 2.864" (72.75 nm) ID27 WASHER 28 BOLT ®-11 1-12 29303132333435363738 3940 41 424344454647484950515253 RESERVO IR COVER 0-RING .583" (14.81 nm) ID FILL SCREW ROUND MOTOR ASSEMBLY BOLT LOCKWASHER 0-RING 2.739" (69.57 nm) ID 0-R ING 2.614" (66.40 nm) ID PUMP ASSEMBLY 0-R ING 2.739" (69.57 nm) ID(Not used on some units.) SQUARE MOTOR ASSEMBLY SQUARE RING (Used when end frame cap has groove.) GASKET(Used when NO groove in end frame cap.) BOLT ALLEN BOLT LOCKWASHER END FRAHE CAP 0-RING or FLAT RING 0-R ING 2.739" {69.57 nm) ID 0-R ING 2.614 (66.40 nm) ID FLAT RING PUMP ASSEMBLY SCREEN (If used . WASHER (If screen is used. ) SCREW (If screen is used. ) Exploded drawing of the System "B" Power Trim/Tilt with major parts identified. 9-40 TRIM/TILT WIRE HARNESS RESERVO IR TR IM ROD FI LL SCREW I I I I I DRIVE O I 1 I I IMOTOR ! FRAME I 1 I : I ' I I I " ........ ' " ..I MANUAL RELI EF VALVE BRUSH II I SPOOL VALVE ASSEMBLY HAN IFOLD Exploded drawing of the single tilt cylinder and electric motor installed on 50hp and 60hp models, 1991 and on. SERVICE SYSTEM 118" 9-4 1 \\ \ \ END ..__ -CAP-------,\\ \\\\ \ Exploded drawing of a "roWld" electric motor used with the System "B" Power Trim/Tilt. GASKET LOWER CONNECTOR SLEEVE 1 BRUSH"\SPRING \{ I END CAP ----------1I FRAME WASHER ARMATURE Exploded drawing of a "square" electric motor used with the System "B" Power Trim/Tilt. ring sizes given, will be an aid to installing the proper ring into the correct groove. 1/8" = 3.2mm3/8" = 9.5mm15/16" = 23.8mm2-1/2" = 63.5mm "Home made" tool to assist in holding the brushes 9-42 TRIM/TILT ARMATURE SHAFT HOTORCASE clear when the armature is inserted into the case. CARDBOARD CD to installation. The slightest bit of foregin material could cause the system to malfunction. All 0-rings and seals must be coated with automatic transmission fluid just before they are installed. Check with the exploded diagrams to ensure the correct 0-ring is being installed in the proper place. An incorrect 0-ring installation could cause the system to malfunction. PUMP AND MOTOR The following procedures pickup the work after a new pump has been obtained, and/or the electric motor has been rebuilt and is ready to be assembled and mated with the hydraulic pump. The accompanying exploded drawings of the "Round" motor, the "Square" motor, and the power trim/tilt assembly, with the 0 1-Slide the cardboard tube into the case, as shown in the accompanying illustration. Place a NEW 0-ring into place on the end cap. installation. Set the cap aside, ready for SPECIAL WORDS As an aid to holding the brushes clear when the armature is inserted into the case, a special tool may be made as shown in the accompanying illustration. 2-Apply a light coating of SAE lOW motor oil to the upper end of the armature shaft. Place the tool mentioned in the previous paragraph in place to hold the brushes apart when the armature is installed. Push the armature up into the motor case until the upper end of the armature makes contact with the brush holder tool. Exert just a little upward pressure on the armature and at the same time, slide the brush holder out. The armature will move just a little further into the case and the brushes will bear against the armature in a proper manner. 3-Place the end cap onto the case with the mark on the cap aligned with the mark on the case. (These are the marks made just prior to disassembly, as instructed in Step 20.) 4-Install NEW 0-rings onto the pump. If the square motor pump is used, install the flat ring into the groove, as shown in the accompanying exploded drawing. Install a NEW seal into the recess of the upper end of the pump surface. The armature shaft passes through this seal. Coat the 0-rings and the seal with Automatic Transmission Fluid. 5-Grasp the motor case with the thumb and forefinger holding the end cap in place, and position it over the pump. Push down on the motor case with the lower end of the armature passing through the pump seal. The chamfered part of the pump MUST be on the same side as the bolt hole opposite the electrical fitting, as shown. Hold the electric motor and end cap with one hand ID Dimension of 0-Rings ROUND PUHP HOTOR SQUARE PUHP HOTOR MM 66 .40 69 .57 66 .40 66 .40 69 .57 66 .40 RING 66 .40 CD SERVICE SYSTEM ''B" 9-43 and with the other hand rotate the pump ever so slightly until the hex end of the armature shaft indexes with the recess in the pump. When this occurs, the end surface of the motor case will be firm against the surface of the pump. 6-Slide the sealing washer onto the thru-bolt with the head. The rubber surface of the washer MUST face down to bear against the surface of the end cap. Start to thread the bolt into the pump, but DO NOT tighten it at this time. Slide a regular washer on the other thru-bolt, and then the sealing washer with the rubber surface facing DOWN to bear against the surface of the end cap. Start to thread the second bolt into the pump. A slight shifting of the motor case or the pump may be necessary. Tighten thru-bolts securely. 7-Secure the electrical lead to the thru-bolt without the head, using first a washer, then the wire clamp, another washer, and finally the nut. Tighten the nut securely. Apply a coating of Quicksilver Liquid Neoprene around the thru-bolts, around the electrical connection, and at the seam between the electric motor and the pump, as a waterproof measure. 9-44 TRIM/TILT Sealing , SPECIAL WORDS If the pump and motor were removed after the trim/tilt system was removed, 8-Feed the electrical wire up through the outboard clamp bracket, if the motor and pump were removed with the trim/ tilt assembly remaining on the clamp brackets. Move the assembled pump and motor into position on the trim/tilt assembly. Carefully insert the pump into the power trim assembly housing, with the chamfer (or hole) on the lower end of the pump facing TOWARD the tilt cylinder. Apply a light coating of Quicksilver Perfect Seal (or equivalent) to the threads of the attaching bolts. Slide a lockwasher onto each bolt. Secure the pump on the housing with the attaching hardware. Tighten the bolts securely. Apply a coating of Quicksilver Liquid Neoprene on the seam between the pump and the housing as a waterproof measure. 9-If the trim/tilt assembly was not removed from the brackets, carefully move the starboard transom bracket into place with the manual release valve passing through the opening in the bracket. Apply a light coating of Loctite Grade "A" on the threads of five bolts. Secure the bracket in place with the two outboard mounting bolts, and the three bolts through bracket into the power trim assembly. Tighten the bolts to a torque value of 30 ft lbs. (40.7 Nm). continue with the assembling work, and then install the system according to the procedures outlined in Steps 25 thru 30. If the pump and motor were removed with the trim/tilt system remaining in place between the clamp brackets, perform Steps 8 thru 11. NUT .... WASHER ', ELECTR IC MOTOR SERVICE SYSTEM ''B" 9-4 5 10-Remove the large C-clamp and block of wood. 11-Remove the fill screw from the port side bracket and replenish the reservoir with Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) Type A or AF (as used in Ford manufactured automobiles), until the fluid is visible through the opening. Bleed the system of air. See Section 9-11. SPECIAL WORDS Only Automatic Transmission Fluid should be used in the power trim system . However, in remote areas or in an emergency, a substitute can be used. SAE 1 OW-30 or lOW-40 oil rated SE was recommended in the past by the manufacturer for earlier model systems. Therefore, these oils should be a workable substitute until the automatic transmission fluid can be obtained. Once the transmission fluid is available, the system MUST be flushed of the oil. See Section 9-12 to flush the system. TILT CYLINDER 12-Assemble the end cap by first working a NEW 0-ring over the outside of the cap and up under the lip. Next, install a 9-46 TRIM/TILT O ..RING 2o06711 (52o50 Dill) ® 0-R ING o30711(7o79 Dill) 0-RING o66111( 1 6o79 Dill) 1 CHECK VALVE ASSY. 0_. , __ 0-RI NG 1 o 95711.. (490 71 Dill)/ PIN CHECK VALVE ASSY. NEW 0-ring into the recess of the upper side. Insert the scraper/seal into the recess, followed by the washer. Secure them in place with the retaining ring. Clamp the upper end of the rod in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Tighten the vise JUST good and snug to prevent damage to the rod. Coat the rod with automatic transmission fluid, and then slide the end cap onto the rod. 13-If the cup was removed from the cylinder, install the large 0-ring over the outside of the cup and a small one in the center from the inside. Slide the cup into the cylinder with the flat surface going in first. 14-If the valves on the back side of the piston were removed, install the parts as shown in the accompanying illustration. Secure each valve assembly in place by driving in a roll pin. 15-Position the cylinder onto the end of the rod. Assemble the seven check valves in place on the end of the piston with each ball going into the recess first, followed by the valve, and then the spring. After they are all in position, CAREFULLY lay the washer 0-R ING o30711@ (7o79 Dill) 0 0 0 -cuP 0-R ING 1 o95711 .--(490 70 Dill) @) ® on top of the springs. Now, slowly slide the rod end, with NEW 0-rings in place, down through the center of the washer without disturbing the valve assemblies. Thread the rod end into the end of the rod. Tighten the rod end securely with the spanner wrench. CHECK VALVE ASSEMBL IES 16-After NEW 0-rings have been installed and all parts coated with Automatic Transmission Fluid, slide the piston and rod assembly into the cylinder. 17-Secure the piston and rod assembly in the cylinder by tightening the end cap with a spanner wrench. SPECIAL WORDS If the tilt cylinder was serviced without removing the trim/tilt system from the clamp brackets, perform Steps 18 and 19. If the tilt cylinder was serviced after the tilt/trim system was removed, continue with the assembling work, and then install the system according to the procedures outlined in Steps 25 thru 30. 18-Connect the electrical leads to a 12volt battery. Depress the UP button to extend the piston to the full up position. Start the retaining pin into the port transom with the non-slotted end going in first. Now, observe how the hole for the cross pin is aligned with the slot in the end of the retaining pin. Also note how the cross pin hole on one side of the retaining is chamfered and the other is not. Align the slot approximately with the hole in the end of the tilt piston, and then push the retaining through the port bracket, then the end of the tilt piston, and finally through the starboard bracket. Once the retaining pin is installed, rotate the pin very SLOWLY with a screwdriver until the hole in the retaining pin is aligned with the hole in the end of the tilt piston. Once the hole is close to alignment, a small punch may be used through the hole in the piston end to rotate the SERVICE SYSTEM "8" 9-47 retaining pin. After the hole is aligned, drive the cross pin into place with the smooth end of the cross pin going in first. Continue to drive the pin with a hammer and punch until the pin is flush with the surface of the piston end. the opening. Bleed the system of air. See Section 9-11 . Using a small punch and hammer to drive the cross pin into place, AFTER the hole has been aligned as shown in the line drawing on this page. TRIM CYLINDERS 20-After NEW 0-rings have been installed, coat the surface of the piston, the 0rings, and the seal lip with Automatic Transmission Fluid. Carefully slide the piston into the cylinder. 21-Thread the end cap onto the end of the cylinder and then tighten the cap securely with a spanner wrench. Lubricate the piston rod with Anti-Corrosion Grease. 9-48 TRIM/TILT CROSS PIN HOLE SLOT FAC ING PORT SIDE CHAMFER RETAINING PIN FACES OUT (AFT) ..:TON END CROSS PIN KNURLED END FACES OUT (AFT) The retaining pin can be rotated with a large screwdriver until the hole in the pin is aligned with the hole in the end of the tilt piston. The chamfered hole in the end of the piston must face OUTWARD. If it does not, remove the retaining pin and rotate the piston in the cylinder 1/2 turn. 19-Remove the fill screw from the port side bracket and replenish the reservoir with Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) Type A. or AF (as used in Ford manufactured automobiles), until the fluid is visible through If the tilt/trim system was not removed from the clamp brackets, remove the support safety tool by removing the cotter pins and pulling it free. Release the tilt lock lever, and then operate the system through several full cycles from full up to full down. Check the fluid level through the fill screw opening and add fluid as required. If the trim/tilt system was removed from the brackets continue with the assembly work and then install the assembly according to Steps 25 thru 30. FLUID RESERVOIR COVER 22-After a NEW 0-ring has been installed, position the cap in place on the reservoir. If the trim/tilt system was not removed from the clamp brackets, position the upper end of the fill tube in the clamp bracket hole, and then rotate the cover into position. Secure the cover with the attaching hardware. Use the proper size socket with an extension to install the bolts on the back side. Fill the system with fluid. Install and tighten the fill screw securely. Remove the support safety tool by removing the cotter pins and pulling it free. Release the tilt lock lever, and then operate the sytem through several full cycles from full up to full down. Check the fluid lev..l through the fill screw opening and add flu1d as required. SERVICE SYSTEM '1£3" 9-4 9 Bleed the system. See Section 9-11. If the trim/tilt system was removed from the brackets, continue with the assembly work and then install the unit according to Steps 25 thru 30. MANUAL RELEASE VALVE INSTALLATION 23-Slide new 0-rings into place on the manual release valve. 9-50 TRIM/TILT SPECIAL WORDS One style manual release valve has three 0-rings and the other style has only two. Because the valves are NOT interchangeable, be sure to replace the valve with the same style as the one remove.d. Carefully thread the valve into the pump housing shoulder. Tighten the valve secure24- If the valve was removed with the trim/tilt system remaining in the clamp brackets, carefully move the starboard tran som bracket into place with the manual release valve passing through the opening in the bracket. Apply a light coating of Loc tite Grade "A" on the threads of the five bolts. Secure the bracket in place with the two outboard mounting bolts, and the three bolts through the bracket into the power trim assembly. Tighten the bolts to a torque value of 30 ft lbs. (40.7 Nm). If the manual release valve was removed after the tilt/trim assembly was removed from the clamp brackets, continue with the assembly work. Install the assembly accord ing to Steps 25 thru 30. INSTALLATION TRIM/TILT SYSTEM "B" 25-Apply a coating of Loctite Grade "A" to the threads of all mounting bolts. Lift the assembly into position between the clamp brackets, with the fill tube indexed in the port clamp bracket hole. Install the three bolts securing the system to the port side bracket. DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time. INSTALLATION SYSTEM "8" 9-5 1 26-Route the wiring through the starboard side clamp bracket. Install the wavy washer onto the tilt tube. Thread the tilt tube nut onto the tube. Tighten the nut securely. Install and tighten the steering cable retaining nut onto the end of the tilt tube. 27-Carefully move the starboard clamp bracket into place with the manual release valve passing through the opening in the bracket. Start the three bolts securing the trim/tilt system to the starboard clamp bracket. Apply marine sealer to the shanks of the bolts securing the clamp bracket to the transom. The sealer is necessary to ensure a watertight installation. Install the bolts, lockwashers, and locknuts. Tighten the nuts securely. NOW, tighten the six trim/tilt system mounting bolts, three port and three starboard, to a torque value of 30 ft. lbs. (40.7 Nm). 28-Connect the electrical leads to the UP and DOWN solenoids according to the tags affixed to the wires at the beginning of the disassembling procedures. If the tags were not affixed, refer to the electrical diagram in the Appendix. Connect the electrical leads to a 12-volt battery. Depress the UP button to extend the piston to the full up position. 29-Start the retaining pin into the port transom with the non-slotted end going in first. Now, observe how the hole for the cross pin is aligned with the slot in the end of the retaining pin. Also note how the cross pin hole on one side of the retaining pin is chamfered and the other is not. Align the slot approximately with the hole in the end of the tilt piston, and then push the retaining pin through the port bracket, then the end of the tilt piston, and finally through flush with the surface of the piston end. a waterproof measure. 9-52 TRIM/TILT Using a small punch and hammer to drive the cross pin into place, AFTER the hole has been aligned as shown in the line drawing on this page. the starboard bracket. Once the retaining pin is installed, rotate the pin very SLOWLY with a screwdriver until the hole in the retaining pin is aligned with the hole in \the end of the tilt piston. Once the hole is close to alignment, a small punch may be used through the hole in the piston end to rotate the retaining pin. After the hole is aligned, drive the cross pin into place with the smooth end of the cross pin going in first. Continue to drive the pin with a hammer and punch until the pin is CROSS PIN HOLE SLOT FAC ING PORT SIDE CHAMFER RETAINI NG FACES OUT (AFT) CROSS PIN END KNURLED END FACES OUT (AFT) The retaining pin can be rotated with a large screwdriver until the hole in the pin is aligned with the hole in the end of the tilt piston. The chamfered hole in the end of the piston must face OUTWARD. If it does not, remove the retaining pin and rotate the piston in the cylinder 1/2 turn. 30-Remove the large C-clamp and block of wood. Remove the support safety tool by removing the cotter pins and pulling it free. Release the tilt lock lever, and then operate the system through several full cycles from full up to full down. Check the fluid level through the fill screw opening and add fluid as required. Bleed the system of air. See Section 9-11. 31-Install the harness retainer and secure it with the attaching bolts. If any other wire clamps were removed, install and tighten them securely. Apply Quicksilver Liquid Neoprene, or equivalent, on all electrical connections as 10 LOWER UNIT 10-1 DESCRIPTION The lower unit is considered as that part of the outboard below the exhaust housing. The unit contains the propeller shaft, the driven and pinion gears, the drive shaft from the powerhead and the water pump. The shifting capabilites, including the forward and reverse gears together with the clutch, shift assembly, and related linkage, are all housed within the lower unit. The lower unit may be removed and serviced without disturbing the remainder of the outboard unit. CHAPTER COVERAGE Two different water pumps, two different shift mechanisms, and two different driveshaft arrangements are covered in this chapter. A brief description of each pump, each shift, and each driveshaft arrangement is presented in the following paragraphs. Water Pump Two quite different design water pumps are used on the units covered in this manual. A high pressure water is used on most early lower units and lower units matched with large horsepower powerheads. A high volume water pump is used on later lower units and units matched with smaller horsepower powerheads. Actually the components of both designs remain essentially the same --pump cover, impeller, gasket, inner plate, another gasket, and the water pump base. The shape and the size of these individual parts have been changed to meet the demand for increased volume. Shifting Mechanism The shift system installed on units covered in this manual has two distinctly different designs. One has been identified as Cam Shift I and the other as Cam Shift II to permit presentation of separate procedures for each. The differences between these two cam shift arrangements cannot be determined until the lower unit has been disassembled and the shifting components have been exposed. The Cam Shift Type I was installed on all lower units matched with early 3-cylinder, and 4-cylinder powerheads. Cam Shift Type I lower units are equipped with the high pressure water pump and the bearing carrier is secured with a large cover nut. The Cam Shift Type II has been used on lower units matched with late model 3cylinder and 4-cylinder powerheads. The Cam Shift Type II is equipped with a high volume water pump and the bearing carrier Classroom type cutaway view of a lower unit with major parts, including the propeller and water pump, installed. Notice how the forward, reverse and pinion gears all are "bevel cut". I 0-2 LOWER UNIT .. 9 ¢ ..:I..I I I HIGH VOLUME I VATER PUHP HIGH PRESSURE WATER PUHP Exploded drawing of a high pressure water pump (left), and a high volume water pump (right). Major parts are identified. The high volume JX.Lmp is used on newer lower units matched with intermediate size powerheads covered in this manual. is secured to the lower unit by two externally mounted "ears". The two accompanying illustrations will help in identifying a Cam Shift Type II lower unit. Driveshaft Arrangements The three types of driveshafts are: "Old" driveshaft with a pre-load pin at the upper end. "Old" driveshaft WITHOUT a preload pin. New "Alpha", also known as "MR" driveshaft without a pre-load pin on the upper end and a new cut to the gears. Briefly the differences are as follows: Old style WITH a pre-load pin placed a load on the driveshaft in the downward direction. The driveshaft had a "one-piece" CROSS PIN c:::= ' RING CROSS PINCLUTCH "DOG" "'SPRING GU IDE BLOCK ,....A "CAH FOLLOWER SHIFT CAH/'1 Shifting components of the Cam-Shift Type I mechanism. P.... CROSS PIN .. CRO..PIN RING CLUTCH 11DOG11 SPRING GU IDE BLOCK Aoo..3 BALLS CAH CAH FOLLOWER Shifting components of the Cam-Shift Type II mechanism. ball bearing set OR a "two-piece" tapered roller bearing set. Old style dr iveshaft WITHOUT the preload pin uses a "two-piece" tapered roller bearing set and a new bevel cut for the pinion gear in a counterclockwise direction. The new gear arrangement placed a load on the driveshaft in the upward direction and held it. Therefore, the pin was no longer required. The Alpha driveshaft has the new bevel cut on the pinion gear and both the forward and reverse gears, the same as for the old style without the pre-load pin, as shown in the accompanying illustration. The new shaft and gear set is shown on the left and PIN The letter "A" was embossed on the end of the propeller shaft for the first production year of the Alpha drive. the old one on the right. Notice the absence of the pre-load pin on the new driveshaft and the opposite direction of the gears. The new gear direction places an UPWARD load on the driveshaft. Therefore, the pre-load pin at the upper end is no longer needed. Increased strength has also been built into the Alpha driveshaft as indicated by the diameter of the lower portion. The first year the Alpha driveshaft was introduced an "A" was embossed on the end of the propeller shaft to identify the lower unit as having the new driveshaft. After the first year the letter "A" was discontinued. Therefore, the only way to determine if the A new driveshaft, pinion gear, and driven gear, for the Alpha drive (left), alongside the old driveshaft and gears. Differences are explained in the text. CHAPTER COVERAGE I 0-3 unit has an Alpha driveshaft is during disassembling. If the upper end of the driveshaft does NOT have a pre-load pin AND if there is a retainer nut around the driveshaft under the water pump, the unit being serviced has the Alpha drive. PROCEDURES Detailed instructions are presented for: Troubleshooting --Section 10-2. Lower unit removal --10-3. Disassembling water pump --10-4. Servicing Cam-Shift Type I units, including disassembling, exploded drawings, assembling, and adjust ments --10-5. Servicing Cam-Shift Type II units, including disassembling, exploded drawings, assembling, and adjust ments -10-6. Water pump installation all units --1 0 -7. Cleaning and Inspecting all units --10-8. Lower unit installation to intermediate housing, all units 10-9. Because so many procedures are common to the different lower units, except in specified areas, all service tasks for the particular unit being serviced are presented in one section. Therefore, the work moves along smoothly and when differences are encountered the steps to be followed are clearly indicated. By the same token, when the steps involve all units covered in the section, this fact is also boldly brought to the reader's attention. R.LUSTRATIONS Because this chapter covers such a wide range of models over an extended period of time, the illustrations included with the procedural steps are those of the most popular lower units. In some cases, the unit being serviced may not appear to be absolutely identical with the unit illustrated. However, the step-by-step work sequence will be valid in all cases. If there is a special procedure for a unique lower unit, the differences will be dearly indica ted in the step. Cutaway view of the lower Wlit in NEUTRAL. The sliding clutch engages either the forward or reverse gear with the pinion gear on the end of the driveshaft. The following procedures are presented in a logical sequence with the most prevalent, easiest, and less costly items to be checked listed first. 10-4 LOWER UNIT SPECIAL WORDS BEFORE BEGINNING WORK All threaded parts are RIGHT -HAND unless otherwise indicated. If any water in the lower unit or metal particles are discovered in the gear lubricant, the lower unit should be completely disassembled, cleaned, and inspected. Use "soft jaws" in a vise to prevent damage to expensive parts. Take time to obtain a suitable mandrel which will contact only the bearing race, when it is necessary to press or drive bearings into place. Keep a record of shim material removed, as an aid during installation. Maintain patience when adjusting gear depth and backlash to prevent noisy operation and possible premature gear failure. Adjustments CANNOT be rushed. Oil seals and 0-rings should always be replaced regardless of their appearance. Use Water Resistant Multi-purpose lubricant on the seals and 0-rings as an aid to installation. 10-2 TROUBLESHOOTING Troubleshooting MUST be done BEFORE the unit is removed from the powerhead to permit isolating the problem to one area. Cutaway view showing the rubber hub and sleeve. The rubber hub protects the lower unit if the propeller should strike an Wlderwater object. If the rubber hub loses its holding power with the inner hub of the propeller, the propeller hub MUST be replaced. Always attempt to proceed with troubleshooting in an orderly manner. The "shot in the dark" approach will only result in wasted time, incorrect diagnosis, replacment of unneccessary parts, and frustration. REMOVAL -ALL UNITS I 0-5 1-Check the propeller and the rubber hub. See if the hub is shredded. If the propeller has been subjected to many strikes against underwater objects, it could slip on its hub. If the hub appears to be damaged replace it with a NEW hub. Replacement of the hub MUST be done by a propeller rebuilding shop equipped with the proper tools and experience for such work. 2-Shift mechanism check: Verify the ignition switch is OFF, to prevent possible personal injury, should the powerhead start. Shift the unit into REVERSE gear and at the same time have an assistant turn the propeller shaft to ensure the clutch is fully engaged. If the shift handle is hard to move, the trouble may be in the lower unit unit, remote control cable, or the shift box. 3-Isolate the problem: Disconnect the remote-control cable at the engine and then lift off the remote-control shift cable. Operate the shift lever. If shifting is still hard, the problem is in the shift cable or control box, see Chapter 8. If the shifting feels normal with the remote-control cable disconnected, the problem must be in the lower unit. To verify the problem is in the lower unit, have an assistant turn the propeller and at the same time move the shift cable back-and-forth. Determine if the clutch engages properly. 10-3 LOWER UNIT REMOVAL ALL UNITS ADVICE Before beginning work on the lower unit take time to READ and UNDERSTAND th.. information presented in Section 10-1. Verifying which lower unit is to be serviced will ensure the proper procedures are being followed after the lower unit is separated from the driveshaft housing and the water pump has been removed. Disconnect the high tension spark plug leads, remove the spark plugs, and disconnect the leads at the battery terminals ' before working on the lower unit. 1-Position a suitable container under the lower unit, and then remove the FILL screw and the VENT screw. Allow the gear lubricant to drain into the container. As the lubricant drains, catch some with your fingers from time-to-time, and rub it between your thumb and finger to determine if any metal particles are present. If metal is detected in the lubricant, the unit must be completely disassembled, inspected, and the damaged parts replaced. Check the color of the lubricant as it drains. A whitish or 10-6 LOWER UNIT DEBRI S A magnet is an integral part of the fill screw. This magnet will catch small metallic parts in the lower unit lubricant. creamy color indicates the presence of water in the lubricant. Check the drain pan for signs of water separation from the lubricant. The presence of any water in the gear lubricant is bad news. The unit must be completely disassembled, inspected, the cause of the problem determined, and then corrected. 2-Shift the lower unit into FORWARD gear. Raise the lower unit upward until the tilt lever can be actuated, and then engage the tilt stop. SAFETY WORDS As a safety measure to prevent accidental movement of the outboard while work is being performed, it is STRONGLY recommended a few minutes be used to make a safety support tool as shown in the accompanying illustration. The tool may be made from any metal bar stock or small channel SUPPORT TOOL iron of suitable size, with a 3/8" (9.53 mm)hole drilled through at each end and 14" (35.6 em) apart, as shown. Cut-off the head of a 3/8" bolt about 2-1/2" (6.4 em) long. Drill a hole through each bolt for a cotter pin. Secure the bolts through the holes made in the bar stock with two nuts, one on each side of the bar. The tool is now ready for installation, one end through the clamp bracket and the other end through the tilt stop bracket. Secure each end of the tool in place with a washer and cotter pin. The lower unit may now be serviced or other work performed with confidence and in safety. PROPELLER REMOVAL I 0-7 Propeller Removal SAFETY WORDS -ALL MODELS An outboard engine may start very easily. Therefore, anytime the propeller is to be removed or installed, check to be sure: a-Key switch is in OFF position. b-Spark plug wires are disconnected. c-Electrical leads disconnected at the battery terminals. 3-Bend the locking tabs forward out of the locking washer. Some lower units have a locknut installed instead of a lockwasher. Never pry on the edge of the propeller. Any small distortion will affect propeller performance. Remove the propeller nut by first placing a block of wood between one of the propeller blades and the anticavitation plate to prevent the propeller from turning, and then remove the nut. Remove the splined washer. Remove the outer thrust hub from the propeller shaft. If the thrust hub is stubborn and refuses to budge, use two PADDED pry bars on opposite sides of the hub and work the hub loose. TAKE-CARE not to damage the lower unit. Remove the propeller. If the propeller is "frozen" to the shaft, perform the following procedures to break it loose. "Frozen" Propeller 4-If the propeller is frozen to the shaft, heat must be applied to the shaft to melt out the rubber inside the hub. Using heat will destroy the hub, but there is no other way. As heat is applied, the rubber will expand and the propeller will actually be blown from the shaft. Therefore, STAND CLEAR to avoid personal injury. .5-Use a knife and cut the hub free of the inner sleeve. 6-The sleeve can be removed by cutting it with a hacksaw, or it can be removed with a puller. Again, if the sleeve is frozen, it may be necessary to apply heat. Remove the thrust hub from the propeller shaft. Procedures for propeller installation are given at the end of this chapter, after the lower unit has been installed. Remove the inner thrust hub. If this hub is also stubborn, use padded pry bars and work the hub loose. Again, TAKE CARE not to damage the lower unit. I 0-8 LOWER UNIT three retaining nuts and washers securing the pump cover to the pump base. Some model units may have three nuts and one bolt. Use two pry bars, one on each side, and pry the pump cover off the studs. If the cover is "frozen" to the pump, it may be necessary to use a chisel to break the cover loose from the studs. The seal is very difficult to remove. If the seal or insert is unfit for further ser7- Check to be sure the lower unit is in FORWARD gear. Scribe a trim tab reference mark on the anti-cavitation plate. This mark will ensure the trim tab will be installed back at the same angle. Remove the plastic cap from the rear edge of the exhaust housing. Insert the proper size wrench into the hole and remove the trim tab adjusting bolt, and then the trim tab. 8-After removing the trim tab, remove the nut from the recess, as shown in illustration NO. 8 or No. 8A, depending on the model being serviced. Remove the 5/8" nut from the bottom middle of the anti-cavitation plate. Loosen the 5/8" nut located on each side of the exhaust housing. DO NOT attempt to remove these two nuts at this One nut on each side of the exhaust ho..sing must be loosened, but not removed, until the lower unit is supported, as explained in the text. time. Separate the lower unit from the exhaust housing as far as the nuts and studs will permit. Hold the lower unit from falling and at the same time remove the two nuts. Remove the lower unit from the intermediate housing. 10-4 WATER PUMP SERVICE HIGH PRESSURE PUMP REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLING 1-Remove the centrifugal slinger from the top of the water pump. Remove the SERVICE WATER PUMP 10-9 vice, the recommendation is to replace the pump cover. A kit is available from the local dealer and will include a new seal -installed, and a new insert. The new insert will slip right into place. If the cover kit is not available, proceed to remove the seal and insert as follows: Use a punch and hammer and drive the pump insert out of the pump cover. Drive the pump cover seal out of the cover from the insert side. 2-Remove the impeller from the driveshaft. If the impeller is stubborn, it may be necessary to use a punch and hammer to drive the impeller upward and off the driveshaft. If a punch and hammer will not move the impeller, the only answer is to use a chisel and split the impeller. A new impeller should ALWAYS be installed when the lower unit is opened. Remove and SAVE the impeller drive pin from the flat area of the dr iveshaft. 3-Lift upward on the face plate and remove it and the gasket from the mounting studs. Clean any gasket material from the face plate and from the pump base. 4-Remove the water pump base by first removing the flushing screw, seal, and gasket. This flushing screw has not been used for many years. If the word "Flush" is embossed on the side of the gear case, then FACE PLATE GASKET the unit has the flushing screw. Late model lower units have a threaded hole provided in the water pump base. However, If such a hole is present, install a 10-24 screw into the hole and continue to turn the screw until the pump base is lifted from the mating surface of the lower unit. Remove the 0 ring and oil seal from the base plate as sembly. Watch for and SAVE any shim material installed under the base assembly. CamShift Type I units with old style driveshaft WITHOUT the preload pin will have this shim material under the water pump base assembly. All other units will NOT have shim material under the water pump base assembly. They will have shim material under the driveshaft tapered roller bearing race . Cam-Shift Type I units WITHOUT the preload pin will have shim material in BOTH places. Detailed procedures using a micrometer or a feeler gauge to properly shim the water pump for this model lower unit are presented in Section 10-7, Water Pump Installation and apply only to Cam-Shift Type I units WITHOUT the preload pin. If the oil seals are unfit for further service, the manufacturer recommends the pump base be replaced. The base is available in kit form and will include new seals. If the kit is not available, proceed to remove the seals as follows: remove the oil seals from the pump base by prying or driving them away from the impeller side of the pump base. Remove the 0-ring from the groove in the pump base. Clean any gasket material from the upper and lower surfaces of the pump base. HIGH VOLUME PUMP REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLING 1-Slide the sealing ring from the top of the water pump. Remove the four bolts, washers, and isolators securing the pump cover to th.. pump base. If ne..essary, use two screwdnvers, one on each side, and pry the pump up and free of the outer plate. Remove and discard the gasket. The water tube grommet, if still in servicable condition may remain in place on the water pump cover. The impeller may remain on the driveshaft or may stick in the pump cover. 2-If the impeller remained on the driveshaft, slide the impeller up and free of the driveshaft. If the impeller is stubborn, it may be necessary to use a punch and hammer to drive the impeller upward and off the driveshaft. If a punch and hammer will not move the impeller, the only answer is to use a chisel and split the impeller. A new impeller should ALWAYS be installed when the lower unit is opened. Remove and SAVE the impeller drive pin from the flat area of the driveshaft. 3-Lift the outer plate and gasket up and free of the pump base. Clean all old gasket material from the plate and the pump base. 4-If working on a 50hp or 60hp model (since 1990), pry up the water pump base from the top of the lower unit --refer to WATER PUMP BASE WATER . PUMP BASE CD the exploded drawing of this design pump on Page 10-42. For all other models: Remove the bolts and washers securing the water pump base to the lower unit. 5-Use two screwdrivers and pry the water pump base from the lower unit. Remove and discard the gasket under the base. Some 3-and 4-cylinder models may have a modified gear housing to accept a new plastic water pump base. Early models have a metal base made of aluminum. The new plastic base has a silicone impregnated seal on both sides for sealing the base and eliminating the gaskets. Continue with the rest of the disassembly a; described in the text, make a note of the water pump base installed on the unit being serviced. Plastic models will not have a base gasket on either side. 6-Inspect the condition of the two oil seals housed in the water pump base. Check the oil seals for correct installation. On this type water pump, the seals MUST be installed back to back. If either seal is no longer fit for service, pry both seals out with a screwdriver, on at a time. VERY GOOD WORDS If the only work to be performed on the lower unit is servicing the water pump, proceed directly to Section 10-7, Water Pump Installation, beginning on Page 10-52. 10-.5 SERVICING CAM-SHIFT TYPE I UNITS EARLY 3-, AND 4-CYLINDER TO ABOUT 1979 1-The reverse gear-to-pinion gear backlash and the forward gear-to-pinion gear backlash should be checked PRIOR to disassembly. The reverse gear backlash can be checked only at a point of propeller shaft rotation where it is not possible to shift from neutral gear into reverse, as outlined in the following procedure. SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE I I 0-1 1 FIRST, observe the upper end of the driveshaft and determine if there is a preload pin installed in the center of the shaft. Presence of the pin is most important. Three hands are necessary for the backlash check, therefore, obtain the help of an assistant. Slowly rotate the propeller shaft and at the same time attempt to shift into the reverse gear position. Once this position is reached: a-Push down on the driveshaft, if the driveshaft has a pre-load pin. Pull up on the driveshaft if no pre load pin. b-Pull outward on the propeller shaft. c-Hold pressure on the lower shift shaft toward reverse. d-Lightly rotate the propeller shaft clockwise and counterclockwise. The amount of free play felt is the reverse gear-to-pinion gear backlash. For the correct amount of backlash allowable on the unit being serviced, check the Specifica COUNTERCLOCKWISE. As the cover nut loosens, continue to remove it with the cover nut tool. If the The third and least desireable method is to use a mallet to actually drive the lower unit off the carrier. The procedures involved in this method are outlined in Step 5B. In all three methods, heat CAREFULLY applied to the outside of the lower unit, will assist in removing the bearing carrier. SPEC IAL TOOL 0 tions in the Appendix. Record the amount of backlash felt because it may affect shimming of the reverse gear during assembly. Repeat Step 1 to check the backlash of the forward gear, except push in on the propeller shaft. Bearing Carrier and Propeller Shaft Removal 2-Bend the lock tab away from the cover nut recess with a punch. Some models may not have the lock tab. 3-Place the smaller diameter end of Gear Housing Cover Tool C-91-53126 into the cover nut. Slide the thrust hub over the end of the propeller shaft and down into the cover tool. The thrust hub will tend to keep the cover tool square against the cover nut. Strike the handle of the cover tool sharp blows with a mallet to turn the cover nut "Frozen" bearing carrier nut after being sacrificed and drilled out, thus saving more expensive parts. cover nut refuses to budge, it may be necessary to carefully apply heat to the lower unit around the outside of the nut. 4-If the nut still refuses to loosen, a last resort is to drill the nut, as shown. NOW, THESE WORDS Three methods are available to remove the bearing carrier from a Cam-Shift Type I . lower unit. The first and safest method 1s to use a simple adaptor with a slide hammer. This procedure is explained in Step 5. The second method involves the use of a slide hammer and long puller jaws to remove the carrier from the lower unit and is explained in Step 5A. SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE I 10-13 .5-The first method of removing the bearing carrier is to use a shaft puller adaptor and a slide hammer, as shown in the accompanying illustration. Thread the adaptor onto the propeller shaft as far as possible. Next thread the slide hammer into the adapter and the shaft, clutch dog, reverse gear, and bearing carrier are ready to be removed as a unit. Operate the slide hammer to pull the parts mentioned. .5A-As explained, this step is an alternate method of removing the bearing carrier from the lower unit. Obtain Slide Hammer C-91-34569Al with long Puller Jaws C-9146086A 1. Use the propeller thrust hub to maintain an outward pressure on the puller jaws. Save the bearing carrier alignment key. Remove the propeller shaft from the lower unit. Set the unit aside for disassembly later. .58-The third and least desirable method is as follows: Clamp the propeller shaft in a vise equipped with soft jaws in a horizontal position. Use a mallet and strike the lower unit with quick sharp blows midway between the anti-cavitation plate and the propeller shaft. This action will drive the lower unit off the bearing carrier. TAKE CARE not to drop the lower unit or loose the alignment key when the unit finally comes free of the carrier. Now, if the lower unit refuses to move, it may be necessary to carefully apply heat to the lower unit in the area of the carrier and at the same time attempt to move it off the carrrier. Remove the propeller shaft and bearing carrier from the vise. Slide the propeller shaft out of the bearing carrier from the rear to the front. Set the assembly aside for disassembly later. Driveshaft and Bearing Removal 6-Clamp the lower unit in a vise equipped with soft jaws in the upright position • Again, check and record the forward gear backlash. BEFORE disassembling the unit check the forward gear to pinion gear backlash. This is accomplished by pushing down on the driveshaft with one hand and at the same time rocking the forward gear back and-forth with the other hand. The amount of movement felt is the backlash. Check the Specifications in the Appendix for the unit being serviced. 7-Clamp the skeg in a vice equipped with soft jaws or between two pieces soft wood. Obtain special tool C-91-34377 AI. Use a box end wrench through the bearing carrier cavity on the pinion gear nut and the special tool on the end of the driveshaft with a breaker bar. Now, hold the pinion nut with the box end wrench, as shown and turn the driveshaft counterclockwise until the nut is released from the driveshaft. STOP AND OBSERVE Look down into the lower unit and observe the type of upper driveshaft bearing installed. Two types of bearings are used in Cam-Shift Type I lower units covered in this section. One type uses a regular "one piece" ball bearing and race arrangement. This type of bearing cannot be disassembled. If SPEC IAL TOOL · PRE-LOAD PIN Upper end of the driveshaft with a pre-load pin (left), and without the pin (right). this type bearing is used, perform Step 8 and then skip to Step 11. The other type of upper driveshaft bearing is a "two piece" tapered roller design. Both the bearing and the race MUST be replaced as a set. If this type of bearing is installed, perform Steps 8 and all subsequent steps. Units WITH Driveshaft Preload Pin The driveshaft has a preload pin in the upper end. On this unit, push DOWN on the driveshaft with one hand and at the same time rock the forward gear back-and-forth with the other hand. The amount of move SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE I 10-15 DRIVESHAFT TAPERED BEARING RACE ment felt is the backlash. Check the Specifications in the Appendix for the unit being serviced. Units WITHOUT Driveshaft Preload Pin The lower units matched with these powerheads do not have the preload pin at the upper end. On these units, pull UP on the driveshaft with one hand, and at the same time rock the forward ge..r back-and-forth with the other hand. The amount of movement felt is the backlash. Check the Spedfica tions in the Appendix for the unit being serviced. 8-Use a block of wood to protect the lower unit and drive the unit off the driveshaft. TAKE CARE to prevent the lower unit from falling when it finally comes free of the driveshaft. Reach in and remove the shim material that was used under the bearing. Save the shim material because the same amount will probably be used during assembling. Remove the driveshaft from the vise. Remove the pinion gear from the lower unit. 9-Clamp the lower unit in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Use a slide hammer and remove the driveshaft tappered bearing race. Save the shims from under the tapered bearing race. The same amount of shim material will probably be used during assembly. 10-Obtain Water Pump Cartridge Puller C-91-27780. Use the puller to remove the lubrication sleeve from the lower unit. Some units may not have this sleeve installed. Set the driveshaft aside for disassembly later. Forward Gear and Bearing Removal 11-After the pinion gear is removed, the forward gear and bearing can be lifted out of the lower unit. The tapered bearing race will remain within the lower unit. Re @ BEAR ING CARR IER move the forward bearing race and shim material using a slide hammer. !..-C:lamp :he low..r unit in the upright position m a vise equipped with soft jaws. Obtain Shift Shaft Bushing Tool C-91-23033. Slide the tool over the shift shaft and engage the tangs on the tool with the slots in the bushing. Turn the tool COUNTERCLOCKWISE and remove the bushing. 13-Lift the shift shaft out of the lower unit. The shift cam is now free to be removed. 14-Remove the 0-ring from the shift shaft bushing. The oil seals can be removed by driving them out with a punch from the lo..er uni! si?e of the shift shaft bushing. This bushmg Is sold as an assembly with the seals installed. Set the assembly aside for disassembly later. Bearing Carrier Disassembling 15-Clamp the bearing carrier in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Remove and DISCARD the 0-ring from between the bearing carrier and the thrust washer. Use a slide hammer and remove the reverse gear. If the reverse gear ball bearing remained in the bearing carrier, remove the bearing using a slide hammer. 16-Remove the seal by prying or driving It. toward the rear. On some late model units, two seals are used. Set the assembly . aside ready for cleaning and inspecting. SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE I 10-17 PROPELLER SHAFT BEAR ING 17-DO NOT remove the propeller shaft bearing unless it is unfit for further service. Condition of the bearing may be determined by inspecting the roller bearing surface of the propeller shaft. To remove the bearing, use a slide hammer and puller jaws. Propeller Shaft Disassembling 18-Position the propeller shaft cam follower against a solid object. Insert a thin blade screwdriver or an awl under the first coil of the cross-pin retainer spring and rotate the propeller shaft to unwind the spring from the sliding clutch. TAKE CARE not to overstretch the spring. 19-Push against the cam follower and at the same time push the cross-pin out of the sliding clutch with a punch. 20-Release the pressure on the cam follower and slide the clutch forward off the propeller shaft. Now, tip the propeller shaft and allow the cam follower, guide block, and spring to slide out of the propeller shaft. Set the unit aside for cleaning and inspecting. SPECIAL WORDS Some newer lower units will have three small ball bearings behind the cam follower, as in the Cam-Shift Type II. HOWEVER, the remainder of the lower unit components and the water pump will be the same as other Cam-Shift Type I. Driveshaft Disassembling FIRST, THESE WORDS As mentioned earlier after Step 7, two types of bearings are used on the driveshaft of the lower units covered in THIS section. One is a tapered bearing. Removal of this type bearing is covered in Step 21. The CAM FOLLOWER 3 BALLS The only difference in some late model lower units is in the actual shifting mechanism, making it a CamShift Type II. The remainder of the lower unit is identical with the Cam-Shift Type I. 10-18 LOWER UNIT The clutch "dog" and matching splines on the propeller shaft should be closely inspected. other type is a ball bearing and is covered in :tep 22. DO NOT remove either type bearmg unless the bearing is no longer fit for further service. If the bearing requires replacement, the bearing race MUST also be replaced. 21-Position the driveshaft and Universal Puller Plate C-91-37241 on a press, as shown. Press the driveshaft out of the bearing. 22-Remove the driveshaft ball bearing retainer snap ring. Position the driveshaft in a partially opened vise with the ball bearing above the jaws. DO NOT tighten the vise on the shaft. Now, use a mallet and drive the shaft out of the bearing. Separating Forward Gear From Bearing The forward gear does NOT have to be removed in order to perform an adequate job of cleaning and inspecting. Therefore ' it . 1s not necessary to remove the gear unless it is unfit for further service. 23-Position Universal Puller Plate C91- 37241 between the forward gear and the tapered bearing. Place the puller plate and gear on a press with the gear on the bottom. Press the gear out of the bearing with a suitable mandrel. If the bearing cannot be removed, clamp the forward gear in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Use a punch and hammer to drive the roller bearing out of the forward gear. BAD NEWS Once the bearing has been removed it CANNOT be used a second time because the roller cage will be damaged during the removal operation. 24-Use a round piece of raw stock, a wooden dowel will do the job, and drive the lower driveshaft needle bearing out of the housing, as shown. CLEANING AND INSPECTING See Section 10-8, beginning on Page 1057 for detailed comprehensive procedures to clean and inspect the complete lower unit. ; LOWER DR I NEEDLE BEAR ING SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE I 10-19 r---------------- PROPELLER SHAFT 'NUT CROSS-PI N SLIDING CLUTCH SPRING FORWARD GEAR ROLLER BEARING TAPERED ROLLER BEARING BEARING RACE SCREW.. GEAR HOUS ING.. HUB COVER NUT WASHER ...---OIL SEAL = ALIGNMENT KEY 0/ BEARING CARRIER ..ROLLER BEARING II ,.....0-RING BEARING ....THRUST WASHER c::::>........__ sHIH I...............SPRI NG A ...............GUIDE BLOCK : CAM FOllOWER •---• ..............SHIFT CAM Exploded drawing of a typical Cam-Shift Type I propeller shaft covered in this section. Major parts are identified. TAPERED BEAR ING SH IH LUBR ICATION DR I VESHAFT REVERSE LOCK CAM SPACER WASHER OIL SEAL SH IFT SHAFT BUSH ING 0-RING DOWEL GEAR HOUS lNG FLUSH PLUG ' \ FLUSH PLUG WASHER ..4r FILL SCREW WASHER .. .;f'. FILL SCREW f-----, RUBBER RING PIN 11... GEAR ' EXHAUST TUBE SEAL Exploded drawing of a typical old style Cam-Shift Type I driveshaft WITHOUT the preload pin at the upper end and with a set of tapered roller bearings at the lower end. Major driveshaft and water pump parts are identified. SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE I I 0-2 1 PIN ..WATER TUBE GU IDE DR IVESHAFT PRELOAD i PUMP COVERDRIVESHAFT : · WASHER WATER PUMP INSERT PIN c:!)......___ GASKET ..FACE PLATE REVERSE CAM LOCK .... GASKET GROOVED SPACER PIN RUBBER WASHER .. WATER PUMP BASE LUBRICATION OIL SEALS SHIFT SHAFT OIL SEAL -------------j 0-RI NG •....._____ PINION GEAR __ GASKET LOWER SHIFT 0 ...___ PINION NUT FLUSH PLUG' 1 FLUSH PLUG WASHER ::y GEAR HOUS lNG WASHER/GASKET {2) FI LL & VENT SCREWS.... ,. Exploded drawing of a typical old style Cam-Shift Type I driveshaft WITH the preload pin at the upper end a set of roller bearings at the lower. end. Major driveshaft and water pump parts are identified. 10-22 LOWER UNIT ASSEMBLING Lower Drivesha.ft Bearing If a new lower unit is being installed, the driveshaft roller bearing will already be in place. 1-Obtain Bearing Removal and Installation Kit C-91-312291. Place the drive shaft roller bearing over the driver head of the installation kit with the numbered side of the bearing TOWARD the shoulder of the driver head. Thread the driver rod from the kit into the drive head. Coat the needle bearing area of the driveshaft cavity with Formula 50 oil. Position the rod, driver head and bearing into the lower unit driveshaft cavity. Place a pilot washer from the kit over the driver rod and slide it down into the driveshaft bearing cavity. Use a mallet to drive the roller bearing downward until it is approximately 1/16" (1.6mm) above the bottom end of the driveshaft cavity. Remove the driver rod, head, and pilot washer. Shift Shaft Assembling FIRST, THESE WORDS A new shift shaft bushing is sold as an assembly and will have the oil seals installed. 2-Place the shift shaft bushing on a press with the threaded side DOWN. Coat the metal surface of both oil seals with Loctite Type "A". Place the smaller diameter oil seal into the shift shaft bushing with the lip of the seal TOWARD the outside, the top. Press the seal into place using a suitable size mandrel. Place the larger oil seal into the top of the shift shaft bushing with the lip of the seal TOWARD the outside, the top. Press the seal into place using a suitable mandrel. Clean any excess Loctite from the seals and bushing. Install a NEW 0-ring over the threads and against the shoulder of the bushing. Now, lubricate the seals and the 0-ring with Multipurpose Lubricant, or equivalent. 3-Snap the E-clip into the groove in the shift shaft. The clip must be seated properly to prevent the shift rod from rising out of the shift cam in the lower unit. Shift Shaft Installation 4-Place the cam into the forward portion of the lower unit between the cast SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE I 10-23 webbing. If the shift cam has numbers embossed on one side, then the side with the numbers MUST face UP after installation. The ramps on the shift cam MUST be visible from the rear of the lower unit and the longer side, the reverse ramp, MUST be toward the left side, the fill screw hole side. Place the lower shift shaft, the short spline end, into the shift shaft cavity. Rotate the shift shaft to engage the splines into the splines of the shift cam. 5-Slide the shift shaft bushing over the shift shaft and start the threads of the bushing into the lower unit. Obtain Shift Shaft Bushing Tool C-91-31107. Use the tool to tighten the shift shaft bushing securely. DO NOT attempt to install the reverse lock cam at this time. Bearing Carrier Assembling 6-Position the propeller shaft roller bearing into the aft end of the bearing carrier with the numbered side TOWARD the aft end. Press the roller bearing into the bearing carrier with a suitable mandrel. 7-Coat the outer diameter of the propeller shaft oil seals with Loctite Type "A". Obtain Oil Seal Driver C-91-31108. Place one seal on the longer shoulder side of the driver tool with the lip of the seal AWAY from the shoulder. Press the seal into the 10-24 LOWER UNIT bearing carrier until the seal driver bottoms against the bearing carrier. Place the second seal on the short shoulder side of the seal driver with the lip of the seal TOWARD the shoulder. 8-Press the seal into the bearing carrier until the seal driver bottoms against the bearing carrier. Clean excess Loctite from the seals. 9-Position the reverse gear on a press with the gear teeth facing DOWN. Place the thrust washer over the gear. Place the ball bearing over the gear with the numbered side UP. Now, press the ball bearing onto the gear with a suitable mandrel. 10-Place the bearing carrier over the gear and bearing assembly. Press the bearing carrier onto the bearing. Place a NEW 0-ring over the bearing carrier and position it between the bearing carrier and the thrust washer. Coat the 0-ring and oil seals with Multipurpose Lubricant, or equivalent. Set the unit aside for installation later. Forward Gear Assembling 11-Place the forward gear on a press with the gear teeth DOWN. Position the forward gear tapered bearing over the gear. Now, press the bearing onto the gear with a suitable mandrel until the bearing is firmly seated. Check for clearance (gap) between the inner bearing race and the shoulder of the gear. There should be NO clearance. 12-Position the roller bearing over the center bore of the forward gear with the numbered side of the bearing facing UP. Use a suitable mandrel and press the roller bearing into the gear until the bearing is seated against the shoulder. .. .. .. ® SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE I 10-25 CRITICAL WORDS The bear..ng carrier is used as a pilot . . wh!l.. mstallmg the forward gear bearing cup ..n the next step. Therefore, the bearing earner must have been assembled to include at least the propeller shaft roller bearing as outlined in Step 6. Forward Bearing Race Installation 13-Place the same amount of shim material saved during disassembly into the lower unit. If the shim material was lost, or if a new lower unit is being used, begin with approximately 0.010" (.25mm) material. Coat the forward bearing race bore with Formula 50 oil. 14-Position the tapered bearing race squarely over the bearing bore in the front portion of the lower unit. Obtain Bearing Driver Cup tool C-91-31106. Place the tool over the tapered bearing race. 15-Insert the propeller shaft into the hole in the center of the bearing cup. Lower the bearing carrier asembly down over the propeller shaft, and then lower it into the lower unit. The bearing carrier will service as a pilot to ensure proper bearing race alignment. Now, use a mallet and drive the propeller shaft against the bearing driver cup until the tapered bearing race is seated against the shim material. Withdraw the propeller shaft and bearing carrier, then lift out the driver cup. PLAN AHEAD Obtain a suitable substance which can be used to indicate a wear pattern on the forward and pinion gears as they mesh. Machine dye may be used and if this material is not available, Desenex Foot Powder (obtainable at the local Drug Store/Pharmacy), or equivalent may be substituted. Desenex is a white powder available in an aerosol container. Before assembling either gear, apply a light film of the dye, Desenex, or equivalent, to the driven side of the gear. After the gears are assembled and rotated several times, they will be disassembled and the wear pattern can be examined. The substance will be removed from the gears prior to final assembly. 10-26 LOWER UNIT 16-Position the forward gear assembly into the forward bearing race. Driveshaft Assembling FIRST, THESE WORDS As mentioned in the disassembling procedure following Step 7, two different type bearings are used on the driveshaft of the various lower unit unit covered in this section. Some units have a "one-piece" ball bearing assembly installed and others use a "two-piece" tapered bearing. Procedures to install the "one-piece" ball bearing type are covered in Step 17 and to install the driveshaft assembly in Step 19 and 20. The "twopiece" tapered bearing type installation instructions are presented in Step 18 and 21. One-piece ball bearing 17-Position the driveshaft bearing over the top end of the driveshaft with the groove in the outer bearing race toward the pinion gear end of the driveshaft. Position the driveshaft bearing above the jaws of Universal Puller Plate C-91-37241 and then press the driveshaft into the driveshaft bearing. Two-piece tapered bearing 18-Two-piece tapered bearing installation: Position the driveshaft tapered bearing over the pinion gear end of the driveshaft. Use a suitable mandrel and press the bearing flush against the shoulder on the driveshaft. Driveshaft Installation One-piece ball bearing 19-Apply a thin coating of substance, as explained in the "Plan Ahead" paragraph prior to Step 16, to the driven side of the pmwn gear, before proceeding. Place the shim material saved during disassembly into the lower unit driveshaft bearing bore. If a new lower unit is being installed, or if the bearing material was lost, begin by using 0.01 5" (0.38mm) shim material. Use a small amount of Multipurpose Lubricant to hold the shims in place. Position the pinion gear in the lower unit with the teeth of the pinion gear indexed (meshed) with the teeth of the forward gear. Insert the driveshaft into the lower unit and at the same time hold the pmwn gear in position with the other hand. Tap on the end of the driveshaft with a mallet to drive the bearing into the lower unit. After EACH TAP, rotate the driveshaft and at the same hold the pinion gear toward the driveshaft in an attempt to align and engage the splines. Continue with this tapping and rotating procedure until the driveshaft enters the pinion gear. 20-Hold the pinion gear against the driveshaft splines, while the driveshaft bearing is seated against the shims, by continuing to tap with the mallet against the driveshaft. Install the pinion gear retainer nut onto the driveshaft. Hold the pinion gear retainer nut with a socket wrench. Pad the area where the socket wrench flex handle will contact the lower unit while the pinion nut is being tightened. Obtain Drive TORQUE SPEC IAL TOOL IVESHAFT SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE I 10-27 Shaft Nut Wrench C-91-56775. Place the wrench over the crankshaft end of the driveshaft. Use a torque wrench and socket to tighten the pinion nut to torque value of 70-80 ft lbs (95-109Nm). Two-piece tapered bearing 21-Place the lubrication sleeve into the driveshaft cavity. CHECK to be sure the sleeve fits down into the cavity far enough to be below the shim surface. DO NOT use excessive force because the sleeve could become distorted. Position the shim material saved during disassembly into the driveshaft cavity. Use a small amount of water resistant Multipurpose Lubricant to hold the shim material in place. Obtain Bearing Driver Cup C-9134379 and Bearing Removal and Installation Kit C-91-31229Al. Now, using the cup and the bearing kit, drive the tapered bearing race into the lower unit cavity until the race is seated against the shim material. STOP Apply a thin coating of substance, as explained in the "Plan Ahead" paragraph prior to Step 16, to the driven side of the pinion gear, before performing Step 22. 22-Position the pinion gear in the lower unit below the driveshaft cavity and with the teeth of the pinion gear indexed (meshed) with the teeth of the forward gear. 10-28 LOWER UNIT Hold the pm10n gear in position and at the same time, insert the driveshaft into the driveshaft cavity. Now, rotate and insert the dr iveshaft until the dr iveshaft splines align and engage with the splines of the pinion gear. Continue to insert the drive shaft into the pinion gear until the tapered bearing is against the bearing race. Start the pinion gear retainer nut. Hold the pinion gear retainer nut with a socket wrench. Pad the area where the socket wrench flex handle will contact the the lower unit while the pinion nut is being tightened. Obtain Drive Shaft Nut Wrench C-91-56775. Place the wrench over the crankshaft end of the dr iveshaft. Use a torque wrench and socket to tighten the pinion nut to torque value of 70-80 ft lbs (95-109Nm). PINION GEAR DEPTH GOOD WORDS The proper amount of pinion gear depth (pinion gear engagement with the forward gear), is critical for proper operation of the lower unit. Therefore, read and UNDER STAND the procedures involved in Steps 24 thru 28 before attempting any change in the shim material. The pinion gear depth procedures vary depending on whether the driveshaft has a pre-load pin on the upper end or does not have the pre-load pin. Therefore, two set of instructions are presented in the following steps. Procedures for the driveshaft with the pre-load pin are presented in Step 23. Procedures for the driveshaft without the pre-load pin are given in Step 23A. Detailed instruction to change the shim material are given in Steps 25 thru 28. Pinion Gear Depth Driveshaft WITH Preload Pin 23-Seat the driveshaft bearing outer race firmly against the shim material using a punch and hammer. TAKE CARE not to damage the bearing with the punch. Grasp the driveshaft, PUSH DOWN and at the same time, check the pinion gear tooth engagement with the forward gear teeth to be sure contact is made the full length of the tooth. This can be accomplished by using a flashlight and looking through the gear housing opening. If the pinion gear depth is incorrect, the paragraphs following Step 23A list detailed steps to be followed to correct the condition. Pinion Gear Depth Driveshaft WITHOUT Preload Pin 23A-Grasp the driveshaft, PULL UPWARD and at the same time, check the pinion gear tooth engagement with the forward gear teeth to be sure contact is made the full length of the tooth. This can be accomplished by using a flashlight and looking through the gear housing opening. If the pinion gear depth is incorrect, the following paragraphs list detailed steps to be followed to correct the condition discovered. Shim Material and Backlash Adding or removing shim material will affect the forward gear and the reverse gear as follows: Forward gear --adding shim material DECREASES backlash. Forward gear --removing shim material INCREASES backlash. Reverse gear --adding shim material INCREASES backlash. Reverse gear --removing shim material DECREASES backlash. SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE I I 0-29 CORRECT PINION INCORRECT PINION GEAR DEPTH GEAR DEPTH (TOO HIGH) GEAR ON FULL LENGTH OF TOOTH Forward Gear Backlash 24-Push downward on the driveshaft (all models with pre-load pin) or pull upward on the driveshaft (all models without the pre-load pin). Hold the driveshaft in this position and check the pinion gear tooth engagement with the forward gear teeth. In either case, contact should be made the full length of the teeth. Now, place your other hand into the bearing carrier cavity with a couple fingers hooked in the forward gear. Pull on the forward gear and rock it lightly back-and-forth. The amount of free play between the gear teeth is considered the gear backlash. Check the Specifications in the Appendix for the proper backlash allowed for the unit being serviced. If the backlash appears to be correct, proceed directly to Step 29. If the backlash is not within the Specification limits, proceed to make changes in the shim material, as follows. PINION GEAR AND FORWARD GEAR BACKLASH ADJUSTMENT The following procedures are to be performed for proper pinion gear and backlash adjustments. Because a variety of possibili ties may develop as the work progresses, 10-30 LOWER UNIT step-by-step illustrations would only be confusing. Therefore, captioned illustrations ore included with the instructions to provide an overall view of how the adjustments are to be made. If the pinion gear depth or the forward gear backlash is incorrect, follow the shimming procedures under the heading for the specific condition discovered. Pinion Gear Depth Too Deep but Backlash LESS than Specifications 25-Remove the driveshaft, tapered bearing race if used, and the pinion gear. Add shim material to obtain the correct pinion gear depth. For each 0.00111 (0.025 mm) of shim material added, the forward gear backlash will increase approximately 0.001511 (0.038 mm). Assemble the parts and again check the pinion depth and forward gear backlash. Pinion Gear Depth Too Shallow and Backlash LESS than Specifications 26-Remove the driveshaft, tapered bearing race, if one is used, and the pinion gear. Remove shim material to correct the pinion gear depth. Remove the forward gear and the forward gear bearing race. Remove an EQUAL amount of shim material from the forward gear, plus an additional amount to increase the forward gear backlash to the amount given in the Specifications. The forward gear backlash will increase approximately 0.001511 (0.038 mm) for each 0.00111 (0.025 mm) of shim material removed from in front of the forward gear bearing. Assemble the parts and again check the pinion gear depth and the backlash. Pinion Gear Depth Is Correct but Forward Gear Backlash is Excessive 27-Remove the driveshaft and the pinion gear. Remove the forward g ear and t..e . forward bearing race. Add shim matenal to reduce the forward gear backlash. Adding 0.00111 (0.025 mm) shim material will decrease the gear backlash by approximately 0.0015" (0.038 mm). Assemble the parts and again check the forward gear backlash. Pinion Gear Depth Is Correct but Backlash Less than Specifications 28-Remove the driveshaft and the pinion gear. Remove the forward gear and forward gear bearing race. Remove shim material to increase the gear backlash to specification. Removal of 0.001" (0.025 mm) shim material will increase the gear backlash approximately 0.001511 (0.038 mm). Pinion Gear and Backlash Correct Once the proper amount of backlash and the pinion gear depth is satisfactory, check the gear mesh pattern. SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE I I 0-31 Machine dye being applied to one of the driven gears in preparation to obtaining a gear mesh pattern with the pinion gear. 29-With the unit still assembled, rotate the driveshaft CLOCKWISE approximately 6 to 8 complete revolutions. Now, disassemble the unit and compare the pattern made on the gear teeth with the accompanying illustrations. The pattern should almost be oval on the drive side and be positioned about halfway up the gear teeth. If the pattern appears to be satisfactory, clean the dye or powder from the gear teeth and assemble the unit one final time. If the pattern does NOT appear to be satisfactory, add or remove shim material, as required. Adding or removing shim material will move the gear pattern towards or away from the center of the teeth. CORRECT GEAR MESH PATTERN BOTH INCORRECT PATTERNS A normal gear wear pattern, as shown in the upper part of the illustration, will be centered on the tooth and will not extend over either end of the tooth. Propeller Shaft Assembling Again, check the forward gear-to-pinion gear backlash. The backlash could decrease slightly if the driveshaft bearing was not seated properly. If necessary, repeat the shimming procedure. 30-Insert the spring into the end of the propeller shaft. Insert the guide block, stepped end, into the front end of the propeller shaft with the cross-pin hole aligned with the cross-pin hole in the sliding clutch. Insert the flat end of the cam follower into the front end of the propeller shaft. SPECIAL WORDS If three balls were discovered behind the cam follower in Step 20 of Disassembling, then insert the three balls just prior to inserting the cam follower into the propeller shaft. 31-Slip the sliding clutch over the clutch splines with the cross-pin hole aligned with the cross-pin slot in the propeller shaft. Position the cam follower against a solid object and push against the cam follower to compress the spring. Hold the 10-32 LOWER l..I\IIT propeller shaft in this position and at the same time, use a punch to align the guide block cross-pin opening with the sliding clutch cross-pin hole. Remove the punch and insert the cross-pin. Release pressure on the spring. 32-Install the cross-pin retainer spring over the sliding clutch. TAKE CARE not to over-stretch the spring. Remove the cam follower and insert just a little Multipurpose Lubricant into the end of the propeller shaft. Install the cam follower with the flat end going in first. Bearing Carrier Installation 33-Insert the propeller shaft into the center of the forward gear assembly. 34-If the reverse gear backlash was correct before disassembly, as checked in Step 1, install the same amount of shim material retained during disassembly onto the shoulder in the lower unit to the rear of the reverse gear. GOOD NEWS The reverse gear backlash specification for all units with Cam-Shift Type I covered in this manual is 0.040-0.060" (l.0160.524mm). This is a liberal 0.020" play. If the backlash is not within the 0.020" specification, the unit must be disassembled; shim material added or removed; and the unit assembled again. The backlash will change approximately 0.0015" (0.038 mm) for each 0.001" (0.025mm) of change in shim thickness. Adding shim material will increase the backlash, removing shim material will decrease the backlash. 35-Install a NEW 0-ring into the groove between the bearing carrier and the thrust washer. Coat the 0-ring and propeller shaft oil seals with Multipurpose Lubricant. Coat the outside surfaces of the bearing carrier where the carrier contacts the lower unit with Perfect Seal. PREVENT the Perfect Seal from entering the bearings. Slide the bearing carrier into the lower unit. TAKE CARE not to damage the propeller shaft oil seals. Push the bearing carrier into the SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE I 10-33 LOCKING KEY lower unit and at the same time slowly rotate the driveshaft to allow the pinion gear teeth to engage with the reverse gear teeth. 36-Align the keyway in the bearing carrier with the keyway in the lower unit, and then insert the locking key. 37-Slide a NEW tab washer over the bearing carrier with the "V" portion opposite the keyway. 38-Coat the threads of the bearing carrier cover nut with Perfect Seal. Insert the cover nut into the bearing carrier with the word OFF and the arrow visible. 39-Start the cover nut a few turns BY HAND as a precaution against crossthreading. Obtain Gear Housing Cover Tool tool to the torque value of 210 ft lbs (285Nm). C-9 1-73688. Tighten the cover nut with the 110-Use a pair of water pump pliers to perform this step and pad the lower jaw of the pliers to protect the outside finish of the lower unit. Bend one of the locking tabs down into a cutout in the cover nut. The tabs are arranged in such a manner that one, and maybe more, will align with the cutouts in the nut. Reverse Gear Backlash ill-Shift the lower unit into reverse COVER NUT gear. Rotate the propeller shaft COUNTERCLOCKWISE to take-up any free-play between the reverse gear and the clutch dogs. Shift into neutral gear and rotate the propeller shaft only 1/8" (3.17 mm) COUNTERCLOCKWISE. Now, attempt to shift into reverse gear. The attempt should FAIL If the attempt is successful and it is possible to shift into reverse gear, repeat this step. Hold pressure on the lower shift shaft toward the reverse gear and at the same time, 10-6 SERVICING CAM SHIFT TYPE ll LOWER UNIT MATCHED WITH 3-AND 4-CYLINDER POWERHEADS The following procedures outline complete detailed instructions to remove virtually all parts of the lower unit. If a particular part is found to be in satisfactory condition and does not require removal, simply skip the steps involved and proceed with the required tasks to remove damaged parts. 10-34 LOWER UNIT push down on the driveshaft and have an assistant pull outward on the propeller shaft, and at the same time rock the shaft lightly left-and-right. The amount of free-play felt is the reverse gear backlash. The free-play should be 0.040-0.060" (1.016-1.524mm) for all Cam-Shift Type I units covered in this manual. If the reverse gear backlash is incorrect, change the amount of shim material behind the reverse gear according to Step 34. 42-Slide the bottom driveshaft seal onto the upper part of the driveshaft with the splined end of the seal facing UPWARD. Install the top driveshaft seal onto the driveshaft with the smaller outside diameter of the seal facing UPWARD. SPECIAL GOOD WORDS The Cam-Shift Type I lower unit is now ready for installation of the water pump, including the base and shimming, if required. TOP I BOTTOM SEAL I I -I I 21 @ /3211 Proceed directly to Section 10-7, beginning on Page 10-52. SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE II 10-35 1-The reverse gear-to-pinion gear backlash and the forward gear-to-pinion gear backlash should be checked PRIOR to disassembly. The reverse gear backlash can be checked only at a point of propeller shaft rotation where it is not possible to shift from neutral gear into reverse, as outlined in the following procedure. Three hands are necessary for the backlash check, therefore, obtain the help of an assistant. Slowly rotate the propeller shaft and at the same time attempt to shift into the reverse gear position. Once this position is reached: a-Pull up on the driveshaft. b-Pull outward on the propeller shaft. c-Hold pressure on the lower shift shaft toward reverse. d-Lightly rotate the propeller shaft clockwise and counterclockwise. The amount of free play felt is the reverse gear-to-pinion gear backlash. For all powerheads covered in this manual, the correct amount of backlash allowable is 0.040"-0.060" (l.0-1.5mm). Record the amount of backlash felt because it may affect shimming of the reverse gear during assembly. Repeat Step 1 to check the backlash of the forward gear, except push in on the propeller shaft. Allowable backlash for the forward gear varies, depending on the model being serviced. Therefore, consult the table in the Appendix. Bearing Carrier Removal 2-Remove the two bolts and washers securing the bearing carrier in the lower unit. Use a soft head mallet and tap the ears of the bearing carrier to offset the carrier from the housing, as shown in the accompanying illustration. Now, tap opposite "ears" alternately and evenly on the back side to remove the carrier from the lower unit housing. NOW, THESE WORDS If the carrier is "frozen" and refuses to budge, one of three methods may prove successful to remove the carrier. The first and safest method is to use a simple adaptor with a slide hammer. This procedure is explained in Step 2A. The second method involves the use of a slide hammer and long puller jaws to remove the carrier from the lower unit. This procedure is explained in Step 2B. The third and least desirable method is to use a mallet to actually drive the lower unit off the carrier. The procedure involved in this method is outlined in Step 2C. In all three methods, heat CAREFULLY applied to the outside of the lower unit, will assist in removing the bearing carrier. 2A-The first method of removing the bearing carrier is to use a shaft puller adaptor and a slide hammer, as shown in the accompanying illustration. Thread the adaptor onto the propeller shaft as far as possible. Next, thread the slide hammer into the adapter and the shaft, clutch dog, reverse gear, and bearing carrier are ready to be removed as a unit. Operate the slide hammer to pull the parts mentioned. 28-As explained, this step is an alternate method for removing the bearing car 00 CD® rier from the lower unit. Obtain Slide Hammer C-91-34569Al with long Puller Jaws C-91-46086Al. Use the propeller thrust hub to maintain an outward pressure on the puller jaws. Remove the propeller shaft from the lower unit. Set the unit aside for disassembly later. 2C-The third and least desirable method is as follows: Clamp the propeller shaft in a vise equipped with soft jaws in a horizontal position. Use a mallet and strike the lower unit with quick sharp blows midway between the anti-cavitation plate and the propeller shaft. This action will drive the lower unit off the bearing carrier. TAKE CARE not to drop the lower unit when the unit finally comes free of the carrier. Now, if the lower unit refuses to move, it may be necessary to carefully apply heat to the lower unit in the area of the carrier and at the same time attempt to move it off the carrier. Remove the propeller shaft and bearing carrier from the vise. Slide the propeller shaft out of the bearing carrier from the rear to the front. Set the assembly aside for disassembly later. Bearing Carrier Disassembly 3-Inspect the two seals and the condition of the needle bearing at the rear end of the carrier. If the seals have failed and have allowed water to enter the lower unit, both needle bearings are no longer fit for further service. If the bearing does not roll freely or shows any sign of corrosion, clamp the carrier in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Obtain and use Slide Hammer C-91-34569A1 to pull the bearing free of the carrier. Use a screwdriver and remove both seals. These seals should have been installed back to back. The outer seal prevents water from entering and the other seal prevents oil from escaping. . Obtain Bearing Removal and InstallatiOn Kit, C-91-31229A-5. Obtain Mandrel C-9136569 and Driver Rod C-91-37323, or a suitable substitute mandrel. Insert the removal tools into the forward end of the carrier and press the needle bearing out the rear end of the carrier. Remove and discard the large 0-ring around the carrier. Propeller Shaft Disassembly If.-Tilt the forward end of the propeller shaft up slightly to prevent loss of the cam 0-RING SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE II 10-37 THRUST BEARING (j) follower and very small parts behind the follower into the depths of the housing. Pull the shaft free of the housing. The reverse gear, a thrust bearing, and a thrust washer will come out with the shaft. SPECIAL WORDS Note the absence of any shim material behind the reverse gear. A backlash specification is given by the manufacturer. However, an adjustment is not possible by adding or removing shim material behind the reverse gear. 5-Slide the cam follower, and then the three very small balls from the forward end of the propeller shaft. 6-Insert a thin blade screwdriver or an awl under the first coil of the cross pin ring, and then rotate the propeller shaft to unwind the spring from the sliding clutch. TAKE CARE not to overstretch the spring. 7-Push the cross pin clear of the clutch "dog" and the propeller shaft. BE PREPARED to catch the guide block and spring when they "fly" free from the end of the propeller shaft. 8-Slide the clutch "dog" from the pro 3 BALLS CLUTCH "DOG" peller shaft. Shift Shaft Removal 9-Pull the shift rod boot up and over the shift rod. Pry the circlip off the rod OR remove the coupler and nylon spacer, depending on which items are used. Remove the two attaching bolts and lift the shift rod and shift rod retainer straight up and out of the lower unit. Remove and discard the 0-ring around the retainer. If the rod will not come free, leave this task until later, after Step 14 has been ac- CLUTCH "DOG" 10-38 LOWER UNIT complished, and there is more access to the shift cam at the lower end of the shift rod. Pinion Nut and Pinion Gear Removal 10-Select a box end wrench the same size as the pinion nut. This tool will be used to prevent the nut from turning as the driveshaft is rotated. Obtain Driveshaft Holding Tool, C-91-56775. Install the holding tool onto the end of the driveshaft. Now, with the box end wrench on the pinion gear nut, use an appropriate wrench and rotate the tool and driveshaft COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the pinion gear nut is free. Remove the nut and the pinion gear assembly. Set aside the old pinion gear nut. The manufacturer recommends the nut NOT be used a second time. Once the nut has been removed it loses its designed locking character is tics. The old pinion nut will be temporarily installed on the driveshaft for shimming and backlash calculations, and then removed and discarded. GOOD WORDS The driveshaft tapered roller bearing is pressed onto the pinion gear. If the bearing is no longer fit for further service, the bearing can be separated from the gear by performing Step 11. If the bearing is satisfactory, proceed directly to Step 12. 11-Obtain and position Universal Puller Plate, C-91-37241 between the pinion gear and the tapered roller bearing. Place the puller plate and gear, with the gear on the bottom, in an arbor press. Use a suitable mandrel and press the gear free of the bearing. The mandrel MUST contact the gear collar, but clear the bearing cage. BAD NEWS Once the bearing has been removed, it CANNOT be used a second time. The roller cage will be distorted during the removal process. Driveshaft Removal 12-Pull the driveshaft up and out of the lower unit housing. Remove and discard the sealing ring around the driveshaft. Inspect the condition of the wear sleeve at the lower end of the driveshaft. If the sleeve is worn or distorted it will allow water to enter the lower unit. To remove the wear sleeve, support the driveshaft in a universal bearing separa SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE II 10-39 BEARING WORDS The forward gear tapered roller bearing is pressed onto the short shaft of the gear assembly. A needle bearing is a snug fit in bearing is on hand, before attemptmg to remove the defective bearing. tor tool, resting over an open vice. Carefully, using a soft head mallet, tap the upper splined driveshaft end to force the wear sleeve up and free of the driveshaft. Forward Gear Needle Bearing Removal 13-After the pinion gear and driveshaft have been removed, the forward gear assembly and associated bearing can be lifted out of the housing. the inner bore of the gear assembly, as indicated in the exploded drawing on Page 10-43. The needle bearing supports the forward end of the propeller shaft. If the needle bearing is no longer fit for further service, it can be removed by tapping, with a blunt punch and hammer, around the bearing cage from the aft end --the gear end --of the bearing. This action will destroy the bearing cage. Therefore, be sure a replac..ment 10-40 LOWER UNIT HALLET 14-Reach into the housing and pull out the shift cam. If the attempt to remove the shift shaft failed in Step 9 of these disassembly procedures, the shaft will still be engaged with the cam. Attempt to "wiggle" the cam free of the shaft. An application of penetrating oil dribbled down the shaft and sprayed into the housing may help the cam come free. BEARING RACE WORDS If the forward gear tapered roller bearing or the pinion gear tapered roller bearing was removed, the race of the affected bearing MUST also be removed. The bearing and the race must be installed as a set. A wear pattern will have been worn in the race by the old bearing. Therefore, if the race is not replaced, the new bearing will be quickly worn by the old worn race. Pinion Gear Bearing Race Removal 1.5-The upper drive shaft bearing and oil sleeve need not be disturbed for this procedure. Obtain Bearing Race Tool C-911430Al. Insert the clip tool against the race with the spring loop in the propeller shaft cavity. 16-Place the driver down through the top of the lower unit to index into the clip tool. Tap the driver with a hammer or mallet until the race is driven free of the housing. SAVE the shim material from behind the race. The same amount of shim material will most likely be required during assembly. Forward Gear Bearing Race Removal 17-Remove the forward gear tapered roller bearing race using a slide hammer. SAVE any shim material from behind the race after the race is removed. The same amount of shim material will probably be used during assembly. Upper Driveshaft Roller Bearing Removal 18-Inspect the condition of the upper driveshaft roller bearing --not the tapered bearing. The bearing is a one piece unit. If defective, it can be removed using a slide hammer with puller jaw attachment. The roller bearing is pressed into a bearing sleeve, then the sleeve is pressed into the driveshaft bore. To remove the bearing and sleeve, hook the puller jaws first around the roller bearing and pull it from the sleeve. Then hook the jaws under the sleeve and pull the sleeve from the driveshaft. If necessary, remove the oil sleeve behind the bearing using the same tool. CLEANING AND INSPECTING ASSEMBLING CAM SHIFT TYPE ll The following procedures outline complete detailed instructions to install virtually all parts of the lower unit. If a particular part was found to be in sa tisfactory condition and was not removed, simply skip the steps involved and proceed with the required tasks to return the lower unit to efficient operation. CRITICAL WORDS Before beginning the installation work, count the number of teeth on the pinion gear and on the reverse gear. Not necessary to count the forward gear. Knowing the number of teeth on the pinion and reverse gear will permit obtaining the correct tool setup for the shimming procedure. Driveshaft and Wear Sleeve Installation 1-If the wear sleeve was removed in Step 12 of disassembling, obtain Wear Sleeve Installation Tool C-91-14310Al. Insert the new wear sleeve into the sleeve holder. Slide the bottom end of the driveshaft into the sleeve and holder. Slide the long collar portion of the installation tool over the top end of the driveshaft. DR IVESHAFT SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE II 10-41 Move the assembled tool and driveshaft to an arbor press. Position the base of the sleeve holder onto a suitable support which will allow the bottom end of the driveshaft to pass through. Press on the top surface of the long collar until the bottom surface of the collar seats against the top surface of the sleeve holder. Install a new sealing ring around the driveshaft, and then apply a light coating of Loctite Grade "A" around the ring. Set the driveshaft aside for later instal lation. Upper Driveshaft Bearing Installation 2-Apply a light coating of Quicksilver Needle Bearing Lubricant to the inner surface of the bearing sleeve. Identify the end of the new roller bearing with the embossed numbers. Identify the end of the bearing sleeve with a slight taper. Place the tapered end down on the arbor press support pia te. Insert the new roller bearing down into the larger end of the bearing sleeve with the numbered end facing UPWARD. Obtain a suitable mandrel and press the bearing in until it is flush with the sleeve. If the oil sleeve was removed from the dr iveshaft bore in Step 17 of disassembly, install the sleeve into the bore with the tab on the upper portion of the sleeve facingAFT. This sleeve MUST be in place BEFORE the upper driveshaft bearing is installed. To install the upper driveshaft bearing, obtain the following special tools: Two mandrels from Bearing Installation Tool Kit C-91-14309Al, a long threaded rod C-9131229, and a special nut C-11-24156. 10-42 LOWER UNIT 50HP & 60HP ONlY WATER TUBE GROMHET ..o WATER PUH.... I VATER 50HP & 60HP ONlY @-- ..BEAR ING NUT COVER · =----'c " ----- IMPEllER - IMPEllER DRIVE PIN-....,.ftl 0 IMPEllER . GASKET. SH IH MATER IAl l ® DR I VESHAFT SH IFT SHAFT ADAPTOR GASKET ---.. .. ( CAH & WAS HER VATER...'f TR I REVERSE lOCK OUTER PlATE..G (NON-POWER .. . •0 PUHP H/TilT f ONlY) ·0 BASE·GASKET..Oil SEAl.. SEAl WATER • 0 GASKET.. ..--SHIFT SHAFT RETA INER 50HP & 60HP ONlY NEEDlE 0 o 0-R ING 0-RING-..0 BEAR ING -. ROllER -9 ....CIRCl iP e:-COUPlER BEAR ING Oil .. @-SPACER SEAl-··•·(. DR I VESHAFT ..Oil SEAl SlEEVE .. BUSH ING ..O-R lNG e-.c iRCliP SHIFT SHAFT .. Fi ll ..---SCREW Exploded drawing of the driveshaft and water pump of a Cam-Shift Type II lower unit. Major parts are identified. The 50hp and 60hp models, since 1991, differ slightly in some components -these are shown in the three highlighted boxes. SERVICE CAM SHIFT TYPE II I 0-43 Exploded drawing of the propeller shaft and shifting mechanism of a Cam-Shift Type II. Major parts are identified. 10-44 LOWER UNIT Thread the nut onto the rod until the nut is about 2/3 of the way up. Hold the shorter of the two mandrels inside the lower unit under the driveshaft bore. Insert the threaded rod into the bore and thread the mandrel onto the rod until the mandrel is secure. Place the assembled roller bearing and sleeve over the threaded rod, into the cavity, and with the flush/numbered side facing UPWARD. Slide the other mandrel over the threaded rod with the shoulder side DOWN to fit inside the sleeve. Now, thread the nut on the rod down against the upper mandrel until all slack (clearance) is removed from the setup. With the proper size wrench on the top of the rod, prevent the rod from rotating, and at the same time rotate the nut CLOCKWISE down against the upper mandrel. As the nut is rotated the two mandrels will come closer together. This action will seat the bearing and sleeve assembly. When the shoulder of the upper mandrel makes contact with the upper face of the lower unit, the bearing/ sleeve assembly is correctly positioned in the driveshaft bore. Remove the special tools. Pinion Gear Bearing Race Installation 3-Using the same special tool setup employed in the previous step, the pmwn gear bearing race can be installed. Set the pinion gear bearing race onto the shorter mandrel with the taper TOWARD the mandrel. Place the same amount of shim material, removed in Step 16 of disassembly, on top of the race. GOOD WORDS If the shim material was misplaced or not recorded, begin with material totalling 0.025" (0.635mm). Remember, shim material must be measured INDIVIDUALLY and the thickness of each added to arrive at the total thickness. Never use a micrometer to measure the total thickness of several pieces of shim material. Such a procedure results in a very inaccurate measurement and will lead to incorrect shimming of the lower unit. Step 3 continues. Insert the threaded rod thru the shim material, the bearing race, and into the mandrel. Assemble the tool as described in the previous step. The upper driveshaft bearing has already been installed in Step 2. Install the pinion gear bearing race in the same manner. Forward Gear Tapered Roller Bearing Race lnstalla tion CRITICAL WORDS The bearing carrier is used as a pilot while installing the forward gear bearing race in the next step. Therefore, the bearing carrier must be temporarily assembled to include at least the propeller shaft roller bearing. Forward Bearing Race Installation 4-Place the same amount of shim material saved during disassembly, Step 17, into the lower unit. If the shim material was lost, or if a new lower unit is being used, begin with approximately 0.010" CARBURETOR JET SIZE I ELEVATION CHART "'C .. m zQ ENGINE MODEL YEAR SERIAL NO. JET ZERO TO 2500 TO 5000 TO ZERO TO 4000 TO ABOVE 4000 FT 7000 FT 7000 FT X .057 .055 .053 500 1966 500 1967 500 1966-74 5000 FT TYPE 2500 FT 7500 FT .061 2010162 & BELOW 2010163 & UP .063 .059 500 1975 4280269 & BELOW Main .065 .063 .063 .061 .061 .057 500 1975 4280270 & UP Main .065 .063 .061 .059 500 1975 4280270 & UP 4357640 & UP 4357640 & UP 500 1976-79 500 1976-79 500 1965-71 650 1972-74 Vent - .086 .084 .082 .080 .049 .090 .057 .055 .096 .053 .092 .051 .092 .059 .061 .072 .070 .074 4382056 & BELOW Main .074 .072 .070 650 1975 4382056 & BELOW VENT .086 .084 .082 650 1975 .068 .080 .080 .082 4304235 & UP Main .086 .084 .082 650XS 1975 4382057 & UP Main .088 .086 .084 650LS 1976 650LS 1976 4382057 & UP Vent .052 .050 .048 650S 1976 4382057 & UP Main .080 .0785 .076 .046 .074 650S 1976 4382057 & UP Vent .072 .070 .068 700 1977-79 700 1977-79 Main Vent .086 .066 .090 .084 .064 .088 .082 .062 .086 4571652 & UP 4571652 & UP 800 1969-74 800 1978-79 800 1978-79 850 1973 .066 .080 .062 .070 .074 .080 .072 Main Vent .072 .076 .070 .074 .068 .072 .078 4366801 & BELOW .084 .066 .076 850 1974 .074 Main .072 .076 .070 .086 .082 850 1975 850 1975 436680 1 & BELOW Vent .092 .090 .088 850 1976 4366802 to Main .088 .086 .084 4423111 850 1976 4366802 to Vent .080 .0785 .076 850 1976-77 44231 11 44231 12 & UP Main .090 .088 .086 850 1976-77 442311 2 & UP Vent .072 .070 .068 .074 .0&4 .066 TYPE CARBURETOR JET SIZE A-15 CARBURETOR JET SIZE I ELEVATION CHART ENGINE YEAR ZERO TO 2500 TO 5000 TO ABOVE MODEL 2500 FT 5000 FT 7500 FT 7500 FT 40 1990 & On Main .055 .053 .051 .049 4-cy1. Vent .096 .092 .092 .090 45 1986-89 Main .055 .053 .051 .049 4-cy1. Vent .096 .092 .092 .090 50 1980-85 Main .055 .053 .051 .049 4-cy1. Vent .096 .092 .092 .090 3-cy1. 1986-90 Main .086 .084 .082 .082 Vent .066 .064 .062 .060 50 1991 & On Main .052 .050 .048 .046 3-cyl. Vent .092 .090 .088 .086 60 1978-90 Main .086 .084-.082 .082 3-cy1. Vent .066 .064 .062 .060 60 1991 & On Main .070 .068 .066 .064 3-cy1. Vent .090 .089 .088 .086 3-cy1. 1980-83 Main .086 .084 .082 .082 Vent .066 .064 .062 .060 70 1987-89 Main .072 .070 .068 .066 3-cy1. Vent .094 .094 .094 .094 4-cy1. 1984-86 Main .090 .088 .086 .084 Vent .072 .070 .068 .066 75 1990 & On Main .072 .070 .068 .066 3-cy1. Vent .094 .094 .094 .094 80 1980-83 Main .090 .088 .086 .084 4-cy1. Vent .072 .070 .068 .066 80 1987-89 Main .072 .070 .068 .066 3-cy1. Vent .094 .094 .094 .094 80 1987 & On Main .064 .062 .060 .058 3-cy1. Vent .094 .094 .094 .094 90 1987 & On Main .072 .070 .068 .066 3-cy1. Vent .094 .094 .094 .094 100 1987 & On Main .054 .052 .050 .048 4-cy1. Vent none none none none 115 1989 & On Main .054 .052 .050 .048 4-cyl. Vent none none none none A-16 APPENDIX LOWER UNIT GEAR BACKLASH TABLE MODEL CYL. YEAR FORWARD GEAR REVERSE GEAR 40 4 1990 & On .003-.005 .003-.005 4 1986-89 .003-.005 .003-.005 500 4 1965-1979 .003-.005 .003-.005 50 4 1980-1985 .003-.005 .003-.005 50 3 1986-1 990 .003-.005 .003-.005 50 3 1991 & On .013-.019 Note 1 60 3 1984-1990 .003-.005 .003-.005 60 3 1991 & On .013-.019 Note 1 650 4 1965-1971 .006-.008 .008-.012 650 3 1972-1976 .003-.005 .003-.005 700 3 1977-1979 .006-.008 .008-.012 70 3 1980-1983 .003-.005 .003-.005 70 3 1987-89 .015-.022 Note 1 75 4 1984-1986 .008-.012 .040-.060 75 3 1990 & On .015-.022 Note 1 800 4 1969-1972 .006-.008 .008-.012 800 4 1978-1979 .014-.016 .040-.060 80 4 1980-1983 .014-.016 .040-.060 80 3 1987-89 .015-.022 Note 1 850 4 1973-1977 .014-.016 .040-.060 90 3 1987 & On .015-.022 Note 1 100 4 1987 & On .015-.022 Note 1 115 4 1989 & On .015-.022 Note 1 Note 1 Reverse gear not adjustable, but should be .040-.060. LOWER UNIT A-17 LOWER UNIT OIL CAPACITY AND GEAR CHART MODEL CYLINDER YEAR OIL CAP. NO. TEETH NO. TEETH GEAR OUNCES FORWARD PINION RATIO 40 4 1990 & On 12.5 26 13 2:1 4 1986-89 12.5 26 13 2:1 500 4 1965-79 9 23 14 1.64:1 4 1980-85 12.5 26 13 2:1 3 1986-90 12.5 23 14 1.64:1 * 50 3 1991 & On 12.5 23 14 1.64:1 60 3 1984-90 12.5 23 14 1.64:1 * 60 3 1991 & On 12.5 23 14 1.64:1 650 4 1965-71 9 28 14 2:1 650 3 1972-76 12.5 23 14 1.64:1 700 3 197779 12.5 23 14 1.64:1 3 1980-83 12.5 23 14 1.64:1 3 1987-89 22.5 30 13 2.3:1 4 1984-86 21 30 13 2.3:1 75 3 1990 & On 22.5 30 13 2.3:1 800 4 1969-72 21 30 13 2.3:1 800 4 1978-79 21 30 13 2.3:1 80 4 1980-83 21 30 13 2.3:1 80 3 198789 22.5 30 13 2.3:1 850 4 1973-77 21 30 13 2.3:1 90 3 1987 & On 22.5 13 2.3:1 100 115 4 4 1987 & On 1989 & On 22.5 22.5 29 29 14 14 2.07:1 2.07:1 * Indicates gear ratio change to 1.83:1 for following units: USA 5579017 and above Canada 7145938 and above Australia 8065065 and above Europe 9255131 and above A-18 APPENDIX PISTON AND CYLINDER SPECIFICATIONS ALL DIMENSION ARE IN INCHES MODEL CYLINDER YEAR SKIRT ABOVE CYLINDER 0.015 RINGS HONE OVERSIZE FINISH HONE 40 4 1990 & On 2.558 2.551 2.562 2.577 500 4 1986-89 2.558 2.551 2.562 2.577 4 1965-79 2.865 2.857 2.875 2.890 50 4 1980-85 2.558 2.551 2.562 2.577 50 3 1986-90 2.872 2.863 2.874 2.889 50 3 1991 & On 2.950 2.863 2.954 2.969 60 3 1984-90 2.872 2.874 2.889 60 3 1991 & On 2.950 2.954 2.969 650 4 1965-71 2.927 2.920 2.938 2.953 650 3 1972-76 2.872 2.863 2.874 2.889 700 3 1977-79 2.872 2.863 2.874 2.889 70 3 1980-83 2.872 2.863 2.874 2.889 70 3 1987-89 3.371 2.863 2.857 2.863 2.863 2.863 3.375 3.390 4 1984-86 2.872 2.874 2.889 3 1990 & On 3.371 3.375 3.390 800 4 1969-72 2.865 2.875 2.890 800 4 1978-79 2.872 2.874 2.889 80 4 1980-83 2.872 2.874 2.889 80 3 1987-89 3.371 3.390 850 4 1973-77 2.872 2.874 2.889 90 3 1987 & On 3.371 3.375 3.390 100 4 1987 & On 3.371 3.375 3.390 115 4 1989 & On 3.371 3.375 3.390 - (') ..t:+; .. (') (') ...... (001011. 0 Q ;::s White .... ...., I STATOR -ALTERNATOR ..... I 0 -..... .. «> NEUTRAL ...... ...... START .. cS ' INTER-LOCK STARTING SWITCH ....-·;::s...... SWITCH ..... .... 0 ..... ;!g ..('-I s::Mo ('-1 «> «> 3 Q. l 0 Gray 12·VOLT BATTERY ;::s .. .... ..... ;::;' «) «> "CQs:: 0 «> «> ..,«> Salmon ;:;' .., «> Q....... Red Q..-;.Q ('-1 .., 0' .... .a>O' Red li1::6 .. c6..... s:;: S .., ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR ()'.. ..3.. Q =r;- .... «>a> Q.. .-;. ,:_o -1Q . CONNECTOR 0 Yellow BASE z s '8 ... \Q I ,..;. I > ;::rl COWL FRAME NO TE: Engine Ground and Cowl Frame Ground GROUND (t)'t:J . .. Are Connected Electrically by a Jumper. ..$2 ;::s ...... CHOKE ALTERNATOR FLYWHEEL rn § X ..,,..;., SOLENOI D (t) ..... ...... ... .... g. .. (1) ""1 ,.., I :::..., ;::sI .............:. ;::sO,..;. .. Q.;::s ......0 (')""1 '""3(1) STARTER STARTING -"<:: SOLENOID MOTOR Q. 't:J .:_.(i) g. :::: COI L .., ..... .....(').. CQ;::s,..;.<"+Q, ..... ,..;.;::i0 . (1) .. ,..;.(1)'""3§ 3 .. '""3 .. Q. .... .>1. u Yellow ENGINE GROUND COWL RECTI FIER COWL I I FRAME FRAME GROUND GROUND REMOTE CHOKE KEY SWITCH'"Off'" D-E "Run" A-F "Start" A-F-B C')b' ..!::i; g,c:; Q ,..;.Q. ,..;. ..... ...... 0 ,..;... a6: ..)£ ..> c: "' -..s::: u 0 ,..;. CDO .. E (; , 0 c6';::s.-.. ... , . CQ.... · TACH. CONNECTOR Red Black ,..;.;::r ....,..;. ;::s0 (1);::s ENGINE ,..;. ...... EXTERNAL HARNESS 1 2-VOLT (1) (1).. c6 V lEW OF TERMINALS "C" -Gray (t)Q. ....ca .... ;::s.. "D" -Black Terminal "A" -Red "E" -Orange"B" -Yellow "F' -White THROUGH BACK OF PLUG BATTERY "G" -Brown WIRE IDENTIFICATION A-2 1 z]' -u a&ueJQ uaaJ :X: ux !:: o ..al 1-c( Cll c1-c enS w1-Cll 0 0 :!:] .. w Cll a: > _, Cll z en 0 : -0 .,_ e a. Cll 05 .. ... .. 0 ftl Cll .::... ... .. "S-5·= ..= " "' .... a"' I..c 3: en .5 Wire identification --Type II ignition system --Thunderbolt distributor lightening energizer pointless (ignition driver) manual start. (See Tune-up Specifications for ignition type used on the powerhead being serviced.) (\)CIJ(\)..... '"1(\) ...g... (') '"1 .... (\) -· '"1 .:..., (I) Mo.. '"1 Q (\) MoM>;:s _ c:; · CllQ (\) Mo (\) s §.. ;:s · "0!: ...."<: I "0Cll "0(\) ;::::: (\) """'i (') (')sc§· .... Q Mo .... Mo .... o 0 ;:s ..CIJ -..... '"1 oc-+o (\) .... C§l3 ·..I .... Mo- Mo§§ (\)..(\) Q.. 0''"1 !:g. C/JM>(\)Q.. 0 c;; · ::s!:t Mo .. ;:J"Mo(\) '"1 0 '8n (\)3--g .... Q..Q c-+o;:s ..... (\) 0' s· tQI 1 ALTERNATOR FLYWHEEL tN COWL FRAME GROUND COWL FRAME IT1 .. CHOKE S2X z SOLENOID Black SWITCH BOX ASS EMBLY COIL ASSEMBLY CONTROL GROUND "Run" A-F "Start" A-F-B NEUTRAL START INTER-LOCK SWITCH Red i ENGINE COWL FRAME HARNESS THROUGH BACK OF PLUG Terminal "A" -Red "E" -Salmon "B" -Yellow "F" -White "C" -Gray "G" -Brown "D" -Black WIRE ll:l::NTIFICATION A-23 .. 0 z >_j(,) "" z >_j(,) N 0 z >_j(,) 0... z_jt 0.. O:x: t-(/) u..J i= t--3:(/) 0 w ¥0 oz :X:W uc5 a:t­ CI: wW z t-z "0 -" "' (J a: .. ii5 wz a: 1::>. ..... c:r.... ......:=: ;::l;::J ;::J0 ALTE RNATOR STATOR TRIGGER PLATE ;::r ('t) IT1 . (\) Cf.) (\), ""S ... I II CYL. NO. 1 MERCURYSWITCH Black S2z LEAD on BACK X SWITCH BOX of COl L MUST BE CY L. NO. 2 GROUNDED (Typical 4 Places) "i "ia:.. a:.. CYL. NO. 3 =ai =ai > > ('t) ..... ('t) -("+C) ..... C) -·CQ , ;::1 --• Green-Red ("+Cf.IM; ..... Q j CYL. NO. 4 White RECTI FIER ;:; ;:::.0 .. ..Black 1 (Finish) Violet • Cf.) 3 (Start) Brown-.. (Finish) White-Black t/)t"+(\) .. 3 § Green-Black .l ..l IGNITION COIL ll l i l l l l I I t Q.§ R ed --i o2" BATTERY Black -... ("+... ...... c:;·-... Q t"+'<: ..o (\);::r -... Sio .... 1::::1 <"+"0;:::r' {\) {\) "'1 M-"0 ;::,' «)«>"8.. .... «);':S ;::;' «>-s a> -s ALTERNATOR STATOR m.. z Q. «> ;:s MERCURY SWITCH Orange.. Q 1:4 I1 I O'C,., «) - · 0 0Q LEAD on BACK SIDE of ;:s "< COIL MUST BE GROUNDED C""'ooo ... CQen ;:s -· ;:s o «>-s Q.«) <: -s I II c:; · .. I "< '""3 «> RECTIFIER .:......Q. ,..... "' «> «> STARTER MOTOR 0.. ..::: 0 ...... =ai >S::+<§ g >< en -s ..... • ;:s SWITCH rr;-Gre. Black e .-..en C/)'< «>«> c-t-en BOX . _ CY L. . --NO. 1 Black REMOTE '""3§ «> 3 «) I I II · IGNITION COIL (3 Required) CHOKE SWITCH ;- f;::! '""3 "0 ;::;' .l::i; C'j.Q. - o o STARTER SOLENOID .ll: :l: ..0 CHOKE ...... ns:-G) NEUTRAL START INTERLOCK SWITCH Orange a.. -.... ;:Red -s 0 «> ......«> ·cg o-n m..l ;:+: o !::= ENGINE HARNESS ·EXTERNAL WIRING HARNESS TACHOMETER -g ;:s ... . CONNECTOR "0 M-«M­;:s KEY SWITCH ...... «> .. Position 1 ("Off") -E-D f;::! en en 1 Position 2 ("Run") -A-F «) Ro0 I Position 3 ("Run- Start") -A-F-B ;:s::!: 0 WIRE IOCNTIFICA TION A-27 STATOR STARTER SOLENO IO FUSE HOLDER ENR I CHENER TERMI NAL BLOCK . LOW OIL WARN ING MODULE TEMPERATURE SENSOR Wire identification for 3-Cylinder Powerheads, Models 70hp, 75hp, BOhp and 90hp, since 1987. A-28 APPENDIX )l:l1f18·3.11HM3J.IHM131011\ 5(,) 5(,) I: ', "" --manual start. \0.. A-30 APPENDIX )l:l...l8·HJHM HIHM i31011\ 0u 0z....l0u .. g-I0z >t., Serial Numbers U.S.A. Canada Auslralia Europe SAFETY STOP SWITCH(NOT PRESENT ON ALL MODELS) ......'""0"1 .q"'G'.. STOP SWITCH /... 7...... ,/ .... ...... ,,.., / ............;>/ / .-:,. ,.,,.., --, ,..,.,. ..../.I ' ,.-,.....,..,...... I', , II I! !: I :'-, I I'-.t I I' , ' -...... I ........... "'-.,' \' , I\ II I'I \I 'II II I1 I1 II II I1 II II ,'I : Above 5531 629 Above 71 43687 Above 8063984 Above 9248005 REMOTE CONTROL I II ,II ,­,_,', ; -.... Wire identification --Type V ignition system --Model 50 hp to 1985, Model 45 hp since 1986, Model 40hp since 1990, --man ual start. l.J > N ..m CHOKESOLENOID a:<( > "'a: .. 0 ...a: 0 q.. a: 0 "' COIL NO. 3 MERCURY SWITCH I I .." <(z a:0 BATTERY 0 0 "' .. .. > :5 .. WIRINGHARNESS =Fl Serial Numbers Q -f .. Australia Europe U.S.A. Canada Below 8065066 Below 9255132 Below 5579017 Below 7145938 Wire identification --Type V ignition system --70hp to 1983, 60hp 1984-1990 ..> and 50hp 1986-1990 --3-cylinder. (Check serial numbers listed.) w ....... .... ... -.. :z: 0.. > .. ...>I" u ... .. .. ...>I" u:3 ., > ...a:" 0 ...a: " u:3"' ;!: 0 .. .. ...> CHOKE SOLENOID > .j::ow "'0 .. m TO CYLINDER NO. 2 U.S.A. Above 5579016 Serial Numbers Canada Australia Europe Above 71 45937 Above 8065065 Above 9255131 :j0 .. z Wire identification --Type V ignition system --70 hp to 1983, Model 60 1986-1990, and Model 50 1984-1990 --3-cylinder. (Check serial numbers listed.) Vt..> ;= g...1...> I"' u.....1CD > 8.. a:a: I" ;=0 0... ...1"'a: ...1 u... ..> ...1CD BATTERY _,.3 1 4 8 5 , 6 7 ....:!i A-36 APPENDIX ..··..o..• MERCURY SWITCH CHOKESOLENOID Wire identification --Type V ignition system --80 hp to 1980 and 75 hp since 1984, both models with 7-point connector plug. WIRE IDENTFICA TION A-37 MEACU"Y SWITCH 6..54 37 2 8 1 Wire identification --Type V ignition system --80 hp since 1980 and 75 hp since 1984, both models with 8-point connector plug. A-38 APPENDIX -' w>3al STATOR ..RY TILT STOP SWI TCH STARTER SOLENO ID WI RING HARNESS CONNECTOR Wire identification for 4-cylinder powerheads, Models 100hp and 110hp, since 1987. WIRE IDENTIFICATION A-39 BLACK IGNITION COIL CYL #1 IGNITION COIL CYL #2 BLACK IGNITION COIL CYL #3 STATOR TRIGGER "' --Lead changes color. BLACK BLACK BATIERY 20 AMP FUSE HOLDER BLACKGREY BLACK/YELLOW CRANKING MOTOR TEMPERATURE SWITCH WIRING HARNESS CONNECTOR PURPLE LOW OIL WARNING ENRICHMENT MODULE VALVE BLACK Wire identification for 3-cylinder powerheads, Models 50hp and 60hp, since 1991. A-40 APPENDIX TRIM PUMP TRIM LIMIT SWITCH (Located in Starboard Trim Cylinder Mounting Bracket) TRIM SOLENOID POWER TRIM CONTROL BATTERY Wire identification --Type "A" power trim/tilt system (two trim/tilt cylinders) with older style single solenoid. WIRE IDENTIFICATION A-41 TRIM LIMIT SWITCH (Located in Starboard Trim Cylinder Mounting Bracket) TRIM PUMP TRIM SOLENOID BATTERY -r r+ c( 0..J wco a: zwwa: Wire identification -Type "A" power trim/tilt system (two trim/tilt cylinders) with the new style single solenoid. A-42 APPENDIX BATTERY "DOWN" SOLENOID TR IM PUMP "UP" SOLENOID a: z w (!) Wire identification --Type "A" power trim/tilt system (two trim/tilt cylinders) with dual solenoids. WIRE UENTIFICA TION a: 9 wo 1-z lr w ....J <1}0 w0 z a: OtZO w::.; A-43 BlUE·WHITE 2 I_____ ___ J Wire identification --Type "B" power trim/tilt system (two trim cylinders and one tilt cylinder). APPENDIX "' -' 0 :r-' 0 a: <.> I/ :r <.> .... ...... .. ... z .... a: <,.>-c.> ""'-' l «)a.. .... .... .... • «) Wiring Diagram -For boats equipped with Quicksilver s: .. Commander Series side mount remote control. .... · ....a ;::so· (') 0 3 3Q «)a 1: C'n.... Q.«) §3 .... (') ;::s0 .... Wiring Diagram -For boats equipped with Quicksilver Ignition/Choke and Main Harness Assembly. C'n .. .. = Brown/White (Provided with Ignition Switch Harness) .... ....§" IGNITION/CHOKE (')....·.. Q .... 0 '2 .... Black Brown/White Black zg Rubber Sleeve >< Engine Ground Connect Wires Together with Screw and Hex Nut; Apply Liquid Neoprene to Connection :cs: .. .... 3: c e co E{([] .. To Engine Brown/White Black Rubber Sleeve (Slide over "T Engine Ground I Connect Wires Together with Screw and Hex Nut; Apply Liquid Neoprene to Connec tion Brown/White Q.§ To Engine .... ....§" WIRE IDENTIFICATION A-47 a-Extension Harness (A-84-76954A10, 15, 20 and 40) (for 65 HP and for 70 HP Models, Adaptor Harness A-84-75291A2 is Required) b -X= Length of Harness in Feet c -Battery Leads d -4-Pin Connector (Control to Harness) e -3-Pin Connector (Control to Trailer/Choke Panel) f-5-Pin Connector (Trailer/Choke Panel to Harness) g-4-Pin Connector (Harness to Tachometer) (if Tachometer Is Not Used, Tape Back and Insulate Connector) h -White Wire (Control to Trailer/Choke Panel) (Connect White Wire to Terminal on Back Side of Panel That Already Has a White Wire Connected to It) i-Spring-Type Clamp [13/16" (20.6mm)] j-Spring-Type Clamp [3/4" (19.1mm)] ! k -Trailer/Choke Panel I-Tachometer (Optional) m -Locking Steering Mount (A-66786A3) n -Ignition Switch Panel (A-5421 1 A2) o -Black to Black (Secure with Screw and Nut and Insulate with Rubber Sleeve) p-Orange to Orange (Secure with Screw and Nut and Insulate with Rubber Sleeve) q-White to White (Secure with Screw and Nut and Insulate with Rubber Sleeve) r-Yellow to Yellow (Secure with Screw and Nut and Insulate with Rubber Sleeve) s-Red to Red/White (Secure with Screw and Nut and Insulate with Rubber Sleeve) Wiring diagram for single engine console --Models 50 hp, 60 hp, and 70 hp.